[Lewis, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop 1806.
January 1st Tuesday.
This morning I was awoke at an early hour by the discharge of a volley
of small arms, which were fired by our party in front of our quarters
to usher in the new year; this was the only mark of rispect which we
had it in our power to pay this celebrated day. our repast of this day
tho better than that of Christmass, consisted principally in the
anticipation of the 1st day of January 1807, when in the bosom of our
friends we hope to participate in the mirth and hilarity of the day,
and when with the zest given by the recollection of the present, we
shall completely, both mentally and corporally, enjoy the repast which
the hand of civilization has prepared for us. at present we were
content with eating our boiled Elk and wappetoe, and solacing our
thirst with our only beverage pure water. two of our hunters who set
out this morning reterned in the evening having killed two bucks elk;
they presented Capt. Clark and myself each a marrow-bone and tonge, on
which we suped. visited today by a few of the Clotsops who brought some
roots and burries for the purpose of trading with us. we were uneasy
with rispect to two of our men, Willard and Wiser, who were dispatched
on the 28th ulto. with the saltmakers, and were directed to return
immediately; their not having returned induces us to believe it
probable that they have missed their way.--our fourtification being now
completed we issued an order for the more exact and uniform dicipline
and government of the garrison. (see orderly book 1st January 1806).-
[Clark, January 1, 1806]
January 1st Wednesday 1806
This morning proved cloudy with moderate rain, after a pleasent worm
night during which there fell but little rain--This morning at Day we
wer Saluted from the party without, wishing us a "hapy new year" a
Shout and discharge of their arms--no Indians to be Seen this morning-
they left the place of their encampment dureing the last night The work
of our houses and fort being now Complete, we Ishued an order in which
we pointed out the rules & regulations for the government of the Party
in respect to the Indians as also for the Safty and protection of our
Selves &c.
two Clotsops Came with a mat and Some fiew roots of Cut wha mo, for
which they asked a file they did not trade but Continued all night
Sent out 2 hunters this morning who returned, haveing killed 2 Elk
about 3 miles distant, Some fiew Showers of rain in the Course of this
day. Cloudy all the day.
[Clark, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop 1806
Wednesday the 1st of January
This morning I was awoke at an early hour by the discharge of a Volley
of Small arms, which were fired by our party in front of our quarters
to usher in the new year, this was the only mark of respect which we
had it in our power to pay this Selibrated day. our repast of this day
tho better than that of Christmas Consisted principally in the
anticipation of the 1st day of January 1807, when in the bosom of our
friends we hope to participate in the mirth and hilarity of the day,
and when with the relish given by the recollection of the present, we
Shall Completely, both mentally and Corparally, the repast which the
hand of Civilization has produced for us. at present we were Content
with eating our boiled Elk and Wappato, and Solacing our thirst with
our only beverage pure water. two of our hunters who Set out this
morning returned in the evening haveing killed two Buck Elks; they
presented Capt. Lewis and my Self each a marrow bone and tongue on
which we Suped--we are visited to day by a fiew of the Clatsops by
water they brought some roots and berries for the purpose of tradeing
with us. our fortification being now Complete we issue an order for the
more exact and uniform dicipline and government of the garrison. (See
orderly book Jany 2d 1806)
[Lewis, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop, January 1st 1806
The fort being now completed, the Commanding officers think proper to
direct that the guard shall as usual consist of one Sergeant and three
privates, and that the same be regularly relieved each morning at sun
rise. The post of the new guard shall be in the room of the Sergeants
rispectivly commanding the same. the centinel shall be posted, both day
and night, on the parade in front of the commanding offercers quarters;
tho should he at any time think proper to remove himself to any other
part of the fort, in order the better to inform himself of the desighns
or approach of any party of savages, he is not only at liberty, but is
hereby required to do so. It shall be the duty of the centinel also to
announce the arrival of all parties of Indians to the Sergeant of the
Guard, who shall immediately report the same to the Commanding officers.
The Commanding Officers require and charge the Garrison to treat the
natives in a friendly manner; nor will they be permitted at any time,
to abuse, assault or strike them; unless such abuse assault or stroke
be first given by the natives. nevertheless it shall be right for any
individual, in a peaceable manner, to refuse admittance to, or put out
of his room, any native who may become troublesome to him; and should
such native refuse to go when requested, or attempt to enter their
rooms after being forbidden to do so; it shall be the duty of the
Sergeant of the guard on information of the same, to put such native
out of the fort and see that he is not again admitted during that day
unless specially permitted; and the Sergeant of the guard may for this
purpose imploy such coercive measures (not extending to the taking of
life) as shall at his discretion be deemed necessary to effect the same.
When any native shall be detected in theft, the Sergt. of the guard
shall immediately inform the Commanding offercers of the same, to the
end that such measures may be pursued with rispect to the culprit as
they shall think most expedient.
At sunset on each day, the Sergt. attended by the interpreter Charbono
and two of his guard, will collect and put out of the fort, all Indians
except such as may specially be permitted to remain by the Commanding
offercers, nor shall they be again admitted untill the main gate be
opened the ensuing morning.
At Sunset, or immediately after the Indians have been dismissed, both
gates shall be shut, and secured, and the main gate locked and continue
so untill sunrise the next morning; the water-gate may be used freely
by the Garrison for the purpose of passing and repassing at all times,
tho from sunset, untill sunrise, it shall be the duty of the centinel,
to open the gate for, and shut it after all persons passing and
repassing, suffering the same never to remain unfixed long than is
absolutely necessary.
