[Clark, August 1, 1806]
Sunday 1st of August 1806.
We Set out early as usial the wind was high and ahead which caused the
water to be a little rough and delayed us very much aded to this we had
Showers of rain repeetedly all day at the intermition of only a fiew
minits between them. My Situation a very disagreeable one. in an open
Canoe wet and without a possibility of keeping my Self dry. the Country
through which we passed is in every respect like that through which I
passed yesterday. The brooks have all Some water in them from the rains
which has fallen. this water is excessively muddy. Several of those
brooks have Some trees on their borders as far as I can See up them. I
observe Some low pine an cedar on the Sides of the rugid hills on the
Stard. Side, and Some ash timber in the high bottoms. the river has
more Sand bars today than usial, and more Soft mud. the current less
rapid. at 2 P.M. I was obliged to land to let the Buffalow Cross over.
not withstanding an island of half a mile in width over which this
gangue of Buffalow had to pass and the Chanel of the river on each Side
nearly 1/4 of a mile in width, this gangue of Buffalow was entirely
across and as thick as they could Swim. the Chanel on the Side of the
island the went into the river was crouded with those animals for 1/2
an hour. the other Side of the island for more than 3/4 of an hour. I
took 4 of the men and killed 4 fat Cows for their fat and what portion
of their flesh the Small Canoes Could Carry that which we had killed a
few days ago being nearly Spoiled from the wet weather. encamped on an
Island Close to the Lard Shore two gangues of Buffalow Crossed a little
below us, as noumerous as the first.
[Clark, August 2, 1806]
Monday August 2nd 1806.
Musquetors very troublesom this morning I Set out early river wide and
very much divided by islands and Sand and Mud bars. the bottoms more
extencive and contain more timber Such as Cotton wood ash willow &c.
The Country on the N W. Side rises to a low plain and extends leavel
for great extent. Some high rugid hills in the forepart of this day on
the S E. Side on which I saw the big horns but could not get near them.
Saw emence numbers of Elk Buffalow and wolves to day. the wolves do
catch the elk. I saw 2 wolves in pursute of doe Elk which I beleive
they Cought they very near her when She entered a Small wood in which I
expect they cought her as She did not pass out of the small wood during
my remaining in view of it which was 15 or 20 minits &c. passed the
enterance of Several brooks on each Side, a Small river 30 yds wide
with Steep banks on the Stard. Side, which I call Ibex River the river
in this days decent is less rapid crouded with Islds and muddy bars and
is generally about one mile in wedth. as the islands and bars
frequently hide the enterance of Brooks &c. from me as I pass'd maney
of them I have not noticed. about 8 A. M this morning a Bear of the
large vicious Species being on a Sand bar raised himself up on his hind
feet and looked at us as we passed down near the middle of the river.
he plunged into the water and Swam towards us, either from a
disposition to attack't or from the Cent of the meat which was in the
Canoes. we Shot him with three balls and he returned to Shore badly
wounded. in the evening I saw a very large Bear take the water above
us. I ordered the boat to land on the opposit Side with a view to
attack't him when he Came within Shot of the Shore. when the bear was
in a fiew paces of the Shore I Shot it in the head. the men hauled her
on Shore and proved to be an old Shee which was so old that her tuskes
had worn Smooth, and Much the largest feemale bear I ever Saw. after
taking off her Skin, I proceeded on and encampd a little above the
enterance of Jo. Feilds Creek on Stard. Side in a high bottom Covered
with low Ash and elm. the Musquetors excessively troublesom.
I have noticed a great preportion Buck Elks on this lower part of the
river, and but very few above. those above which are emencely noumerous
are feemales Generally. Shields killed a Deer this morning dureing the
time we were at Brackfast. we were very near being detained by the
Buffalow today which were Crossing the river we got through the line
between 2 gangues.
[Clark, August 3, 1806]
Tueday August 3rd,1806.
last night the Musquetors was so troublesom that no one of the party
Slept half the night. for my part I did not Sleep one hour. those
tormenting insects found their way into My beare and tormented me the
whole night. they are not less noumerous or troublesom this morn-ing.
at 2 miles passed the enterance of Jo. Field's Creek 35 yds wide
imediately above a high bluff which is falling into the river very
fast. on the Side of this bluff I saw Some of the Mountain Bighorn
animals. I assended the hill below the Bluff. the Musquetors were So
noumerous that I could not Shute with any Certainty and therefore Soon
returned to the Canoes. I had not proceeded far before I saw a large
gangue of ewes & yearlins & fawns or lambs of the bighorn, and at a
distance alone I saw a ram. landed and Sent Labeech to kill the ram,
which he did kill and brought him on board. this ram is not near as
large as maney I have Seen. however he is Sufficiently large for a
Sample I directed Bratten to Skin him with his head horns & feet to the
Skin and Save all the bone. I have now the Skin & bone of a Ram a Ewe &
a yearlin ram of those big Horn animals. at 8. A.M. I arived at the
junction of the Rochejhone with the Missouri, and formed my Camp
imediately in the point between the two river at which place the party
had all encamped the 26th of April-1805. at landing I observed Several
Elk feeding on the young willows in the point among which was a large
Buck Elk which I shot & had his flesh dryed in the Sun for a Store down
the river. had the Canoes unloaded and every article exposed to dry &
Sun. Maney of our things were wet, and nearly all the Store of meat
which had been killed above Spoiled. I ordered it to be thrown into the
river. Several Skins are also Spoiled which is a loss, as they are our
principal dependance for Clothes to last us to our homes &c.
The distance from the Rocky Mountains at which place I struck the River
Rochejhone to its enterance into the Missouri 837 Miles 636 Miles of
this distance I decended in 2 Small Canoes lashed together in which I
had the following Persons. John Shields, George Gibson, William
Bratten, W. Labeech, Toust. Shabono his wife & child & my man York. The
Rochejhone or Yellow Stone river is large and navagable with but fiew
obstructions quite into the rocky mountains. and probably near it's
source. The Country through which it passes from those Mounts. to its
junction is Generaly fertile rich open plains the upper portion of
which is roleing and the high hills and hill Sides are partially
covered with pine and Stoney. The middle portion or from the enterance
of Clarks Fork as low as the Buffalow Shoals the high lands Contain
Some Scattering pine on the Lard. Side. on the Stard. or S. E. Side is
Some hills thickly Supplied with pine. The lower portion of the river
but fiew pines are to be Seen the Country opens into extencive plains
river widens and Contains more islands and bars; of corse gravel sand
and Mud. The Current of this river may be estimated at 4 Miles and 1/2
pr. hour from the Rocky Mts. as low as Clarks Fork, at 31/2 Miles pr.
hour from thence as low as the Bighorn, at 3--Miles pr. hour from
thence as low as the Tongue river, at 23/4 Miles pr. hour from thence
as low as Wolf rapid and at 21/2 miles pr. hour from thence to its
enterance into the Missouri
The Colour of the Water differs from that of the Missouri it being of a
yellowish brown, whilst that of the Missouri is of a deep drab Colour
containing a greater portion of mud than the Rochejhone. This
delighfull river from indian information has it's extreem sources with
the North river in the Rocky mountains on the confines of New Mexico.
it also most probably has it's westerly sources connected with the
Multnomah and those the main Southerly branch of Lewis's river while
it's Easterly branches head with those of Clark's R. the bighorn and
River Platte and may be said to water the middle portion of the Rocky
Mountains from N W to S. E. for several hundred miles. the indians
inform us, that a good road passes up this river to it's extreem source
from whence it is buta short distance to the Spanish settlements. there
is also a considerable fall on this river within the mountains but at
what distance from it's source we never could learn like all other
branches of the Missouri which penetrate the Rocky Mountains all that
portion of it lying within those mountains abound in fine beaver and
Otter, it's streams also which issuing from the rocky mountain and
discharging themselves above Clark's fork inclusive also furnish an
abundance of beaver and Otter and possess considerable portions of
small timber in their values. to an establishment on this river at
clarks Fork the Shoshones both within and West of the Rocky Mountains
would willingly resort for the purposes of trade as they would in a
great measure be relived from the fear of being attacked by their
enimies the blackfoot Indians and Minnetares of fort de Prarie, which
would most probably happen were they to visit any establishment which
could be conveniently formed on the Missouri. I have no doubt but the
same regard to personal safety would also induce many numerous nations
inhabiting the Columbia and Lewis's river West of the mountains to
visit this establishment in preference to that at the entrance of
Maria's river, particularly during the first years of those Western
establishments. the Crow Indians, Paunch Indians Castahanah's and
others East of the mountains and south of this place would also visit
this establishment; it may therefore be looked to as one of the most
important establishments of the western fur trade. at the entrance of
Clark's fork there is a sufficiency of timber to support an
establishment, an advantage that no position possesses from thence to
the Rocky Mountains. The banks of the yellowstone river a bold not very
high yet are not subject to be overflown, except for a few miles
immediately below where the river issues from the mountain. the bed of
this river is almost entirely composed of loose pebble, nor is it's bed
interrupted by chains of rock except in one place and that even
furnishes no considerable obstruction to it's navigation. as you decend
with the river from the mountain the pebble becomes smaller and the
quantity of mud increased untill you reah Tongue river where the pebble
ceases and the sand then increases and predominates near it's mouth.
This river can be navigated to greater advantage in perogues than any
other craft yet it possesses suficient debth of water for battauxs even
to the mountains; nor is there any of those moving sand bars so
formidable to the navigation of many parts of the Missouri. The Bighorn
R and Clark's fork may be navigated a considerable distance in perogues
and canoes. Tongue river is also navigable for canoes a considerable
distance.
[Clark, August 4, 1806]
Wednesday 4th August 1806
Musquetors excessively troublesom So much So that the men complained
that they could not work at their Skins for those troublesom insects.
and I find it entirely impossible to hunt in the bottoms, those insects
being So noumerous and tormenting as to render it imposseable for a man
to continue in the timbered lands and our best retreat from those
insects is on the Sand bars in the river and even those Situations are
only clear of them when the Wind Should happen to blow which it did to
day for a fiew hours in the middle of the day. the evenings nights and
mornings they are almost indureable perticelarly by the party with me
who have no Bears to keep them off at night, and nothing to Screen them
but their blankets which are worn and have maney holes. The torments of
those Missquetors and the want of a Sufficety of Buffalow meat to dry,
those animals not to be found in this neighbourhood induce me to
deturmine to proceed on to a more eliagiable Spot on the Missouri below
at which place the Musquetors will be less troublesom and Buffalow more
plenty. (I will here obseve that Elk is Abundant but their flesh & fat
is hard to dry in the Sun, and when dry is much easirSpoiled than
either the Buffalow or Deer) I ordered the Canoes to be reloaded with
our baggage & dryed meat which had been Saved on the Rochejhone
together with the Elk killed at this place. wrote a note to Capt Lewis
informing him of my intentions and tied it to a pole which I had Stuck
up in the point. At 5 P. M Set out and proceeded on down to the 2d
point which appeared to be an eligable Situation for my purpose killed
a porcupine on this point the Musquetors were So abundant that we were
tormented much worst than at the point. The Child of Shabono has been
So much bitten by the Musquetor that his face is much puffed up &
Swelled. I encamped on this extensive Sand bar which is on the N W.
