[Lewis, March 1, 1806]
Saturday March 1st 1806.
This morning Sergt. Gass and a party set out in quest of the Elk which
had been killed by the hunters the day before yesterday. they returned
with the flesh of three of them late in the evening. Thompson was left
with the hunters in order to jurk and take care of the flesh of the
remaining two. Kuskelar and wife left us about noon. he had a good
looking boy of about 10 years of age with him who he informed us was
his slave. this boy had been taken prisoner by the Killamucks from some
nation on the Coast to the S. East of them at a great distance. like
other Indian nations they adopt their slaves in their families and
treat them very much as their own children. Reubin Fields and Collins
who have been absent since yesterday morning returned without having
killed any game. The birds of the Western side of the Rocky Mountain to
the Pacific Ocean, for convenience I shall divide into two classes,
which I shal designate from the habits of the birds, Terrestrial and
Aquatic.
The Grouse or Prarie hen is peculiarly the inhabitant of the Grait
Plains of Columbia they do not differ from those of the upper portion
of the Missouri, the tail of which is pointed or the feathers in it's
center much longer than those on the sides. this Species differs
essentially in the construction of this part of their plumage from
those of the Illinois which have their tails composed of fathers of
equal length. in the winter season this bird is booted even to the
first joint of it's toes. the toes are also curiously bordered on their
lower edges with narrow hard scales which are placed very close to each
other and extend horizontally about 1/8 of an inch on each side of the
toes thus adding to the width of the tread which nature seems
bountifully to have furnished them at this season for passing over the
snow with more ease. in the summer season those scales fall off. They
have four toes on each foot. Their colour is a mixture of dark brown
redish and yellowish brown and white confusedly mixed in which the
redish brown prevails most on the upper parts of the body wings and
tail and the white underneath the belley and lower parts of the breast
and tail. they associate in large flocks in autumn & winter and are
frequently found in flocks of from five to six even in summer. They
feed on grass, insects, the leaves of various shrubs in the plains and
on the seeds of several species of spelts and wild rye which grow in
the richer parts of the plains. in winter their food is the buds of the
willow & Cottonwood also the most of the native berries furnish them
with food.The Indians of this neighbourhood eat the root of the Cattail
or Cooper's flag. it is pleasantly taisted and appears to be very
nutricious. the inner part of the root which is eaten without any
previous preperation is composed of a number of capillary white
flexable strong fibers among which is a mealy or starch like substance
which readily desolves in the mouth and separate from the fibers which
are then rejected. it appears to me that this substance would make
excellent starch; nothing can be of a purer white than it is.-
[Clark, March 1, 1806]
Saturday March the 1st 1806
This morning we despatched Sergt. Gass with 12 men in two Canoes in
quest of the Elk which had been killed by the hunters the day before
yesterday. they returned with the flesh of three of them late in the
evening. Thompson was left with the hunters in order to jurk and take
care of the flesh of the remaining two. Kuskalar &c. left us about
noon. The boy which this Indian offered to Sell to me is about 10 years
of age. this boy had been taken prisoner by the Kit a mox from Some
Nation on the Coast to the S. East of them at a great distance. like
other Indian nations they adopt their Slaves in their famelies and
treat them very much like their own Children. Reuben Field and Collins
who had been absent Since yesterday morning returned without killing
any thing.
The birds on the western Side of the Rocky Mountain's to the Pacific
Ocian for Convenience I Shall devide into from the habit of the birds,
Terrestrial and Aquatic. i e Fowls of the air, and fowls of the water.
The Prarie Hen sometimes called the Grouse is peculiarly the inhabitent
of the Great Plains of Columbia. they do not differ from those of the
upper portion of the Missouri, the tails of which is pointed or the
feathers in its center much longer than those on the Sides. this
Species differ assentially in the construction of this part of their
plumage from those of the Illinois which have their tail composed of
feathers of equal length. in the winter Season this berd is booted even
to the first joint of it's toes. the toes are also curiously bordered
on their lower edges with narrow hard scales which are placed very
close to each other and extend horizontally about 1/8 of an inch on
each Side of the toe, thus adding to the width of the tread which
nature Seams bountifully to have furnished them with at this Season for
passing over the Snow with more ease. in the Summer Season those Scales
fall off. they have four toes on each foot. their colour is a mixture
of dark brown redish and yellowish brown and white confusedly mixed in
which the redish brown prevails most on the upper parts of the body
wings and tail. and the white underneath the belley and lower parts of
the breast and tail. they associate in large flocks in autumn & winter
and are frequently found in flocks of from five to Six even in Summer.
They feed on grass, insects, the leaves of various Shrubs in the
Praries, and on the Seeds of Several Species of Spelts and wild rye
which grow in the richer parts of the Plains. in the winter their food
is the buds of the willow and Cottonwood also the most of the native
berries furnish them with food. they cohabit in flock & the Cocks fight
verry much at those Seasons.
[Lewis, March 2, 1806]
Sunday March 2cd
The diet of the sick is so inferior that they recover their strength
but slowly. none of them are now sick but all in a state of
convalessence with keen appetites and nothing to eat except lean Elk
meat. late this evening Drewyer arrived with a most acceptable supply
of fat Sturgeon, fresh Anchovies and a bag containing about a bushel of
Wappetoe. we feasted on Anchovies and Wappetoe.
The Cock of the Plains is found in the plains of Columbia and are in
Great abundance from the entrance of the S. E. fork of the Columbia to
that of Clark's river. this bird is about 2/3rds the size of a turkey.
the beak is large short curved and convex. the upper exceeding the
lower chap. the nostrils are large and the beak black. the colour is an
uniform mixture of dark brown reather bordeing on a dove colour, redish
and yellowish brown with some small black specks. in this mixture the
dark brown prevails and has a slight cast of the dove colour at a
little distance. the wider side of the large feathers of the wings are
of a dark brown only. the tail is composed of 19 feathers of which that
in the center is the longest, and the remaining 9 on each side deminish
by pairs as they receede from the center; that is any one feather is
equal in length to one equa distant from the center of the tail on the
oposite side. the tail when foalded comes to a very sharp point and
appears long in proportion to the body. in the act of flying the tail
resembles that of a wild pigeon. tho the motion of the wings is much
that of the pheasant and Grouse. they have four toes on each foot of
which the hinder one is short. the leg is covered with feathers about
half the distance between the knee and foot. when the wing is expanded
there are wide opening between it's feathers the plumeage being so
narrow that it dose not extend from one quill to the other. the wings
are also proportionably short, reather more so than those of the
pheasant or grouse. the habits of this bird are much the same as those
of the grouse. only that the food of this fowl is almost entirely that
of the leaf and buds of the pulpy leafed thorn; nor do I ever recollect
seeing this bird but in the neighbourhood of that shrub. they sometimes
feed on the prickley pear. the gizzard of it is large and much less
compressed and muscular than in most fowls; in short it resembles a maw
quite as much as a gizzard. when they fly they make a cackling noise
something like the dunghill fowl. the following is a likeness of the
head and beak. the flesh of the cock of the Plains is dark, and only
tolerable in point of flavor. I do not think it as good as either the
Pheasant or Grouse.--it is invariably found in the plains.The feathers
about it's head are pointed and stif some hairs about the base of the
beak. feathers short fine and stif about the ears.
[Clark, March 2, 1806]
Sunday March 2nd 1806
The diet of the Sick is So inferior that they recover their Strength
but Slowly. none of them are now Sick but all in a State of
Covelessence with keen appetites and nothing to eate except lean Elk
meat.
The nativs of this neighbourhood eate the root of the Cattail or
Cooper's flag. it is pleasantly tasted and appears to be very
nutrecious. the inner part of the root which is eaten without any
previous preperation is Composed of a number of capellary white
flexable Strong fibers among which is a mealy or Starch like Substance
which readily disolves in the mouth and Seperates from the fibers which
are then rejected. it appears to me that this Substance would make
excellent Starch; nothing Can be of a pureer white than it is
This evening late Drewyer, Crusat & Wiser returned with a most
acceptable Supply of fat Sturgen, fresh anchoves and a bag Containing
about a bushel of Wappato. we feasted on the Anchovies and wappatoe.-.
The Heath Cock or cock of the Plains is found in the Plains of Columbia
and are in great abundance from the enterance of Lewis's river to the
mountains which pass the Columbia between the Great falls and Rapids of
that river. this fowl is about 3/4ths the Size of a turkey. the beak is
large Short Curved and convex. the upper exceeding the lower chap. the
nostrils are large and the back black. the Colour is a uniform mixture
of dark brown reather bordering on a dove colour, redish and yellowish
brown with Some Small black Specks. in this mixture the dark brown
provails and has a Slight cast of the dove colour at a little distance.
the wider side of the larger feathers of the wings are of a dark brown
only. the tail is composed of 19 feathers of which that in the center
is the longest, and the remaining 9 on each Side deminish by pairs as
they receede from the Center; that is any one feather is equal in
length to one of an equal distance from the Center of the tail on the
opposit Side. the tail when folded Comes to a very Sharp point and
appears long in perpotion to the body in the act of flying the tail
resembles that of a wild pigeon. tho the motion of the wings is much
that of the Pheasant and Grouse. they have four toes on each foot of
which the hinder one is Short. the leg is covered with feathers about
half the distance between the knee and foot. when the wings is expanded
there are wide opening between it's feathers, the plumage being So
narrow that it does not extend from one quill to another. the wings are
also propotionably Short, reather more So than those of the Pheasant or
Grouse. the habits of this bird is much the Same as those of the Prarie
hen or Grouse. only that the food of this fowl is almost entirely that
of the leaf and buds of the pulpy leafed thorn, nor do I ever recollect
Seeing this bird but in the neighbourhood of that Shrub. The gizzard of
it is large and much less compressed and muscular than in most fowls,
in Short it resembles a maw quite as much as a gizzard. When they fly
they make a cackling noise Something like the dunghill fowl. the flesh
of this fowl is dark and only tolerable in point of flavour. I do not
think it as good as wth the Pheasant or Prarie hen, or Grouse. the
feathers above it's head are pointed and Stiff Some hairs about the
base of the beak. feathers Short fine and Stiff about the ears, and
eye. This is a faint likeness of the Cock of the plains or Heath Cock
the first of those fowls which we met with was on the Missouri below
and in the neighbourhood of the Rocky Mountains and from to the
mountain which passes the Columbia between the Great falls and Rapids
they go in large gangues or Singularly and hide remarkably close when
pursued, make Short flights, &c.
The large Black & White Pheasant is peculiar to that portion of the
Rocky Mountains watered by the Columbia River. at least we did not See
them untill we reached the waters of that river, nor Since we have left
those mountains. they are about the Size of a well grown hen. the
contour of the bird is much that of the redish brown Pheasant common to
our country. the tail is proportionably as long and is composed of 18
feathers of equal length, of a uniform dark brown tiped with black. the
feathers of the body are of a dark brown black and white. the black is
that which most prodomonates, and white feathers are irregularly
intermixed with those of the black and dark brown on every part but in
greater perpotion about the neck breast and belly. this mixture gives
it very much the appearance of that kind of dunghill fowl, which the
henwives of our Countrey Call dommanicker. in the brest of Some of
those birds the white prodominates most. they are not furnished with
tufts of long feathers on the neck as other Pheasants are, but have a
Space on each Side of the neck about 21/2 inches long and one inch in
width on which no feathers grow, tho it is consealed by the feathers
which are inserted on the hinder and front part of the neck, this Space
Seams to Serve them to dilate or contract the feathers of the neck with
more ease. the eye is dark, the beak black, uncovered Somewhat pointed
and the upper exceeds the under chap. they have a narrow Strip of
vermillion colour above each eye which consists of a fleshey Substance
not protuberant but uneaven, with a number of minute rounded dots. it
has four toes on each foot of which three are in front, it is booted to
the toes. it feeds on wild fruits, particularly the berry of the
Sac-a-com-mis, and much also on the Seed of the pine & fir. this fowl
is usially found in Small numbers two and three & 4 together on the
ground. when Supprised flies up & lights on a tree and is easily Shot
their flesh is Superior to most of the Pheasant Species which we have
met with. they have a gizzard as other Pheasants &c. feed also on the
buds of the Small Huckleberry bushes
[Lewis, March 3, 1806]
Monday March 3rd 1806.
Two of our perogues have been lately injured very much in consequence
of the tide leaving them partially on shore. they split by this means
with their own weight. we had them drawn out on shore. our
convalessents are slowly on the recovery. Lapage is taken sick, gave
him a doze of Scots pills which did not operate. no movement of the
party today worthy of notice. every thing moves on in the old way and
we are counting the days which seperate us from the 1st of April and
which bind us to fort Clatsop.--The large black and white pheasant is
peculiar to that portion of the Rocky Mountain watered by the Columbia
river. at least we did not see them in these mountains until I we
reached the waters of that river nor since we have left those
mountains. they are about the size of a well grown hen. the contour of
the bird is much that of the redish brown pheasant common to our
country. the tail is proportionably as long and is composed of eighteen
feathers of equal length, of an uniform dark brown tiped with black.
the feathers of the body are of a dark brown black and white. the black
is that which most predominates, and white feathers are irregularly
intermixed with those of the black and dark brown on every part, but in
greater proportion about the neck breast and belley. this mixture gives
it very much the appearance of that kind of dunghill fowl which the
hen-wives of our country call dom-manicker. in the brest of some of
these birds the white predominates most. they are not furnished with
tufts of long feathers on the neck as our pheasants are, but have a
space on each side of the neck about 21/2 inches long and 1 In. in
width on which no feathers grow, tho tis concealed by the feathers
which are inserted on the hinder and front part of the neck; this space
seems to surve them to dilate or contract the feathers of the neck with
more ease. the eye is dark, the beak black, curved somewhat pointed and
the upper exceeds the under chap. they have a narrow stripe of
vermillion colour above each eye which consists of a fleshey substance
not protuberant but uneven with a number of minute rounded dots. it has
four toes on each foot of which three are in front. it is booted to the
toes. it feeds on wild fruits, particularly the berry of the
sac-a-commis, and much also on the seed of the pine and fir.
The small speckled pheasant found in the same country with that above
discribed, differs from it only in point of size and somewhat in
colour. it is scarcely half the size of the other; ascociates in much
larger flocks and is very gentle. the black is more predominant and the
dark bron feathers less frequent in this than the larger species. the
mixture of white is also more general on every part of this bird. it is
considerably smaller than our pheasant and the body reather more round.
in other particulars they differ not at all from the large black and
white pheasant. this by way of distinction I have called the speckled
pheasant. the flesh of both these species of party coloured phesants is
of a dark colour and with the means we had of cooking them not very
well flavored.
The small brown pheasant is an inhabitant of the same country and is of
the size and shape of the specled pheasant which it also resembles in
it's economy and habits. the stripe above the eye in this species is
scarcely perceptable, and is when closely examined of a yellow or
orrange colour instead of the vermillion of the outhers. it's colour is
an uniform mixture of dark and yellowish brown with a slight mixture of
brownish white on the breast belley and the feathers underneath the
tail. the whol compound is not unlike that of the common quail only
darker. this is also booted to the toes. the flesh of this is
preferable to either of the others and that of the breast is as white
as the pheasant of the Atlantic coast.the redish brown pheasant has
been previously discribed.--The Crow raven and Large Blackbird are the
same as those of our country only that the crow is here much smaller
yet it's note is the same. I observe no difference either between the
hawks of this coast and those of the Atlantic. I have observed the
large brown hawk, the small or sparrow hawk, and the hawk of an
intermediate size with a long tail and blewish coloured wings
remarkably swift in flight and very firce. sometimes called in the U
States the hen hawk. these birds seem to be common to every part of
this country, and the hawks crows & ravens build their nests in great
numbers along the high and inaccessable clifts of the Columbia river
and it's S. E. branch where we passed along them.--we also met with the
large hooting Owl under the Rocky mountain on the Kooskoskee river. it
did not appear to differ materially from those of our country. I think
it's colours reather deeper and brighter than with us, particularly the
redish brown. it is the same size and form.
[Clark, March 3, 1806]
Monday March 3rd 1806
Two of our Canoes have been lately injured very much in consequence of
the tide leaveing them partially on Shore. they Split by this means
with their own weight. we had them drawn out on Shore. our
convalessents are Slowly on the recovery. La page is taken Sick. gave
him Some of Scotts Pills which did not opperate. no movement of the
party to day worthey of notice. every thing moves on in the old way and
we are Counting the days which Seperate us from the 1st of April, &
which bind us to Fort Clatsop.-.-.
The Small Speckled Pheasant found in the Rocky Mountains, and differ
from the large black and white pheasant only in point of Size, and
Somewhat in colour. it is scercely half the Size of the other;
assosiates in much larger flocks and is also very gentle. the black is
more predominate and the dark brown feathers less frequent in this than
the larger Species. the mixture of white is also more general on every
part of this bird. it is considerably Smaller than our Pheasant and the
body reather more round. in other particulars they differ not at all,
from the large black and white Pheasant. this by way of distinction I
have called the Speckled Pheasant. the flesh of both these Species of
party coloured Pheasant is of a dark colour, and with the means we had
of cooking them were only tolerably flavoured tho these birds would be
fine well cooked.
The small Brown Pheasant is an inhabitant of the Same Country and is of
the Size and Shape of the Speckled Pheasant, which it also resembles in
it's economy and habits, the Stripe above the eye in this Species is
scercely preceptable and is when closely examined of a yellow or
orrange colour in Sted of the vermillion of the others. it's colour is
of a uniform mixture of dark and yellowish brown with a Slight mixture
of brownish white on the breast belley and the feathers under the tail.
the whole Compound is not unlike that of the Common quaile only darker.
this is also booted to the toes. the flesh is tolerable and that of the
breast is as white as the Pheasant of the atlantic coast. the redish
brown Pheasant has been previously discribed.-.
The Crow Ravin and large Blackbird are the Same as those of our
Country, only that the Crow here is much Smaller, yet its note is the
Same. I observe no difference between the Hawk of this Coast and those
of the Atlantic. I have observed the large brown Hawk, the Small or
Sparrow hawk, and a hawk of an intermediate Size with a long tail and
blewish coloured wings, remarkably Swift in flight and very ferce.
Sometimes called in the Un. States the hen Hawk. those birds Seam to be
common to every part of this Country in greater or smaller numbers, and
the Hawks, Crows, and ravins build their nests in great numbers along
the high & inaxcessable clifts of the Columbia, and Lewis's rivers when
we passd along them. we also met with the large hooting Owl under the
Rocky mountains on the Kooskooske R. it's Colour reather deeper than
with us, but differ in no other respect from those of the U States.
[Lewis, March 4, 1806]
Tuesday March 4th 1806.
Not any occurrence today worthy of notice. we live sumptuously on our
wappetoe and Sturgeon. the Anchovey is so delicate that they soon
become tainted unless pickled or smoked. the natives run a small stick
through their gills and hang them in the smoke of their lodges, or
kindle a small fire under them for the purpose of drying them. they
need no previous preperation of guting &c and will cure in 24 hours.
the natives do not appear to be very scrupelous about eating them when
a little feated.--the fresh sturgeon they keep for many days by
immersing it in water. they coock their sturgeon by means of vapor or
steam. the process is as follows. a brisk fire is kindled on which a
parcel of stones are lad. when the fire birns down and the stones are
sufficiently heated, the stones are so arranged as to form a tolerable
level surface, the sturgeon which had been previously cut into large
fletches is now laid on the hot stones; a parsel of small boughs of
bushes is next laid on and a second course of the sturgeon thus
repating alternate layers of sturgeon and boughs untill the whole is
put on which they design to cook. it is next covered closely with matts
and water is poared in such manner as to run in among the hot stones
and the vapor arrising being confined by the mats, cooks the fish. the
whole process is performed in an hour, and the sturgeon thus cooked is
much better than either boiled or roasted.
The turtle dove and robbin are the same of our country and are found as
well in the plain as open country. the Columbian robbin heretofore
discribed seems to be the inhabitant of the woody country exclusively.
the Magpy is most commonly found in the open country and are the same
with those formerly discribed on the Missouri. the large woodpecker or
log cock, the lark woodpeckers and the small white woodpecker with a
read head are the same with those of the Atlantic states and are found
exclusively in the timbered country. The blue crested Corvus and the
small white breasted do have been previously discribed and are the
natives of a piney country invariably, being found as well on the rocky
mountains as on this coast.--the lark is found in the plains only and
are the same with those before mentioned on the Missouri, and not very
unlike what is called in Virginia the old field lark.--The large
bluefish brown or sandhill Crain are found in the valley of the Rocky
mountains in Summer and Autumn where they raise their young, and in the
winter and begining of spring on this river below tidewater and on this
coast. they are the same as those common to the Southern and Western
States where they are most generally known by the name of the Sandhill
crain. The vulture has also been discribed. there are two species of
the flycatch, a small redish brown species with a short tail, round
body, short neck and short pointed beak. they have some fine black
specks intermixed with the uniform redish brown. this the same with
that which remains all winter in Virginia where it is sometimes called
the wren. the second species has lately returned and dose not remain
here all winter. it's colours are a yellowish brown on the back head
neck wings and tail the breast and belley of a yellowish white; the
tail is in proportion as the wren but it is a size smaller than that
bird. it's beak is streight pointed convex reather lage at the base and
the chaps of equal length. the first species is the smallest, in short
it is the smalest bird that I have ever seen in America except the
humming bird. both these species are found in the woody country only or
at least I have never seen them elsewhere.
[Clark, March 4, 1806]
Tuesday March 4th 1806
Not any accurrance to day worthy of notice. we live Sumptiously on our
wappatoe and Sturgeon. the Anchovey is so delicate that they Soon
become tainted unless pickled or Smoked. the nativs run a Small Stick
through their gills and hang them in the Smoke of their Lodges, or
Kindle Small fires under them for the purpose of drying them. they need
no previous preperation of gutting &c. and will Cure in 24 hours. the
nativs do not appear to be very Scrupilous about eating them a little
feated.
the fresh sturgeon they Keep maney days by immersing it in water. they
Cook their Sturgeon by means of vapor or Steam. the process is as
follows. a brisk fire is kindled on which a parcel of Stones are
Sufficiently heated, the Stones are So arranged as to form a tolerable
leavel Surface, the Sturgeon which had been previously cut into large
flaetches is now laid on the hot Stones; a parcel of Small boughs of
bushes is next laid on, and a Second course of the Sturgeon thus
repeating alternate layers of Sturgeon & boughs untill the whole is put
on which they design to Cook. it is next covered closely with mats and
water is poared in Such manner as to run in among the hot Stones, and
the vapor arriseing being confind by the mats, cooks the fish. the
whole process is performd in an hour and the Sturgeon thus Cooked is
much better than either boiled or roasted. in their usial way of
bolting of other fish in baskets with hot Stones is not so good.