It shall be the duty of the Sergt. of the guard to keep the kee of the
Meat house, and to cause the guard to keep regular fires therein when
the same may be necessary; and also once at least in 24 hours to visit
the canoes and see that they are safely secured; and shall further on
each morning after he is relieved, make his report verbally to the
Commandg officers.
Each of the old guard will every morning after being relieved furnish
two loads of wood for the commanding offercers fire.
No man is to be particularly exempt from the duty of bringing meat from
the woods, nor none except the Cooks and Interpreters from that of
mounting guard.
Each mess being furnished with an ax, they are directed to deposit in
the room of the commanding offercers all other public tools of which
they are possessed; nor shall the same at any time hereafter be taken
from the said deposit without the knoledge and permission of the
commanding officers; and any individual so borrowing the tools are
strictly required to bring the same back the moment he has ceased to
use them, and no case shall they be permited to keep them out all night.
Any individual selling or disposing of any tool or iron or steel
instrument, arms, accoutrements or ammunicion, shall be deemed guilty
of a breach of this order, and shall be tryed and punished
accordingly.the tools loaned to John Shields are excepted from the
restrictions of this order.
Meriwether Lewis
Capt. 1st U.S. Regt.
Wm. Clark
Capt. &c
[Lewis, January 2, 1806]
Thursday, January 2nd 1806
Sent out a party of men and brought in the two Elk which were killed
yesterday. Willard and Wiser have not yet returned nor have a party of
hunters returned who set out on the 26th Ulto. the Indians who visited
yesterday left us at 1 P M today after having disposed of their roots
and berries for a few fishinghooks and some other small articles. we
are infested with swarms of flees already in our new habitations; the
presumption is therefore strong that we shall not devest ourselves of
this intolerably troublesome vermin during our residence here. The
large, and small or whistling swan, sand hill Crane, large and small
gees, brown and white brant, Cormorant, duckan mallard, Canvisback
duck, and several other species of ducks, still remain with us; tho I
do not think that they are as plenty as on our first arrival in the
neighbourhood. Drewyer visited his traps and took an otter. the fur of
both the beaver and otter in this country are extreemly good; those
annamals are tolerably plenty near the sea coast, and on the small
Creeks and rivers as high as the grand rappids, but are by no means as
much so as on the upper part of the Missouri.
[Clark, January 2, 1806]
January 2nd Thursday 1806.
A Cloudy rainey morning after a wet night. dispatched 12 Men for the
two Elk Killed yesterday which they brought in at 11 oClock. the day
proved Cloudy and wet, the Indians left us at 1 oClock P. M, Drewyer
visited his traps which had one otter in one of them. The flees are
verry troublesom, our huts have alreadey Sworms of those disagreeable
insects in them, and I fear we Shall not get rid of them dureing our
delay at this place.
[Clark, January 2, 1806]
Thursday 2nd of January 1806.
Sent out a party of men and brought in the two Elk which was killed
yesterday. Willard & Wiser have not yet returned nor have a party of
hunters who Set out on the 26th ulto the Indians who visited us
yesterday left us at 1 P. M to day after haveing disposed of their
roots and berries for a fiew fishing hooks and Some other Small
articles. we are infestd. with Sworms of flees already in our new
habatations; the presumption is therefore Strong that we Shall not
devest our Selves of this intolerably troublesom vermin dureing our
residence here. The large, & Small or whistling Swan, Sand hill crane,
large & Small Gees, brown and white brant, Comorant, Duckanmallard,
canvis back duck, and Several other Species of Ducks Still remain with
us; tho I doe not think they are as plenty as on our first arrival in
the neighbourhood. Drewyer visit his traps at took out an otter. the
fur of both the beaver and otter as also the rackoon in this countrey
are extreemly good; those animals are tolerably plenty near the Sea
coast, on the Small creeks and rivers as high as the grand Rapids.
[Lewis, January 3, 1806]
Friday January 3d 1806.
At 11 A.M. we were visited by our near neighbours, Chief or Tia,
Como-wool; alias Conia and six Clatsops. they brought for sale some
roots buries and three dogs also a small quantity of fresh blubber.
this blubber they informed us they had obtained from their neighbours
the Callamucksz who inhabit the coast to the S. E. near whose vilage a
whale had recently perished. this blubber the Indians eat and esteeme
it excellent food. our party from necessaty having been obliged to
subsist some lenth of time on dogs have now become extreemly fond of
their flesh; it is worthy of remark that while we lived principally on
the flesh of this anamal we were much more healthy strong and more
fleshey than we had been since we left the Buffaloe country. for my own
part I have become so perfectly reconciled to the dog that I think it
an agreeable food and would prefer it vastly to lean Venison or Elk. a
small Crow, the blue crested Corvus and the smaller corvus with a white
brest, the little brown ren, a large brown sparrow, the bald Eagle and
the beatifull Buzzard of the columbia still continue with us.--Sent
Sergt. Gass and George Shannon to the saltmakers who are somewhere on
the coast to the S. W. of us, to enquire after Willard and Wiser who
have not yet returned. Reubin Fields Collins and Pots the hunters who
set out on the 26th Ulto. returned this evening after dark. they
reported that they had been about 15 Miles up the river at the head of
the bay just below us and had hunted the country from thence down on
the East side of the river, even to a considerable distance from it and
had proved unsuccessful) having killed one deer and a few fowls, barely
as much as subsisted them. this reminded us of the necessity of taking
time by the forelock, and keep out several parties while we have yet a
little meat beforehand.I gave the Chief Comowooll a pare of sattin
breechies with which he appeared much pleased.