Side.
[Clark, August 5, 1806]
Thursday 5th August 1806.
The Musquetors was So troublesom to the men last night that they Slept
but very little. indeed they were excessive troublesom to me. my
Musquetor Bear has a number of Small holes worn through they pass in. I
Set out at an early hour intending to proceed to Some other Situation.
I had not proceded on far before I Saw a ram of the big horn Animal
near the top of a Lard. Bluff I assended the hill with a view to kill
the ram. the Misquetors was So noumerous that I could not keep them off
my gun long enough to take Sight and by thair means missed. at 10 a.m.
the wind rose with a gentle breeze from the N. W. which in Some measure
thinned the Misquetors. I landed on a Sand bar from the South Point
intending to form a Camp at this place and Continue untill Capt Lewis
Should arive. and killed two Buck Elks and a Deer the best of their
flesh & fat I had Saved. had all the dryed meat & fat put out to Sun
and continued at this place untill late in the evening finding that
there were no buffalow or fresh Sign I deturmined to proceed on
accordingly Set out at 4 P. M and proceeded on but a fiew miles eeir I
saw a Bear of the white Species walking on a Sand bear. I with one man
went on the Sand bear and killed the Bear which proved to be a feemale
very large and fat. much the fattest animale we have killed on the rout
as this bear had got into the river before we killed her I had her toed
across to the South Side under a high Bluff where formed a Camp, had
the bear Skined and fleaced. our Situation was exposed to a light
breeze of wind which continued all the forepart of the night from the S
W. and blew away the misquetors.
[Clark, August 6, 1806]
Friday 6th August 1806
I rose very wet. about 11 P M last night the wind become very hard for
a fiew minits Suckceeded by Sharp lightning and hard Claps of Thunder
and rained for about 2 hours very hard after which it continued Cloudy
the balance of the night. as we were about Setting out a female Big
horn animal came on the bluff imediately above us and looked down. I
derected Labeech to Shoot it which he did, after Skinning this animal
we Set out and proceeded on to a Sand bar on the S W. Side below the
enterance of White earth river where I landed and had the meat Skins
and bedding all put out to dry. wind hard from the N W. I halted on the
N W. Side of this river in the bend above the white earth river, where
I saw where the Indians had been digging a root which they eate and use
in Seup, not more than 7 or 8 days past. This morning a very large Bear
of white Specis, discovered us floating in the water and takeing us, as
I prosume to be Buffalow imediately plunged into the river and prosued
us. I directed the men to be Still. this animal Came within about 40
yards of us, and tacked about. we all fired into him without killing
him, and the wind So high that we could not pursue him, by which means
he made his escape to the Shore badly wounded. I have observed buffalow
floating down which I suppose must have been drounded in Crossing
above. more or less of those animals drown or mire in passing this
river. I observed Several floating buffalow on the R. Rochejhone
imediately below where large gangues had Crossed. The wind blew hard
all the after part of the day. I derected the men to dress their Skins
except one which I took with me and walkd. through the bottom to the
foot of the hills I killed five deer and the man with me killed 2. four
others were killed in the Course of the day by the party only 2 of
those deer were fat owing as I suppose to the Musquetors which are So
noumerous and troublesom to them that they Cannot feed except under the
torments of millions of those Musquetors.
[Clark, August 7, 1806]
Saturday 7th August 1806
Some hard rain this morning after daylight which wet us all. I formed a
Sort of Camped and delayed untill 11 a.m. when it Stoped raining for a
short time. I directed every thing put on board and proceeded on down.
the rain Continued at intervales all day tho not hard in the evenig Saw
a Bear on the bank but Could not get a Shoot at it. at 6 P M I landed
on a Sand bar on the South Side and Campd. Soon after we landed the
wind blew very hard for about 2 hours, when it lulled a little. the air
was exceedingly Clear and Cold and not a misquetor to be Seen, which is
a joyfull circumstance to the Party.
[Clark, August 8, 1806]
Sunday 8th August 1806
A cool windey morning I derected Shields and Gibson to turn out and
hunt this morning. at 8 A.M. Sergt. N. Pryor Shannon, hall & Windsor
Came down the river in two Canoes made of Buffalow Skins. Sergt. Pryor
informed me that the Second night after he parted with me on the river
Rochejhone he arived about 4 P M on the banks of a large Creek which
contained no running water. he halted to let the horses graze dureing
which time a heavy Shower of rain raised the Creek so high that Several
horses which had Stragled across the Chanel of this Creek was obliged
to Swim back. here he deturmined to Continue all night it being in good
food for the horses. In the morning he could See no horses. in lookg
about their Camp they discovered Several tracks within 100 paces of
their Camp, which they pursued found where they had Caught and drove
off all the horses. they prosued on five miles the Indians there
divided into two parties. they Continued in pursute of the largest
party five miles further finding that there was not the Smallest Chance
of overtakeing them, they returned to their Camp and packed up their
baggage on their backs and Steared a N. E. course to the River
Rochejhone which they Struck at pompys Tower, there they killed a
Buffalow Bull and made a Canoe in the form and shape of the mandans &
Ricares (the form of a bason) and made in the following manner. Viz: 2
Sticks of 11/4 inch diameter is tied together So as to form a round
hoop of the Size you wish the canoe, or as large as the Skin will allow
to cover, two of those hoops are made one for the top or brim and the
for the bottom the deabth you wish the Canoe, then Sticks of the Same
Size are Crossed at right angles and fastened with a throng to each
hoop and also where each Stick Crosses each other. then the Skin when
green is drawn tight over this fraim and fastened with throngs to the
brim or outer hoop So as to form a perfect bason. one of those Canoes
will carry 6 or 8 Men and their loads. Those two Canoes are nearly the
Same Size 7 feet 3 inches diamieter & 16 inchs deep 15 ribs or Cross
Sticks in each. Sergt. Pryor informs me that the Cause of his building
two Canoes was for fear of ones meating with Some accedent in passing
down the rochejhone a river entirely unknown to either of them by which
means they might loose their guns and amunition and be left entirely
destitute of the means of precureing food. he informed me that they
passed through the worst parts of the rapids & Shoals in the river
without takeing a drop of water, and waves raised from the hardest
winds dose not effect them. on the night of the 26th ulto. the night
after the horses had been stolen a Wolf bit Sergt. Pryor through his
hand when asleep, and this animal was So vicious as to make an attempt
to Seize Windsor, when Shannon fortunately Shot him. Sergt. Pryers
hand has nearly recovered. The Country through which St. Pryor Passed
after he parted with me is a broken open Country. he passed one Small
river which I have Called Pryors river which rises in a Mtn. to the
South of Pompys tower. The note I left on a pole at the Mouth of the
River Rochejhone Sergt. Pryor concluding that Capt. Lewis had passed
took the note and brought it with him. Capt. Lewis I expect will be
certain of my passing by the Sign which I have made and the encampment
imediately in the point. Sergt. Pryor bing anxious to overtake me Set
out Some time before day this morning and forgot his Saddlebags which
contains his papers &c. I Sent Bratten back with him in Serch of them.
I also Sent Shannon over to hunt the bottom on the opposit Side.
Shields and Gibson returned at 10 A.M. with the Skins and part of the
flesh of three deer which they had killed in this bottom. I derected
them to take one of the Skin Canoes and proceed down to the next bottom
and untill my arival which will be this evening if Sergt. Pryor returns
in time. My object is to precure as many Skins as possible for the
purpose of purchaseing Corn and Beans of the Mandans. as we have now no
article of Merchindize nor horses to purchase with, our only resort is S
kins which those people were very fond the winter we were Stationed
near them. after dark Sergt. Pryor returned with his Saddlebeggs &c.
they were much further up than he expected.
[Clark, August 9, 1806]
Monday 9th August 1806
a heavy dew this morning. loaded the Canoes and proceeded on down about
6 miles and landed at the Camp of the 2 hunters Shields and Gibson
whome I had Sent down to hunt last evening, they had killed five deer
two of which were in good order which they brought in. here I took
brackfast and proceeded on a fiew miles and I walked on Shore across a
point of near 10 miles in extent in this bottom which was mostly open I
saw Some fiew deer and Elk. I killed 3 of the deer which were Meagure
the Elk appeared fat. I did not kill any of them as the distance to the
river was too great for the men to Carry the meat at the lower part of
this bottom a large Creek of runnig water 25 yds wide falls in which
meanders through an open roleing plain of great extent. in the low
bottoms of this Creek I observed Some timber Such as Cottonwood, ash &
Elm. on my arival at the lower part of the bottom found that the canoes
had been in waiting for me nearly two hours. The Squar brought me a
large and well flavoured Goose berry of a rich Crimsin Colour, and deep
purple berry of the large Cherry of the Current Speces which is common
on this river as low as the Mandans, the engagees Call it the Indian
Current. I landed opposit to a high plain on the S. E. Side late in the
evening and walked in a Grove of timber where I met with an Elk which I
killed. this Elk was the largest Buck I ever Saw and the fattest animal
which have been killed on the rout. I had the flesh and fat of this Elk
brought to Camp and cut thin ready to dry. the hunters killed nothing
this evening.
[Clark, August 10, 1806]
Tuesday 10th August 1806
had the flesh of the elk hung on poles to dry, and Sent out the the
hunters. wind blew hard from the East all day. in the after part of the
day it was cloudy & a fiew drops of rain. I finished a Copy of my
Sketches of the River Rochejhone. Shields killed a black tail deer & an
antilope. the other hunters killed nothing. deer are very Scerce on
this part of the river. I found a Species of Cherry in the bottom the
Srub or bush which are differant from any which I have ever Seen and
not very abundant even in this Small tract of country to which it Seems
to be confined. the Stem is compound erect and subdivided or branching
without any regular order. it rises to the hight of 8 or 10 feet Seldom
putting out more than one Stem from the Same root not growing in cops
as the Choke Cherry does. the bark is Smooth and of a dark brown
colour. the leaf is petialate, oval accutely pointed at it's apex, from
1 and a 1/4 to one and a 1/2 inch in length and from a half to 3/4 of
an inch in wedth, finely or manutely Serrate, pale green and free from
bubessance. The fruit is a globular berry about the Size of a buck Shot
of a fine Scarlet red; like the cherries cultivated in the U. States
each is supported by a Seperate Celindric flexable branch peduncle
which issues from the extremities of the boughs. the peduncle of this
cherry Swells as it approaches the fruit being largest at the point of
insertion. the pulp of this fruit is of an agreeable ascid flavour and
is now ripe. the Style and Stigma are permanent. I have never Seen it
in blume. it is found on the high Stiff lands or hill Sides-. the men
dug great parcel of the root which the Nativs call Hankee and the
engagees the white apple which they boiled and made use of with their
meat. This is a large insipid root and very tasteless. the nativs use
this root after it is dry and pounded in their Seup.