The turtle doves and robin are the Same of those of our countrey and
are found as well as the plains as open countrey. the Columbia robin
heretofore discribed Seams to be the inhabitent of the woody Country
exclusively. the magpye is most commonly found in the open Country and
are the Same with those formerly discribed on the Missouri.
The large wood pecker or log cock the lark woodpecker and the common
wood pecker with a red head are the Same with those of the Atlantic
States, and are found exclusively in the timbered Country. The Blue
crested Corvus and the Small white brested corvus are the nativs of a
piney country invariably, being found as well on the Rocky Mountains as
on this coast-. The lark is found in the plains only and are the Same
with those on the Missouri and the Illinois and not unlike what is
Called in Virginia the old field Lark.
The large bluish brown or Sandhill Crain are found in the Vally's of
the Rocky Mountain in Summer and autumn when they raise their young and
in the winter and beginning of Spring on this river below tide water
and on this coast. they are the Same as those Common to the Southern
and Western States where they are most generally known by the name of
the Sand hill Crain. The Vulture has already been discribed.
There are two Species of fly Catch, a Small redish brown with a Short
tail, round body, Short neck, and Short pointed beak, and the Same as
that with us sometimes called the Wren. the 2d Species does not remain
all winter they have just returned and are of a Yellowish brown Colour.
[Lewis, March 5, 1806]
Wednesday March 5th 1806.
This morning we were visited by two parties of Clatsops. they brought
some fish a hat and some skins for sale most of which we purchased.
they returned to their village in the evening. late in the evening the
hunters returned from the kil-haw-a-nack-kle River which discharges
itself into the head of the bay. They had neither killed nor seen any
Elk. they informed us that the Elk had all gone off to the mountains a
considerable distance from us. this is unwelcome information and
reather allarming we have only 2 days provision on hand, and that
nearly spoiled. we made up a small assortment of articles to trade with
the Indians and directed Sergt. Pryor to set out early in the morning
in a canoe with 2 men, to ascend the Columbia to the resort of the
Indian fishermen and purchase some fish; we also directed two parties
of hunters to renew the Chase tomorrow early. the one up the Netul and
the other towards Point Adams. if we find that the Elk have left us, we
have determined to ascend the river slowly and indeavour to procure
subsistence on the way, consuming the Month of March in the woody
country. earlyer than April we conceive it a folly to attempt the open
plains where we know there is no fuel except a few small dry shrubs. we
shall not leave our quarters at fort Clatsop untill the first of April,
as we intended unless the want of subsistence compels us to that
measure. The common snipe of the marshes and the small sand snipe are
the same of those common to the Atlantic Coast tho the former are by no
means as abundant here. the prarrow of the woody country is also
similar to ours but not abundant. those of the plains of Columbia are
the same with those of the Missouri, tho they are by no means so
abundant. I have not seen the little singing lark or the large brown
Curloo so common to the plains of the Missouri, but I beleive that the
latter is an inhabitant of this country during summer from Indian
information. I have no doubt but what many species of birds found here
in Autumn and Summer had departed before our arrival.
[Clark, March 5, 1806]
Wednesday March 5th 1806.
This morning we were visited by two parties of Clatsops they brought
Some fish, a hat and Some Skins for Sale most of which we purchased,
they returned to their Village in the evening with the returning tide.
late in the evening the Hunters returned from the Kil-haw-d nack-kle
River which discharges itself into the head of the Bay. They had
neither killed nor Seen any Elk. they informed us that the Elk had all
gorn off to the mountains a considerable distance from us. this is
unwelcom information and reather alarming. we have only two days
provisions on hand and that nearly Spoiled. we made up a Small
assortment of Articles to trade with the Indians, and directed Sergt
Natl. Pryor to Set out early in the morning in a canoe with two men, to
assend the Columbia to the resort of the Indians fishermen and purchase
Some fish; we also derected two parties of hunters to renew the chase
tomorrow early. the one up the Netul, and the other towards point
Adams. If we find that the Elk have left us, we have determined to
assend the river slowly and endeaver to precure Subsistance on the way,
Consumeing the month of March in the woody Country, earlyer than april
we conceive it a folly to attempt the Open plains where we know there
is no fuel except a fiew Small dry Shrubs. we Shall not leave our
quarters at Fort Clatsop untill the 1st of April as we intended, unless
the want of Subsistance compels us to that measure.
The common Snipe of the marshes and the Small sand snipe are the same
of those Common to the atlantic coast tho the former are by no means as
abundant here.
The Sparrow of the woody country is also Similar to ours but not
abundant. those of the plains of Columbia are the Same with those of
the Missouri. tho they are by no means So Abundant. I have not Seen the
little Singing lark or the large brown Curloe So Common to the Plains
of the Missouri. but believe the Curloe is an inhabitent of this
Countrey dureing Summer from Indian information and their attemps to
mimick the notes of this fowl. I have no doubt but what maney Species
of birds found here in autumn and Summer had departed before our
arrival.
The Aquatic Birds of this country or such as obtain their Subsistence
from the water, are the large blue and brown heron, fishing Hawk, blue
crested fisher, Gulls of Several Species of the Coast, the large grey
Gull of the Columbia, Comorant, loons of two Species, white and the
brown brant, Small and large Geese, small and large Swans, the
Duckinmallard, canvis back Duck, red headed fishing Duck, black and
white duck, little brown Duck, Black Duck, two Species of Divers, blue
winged teal, 14 and Some other Species of Ducks, two Species of Plevers.
The hunters who were out last informed me that they discovered a very
Considerable fall in the Kit-haw-a-nack-kle River on its main western
fork at which place it falls abt. 100 feet from the Side of a mountain
S. E. about 6 miles from Fort Clatsop and nearly 15 from its enterance
into the bay by the Meanderings of this river a high mountain is
Situated S 60° W. about 18 miles from Fort Clatsop on which there has
been Snow Since Nov.
[Lewis, March 6, 1806]
Thursday March 6th 1806.
This morning the fishing and hunting parties set out agreeably to their
instructions given them last evening. at 11 A.M. we were visited by
Comowoll and two of his children. he presented us with some Anchovies
which had been well cured in their manner. we foud them excellent. they
were very acceptable particularly at this moment. we gave the old man
some small articles in return. this we have found much the most
friendly and decent savage that we have met with in this neighbourhood.
Hall had his foot and ankle much injured yesterday by the fall of a
large stick of timber; the bones were fortunately not broken and I
expect he will be able to walk again shortly. Bratton is now weaker
than any of the convalessants, all of whom recover slowly in
consequence of the want of proper diet, which we have it not in our
power to procure.-
The Aquatic birds of this country, or such as obtain their subsistence
from the water, are the large blue and brown heron, fishing hawk, blue
crested fisher, gulls of several species of the Coast, the large grey
gull of the Columbia, Cormorant, loons of two species, white, and the
brown brant, small and large geese, small and large Swan, the
Duckinmallard, canvis back duck, red headed fishing duck, black and
white duck, little brown duck, black duck, two speceis of divers, blue
winged teal, and some other speceis of ducks.
[Clark, March 6, 1806]
Thursday March 6th 1806
This morning, the fishing and hunting party's Set out agreeably to
their instructions given them last evening. At 11 a.m. we were visited
by Commowoll and two boys Sons of his. he presented us with Some
Anchovies which had been well Cured in their manner, we found them
excellent. they were very acceptable perticularly at this moment. we
gave the old mans Sones a twisted wire to ware about his neck, and I
gave him a par of old glovs which he was much pleased with. this we
have found much the most friendly and decent Indian that we have met
with in this neighbourhood.
Hall had his foot and ankle much injured yesterday by the fall of a log
which he had on his Sholder; the bones are fortunately not broken, I
expect he will be able to walk again Shortly. Bratten is now weaker
than any of the convalessants, and complains verry much of his back,
all of them recovering Slowly in consequence of the want of proper
diet, which we have it not in our power to precure.
The large Blue and brown Herons or crains as they are usialy called in
the U States are found below tide water. they are the Same of those of
the U, States. The Fishing Hawk with the Crown of the head white, and
back of a milkey white, and the blue crested or king fisher are found
on every part of the Columbia and its water Along which we passed and
are the Same with those of the U, States. the fishing hawk is not
abundant, particularly in the mountains. There are 4 Species of the
larus or gull on this coast and river. 1st a Small Species the Size of
a Pegion; white except some black spots about the head and the little
bone on the but of the wing. 2d a Species Somewhat larger of a light
brown colour, with a mealy coloured back. 3rd the large Grey Gull, or
white larus with a greyish brown back, and light grey belly and breast,
about the Size of a well grown pullet, the wings are remarkably long in
perpotion to the Size of the body and it's under chap towards the
extremity is gibbous and protuberant than in either of the other
Species. a White Gull about the Size of the Second with a remarkable
beak; adjoining the head and on the base of the upper Chap there is an
elivated orning of the Same Substance with the beak which forms the
nostriels at A; it is Somewhat in this form. the feet are webed and the
legs and feet of a yellow colour. the form of the wings body &c are
much that of the 2d Species this bird was Seen on Haleys bay.
The large Grey Gull is found on the Columbian waters as high as the
enterence of the Koos koos ke and in common with the other Species on
the coast; the others appear confined to the tidewater, and the 4th
Species not So common as either of the others. The Comorant is a large
black duck which feeds on fish; I proceive no difference between it &
these found in the rivers of the Atlantic Coasts. we met with as high
up the river as the enterance of the Chopunnish into the Kooskooske
river. they increased in numbers as we decended, and formed much the
Greatest portion of waterfowls which we saw on the Columbia untill we
reached tidewater, where they also abound but do not bear a Similar
proportion to the fowls found in this quarter. we found this bird fat
and tolerably flavoured as we decended the Columbia.
[Lewis, March 7, 1806]
Friday March 7th 1806.
The wind was so high that Comowol did not leave us untill late this
evening. Labuish and Drewyer returned at sunset having killed one Elk
only. they report that there are some scattering male Elk in the
neighbourhood of the place they killed this one or about 5 miles up the
Netul on this side.--Bratton is much wose today, he complains of a
violent pain in the small of his back and is unable in consequence to
set up. we gave him one of our flanel shirts, applyed a bandage of
flannel to the part and bathed and rubed it well with some vollatile
linniment which I prepared with sperits of wine, camphor, castile soap
and a little laudinum. he felt himself better in the evening.--the
large blue and brown herons, or Crams as they are usually called in the
U States are found on this river below tidewater. they are the same
with those of the U States. the fishing hawk with the crown of the head
White and back of a mealy white, and the blue crested or King fisher
are found on every part of the Columbia and it's waters and are the
same with those of the U States. the fishing hawk is not abundant
particularly in the mountains. there are four speceis of larus or gull
on this coast and river, 1st a small speceis about the size of a
pigeon; white except some black spots about the head and a little brown
on the but of the wings, 2nd a speceis somewhat larger of a light brown
colour with a whitish or mealy coloured back. 3rd the large grey gull,
or white larus with a greyish brown back and a light grey belley and
breast, about the size of a well grown pullet or reather larger. the
wings are remarkably long in proportion to the size of the body and
it's under chap towards the extremity is more gibbous and protuberant
than in either of the other speceis. 4th a white gull about the size of
the second with a remarkable beak; adjoining the head and at the base
of the uper Chap there is an elivated orning of the same substance with
the beak which forms the nostrils; it is some what in this forma the
feet are webbed and the legs and feet of a yellow colour. the form of
the wings body &c are much that of the second species. the large grey
gull is found on the river as high as the entrance of the Kooskooske
and in common with the other speceis on the coast; the others appear to
be confined to tidewater; and the fourth speceis not so common as
either of the others. the cormorant is a large black duck which feeds
on fish; I perceive no difference between it and those found in the
Potomac and other rivers on the Atlantic Coast. tho I do not recollect
seeing those on the atlantic so high up the rivers as those are found
here. we first met with them on the Kooskooske at the entrance of
Chopunnish river. they increased in quantity as we decended, and formed
much the greatest portion of the waterfowl which we saw on the Columbia
untill we reached tidewater where they also abound but do not bear a
similar proportion to the other fowls found in this quarter.
There are two speceis of loons. 1st the Speckled loon found on every
part of the rivers of this country. they are the same size colours and
form with those of the Atlantic coast. the second speceis we first met
with at the great falls of the Columbia and from thence down. this bird
is not more than half the size of the speckled loon, it's neck is long,
slender and white in front. the Colour of the body and back of the neck
and head are of a dun or ash colour, the breast and belley are white.
the beak is like that of the speckled loon and like them it cannot fly
but flutters along on the top of the warter or dives for security when
pursued.
[Clark, March 7, 1806]
Friday March 7th 1806
The wind was So high that Comowol did not leave us untill late this
evening. Drewyer & Labiesh returned at Sunset haveing killed one Elk
only. they report that there are Some Scattering mail Elk in the
neighbourhood of the place they killed this one or about 5 miles up the
Netul river on the west Side-. Bratten is much worst to day he
complains of a violent pain in the Small of his back, and is unable in
consequence of it to Set up. we gave him one of our flanel Shirts. I
applied a bandage of flanel to the part and rubed it well with Some
volatile linniment which was prepared with Sperits of wine, camphire,
Sastile Soap, and a little laudinum. he felt himself better in the
evening at which time I repeated the linnement and bathed his feet to
restore circulation which he complaind of in that part.
There are two Species of Loons. 1st the Speckled loon found on every
part of the rivers of this quarter, they are the Same Size Colour and
form with those of the Ohio, and atlantic coasts. the 2d Species we
first met with at the great falls of the Columbia and from thence down.
this bird is not more than half the Size of the Speckled loon, it's
neck is long, Slender and white in front. the colour of the body and
back of the neck and head are of a dun or ash Colour, the breast and
belly are white. the back is like that of the Speckled loon, and like
them it cannot fly, but flutters along on the top of the water or Dives
for Security when pursued.
John Shields Reubin Fields & Robert frasure measured 2 trees of the fur
kind one 37 feet around, appears sound, has but fiew limbs for 200 feet
it is East of the Netul abt 280 feet high.
[Lewis, March 8, 1806]
Saturday March 8th 1806.
Bratton is much better today, his back gives him but little pain.
Collins returned early in the morning and informed us that he had
killed three Elk about five miles distant on the edge of the prarie in
Point Adams. one of them fell in a deep pond of water and could not get
it, the other two he butcherd and secured. he saw two large herds of
Elk in that quarter. we sent Drewyer and Joseph Fields to hunt those
Elk. a party were also sent with Labuish for the flesh of the Elk which
Drewyer and himself had killed up the netul, they returned with it in
the evening. Shields, R. Fields and Frazier returned this evening from
the Kilhawanackkle unsuccessfull having seen no Elk. McNeal and
Goodrich having recovered from the Louis veneri I directed them to
desist from the uce of mercury. The white brant is very common in this
country particularly below tidewater where they remain in vast
quantities during the winter. they feed like the swan gees &c on the
grass roots and seeds which they find in the marshes. this bird is
about the size of the brown brant or a third less than the common
Canadian or wild goose. the head is proportionably with the goose
reather large; the beak also thicker shorter and of much the same form,
being of a yellowish white colour except the edges of the chaps, which
are frequently of a dark brown. the legs and feet are of the same form
of the goose and are of a redish white or pale flesh colour. the tail
is composed of sixteen feathers of equal length as those of the geese
and brown brant are and bears about the same proportion in point of
length. the eye is of a dark colour and nothing remarkable as to size.
the wings are rether longer compared with those of the goose but not as
much so as in the brown or pided brant. the colour of the plumage of
this bird is unifomly a pure white except the large feathers of the
extremities of the wings which are black. the large feathers of the 1st
joint of the wing next to the body are white. the note of this bird
differs essentially from that of the goose; it more resembles that of
the brown brant but is somewhat different. it is like the note of young
domestic goose which has not perfectly attained it's full note. the
flesh of this bird is exceedingly fine, preferable to either the goose
or pided brant.--The Brown or pided brant are much the same size and
form of the white only that their wings are considerably longer and
more pointed. the plumage of the upper part of the body neck head and
tail is much the colour of the canadian goose but reather darker in
consequence of som dark brown feathers which are distributed and
irregularly scattered throughout. they have not the white on the neck
and sides of the head as the goose has nor is the neck darker than the
body. like the goose there are some white feathers on the rump at the
joining of the tail. the beak is dark and the legs and feet also dark
with a greenish cast; the breast and belley are of a lighter colour
than the back and is also irregularly intermixed with dark brown and
black feathers which give it a pided appearance. the flesh of this bird
is dark and in my estimation reather better than that of the goose. the
habits of this bird are the same nearly with the goose and white brant
with this difference that they do not remain in this climate in such
numbers during the winter as the others, and that it sets out earlier
in the fall season on it's return to the south and arrives later in the
spring than the goose. I see no difference between this bird and that
called simply the brant, common to the lakes the Ohio and Mississippi
&c. The small goose of this country is reather less than the brant;
it's head and neck like the brant are reather larger than that of the
goose in proportion; their beak is also thicker and shorter. their
notes are more like those of our tame gees; in all other rispects they
are the same with the large goose with which, they so frequently
ascociate that it was some time after I first observed this goose
before I could determine whether it was a distinct speceis or not. I
have now no hesitation in declaring them a distinct speceis. the large
goose is the same of that common on the Atlantic coast, and known by
the appellation of the wild, or Canadian goose.
[Clark, March 8, 1806]
Saturday March 8th 1806
Bratten is much better this morning, his back givs him but little pain.
Collins returned early in the morning, and informed us that he had
killed three Elk about five miles distance on the edge of the prarie in
point Adams. one of them fell in a deep pond of water and he could not
git to it. the other two he butchered and Saved. he saw two large herds
of Elk in that quarter. we Sent Drewyer & Jos. Field to hunt these Elk,
a party was also Sent with Labiesh for the flesh of the Elk which
Drewyer and himself had killd up the Netul, they returned with it in
the evening. Shields, R. Field and Frasure returned this evening from
the Kilhawanackkle unsuccessfull haveing Seen no Elk. McNeal and
Goodrich haveing recovered from the Louis veneri I detected them to
desist from takeing the murcury or useing in future. willard is yet
complaining and is low Spirited.
The White Brant is very common in this country particularly below tide
water where they remain in vast quantities dureing the winter. they
feed like the Swan Goose &c. on the grass and roots & Seeds which they
find in the marshes this bird is a little larger than the brown brant
and a fourth less than the common wild or Canadian goose. the head is
proportionably with the goose reather large; the beak thicker Shorter
and of the Same form, being of a yellowish white colour except the
edges of the Chaps, which are frequently of a dark brown. the legs and
feet are of the Same form of the goose and are of a redish white or
pail flesh colour. the tail is composed of Sixteen feathers of equal
length as those of the geese and brown brant are, and bears about the
Same perpotion in point of length. the Eye is of a dark colour and
nothing remarkable as to Size. the wings are reather longer compared
with those of the goose, but not as much So as is the brown or pieded
brant. the colour of the plumage of this bird is uniformly a pure white
except the large feathers of the extremities of the wings which are
black. The large feathers of the 1st joint of the wing next to the body
are white. the note of this bird differs essentially from that of the
goose; it more resembles that of the brown brant but is Somewhat
different. it is like the note of a young domestic goose which has not
perfectly attained its full note. the flesh of this bird is exceedingly
fine, prefferable to either the goose or pieded brant. the neck is
Shorter in prpotion than that of the goose.
The Brown or pieded brant are nearly the Size and much the Same form of
the white brante only that their wings are considerably longer and more
pointed. the plumage of the upper part of the body, neck, head and tail
is much the Colour of the Common or Canadian Goose but rather darker in
consequence of Some dark brown feathers which are distributed and
irregularly scattered throughout. they have not the white on the neck
and Sides of the head as the goose has nor is the neck darker than the
body. like the goose there are Some white feathers on the rump at the
junction of the tail. the beak, legs and feet are dark, with a greenish
cast; the breast and belly are of a lighter colour than the back and is
also intermixed, irregularly, with dark brown and black feathers which
gives it a pieded appearance. the flesh of this bird is dark, and in my
estimation reather better than that of the goose. the habits of this
bird is nearly the same with the goose and white brant, with this
difference that they do not remain in this Climate in Such numbers
dureing the winter as the others. I See no difference between this bird
and that Called Simpilly the Brant Common to the Lakes and frequently
Seen on the Ohio and Mississippi in large flocks &c.
The Small Goose of this country is reather less than the Brant; it's
head and neck like the brant are reather larger than that of the goose
in purpotion; their beak is also thicker and Shorter. their notes are
more like those of our taim geese, in all other respect they are the
Same with the large Goose with which, they So frequently ascoiete, that
it was Some time after I first observed this goose before I could
whether it was a distinct Speces or not. I have no hesitation now in
declareing them a distinct Species. the large Goose is the Same as that
common to the Ohio, and atlantic coast, and known by the appellation of
the wild, or Canadian Goose.
[Lewis, March 9, 1806]
Sunday March 9th 1806. This morning the men set out at daylight to go
in gust of the Elk which Collins had killed, they returned with it at
eleven A.M. Bratton complains of his back being very painfull to him
today; I conceive this pain to be something of the rheumatism. we still
apply the linniment and flannel; in the evening he was much better.
Drewyer and Joseph Fields returned not having found any Elk. Sergt.