[Clark, January 3, 1806]
January 3rd Friday 1806
The Sun rose fair this morning for the first time for Six weeks past,
the Clouds Soon obscure it from our view, and a Shower of rain
Suckceededlast night we had Sharp lightening a hard thunder Suckceeded
with heavy Showers of hail, and rain, which Continud with intervales of
fair moon Shine dureing the night. Sent out Sergt. Gass & 2 men to the
Salt makers with a vew to know what is the Cause of the delay of 2 of
our party Willard & Wiser who we are uneasy about, as they were to have
been back 6 days ago.
[Clark, January 3, 1806]
Friday the 3rd January 1806
At 11 A. m. we were visited by our near neighbour Chief (or Tia) Co mo
wool alias Conia and Six Clat sops. they brought for Sale Some roots
berries and 3 Dogs also a Small quantity of fresh blubber. this blubber
they informed us they had obtained from their neighbours the Cal la mox
who inhabit the coast to the S. E near one of their Villages a Whale
had recently perished. this blubber the Indians eat and esteem it
excellent food. our party from necescity have been obliged to Subsist
Some length of time on dogs have now become extreamly fond of their
flesh; it is worthey of remark that while we lived principally on the
flesh of this animal we wer much more helthy Strong and more fleshey
then we have been Sence we left the Buffalow Country. as for my own
part I have not become reconsiled to the taste of this animal as yet. a
Small Crow, the blue Crested Corvus and the Smaller Corvus with a white
breast, the little brown ren, and a large brown Sparrow, the bald
Eagle, and the butifull Buzzard of the Columbia Still Continue with us,
Send Sarjt. Gass and G. Shannon to the Salt makers who are on the Sea
Coast to the S, W. of us, to enquire after Willard & Wiser who have not
yet returned. R. Field, potts & Collins the hunters who Set out on the
28th ulto. returned this evening after dark. they reported that they
had been about 15 miles up the river which falls into Meriwethers Bay
to the East of us, and had hunted the Country a considerable distance
to East, and had proved unsucksesfull haveing killed one Deer and a
fiew fowls, bearly as much as Subsisted them. this reminded us of the
necessity of takeing time by the forelock, and keep out Several parties
while we have yet a little meat beforehand. Capt Lewis gave the Cheif
Cania a par of Sattin breechies with which he appeared much pleased.
[Lewis, January 4, 1806]
Saturday January 4th 1806.
Comowooll and the Clatsops who visited us yesterday left us in the
evening. These people the Chinnooks and others residing in this
neighbourhood and speaking the same language have been very friendly to
us; they appear to be a mild inoffensive people but will pilfer if they
have an opportuny to do so where they conceive themselves not liable to
detection. they are great higlers in trade and if they conceive you
anxious to purchase will be a whole day bargaining for a handfull of
roots; this I should have thought proceeded from their want of
knowledge of the comparitive value of articles of merchandize and the
fear of being cheated, did I not find that they invariably refuse the
price first offered them and afterwards very frequently accept a
smaller quantity of the same article; in order to satisfy myself on
this subject I once offered a Chinnook my watch two knives and a
considerable quantity of beads for a small inferior sea Otter's skin
which I did not much want, he immediately conceived it of great value,
and refused to barter except I would double the quantity of beads; the
next day with a great deal of importunity on his part I received the
skin in exchange for a few strans of the same beads he had refused the
day before. I therefore believe this trait in their character proceeds
from an avaricious all grasping disposition. in this rispect they
differ from all Indians I ever became acquainted with, for their
dispositions invariably lead them to give whatever they are possessed
off no matter how usefull or valuable, for a bauble which pleases their
fancy, without consulting it's usefullness or value. nothing
interesting occurred today, or more so, than our wappetoe being all
exhausted.
[Clark, January 4, 1806]
Saturday 4th January 1806
Comowool and the Clatsops who visited us yesterday left us in the
morning. Those people the Chinnook and others resideing in this
neighbourhood and Speaking the Same language have been very friendly to
us; they appear to be a mild inoffensive people but will pilfer if they
have an oppertunity to do So when they Conceive themselves not liable
to detection. they are great higlers in trade and if they Conceive you
anxious to purchase will be a whole day bargaining for a hand full of
roots; this I Should have thought proceeded from their want of
Knowledge of the Comparitive value of articles of merchindize and the
fear of being Cheated, did I not find that they invariably refuse the
price first offered them and afterwards very frequently accept a
Smaller quantity of the Same article; in order to Satisfy myself on
this point, I once offered a Clatsop man my watch a knife, a Dollar of
the Coin of U State and hand full of beeds, for a Small Sea otter Skin,
which I did not much want, he immediately Conceived it of great value,
and refused to Sell unless I would give as maney more beads; the next
day with a great deel of importunity on his part we receved the Skin in
exchange for a fiew Strans of the Same beeds he had refused the day
before. I therefore beleive this treat in their Charector proceeds from
an avericious all grasping dis-position. in this respect they differ
from all Indians I ever became acquainted with, for their dispositions
invariably lead them to give what ever they are possessed off no matter
how usefull or valueable, for a bauble which pleases their fancy,
without Consulting its usefullness or value. nothing occured to day, or
more So, than our wappato being all exhausted.
[Lewis, January 5, 1806]
Sunday January 5th 1806.