[Clark, August 11, 1806]
Wednesday 11th August 1806
I set out early this morning. at 10 A.M. landed on a Sand bar and
brackfast dureing brackfast and my delay at this place which was 2
hours had the Elk meat exposed to the Sun. at Meridian I set out and
had not proceeded more than 2 miles before I observed a Canoe near the
Shore. I derected the Canoes to land here I found two men from the
illinoies Jos. Dixon, and ____ Handcock those men are on a trapping
expedition up the River Rochejhone. They inform me that they left the
Illinois in the Summer 1804. the last winter they Spent with the Tetons
in Company with a Mr. Coartong who brought up goods to trade The tetons
robed him of the greater part of the goods and wounded this Dixon in
the leg with a hard wad. The Tetons gave Mr. Coartong Some fiew robes
for the articles they took from him. Those men further informed me that
they met the Boat and party we Sent down from Fort Mandan near the
Kanzas river on board of which was a Chief of the Ricaras, that he met
the Yankton Chiefs with Mr. Deurion, McClellen & Several other traders
on their way down. that the Mandans and Menitarrais wer at war with the
Ricaras and had killed two of the latter. the Assinniboins were also at
war with the Mandans &c and had prohibited the N W. traders from
Comeing to the Missouri to trade. they have latterly killed one Trader
near the Mous River and are now in wait for Mr. McKenzey one of the
Clerks who have been for a long time with Menetarias. Those dificulties
if true will I fear be a bar to our expectations of having the Mandan
Minetarra & Ricara Chief to acompany us to the U. States. Tho we Shall
endeaver to bring abot a peace between Mandans Mennetaries & Ricaras
and provail on Some of their Cheifs to accompany us to the U. States.
proceeded on to a point on the S W Side nearly opposit the enterance of
Goat pen creek and encamped found the Musquetors excessively troublesom.
[Clark, August 12, 1806]
Thursday 12th August 1806
I set out early this morning and had not proceeded on far before
Shannon discovered he had lost his Tomahk. I derected him to land his
Skin Canoe and go back to our Camp of last night in Serch of it, and
proceeded on my self with the two wood and one Skin Canoe to a large
hottom on the N. E Side above the head of Jins island and landed to
take brackfast as well as to delay untill Shannon & Gibson Should
arive. Sent out Shields & Labiech to hunt deer in the bottom, at 2 P m.
Shannon and gibson arived having found the tomahawk at our camp they
killed 3 Elk &c. one of the Canoes of Buffalow Skin by accident got a
hole peirced in her of about 6 inches diamuter. I derected two of the
men to patch the Canoe with a piece of Elk skin over the hole, which
they did and it proved all Sufficient, after which the Canoe did not
leak one drop. The two hunters returned without haveing killed any
thing. at meridian Capt Lewis hove in Sight with the party which went
by way of the Missouri as well as that which accompanied him from
Travellers rest on Clarks river; I was alarmed on the landing of the
Canoes to be informed that Capt. Lewis was wounded by an accident-. I
found him lying in the Perogue, he informed me that his wound was
slight and would be well in 20 or 30 days this information relieved me
very much. I examined the wound and found it a very bad flesh wound the
ball had passed through the fleshey part of his left thy below the hip
bone and cut the cheek of the right buttock for 3 inches in length and
the debth of the ball. Capt L. informed me the accident happened the
day before by one of the men Peter Crusat misstakeig him in the thick
bushes to be an Elk. Capt Lewis with this Crusat and Several other men
were out in the bottom Shooting of Elk, and had Scattered in a thick
part of the woods in pursute of the Elk. Crusat Seeing Capt L. passing
through the bushes and takeing him to be an Elk from the Colour of his
Cloathes which were of leather and very nearly that of the Elk fired
and unfortunately the ball passed through the thy as aforesaid. Capt
Lewis thinking it indians who had Shot him hobbled to the canoes as
fast as possible and was followered by Crusat, the mistake was then
discovered. This Crusat is near Sighted and has the use of but one eye,
he is an attentive industerous man and one whome we both have placed
the greatest Confidence in dureing the whole rout.--After Capt. Lewis
and my Self parted at Travellers rest, he with the Indians proceeded
down the West Side of Clarks river Seven miles and crossed on rafts 2
miles below the East fork 120 yards wide, after Crossing the river he
proceeded up the North Side of the east fork and encampd. here the
Indians left him and proceeded down Clarks river in Serch of the
Tushepaws. an Indian man Came up with Cap L. from the W. of the
mountains and proceeded on with those who had accompanied us. Capt. L.
proceeded up the E. fork of Clarks river 17 ms. to the enterance of
Cokahlarishkit river or the river to buffalow, he proceeded up on the
North Side of this river which is 60 yards wide crossing Several Small
Streams and the N. fork, and passing over part of the dividing mountain
onto the waters of Deabourns river in the plains and in a Derection to
the N. extremity of Easte range of rocky mountains which pass the
Missouri at the pine Island Rapid. from thence he bore his Course to
the N E untill he Struck Meadcin river near where that river Enters the
rocky Mts. and proceeded down Medicine river to the Missouri at the
white bear Islands at the upper part of the portage. this rout is a
very good one tho not the most derect rout, the most derect rout would
be to proceed up the Missouri above Dearborns river and take a right
hand road & fall on a South branch of the Cokatlarishkit R. and proceed
down that river to the main road but the best rout would be from the
falls of the Missouri by fort mountain and passing the N. extremity of
that range of the Rocky Mountains which pass the Missouri at the pine
Island rapid Course nearly S. W. and to the gap through which the great
road passeds the dividing mountain the distance from the falls to this
gap about 45 miles through a tolerable leavel plain on an old indian
road. and the distance from thence to Clarks river is 105 miles. The
total distance from the falls of the Missouri to Clarks river is only
150 miles of a tolerable road--Capt L. arived at the white Bear Islands
and encampd. on the West Side of the Missouri and in the morning he
discovered that the Indians had taken of Seven of his best horses,
drewyer prosued the indians two day's on the rout towards Clarks river.
he Saw their camp on Dearborns river near the road on which Capt. Lewis
& party Come on a by place where they had left only one or two day at
this encampment he Saw great appearanc of horses--on the return of
Drewyer Capt L. took Drewyer & the 2 fieldses & proceeded on his
intended rout up Marias river leaving Sergt. Gass, Thompson, Frazier,
Werner, McNeal & Goodrich at the portage to prepare Geer and repar the
wheels & Carrage against the arival of the Canoes and he also left 4
horses for the purpose of hauling the Canoes across. The Canoes arrived
on the 16th, and on the 26th they had all except one across, the Plains
becom So muddy from the emence rains which had fallen, that they Could
not get her over the portage. on the 28th they joined Capt Lewis at the
Grog Spring a fiew miles above the enterance of Marias river From the
Falls of Missouri Capt. L. proceeded on with Drewyer & the 2 fieldses
Courss
On the 26th of July Capt Lewis Set out on his return to the enterance
of Marias river to meet with the party with, the Canoes from the falls.
his course was through the plains
S. E. 5 Miles--passing a Small Creek from the mts
S. 70° E. 9 Miles to a principal branch of Marias River 65 yards wide not
very deep at 7 mile. this last branch is Shallow and rapid about the
Size of the former from the S W. both of those Streams Contain a great
preportion of timber--here we find the 3 Specis of Cotton before
mentioned
N 80° E. 4 miles down Marias river and met with 8 Indians of the
Blackfoot nation with about 30 horses, those Indians professed
friendship and Set out with him and encamped together the night of the
26th of July, thy informed him that there was two large bands of their
nation in that quarter one of which would be at the enterance of Marias
river in a fiew days. they also informed that a french Trader was with
one of those bands, that they traded with the white people on the
Suskashwen River at 6 easy days march or about 150 miles distant from
whome they precured Guns Powder Lead blankets &c. in exchange for wolf
and beaver Skins. Capt Lewis gave them a Flag Meadel & Handkerchief
Capt. L. informed those Indians where he was from & where he had been
and his objects & friendly views &c. of which they appeared to be well
Satisfied.
"on the morning of the 27th at day light the indians got up and crouded
around the fire, Jo. Field who was on post had carelessly laid his gun
down behind him near where his brother was Sleeping. one of the Indians
Slipd. behind him and took his gun and that of his brother unperceived
by him, at the Same instant two others advanced and Seized the guns of
Drewyer and Capt Lewis who were yet asleep. Jo. Fields Seeing this
turned about to take his gun and Saw the fellow running off with his
and his brothers, he called to his brother who instantly jumped up and
prosued the indian with him whome they overtook at the distance of 50
or 60 paces Siezed their guns and rested them from him and R. Field as
he Seized his gun Stabed the indian to the heart with his knif who fell
dead; (this Cap L. did not know untill Some time after.) drewyer who
awoke at the first alarm jumped up and Seized & rested his gun from the
indian &c. Capt L. awoke and asked what was the matter Seeing Drewyer
in a Scuffle for his gun he turned to get his gun and found her gorn,
he drew a pistol from his holsters and prosued the Indian whom he Saw
in possession of his gun making off he presented the pistol and the
indian lay down the gun. the two Fields Came up and drew up to Shoot
the Indian which Capt L. forbid the indians then attempted to drive off
all the horses. Capt L. derected the men to fire on them if they
attempted to drive off the horses, and prosued two fellows who
Continued to drive of his horses he Shot the indian who had taken his
gun and then in possession of his horse through the belly, he fell and
raised on his elbow and fired at Capt L. the other made his escape into
a nitch out of Sight with his bow and arrows and as Capt L. guns was
empty and he without his Shot pouch he returnd. to the Camp where the 2
fields and Drewyer joind him having prosued the indians across the
river the were now in possession of the most of their own as well as
the indian horses and a gun Several bows & arrows and all the indians
baggage the gun & Some feathers and flag they took and burnt all the
other articles. and Saddled up a many of the best horses as they wished
with Some Spear horses, and Set out for to intersept the party at
Marias river and proceded on a little to the S. of East 112 Miles to
the Missouri at the Grog Spring. here they met with Canoes and party
decending joined them leaving their horses on the river bank, and
proceeded on to the enterance of Marias river opened the deposits,
found Several articles damaged. 3 Beaver traps could not be found, the
red perogue unfit for Service, from thenc they proceeded without delay
to the River Rochejhone See cources of Capt Lewis rout in next book."
at 2 P.M. Shannon & Gibson arived in the Skin Canoe with the Skins and
the greater part of the flesh of 3 Elk which they had killed a fiew
miles above. the two men Dixon & Handcock the two men we had met above
came down intending to proceed on down with us to the Manclans. at 3 P
M we proceded on all together having left the 2 leather Canoes on the
bank. a little below the enterance of (Jos) Shabonos Creek we Came too
on a large Sand point from the S. E. Side and Encamped. the wind blew
very hard from the S W. and Some rain. I washed Capt L. wound which has
become Sore and Somewhat painfull to him.