Pryor and the fishing party not yet arrived, suppose they are detained
by the winds. visited by 3 Clatsop men who brought a dog some fish and
a Sea Otter skin for sale. we suffered them to remain all night. we set
Shields at work to make some sacks of Elk skin to contain various
articles. The large Swan is precisely the same common to the Atlantic
States. the small swan differs only from the larger one in size and
it's note. it is about one fourth less and it's note entirely
different. the latter cannot be justly immetated by the sound of
letters nor do I know any sounds with which a comparison would be
pertinent. it begins with a kind of whistleing sound and terminates in
a round full note which is reather louder than the whistleing, or
former part; this note is as loud as that of the large swan. from the
peculiar whistleing of the note of this bird I have called it the
whistleing swan it's habits colour and contour appear to be precisely
those of the large Swan. we first saw them below the great narrows of
the Columbia near the Chilluckkittequaw nation. They are very abundant
in this neighbourhood and have remained with us all winter. in number
they are fully five for one of the large speceis. The duckinmallard or
common large duck wich resembles the domestic duck are the same here
with those of the U Sts. they are abundant and are found on every part
of the river below the mountains. they remain here all winter but I
beleive they do not continue during winter far above tidewater. a
beautifull duck and one of the most delicious in the world is found in
considerable quantities in this neighbourhood during the Autumn and
winter. this is the same with that known in the Delliware,
Susquehannah, and Potomac by the name of the Canvisback and in James
River by that of shell-Drake; in the latter river; however I am
informed that they have latterly almost entirely disappeared. to the
epicure of those parts of the union where this duck abounds nothing
need be added in praise of the exqusite flavor of this duck. I have
frequently eaten of them in several parts of the Union and I think
those of the Columbia equally as delicious. this duck is never found
above tide-water; we did not meet with them untill after we reached the
marshey Islands; and I beleive that they have already left this
neighbourhood, but whether they have gone northwardly or Southwardly I
am unable to determin; nor do I know in what part of the Continent they
raise their young.--The read headed fishing duck is common to every
part of the river and are found as well in the Rocky Mountains as
elsewhere; in short this was the only duck we saw on the waters of the
Columbia within the mountains. they feed principally on crawfish and
are the same in every rispect as those on the rivers in the mountains
of the Atlantic Ocean.
[Clark, March 9, 1806]
Sunday Mach 9th 1806
This morning the men Set out at day light to go in quest of the Elk
which Collins had killed, they returned at 11 A.M. Bratten complains of
his backs being very painfull to him to day. we Still apply the
linnement & flannel; in the evening he was much better. Jos. Field &
Drewyer returned not haveing found any Elk. Sergt. Pryor and the
fishing party not yet returned, Suppose they are detained by the winds.
we are visited by 3 Clatsop men who brought a Dog, Some fish and a Sea
otter Skin for Sale. we Suffered them to remain all night. we Set
Shields at work to make Some Sacks of Elk Skin to contain my papers,
and various articles which we wish kept Dry.
The large Swan is precisely the Same Common to the Missouri,
Mississippi and the Atlantic States &c. The Small Swan differ only from
the large one in Size and it's note. it is about 1/4th less, and its
notes entirely different. the latter cannot be justly immetated by the
Sound of letters nor do I know any Sound with which a comparison would
be perti-nent. it begins with a kind of whistling Sound and terminates
in a round full note which is reather louder than the whistling, or
former part; this note is as loud as that of the large Swan. from the
peculiar whistling of the note of this bird I have Called it the
Whistleing Swan. it's habits colour and contour appear to be precisely
those of the large swan. we first saw them below the great narrows of
the Columbia near the Chilluckkittequaw Nation. they are very abundant
in this neighbourhood and have remained with us all winter. in number
they are fully five for one of the large Species of the Swan's.
The Duckinmallard are the Same here with those of the U, States. they
are abundant and are found on every part of the river below the
mountains. they remain here all winter, but I believe they do not
remain all winter above tide water.--a butifull Duck and one of the
most delicious in the world is found in Considerable quantities in this
neighbourhood dureing the Autumn and winter. this is the Same as that
known in the Dilliwar, Susquehannah and Potomac by the name of the
Canvisback and James River by that of Shell-Drake; in the latter river
I am informed that they have latterly almost entirely disapeared. the
epicures of those parts of the Union where those Ducks abound nothing
need be added in prais of the exquisit flavor of this duck. I have
eaten of them in Several parts of the Union and I think those of the
Columbia equally as delicious. this duck is never found above tide
water; we did not meat with them untill after we reached the marshey
Islands; and I believe that they have already left this neighbourhood;
but whether they are gorn Northerly or Southerly, I am unable to
deturmine; nor do I know in what part of the Country they rais their
young
The red headed fishing duck is common to every part of the river and
are found as well in the Rocky Mountains as elsewhere; in short this
was the only duck we Saw within the Mountain on the Columbian waters.
they feed principally on Crawfish; and are the Same in every respects
as those on the Ohio and rivers in the mountains of the atlantic Ocian.
The black and white Duck are Small about the Size of the blue-winged
teal, or reather larger. the mail is butifully varigated with black and
white. the white occupies the Side of the head, breast and back. black
the tail, large feathers of the wing, two tufts of feathers which cover
the upper part of the wings when folded, the neck and head. the female
is darker or has much less white about her. I take this to be the Same
Species of duck common to the ohio, as also the atlantic Coast, and
Sometimes called the butter box. the back is wide and Short, and as
well as the legs of a dark Colour. the flesh of this duck is verry well
flavored I think Superior to the Duckinmallard.
[Lewis, March 10, 1806]
Monday March 10th 1806.
About 1 P.M. it became fair and we sent out two parties of hunters on
this side of the Netul the one below and the other above. we also
directed a party to set out early in the morning and pass the bay and
hunt beyond the Kilhowanackkle. from the last we have considerable hope
as we have as yet hunted but little in that quarter. it blew hard all
day. in the evening the Indians departed. The hunters who were over the
Netull the other day informed us that they measured a pine tree, (or
fir No 1) which at the hight of a man's breast was 42 feet in the girth
about three feet higher, or as high as a tall man could reach, it was
40 feet in the girth which was about the circumpherence for at least
200 feet without a limb, and that it was very lofty above the
commencement of the limbs. from the appearance of other trees of this
speceis of fir and their account of this tree, I think it may be safely
estimated at 300 feet. it had every appearance of being perfectly
sound. The black and white duck are small abut the size of the
blue-winged teal, or reather larger. the male is beautifully variagated
with black and white. the white occupys the sides of the head, breast
and back, black, the tail feathers of the wings two tufts of feathers
which cover the upper part of the wings when foalded, the neck and
head. the female is darker or has much less white about her. I take
this to be the same speceis of duck common to the Atlantic coast, and
frequently called the butterbox. the beak is wide and short, and as
well as the legs, of a dark colour. the flesh of this duck is very well
flavored. the brown duck is much in form like the duckinmallard, tho
not much more than half it's size. the colour is an uniform mixture of
yellowish and dark brown. there is nothing remarkable in the appearance
of this duck it generally resorts the same kind of grassey marshes with
the duckinmallard and feeds in a similar manner, on grass seed, and
roots. both these ducks are common to the river for some distance above
tide water as well as below. The black duck is about the size of the
bluewinged teal. their colour is a duskey black the breast and belley
somewhat lighter than the other parts, or a dark brown. the legs stand
longitudinally with the body, and the bird when on shore stands of
cours very erect. the legs and feet are of a dark brown, the toes are
four on each foot, a short one at the heel and three long toes in
front, which are unconnected with a web. the webs are attatched to each
sides of the several joints of the toe, and divided by deep sinuses at
each joint. the web assuming in the intermediate part an eliptical
figure. the beak is about two inches long, streight, flated on the
sides, and tapering to a sharp point. the upper chap somewhat longest,
and bears on it's base at the joining of the head, a little conic
protuberance of a cartelagenous substace, being redish brown at the
point. the beak is of an ivory white colour. the eye dark. these ducks
usually associate in large flocks, and are very noisey; their note
being a sharp shrill whistle. they are usually fat and agreeably
flavored; and feed principally on moss, and other vegitable productions
of the water. we did not meet with them untill we reached tide-water,
but I beleive them not exclusively confined to that district at all
seasons, as I have noticed the same duck on many parts of the Rivers
Ohio and Mississippi. the gizzard and liver are also remarkably large
in this fowl. the divers are the same with those of the Atlantic
States. the smaller species has some white feathers about the rump with
no perceptable tail and is very active and cluck in it's motion; the
body is of a redish brown. the beak sharp and somewhat curved like that
of the pheasant. the toes are not connected but webed like those
discribed of the black duck. the larger speceis are about the size of
the teal and can flye a short distance which the small one scarcely
ever attapts. they have a short tail. their colour is also an uniform
brickredish brown, the beak is streight and pointed. the feet are of
the same form of the other speceis and the legs are remarkably thin and
flat one edge being in front. the food of both speceis is fish, and the
flesh unfit for uce. the bluewinged teal are a very excellent duck, and
are the same with those of the Atlantic coast.--There are some other
speceis of ducks which shall be hereafter discribed as I may hereafter
have an opportunity to examine them.
[Clark, March 10, 1806]
Monday March 10th 1806
about 1 P.M. it became fair and we Sent out two parties of hunters on
this Side of the Netul, one above and the other below, we also derected
a party to Set out early in the morning and pass Meriwethers Bay and
hunt beyond the Kilhow anak kle. from the last we have considerable
hope, as we have as yet hunted but little in that quarter. it blew hard
all day, in the evening the Indians departed. The Hunters, S. R. F. &
F. who were over the netul the other day informed us that they measured
a 2d tree of the fir Speces (No. i) as high as a man Could reach, was
39 feet in the girth; it tapered but very little for about 200 feet
without any Considerable limbs, and that it was a very lofty above the
Commmencement of the limbs. from the appearance of other Species of
fir, and their account of this tree, I think it might safely estimated
at 300 feet. it had every appearance of being perfectly Sound in every
part
The brown Duck is much in form like the Duckinmallard, tho not much
more than half it's Size. the colour is one uniform mixture of
yellowish and dark brown. there is nothing remarkable in the colour of
this duck; it resorts the Same kind of grassy marshes with the
Duckinmallard, and feeds in a Similar manner, on grass, Seeds & roots.
both these ducks are common to the river for Some distance above tide
water as well as below. The black Duck is about the Size of the
bluewinged teel. their colour is a duskey black the breast and belly
Somewhat lighter than the other parts, or a dark brown. the legs Stand
longitudianally with the body, and the Bird when on Shore Stands very
erect. the legs and feet are of a dark brown, the toes are four on each
foot, a short one on the heel and three long toes in front which are
unconnected with a web. the web is atached to each Side of the Several
joints of the toes, and devided by deep Sinuses at each joint. the web
assumeing in the intermediate part an elipticle figure. the beak is
about two inches long, Streight, flated on the Sides, and tapering to a
Sharp point. the upper chap Somewhat longest and bears on its base at
the joining of the head, a little conic protuberance of a cartelagenous
Substance, being redish brown. the beak is of a ivery white colour. the
eye dark. these ducks usially associate in large flocks, and are very
noisey; their note being a Sharp shrill whistle. they are usially fat
and tolerably flavoured; and feed on moss and other vegitable
productions of the water. we did not meet with them untill we reached
tide water, I have noticed the Same duck on maney parts of the ohio an
Mississippi. the Gizzard and liver are also remarkably large in this
fowl-. The Divers are the Same with those of the atlantic States. the
Smaller Species has some white feathers about the rump and no
perceptable tail and is very active and quick in its motion; the body
is of a redish brown. the beak sharp and Somewhat curved like that of
the Pheasant the toes are not connected but webd. like those discribed
of the black duck. The large Species are about the Size of the teal &c.
the food of both those Species is fish. and their flesh is unfit for
use.
The bluewinged teal are a very excellent duck, and are the Same with
those of the atlantic coast.--There are some other Species of ducks
which Shall be hereafter discribd. as I may hereafter have an
oppertunity of exameneing them.
[Lewis, March 11, 1806]
Tuesday March 11th 1806.
Early this morning Sergt. Pryor arrived with a small canoe loaded with
fish which he had obtained from the Cathlahmah's for a very small part
of the articles he had taken with him. the wind had prevented his going
to the fisery on the opposite side of the river above the Wackiacums,
and also as we had suspected, prevented his return as early as he would
otherwise have been back.--The dogs at the Cathlahmahs had bitten the
trong assunder which confined his canoe and she had gone a drift. he
borrowed a canoe from the Indians in which he has returned. he found
his canoe on the way and secured her, untill we return the Indians
their canoe, when she can be brought back. Sent Sergt. Gass and a party
in surch of a canoe which was reported to have been sunk in a small
creek on the opposite side of the Netul a few miles below us, where she
had been left by Shields R. Fields and Frazier when they were lately
sent out to hunt over the Netul. They returned and reported that they
could not find the canoe she had broken the cord by which she was
attatched, and had been carried off by the tide. Drewyer Joseph Fields
and Frazier set out by light this morning to pass the bay in order to
hunt as they had been directed the last evening. we once more live in
clover; Anchovies fresh Sturgeon and Wappetoe. the latter Sergt. Pryor
had also procured and brought with him. The reptiles of this country
are the rattlesnake garter snake and the common brown Lizzard. The
season was so far advanced when we arrived on this side of the rocky
mountains that but few rattlesnakes were seen I did not remark one
particularly myself, nor do I know whether they are of either of the
four speceis found in the different parts of the United states, or of
that species before mentioned peculiar to the upper parts of the
Missouri and it's branches. The garter snake so called in the United
States is very common in this country; they are found in great numbers
on the open and sometimes marshey grounds in this neighbourhood. they
differ not at all from those of the U States. the black or dark brown
lizzard we saw at the rock fort Camp at the commencement of the woody
country below the great narrows and falls of the Columbia; they are
also the same with those of the United States. The snail is numerous in
the woody country on this coast; they are in shape like those of the
United States, but are at least five times their bulk. There is a
speceis of water lizzard of which I saw one only just above the grand
rapids of the Columbia. it is about 9 inches long the body is reather
flat and about the size of a mans finger covered with a soft skin of a
dark brown colour with an uneven surface covered with little pimples
the neck and head are short, the latter terminating in an accute
angular point and flat. the fore feet each four toes, the hinder ones
five unconnected with a web and destitute of tallons. it's tail was
reather longer than the body and in form like that of the Musk-rat,
first rising in an arch higher than the back and decending lower than
the body at the extremity, and flated perpendicularly. the belley and
under part of the neck and head were of a brick red every other part of
the colour of the upper part of the body a dark brown. the mouth was
smooth, without teeth.
[Clark, March 11, 1806]
Tuesday March 11th 1806
Early this morning Sergt. Pryor arrived with a Small Canoe loaded with
fish which he had obtained from the Cath-lah-mah's for a very Small
part of the articles he had taken with him. the wind had prevented his
going to the fishery on the opposit Side of the river above the
Waukiecum's, and also as we had suspected, prevented his return as
early as he otherwise would have been back. The dogs of the
Cathlahmah's had bitten the throng assunder which confined his canoe
and she had gorn adrift. he borrowed a Canoe from the Indians in which
he has returned. he found his canoe on the way and Secured her, untill
we return the Indians their Canoe--Sent Sergt. Gass and a party in
Serch of one of our Canoes which was reported to have been lost from a
hunting party of Shields R. Field & Frazier when they were last out on
the opposit Side of the Netul. they returned and reported that they
Could not find the Canoe which had broken the Cord with which it was
attached, and was caried off by the tide. Drewyer Jo. Field & Frazier
Set out by light this morning to pass the bay in order to hunt as they
had been directed last evening. we once more live in Clover; Anchovies
fresh Sturgeon and Wappatoe. the latter Sergt. Pryor had also procured
a fiew and brought with him. The Deer of this Coust differ from the
Common Deer, fallow Deer or Mule Deer as has beformentiond.
The Mule Deer we have never found except in rough Country; they prefer
the Open Grounds and are Seldom found in the wood lands near the river;
when they are met with in the wood lands or river bottoms and pursued,
they imediately run to the hills or open country as the Elk do, the
Contrary happens with the common Deer. there are Several differences
between the mule and common deer as well as in form as in habits. they
are fully a third larger in general, and the male is particularly
large; think there is Somewhat greater disparity of Size between the
Male and the female of this Species than there is between the male and
female fallow Deer; I am Convinced I have Seen a Buck of this Species
twice the volume a Buck of the Common Deer. the Ears are peculiarly
large, I measured those of a large Buck which I found to be eleven
inches long and 31/2 in width at the widest part; they are not so
delicately formed, their hair in winter is thicker longer and of a much
darker grey, in Summer the hair is Still coarser longer and of a paler
red, more like that of the Elk; in winter they also have a Considerable
quantity of very fine wool intermixed with the hair and lying next to
the Skin as the Antelope has. the long hair which grows on the outer
Side of the first joint of the hind legs, and which in the Common Deer
do not usially occupy more than 2 inches in them occupy from 6 to 8;
their horns also differ, those in the Common deer consist of two main
beams gradually deminishing as the points proceed from it, with the
mule deer the horns consist of two beams which at the distance of 4 or
6 inches from the head divide themselves into two equal branches which
again either divide into two other equal branches or terminate in a
Smaller, and two equal ones; haveing either 2, 4 or 6 points on a beam;
the horn is not so rough about the base as the common deer, and are
invariably of a much darker Colour. the most Strikeing difference of
all, is the white rump and tail. from the root of the tail as a center
there is a circular Spot perfectly white of about 31/2 inches radius,
which occupy a part of the rump and the extremities of buttocks and
joins the white of the belley underneath; the tail which is usially
from 8 to 9 inches long for the first 4 or 5 inches from its upper
extremity is covered with Short white hairs, much Shorter indeed than
those hairs of the body; from hence for about one inch further, the
hair is Still white but gradually becoms longer; the tail then
termonates in a tissue of Black hair of about 3 inches long. from this
black hair of the tail they have obtained among the French engages the
appelation of the black tailed Deer, but this I conceive by no means
Characteristic of the Animal as much the larger portion of the tail is
white. the Ears and the tail of this Animale when Compared with those
of the Common Deer, So well Comported with those of the Mule when
compared with the Horse, that we have by way of distinction adapted the
appellation of the mule Deer which I think much more appropriate. on
the inner corner of each eye there is a drane (like the Elk) or large
recepticle which Seams to Answer as a drane to the eye which givs it
the appearance of weeping, this in the Common Deer of the Atlantic
States is scercely proceptable but becoms more Conspicious in the
fallow Deer, and Still more So in the Elk; this recepticle in the Elk
is larger than any of the Pecora order with which I am acquainted.
I have Some reasons to believe that the Calumet Eagle is Sometimes
found on this Side of the Rocky mountains from the information of the
Indians in whose possession I have Seen their plumage. those are the
Same with those of the Missouri, and are the most butifull of all the
family of the Eagle of America it's colours are black and white with
which it is butifully varigated. the feathers of the tail which is so
highly prized by the Indians is composed of twelve broad feathers of
equal length those are white except about two inches at the extremity
which is of a jut black. their wings have each a large circular white
Spot in the middle when extended. the body is variously marked with
white and black. the form is much that of the Common bald Eagle, but
they are reather Smaller and much more fleet. this Eagle is feared by
all carnivarous birds, and on his approach all leave the carcase
instantly on which they were feeding. it breads in the inaccessable
parts of the Mountains where it Spends the Summer, and decends to the
plains and low country in the fall and winter when it is usially Sought
and taken by the nativs. two tails of this bird is esteemed by Mandans,
Minnetares, Ricaras, &c. as the full value of a good horse, or Gun and
accoutrements. with the Osage & Kanzas and those nations enhabiting
Countrys where this bird is more rare, the price is even double of that
mentioned. with these feathers the nativs deckerate the Stems of their
Sacred pipes or Calumets; whence the name of Calumet Eagle, which has
Generally obtained among the Engages. The Ricaras have domesticated
this bird in many instances for the purpose of obtaining its plumage.
the nativs in every part of the Continent who can precure those
feathers attach them to their own hair and the mains and tail of their
favorite horses by way of orniment. they also deckerate their own caps
or bonnets with those feathers. The Leather winged bat is found &c.
[Lewis, March 12, 1806]
Wednesday March 12th 1806
We sent a party again in surch of the perogue but they returned
unsuccessful) as yesterday. Sent one hunter out on this side of the
Netul, he did not return this evening. I beleive the Callamet Eagle is
sometimes found on this side of the rocky mountains from the
information of the Indians in whose possession I have seen their
plumage. these are the same with those of the Missouri, and are the
most beautiful) of all the family of the Eagles of America. it's
colours are black and white with which it is beautifully variagated.
the feathers of the tail which are so highly prized by the Indians is
composed of twelve broad feathers of equal length. these are white
except about 2 inches at the extremity which is of a jut black. there
wings have each a large circular white spot in the middle when
extended. the body is variously marked with white and black. the form
is much that of the common bald Eagle, but they are reather smaller and
much more fleet. this eagle is feared by all carnivorous birds, and on
his approach all leave the carcase instantly on which they were
feeding. it breads in the inaccessable parts of the mountains where it
spends the summer, and decends to the plains and low country in the
fall and winter when it is usually sought and taken by the natives. two
tails of this bird is esteemed by the Mandans Minetares Ricares, &c as
the full value of a good horse, or gun and accoutrements. with the
Great and little Osages and those nations inhabiting countries where
this bird is more rare the price is even double of that mentioned. with
these feathers the natives decorate the stems of their sacred pipes or
callamets; whence the name, of Callamet Eagle, which has generally
obtained among the Engages. the Ricares have domesticated this bird in
many instancies for the purpose of obtaining it's plumage. the natives
in every part of the con tinent who can procure these feathers attatch
them to their own hair and the mains and tails of their favorite horses
by way of ornament. they also decorate their war caps or bonnets with
those feathers.--The leather winged batt common to the United States is
also found on this side of the Rocky mountains.--Beside the fish of
this coast and river already mentioned we have met with the following
speceis viz. the Whale, Porpus, Skaite, flounder, Salmon, red charr,
two speceis of Salmon trout, mountain or speckled trout, and a speceis
similar to one of those noticed on the Missouri within the mountains,
called in the Eastern states, bottle-nose. I have no doubt but there
are many other speceis of fish, which also exist in this quarter at
different seasons of the year, which we have not had an oportunity of
seeing. the shell fish are the Clam, perrewinkle, common mussle,
cockle, and a speceis with a circular flat shell. The Whale is
sometimes pursued harpooned and taken by the Indians of this coast; tho
I beleive it is much more frequently killed by runing fowl on the rocks
of the coast in violent storms and thrown on shore by the wind and
tide. in either case the Indians preseve and eat the blubber and oil as
has been before mentioned. the whalebone they also carefully preserve
for sale.--Our party are now furnished with 358 pair of Mockersons
exclusive of a good portion of dressed leather.-
[Clark, March 12, 1806]
Wednesday March 12th 1806
We Sent a party again in Serch of the Canoe but they returned
unsucksessfull as yesterday Sent one hunter out on this Side of the
Netul he did not return this evening. Our party are now furnished with
358 par of Mockersons exclusive of a good portion of Dressed leather,
they are also previded with Shirts Overalls Capoes of dressed Elk Skins
for the homeward journey.