At 5 P.M. Willard and Wiser returned, they had not been lost as we
apprehended. they informed us that it was not untill the fifth day
after leaving the Fort that they could find a convenient place for
making salt; that they had at length established themselves on the
coast about 15 Miles S. W. from this, near the lodge of some Killamuck
families; that the Indians were very friendly and had given them a
considerable quantity of the blubber of a whale which perished on the
coast some distance S. E. of them; part of this blubber they brought
with them, it was white & not unlike the fat of Poark, tho the texture
was more spongey and somewhat coarser. I had a part of it cooked and
found it very pallitable and tender, it resembled the beaver or the dog
in flavour. it may appear somewhat extraordinary tho it is a fact that
the flesh of the beaver and dog possess a very great affinity in point
of flavour. These lads also informed us that J. Fields, Bratton and
Gibson (the Salt makers) had with their assistance erected a
comfortable camp killed an Elk and several deer and secured a good
stock of meat; they commenced the making of salt and found that they
could obtain from 3 quarts to a gallon a day; they brought with them a
specemine of the salt of about a gallon, we found it excellent, fine,
strong, & white; this was a great treat to myself and most of the
party, having not had any since the 20th ultmo.; I say most of the
party, for my friend Capt. Clark declares it to be a mear matter of
indifference with him whether he uses it or not; for myself I must
confess I felt a considerable inconvenience from the want of it; the
want of bread I consider as trivial provided, I get fat meat, for as to
the species of meat I am not very particular, the flesh of the dog the
horse and the wolf, having from habit become equally formiliar with any
other, and I have learned to think that if the chord be sufficiently
strong, which binds the soul and boddy together, it dose not so much
matter about the materials which compose it. Colter also returned this
evening unsuccessfull from the chase, having been absent since the 1st
Inst.--Capt. Clark determined this evening to set out early tomorrow
with two canoes and 12 men in quest of the whale, or at all events to
purchase from the Indians a parcel of the blubber, for this purpose he
prepared a small assortment of merchandize to take with him.
[Clark, January 5, 1806]
Sunday 5th of January 1806
At 5 p.m.Willard and Wiser returned, they had not been lost as we
expected. they informd us that it was not untill the 5th day after
leaveing the fort, that they Could find a Convenient place for makeing
Salt; that they had at length established themselves on the Sea Coast
about 15 miles S. W. from this, near the houses of Some Clat Sop & Kil
a mox families; that the Indians were very friendly and had given them
a considerable quantity of the blubber of the whale which perished on
the Coast Some distance S. E. of them, it was white and not unlike the
fat of Pork, tho the texture was more Spungey and Somewhat Coarser. we
had part of it Cooked and found it very pallitable and tender, it
resembles the beaver in flavour. those men also informed us that the
Salt makers with their assistance had erected a Comfortable Camp, had
killed an Elk and Several Deer and Secured a good Stock of Meat; they
Commenced the makeing of Salt and found that they Could make from 3
quarts to a gallon a day; they brought with them a Specimen of the
Salt, of about a gallon, we found it excellent white & fine, but not So
Strong as the rock Salt or that made in Kentucky or the Western parts
of the U, States--this Salt was a great treat to most of the party,
haveing not had any Since the 20th ulto. as to my Self I care but
little whether I have any with my meat or not; provided the meat fat,
haveing from habit become entirely cearless about my diat, and I have
learned to think that if the Cord be Sufficiently Strong which binds
the Soul and boddy together, it does not So much matter about the
materials which Compose it.
Colter returned this evening unsecksessfull from the Chase, haveing
been absent since the 1st inst.
I determine to Set out early tomorrow with two canoes & 12 men in quest
of the whale, or at all events to purchase from the indians a parcel of
the blubber, for this purpose I made up a Small assortment of
merchindize, and directed the men to hold themselves in readiness &c.
[Lewis, January 6, 1806]
Monday January 6th 1806.
Capt Clark set out after an early breakfast with the party in two
canoes as had been concerted the last evening; Charbono and his Indian
woman were also of the party; the Indian woman was very impotunate to
be permited to go, and was therefore indulged; she observed that she
had traveled a long way with us to see the great waters, and that now
that monstrous fish was also to be seen, she thought it very hard she
could not be permitted to see either (she had never yet been to the
Ocean).
The Clatsops, Chinnooks, Killamucks &c. are very loquacious and
inquisitive; they possess good memories and have repeated to us the
names capasities of the vessels &c of many traders and others who have
visited the mouth of this river; they are generally low in stature,
proportionably small, reather lighter complected and much more illy
formed than the Indians of the Missouri and those of our frontier; they
are generally cheerfull but never gay. with us their conversation
generally turns upon the subjects of trade, smoking, eating or their
women; about the latter they speak without reserve in their presents,
of their every part, and of the most formiliar connection. they do not
hold the virtue of their women in high estimation, and will even
prostitute their wives and daughters for a fishinghook or a stran of
beads. in common with other savage nations they make their women
perform every species of domestic drudgery. but in almost every species
of this drudgery the men also participate. their women are also
compelled to geather roots, and assist them in taking fish, which
articles form much the greatest part of their subsistance;
notwithstanding the survile manner in which they treat their women they
pay much more rispect to their judgment and oppinions in many rispects
than most indian nations; their women are permitted to speak freely
before them, and sometimes appear to command with a tone of authority;
they generally consult them in their traffic and act in conformity to
their opinions. I think it may be established as a general maxim that
those nations treat their old people and women with most differrence
and rispect where they subsist principally on such articles that these
can participate with the men in obtaining them; and that, that part of
the community are treated with.least attention, when the act of
procuring subsistence devolves intirely on the men in the vigor of
life. It appears to me that nature has been much more deficient in her
filial tie than in any other of the strong affections of the human
heart, and therefore think, our old men equally with our women indebted
to civilization for their ease and comfort. Among the Siouxs,
Assinniboins and others on the Missouri who subsist by hunting it is a
custom when a person of either sex becomes so old and infurm that they
are unable to travel on foot from camp to camp as they rome in surch of
subsistance, for the children or near relations of such person to leave
them without compunction or remose; on those occasions they usually
place within their reach a small peace of meat and a platter of water,
telling the poor old superannuated wretch for his consolation, that he
or she had lived long enough, that it was time they should dye and go
to their relations who can afford to take care of them much better than
they could. I am informed that this custom prevails even among the
Minetares Arwerharmays and Recares when attended by their old people on
their hunting excurtions; but in justice to these people I must observe
that it appeared to me at their vilages, that they provided tolerably
well for their aged persons, and several of their feasts appear to have
principally for their object a contribution for their aged and infirm
persons.