[Clark, August 13, 1806]
Friday 13th August 1806
the last night was very Cold with a Stiff breeze from the N. W. all
hands were on board and we Set out at Sunrize and proceeded on very
well with a Stiff breeze astern the greater part of the day. passed the
enterance of the Little Missouri river at 8 A.M. and arived at the
Enterance of Myry river at Sun Set and encamped on the N E Side haveing
came by the assistance of the wind, the Current and our oars 86 miles.
below the little bason I with Drewyer walked through the N. E point. we
Saw an Elk and Several deer. Drewyer wounded the Elk but could not get
him. I joined the perogus & party again in the bend below and proceeded
on. Some indians were Seen in a Skin Canoe below, they were decending
from an old Camp of theirs on the S. W. Side, those I Suppose to be
Some of the Minetaras who had been up on a hunting expedition, one
Canoe was left at their Camp. we had not proceeded far before I
discovered two indians on a high hill. nothing very remarkable took
place. the Misquetors are not So troublesom this evening as they have
been. the air is cool &c.
[Clark, August 14, 1806]
Thursday 14th August 1806
Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on. when we were opposit the Minetares
Grand Village we Saw a number of the Nativs viewing of we derected the
Blunderbuses fired Several times, Soon after we Came too at a Croud of
the nativs on the bank opposit the Village of the Shoe Indians or
Mah-har-ha's at which place I saw the principal Chief of the Little
Village of the Menitarre & the principal Chief of the Mah-har-has.
those people were extreamly pleased to See us. the Chief of the little
Village of the Menetarias cried most imoderately, I enquired the Cause
and was informed it was for the loss of his Son who had been killed
latterly by the Blackfoot Indians. after a delay of a fiew minits I
proceeded on to the black Cats Village on the N. E. Side of the
Missouri where I intended to Encamp but the Sand blew in Such a manner
that we deturmined not to continu on that Side but return to the Side
we had left. here we were visited by all the inhabitants of this
village who appeared equally as well pleased to See us as those above.
I walked up to the Black Cats village & eate some Simnins with him, and
Smoked a pipe this Village I discovered had been rebuilt Since I left
it and much Smaller than it was; on enquirey into the Cause was
informed that a quarrel had taken place and Lodges had removed to the
opposd Side. I had Soon as I landed despatched Shabono to the
Minetarras inviting the Chiefs to visit us, & Drewyer down to the lower
Village of the Mandans to ask Mr. Jessomme to Come and enterpret for
us. Mr. Jessomme arived and I spoke to the chiefs of the Village
informing them that we Spoke to them as we had done when we were with
them last and we now repeeted our envitation to the principal Chiefs of
all the Villages to accompany us and to the U States &c. &c. the Black
Cat Chief of the Mandans, Spoke and informed me that he wished to Visit
the United States and his Great Father but was afraid of the Scioux who
were yet at war with them and had killed Several of their men Since we
had left them, and were on the river below and would Certainly kill him
if he attempted to go dow.i. I indeavered to do away with his
objections by informig him that we would not Suffer those indians to
hurt any of our red Children who Should think proper to accompany us,
and on their return they would be equally protected, and their presents
which would be very liberal, with themselves, Conveyed to their own
Country at the expence of the U. States &c. &c. The chief promised us
Some corn tomorrow. after the Council I directed the Canoes to cross
the river to a brook opposit where we Should be under the wind and in a
plain where we would be Clear of musquetors & after Crossing the Chief
of the Mah har has told me if I would Send with him he would let me
have some corn. I directed Sergt Gass & 2 men to accompany him to his
Village, they Soon returned loaded with Corn. the Chief and his wife
also came down. I gave his wife a fiew Needles &c.--The Great Chif of
all the Menitarres the one eye Came to Camp also Several other Chiefs
of the different Villages. I assembled all the Chiefs on a leavel Spot
on the band and Spoke to them & see next book.
[Clark, August 15, 1806]
Thursday August 15th 1806 Continued Mandans Vilg
after assembling the Chiefs and Smokeing one pipe, I informed them that
I Still Spoke the Same words which we had Spoken to them when we first
arived in their Country in the fall of 1804. we then envited them to
visit their great father the president of the U. States and to hear his
own Councils and receive his Gifts from his own hands as also See the
population of a government which Can at their pleasure protect and
Secur you from all your enimies, and chastize all those who will Shut
their years to his Councils. we now offer to take you at the expense of
our Government and Send you back to your Country again with a
considerable present in merchendize which you will recive of your great
Father. I urged the necessity of their going on with us as it would be
the means of hastening those Supples of Merchindize which would be Sent
to their Country and exchanged as before mentioned for a moderate price
in Pelteries and furs &c. the great Chief of the Menetaras Spoke, he
Said he wished to go down and See his great father very much, but that
the Scioux were in the road and would most certainly kill him or any
others who Should go down they were bad people and would not listen to
any thing which was told them. when he Saw us last we told him that we
had made peace with all the nations below, Since that time the Seioux
had killed 8 of their people and Stole a number of their horses. he
Said that he had opened his ears and followed our Councils, he had made
peace with the Chyennes and rocky mountains indians, and repieted the
same objecctions as mentioned. that he went to war against none and was
willing to receive all nations as friends. he Said that the Ricaras had
Stolen from his people a number of horses at different times and his
people had killed 2 Ricaras. if the Sieoux were at peace with them and
Could be depended on he as also other Chiefs of the villages would be
glad to go and See their great father, but as they were all afraid of
the Sieoux they Should not go down &c.
The Black Cat Chief of the Mandans Village on the North Side of the
Missouri Sent over and requested me to go over to his village which
envertation I axceptd and crossed over to his village. he had a parcel
of Corn about 12 bushuls in a pile in his lodge. he told me that his
people had but little corn part of which they had given me. after
takeing a Smoke he informed me that as the Sieoux were very troublesom
and the road to his great father dangerous none of this village would
go down with us. I told the Cheifs and wariers of the village who were
there present that we were anxious that Some of the village Should go
and See their great father and hear his good words & recve his
bountifull gifts &c. and told them to pitch on Some Man on which they
could rely on and Send him to See their Great father, they made the
Same objections which the Chief had done before. a young man offered to
go down, and they all agreeed for him to go down the charector of this
young man I knew as a bad one and made an objection as to his age and
Chareckter at this time Gibson who was with me informed me that this
young man had Stole his knife and had it then in his possession, this I
informed the Chief and directed him to give up the knife he delivered
the knife with a very faint apology for his haveing it in his
possession. I then reproached those people for wishing to Send Such a
man to See and hear the words of So great a man as their great father;
they hung their heads and Said nothing for Some time when the Cheif
Spoke and Said that they were afraid to Send any one for fear of their
being killed by the Sieux. after Smoking a pipe and relateing Some
passages I recrossed to our Camp-. being informed by one of our
enterpreters that the 2d Chief of the Mandans Comonly Called the little
Crow intended to accompany us down, I took Charbono and walked to the
Village to See this Chief and talk with him on the Subject. he told me
he had deturmined to go down, but wished to have a council first with
his people which would be in the after part of the day. I smoked a pipe
with the little Crow and returned to the boat. Colter one of our men
expressed a desire to join Some trappers who offered to become Shearers
with and furnish traps &c. the offer a very advantagious one, to him,
his Services Could be dispenced with from this down and as we were
disposed to be of Service to any one of our party who had performed
their duty as well as Colter had done, we agreed to allow him the
prvilage provided no one of the party would ask or expect a Similar
permission to which they all agreeed that they wished Colter every
Suckcess and that as we did not wish any of them to Seperate untill we
Should arive at St. Louis they would not apply or expect it &c. The
Maharha Chief brought us Some Corn, as did also the Chief of the little
village of the Menetarras on mules of which they have Several. The
evening is Cool and windy. great number of the nativs of the different
villages Came to view us and exchange robes with our men for their
Skins--we gave Jo Colter Some Small articles which we did not want and
Some powder & lead. the party also gave him Several articles which will
be usefull to him on his expedittion.--This evening Charbono informed
me that our back was scercely turned before a war party from the two
menetarry villages followed on and attacked and killed the Snake
Indians whome we had Seen and in the engagement between them and the
Snake indians they had lost two men one of which was the Son of the
principal Chief of the little village of the menitarras. that they had
also went to war from the Menetarras and killed two Ricaras. he further
informed me that a missunderstanding had taken place between the
Mandans & minetarras and had verry nearly come to blows about a woman,
the Menitarres at length presented a pipe and a reconsilliation took
place between them
[Clark, August 16, 1806]
Friday 16th August 1806
a cool morning. Sent up Sergt. Pryor to the mandan village, for Some
Corn which they offered to give us. he informed that they had more Corn
collected for us than our Canoes Could Carry Six load of which he
brought down. I thanked the Chief for his kindness and informed him
that our Canoes would not Carry any more Corn than we had already
brought down. at 10 A. M the Chiefs of the different villages came to
See us and Smoke a pipe &c. as our Swivel Could no longer be
Serveceable to us as it could not be fireed on board the largest
Perogue, we Concluded to make a present of it to the Great Chief of the
Menetaras (the One Eye) with a view to ingratiate him more Strongly in
our favour I had the Swivel Charged and Collected the Chiefs in a
circle around it and adressed them with great ceremoney. told them I
had listened with much attention to what the One Eye had Said yesterday
and beleived that he was Sincere & Spoke from his heart. I reproached
them very Severely for not attending to what had been Said to them by
us in Council in the fall of 1804 and at different times in the winter
of 1804 & 5, and told them our backs were Scercely turned befor a party
followed and killed the pore defenceless snake indians whom we had
taken by the hand & told them not to be afraid that you would never
Strike them again &c. also mentioned the ricers &c. The little Cherry
old Chief of the Menetarras Spoke as follows Viz: "Father we wish to go
down with you to See our Great Father, but we know the nations below
and are afraid of the Scioux who will be on the river and will kill us
on our return home. The Scioux has Stolen our horses and killed 8 of
our men Since you left us, and the Ricaras have also Struck us. we
Staid at home and listened to what you had told us. we at length went
to war against the Scioux and met with Ricaras and killed two of them,
they were on their way to Strike us. We will attend to your word and
not hurt any people all Shall be Welcom and we Shall do as you
direct-." The One Eye Said his ears would always be open to the word of
his great father and Shut against bad Council &c. I then a good deel of
Ceremony made a preasent of the Swivel to the One Eye Chief and told
him when he fired this gun to remember the words of his great father
which we had given him. this gun had anounced the words of his great
father to all the nations which we had Seen &c. &c. after the council
was over the gun was fired & delivered, they Chief appeared to be much
pleased and conveyed it immediately to his village &c. we Settled with
and discharged Colter. in the evening I walked to the village to See
the little Crow and know when he would be ready, took with me a flag
intending to give him to leave at his lodge but to my astonishment he
informed me he had declined going down the reason of which I found was
through a jellousy between himself and the principal Chief he refused a
flag & we Sent for Mr. Jessomme and told him to use his influn to
provail on one of the Chiefs to acompany us and we would employ him. he
informed us soon after that the big white Chief would go if we would
take his wife & Son & Jessoms wife & 2 children we wer obliged to agree
to do
[Clark, August 17, 1806]
Saturday 17th of August 1806
a Cool morning gave some powder & Ball to Big White Chief Settled with
Touisant Chabono for his Services as an enterpreter the pric of a horse
and Lodge purchased of him for public Service in all amounting to 500$
33 1/3 cents. derected two of the largest of the Canoes be fastened
together with poles tied across them So as to make them Study for the
purpose of Conveying the Indians and enterpreter and their families
we were visited by all the principal Chiefs of the Menetarras to take
their leave of us at 2 oClock we left our encampment after takeing
leave of Colter who also Set out up the river in Company with Messrs.