Besides the fish of this Coast and river already mentioned we have met
with the following Species. viz. the Whale, Porpus, Skaite, flounder,
Salmon, red-carr, two Specis of Salmon trout, mountain or Speckled
trout, and a Speceis Similar to one of those noticed on the Missouri
within the mountains, called in the Eastern States, bottle nose. I have
no doubt but there are many other Species of fish which also exist in
this quarter at different Seasons of the year, which we have not had an
oppertunity of seeing. the Shell fish are the Clam, perriwinkle, common
Muscle, cockle, and a Species with a circular flat Shell.
The Whale is Sometimes pursued harpooned and taken by the Indians of
this Coast; tho I believe it is much more frequently killed by running
on the rocks of the Coast to S. S. W. in violent Storms, and thrown on
different parts of the Coast by the winds and tide-. in either case the
Indians preserve and eat the blubber and Oil as has been before
mentioned. the whale bone they also carefully preserve for Sale.
The Reptiles of this Country are the rattle snake, garter Snake a
common brown Lizzard. The Season was so far advanced on this side of
the Rocky Mountains that but fiew rattle Snakes were Seen, I did not
remark one particularly my Self, nor do I know if they are of either of
the four Species found in different parts of the United States, or of
that Species before observed only on the upper parts of the Missouri &
its branches.
The Garter Snake So Called in the U States is very common in this
country, they are found in great numbers on the open and Sometimes
marshy grounds in this neighbourhood. they differ not at all from those
of the United States. the Black or Dark brown Lizzard we Saw at the
long narrows or Commencement of the woody country on the Columbia; they
are also the Same with those of the U, States. The Snail is noumerous
in the woodey Country on this Coast, they are in Shape like those of
the U, States, but are at least five times their bulk. there is a
Specis of water Lizzard of which I only Saw one just above the grand
rapid of the Columbia. it is about 9 inches long the body is reather
flat and about the Size of a mans finger, covered with a Soft Skin of
dark brown Colour with an uneaven sufice covered with little pimples,
the neck and head are Short, the latter termonateing in an accute
angular point and flat. the fore feet each have four toes, the hinder
ones five unconnected with a web and destitute of tallons. it's tail
was reather longer than the body, and in form like that of the muskrat,
first riseing in an arch higher than the back, and decending lower than
the body at the extremety, and flated perpindicularly. the belly and
under part of the neck and head were of a Brick red every other part of
the colour of the upper part of the body are dark brown. the mouth was
Smooth without teeth.
The horns of Some of the Elk have not yet fallen off and those of
others have Grown to the length of Six inches. the latter are in the
best order, from which it would Seem that the pore Elk retain their
horns longer.
[Lewis, March 13, 1806]
Thursday March 13th 1806.
This morning Drewyer Jos Feilds and Frazier returned; they had killed
two Elk and two deer. visited by two Cathlahmahs who left us in the
evening. we sent Drewyer down to the Clatsop village to purchase a
couple of their canoes if possible. Sergt. Pryor and a party made
another surch for the lost peroge but was unsuccessfull; while engaged
in surching for the perogue Collins one of his party killed two Elk
near the Netul below us. we sent Sergt. Ordway and a party for the
flesh of one of the Elk beyond the bay with which they returned in the
evening. the other Elk and two deer were at some distance. R. Fields
and Thompson who set out yesterday morning on a hunting excurtion
towards point Adams have not yet returned. The horns of some of the Elk
have not yet fallen off, and those of others have shotten out to the
length of six inches. the latter are in the best order, from which it
would seem that the poor Elk retain their horns longest.
The Porpus is common on this coast and as far up the river as the water
is brackish. the Indians sometimes gig them and always eat the flesh of
this fish when they can procure it; to me the flavor is disagreeable.
the Skaite is also common to the salt water, we have seen several of
them that had perished and were thrown out on the beach by the tide.
The flounder is also an inhabitant of the salt water, we have seen them
also on the beach where they had been left by the tide. the Indians eat
the latter and esteem it very fine. these several speceis are the same
with those of the Atlantic coast. the common Salmon and red Charr are
the inhabitants of both the sea and rivers. the former is usually
largest and weighs from 5 to 15 lbs. it is this speceis that extends
itself into all the rivers and little creeks on this side of the
Continent, and to which the natives are so much indebted for their
subsistence. the body of this fish is from 21/2 to 3 feet long and
proportionably broad. it is covered with imbricated scales of a
moderate size and is variegated with irregular black spots on it's
sides and gills. the eye is large and the iris of a silvery colour the
pupil black. the rostrum or nose extends beyond the under jaw, and both
the upper and lower jaws are armed with a single series of long teeth
which are subulate and infleted near the extremities of the jaws where
they are also more closely arranged. they have some sharp teeth of
smaller size and same shape placed on the tongue which is thick and
fleshey. the fins of the back are two; the first is plaised nearer the
head than the ventral fins and has ____ rays, the second is placed far
back near the tail is small and has no rays. the flesh of this fish is
when in order of a deep flesh coloured red and every shade from that to
an orrange yellow, and when very meager almost white. the roes of this
fish are much esteemed by the natives who dry them in the sun and
preserve them for a great length of time. they are about the size of a
small pea nearly transparent and of a redish yellow colour. they
resemble very much at a little distance the common currants of our
gardens but are more yellow. this fish is sometimes red along the sides
and belley near the gills particularly the male. The red Charr are
reather broader in proportion to their length than the common salmon,
the skales are also imbricated but reather large. the nostrum exceeds
the lower jaw more and the teeth are neither as large nor so numerous
as those of the salmon. some of them are almost entirely red on the
belley and sides; others are much more white than the salmon and none
of them are variagated with the dark spots which make the body of the
other. their flesh roes and every other particular with rispect to
their form is that of the Salmon. this fish we did not see untill we
decended below the grat falls of the Columbia; but whether they are
exclusively confined to this portion of the river or not at all
seasons, I am unable to determine.
[Clark, March 13, 1806]
Thursday March 13th 1806.
This morning Drewyer Jos. Fields and Frazer returned; they had killed
two Elk and two deer. Visited by two Cath-lah-mars who left us in the
evening. we Sent Drewyer down to the Clatsop Village to purchase a
couple of their canoes if possible. Sergt. Pryor and a party made
another Serch for the lost Canoe but was unsucksessfull; while engaged
in Serching for the Canoe, Collins one of his party killed two Elk near
the Netul below us. we Sent Sergt. Ordway and a party for the flesh of
one of the Elk beyond the Bay with which they returned in the evening;
the other Elk and 2 Deer were at Some distance--R. Field and Thompson
who Set out on a hunting excursion yesterday morning towards point
Adams have not yet returned. took equal altitudes to day this being the
only fair day for Sometime past.
The Porpus is common on this coast and as far up the river as the water
is brackish. the Indians Sometimes gig them and always eat the flesh of
this fish when they Can precure it; to me the flavour is disagreeable.
the Skaite is also common to the Salt water, I have Seen Several of
them that had perished and were thrown out on the beach by the tide.
The flounder is also an enhabitent of the Salt water. we have Seen them
also on the beach where they had been left by the tide. the nativs eate
the latter and esteem it very fine. these Several Species are the Same
of those of the atlantic Coasts. The Common Salmon and red charr are
the inhabitents of both the Sea and river. the former is usially
largest and weighs from 5 to 15 lbs. it is this Species that extends
itself into all the rivers and little creek on this Side of the
Continent, and to which the nativs are So much indebted for their
Subsistence. the body of this fish is from 21/2 to 3 feet long and
perpotionably broad. it is covered with imbricated scales of a moderate
Size and is varigated with errigular black Spots on its Side and gills.
the eye is large and the iris of a Silvery colour the pupil black. the
rostrum or nose extend beyond the under jaws, and both the upper and
the lower jaw are armed with a Single Series of long teeth which are
Subulate and infleted near the extremities of the jaws where they are
more closely arranged. they have Some Sharp teeth of Smaller Size and
Same Shape on the tongue which is thick and fleshey. the fins of the
back are two; the first is placed nearer the head than the Venteral
fins and has ____ rays, the Second is placed far back near the tail is
small and has no rays. The flesh of this fish when in order of a deep
flesh coloured red and every Shade from that to an orrange yellow, and
when very meager almost white. the Roe of this fish are much esteemed
by the nativs, who dry them in the Sun and preserve them for a great
length of time. they are about the Size of a Small pea nearly
transparrent and of a redish yellow colour. they resemble very much at
a little distance the Common Current of our gardens but are more
yellow. this fish is Sometimes red along the Sides and belly near the
gills; particularly the male of this Species.
The Red Charr are reather broader in proportion to their length than
the Common Salmon, the Skales are also embricated but reather large.
the nostrum exceeds the lower jaw more and the teeth are neither So
noumerous or large as those of the Salmon. Some of them are almost
entirely red on the belly and Sides; others are much more white than
the Salmon, and none of them are varigated with the dark Spots which
mark the body of the other. their flesh roe and every other particular
with respect to their is that of the Salmon. this fish we did not See
untill we had decended below the Great falls of the Columbia; but
whether they are exclusively confined to this portion of the river or
not at all Seasons, I am unable to determine.
The Salmon Trout are Seldom more than two feet in length, they are
narrow in purportion to their length, at least much more So than the
Salmon & red charr. their jaws are nearly of the Same length, and are
furnished with a Single Series of Subulate Streight teeth, not so long
or so large as those of the Salmon, the mouth is wide, and the tongue
is also furnished with Some teeth. the fins are placed much like those
of the Salmon. at the Great Falls are met with this fish of a Silvery
white colour on the belly and Sides, and a blueish light brown on the
back and head. in this neighbourhood we have met with another Species
which does not differ from the other in any particular except in point
of Colour. this last is of a dark colour on the back, and its Sides and
belley are yellow with transverse Stripes of dark brown. Sometimes a
little red is intermixed with these Colours on the belly and Sides
towards the head. the flesh & roe is like those described of the
Salmon. the white Species which we found below the falls were in
excellent order when the Salmon were entirely out of Season and not fit
for use. The Species which we found here early in november on our
arival in this quarter had declined considerably, reather more so than
the Red charr with which we found them asociated in the little
riverlets and creeks. I think it may be Safely asserted that the Red
Charr and both Species of the Salmon trout remain in Season longer in
the fall of the year than the common Salmon; but I have my doubt
whether of the Species of the Salmon trout ever pass the Great falls of
the Columbia. The Indians tell us that the Salmon begin to run early in
the next month; it will be unfortunate for us if they do not, for they
must form our principal dependance for food in assending the Columbia
above the Falls and it's S. E. branch Lewis's river to the Mountains.
The Speckled or Mountain Trout are found in the waters of the Columbia
within the Rocky mountains. they are the Same of those found in the
upper part of the Missouri, but are not So abundent in the Columbian
Waters as in that river. The bottle nose is also found on the waters of
the Columbia within the mountains.
[Lewis, March 14, 1806]
Friday March 14th 1806.
This morning we sent a party after the two Elk which Collins killed
last evening, they returned with them about noon. Collins, Jos. Fends
and Shannon went in quest of the flock of Elk of which Collins had
killed those two. this evening we heared upwards of twenty shot, and
expect that they have fallen in with and killed a number of them.
Reubin Fields and Thompson returned this evening unsuccessfull having
killed one brant only. late in the evening Drewyer arrived with a party
of the Clatsops who brought an indifferent canoe some hats and roots
for sale. the hats and roots we purchased, but could not obtain the
canoe without giving more than our stock of merchandize would lisence
us. I offered him my laced uniform coat but he would not exchange. The
Salmon Trout are seldom more than two feet in length they are narrow in
proportion to their length, at least much more so than the Salmon or
red charr. the jaws are nearly of the same length, and are furnished
with a single series of small subulate streight teeth, not so long or
as large as those of the Salmon. the mouth is wide, and the tongue is
also furnished with some teeth. the fins are placed much like those of
the salmon. at the great falls we met with this fish of a silvery white
colour on the belley and sides, and a bluish light brown on the back
and head. in this neighbourhood we have met with another speceis which
dose not differ from the other in any particular except in point of
colour. this last is of a dark colour on the back, and it's sides and
belley are yellow with transverse stripes of dark brown. sometimes a
little red is intermixed with these colours on the belley and sides
towards the head. the eye, flesh, and roes are like those discribed of
the Salmon. the white speceis which we found below the falls was in
excellent order when the salmon were entirely out of season and not fit
for uce. the speceis which we found here on our arrival early in
November had declined considerably, reather more so inded than the red
Charr with which we found them ascociated in the little rivulets and
creeks. I think it may be safely asserted that the red Charr and both
speceis of the salmon trout remain in season longer in the fall of the
year than the common Salmon; but I have my doubts whether either of
them ever pass the great falls of the Columbia. The Indians tell us
that the Salmon begin to run early in the next month; it will be
unfortunate for us if they do not, for they must form our principal
dependence for food in ascending the Columbia, above the falls and it's
S. E. branch to the mountains. The mountain or speckled trout are found
in the waters of the Columbia within the mountains. they are the same
of those found in the upper part of the Missouri, but are not so
abundant in the Columbia as on that river. we never saw this fish below
the mountains but from the transparency and coldness of the Kooskooske
I should not doubt it's existing in that stream as low as it's junction
with the S E. branch of the Columbia.--The bottle nose is the same with
that before mentioned on the Missouri and is found exclusively within
the mountains.
[Clark, March 14, 1806]
Friday March 14th 1806
This morning we dispatched a party after two Elk which Collins killed
last evening, they returned with them about noon. Jos. Field, Collins,
Go. Shannon & Labiesh went in quest of the Gang of Elk out of which
Collins had killed the 2 yesterday. this evening we herd upwards of
twenty Shot and expect they have fallen in with and killed Several of
them. Reuben Field and Thompson returned this evening unsuksessfull
haveing killed only one Brant. late in the evening Geo. Drewyer arrived
with a party of the Clatsops who brought an indifferent Canoe, three
hats and Some roots for Sale we could not purchase the Canoe without
giveing more than our Stock of merchandize would lisence us. Capt Lewis
offered his laced uniform Coat for a verry indiferent Canoe, agreeable
to their usial way of tradeing his price was double. we are informed by
the Clatsops that they have latterly Seen an Indian from the
Quin-na-chart Nation who reside Six days march to the N. W and that
four vessles were there and the owners Mr. Haley, Moore, Callamon &
Swipeton were tradeing with that noumerous nation, whale bone Oile and
Skins of various discription.
[Lewis, March 15, 1806]
Saturday March 15th 1806.
This morning at 11 OCk. the hunters arrived, having killed four Elk
only. Labuish it seems was the only hunter who fell in with the Elk and
having by some accedent lost the fore sight of his gun shot a great
number of times but killed only the number mentioned. as the elk were
scattered we sent two parties for them, they returned in the evening
with four skins and the flesh of three Elk, that of one of them having
become putrid from the liver and pluck having been carelessly left in
the animal all night. we were visited this afternoon by Delashshelwilt
a Chinnook Chief his wife and six women of his nation which the old
baud his wife had brought for market. this was the same party that had
communicated the venerial to so many of our party in November last, and
of which they have finally recovered. I therefore gave the men a
particular charge with rispect to them which they promised me to
observe. late this evening we were also visited by Catel a Clatsop man
and his family. he brought a canoe and a Sea Otter Skin for sale
neither of which we purchased this evening. The Clatsops who had
brought a canoe for sale last evening left us early this morning.-
Bratton still sick.
There is a third speceis of brant in the neighbourhood of this place
which is about the size and much the form of the pided brant. they
weigh about 81/2 lbs. the wings are not as long nor so pointed as those
of the common pided brant. the following is a likeness of it's head and
beak. a little distance around the base of the beak is white and is
suddonly succeeded by a narrow line of dark brown. the ballance of the
neck, head, back, wings, and tail all except the tips of the feathers
are of the bluish brown of the common wild goose. the breast and belly
are white with an irregular mixture of black feathers which give that
part a pided appearance. from the legs back underneath the tail, and
arond the junction of the same with the body above, the feathers are
white. the tail is composed of 18 feathers; the longest of which are in
the center and measure 6 Inches with the barrel of the quill; those
sides of the tail are something shorter and bend with their extremeties
inwards towards the center of the tail. the extremities of these
feathers are white. the beak is of a light flesh colour. the legs and
feet which do not differ in structure from those of the goose or brant
of the other speceis, are of an orrange yellow colour. the eye is
small; the iris is a dark yellowish brown, and pupil black. the note of
this brant is much that of the common pided brant from which in fact
they are not to be distinguished at a distance, but they certainly are
a distinct speis of brant. the flesh of this fowl is as good as that of
the common pided brant. they not remain here during the winter in such
numbers as the white brant do, tho they have now returned in
considerable quantities. first saw them below tide-water.
[Clark, March 15, 1806]
Saturday March 15th 1806
This morning at 11 oClock the hunters arived, haveing Killed four Elk
only. Labiesh it Seams was the only Hunter who fell in with the Elk and
haveing by some accident lost the foresight of his gun Shot a great
number of times and only killed four. as the Elk were scattered we Sent
two parties for them, they return in the evening with four Skins, and
the flesh of three Elk, that of one of them haveing become putred from
the liver and pluck haveing been carelessly left in the Animal all
night. We were visited this Afternoon in a Canoe 4 feet 2 I. wide by
De-lash-hel-wilt a Chinnook Chief his wife and Six women of his Nation,
which the Old Boud his wife had brought for Market. this was the Same
party which had communicated the venereal to Several of our party in
November last, and of which.they have finally recovered. I therefore
gave the men a particular Charge with respect to them which they
promised me to observe. late this evening we were also visited by
Ca-tel a Clatsop man and his family. he brought a Canoe and a Sea Otter
Skin for Sale neither of which we could purchase of him. the Clatsops
which had brought a Canoe for Sale last evening left us this morning.
Bratten is still very weak and unwell.
There is a third Species of Brant in the neighbourhood of this place
which is about the Size and much the form of the bided brant. they
weigh about 81/2 lbs. the wings are not as long nor So pointed as the
Common pided brant. the following is a likeness of its head and beak. a
little distance arround the base of the beak is white and is Suddenly
Succeeded by a narrow line of dark brown. the ballance of the neck,
head, back, wings and tail all except the tips of the feathers are of
the blueish brown of the Common wild goose, the breast and belly are
white with an irregular mixture of black feathers which give that part
a pided appearance. from the legs back underneath the tail, and around
the junction of the Same with the body above, the feathers are white.
the tail is composed of 18 feathers; the longest of which are in the
center and measure 6 inches with the barrel of the quill; those on the
Side of the tail are Something Shorter and bend with their extremities
inwards towards the center of the tail. the extremities of these
feathers are white. the beak is of a light flesh colour. the legs and
feet which do not differ in Structure from those of the Goose or brant
of the other Species, are of an orrange yellow Colour. the eye is
Small; the iris is of a dark yellowish brown, and puple black. the note
of this brant is much that of the common pided brant from which in fact
they are not to be distinguished at a distance, but they Certainly are
a distinct Species of brant. the flesh of this fowl is as good as that
of the Common pided brant. they do not remain here dureing the winter
in Such numbers as the white brant do, tho they have now returned in
Considerable quantities. we first met with this brant on tide water.
The Clams of this coast are very Small. the Shells consist of two
valves which open with a hinge, the Shell is Smooth thin and of an oval
form or like that of the Common Muscle and of a Skye blue colour; it is
of every Size under a Inch & 3/4 in length, and hangs in clusters to
the moss of the rocks, the nativs Sometimes eate them.--The Periwinkle
both of the river and Ocian are Similar to those found in the Same
Situation on the Atlantic.--there is also an Animal which inhabits a
Shell perfectly circular about 3 inches in diameetor, thin and entire
on the marjin, convex and Smooth on the upper Side, plain on the under
part and covered with a number of minute Capillary fibers by means of
which it attaches itself to the Sides of the rocks. the Shell is thin
and Consists of one valve. a Small circular opperture is formed in the
Center of the under Shell the Animal is Soft and boneless &c.-.
[Lewis, March 16, 1806]
Sunday March 16th 1806.
Not any occurrence worthy of relation took place today. Drewyer and
party did not return from the Cathlahmahs this evening as we expected.
we suppose he was detained by the hard winds of today. the Indians
remained with us all day, but would not dispose of their canoes at a
price which it was in our power to give consistently with the state of
our Stock of Merchandize. two handkercheifs would now contain all the
small articles of merchandize which we possess; the ballance of the
stock consists of 6 blue robes one scarlet do. one uniform
artillerist's coat and hat, five robes made of our large flag, and a
few old cloaths trimed with ribbon. on this stock we have wholy to
depend for the purchase of horses and such portion of our subsistence
from the Indians as it will be in our powers to obtain. a scant
dependence indeed, for a tour of the distance of that before us. the
Clam of this coast are very small. the shell consists of two valves
which open with a hinge. the shell is smooth thin of an oval form or
like that of the common mussle, and sky blue colour. it is about 11/2
inches in length, and hangs in clusters to the moss of the rocks. the
natives sometimes eat them. the perewinkle both of the river and Ocean
are similar to those found in the same situations on the Atlantic
coast. the common mussle of the river are also the same with those in
the rivers of the atlantic coast. the cockle is small and also much the
same of the Atlantic. there is also an animal which inhabits a shell
perfectly circular about 3 Inches in diameter, thin and entire on the
margin, convex and smooth on the upper side, plain on the under part
and covered with a number minute capillary fibers by means of which it
attatches itself to the sides of the rocks. the shell is thin and
consists of one valve. a small circular apperture is formed in the
center of the under shell. the animal is soft & boneless.