This day I overhalled our merchandize and dryed it by the fire, found
it all damp; we have not been able to keep anything dry for many days
together since we arrived in this neighbourhood, the humidity of the
air has been so excessively great. our merchandize is reduced to a mear
handfull, and our comfort during our return the next year much depends
on it, it is therefore almost unnecessary to add that we much regret
the reduced state of this fund.
[Clark, January 6, 1806]
2 3 4 5 & all Day
6t of January 1805 all last night rained without intermition, & the
morning. I sat out with 12 men in 2 Canoes to around thro the bay and
up a Creek to an old landing at which place the Indians have a roade
across thro Shashes West I landed made the Canoes fast and Set out up
the Cree on a road passed thro 3 Stashes to a pond, then up & around th
bend along a bad thick way, took an Indian path which took us to a
Creek which runs into the Sand bay at which place we found a Canoe
which took over 3 men at a time crossed and on the top of a rise Saw
Elk prosued & Killed one and encamped at the forks of a Creek the West
Eate th Elk all up. a fine Butifull moon Shining night unto _____, Swan
Geese, Brand &c.
[Clark, January 6, 1806]
Monday 6th of January 1806
The last evening Shabono and his Indian woman was very impatient to be
permitted to go with me, and was therefore indulged; She observed that
She had traveled a long way with us to See the great waters, and that
now that monstrous fish was also to be Seen, She thought it verry hard
that She Could not be permitted to See either (She had never yet been
to the Ocian). after an early brackfast I Set out with two Canoes down
the Ne tel R into Meriwether Bay with a view to proced on to the
Clatsop town, and hire a guide to conduct me through the Creeks which I
had every reason to beleeve Comunicated both with the Bay and a Small
river near to which our men were making Salt. Soon after I arrived in
the Bay the wind Sprung up from the N. W and blew So hard and raised
the waves so high that we were obliged to put into a Small Creek Short
of the Village. finding I could not proceed on to the Village in Safty,
I deturmined to assend this Creek as high as the Canoes would go; which
from its directions must be near the open lands in which I had been on
the 10th ulto., and leave the Canoes and proceed on by land. at the
distance of about 3 miles up this Creek I observed Some high open land,
at which place a road Set out and had every appearance of a portage,
here I landed drew up the Canoes and Set out by land, proceeded on
through 3 deep Slashes to a pond about a mile in length and 200 yards
wide, kept up this pond leaving it to the right, and passing the head
to a Creek which we Could not Cross, this Creek is the one which I
rafted on the 8th & 9 ultimo. and at no great distance from where I
crossed in Cus ca lars Canoe on the 10th ulto. to which place I
expected a find a canoe, we proceeded on and found a Small Canoe at the
place I expected, calculated to Carry 3 men, we crossed and from the
top of a ridge in the Prarie we Saw a large gange of Elk feeding about
2 miles below on our direction. I divided the party So as to be Certain
of an elk, Several Shot were fired only one Elk fell, I had this Elk
butchered and carried to a Creak in advance at which place I intended
to encamp, two other Elk were badly Shot, but as it was nearly dark we
Could not pursue them, we proceeded on to the forks of the Creek which
we had just Crossed turning around to the S W. and meeting one of equal
Size from the South, the two makeing a little river 70 yards wide which
falls into the Ocian near the 3 Clat Sop houses which I visited on the
9th ulto. in the forks of this Creek we found Some drift pine which had
been left on the Shore by the tide of which we made fires. the evening
a butifull Clear moon Shiney night, and the 1st fair night which we
have had for 2 months
[Lewis, January 7, 1806]
Monday January 7th 1806.