Dickson & Handcock. we also took our leave of T. Chabono, his Snake
Indian wife and their Son Child who had accompanied us on our rout to
the pacific Ocean in the Capacity of interpreter and interpretes. T.
Chabono wished much to accompany us in the Said Capacity if we could
have provailed the Menetarre Chiefs to dcend the river with us to the
U. States, but as none of those chiefs of whoes language he was
Conversent would accompany us, his Services were no longer of use to
the U States and he was therefore discharged and paid up. we offered to
convey him down to the Illinois if he Chose to go, he declined
proceeding on at present, observing that he had no acquaintance or
prospects of makeing a liveing below, and must continue to live in the
way that he had done. I offered to take his little Son a butifull
promising Child who is 19 months old to which they both himself & wife
wer willing provided the Child had been weened. they observed that in
one year the boy would be Sufficiently old to leave his mother & he
would then take him to me if I would be so freindly as to raise the
Child for him in Such a manner as I thought proper, to which I agreeed
&c.--we droped down to the Big white Cheifs Mandan Village 1/2 a mile
below on the South Side, all the Indians proceeded on down by land. and
I walked to the lodge of the Chief whome I found Sorounded by his
friends the men were Setting in a circle Smokeing and the womin Crying.
he Sent his bagage with his wife & Son, with the Interpreter Jessomme &
his wife and 2 children to the Canoes provided for them. after Smoking
one pipe, and distributing Some powder & lead which we had given him,
he informed me that he was ready and we were accompd to the Canoes by
all the Village Maney of them Cried out aloud. as I was about to Shake
with the Grand Cheifs of all the Villages there assembled they
requested me to Set one minit longer with them which I readily agreed
to and directed a pipe to be lit. the Cheifs informed that when we
first came to their Country they did not beleive all we Said we then
told them. but they were now Convinced that every thing we had told
them were true, that they Should keep in memory every thing which we
had Said to them, and Strictly attend to our advice, that their young
men Should Stay at home and Should no go again to war against any
nation, that if any atacted them they Should defend themselves, that we
might depend on what they Said, and requested us to inform their great
father. the also requested me to tell the Ricaras to Come and See them,
not to be afraid that no harm Should be done them, that they were
anxious to be in peace with them.
The Seeoux they Said they had no dependance in and Should kill them
whenever they Came into their Country to do them harm &c. I told them
that we had always told them to defend themselves, but not to Strike
those nations we had taken by the hand, the Sieoux with whome they were
at war we had never Seen on our return we Should inform their great
fathe of their conduct towards his faithfull red Children and he would
take Such Steps as will bring about a lasting peace between them and
his faithfull red children. I informed them that we should inform the
ricaras what they had requested &c. The Grand Chief of the Mineterres
Said that the Great Cheif who was going down with to see their great
father was a well as if he went also, and on his return he would be
fully informed of the words of his great father, and requested us to
take care of this Gt. Chief. we then Saluted them with a gun and Set
out and proceeded on to Fort Mandan where I landed and went to view the
old works the houses except one in the rear bastion was burnt by
accident, Some pickets were Standing in front next to the river. we
proceeded on to the old Ricara village the S E wind was so hard and the
waves So high that we were obliged to Come too, & Camp on the S W Side
near the old Village. (18 mils)
[Clark, August 18, 1806]
Monday 18th August 1806.
moderate rain last night, the wind of this morning from the S. E. as to
cause the water to be So rough that we Could not proceed on untill 8
a.m. at which time it fell a little & we proceeded on tho the waves
were yet high and the wind Strong. Saw Several Indians on either Side
of the river. at 9 A.M. I saw an Indian running down the beech and
appd. to be anxious to Speak to us I derected the Canoes to land. this
Indian proved to be the brother of the Chief we had on board and Came
down from his Camp at no great distance to take his leave of his
brother. the Chief gave him a par of Legins and took an effectunate
leave of his brother and we procedeed on haveing previously Sent on 2
canoes with hunters to kill Some meat at 2 P. M we overtook the Canoe
hunters, they had killed three deer which was divided and we halted and
Cooked Some dinner on the Sandbar. wind Still high and from the Same
point. The Chief pointed out Several places where he Said his nation
formerly lived and related Some extroadinary Stories of their
tredition. after Dinner we proceeded on, to a point on the N E. Side
opposit the remains of an old Mandan village a little below the
enterance of Chiss-che for River and the place we Encamped as we
assended this river 20th of October 1804 haveing come 40 miles today.
after landing which was a little before night the hunters run out into
the bottom and Killed four deer. The winds blew hard from the S. E. all
day which retarded our progress very much after the fires were made I
set my self down with the big white man Chiefe and made a number of
enquiries into the tredition of his nation as well as the time of their
inhabiting the number of Villages the remains of which we see on
different parts of the river, as also the cause of their evacuation. he
told me his nation first Came out of the ground where they had a great
village. a grape vine grew down through the Earth to their village and
they Saw light Some of their people assended by the grape vine upon the
earth, and Saw Buffalow and every kind of animal also Grapes plumbs &c.
they gathered Some grapes & took down the vine to the village, and they
tasted and found them good, and deturmined to go up and live upon the
earth, and great numbers climbed the vine and got upon earth men womin
and children. at length a large big bellied woman in climbing broke the
vine and fell and all that were left in the Village below has remained
there ever Since (The Mandans beleive when they die that they return to
this village) Those who were left on earth made a village on the river
below and were very noumerous &c. he Said that he was born in the
Village Opposit to our Camp and at that time his nation inhabited 7
villages as large as that and were full of people, the Sieoux and Small
pox killed the greater part of them and made them So weak that all that
were left only made two Small villages when Collected, which were built
near the old Ricaras village above. their troubles with the Scioux &
Pawnees or Ricaras Compelled them to move and build a village where
they now live.
he Said that the Menitarras Came out of the water to the East and Came
to this Country and built a village near the mandans from whome they
got Corn beens &c. they were very noumerous and resided in one village
a little above this place on the opposit Side. they quarreled about a
buffalow, and two bands left the village and went into the plains,
(those two bands are now known bye the title Pounch, and Crow Indians.)
the ballance of the Menetaras moved their village to where it now
Stands where they have lived ever Since-
[Clark, August 19, 1806]
Tuesday 19th of August 1806
Some rain last night and this morning the wind rose and blew with great
Violence untill 4 P. M and as our camp was on a Sand bar we were very
much distressd with the blows of Sand. I directed the hunters to
proceed on down the bottom and kill and butcher Some meat and if the
wind Should lie that I should proceed on down to their Camp &c. Capt.
Lewis'es wounds are heeling very fast, I am much in hope of his being
able to walk in 8 or 10 days-. at 4 P. M the wind Seased to blow with
that violence which it had done all day we Set out and proceeded on
down. the hunters which was Sent out this morning killed 4 Elk & 12
deer near the river we came too and brought in the most of the flesh
and proceeded on to a Sand on the N E Side and Encamped. the wind rose
and become very Strong from the S. E. and a great appearance of rain.
Jessomme the Interpreter let me have a piece of a lodge and the Squars
pitched or Stretched it over Some Sticks, under this piece of leather I
Slept dry, it is the only covering which I have had Suffecient to keep
off the rain Since I left the Columbia. it began to rain moderately
Soon after night. The Indians appear well Satisfyed with the party and
mode of proceedure. we decended only 10 miles to day Saw Some Elk and
buffalow on the Shore near where we Encamped. the Elk beginning to run.
the Buffalow are done running & the bulls are pore.
[Clark, August 20, 1806]
Wednesday 20th of August 1806
a violent hard rain about day light this morning. all wet except myself
and the indians. we embarked a little after Sun rise wind moderate and
ahead. we proceeded on at meridn. passed the enterance of Cannonball
river imediately above is the remains of a large Sieoux encampment
which appears to have been made this Spring. at 3 P M passed the
enterance of Wardepon River Saw great number of wolves on the bank Some
Buffalow & Elk, tho not so abundant as near the River Rochejhone.
passed the place where we left the last encampment of Ricaras in the
fall 1804 and encamped on a Sandbar from the N. E. Side, having made 8
miles only, the wind blew hard all day which caused the waves to rise
high and flack over into the Small Canoes in Such a manner as to employ
one hand in throwing the water out. The plains begin to Change their
appearance the grass is turning of a yellow colour. I observe a great
alteration in the Corrent course and appearance of this pt. of the
Missouri. in places where there was Sand bars in the fall 1804 at this
time the main Current passes, and where the current then passed is now
a Sand bar Sand bars which were then naked are now covered with willow
Several feet high. the enteranc of Some of the Rivers & Creeks Changed
owing to the mud thrown into them, and a layor of mud over Some of the
bottoms of 8 inches thick.
[Clark, August 21, 1806]
Thursday 21st August 1806
Musquetors very troublesom in the early part of last night and again
this morning I directed Sergt. Ordway to proceed on to where there was
Some ash and get enough for two ores which were wanting. Men all put
their arms in perfect order and we Set out at 5 a.m. over took Sergt.