The white Salmon Trout which we had previously seen only at the great
falls of the Columbia has now made it's appearance in the creeks near
this place. one of them was brought us today by an Indian who had just
taken it with his gig. this is a likness of it; it was 2 feet 8 Inches
long, and weighed 10 lbs. the eye is moderately large, the puple black
and iris of a silvery white with a small addmixture of yellow, and is a
little terbid near it's border with a yellowish brown. the position of
the fins may be seen from the drawing, they are small in proportion to
the fish. the fins are boney but not pointed except the tail and back
fins which are a little so, the prime back fin and ventral ones,
contain each ten rays; those of the gills thirteen, that of the tail
twelve, and the small fin placed near the tail above has no bony rays,
but is a tough flexable substance covered with smooth skin. it is
thicker in proportion to it's width than the salmon. the tongu is thick
and firm beset on each border with small subulate teeth in a single
series. the teeth of the mouth are as before discribed. neither this
fish nor the salmon are caught with the hook, nor do I know on what
they feed.
[Clark, March 16, 1806]
Sunday March 16th 1806
Not any occurrence worthy of relation took place today. Drewyer and
party did not return from the Cath lah mah's this evening as we
expected. we Suppose he was detained by the hard winds today. the
Indians remain with us all day, but would not dispose of their Canoe at
a price which it was in our power to give consistently with the State
of our Stock of Merchandize. One handkerchief would contain all the
Small articles of merchandize which we possess, the ballance of the
Stock Consists of 6 Small blue robes or Blankets one of Scarlet. one
uniform Artillerist's Coat and hat, 5 robes made of our larg flag, and
a fiew our old Clothes trimed with ribon. on this Stock we have wholy
to depend for the purchase of horses and Such portion of our
Subsistence from the Indians as it will be in our power to obtain. a
scant dependence indeed for the tour of the distance of that before us.
The pellucid jelly like Substance, called the Sea nettle I found in
great abundance along the Strand where it has been thrown up by the
waves and tide, and adheres to the Sand.
There are two Species of the Fuci, or (Seawead) Seawreck which we also
found thrown up by the waves. the 1st Specie at one extremity consists
of a large sesicle or hollow vessale which would contain from one to 2
gallons, of a conic form, the base of which forms the extreem End and
is convex and Globelar bearing on its center Some Short broad and
irregular fibers. the Substance is about the consistancy of the rind of
a citron Mellon and 3/4 of an inch thick, yellow celindrick, and
regularly tapering the tube extends to 20 or 30 feet and is then
termonated with a number of branches which are flat 1/2 inch in width,
rough particularly on the edges, where they are furnished with a number
of little oval vesicles or bags of the Size of a Pigions egg. this
plant Seams to be calculated to float at each extremity, while the
little end of the tube from whence the branches proceed, lies deepest
in the water.
The white Salmon Trout which we had previously seen only at the Great
Falls of the Columbia, or a little below the Great Falls, has now made
its appearance in the creeks near this place. one of them was brought
us to day by an indian who had just taken it with his gig. This is a
likeness of it; it was 2 feet 8 inches long, and weighed ten pounds.
the eye is moderately large, the puple black with a Small admixture of
yellow and the iris of a Silvery white with a Small admixture of yellow
and a little tirbed near its border with a yellowish brown. the
position of the fins may be seen from the drawing, they are small in
perpotion to the fish. the fins are honey but not pointed except the
tail and back fins which are a little So, the prime back fin and
venteral ones, contain each ten rays; those of the gills twelve, and
the Small Finn placed near the tail above has no long rays, but is a
tough flexable Substance covered with Smooth Skin. it is thicker in
perpotion to it's width than the Salmons. the tongue is thick and firm
beset on each border with small subulate teeth in a Single Series. the
Teeth of the mouth are as before discribed. neither this fish nor the
Salmon are cought with the hook, nor do I know on what they feed.-now
begin to run &c. &c.
[Lewis, March 17, 1806]
Monday March 17th 1806.
Catel and his family left us this morning. Old Delashelwilt and his
women still remain they have formed a camp near the fort and seem to be
determined to lay close sege to us but I beleive notwithstanding every
effort of their wining graces, the men have preserved their constancy
to the vow of celibacy which they made on this occasion to Capt C. and
myself. we have had our perogues prepared for our departer, and shal
set out as soon as the weather will permit. the weather is so
precarious that we fear by waiting untill the first of April that we
might be detained several days longer before we could get from this to
the Cathlahmahs as it must be calm or we cannot accomplish that part of
our rout. Drewyer returned late this evening from the Cathlahmahs with
our canoe which Sergt. Pryor had left some days since, and also a canoe
which he had purchased from those people. for this canoe he gave my
uniform laced coat and nearly half a carrot of tobacco. it seems that
nothing excep this coat would induce them to dispose of a canoe which
in their mode of traffic is an article of the greatest value except a
wife, with whom it is equal, and is generally given in exchange to the
father for his daughter. I think the U States are indebted to me
another Uniform coat, for that of which I have disposed on this
occasion was but little woarn.--we yet want another canoe, and as the
Clatsops will not sell us one at a price which we can afford to give we
will take one from them in lue of the six Elk which they stole from us
in the winter.-
The pellucid jellylike substance, called the sea-nettle is found in
great abundance along the strad where it has been thrown up by the
waves and tide.
There are two speceis of the Fuci or seawreckwhich we also find thrown
up by the waves. the 1st speceis at one extremity consists of a large
vesicle or hollow vessell which would contain from one to two gallons,
of a conic form, the base of which forms the extreem end and is convex
and globelar bearing on it's center some short broad and irregular
fibers. the substance is about the consistence of the rind of a citron
mellon and 3/4 of an inch thick. the rihind is smooth. from the small
extremity of the cone a long, hollow, celindrick, and regularly
tapering tube extends to 20 or thirty feet and is then terminated with
a number of branches which are flat 1/2 an inch in width rough
particular on the edges where they are furnished with a number of
little ovate vesicles or bags of the size of a pigeon's egg. this plant
seems to be calculated to float at each extremity while the little end
of the tube from whence the branches proceed, lies deepest in the water.
The other speceis I have never seen but Capt. Clark who saw it on the
coast towards the Killamucks informed me that it resembled a large
pumpkin, it is solid and it's specific gravity reather greater than the
water, tho it is sometimes thrown out by the waves. it is of a yellowis
brown colour. the rhind smooth and consistence harder than that of a
pumpkin tho easily cut with a knife. there are some dark brown fibers
reather harder than any other part which pass longitudinally through
the pulp or fleshey substance wich forms the interior of this marine
production.The following is a list of the names of the commanders of
vessels who visit the entrance of the Columbia river in the spring and
autumn fror the purpose of trading with the natives or hunting Elk.
these names are spelt as the Indians pronounce them.
Mr. Haley, their favorite trader visits them in a vessel with three
masts, and continues some time
Youens,
visits in a
3
masted vessel-
Trader
Tallamon
do.
3
do.
no trader
Callallamet
do.
3
do.
Trader. has a wooden leg.
Swipton
do.
3
do.
Trader.
Moore
do.
4
do.
do.
Mackey
do.
3
do.
do.
Washington
do.
3
do.
do.
Mesship
do.
3
do.
do.
Davidson
do.
2
no trader hunts Elk
Jackson
do.
3
masted vessel
Trader
Bolch
do.
3
do.
do.
Skelley
do.
3
do.
do. tho he has been gone some years. he has one eye.
[Clark, March 17, 1806]
Monday March 17th 1806
Catel and his family left us this morning. Old Delashelwill and his
women still remain, they have formed a Camp near the fort and Seam
determined to lay Close Sege to us, but I believe notwithstanding every
effort of their wining graces, the men have preserved their constancy
to the vow of celibacy which they made on this Occasion to Capt L. and
my self. we have had our Canoes prepared for our departure, and Shall
Set out as Soon as the weather will permit. the weather is So
precarious that we fear by waiting untill the first of April that we
might be detained Several days longer before we could get from this to
the Cath-lah-mahs, as it must be Calm or we cannot accomplish that part
of the rout in our Canoes. Drewyer returned late this evening from the
Cath-lah-mahs with our Indian Canoe which Sergt. Pryor had left Some
days since, and also a Canoe, which he had purchased from those people.
for this canoe he gave Captn. Lewis's uniform laced coat and nearly
half a Carrot of to-bacco. it Seams that nothing except this Coat would
induce them to dispose of a Canoe which in their mode of traffic is an
article of the greatest value except a wife, with whome it is nearly
equal, and is generally given in exchange to the father for his
Daughter. I think that the United States are injustice indebted to
Captn Lewis another uniform Coat for that of which he has disposed of
on this ocasion, it was but little worn.
We yet want another Canoe as the Clatsops will not Sell us one, a
proposition has been made by one of our interpt and Several of the
party to take one in lieu of 6 Elk which they Stole from us this winter
&c.
[Lewis, March 18, 1806]
Tuesday March 18th 1806.
Drewyer was taken last night with a violent pain in his side. Capt.
Clark blead him. several of the men are complaining of being unwell. it
is truly unfortunate that they should be sick at the moment of our
departure. we directed Sergt. Pryor to prepare the two Canoes which
Drewyer brought last evening for his mess. they wanted some knees to
strengthen them and several cracks corked and payed. he completed them
except the latter operation which the frequent showers in the course of
the day prevented as the canoes could not be made sufficiently dry even
with the assistance of fire. Comowooll and two Cathlahmahs visited us
today; we suffered them to remain all night. this morning we gave
Delashelwilt a certificate of his good deportment &c. and also a list
of our names, after which we dispatched him to his village with his
female band. These lists of our names we have given to several of the
natives and also paisted up a copy in our room. the object of these
lists we stated in the preamble of the same as follows (viz) "The
object of this list is, that through the medium of some civilized
person who may see the same, it may be made known to the informed
world, that the party consisting of the persons whose names are
hereunto annexed, and who were sent out by the government of the U
States in May 1804 to explore the interior of the Continent of North
America, did penetrate the same by way of the Missouri and Columbia
Rivers, to the discharge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, where
they arrived on the 14th November 1805, and from whence they departed
the ____ day of March 1806 on their return to the United States by the
same rout they had come out."--on the back of some of these lists we
added a sketch of the connection of the upper branches of the Missouri
with those of the Columbia, particularly of it's main S. E. branch, on
which we also delienated the track we had come and that we meant to
pursue on our return where the same happened to vary. There seemed so
many chances against our government ever obtaining a regular report,
though the medium of the savages and the traders of this coast that we
declined making any. our party are also too small to think of leaving
any of them to return to the U States by sea, particularly as we shall
be necessarily divided into three or four parties on our return in
order to accomplish the objects we have in view; and at any rate we
shall reach the United States in all human probability much earlier
than a man could who must in the event of his being left here depend
for his passage to the United States on the traders of the coast who
may not return immediately to the U States or if they should, might
probably spend the next summer in trading with the natives before they
would set out on their return. this evening Drewyer went inquest of his
traps, and took an Otter. Joseph Fields killed an Elk.--The Indians
repeated to us the names of eighteen distinct tribes residing on the S.
E. coast who spoke the Killamucks language, and beyound those six
others who spoke a different language which they did not comprehend.
[Clark, March 18, 1806]
Tuesday March 17th 1806
Drewyer was taken last night with a violent pain in his Side. I bled
him. Several of the men are complaining of being unwell. it is truly
unfortunate that they Should be Sick at the moment of our departure.
Derected Sergt. Pryor to prepare the two Indian Canoes which we had
purchased for his mess. they wanted Some knees to Strengthen them, and
Several cracks corked and payed. he compleated them except paying. the
frequent Showers of rain prevented the Canoes drying Sufficient to pay
them even with the assistance of fire.
Commorwool and two Cathlahmahs visited us to day; we Suffered them to
remain all night. this morning we gave Delashelwilt a certificate of
his good deportment &c. and also a list of our names, after which we
dispatched him to his village with his female band. Those list's of our
Names we have given to Several of the nativs, and also pasted up a Copy
in our room. the Object of these lists we Stated in the preamble of the
Same as follows Viz: "The Object of this list is, that through the
medium of Some civilized person who may See the Same, it may be made
known to the informed world, that the party consisting of the persons
whoes names are hereunto annexed, and who were Sent out by the
Government of the United States in May 1804, to explore the interior of
the Continent of North America, did penetrate the Same by way of the
Missouri and Columbia rivers, to the discharge of the latter into the
Pacific Ocian, where they arrived on the 14th of November 1805, and
from whence they departed the ____ day of March 1806 on their return to
the United States by the Same rout they had come out."
On the back of lists we added a Sketch of the continent of the upper
branches of the Missouri with those of the Columbia, particularly of
its upper N. E. branch or Lewis's River, on which we also delienated
the track we had Came and that we ment to pursue on our return, when
the Same happened to vary. There Seemes So many chances against our
governments ever obtaining a regular report, through the medium of the
Savages, and the traders of this Coast that we decline makeing any. Our
party are too small to think of leaveing any of them to return to the
Unt. States by Sea, particularly as we Shall be necessarily devided
into two or three parties on our return in order to accomplish the
Object we have in View; and at any rate we Shall reach the U, States in
all humain probabillity much earlier than a man Could who must in the
event of his being left here depend for his passage to the U, State on
the traders of the Coast, who may not return imediately to the U,
States. or if they should, might probably Spend the next Summer in
tradeing with the nativs before they would Set out on their return.
This evening Drewyer went in quest of his traps, and took an otter.
Joseph Field killd and Elk.--The Indians repeated to us Eighteen
distinct Nations resideing on the S S. E Coast who Speak the Kil a mox
language or understand it. and beyend those Six other Nations which
Speak a different language which they did not comprehend.
The 2d Species of Seawreck which I saw on the coast to the S. S. E.
near the Kil a mox nation. it resembles a large pumpkin, it is Solid
and it's Specific Gravity reather greater than the water, tho it is
Sometimes thrown out by the waves. it is of a pale yellowish brown
colour. the rhind Smooth and consistency harder than that of the
pumpkin, tho easily cut with a knife. there are Some fibers of a
lighter colour and much harder than any other part which pass
Longitudinally through the pulp or fleshey Substance which forms the
interior of this marine production--
[Lewis, March 19, 1806]
Wednesday March 19th 1806.
It continued to rain and hail today in such manner that nothing further
could be done to the canoes. a pratry were sent out early after the Elk
which was killed yesterday with which they returned in the course of a
few hours. we gave Comowooll alias Connia, a cirtificate of his good
conduct and the friendly intercourse which he has maintained with us
during our residence at this place; we also gave him a list of our
names.do not. The Killamucks, Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cathlahmahs and
Wac-ki-a-cums resemble each other as well in their persons and dress as
in their habits and manners.--their complexion is not remarkable, being
the usual copper brown of most of the tribes of North America. they are
low in statue reather diminutive, and illy shapen; possessing thick
broad flat feet, thick ankles, crooked legs wide mouths thick lips,
nose moderately large, fleshey, wide at the extremity with large
nostrils, black eyes and black coarse hair. their eyes are sometimes of
a dark yellowish brown the puple black. I have observed some high
acqualine noses among them but they are extreemty rare. the nose is
generally low between the eyes.--the most remarkable trait in their
physiognomy is the peculiar flatness and width of forehead which they
artificially obtain by compressing the head between two boards while in
a state of infancy and from which it never afterwards perfectly
recovers. this is a custom among all the nations we have met with West
of the Rocky mountains. I have observed the heads of many infants,
after this singular bandage had been dismissed, or about the age of 10
or eleven months, that were not more than two inches thick about the
upper edge of the forehead and reather thiner still higher. from the
top of the head to the extremity of the nose is one streight line. this
is done in order to give a greater width to the forehead, which they
much admire. this process seems to be continued longer with their
female than their mail children, and neither appear to suffer any pain
from the operation. it is from this peculiar form of the head that the
nations East of the Rocky mountains, call all the nations on this side,
except the Aliahtans or snake Indians, by the generic name of Flat
heads. I think myself that the prevalence of this custom is a strong
proof that those nations having originally proceeded from the same
stock. The nations of this neighbourhood or those recapitulated above,
wear their hair loosly flowing on the back and sholders; both men and
women divide it on the center of the crown in front and throw it back
behind the ear on each side. they are fond of combs and use them when
they can obtain them; and even without the aid of the comb keep their
hair in better order than many nations who are in other rispects much
more civilized than themselves.--the large or apparently swolen legs
particularly observable in the women are obtained in a great measure by
tying a cord tight around the ankle. their method of squating or
resting themselves on their hams which they seem from habit to prefer
to siting, no doubt contributes much to this deformity of the legs by
preventing free circulation of the blood. the dress of the man consists
of a smal robe, which reaches about as low as the middle of the thye
and is attatched with a string across the breast and is at pleasure
turned from side to side as they may have occasion to disencumber the
right or left arm from the robe entirely, or when they have occasion
for both hands, the fixture of the robe is in front with it's corners
loosly hanging over their arms. they sometimes wear a hat which has
already been discribed. this robe is made most commonly of the skins of
a small animal which I have supposed was the brown mungo, tho they have
also a number, of the skins of the tiger cat, some of those of the Elk
which are used principally on their war excursions, others of the skins
of the deer panther and bear and a blanket wove with the fingers of the
wool of the native sheep. a mat is sometimes temperarily thrown over
the sholders to protect them from rain. they have no other article of
cloathing whatever neither winter nor summer. and every part except the
sholders and back is exposed to view. they are very fond of the dress
of the whites, which they wear in a similar manner when they can obtain
them, except the shoe which I have never seen woarn by any of them.
they call us pah-shish'e-ooks, or cloth men. The dress of the women
consists of a robe, tissue, and sometimes when the weather is
uncommonly cold, a vest. their robe is much smaller than that of the
men, never reaching lower than the waist nor extending in front
sufficiently far to cover the body. it is like that of the men confined
across the breast with a string and hangs loosly over the sholders and
back. the most esteemed and valuable of these robes are made of strips
of the skins of the Sea Otter net together with the bark of the white
cedar or silk-grass. these strips are first twisted and laid parallel
with each other a little distance assunder, and then net or wove
together in such manner that the fur appears equally on both sides, and
unites between the strands. it make a warm and soft covering. other
robes are formed in a similar manner of the skin of the Rackoon, beaver
&c. at other times the skin is dressed in the hair and woarn without
any further preperation. in this way one beaver skin, or two of those
of the Raccoon or tiger catt forms the pattern of the robe. the vest is
always formed in the manner first discribed of their robes and covers
the body from the armpits to the waist, and is confined behind, and
destitute of straps over the sholder to keep it up. when this vest is
woarn the breast of the woman is concealed, but without it which is
almost always the case, they are exposed, and from the habit of
remaining loose and unsuspended grow to great length particularly in
aged women in many of whom I have seen the hubby reach as low as the
waist. The garment which occupys the waist, and from thence as low as
nearly to the knee before and the ham, behind, cannot properly be
denominated a petticoat, in the common acceptation of that term; it is
a tissue of white cedar bark, bruised or broken into small shreds,
which are interwoven in the middle by means of several cords of the
same materials, which serve as well for a girdle as to hold in place
the shreds of bark which form the tissue, and which shreds confined in
the middle hang with their ends pendulous from the waist, the whole
being of sufficient thickness when the female stands erect to conceal
those parts usually covered from formiliar view, but when she stoops or
places herself in many other attitudes, this battery of Venus is not
altogether impervious to the inquisitive and penetrating eye of the
amorite. This tissue is sometimes formed of little twisted cords of the
silk grass knoted at their ends and interwoven as discribed of the
bark. this kind is more esteemed and last much longer than those of
bark. they also form them of flags and rushes which are woarn in a
similar manner. the women as well as the men sometimes cover themselves
from the rain by a mat woarn over the sholders. they also cover their
heads from the rain sometimes with a common water cup or basket made of
the cedar bark and beargrass. these people seldom mark their skins by
puncturing and introducing a colouring matter. such of them as do mark
themselves in this manner prefer their legs and arms on which they
imprint parallel lines of dots either longitudinally or circularly. the
women more frequently than the men mark themselves in this manner.
The favorite ornament of both sexes are the common coarse blue and
white beads which the men wear tightly wound arond their wrists and
ankles many times untill they obtain the width of three or more inches.
they also wear them in large rolls loosly arond the neck, or pendulous
from the cartelage of the nose or rims of the ears which are purforated
for the purpose. the women wear them in a similar manner except in the
nose which they never purforate. they are also fond of a species of
wampum which is furnished them by a trader whom they call Swipton. it
seems to be the native form of the shell without any preperation. this
shell is of a conic form somewhat curved, about the size of a raven's
quill at the base, and tapering to a point which is sufficiently large
to permit to hollow through which a small thred passes; it is from one
to 11/2 Inches in length, white, smooth, hard and thin. these are woarn
in the same manner in which the beads are; and furnish the men with
their favorite ornament for the nose. one of these shells is passed
horizontally through the cartilage of the nose and serves frequently as
a kind of ring to prevent the string which suspends other ornaments at
the same part from chafing and freting the flesh. the men sometimes
wear collars of bears claws, and the women and children the tusks of
the Elk variously arranged on their necks arms &c. both males and
females wear braslets on their wrists of copper brass or Iron in
various forms. I think the most disgusting sight I have ever beheld is
these dirty naked wenches. The men of these nations partake of much
more of the domestic drudgery than I had at first supposed. they
collect and prepare all the fuel, make the fires, assist in cleansing
and preparing the fish, and always cook for the strangers who visit
them. they also build their houses, construct their canoes, and make
all their wooden utensils. the peculiar provence of the woman seems to
be to collect roots and manufacture various articles which are prepared
of rushes, flags, cedar bark, bear grass or waytape. the management of
the canoe for various purposes seems to be a duty common to both sexes,
as also many other occupations which with most Indian nations devolves
exclusively on the woman. their feasts which they are very fond are
always prepared and served by the men.
Comowool and the two Cathlahmahs left us this evening. it continued to
rain so constantly today that Sergt. Pryor could not pitch his canoes.