Last evening Drewyer visited his traps and caught a beaver and an
otter; the beaver was large and fat we have therefore fared sumptuously
today; this we consider a great prize for another reason, it being a
full grown beaver was well supplyed with the materials for making bate
with which to catch others. this bate when properly prepared will
intice the beaver to visit it as far as he can smell it, and this I
think may be safely stated at a mile, their sense of smelling being
very accute. To prepare beaver bate, the castor or bark stone is taken
as the base, this is gently pressed out of the bladderlike bag which
contains it, into a phiol of 4 ounces with a wide mouth; if you have
them you will put from four to six stone in a phiol of that capacity,
to this you will add half a nutmeg, a douzen or 15 grains of cloves and
thirty grains of cinimon finely pulverized, stir them well together and
then add as much ardent sperits to the composition as will reduce it
the consistency mustard prepared for the table; when thus prepared it
resembles mustard precisely to all appearance. when you cannot procure
a phiol a bottle made of horn or a tight earthen vessel will answer, in
all cases it must be excluded from the air or it will soon loose it's
virtue; it is fit for uce immediately it is prepared but becomes much
stronger and better in about four or five days and will keep for months
provided it be perfectly secluded from the air. when cloves are not to
be had use double the quantity of Allspice, and when no spice can be
obtained use the bark of the root of sausafras; when sperits cannot be
had use oil stone of the beaver adding mearly a sufficient quantity to
moisten the other materials, or reduce it to a stif past. it appears to
me that the principal uce of the spices is only to give a variety to
the scent of the bark stone and if so the mace vineller and other
sweetsmelling spices might be employed with equal advantage. The male
beaver has six stones, two which contain a substance much like finely
pulvarized bark of a pale yellow colour and not unlike tanner's ooz in
smell, these are called the bark stones or castors; two others, which
like the bark stone resemble small bladders, contain a pure oil of a
strong rank disagreeable smell, and not unlike train oil, these are
called the oil stones; and 2 others of generation. the Barkstones are
about two inches in length, the others somewhat smaller all are of a
long oval form; and lye in a bunch together between the skin and the
root of the tail, beneath or behind the fundament with which they are
closely connected and seem to communicate. the pride of the female lyes
on the inner side much like those of the hog. they have no further
parts of generation that I can perceive and therefore beleive that like
the birds they copulate with the extremity of the gut. The female have
from two to four young ones at a birth and bring fourth once a year
only, which usually happens about the latter end of may and begining of
June. at this stage she is said to drive the male from the lodge, who
would otherwise destroy the young.--dryed our lodge and had it put away
under shelter; this is the first day during which we have had no rain
since we arrived at this place. nothing extraordinary happened today.
[Clark, January 7, 1806]
Jany 7th Tuesday 1806
Set out at Day light, porceded up the Creek about 2 mile and crossed on
a tree trunk the Salt makers have fallen across, then proceeded on to
the Ocean 3/4 mile & proceded up 3 miles to the mouth of Colimex River
about 80 or 100 yds wide verry rapid & Cuts its banks, here we found an
old Village of 3 houses, one only inhabited by one familey, I gave the
man a fish hook to put the party across, on the bank found a Skeet fish
which had been lef by the tide proceded on 2 miles on the bank opposit
a kind of bay the river Cross to the Sea Cost to 2 Inds Indians Lodges
at which place I found our Salt makers near the foot of a mountain
which form the Shore. Brackfast and hirired an Indian to pilot me to
the Ca le mix nation where the whale is for which I gave a file, we
proceded on the Stone under a high hill on our right bluff. Soft Stone
Sees verry high, Several parts of this hill recently Sliped in, about
3/4 of a mile abov the Houses Saw a Canoe in which the Dead was buried
at 21/2 miles assended a Steep mountain, as Steep at it is possible
places for 1500 feet we hauled our Selves up by the assistence of the
bushes if one had Given way we must have fallen a great distant the
Steepest worst & highest mountain I ever assended I think it at least
1500 feet highr than the Sea imidiately under on the riht. we met 14
Indians loaded with blubber proceded on thro an unusual bad way falling
timber bendig under logs &c. and encamped on a Creek which runs to my
left find Day and night, the timber Spruc White Cedar & &.
[Clark, January 7, 1806]
Tuesday 7th of January 1806
Some frost this morning. It may appear Somewhat incrediable, but So it
is that the Elk which was killed last evening was eaten except about 8
pounds, which I directed to be taken along with the Skin, I proceded up
the South fork of the Creek about 2 miles and crossed on a pine tree
which had been fallen by the Saltmakers on their first going out, on
this tree we crossed the deepest of the water and waded on the opposit
Side for 30 yards, from thence to the ocian 3/4 of a mile through a
Continuation of open ridgey Prarie, here the Coast is Sandy, we
proceeded on the Sandy beech nearly South for 3 miles to the mouth of
butifull river with bold and rapid Current of 85 yards wide and 3 feet
deep in the Shallowest place, a Short distance up this river on the N E
Side is the remains of an old village of Clatsops. I entered a house
where I found a Man 2 Womn & 3 Children, they appeared retchedly pore &
dirty, I hired the man to Set us across the River which I call after
the Nation Clat Sop river for which I gave 2 fishing hooks--at this
place the Creek over which I crossed on a tree passes within 100 yards
of the Clat Sop river over which the nativs have a portage which
affords them an easy Communication with the villages near point adams,
and at the mouth of the Creek, on which we lay last night. in walking
on the Sand after crossing the river I Saw a Singular Species of fish
which I had never before Seen one of the men Call this fish a Skaite,
it is properly a Thornback. I proceeded on about 2 miles to near the
base of high Mountain where I found our Salt makers, and with them
Sergt. Gass, Geo. Shannon was out in the woods assisting Jo Field and
gibson to kill Some meat, the Salt makers had made a neet Close Camp,
Convenient to wood Salt water and the fresh water of the Clat Sop river
which at this place was within 100 paces of the Ocian they wer also
Situated near 4 houses of Clatsops & Killamox, who they informed me had
been verry kind and attentive to them. I hired a young Indian to pilot
me to the whale for which Service I gave him a file in hand and
promised Several other Small articles on my return, left Sergt. Gass
and one man of my party Werner to make Salt & permited Bratten to
accompany me, we proceeded on the round Slipery Stones under a high
hill which projected into the ocian about 4 miles further than the
direction of the Coast. after walking for 21/2 miles on the Stones my
guide made a Sudin halt, pointed to the top of the mountain and uttered
the word Pe Shack which means bad, and made Signs that we could not
proceed any further on the rocks, but must pass over that mountain, I
hesitated a moment & view this emence mountain the top of which was
obscured in the clouds, and the assent appeard. to be almost
perpindecular; as the Small Indian parth allong which they had brought
emence loads but a fiew hours before, led up this mountain and appeared
to assend in a Sideling direction, I thought more than probable that
the assent might be torerably easy and therefore proceeded on, I soon
found that the ____ become much worst as I assended, and at one place
we were obliged to Support and draw our Selves up by the bushes & roots
for near 100 feet, and after about 2 hours labour and fatigue we
reached the top of this high mountain, from the top of which I looked
down with estonishment to behold the hight which we had assended, which
appeared to be 10 or 12 hundred feet up a mountain which appeared to be
almost perpindicular, here we met 14 Indians men and women loaded with
the oil & Blubber of the whale. In the face of this tremendeous
precipic imediately below us, there is a Strater of white earth (which
my guide informed me) the neighbouring indians use to paint themselves,
and which appears to me to resemble the earth of which the French
Porcelain is made; I am confident that this earth Contains argill, but
whether it also Contains Silex or magnesia, or either of those earths
in a proper perpotion I am unable to deturmine. we left the top of the
precipice and proceeded on a bad road and encamped on a Small run passin
g to the left. all much fatiagued
[Lewis, January 8, 1806]
Tuesday January 8th 1806.