ordway with wood for oars &c. at 8 A.M. Met three french men Comeing
up, they proved to be three men from the Ricaras two of them Reevea &
Greinyea wintered with us at the mandans in 1804 we Came too, those men
informed us that they were on their way to the Mandans, and intended to
go down to the Illinois this fall. one of them quit a young lad
requested a passage down to the Illinois, we concented and he got into
a Canoe to an Ore. Those men informd us that 700 Seeoux had passed the
Ricaras on their way to war with the Mandans & Menitarras and that
their encampment where the Squaws and Children wer, was Some place near
the Big Bend of this river below. no ricaras had accompanied them but
were all at home, they also informed us that no trader had arived at
the Ricaras this Season, and that they were informed that the Pania or
Ricara Chief who went to the United States last Spring was a year, died
on his return at Smoe place near the Sieoux river &c. those men had
nether powder nor lead we gave them a horn of powder and Some balls and
after a delay of an hour we parted from the 2 men Reevey & Grienway and
proceeded on. the wind rose and bley from the N. W. at half past 11
a.m. we arived in view of the upper Ricara villages, a Great number of
womin Collecting wood on the banks, we Saluted the village with four
guns and they returned the Salute by fireing Several guns in the
village, I observed Several very white Lodges on the hill above the
Town which the ricaras from the Shore informed me were Chyennes who had
just arived-. we landed opposit to the 2d Villages and were met by the
most of the men women and children of each village as also the Chyennes
they all appeared anxious to take us by the hand and much rejoiced to
See us return. I Steped on Shore and was Saluted by the two great
Chiefs, whome we had made or given Medals to as we assend this river in
1804, and also Saluted by a great number both of Ricaras & Chyennes, as
they appeared anxious to here what we had done &c. as well as to here
Something about the Mandans & Minetarras. I Set my self down on the
Side of the Bank and the Chiefs & brave men of the Ricaras & Chyennes
formed a Cercle around me. after takeing a Smoke of Mandan tobacco
which the Big white Chief who was Seated on my left hand furnished, I
informed them as I had before informed the Mandans & Menitarras, where
we had been what we had done and Said to the different nations in there
favour and envited Some of their Chiefs to accompany us down and See
their great father and receve from his own mouth his good Councils and
from his own hands his bountifull gifts &c. telling pretty much the
Same which I had told the mandans and menitarras. told them not to be
afraid of any nation below that none would hurt them &c. a man of about
32 years of age was intreduced to me as 1st Chief of the nation this
man they Call the grey eyes or ____ he was absent from the Nation at
the time we passed up, the man whome we had acknowledged as the
principal chief informed me that the Grey eyes was a greater Chief than
himself and that he had given up all his pretentions with the Flag and
Medal to the Grey eyes--The principal chief of the Chyenne's was then
introduced he is a Stout jolley fellow of about 35 years of age whome
the Ricaras Call the Grey Eyes I also told the ricaras that I was very
Sorrey to here that they were not on friendly terms with their
neighbours the Mandans & Menetarras, and had not listened to what we
had Said to them but had Suffered their young men to join the Sieoux
who had killed 8 Mandans &c. that their young men had Stolen the horses
of the Minetarras, in retaliation for those enjories the Mandans &
Menetarras had Sent out a war party and killed 2 ricaras. how could
they expect other nations would be at peace with them when they
themselves would not listen to what their great father had told them. I
further informed them that the Mandans & Menetaras had opened their
ears to what we had Said to them but had Staid at home untill they were
Struk that they were Still disposed to be friendly and on good terms
with the ricaras, they then Saw the great Chief of the Mandans by my
Side who was on his way to see his great father, and was derected by
his nation & the Menetaras & Maharhas, to Smoke in the pipe of peace
with you and to tell you not to be afraid to go to their towns, or take
the Birds in the plains that their ears were open to our Councils and
no harm Should be done to a Ricara. The Chief will Speak presently The
Grey eyes Chief of the ricaras made a very animated Speach in which he
mentioned his williness of following the councels which we had given
them that they had Some bad young men who would not listen to the
Councels but would join the Seioux, those men they had discarded and
drove out of their villages, that the Seioux were the Cause of their
Missunderstanding &c. that they were a bad peoples. that they had
killed Several of the Ricaras Since I Saw them. That Several of the
chiefs wished to accompany us down to See their great father, but
wished to see the Chief who went down last Sumer return first, he
expressed Some apprehention as to the Safty of that Chiefs in passing
the Sieoux. that the Ricaras had every wish to be friendly with the
Mandans &c. that every mandan &c. who chose to visit the ricares should
be Safe that he Should Continue with his nation and See that they
followed the Council which we had given them &c.--The Sun being very
hot the Chyenne Chief envited us to his Lodge which was pitched in the
plain at no great distance from the River. I accepted the invitation
and accompanied him to his lodge which was new and much larger than any
which I have Seen it was made of 20 dressed Buffalow Skins in the Same
form of the Sceoux and lodges of other nations of this quarter. about
this lodges was 20 others Several of them of nearly the Same Size. I
enquired for the ballance of the nation and was informed that they were
near at hand and would arive on tomorrow and when all together amounted
to 120 Lodges after Smokeing I gave a medal of the Small size to the
Chyenne Chief &c. which appeared to alarm him, he had a robe and a
fleece of fat Buffalow meat brought and gave me with the meadel back
and informed me that he knew that the white people were all medecine
and that he was afraid of the midal or any thing that white people gave
to them. I had previously explained the cause of my gveing him the
medal & flag, and again told him the use of the medal and the caus of
my giveing it to him, and again put it about his neck delivering him up
his preasent of a roab & meat, informing him that this was the medecene
which his Great father directed me to deliver to all the great Chiefs
who listened to his word and followed his councils, that he had done So
and I should leave the medal with him as a token of his cincerity &c.
he doubled the quantity of meat, and received the medal
The Big White chief of the Mandans Spoke at some length explainin the
Cause of the misunderstanding between his nation and the ricaras,
informing them of his wish to be on the most freindly termes &c. the
Chyennes accused both nations of being in folt. I told to them all that
if they eve wished to be hapy that they must Shake off all intimecy
with the Seioux and unite themselves in a Strong allience and attend to
what we had told them &c. which they promesed all to do and we Smoked
and parted on the best terms, the Mandan Chief was Saluted by Several
Chiefs and brave men on his way with me to the river--I had requested
the ricaras & Chyennes to inform me as Soon as possible of their
intentions of going down with us to See their great father or not. in
the evening the Great Chief requested that I would walk to his house
which I did, he gave me about 2 quarts of Tobacco, 2 beaver Skins and a
trencher of boiled Corn & beans to eat (as it is the Custom of all the
Nations on the Missouri to give Something to every white man who enters
their lodge Something to eat) this Chief informed me that none of his
Chiefs wished to go down with us they all wished to See the cheif who
went down return first, that the Chyennes were a wild people and were
afraid to go. that they Should all listen to what I had Said. I gave
him Some ribon to Suspend his Medal to and a Shell which the Snake
indians gave me for which he was very much pleased.
The interpreter informed me that the Cheifs of those villages had no
intention of going down. one the Cheifs of the Village on the island
talkd. of going down. I returned to the boat where I found the
principal Chief of the lower vilege who had Cut part of his hair and
disfigured himself in Such a manner that I did not know him, he
informed me the Sieux had killed his nephew and that Was in tears for
him &c. we deturmind to proceed down to the Island and accordingly took
the chief on board and proceeded on down to the isd village at which
place we arived a little before dark and were met as before by nearly
every individual of the Village, we Saluted them and landed imediately
opposit the town. The one arm 2d Cheif of this village whome we had
expected to accompany us down Spoke to the mandan Cheif in a loud and
thretening tone which Caused me to be Some what alarmed for the Safty
of that Cheif, I inform the Ricaras of this village that the Mandans
had opened their ears to and fold. our Councils, that this Cheif was on
his way to see their Great Father the P. of U S. and was under our
protection that if any enjorey was done to him by any nation that we
Should all die to a man. I told the Ricaras that they had told us lies,
they promised to be at peace with the mandans & Menetarras. that our
back was Scrcely turned before they went to war & Killd. them and Stole
their horses &c--The Cheif then envited me & the Mandan Chief to his
house to talk there. I accompanied him, after takeing a very
Serimonious Smoke the 2d Cheif informd. me that he had opened his ears
to what we had Said to him at the time we gave him the medal that he
had not been to war against any Natn. Since, that once been to See the
mandans and they were going to kill him, they had not killed the
Mandans, it was the Seeoux who killed them and not the ricaras, he Said
that the Mandan Cheif was as Safe as if he was in his own Vilg that he
had opened his ears and Could here as well as the mandans. I then
informd them what I had told the upper villages and we all become
perfectly reconsiled all to each other and Smoked in the most perfect
harmony we had invatations to go into their lodges and eate. I at
length went to the grand Chiefs Lodge by his particelar invitation, the
Mandan Chief Stuck close to me the Chief had prepd. a Supper of boiled
young Corn, beens & quashes of which he gave me in Wooden bowls. he
also gave me near 2 quarts of the Tobacco Seed, & informed me he had
always had his ears open to what we had Said, that he was well
convinced that the Seeoux was the caus of all the trouble between the
Mandans & them the Ricars had Stolen horses from the Mandan which had
been returned all except one which could not be got, this mischief was
done by Some young men who was bad. a long Conversation of explanations
took place between the Ricara & mandan Chiefs which appeared to be
Satisfactory on both Sides. the Chief gave a pipe with great form and
every thing appeared to be made up. I returned to the river & went to
bead. the Indians contd on board. made 22 miles today only.
[Clark, August 22, 1806]
Friday 22nd August 1806.
rained all the last night every person and all our bedding wet, the
Morning cloudy, at 8 A M. I was requested to go to the Chiefs, I walkd
up and he informed me that he Should not go down but would Stay and
take Care of the village and prevent the young men from doing rong and
Spoke much to the Same porpt of the Grey Eyes, the 2d Chief Spoke to
the Same and all they Said was only a repitition of what they had Said
before. the Chief gave me some Soft Corn and the 2d Chief Some Tobacco
Seed--the Interpreter Garrow informed me that he had been Speeking to
the Chiefs & warriers this morning and assured me that they had no
intention of going down untill the return of the Cheif who went down
last Spring was a year. I told the Cheifs to attend to what we had Said
to them, that in a Short time they would find our words tru and
Councils good. they promised to attend Strictly to what had been Said
to them, and observed that they must trade with the Sieoux one more
time to get guns and powder; that they had no guns or powder and had
more horses than they had use for, after they got guns and powder that
they would never again have any thing to do with them &c. &c. I
returned the Canoes & derected the men to prepare to Set out. Some
Chyennes from two Lodges on the Main S E. Shore Came and Smoked with me
and at 11 A. M we Set out haveing parted with those people who appeared
to be Sorry to part with us. at this nation we found a french man by
the name of Rokey who was one of our Engagees as high as the Mandans
this man had Spend all his wages, and requested to return with uswe
agreed to give him a passage down. I directed 2 guns to be fired. we
proceeded on passed the Marapa and the We ter hoo Rivers, and landed to
dry our bedding and robes &c which were all wet. here we delayed untill
6 P M. and dryed our things which were much Spoiled.
I derected 5 of the hunters to proceed on to Grouse Island a fiew miles
below and hunt on that island untill we arived, we proceded on to the
main N E Shore below the Island and encamped, the hunters joined us
without any thing. they Saw no game on the island. we made only 17
Miles to day. below the ricaras the river widens and the Sand bars are
emencely noumerous much less timber in the bottoms than above
The Chyenne's are portly Indians much the complections of the Mandans &
ricaras high Cheeks, Streight limbed & high noses the men are large,
their dress in Sumner is Simpelly a roab of a light buffalow Skin with
or without the hair and a Breach clout & mockerson Some ware leagins
and mockersons, their ornaments are but fiew and those are composed
principally of Such articles as they precure from other indians Such as
blue beeds, Shell, red paint rings of brass broaches &c. they also ware
Bears Claws about their necks, Strips of otter Skin (which they as well
as the ricaras are excessively fond of) around their neck falling back
behind. their ears are cut at the lower part, but fiew of them were
ornements in them, their hair is generally Cut in the forehead above
their eyes and Small ornimented plats in front of each Sholder the
remainder of the hair is either twisted in with horse or buffalow hair
divided into two plats over the Sholder or what is most common flow's
back, Their women are homely, corse feetured wide mouthes they ware
Simpially a leathe habit made in a plain form of two pieces of equal
length and equal weadth, which is sewen together with Sinues from the
tail to about half way from the hip to the arm, a String fastens the 2
pieces together over the Sholders leaveng a flap or lapells which fall
over near half way ther body both before and behind. those dresses
usially fall as low as mid leg, they are frequently ornemented with
beeds and Shells & Elk tuskes of which all Indians are very fond of.
those dresses are als frequently Printed in various regular figures
with hot sticks which are rubed on the leather with Such velosity as to
nearly burn it this is very handsom. they were their hair flowing and
are excessively fond of ornamenting their ears with blue beeds--this
nation peacbly disposed they may be estimated at from 350 to 400 men
inhabetig from 130 to 150 Lodges, they are rich in horses & Dogs, the
dogs Carry a great preportion of their light baggage. they Confess to
be at war with no nation except the Sieoux with whome they have ever
since their remembranc been on a difencive war, with the Bands of
Sieoux. as I was about to leave the Cheifs of the Chyennes lodge he
requested me to Send Some traders to them, that their country was full
of beaver and they would then be encouraged to Kill beaver, but now
they had no use for them as they could get nothing for their skins and
did not know well, how to catch beaver. if the white people would come
amongst them they would become acquainted and the white people would
learn them how to take the beaver-. I promised the Nation that I would
inform their Great father the President of the U States, and he would
have them Supplied with goods, and mentioned in what manner they would
be Supplied &c. &c.