[Clark, March 19, 1806]
Wednesday March 19th 1806 Inds. Descd.
It continued to rain and hail in Such a manner that nothing Could be
done to the Canoes. a party were Sent out early after the Elk which was
killed last evening, with which they returned in the Course of a fiew
hours, we gave Commorwool alias Cania, a Certificate of his good
conduct and the friendly intercourse which he has maintained with us
dureing our residence at this place; we also gave him a list of our
names &c.--The Kilamox, Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cath lah mahs Wau ki a cum
and Chiltz I-resemble each other as well in their persons and Dress as
in their habits and manners.--their complexion is not remarkable, being
the usial Copper brown of the tribes of North America. they are low in
Statue reather diminutive, and illy Shaped, possessing thick broad flat
feet, thick ankles, crooked legs, wide mouths, thick lips, noses Stuk
out and reather wide at the base, with black eyes and black coarse hair.
I have observed Some high acqualine noses among them but they are
extreemly reare. the most remarkable trate in their physiognamy is the
peculiar flatness and width of the forehead which they Artificially
obtain by compressing the head between two boards while in a State of
infancy, and from which it never afterwards perfectly recovers. This is
a custom among all the nations, we have met with West of the Rocky
Mountains. I have observed the head of maney infants, after this
Singular Bandage had been dismissed, or about the age of 11 or 12
months, that were not more than two inches thick about the upper part
of the forehead and reather thiner Still higher. from the top of the
head to the extremity of the nose is one Streight line. this is done in
order to give a greater width to the forehead, which they much admire.
This process seams to be continued longer with their female than their
male children, and neither appears to Suffer any pain from the
opperation. it is from this peculiar form of the head that the nations
East of the Rocky Mountains, call all the nations on this Side, except
Aliahtans, So-so-ne, or Snake Indians by the General name of Flat
Heads. I think my Self that the provalence of this custom is a Strong
proof of those nations haveing originally proceeded from the Same
Stock. The nations of this neighbourhood or those recpitulated above,
ware their hair loosly flowing on their back and Sholders; both men and
women divide it on the Center of the Crown in front and throw it back
behind the ear on each Side. they are fond of Combs and use them when
they Can obtain them; and even without the aid of Combs keep their in
better order, than inaney nations who are in other respects much more
Civilized than themselves.
The large or apparently Sweled legs particularly observable in the
women, are obtained in a great measure by tying a cord tight around the
leg above the ancle bone. their method of Squating or resting
themselves on their hams which they Seam from habit to prefer to
Setting, no doubt contributes much to this deformity of the legs by
preventing free circulation of the blood. This is also the Custom of
the nations above.
The dress of the men like those above on the Columbia river Consists of
a Small robe, which reaches about as low as the middle of the thye and
is attatched with a String across the breast and is at pleasure turned
from Side to Side as they may have an occasion to disincumber the right
or left arm from the robe entirely, or when they have occasion for both
hands, the fixture of the robe is in front with it's corner loosly
hanging over their Arms. they Sometimes wear a hat which have already
been discribed (See 29th Jany.) Their Robes are made most commonly of
the Skins of a Small animal which I have Supposed was the brown mungo,
tho they have also a number of the Skins of the tiger Cat, Some of
those of the Elk which are used principally on their war excursions,
others of the Skins of Deer, panthor, Bear, and the Speckle Loon, and
blankets wove with the fingers of the wool of the native Sheep. and
Some of those on the Sea Coast have robes of Beaver and the Sea Otter.
a mat is Sometimes temperaly thrown over the Sholders to protect them
from rain. they have no other article of Cloathing whatever neither
winter nor Summer, and every part except the Sholders and back is
exposed to view. they are very fond of the dress of the whites, which
they ware in a Similar manner when they Can obtain them, except the
Shoe or mockerson which I have never Seen worn by any of them. They
Call us pah-shish-e-ooks or Cloath men. The dress of the women consists
of a roab, tissue, and Sometimes when the weather is uncommonly Cold, a
vest. their robe is much Smaller than that of the men, never reaching
lower than the waist nor extending in front Sufficiently far to cover
the body. it is like that of the men confined across the breast with a
String and hangs loosely over the Sholders and back. the most esteemed
& valuable of those robes are made of Strips of the Skin of the Sea
Otter net together with the bark of the white Cedar or Silk grass.
these fish are first twisted and laid parallel with each other a little
distance asunder, and then net or wove together in Such a manner that
the fur appears equally on both Sides, and united between the Strands.
it makes a worm and Soft covering. other robes are formed in a Similar
manner of the Skins of the rackoon, beaver &c. at other times the Skins
is dressed in the hair and worn without any further preperation. in
this way one beaver Skin or two of the rackoon or one of the tiger Cat
forms a vest and Covers the body from the Armpits to the waist, and is
confined behind, and destitute of Straps over the Sholder to keep it
up. when this vest is worn the breast of the woman in consealed, but
without it which is almost always the case, they are exposed, and from
the habit of remaining loose and unsuspended grow to great length,
particularly in aged women, on many of whome I have Seen the bubby
reach as low as the waist. The petticoat or tissue which occupies the
waiste has been already described (See 7th Novr. 1805) formd. of the
Bark of white cedar, Silk grass, flags & rushes. The women as well as
the men Sometimes cover themselves from the rain by a mat worn over the
Sholders. They also Cover their heads from the rain Sometimes with a
common water cup or basket made of Cedar bark and bear grass.
Those people Sometimes mark themselves by punctureing and introducing a
Colouring matter. Such of them as do mark themselves in this manner
prefur the legs and arms on which they imprint parallel lines of dots
either longitudinally or circularly. the woman more frequently than the
men mark themselves in this manner. The favorite orniments of both
Sexes are the Common coarse blue and white beads as before discribed of
the Chinnooks. Those beads the men wear tightly wound around their
wrists and Ankles maney times untill they obtain the width of three or
four inches. they also wear them in large rolls loosly around the neck,
or pendulous from the cartelage of the nose or rims of the ears which
are purfarated in different places round the extremities for the
purpose. the woman wear them in a Similar manner except in the nose
which they never purfarate. they are also fond of a Species of wompum,
which is furnished by a trader whome they call Swipton. it seams to be
the nativ form of the Shell without any preperation. this Shell is of a
conic form Somewhat curved about the Size of a ravens quill at the
base, and tapering to a point which is Sufficiently large to permit a
hollow through which a Small thread passes; it is from 1 to 11/2 inches
in length, white, Smooth, hard and thin these are worn in the Same
manner in which the beeds are; and furnish the men with their favorite
orniment for the nose. one of these Shells is passed horizontally
through cartilage of the nose and Serves frequently as a kind of ring
which prevents the string which Suspends other orniments at the Same
part from Chafing and freting the flesh. The men Sometimes wear Collars
of Bears Claws, and the women and children the tusks of the Elk
variously arranged on their necks arms &c. both male and female wear
bracelets on their wrists of Copper, Brass or Iron in various forms.
The women Sometimes wash their faces & hands but Seldom. I think the
most disgusting Sight I have ever beheld is those dirty naked wenches.
The men of those nations partake of much more of the domestic drudgery
than I had at first Supposed. they Collect and prepare all the fuel,
make the fires, cook for the Strangers who visit them, and assist in
Cleaning and prepareing the fish. they also build their houses,
construct their Canoes, and make all their wooden utensils. the
peculiar province of the woman Seams to be to collect roots and
manufacture various articles which are prepared of rushes, flags, Cedar
bark, bear grass or way tape, also dress and manufacture the Hats &
robes for Common use. the management of the Canoe for various purposes
Seams to be a duty common to both Sexes, as are many other occupations
which with most Indian nations devolve exclusively on the womin. their
feasts of which they are very fond are always prepared and Served by
the men.-.-.
it Continued to rain So constantly dureing the day that Sergt. Pryor
Could not Pay his Canoes. The Clatsop Chief Commowool and the two
Cath-lah-mahs left us this evening and returned to their village.
[Lewis, March 20, 1806]
Thursday March 20th 1806.
It continued to rain and blow so violently today that nothing could be
done towards forwarding our departure. we intended to have Dispatched
Drewyer and the two Fieldses to hunt near the bay on this side of the
Cathlahmahs untill we jounded them from hence, but the rain rendered
our departure so uncertain that we declined this measure for the
present. nothing remarkable happened during the day. we have yet
several days provision on hand, which we hope will be sufficient to
subsist us during the time we are compelled by the weather to remain at
this place.
Altho we have not fared sumptuously this winter and spring at Fort
Clatsop, we have lived quite as comfortably as we had any reason to
expect we should; and have accomplished every object which induced our
remaining at this place except that of meeting with the traders who
visit the entrance of this river. our salt will be very sufficient to
last us to the Missouri where we have a stock in store.--it would have
been very fortunate for us had some of those traders arrived previous
to our departure from hence, as we should then have had it our power to
obtain an addition to our stock of merchandize which would have made
our homeward bound journey much more comfortable. many of our men are
still complaining of being unwell; Willard and Bratton remain weak,
principally I beleive for the want of proper food. I expect when we get
under way we shall be much more healthy. it has always had that effect
on us heretofore. The guns of Drewyer and Sergt. Pryor were both out of
order. the first was repared with a new lock, the old one having become
unfit for uce; the second had the cock screw broken which was replaced
by a duplicate which had been prepared for the lock at Harpers ferry
where she was manufactured. but for the precaution taken in bringing on
those extra locks, and parts of locks, in addition to the ingenuity of
John Shields, most of our guns would at this moment been untirely unfit
for use; but fortunately for us I have it in my power here to record
that they are all in good order.
[Clark, March 20, 1806]
Thursday March 20th 1806
It continued to rain and blow so violently to day that nothing could be
done towards fowarding our departure. we intended to have dispatched
Drewyer & the 2 Field'es to hunt above Point William untill we joined
them from hense but the rain renders our departure So uncertain that we
decline this measure for the present. nothing remarkable happened
dureing the day. we have yet Several days provisions on hand, which we
hope will be Sufficient to Serve us dureing the time we are compell'd
by the weather to remain at this place.-.
Altho we have not fared Sumptuously this winter & Spring at Fort
Clatsop, we have lived quit as comfortably as we had any reason to
expect we Should; and have accomplished every object which induced our
remaining at this place except that of meeting with the traders who
visit the enterance of this river. our Salt will be very sufficient to
last us to the Missouri where we have a Stock in Store.--it would have
been very fortunate for us had Some of those traders arrived previous
to our departure from hence; as we Should then have had it in our power
to obtain an addition to our Stock of merchandize, which would have
made our homeward bound journey much more comfortable.
Maney of our men are Still Complaining of being unwell; Bratten and
Willard remain weak principally I believe for the want of proper food.
I expect when we get under way that we Shall be much more healthy. it
has always had that effect on us heretofore.
The Guns of Sergt. Pryor & Drewyer were both out of order. the first
had a Cock screw broken which was replaced by a duplicate which had
been prepared for the Locks at Harpers Ferry; the Second repared with a
new Lock, the old one becoming unfit for use. but for the precaution
taken in bringing on those extra locks, and parts of locks, in addition
to the ingenuity of John Shields, most of our guns would at this moment
been entirely unfit for use; but fortunate for us I have it in my power
here to record that they are in good order, and Complete in every
respect-
[Lewis, March 21, 1806]
Friday March 21st 1806.
As we could not set out we thought it best to send out some hunters and
accordingly dispatched Sheilds and Collins on this side the Netul for
that purpose with orders to return in the evening or sooner if they
were successfull. The hunters returned late in the evening
unsuccessfull. we have not now more than one day's provision on hand.
we directed Drewyer and the Feildses to set out tomorrow morning early,
and indevour to provide us some provision on the bay beyond point
William. we were visited to day by some Clatsop indians who left us in
the evening. our sick men Willard and bratton do not seem to recover;
the former was taken with a violent pain in his leg and thye last
night. Bratton is now so much reduced that I am somewhat uneasy with
rispect to his recovery; the pain of which he complains most seems to
be seated in the small of his back and remains obstinate. I beleive
that it is the rheumatism with which they are both afflicted.
[Clark, March 21, 1806]
Friday March 21st 1806
as we could not Set out we thought it best to Send out Some hunters and
accordingly dispatched Shields and Collins on this Side of the Netul
for that purpose with orders to return in the evening or Sooner if they
were Successfull. they returned late in the evening unsuccessfull. we
have not now more than two days provisions on hand. we derected Drewyer
and the two Fieldses to Set out tomorrow morning early, and indevour to
provide us Some provision on the Bay beyond point William. we were
visited to day by Some Clatsops who left us in the evening. our sick
men willard and Bratten do not Seem to recover; the former was taken
with a violent pain in his leg and thye last night. Bratten is now so
much reduced that I am Somewhat uneasy with respect to his recovery;
the pain of which he complains most Seems to be Settled in the Small of
his back and remains obstenate. I believe that it is the Rheumatism
with which they are both affected.-.
[Lewis, March 22, 1806]
Saturday March 22cd 1806.
Drewyer and the Feildses departed this morning agreably to the order of
the last evening. we sent out seven hunters this morning in different
directions on this side the Netul. about 10 A.M. we were visited by 4
Clatsops and a killamucks; they brought some dried Anchoveis and a dog
for sale which we purchased. the air is perefectly temperate, but it
continues to rain in such a manner that there be is no possibility of
geting our canoes completed.--at 12 OCk. we were visited by Comowooll
and 3 of the Clatsops. to this Cheif we left our houses and funiture.
he has been much more kind an hospitable to us than any other indian in
this neighbourhood. the Indians departed in the evening. the hunters
all returned except Colter, unsuccessfull. we determined to set out
tomorrow at all events, and to stop the canoes temperarily with Mud and
halt the first fair day and pay them. the leafing of the hucklebury
riminds us of spring.
[Clark, March 22, 1806]
Saturday March 22nd 1806
Drewyer and the two Fieldses departed this morning agreably to the
order of last evening. we Sent out Six hunters this morning in
different directions on both Sides of the Netul. about 10 A.M. we were
visited by Que-ne-o alias Commorwool 8 Clatsops and a Kil-a-mox; they
brought Some dried Anchovies, a common Otter Skin and a Dog for Sale
all of which we purchased. the Dog we purchased for our Sick men, the
fish for to add to our Small Stock of provision's, and the Skin to
cover my papers. those Indians left us in the evening. the air is
perfectly temperate, but it continues to rain in Such a manner that
there is no possibillity of getting our canoes completed in order to
Set out on our homeward journey. The Clatsops inform us that Several of
their nation has the Sore throat, one of which has laterly died with
this disorder. the Hunters Sent out to day all returned except Colter
unsessfull.
[Lewis, March 23, 1806]
Sunday March 23rd 1806.
Half after 9 A.M. Colter arrived, having killed one Elk but so distant
that we could not send for the meat and get arround Point William
today, we therefore prefered seting out and depending on Drewyer and
the hunters we have sent forward for meat. the wind is pretty high but
it seems to be the common opinion that we can pass point William. we
accordingly distributed the baggage and directed the canoes to be
launched and loaded for our departure.--at 1 P.M. we bid a final adieu
to Fort Clatsop. we had not proceeded more than a mile before we met
Delashelwilt and a party of 20 Chinnooks men and women. this Cheif
leaning that we were in want of a canoe some days past, had brought us
one for sale, but being already supplyed we did not purchase it. I
obtained one Sea Otter skin from this party. at a 1/4 before three we
had passed Meriwethers bay and commenced coasting the difficult shore;
at 1/2 after five we doubled point William, and at 7 arrived in the
mouth of a small creek where we found our hunters. they had killed 2
Elk, at the distance of a mile & 1/2. it was too late to send after it
this evening. we therefore encamped on the Stard side of the Creek. the
wind was not very hard.
[Clark, March 23, 1806]
Sunday 23rd March 1806
This morning proved So raney and uncertain that we were undeturmined
for Some time whether we had best Set out & risque the river which
appeared to be riseing or not. Jo. Colter returned haveing killed an
Elk about 3 miles towards Point Adams. the rained Seased and it became
fair about Meridean, at which time we loaded our Canoes & at 1 P.M.
left Fort Clatsop on our homeward bound journey. at this place we had
wintered and remained from the 7th of Decr. 1805 to this day and have
lived as well as we had any right to expect, and we can Say that we
were never one day without 3 meals of Some kind a day either pore Elk
meat or roots, not withstanding the repeeted fall of rain which has
fallen almost Constantly Since we passed the long narrows on the ____
of Novr. last indeed we have had only ____ days fair weather since that
time. Soon after we had Set out from Fort Clatsop we were met by De
lash el wilt & 8 men of the Chinnooks, and Delashelwilts wife the old
bond and his Six Girls, they had, a Canoe, a Sea otter Skin, Dried fish
and hats for Sale, we purchased a Sea otter Skin, and proceeded on,
thro Meriwethers Bay, there was a Stiff breese from the S. W. which
raised Considerable Swells around Meriwethers point which was as much
as our Canoes Could ride. above point William we came too at the Camp
of Drewyer & the 2 Field's. they had killed 2 Elk which was about 11/2
miles distant. here we Encampd. for the night having made 16 miles.
[Lewis, March 24, 1806]
Monday March 24th 1806.
This morning we sent out a party of 15, at light, for the meat, and
concluded to take breakfast before we set out. they soon returned. we
breakfasted and set out at 1/2 after 9 A.M. Saw a white woodpecker with
a red head of the small kind common to the United States; this bird has
but lately returned. they do not remain during the winter. the country
thick and heavily timbered. we saw very few waterfowl today, not a
single swan, white brant nor a small goose is to be seen. a few
Cormorant, duckinmallard, butterbox, and common large geese were only
to be found the tide being out this morning we found some difficulty in
passing through the bay below the Cathlahmah village; this side of the
river is very shallow to the distance of 4 miles from the shore tho
there is a channel sufficient for canoes near S. side. at 1 P.M. we
arrived at the Cathlahmah village where we halted and purchased some
wappetoe, a dog for the sick, and a hat for one of the men. on one of
the seal Islands opposite to the village of these people thy have
scaffolded their dead in canoes elivating them above tidewater mark.
these people are very fond of sculpture in wood of which they exhibit a
variety of specemines about their houses. the broad peices supporting
the center of the roof and those through which the doors are cut, seem
to be the peices on which they most display their taist. I saw some of
these which represented human figures setting and supporting the
burthen on their sholders. at half after 3 P.M. we set out and
continued our rout among the seal Islands; not paying much attention we
mistook our rout which an Indian perceiving pursued overtook us and put
us in the wright channel. this Cathlahmah claimed the small canoe which
we had taken from the Clatsops. however he consented very willingly to
take an Elk's skin for it which I directed should be given him and he
immediately returned. we continued our rout along the South side of the
river and encamped at an old village of 9 houses opposite to the lower
Wackkiacum village. the night was cold tho wood was abundant after dark
two Chinnook men came to us in a small canoe. they remained with us all
night. came 15 miles today.
[Clark, March 24, 1806]
Monday 24th of March 1806
Sent out 15 men verry early this morning for the flesh of the two Elk
killed by Drewyer and Fields yesterday. they returned at 8 oClock,
after taking a Slight brackfast we Set out at half past 9 a.m. and
proceeded to the Cath lah mah Village at 1 P.M. and remained untill 1/2
after 3 p.m.at this village we purchased a fiew wappato and a Dog for
our Sick men Willard and Bratten who are yet in a weak State. at this
Village I saw two very large elegant Canoes inlaid with Shills, those
Shills I took to be teeth at first View, and the nativs informed
Several of the men that they the teeth of their enemies which they had
killed in War. in examineing of them Closely haveing taken out Several
pices, we found that were Sea Shells which yet contained a part of the
iner ____ they also deckerate their Smaller wooden vessles with those
Shells which have much the appearance of humane teeth, Capt Cook may
have mistaken those Shills verry well for humane teeth without a Close
examination. The Village of these people is the dirtiest and
Stinkingest place I ever Saw in any Shape whatever, and the inhabitants
partake of the carrestick of the Village. we proceeded on through Some
difficult and narrow Channels between the Seal Islands, and the South
Side to an old village on the South Side opposit to the lower War ki a
com village, and Encamped. to this old villg. a very considerable
deposit of the dead at a Short distance below, in the usial and
Customary way of the nativs of this Coast in Canoes raised from the
ground as before described. Soon after we made our Camp 2 Indians
visited us from the opposit Side, one of them Spoke Several words of
English and repeeted the names of the traders, and maney of the Salors.
made 16 Miles
[Lewis, March 25, 1806]
Tuesday March 25th 1806.
The morning being disagreeably cold we remained and took break-fast. at
7 A.M. we set out and continued our rout along the South Coast of the
river against the wind and a strong current, our progress was of course
but slow. at noon we halted and dined. here some Clatsops came to us in
a canoe loaded with dryed anchovies, which they call Olthen, Wappetoe
and Sturgeon. they informed us that they had been up on a trading
voyage to the Skillutes.--I observe that the green bryer which I have
previously mentioned as being common on this river below tide water
retains it's leaves all winter.--the red willow and seven bark begin to
put fourth their leaves.--after dinner we passed the river to a large
Island 2 and continued our rout allong the side of the same about a
mile when we arrived at a Cathlahmah fishing cam of one lodge; here we
found 3 men 2 women and a couple of boys, who from appearances had
remained here some time for the purpose of taking sturgeon, which they
do by trolling. they had ten or douzen very fine sturgeon which had not
been long taken. we offered to purchase some of their fish but they
asked us such an extravegant price that we declined purchase. one of
the men purchased a sea Otterskin at this lodge, for which he gave a
dressed Elkskin and an handkercheif. near this lodge we met some
Cathlahmahs who had been up the river on a fishing excurtion. they had
a good stock of fish on board, but did not seem disposed to sell them.
we remained at this place about half an hour and then continued our
rout up the Island to it's head and passed to the south side. the wind
in the evening was very hard. it was with some difficulty that we could
find a spot proper for an encampment, the shore being a swamp for
several miles back; at length late in the evening opposite to the place
we had encamped on the 6th of November last; we found the entrance of a
small creek which afforded us a safe harbour from the wind and
encamped. the ground was low and moist tho we obtained a tolerable
encampment. here we found another party of Cathlahmahs about 10 in
number who had established a temperary residence for the purpose of
fishing and taking seal. they had taken a fine parcel of sturgeon and
some seal. they gave us some of the fleese of the seal which I found a
great improvement to the poor Elk. here we found Drewyer and the
Feildses who had been seperated from us since morning; they had passed
on the North side of the large Island which was much nearer. the bottom
lands are covered with cottonwood, the growth with a broad leaf which
resembles ash except the leaf. the underbrush red willow, broad leafed
willow, sevenbark, goosburry, green bryer & the larged leafed thorn;
the latter is now in bloom; the natives inform us that it bears a freut
about an inch in diameter which is good to eat.