Our meat is begining to become scarse; sent Drewyer and Collins to hunt
this morning. the guard duty being hard on the men who now remain in
the fort I have for their relief since the departure of Capt. Clark
made the Cooks mount guard. Sergt. Gass and Shannon have not yet
returned, nor can I immajen what is the cause of their detention. In
consequence of the clouds this evening I lost my P.M. observation for
Equal Altitudes, and from the same cause have not been able to take a
single observation since we have been at this place. nothing
extraordinary happened today.
The Clatsops Chinnooks and others inhabiting the coast and country in
this neighbourhood, are excessively fond of smoking tobacco. in the act
of smoking they appear to swallow it as they dran it from the pipe, and
for many draughts together you will not perceive the smoke which they
take from the pipe; in the same manner also they inhale it in their
lungs untill they become surcharged with this vapour when they puff it
out to a great distance through their nostils and mouth; I have no
doubt the smoke of the tobacco in this manner becomes much more
intoxicating and that they do possess themselves of all it's virtues in
their fullest extent; they freequently give us sounding proofs of it's
creating a dismorallity of order in the abdomen, nor are those light
matters thought indelicate in either sex, but all take the liberty of
obeying the dictates of nature without reserve. these people do not
appear to know the uce of sperituous liquors, they never having once
asked us for it; I presume therefore that the traders who visit them
have never indulged them with the uce of it; from what ever cause this
may proceede, it is a very fortunate occurrence, as well for the
natives themselves, as for the quiet and safety of thos whites who
visit them.
[Clark, January 8, 1806]
Jany 8 Wedned
Set out at Day a fine morning wind hard from S. E at 11/2 miles arived
at a Open where I had a view of the Seas Coast for a long Distance
rocks in every direction. Struck a branch and come down to the Sea at
which place an old village between 2 Creeks of the Colemix Nation which
inhabits this Coast, grave yard deposed of in Canoes in which the
bodies are laid in boxes in the Canoe, Paddles &c thos poople must use
thos Canoes in the higher Seas of which then ever I Saw on a Cost
ruding Countrey Crossed 3 points rocks great Distanc in the Sea, hill
Sides Sliping from emins ravins which appears to _____ proceeded on to
the mouth of a Creek about 80 yards wide at which Place I saw 5 Lodges
of Indian of the Ca la mix nation, boiling whale in a trough of about
20 gallons with hot Stones, and the oyle they put into a Canoe I
proceded on a Short distance to the whales which was nothing more than
the Sceleton, of 105 feet long, we took out a few bones and returned to
the Cabins at the mouth of the Creek, and attempted to trade with thos
people who I found Close and Capricious, would not trade the Smallest
piece except they thought they got an advantage of the bargain, their
disposition is averitious, & independant in trade, they offered to
trade for Elk of which we had not I purchased some oile and about 120 w
of Blubber after rendered, finding they would not trade I Deturmined to
return home with what we have The Houses of these people appear
temporary a ridge pole on 2 forks Supported a Certain number of Split
boards of the red Cedar & pine, Set on the end the gable ends of the
Same materials and Calculated for 2 families first, The Dress and
appearenc of the nativs as also the language is procisely that of the
Clopsots & Chinnooks, those people Save their oile in bladder Guts &c.
Their food is principally fish that is thrown on the Shores by the Seas
& left by the tide, This Cost is rockey, the mountains high & rugged,
They inform me that their nation lives in 5 villages to the S E of this
place at the mouths of Creek in which they catch Samn. in the Season, I
got of those people a few roots Some Sturgeon whale-____ &. They Call a
whale E cu-la a Creek Shu man, they have Some fiew Sea ortter for which
they ask Such prices I could not purchase any of them
Th party much fatigued in crossing 1 mountain & 4 high Points Steep &
Slipery, also Stony Beach Slippery and tiresom The high tide obliged me
to delay untill late before the tide put out, I Shot a raven & a gul
with my Small riffle which Suppised these people a little They are fond
of blue & white large beed only, files & fish Hooks which are large-
after Diner we Set out Crossed the Creek in a Small Canoe The tide out
and Encamped on the opposit Side, I was asked for ferrage and paid a
pin, one hut on the Side in which I Camped & Village a Short distance
above which I did not See last night, all the men came over & Smoked
with me, about bed time I herd a hollowing on the opposit Side of the
river which allarnied all the Indian men about me, they run across the
Creek, I Suspected perhaps Some of my party was over after the Squars,
by exemening found that McNeal was not in Camp, my guide who Staid with
me told me Some body throat was Cut. I emediately Sent Serjt Pryor & 2
men across for McNeal, they Soon returned haveing met the person I was
anxious to find out the Cause of the allarm, McNeal Said that a man
envited him to go across and get Some fish, locked arms of which he
Contd to hold he took him into a lodge and the woman gave him a Small
piec the man then invited him to another, the woman of the lodge puled
his blanket, & Sent out a Squar to hollow across, to inform of
Something which aid. McNeal I Sent over Sergt. Pryor to Know the Cause
of the allarm which he was informed that a Plot was laid to kill McNeal
for his Blanket & Clothes by this Indian who was from another Villg at
Some distance, and that She had attempted to Stop McNeal & findeing She
Could not that She then allarmed the men, Several of the mans Band was
with me who imedeately Cleared out, 2 men Came over & Slept at my feet.