I am happy to have it in my power to Say that my worthy friend Capt
Lewis is recovering fast, he walked a little to day for the first time.
I have discontinud the tent in the hole the ball came out
I have before mentioned that the Mandans Maharhas Menetarras &
Ricarras, keep their horses in the Lodge with themselves at night.
[Clark, August 23, 1806]
Saturday 23rd August 1806
We Set out very early, the wind rose & became very hard, we passed the
Sar-war-kar-na-har river at 10 A. M and at half past eleven the wind
became So high and the water So rough that we were obliged to put to
Shore and Continue untill 3 p. M. when we had a Small Shower of rain
after which the wind lay, and we proceeded on. Soon after we landed I
Sent Shields & Jo. & Reubin Fields down to the next bottom of timber to
hunt untill our arival. we proceeded on Slowly and landed in the
bottom. the hunters had killed three Elk and 3 Deer the deer were pore
and Elk not fat had them fleece & brought in. the Musqueters large and
very troublesom. at 4 P. M a Cloud from the N W with a violent rain for
about half an hour after the rain we again proceeded on. I observe
great quantities of Grapes and Choke Cheries, also a Speces of Currunt
which I had never before observed the leas is larger than those above,
the Currt. black and very inferior to either the yellow, red, or
perple--at dark we landed on a Small Sand bar under a Bluff on the S W.
Side and encamped, this Situation was one which I had Chosen to avoid
the Musquetors, they were not very troublesom after we landed. we Came
only 40 Miles to daye
My Frend Capt Lewis is recoverig fast the hole in his thy where the
Ball passed out is Closed and appears to be nearly well. the one where
the ball entered discharges very well-.
[Clark, August 24, 1806]
Sunday 24th August 1806
a fair morning we Set out as usial about Sunrise and proceeded on
untill 2 P M when the wind blew So hard from the N. W. that we could
not proceed came too on the S W. Side where we continued untill 5 P.M.
when the wind lay a little and we again proceeded on. at 8 a M. we
passed La-hoo-catts Island, opposit the lower point of this Island on
the S. W. Side near the top of the Bluff I observed a Stratea of White
stone I landed and examined it found it to be a Soft White Stone
containing very fine grit, when expd. to the Sun and become Dry this
Stone will Crumble the Clay of this bluff to the above and below is
remarkably Black. at half past 9 a.m. passed Good hope Island and at 11
a. m passed Caution Island a Short distance below this Island we came
too. Sent out a hunter he Saw Several deer they were very wild and he
returned without haveing killed any, the deer on this pt. of the
Missouri is mostly the Mule or black tail Species. we Saw only 6
buffalow to day the Sieoux have been laterly encamped on the river and
have Secured the most of the game opp. a large trail has passed on a
derection to the enterance of the Chyenne this probably is the trail of
a war party. at 5 P.M. we proceeded on a fiew miles and Encampd. on the
gouge of the lookout bend of 20 miles around and 3/4 through, a little
above an old tradeing house and 4 miles above of our outward bound
encampment of the 1st of October 1804, haveing made 43 miles to day.
[Clark, August 25, 1806]
Monday 25th August 1806
a cool clear morning a Stiff breeze ahead we Set out at the usial hour
and proceeded on very well. I derected Shields Collins Shannon and the
two fieldses to proceed on in the two small Canoes to the Ponia Island
and hunt on that Island untill we came on, they Set out before day
light The Skirt of timber in the bend above the Chyenne is not very
Considerable the timber is Scattered from 4 to 16 miles on the S W Side
of the river, and the thickest part is at the distance of 6 & 10 miles
from the Chyenne, a narrow bottom of Small Cotton trees is also on the
N E pt. at the distance of from 4 to 41/2 miles above the Chyenne
imediately at the enterance of that river I observe but fiew large
trees Some Small Growth and willows on the lower Side bottom on the
Missouri about 1/2 a mile and extends up the Chyen 1 mile about a
quarter of a mile above is a 2d bottom of Cotton timber, in the point
above the Chyenne there is a considerable bottom of about 2 miles on
that river and a large timbered bottom a Short distance above. at 8
A.M. we Came to at the mouth of the Chyenne to delay untill 12 to make
a meridian observation and derected 3 hunters to proced up this river
and hunt its bottoms untill twelve at which hou we Shall proceed on.
the hunters returned with 2 deer the Chyenne discharges but little
water which is much the colour of the missouri tho not So muddy I
observe a very eligable Situation on the bank of the Chyenne on it's
lower Side about 100 paces from it's enterance. this Situation is above
the high floods and has a perfect Command of each river we obtained a
Meridian altitude with the Sextt. and artificial Horizon 112° 50' 00"-
after which we proceeded on passed the pania Island and came up with
Shields and Collins they had killed two deer only at 3 P M we passed
the place where we Saw the last encampement of Troubleson Tetons below
the old ponia village on the S W Side. a very large timbered bottom on
the N. E. Side imedialely below the Pania Island. Latd. of Chyenne is
____ North. at Sunset we landed about the Center of a large bottom on
the N E Side a little below the enterance of No timber Creek and below
our Encampment of 29th of Septr. 1804. dreyer killed a deer after we
encamped. a little above our encampmt. the ricaras had formerly a large
village on each Side which was destroyed by the Seioux. there is the
remains of 5 other villages on the S W. Side below the Chyenne river
and one on Le ho catts Isld. all those villages have been broken up by
the Seioux. This day proved a fine Still day and the men played their
oars and we made 48 miles to day. The 2 fields and Shannon did not join
this evening which caused me to encamp earlier than usial for them. we
Saw no game on the plains today. the Tetons have been on the river not
long Since
[Clark, August 26, 1806]
Tuesday 26th of August 1806
a heavy dew this morning the hunters or Shannon & the 2 fields came up
at Sunrise and we Set out, they had killed only 2 Small deer one of
which they had eat at 8 passed the place the Tetons were encamped at
the time they attempted to Stop us in Septr. 1804, and at 9 A.M. passed
the enterance of Teton River. Saw Several black tail or Mule deer and
Sent out to kill them but they were wild and the hunters Could not get
a Shot at either of them. a fiew miles below the Teton river I observed
a buffalow Skin Canoe lying on the S Shore and a Short distance lower a
raft which induces me to Suspect that the Tetons are not on the
Missouri at the big bend as we were informed by the Ricaras, but up the
Teton river. at Meridn. we halted on the N E. Side opposit a handsom
leavel plain in which there is great quantities of plumbs which are not
yet ripe. we passed the enteranc of Smoke Creek and landed and
Continued two hours to Stop a leak in the perogue and fix the Stearing
oare, Saw great quantities of Grapes, they are black tho not thurerly
ripe. at 5 P M. we landed a Louisells fort on Ceder Island, this fort
is entire and every part appears to be in the Same state it was when we
passed it in Septr. 1804. I observed the appearance of 3 fires in the
houses which appeared to have been made 10 or 12 days past. we
proceeded on about 10 miles lower and encamped on the S. W. Side
opposit our outward bound encampment of the 21st of Septr. 1804, a fiew
miles above Tylors River. we had a Stiff breeze from the S. E. which
continued to blow the greater part of the night dry and pleasent. as we
were now in the Country where we were informed the Sceoux were
assembled we were much on our guard deturmined to put up with no
insults from those bands of Seioux, all the arms &. in perfect order.
Capt. L. is Still on the mending hand he walks a little. I have
discontinued the tent in the hole where the ball entered, agreeable to
his request. he tells me that he is fully Convinced that the wound is
sufficiently heeled for the tents to be discontinued. we made 60 miles
to day with the wind ahead greater part of the day-
[Clark, August 27, 1806]
Wednesday 27th Augt. 1806
Set out before Sunrise a Stiff breeze a head from the East proceeded to
the enterance of Tylors river on the S W Side and landed on a Sand bar
and Sent out the hunters to kill Some meat, our Stock of meat being now
exousted and this the most favourable place to precure a fresh Supply,
the hunters returned in 3 hours without haveing killed any thing. they
informed me that the bottoms were entirely beaten up and the grass laid
flat by the emence number of Buffalow which had been here a Short time
past. the deer had left the bottom. they Saw several Buffalow Bulls
which they did not think proper to kill as they were unfit for use.
here we discover the first Signs of the wild turkey. at 1 P M we halted
in the big bend and killed a fat buck elk near the river, which was
very timely as our meat was entirely exhosted. at 2 P. M we again
proceeded on down saw Several Buffalow Bulls on each Side of the river
also Some deer of the Common kind at 6 P.M. we herd the bellowing of
the Buffalow Bulls in the lower Isld. of the Big bend below the Gouge
which induced a belief that there was Some fat Cows, 5 men went out
from the 2 Small Canoes which was a little a head, and killed two Cows
one Bull and a Calf nether of them wer fat we droped the Perogue &
Canoes to the lower part of the Island near to where the buffalow was
killed and incamped haveing Come 45 Miles only to day. had the buffalow
butched and brought in and divided. My friend Capt Lewis hurt himself
very much by takeing a longer walk on the Sand bar in my absence at the
buffalow than he had Strength to undergo, which Caused him to remain
very unwell all night.
[Clark, August 28, 1806]
Thursday 28th of August 1806
Capt Lewis had a bad nights rest and is not very well this morning. we
Set out early and proceded on very well, Saw a number of Buffalow bulls
on the banks in different places. passd the 3 rivers of the Seioux pass
at 9 A.M. a Short distance below on the S W Side Sent out Reubin &
Joseph Feild to hunt for the Mule deer or the antilope neither of which
we have either the Skins or Scellitens of, we detected those two men to
proceed on down to the places we encamped the 16th & 17th of Septr.
1804 and which place the party had called pleasant Camp from the great
abundance of Game Such as Buffalow Elk, antilopes, Blacktail or mule
deer, fallow deer, common deer wolves barking Squirels, Turkies and a
variety of other animals, aded to which there was a great abundance of
the most delicious plumbs and grapes. this Situation which is a Short
distance above the enterance of Corvus Creek we are deturmined to delay
one day for the purpose of prcureing the sceletins of the Mule deer &
antilope, and Some barking Squirels. a fiew miles below the place the 2
Fields were Set on Shore we Set Drewyer and Labeech on Shore with the
Same directions which had been given to the 2 field's at 12 oClock we
Landed on the S W. Side at the Same Spot which we had encamped on the
16th and 17th of September 1804, and formed a Camp, Sent out Serjt.