[Clark, March 25, 1806]
Tuesday 25th of March 1806
Last night and this morning are cool wend hard a head and tide going
out, after an early brackfast we proceeded on about 4 miles and came
too on the South Side to worm and dry our Selves a little. Soon after
we had landed two Indians Came from a War kia cum village on the
opposit Side with 2 dogs and a fiew Wappato to Sell neither of which we
bought. Som Clatsops passed down in a Canoe loaded with fish and
Wappato. as the wind was hard a head and tide against us we Concluded
to delay untill the return of the tide which we expected at 1 oClock,
at which hour we Set out met two Canoes of Clatsops loaded with dried
anchovies and Sturgion which they had taken and purchased above we
crossed over to an Island on which was a Cath lahmah fishing Camp of
one Lodge; here we found 3 man two woman and a couple of boys who must
have for Some time for the purpose of taking Sturgeon which they do by
trolling. they had 10 or 12 very fine Sturgeon which had not been long
taken; we wished to purchase some of their fish but they asked Such
extravegent prices that we declined purchaseing. one of our Party
purchased a Sea otter Skin at this Lodge for which he gave a dressed
Elk Skin & a Handkerchief. we remained at this place about half an hour
and then Continued our rout. the winds in the evening was verry hard,
it was with Some dificuelty that we Could find a Spot proper for an
encampment, the Shore being a Swamp for Several miles back; at length
late in the evening opposit to the place we had encamped on the 6th of
Novr. last; we found the enterance of a Small Creek which offered us a
Safe harbour from the Winds and Encamped. the Ground was low and moist
tho we obtained a tolerable encampment. here we found another party of
Cathlahmahs about 10 in number, who had established a temporary
residence for the purpose of fishing and takeing Seal. they had taken
about 12 Sturgeon and Some Seal. they gave us Some of the flesh of the
Seal which I found a great improvement to the poor Elk. here we found
Drewyer and the 2 Fields who had been Seperated from us Since Morning;
they had passed on the North Side of the large Island which was much
nearest. the bottom lands are Covered with a Species of Arspine, the
Growth with a broad leaf which resembles ash except the leaf. the under
brush red willow, broad leafed Willow, Seven bark, Goose berry, Green
bryor, and the larged leaf thorn; the latter is Now in blume, the
nativs inform us that it bears a fruit about an Inch in diamieter which
is good to eate. the red willow and 7 bark begin to put foth their
leaves. The green bryor which I have before mentioned retains leaves
all winter. made 15 Miles
[Lewis, March 26, 1806]
Wednesday March 26th 1806.
The wind blew so hard this morning that we delayed untill 8 A.M. we
gave a medal of small size to a man by the name of Wal-lal'-le, a
principal man among the Cathlahmahs, he appeared very thankfull for the
honour conferred on him and presented us a large sturgeon. we continued
our rout up the river to an old village on the Stard. side where we
halted for dinner. we met on the way the principal Cheif of the
Cathlahmahs, Sah-hah-woh-cap, who had been up the river on a trading
voyage. he gave us some Wappetoe and fish; we also purchased some of
the latter. soon after we halted for dinner the two Wackiacums who have
been pursuing us since yesterday morning with two dogs for sale,
arrived. they wish tobacco in exchange for their dogs which we are not
disposed to give as our stock is now reduced to a very few carrots. our
men who have been accustomed to the use of this article Tobaco and to
whom we are now obliged to deny the uce of this article appear to
suffer much for the want of it. they substitute the bark of the wild
crab which they chew; it is very bitter, and they assure me they find
it a good substitute for tobacco. the smokers substitute the inner bark
of the red willow and the sacacommis. here our hunters joined us having
killed three Eagles and a large goose. I had now an oportunity of
comparing the bald with the grey Eagle; I found that the greay Eagle
was about 1/4 larger, it's legs and feet were dark while those of the
bald Eagle wer of a fine orrange yellow; the iris of the eye is also of
a dark yellowish brown while that of the other is of a bright silvery
colour with a slight admixture of yellow. after dinner we proceeded on
and passed an Elegant and extensive bottom on the South side and an
island near it's upper point which we call Fanny's Island and bottom.
the greater part of the bottom is a high dry prarie. near the river
towards the upper point we saw a fine grove of whiteoak trees; we saw
some deer and Elk at a distance in the prarie, but did not delay for
the purpose of hunting them. we continued our rout after dinner untill
late in the evening and encamped on the next island above fanny's
Island. we found it difficult to obtain as much wood as answered our
purposes. the hunters who had proceeded on before us after dinner did
not join us this evening. some Indians visited us after dark, but did
not remain long. agreeably to our estimate as we decended the river, we
came 16 m. 23rd, 16 m. the 24th, 15 the 25th, and 18 m. the 26th, tho I
now think that our estimate in decending the river was too short.
[Clark, March 26, 1806]
Wednesday March 26th 1806
The wind blew So hard untill 8 A M. that we detained, we gave a Medal
to a Man by the name of Wal-lal-le a principal man among the Cath lah
mahs, he appeared very thankfull for the honor Confured on him and
presented us with a large Sturgion. we Continued our rout up the river
to an old Village on the South Side where we halted for dinner. we met
on the way the principal Chief of the Cathlahmahs, Sah-hah-wah-cop, who
had been up the river on a trading voyage, he gave us some Wappato and
fish, we also purchased Some Wappato Soon after halted for dinner at an
Old Village on the South point opposit the lower pt. of Fannys Island.
The two Warkiacums who had been pursueing us Since yester day morning
with two dogs for Sale, arrived. they wish Tobacco in exchange for
their dogs which we are not disposed to give, as our Stock is now
reduced to 3 carrots. our men who have been acustomed to the use of
this article, and to Whome we are now obliged to deny the use of this
article appear to Suffer Much for the want of it. they Substitute the
bark of the wild Crab which they Chew; it is very bitter and they
assure me they find it a good Substitute for tobacco. the Smokers
Substitute the iner bark of the redwillow and the saccommis.
here our hunters joined us haveing killed 3 Eagles and a large Wild
goose. I had now an oppertunity of Comparing the bald with the grey
Eagle; I found the grey Eagle about 1/4 largest, its legs and feet were
dark which those of the bald eagle were of a fine orrange yellow; the
iris of the eye is also of a dark yellowish brown, while that of the
Grey is of a light Silvery colour with a Slight admixture of yellow.
after dinner I walked on Shore through an eligant bottom on the South
Side opposit to Fannys Island.
This bottom we also Call fannys bottom it is extensive and an open
leavel plain except near the river bank which is high dry rich oak
land. I saw Some deer & Elk at a distance in the Prarie. we continued
untill late in the evening and encamped on a Small Island near the
Middle of the river haveing made 18 Miles. 2 Indians Visited us this
evining
[Lewis, March 27, 1806]
Thursday March 27th 1806.
We set out early this morning and were shortly after joined by some of
the Skillutes who came along side in a small canoe for the purpose of
trading roots and fish. at 10 A.M. we arrived at two houses of this
nation on the Stard. side where we halted for breakfast. here we
overtook our hunters, they had killed nothing. the natives appeared
extreemly hospitable, gave us dryed Anchovies, Sturgeon, wappetoe,
quamash, and a speceis of small white tuberous roots about 2 inches in
length and as thick as a man's finger; these are eaten raw, are crisp,
milkey, and agreeably flavored. most of the party were served by the
natives with as much as they could eat; they insisted on our remaining
all day with them and hunting the Elk and deer which they informed us
were very abundant in their neighbourhood. but as the weather would not
permit us to dry our canoes in order to pitch them we declined their
friendly invitation, and resumed our voyage at 12 OCk. the principal
village of these Skillutes reside on the lower side of the
Cow-e-lis'-kee river a few miles from it's entrance into the columbia.
these people are said to be numer-ous. in their dress, habits, manners
and language they differ but little from the Clatsops Chinnooks &c.
they have latterly been at war with Chinnooks but peace is said now to
be restored between them, but their intercourse is not yet resumed. no
Chinnooks come above the marshey islands nor do the Skillutes visit the
mouth of the Columbia. the Clatsops, Cathlahmahs and Wackkiacums are
the carriers between these nations being in alliance with both.--The
Coweliskee is 150 yards wide, is deep and from indian Information
navigable a very considerable distance for canoes. it discharges itself
into the Columbia about three miles above a remarkable high rocky vole
which is situated on the N. side of the river by which it is washed on
the South side and is seperated from the Nothern hills of the river by
a wide bottom of several miles to which it is united. I suspect that
this river waters the country lying West of the range of mountains
which pass the columbia between the great falls and rapids, and north
of the same nearly to the low country which commences on the N. W.
coast about Latitude ____ North. above the Skillutes on this river
another nation by the name of the Hul-loo-et-tell reside, who are said
also to be numerous. at the distance Of 2 m. above the village at which
we breakfasted we passed the entrance of this river; we saw several
fishing camps of the Skillutes on both sides of the Columbia, and were
attended all the evening by parties of the natives in their canoes who
visited us for the purpose of trading their fish and roots; we
purchased as many as we wished on very moderate terms; they seemed
perfectly satisfyed with the exchange and behaved themselves in a very
orderly manner. late in the evening we passed our camp of the 5th of
November and encamped about 41/2 above at the commencement of the
bottom land on stard. below Deer Island. we had scarcely landed before
we were visited by a large canoe with eight men; from them we obtained
a dryed fruit which resembled the raspburry and which I beeive to be
the fruit of the large leafed thorn frequently mentioned. it is reather
ascid tho pleasently flavored. I preserved a specemine of this fruit I
fear that it has been baked in the process of drying and if so the seed
will not vegitate. saw the Cottonwood, sweet willow, oak, ash and the
broad leafed ash, the growth which resembles the beach &c. these form
the growth of the bottom lands while the hills are covered almost
exclusively with the various speceis of fir heretofore discribed. the
black Alder appears as well on some parts of the hills as the bottoms.
before we set out from the Skillute village we sent on Gibson's canoe
and Drewyers with orders to proceed as fast as they could to Deer
island and there to hunt and wait our arrival. we wish to halt at that
place to repair our canoes if possible. the indians who visited us this
evening remained but a short time, they passed the river to the oposite
side and encamped. the night as well as the day proved cold wet and
excessively disagreeable. we came 20 miles today.
[Clark, March 27, 1806]
Thursday March 27th 1806.
a rainey disagreeable night rained the greater part of the night we Set
out this morning verry early and proceeded on to two houses of the
Skil-lute Indians on the South Side here we found our hunters who had
Seperated from us last evening. the wind rose and the rain became very
hard Soon after we landed here we were very friendly receved by the
natives who gave all our party as much fish as they Could eate, they
also gave us Wappato and pashaquaw roots to eate prepared in their own
way. also a Species of Small white tuberous roots about 2 inches in
length and as thick as a mans finger, these are eaten raw, or crips,
milkey and agreeably flavoured; the nativs insisted on our remaining
all day with them and hunt the Elk and deer which they informed us was
very abundant in this neighbourhood. but as the weather would not
permit our drying our Canoes in order to pitch them, we declined their
friendly invertation, and resumed our voyage at 12 oClock. The
principal village of the Skil-lutes is Situated on the lower Side of
the Cow-e-lis kee river a fiew miles from it's enterance into the
Columbia. those people are Said to be noumerous, in their dress,
habits, manners and Language they differ but little from the Clatsops,
Chinnooks &c. they have latterly been at war with the Chinnooks, but
peace is Said to be now restored between them, but their inter Course
is not yet restored. no Chinnook Come above the Warkiacums, nor do the
Skillutes visit the Mouth of the Columbia. The Clatsops, Cath lahmahs &
War kia coms are the Carriers between those nations being in alliance
with both-. The Cow e lis kee river is 150 yards wide, is deep and from
Indian information navigable a very considerable distance for canoes.
it discharges itself into the Columbia about 3 miles above a remarkable
knob which is high and rocky and Situated on the North Side of the
Columbia, and Seperated from the Northern hills of the river by a Wide
bottom of Several Miles, to which it united. I Suspect that this river
Waters the Country lying west of a range of Mountains which passes the
Columbia between the Great falls and rapids, and North of the Same
nearly to the low country which Commences on the N W. Coast about
Latitude 4° ____ North. above the Skil lutes on this river another nation
by the name of the Hul-loo-et-tell reside who are Said also to be
numerous. at the distance of 2 miles above the village at which we
brackfast we passed the enterance of this river; we Saw Several fishing
camps of the Skillutes on both Sides of the Columbia, and also on both
Sides of this river. we were attended all the evening by parties of the
nativs in their Canoes who visited us for the purpose of tradeing their
fish and roots; we purchased as maney as we wished on very moderate
terms; they Seamed perfectly Satisfied with the exchange and behaved
themselves in a very orderly manner. late in the evening we passed the
place we Camped the 5th of Novr. and Encamped about 4 miles above at
the Commencement of the Columbian Vally on the Stard. Side below Deer
Island. we had Scercily landed before we were visited by a large Canoe
with 8 men; from them we obtained a dried fruit which resembled the
raspberry and which I beleave is the fruit of the large leafed thorn
frequently mentioned. it is reather ascide tho pleasently flavored. Saw
Cotton wood, Sweet Willow, white oake, ash and the broad leafed ash the
Growth which resembles the bark &c. these form the groth of the bottom
lands, whilst the Hills are almost exclusively Covered with the various
Species of fir heretofore discribed. the black alder appears on Maney
parts of the hills Sides as on the bottoms. before we Set out from the
2 houses where we brackfast we Sent on two Canoes with the best
hunters, with orders to pro ceed as fast as they Could to Deer island
and there to hunt and wait our arrival. we wish to halt at that place
and repare 2 of our Canoes if possible. the Indians that visited us
this evining remained but a Short time, they passed over to an Island
and encamped. the night as well as the day proved Cold wet and
excessively disagreeable. we Came 20 miles in the Course of this day.
[Lewis, March 28, 1806]
Friday March 28th 1806.
This morning we set out very early and at 9 A.M. arrived at the old
Indian Village on Lard side of Deer Island where we found our hunters
had halted and left one man with the two canoes at their camp; they had
arrived last evening at this place and six of them turned out to hunt
very early this morning; by 10 A.M. they all returned to camp having
killed seven deer. these were all of the common fallow deer with the
long tall. I measured the tail of one of these bucks which was upwards
of 17 Inches long; they are very poor, tho they are better than the
black tailed fallow deer of the coast. these are two very distinct
speceis of deer. the Indians call this large Island E-lal-lar or deer
island which is a very appropriate name. the hunters informed us that
they had seen upwards of a hundred deer this morning on this island.
the interior part of the island is praries and ponds, with a heavy
growth of Cottonwood ash and willow near the river. we have seen more
waterfowl on this island than we have previously seen since we left
Fort Clatsop, consisting of geese, ducks, large swan, and Sandhill
crams. I saw a few of the Canvisback duck. the duckinmallard are the
most abundant. one of the hunters killed a duck which appeared to be
the male, it was a size less than the duckinmallard. the head neck as
low as the croop, the back tail and covert of the wings were of a fine
black with a small addmixture of perple about the head and neck, the
belley & breast were white; some long feathers which lie underneath the
wings and cover the thye were of a pale dove colour with fine black
specks; the large feathers of the wings are of a dove colour. the legs
are dark, the feet are composed of 4 toes each of which there are three
in front connected by a web, the 4th is short Hat and placed high on
the heel behind the leg. the tail is composed of 14 short pointed
feathers. the beak of this duck is remarkably wide, and is 2 inches in
length, the upper chap exceeds the under one in both length and width,
insomuch that when the beak is closed the under is entirly concealed by
the upper chap. the tongue, indenture of the margin of the chaps &c.
are like those of the mallard. the nostrils are large longitudinal and
connected. a narrow strip of white garnishes the upper part or base of
the upper chap; this is succeeded by a pale skye blue colour which
occupys about one inch of the chap, is again succeeded by a transverse
stripe of white and the extremity is of a pure black. the eye is
moderately large the puple black and iris of a fine orrange yellow. the
feathers on the crown of the head are longer than those on the upper
part of neck and other parts of the head; these feathers give it the
appearance of being crested. at 1/2 after ten A.M. it became fair, and
we had the canoes which wanted repairing hailed out and with the
assistance of fires which we had kindled for the purpose dryed them
sufficiently to receive the pitch which was immediately put on them; at
3 in the evening we had them compleat and again launched and reloaded.
we should have set out, but as some of the party whom we had permitted
to hunt since we arrived have not yet returned we determined to remain
this evening and dry our beding baggage &c. the weather being fair.
Since we landed here we were visited by a large canoe with ten natives
of the quathlahpahtle nation who are numerous and reside about
seventeen miles above us on the lard. side of the Columbia, at the
entrance of a small river. they do not differ much in their dress from
those lower down and speak nearly the same language, it is in fact the
same with a small difference of accent. we saw a great number of snakes
on this island they were about the size and much the form of the common
garter snake of the Atlantic coast and like that snake are not
poisonous. they have 160 scuta on the abdomen and 71 on the tail. the
abdomen near the head, and jaws as high as the eyes, are of a bluefish
white, which as it receedes from the head becomes of a dark brown. the
field of the back and sides is black. a narrow stripe of a light yellow
runs along the center of the back, on each side of this stripe there is
a range of small transverse oblong spots of a pale brick ret which
gradually deminish as they receede from the head and disappear at the
commencement of the tail. the puple of the eye is black, with a narrow
ring of white bordering it's edge; the ballance of the iris is of a
dark yellowish brown.--the men who had been sent after the deer
returned and brought in the remnent which the Vultures and Eagles had
left us; these birds had devoured 4 deer in the course of a few hours.
the party killed and brought in three other deer a goose some ducks and
an Eagle. Drewyer also killed a tiger cat. Joseph Fields informed me
that the Vultures had draged a large buck which he had killed about 30
yards, had skined it and broken the back bone. we came five miles only
today.
[Clark, March 28, 1806]
Friday March 28th 1806
This morning we Set out verry early and at 9 A.M. arived at an old
Indian Village on the N E side of Deer island where we found our
hunters had halted and left one man with the Canoes at their Camp, they
arrived last evening at this place, and Six of them turned out very
early to hunt, at 10 A.M. they all returned to camp haveing killed
Seven Deer, those were all of the Common fallow Deer with a long tail.
I measured the tail of one of these bucks which was upwards of 17
inches long; they are very poor, tho they are better than the black
tail Species of the Sea coast. those are two very distinct Species of
Deer. the Indians call this large Island E-lal-lar, or Deer Island,
which is a very appropriate name. the hunters informed us that they had
Seen upwards of a hundred Deer this morning on this island. the
interior of this Island is a prarie & ponds, with a heavy growth of
Cotton wood, ash & willow near the river. we have Seen more water fowl
on this island than we have previously Seen Since we left Fort Clatsop,
Consisting of Geese, Ducks, large Swan & Sand Hill crains. I saw a fiew
of the Canvis back duck as I believe. at 1/2 after 10 A.M. it became
fair and we had the Canoes which wanted repareing hauled out and with
the assistance of fires which we had kindled for the purpose dryed them
Sufficiently to receve the pitch which was imedeately put on them; at 3
in the evening we had them Compleated and lanced and reloaded. we
should have Set out but some of the party whome we had permitid to hunt
Since we arrived heve not yet returned. we determined to remain here
this evening and dry our bedding &c. the weather being fair. Since we
landed here we were visited by a large Canoe with ten nativs of the
Quathlahpohtle nation who are numerous and reside about fourteen Miles
above us on the N E. Side of the Columbia above the Enterance of a
Small river which the Indians call Chfih-w&h-na-hi-ooks. we saw a great
number of Snakes on this island; they were about the Size and much the
form of the garter snake of the U. S. the back and Sides are black with
a narrow Stripe of light yellow along the Center of the back, with
small red spots on each Side they have ____ scuta on the abdomin & ____
on the tail and are not poisonous. The men who had been Sent after the
deer returned with four only, the other 4 haveing been eaten entirely
by the Voulturs except the Skin. The men we had been permitted to hunt
this evening killed 3 deer 4 Eagles & a Duck. the deer are remarkably
pore. Some rain in the after part of the day. we only made 5 miles to
day-.
[Lewis, March 29, 1806]
Saturday March 29th 1806.
We set out early this morning and proceeded along the side of Deer
Island; halted at 10 A.M. near its upper point and breakfasted. here we
were joined by three men of the Clan-nah-min-na-mun nation. the upper
point of this Island may be esteemed the lower side or commencement of
the Columbian valley. after breakfast we proceeded on and at the
distance of 14 miles from our encampment of the last evening we passed
a large inlet 300 yds in width. this inlet or arm of the river extends
itself to the South 10 or 12 M. to the hills on that side of the river
and receives the waters of a small creek which heads with killamucks
river, and that of a bayau which passes out of the Columbia about 20
miles above, the large Island thus formed we call wappetoe island. on
this inlet and Island the following nations reside, (viz)
Clan-nah-min-namun, Clacks-star, Cath-lah-cum-up, Clah-in-na-ta,
Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah, and Cath-lah-cam-mah-tup. the two first reside on
the inlet and the others on the bayau and island.--observed a speceies
of small wild onion growing among the moss on the rocks, they resemble
the shives of our gardens and grow remarkably close together forming a
perfect turf; they are quite as agreeably flavoured as the shives. on
the North side of the columbia a little above the entrance of this
inlet a considerable river discharges itself. this stream the natives
call the Cah-wah-na-hi-ooks. it is 150 yards wide and at present
discharges a large body of water, tho from the information of the same
people it is not navigable but a short distance in consequence of falls
and rappids a tribe called the Hul-lu-ettell reside on this river above
it's entr.--at the distance of three miles above the entrance of the
inlet on the N. side behind the lower point of an island we arrived at
the village of the Cath-lah-poh-tle with consists of 14 large wooden
houses. here we arrived at 3 P.M. the language of these people as well
as those on the inlet and wappetoe Island differs in some measure from
the nations on the lower part of the river. tho many of their words are
the same, and a great many others with the difference only of accent.
the form of their houses and dress of the men, manner of living habits
customs &c as far as we could discover are the same. their women wear
their ornaments robes and hair as those do below tho here their hair is
more frequently braded in two tresses and hang over each ear in front
of the body. in stead of the tissue of bark woarn by the women below,
they wear a kind of leather breech clout about the width of a common
pocket handkerchief and reather longer. the two corners of this at one
of the narrow ends are confined in front just above the hips; the other
end is then brought between the legs, compressed into a narrow foalding
bundel is drawn tight and the corners a little spread in front and
tucked at the groin over and arround the part first confind about the
waist. the small robe which dose not reach the waist is their usual and
only garment commonly woarn be side that just mentioned. when the
weather is a litte warm this robe is thrown aside and the leather truss
or breech-clout constitutes the whole of their apparel. this is a much
more indecent article than the tissue of bark, and bearly covers the
mons venes, to which it is drawn so close that the whole shape is
plainly perceived. the floors of most of their houses are on a level
with the surface of the earth tho some of them are sunk two or 3 feet
beneath. the internal arrangement of their houses is the same with
those of the nations below. they are also fond of sculpture. various
figures are carved and painted on the peices which support the center
of the roof, about their doors and beads. they had large quantities of
dryed Anchovies strung on small sticks by the gills and others which
had been first dryed in this manner, were now arranged in large sheets
with strings of bark and hung suspended by poles in the roofs of their
houses; they had also an abundance of sturgeon and wappetoe; the latter
they take in great quantities from the neighbouring bonds, which are
numerous and extensive in the river bottoms and islands. the wappetoe
furnishes the principal article of traffic with these people which they
dispose of to the nations below in exchange for beads cloth and various
articles. the natives of the Sea coast and lower part of the river will
dispose of their most valuable articles to obtain this root. they have
a number of large symeters of Iron from 3 to 4 feet long which hang by
the heads of their beads; the blade of this weapon is thickest in the
center tho thin even there. all it's edges are sharp and it's greatest
width which is about 9 inches from the point is about 4 inches. the
form is thus. this is a formidable weapon. they have heavy bludgeons of
wood made in the same form nearly which I presume they used for the
same purpose before they obtained metal. we purchased a considerable
quantity of wappetoe, 12 dogs, and 2 Sea otter skins of these people.
they were very hospitable and gave us anchovies and wappetoe to eat.
notwithstanding their hospitality if it deserves that appellation, they
are great begers, for we had scarcely finished our repast on the
wappetoe and Anchovies which they voluntarily set before us before they
began to beg. we gave them some small articles as is our custom on
those occasions with which they seemed perfectly satisfyed. we gave the
1st Cheif a small medal, which he soon transfered to his wife. after
remaining at this place 2 hours we set out & continued our rout between
this island, which we now call Cath-lah-poh-tle after the nation, and
the Lard shore. at the distance of 2 miles we encamped in a small
prarie on the main shore, having traveled 19 miles by estimate. the
river rising fast. great numbers of both the large and small swans,
gees and ducks seen today. the former are very abundant in the ponds
where the wappetoe is found, they feed much on this bulb. the female of
the duck which was described yesterday is of a uniform dark brown with
some yellowish brown intermixed in small specks on the back neck and
breast. the garter snakes are innumerable, & are seen entwined arround
each other in large bundles of forty or fifty lying about in different
directions through the praries. the frogs are croaking in the swams and
marhes; their notes do not differ from those of the Atlantic States;
they are not found in the salt marshes near the entrance of the river.
heared a large hooting owl hollowing this evening. saw several of the
crested fishers and some of the large and small black-birds.
[Clark, March 29, 1806]
Saturday March 29th 1806
we Set out very early this morning and proceeded to the head of deer
island and took brackfast. the morning was very cold wind Sharp and
keen off the rainge of Mountains to the East Covered with snow. the
river is now riseing very fast and retards our progress very much as we
are compelled to keep out at Some distance in the Curent to clear the
bushes, and fallin trees and drift logs makeing out from the Shore.
dureing the time we were at Brackfast a Canoe with three Indians of the
Clan-nar-min-na-mon Nation came down, one of those men was dressed in a
Salors jacket & hat & the other two had a blanket each, those people
differ but little either in their dress manners & Language from the
Clatsops & Chinnooks they reside on Wappato Inlet which is on the S W.
side about 12 miles above our encampment of the last night and is about
2 miles from the lower point, four other Tribes also reside on the
inlet and Since which passes on the South W. Side of the Island, the
first tribe from the lower point is the Clannarminamon, on the Island,
the Clackster Nation on the main S. W. Shore. the next Cath-lah-cum-up,
Clhh-in-na-ta, Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah and at Some distance further up is a
tribe called Cath-lah-com-mah-up Those tribes all occupie Single
Villages. we proceeded on to the lower point of the Said island
accompanied by the 3 Indians, & were met by 2 canoes of nativs of the
quath-lah-pah-tal who informed us that the chanel to the N E of the
Island was the proper one. we prosued their advice and Crossed into the
mouth of the Chahwah-na-hi-ooks River which is about 200 yards wide and
a great portion of water into the columbia at this time it being high.
The indians inform us that this river is crouded with rapids after Some
distance up it. Several tribes of the Hul-lu-et-tell Nation reside on
this river. at 3 oClock P.M. we arived at the Quath lah pah tie Village
of 14 Houses on main Shore to the N E. Side of a large island. those
people in their habits manners Customs and language differ but little
from those of the Clatsops and others below. here we exchanged our deer
Skins killed yesterday for dogs, and purchased others to the Number of
12 for provisions for the party, as the deer flesh is too poore for the
Men to Subsist on and work as hard as is necessary. I also purchased a
Sea Otter robe. we purchased wappatoe and Some pashaquar roots. gave a
Medal of the Small Size to the principal Chief, and at 5 oClock
reembarked and proceeded up on the N E. of an Island to an inlet about
1 mile above the village and encamped on a butifull grassy plat, where
the nativs make a portage of their Canoes and Wappato roots to and from
a large pond at a Short dis-tance. in this pond the nativs inform us
they Collect great quantities of pappato, which the womin collect by
getting into the water, Sometimes to their necks holding by a Small
canoe and with their feet loosen the wappato or bulb of the root from
the bottom from the Fibers, and it imedeately rises to the top of the
water, they Collect & throw them into the Canoe, those deep roots are
the largest and best roots. Great numbers of the whistling Swan, Gees
and Ducks in the Ponds. Soon after we landed 3 of the nativs came up
with Wappato to Sell a part of which we purchased. they Continued but a
Short time. our men are recoverey fast. Willard quit well & Bratten
much Stronger. we made 15 miles to day only.
[Lewis, March 30, 1806]
Sunday March 30th 1806.
We got under way very early in the morning, and had not reached the
head of the island before we were met by three men of the
Clan-nah-minna-mun nation one of whom we recognized being the same who
had accompanied us yesterday, and who was very pressing in his
entreaties that we should visit his nation on the inlet S. W. of
Wappetoe island. at the distance of about 2 M. or at the head of the
quathlahpahtle island we met a party of the Claxtars and Cathlahcumups
in two canoes; soon after we were met by several canoes of the
different nations who reside on each side of the river near this place.
Wappetoe Island is about 20 miles long and from 5 to 10 in width; the
land is high and extreemly fertile and intersected in many parts with
ponds which produce great quantities of the sagittaria Sagittifolia,
the bulb of which the natives call wappetoe. there is a heavy growth of
Cottonwood, ash, the large leafed ash and sweet willow on most parts of
this island. the black alder common on the coast has now disappeared.
we passed several fishing camps on wappetoe island and at the distance
of 5 miles above quathlahpotle Island on the N. E. side we halted for
breakfast near the place we had encamped on the evening of the 4th of
November last; here we were visited by several canoes which came off
from two towns situated a little distance above us on wappetoe Island.
the 1st of these tribes about 2 miles above us call themselves
Clan-nah-quah, the other about a mile above them call themselves
Mult-no-mah. from these visiters we purchased a sturgeon and some
wappetoe and pashequa, for which we gave some small fishinghooks. these
like the natives below are great higglers in dealing. at 10 A.M. we set
out and had not proceeded far before we came to a landing place of the
natives where there were several large canoes drawn out on shore and
several natives seting in a canoe apparently waiting our arrival; they
joined the fleet and continued with us some miles. we halted a few
minutes at this landing and the Indians pointed to a village which was
situated abut 2 miles from the river behid a pond lying parallel with
it on the N. E. side nearly opposite to the Clan-nah-quah town. here
they informed us that the Sho-toes resided. here we were joined by
several other canoes of natives from the Island. most of these people
accompanyed us untill 4 in the evening when they all returned; their
principal object I beive was merely to indulge their curiossity in
looking at us. they appeared very friendly, tho most had taken the
precaution to bring with them their warlike implements. we continued
our rout along the N. E. shore of the river to the place we had halted
to dine on the 4th of Novembr opposite to the center of Immage canoe
island where the Indians stole Capt. Clarks tomahawk. here we encamped
a little before sunset in a beautifull prarie above a large pond having
traveled 23 M. I took a walk of a few miles through the prarie and an
open grove of oak timber which borders the prarie on the back part. I
saw 4 deer in the course of my walk and much appearance of both Elk and
deer. Joseph feields who was also out a little above me saw several Elk
and deer but killed none of them; they are very shye and the annual
furn which is now dry and abundant in the bottoms makes so much nois in
passing through it that it is extreemly difficult to get within reach
of the game. Fends killed and brought with him a duck. about 10 P.M. an
indian alone in a small canoe arrived at our camp, he had some
conversation with the centinel and soon departed. The natives who
inhabit this valley are larger and reather better made than those of
the coast. like those people they are fond of cold, hot, & vapor baths
of which they make frequent uce both in sickness and in health and at
all seasons of the year. they have also a very singular custom among
them of baithing themselves allover with urine every morning. The
timber and apearance of the country is much as before discribed. the up
lands are covered almost entirely with a heavy growth of fir of several
speceis like those discribed in the neighbourhood of Fort Clatsop; the
white cedar is also found hereof large size; no white pine nor pine of
any other kind. we had a view of mount St. helines and Mount Hood. the
1st is the most noble looking object of it's kind in nature. it's
figure is a regular cone. both these mountains are perfectly covered
with snow; at least the parts of them which are visible. the highlands
in this valley are rolling tho by no means too steep for cultivation
they are generally fertile of a dark rich loam and tolerably free of
stones. this valley is terminated on it's lower side by the mountanous
country which borders the coast, and above by the rainge of mountains
which pass the Columbia between the great falls and rapids of the
Columbia river. it is about 70 miles wide on a direct line and it's
length I beleive to be very extensive tho how far I cannot determine.
this valley would be copetent to the mantainance of 40 or 50 thousand
souls if properly cultivated and is indeed the only desireable
situation for a settlement which I have seen on the West side of the
Rocky mountains.
[Clark, March 30, 1806]
Sunday March 30th 1806
we got under way verry early and had not proceeded to the head of the
island before we met with the three men of the Clan-nar-min-a-mon's who
met us yesterday brackfast at the upper point of the Island we met
Several of the Clackstar and Cath-lah-cum-up in two canoes. Soon after
we were overtaken by Several Canoes of different tribes who reside on
each Side of the river the three above Tribes and the Cldh-in-na-ta
cath-lahnah-qui-up & Cath-lah-com-mah-tup reside on each Side of
Wappato inlet and back of Wappato Island which Island is formed by a
Small Chanel which passes from the Lower part of Image Canoe Island
into an inlet which makes in from the S W. Side, and receves the water
of a Creek which heads with the Kil a mox River. this wappato Island is
about 18 or 20 Miles long and in places from 6 to 10 miles wide high &
furtile with ponds on different parts of it in which the nativs geather
Wappato. nearly opposit the upper point of the Isld. behing which we
encamped last night, or on the Wappato Isld. is Several Camps of the
nativs catching Sturgion. about 5 miles Still higher up and on the N E.
Side we halted for brackfast at the place which We had encamped the 4th
of November last. here we were visited by several canoes of Indians
from two Towns a Short distance above on the Wappato Island. the 1st of
those Tribes Call themselves Clan-nah-quah and Situated about 2 miles
above us, the other about a mile above Call themselves Mult-no-mah we
purchased of those visitors a Sturgion and Some Wappato & quarmarsh
roots for which we gave Small fishing hooks. at 10 a.m. we Set out and
had not proceeded far before we came to a landing place where there was
Several large canoes hauled up, and Sitting in a canoe, appearantly
waiting our arival with a view to join the fleet indian who was then
along Side of us. this man informed he was a Shoto and that his nation
resided a little distance from the river. we landed and one of the
indians pointed to the Shoto village which is Situated back of Pond
which lies parrelal with the river on the N E. Side nearly opposit the
Clan-nah quah village. here we were also joined by Several Canoes
loaded with the natives from the Island who Continued to accompany us
untill about 4 oClock when they all returned and we proceeded on to the
place the Indians Stole my Tomahawk 4th Novr. last and Encamped in a
Small Prarie above a large Pond on N. E and opposit the Center of image
Canoe Island. capt Lewis walked out and Saw Several deer. Jo. Field
Shot at Elk he killed and brought in a fine duck. Soon after I had got
into bead an Indian came up alone in a Small Canoe. Those tribes of
Indians who inhabit this vally differ but little in either their dress,
manners, habuts and language from the Clat Sops Chinnooks, and others
on the Sea coast. they differ in a fiew words and a little in the
accent. The men are Stouter and much better formed than those of the
Sea Coast. more of their womin ware their hair braded in two tresses
and hang over each ear. in Stead of the tissue of bark worn by the
women below, they ware a kind of leather breech clout as before
described as worn by the Womin at the enterance of Lewis's river-the
width of a Common pocket Handkerchief or Something Smaller and longer.
the two Corners of this at one of the narrow ends are confined in front
just above the hips; the other Side is then brought between their legs,
Compressed into a narrow folding bundle is drawn tight, and the Corners
a little Spred in front tucked at the ends over and around the part
first confined about the Waiste. a Small roab which does not reach the
Waiste is their usial and only garment commonly worn besides this just
mentioned. when the weather is a little worm the roab is thrown aside,
and the latter truss or breach clout constitutes the whole of their
apparreal. this is a much more indesant article than the tissue of
bark, and bearly covers the Mons versus, to which it is drawn So close
that the whole Shape is plainly perseived. The Houses are Similar to
those already descrbed. they are fond of Sculpture. various figures are
carved and painted on the pieces which Support the Center of the roof
about their dotes and beads. They are well Supplied with anchoves
Sturgion and Wappato. The latter furnishes the principal article of
traffic with those Tribes which they despose of to the nativs below in
exchange for beeds, Cloath and Various articles. the nativs of the Sea
coast and lower part of this river will dispose of their most valueable
articles to obtain this root. I saw in Several houses of the Cath lah
poh tie Village large Symeters of Iron from 3 to 4 feet long which
hangs by the heads of their beads; the blade of this weapon is thickest
in the Center tho thin even there, all it's edges are Sharp and its
greatest width which is about 9 inches from the point, is about 4
inches. the form is this this is a formable weapon. they have heavy
bludgeons of wood made in the Same form nearly which I prosume they use
for the Same purpose before they obtained metal. we made 22 Miles only
to day the wind and a Strong current being against us all day, with
rain. discovered a high mountain S E. Covered with Snow which we call
Mt. Jefferson.
[Lewis, March 31, 1806]
Monday March 31st 1806
We set out early this morning and proceeded untill 8 A.M. when we
Landed on the N. side opposite one large wooden house of the Shah-ha-la
nation and took breakfast. when we decended the river in November last
there were 24 other lodges formed of Straw and covered with bark near
this house; these lodges are now distroyed and the inhabitants as the
indians inform us have returned to the great rapids of this river which
is their permanent residence; the house which remains is inhabited;
soon after we landed two canoes came over from this house with 4 men
and a woman. they informed us that their relations who were with them
last fall usuly visit them at that season for the purpose of hunting
deer and Elk and collecting wappetoe and that they had lately returned
to the rapids I presume to prepare for the fishing season as the Salmon
will begin to run shortly.--this morning we overtook the man who had
visited our camp last night he had a fine sturgeon in his canoe which
he had just taken. the Sagittaria Sagittifolia dose not grow on this
river above the Columbian valley.--These indians of the rapids
frequently visit this valley at every season of the year for the
purpose of collecting wappetoe which is abundant and appears never to
be out of season at any time of the year. at 10 A.M. we resumed our
march accompanyed by three men in a canoe; one of these fellows
appeared to be a man of some note among them; he was dressed in a
salor's jacket which was decorated in his own fassion with five rows of
large and small buttons in front and some large buttons on the pocket
flaps. they are remarkably fond of large brass buttons. these people
speak a different language from those below tho in their dress habits
manners &c they differ but little from the quathlahpohtles. their women
wear the truss as those do of all the nations residing from the
quathlahpohtles to the entrance of Lewis's river. they differ in the
manner of intering their dead. they lay them horizontally on boards and
cover them with mats, in a valt formed with boards like the roof of a
hose supported by forks and a single pole laid horizontally on those
forks. many bodies are deposited in the same valt above ground. these
are frequently laid one on the other, to the hight of three or for
corps. they deposit with them various articles of which they die
possessed, and most esteem while living. their canoes are frequently
broken up to strengthen the vault.--these people have a few words the
same with those below but the air of the language is intirely
different, insomuch, that it may be justly deemed a different language.
their women wear longer and larger robes generally, than those below;
these are most commonly made of deer skins dressed with the hair on
them. we continued our rout along the N. side of the river passed
diamond Island and whitebrant island to the lower point of a handsom
prarie opposite to the upper entrance of the Quicksand river; here we
encamped having traveled 25 miles today. a little below the upper point
of the White brant Island Seal river discharges itself on the N. side.
it is about 80 yards wide, and at present discharges a large body of
water. the water is very clear. the banks are low and near the Columbia
overflow and form several large ponds. the natives inform us that it is
of no great extent and heads in the mountains just above us. at the
distance of one mile from the entrance of this stream it forks, the two
branches being nearly of the same size. they are both obstructed with
falls and innumerable rappids, insomuch that it cannot be navigated. as
we could not learn any name of the natives for this stream we called it
Seal river from the great abundance of those animals which we saw about
it's entrance. we determined to remain at our present encampment a day
or two for the several purposes of examining quicksand river making
some Celestial observations, and procuring some meat to serve us as far
as the falls or through the Western mountains where we found the game
scarce as we decended.--the three indians who accompanied us last
evening encamped a little distance above us and visited our camp where
they remained untill 9 P.M. in the entrance of Seal river I saw a
summer duck or wood duck as they are sometimes called. this is the same
with those of our country and is the first I have seen since I entered
the rocky mountains last summer.--our hunters who had halted a little
below Seal river in consequence of the waves being too high for their
small canoe did not join us untill after dark. Drewyer who was out
below Seal river informed us that game was very scarce in that quarter,
a circumstance which we did not expect.
[Clark, March 31, 1806]
Monday March 31st 1806
we Set out this morning and proceeded untill 8 oClock when we landed on
the N. Side opposit one large House of the Shah-ha-la Nation near this
house at the time we passed on the 4th of November last was Situated 25
houses, 24 of them were built of Straw & Covered with bark as before
mentioned. those of that description are all distroyed, the one built
of wood only remains and is inhabited. we overtook the man whome came
to our Camp last night and Soon after we landed two canoes Came over
from the opposit Side with 5 men & a woman those people informed us
that their relations who was with them last fall reside at the Great
rapids, and were down with them last fall gathering Wappato which did
not grow above, and also killing deer, that they Secured the bark of
the houses which they then lived in against their return next fall.
they also inform us that their relations also visit them frequently in
the Spring to collect this root which is in great quantities on either
Side of the Columbia. at 10 A. M we proceeded on accompanied by one
Canoe and three men, one of them appeared to be a man of Some note,
dressed in a Salors jacket which had 5 rows of large & Small buttons on
it. Those people Speak a differant language from those below, with Some
fiew Words the Same, the accent entirely different. their dress and
Manners appear very Similar. the women ware the truss or breach clout
and Short robes, and men roabs only passed up on the N. Side of White
brant Island near the upper point of Which a Small river falls in about
80 yards wide and at this time discharges a great quantity of water.
the nativs inform us that this river is very Short and heads in the
range of mountains to the N E of its enterance into the Columbia the
nativs haveing no name which we could learn for this little river we
Call it Seal river from the great number of those Animals which
frequents its mouth. this river forks into two nearly equal branches
about 1 mile up and each branch is crouded with rapids & falls. we
proceed on about 2 miles above the enterance of this Seacalf river and
imedeately opposit the upper mouth of the quick Sand river we formed a
Camp in a Small Prarie on the North Side of the Columbia where we
intend to delay one or two days to make Some Selestial observations, to
examine quick sand river, and kill Some meat to last us through the
Western Mountains which Commences a fiew miles above us and runs in a
N. N. W. & S. S. E. derection. The three Indians encamped near us and
visited our fire we entered into a kind of a Conversation by signs, of
the Country and Situation of the rivers. they informed us that Seal
river headed in the mountains at no great distance. quick Sand river
was Short only headed in Mt. Hood which is in view and to which he
pointed. this is a circumstance we did not expect as we had heretofore
deemed a considerable river. Mount Hood bears East from this place and
is distant from this place about 40 miles. this information if true
will render it necessary to examine the river below on the South Side
behind the image canoe and Wappato islands for some river which must
water the Country weste of the western mountains to the Waters of
California. The Columbia is at present on a Stand and we with
dificuelty made 25 miles to day-.
Part III: Journal Entries of March 1806
- Details
- Written by: Meriwether Lewis and and William Clark
- Category: The Journals of Lewis and Clark 1804-1806