Pryor, Shields, Go. Gibson, Willard and Collins to hunt in the plains
up Corvus Creek for the Antilope and Mule deer Sent out Bratten and
Frazier to kill the barking Squirel, and Gave directions to all of them
to kill the Magpye if they Should See any of them Several of the men
and the Squaws of the enterpreter Jessomme and the Mandan Chief went to
Some plumb bushes in the bottom and geathered more plumbs than the
party Could eate in 2 days, those blumbs are of 3 Speces, the most of
them large and well flavored. our Situation is pleasent a high bottom
thinly timbered and covered with low grass without misquitors. at 3 P.
M Drewyer and Labeech arived, the latter haveing killd. a Deer of the
Common Speceis only. in the evening late all the hunters returned
without any Speces of animal we were in want of, they killed 4 Common
deer and two buffalow a part of the best of the meat of those animals
they brought in. we precured two of the barking Squirels only. as we
Could not precere any Mule deer or antelope we concluded to Send the
hunters on a head early in the morning and delay untill 10 A. M to give
them time to hunt. I derected Shannon & Collins to go on the opposit
Side, and Labeech and Willard to proceed down on this Side at Some
distance from the river and join the party at the round Island &c. and
R. Field to proceed on Slowly in the Small Canoe to that place and take
in any thing which the hunters might kill. Made 32 miles to day
The hunters informed me that they Saw great numbers of Buffalow in the
plains. I Saw Several herds of those animals on either Side to day at a
distance.
[Clark, August 29, 1806]
Friday 29th August 1806
a cloudy morning the hunters proceeded on agreeable to their orders of
last night. I Sent out two men to the village of barking Squirels with
direcitions to kill Some of them. they after 2 hours returned and
informed me that not one of those Squirels were to be Seen out of their
holes. the Skins of the party which they had been dressing Since
yesterday being now completely dressed I derected all loose baggage to
be put on board the Canoes and at 10 A.M. Set out and proceeded on
passed the white river at 12 oClock and halted below the enterance of
Shannons Creek where we were joined by Labeech Shannon and Willard,
they had killed 2 common der but no Mule deer or antilopes. Willard
informed me that he Saw 2 antilopes but Could not get near to them.
Willard and Labiech waded white river a fiew miles above its enterance
and inform me that they found it 2 feet water and 200 yards wide. the
water of this river at this time nearly as white as milk. put Drewyer
out to hunt on the S W. Side and proceeded on below the round Island
and landed on the N. E. Side I with Several of the men went out in
pursute of Buffalow. the men killed 2 Bulls near me they were very por
I assended to the high Country and from an eminance, I had a view of
the plains for a great distance. from this eminance I had a view of a
greater number of buffalow than I had ever Seen before at one time. I
must have Seen near 20,000 of those animals feeding on this plain. I
have observed that in the country between the nations which are at war
with each other the greatest numbers of wild animals are to be found-
on my return to the river I killed 2 young deer. after Dinner we
proceeded down the river about 3 mile to the Camp of Jo. & Rubin fields
and Collins, and encamped on the S W. Side a little below our
encampment of 13th Septr. 1804, haveing made 20 Miles only. neither of
the hunters killed either a Black tail deer or an antilope. Jo. Fields
& Shields each killed a porcupin and two others of the hunters Killed
Deer, Drewyer did not join us untill 10 P.M. he informed that he Saw
some antilopes and Mule deer but Could kill none of them. Jo. Field
informed that he wounded female of the Mule deer a little below our
Camp late in the evening and could not prosue her I directed him to Set
out with 3 others and follow the Deer and get her if possible early in
the morning.
[Clark, August 30, 1806]
Saturday 30th of August 1806
Capt. Lewis is mending Slowly. we set out at the usial hour and
proceeded on very well a fiew miles Jo Field who was on the Shore being
behind I derected one of the Small Canoes with R. Fields & Shannon to
continue on the point of a Sand bar untill he corns up. I took 3
hunters and walked on the N E Shore with a view to kill Some fat meet.
we had not proceeded far before Saw a large plumb orchd of the most
deelicious plumbs, out of this orchard 2 large Buck Elks ran the
hunters killed them. I Stoped the Canoes and brought in the flesh which
was fat and fine. here the party Collected as many plumbs as they could
eate and Several pecks of which they put by &c. after a delay of nearly
2 hours we again proceeded on downwards passed 3 Small Islands and as
we were about to land at the place appointed to wait for the 2 fields
and Shannon, I saw Several men on horseback which with the help of a
Spie glass I found to be Indians on the high hills to the N E we landed
on the S. W. Side and I sent out two men to a village of Barking
Squirels to kill Some of those animals imedeatily after landing about
20 indians was discovered on an eminanc a little above us on the
opposite Side. one of those men I took to be a freinch man from his a
blanket Capoe & a handkerchief around his head. imediately after 80 or
90 Indian men all armed with fusees & Bows & arrows Came out of a wood
on the opposite bank about 1/4 of a mile below us. they fired of their
guns as a Salute we returned the Salute with 2 rounds. we were at a
loss to deturmin of what nation those indians were. from their hostile
appearance we were apprehensive they were Tetons. but from the Country
through which they roved we were willing to believe them eithe the
Yanktons, Ponars or Mahars either of which nations are well disposed
towards the white people. I deturmined to find out who they were
without running any resque of the party and indians, and therefore took
three french men who could Speak the Mahar Pania and some Seioux and in
a Small canoe I went over to a Sand bar which extended Sufficently near
the opposite Shore to Converse. imedeately after I Set out 3 young men
Set out from the opposite Side and Swam next me on the Sand bar. I
derected the men to Speak to them in the Pania and mahar Languages
first neither of which they could understand I then derected the man
who could Speak a fiew words of Seioux to inquire what nation or tribe
they belong to they informed me that they were Tetons and their Chief
was Tar-tack-kah-sabbar or the black buffalow This Chief I knew very
well to be the one we had seen with his band at Teton river which band
had attempted to detain us in the fall of 1804 as we assended this
river and with whome we wer near comeing to blows. I told those Indians
that they had been deef to our councils and ill treated us as we
assended this river two years past, that they had abused all the whites
who had visited them since. I believed them to be bad people & Should
not Suffer them to cross to the Side on which the party lay, and
directed them to return with their band to their Camp, that if any of
them come near our camp we Should kill them certainly. I lef them on
the bear and returned to th party and examined the arms &c. those
indians seeing Some Corn in the Canoe requested Some of it which I
refused being deturmined to have nothing to do with those people.
Several others Swam across one of which understood pania, and as our
pania interpreter was a very good one we had it in our power to inform
what we wished. I told this man to inform his nation that we had not
forgot their treatment to us as we passed up this river &c. that they
had treated all the white people who had visited them very badly; robed
them of their goods, and had wounded one man whome I had Seen. we
viewed them as bad people and no more traders would be Suffered to come
to them, and whenever the white people wished to visit the nations
above they would Come Sufficiently Strong to whip any vilenous party
who dare to oppose them and words to the Same purpote. I also told them
that I was informed that a part of all their bands were gorn to war
against the Mandans &c, and that they would be well whiped as the
Mandans & Menetarres & had a plenty of Guns Powder and ball, and we had
given them a Cannon to defend themselves. and derected them to return
from the Sand bar and inform their Chiefs what we had Said to them, and
to keep away from the river or we Should kill every one of them &c. &c.
those fellows requested to be allowed to Come across and make Cumerads
which we positively refused and I directed them to return imediately
which they did and after they had informed the Chiefs &c. as I Suppose
what we had Said to them, they all Set out on their return to their
Camps back of a high hill. 7 of them halted on the top of the hill and
blackguarded us, told us to come across and they would kill us all &c.
of which we took no notice. we all this time were extreamly anxious for
the arival of the 2 fields & Shannon whome we had left behind, and were
Some what consd. as to their Safty. to our great joy those men hove in
Sight at 6 P.M. Jo. Fields had killed 3 black tail or mule deer. we
then Set out, as I wished to See what those Indians on the hill would
act. we Steared across near the opposit Shore, this notion put them
Some agitation as to our intentions, some Set out on the direction
towards their Camps others walked about on the top of the hill and one
man walked down the hill to meet us and invited us to land to which
invitation I paid no kind of attention. this man I knew to be the one
who had in the fall 1804 accompaned us 2 days and is Said to be the
friend to the white people. after we passd. him he returned on the top
of the hill and gave 3 Strokes with the gun he had in his hand this I
am informed is a great oath among the indians. we proceeded on down
about 6 miles and encamped on a large Sand bar in the middle of the
river about 2 miles above our encampment on Mud Island on the 10th
Septr. 1804 haveing made 22 miles only to Day. Saw Several Indians on
the hills at a distance this evening viewing us. our encampment of this
evening was a very disagreable one, bleak exposed to the winds, and the
Sand wet. I pitched on this Situation to prevent being disturbed by
those Scioux in the Course of the night as well as to avoid the
Musquetors-. Killed 9 whistleing squirels.
[Clark, August 31, 1806]
Saturday 31st August 1806
all wet and disagreeable this morning. at half past 11 last night the
wind Shifted about to the N. W. and it began to rain with hard Claps of
thunder and lightning the Clouds passd over and the wind Shifted about
to the S W. & blew with great violence So much So that all hands were
obliged to hold the Canoes & Perogue to prevent their being blown off
from the Sand bar, however a Suden Squal of wind broke the cables of
the two Small Canoes and with Some dificuelty they were got to Shore
Soon after the 2 Canoes in which Sergt. Pryor and the indians go in
broke loose with wiser and Willard in them and were blown quite across
the river to the N E. Shore where fortunately they arived Safe, I Sent
Sergt. Jo Ordway with a Small perogue and 6 men to prosue the 2 Canoes
and assist them in effecting a landing, those 2 Canoes being tied
together 2 men could not manage them, the wind Slackened a little and
by 2 A.M. Sergt Ordway with willard wiser and the 2 Canoes returned all
Safe, the wind continud to blow and it rained untill day light all wet
and disagreeable. all the party examind their arms and put them in
order and we Set out and proceeded on down. Saw Several Indians on the
hills untill we passed the Island of Cedar 9 A. M the morning Cloudy
and wind down the the river at 4 P.M. passed the doome and lowest
village of Barking Squirels. this is also the highest up the river
where I observed the fox Squirel in the bottom above the doome on N. E
Side I killed 2 fox Squirels. we Saw no game of any kind to day as the
banks as usial. the Sun Shone with a number of flying Clouds. we
encamped on the N. E. Side a little below our Encampment of the 5th of
Septr. on no preserve Island haveing Come 70 Miles.
Part III: Journal Entries of August 1806
- Details
- Written by: Meriwether Lewis and and William Clark
- Category: The Journals of Lewis and Clark 1804-1806