I kept a guard & Sentinel all night a fair night wind blew from S. E.
during the evening I acquired all the information possiable respecting
the Coast to the S. E. got the name of many nations & the Nos. of their
houses, a map of the Coast in their way. I am very pore & weak for want
of Sufficient food and fear much that I shall require more assistance
to get back than I had to get to this place. a deturmined purcistance
will as it has done carry me through
[Clark, January 8, 1806]
Wednesday 8th January 1805
The last night proved fair and Cold wind hard from the S. E. we Set out
early and proceeded to the top of the mountain next to the which is
much the highest part and that part faceing the Sea is open, from this
point I beheld the grandest and most pleasing prospects which my eyes
ever surveyed, in my frount a boundless Ocean; to the N. and N. E. the
coast as as far as my sight Could be extended, the Seas rageing with
emence wave and brakeing with great force from the rocks of Cape
Disapointment as far as I could See to the N. W. The Clatsops Chinnooks
and other villagers on each Side of the Columbia river and in the
Praries below me, the meanderings of 3 handsom Streams heading in Small
lakes at the foot the high Country; The Columbia River for a Some
distance up, with its Bays and Small rivers and on the other Side I
have a view of the Coast for an emence distance to the S. E. by S. the
nitches and points of high land which forms this Corse for a long ways
aded to the inoumerable rocks of emence Sise out at a great distance
from the Shore and against which the Seas brak with great force gives
this Coast a most romantic appearance. from this point of View my guide
pointed to a village at the mouth of a Small river near which place he
Said the whale was, he also pointed to 4 other places where the
princpal Villages of the Kil la mox were Situated, I could plainly See
the houses of 2 of those Villeges & the Smoke of a 3rd which was two
far of for me to disern with my naked eye--after taking the Courses and
computed the Distances in my own mind, I proceeded on down a Steep
decent to a Single house the remains of an old Kil a mox Town in a
nitch imediately on the Sea Coast, at which place great no. of eregular
rocks are out and the waves comes in with great force. Near this old
Town I observed large Canoes of the neetest kind on the ground Some of
which appeared nearly decayed others quit Sound, I examoned those
Canoes and found they were the repository of the dead--This Custom of
Secureing the Dead differs a little from the Chinnooks. the Kil a mox
Secure the dead bodies in an oblong box of Plank, which is placed in an
open Canoe resting on the ground, in which is put a paddle and Sundery
other articles the property of the disceased. The Coast in the
neighbourhood of this old village is slipping from the Sides of the
high hills, in emence masses; fifty or a hundred acres at a time give
way and a great proportion of an instant precipitated into the Ocean.
those hills and mountains are principally composed of a yellow Clay;
their Slipping off or Spliting assunder at this time is no doubt Caused
by the incessant rains which has fallen within the last two months. the
mountans Covered with a verry heavy Croth of pine & furr, also the
white Cedar or arbor vita and a Small proportion of the black alder,
this alder grows to the hight of Sixty or Seventy feet and from 2 to 3
feet in diamiter. Some Species of pine on the top of the Point of View
rise to the emmence hight of 210 feet and from 8 to 12 feet in
diameter, and are perfectly Sound and Solid. Wind hard from the S. E
and See looked ____ in the after part of the Day breaking with great
force against the Scattering rocks at Some distance from Shore, and the
ruged rockey points under which we wer obleged to pass and if we had
unfortunately made one false Stet we Should eneviateably have fallen
into the Sea and dashed against the rocks in an instant, fortunately we
passed over 3 of those dismal points and arived on a butifull Sand
Shore on which we Continued for 2 miles, Crossed a Creek 80 yards near
5 Cabins, and proceeded to the place the whale had perished, found only
the Skelleton of this monster on the Sand between 2 of the villages of
the Kil a mox nation; the Whale was already pillaged of every valuable
part by the Kil a mox Inds. in the vecinity of whose village's it lay
on the Strand where the waves and tide had driven up & left it. this
Skeleton measured 105 feet. I returned to the village of 5 Cabins on
the Creek which I shall call E co-la or whale Creek, found the nativs
busily engaged boiling the blubber, which they performed in a large
Squar wooden trought by means of hot Stones; the oil when extracted was
Secured in bladders and the Guts of the whale; the blubber from which
the oil was only partially extracted by this process, was laid by in
their Cabins in large flickes for use; those flickes they usially
expose to the fire on a wooden Spit untill it is prutty well wormed
through and then eate it either alone or with roots of the rush, Shaw
na tdk we or diped in the oil. The Kil a mox although they possessed
large quantities of this blubber and oil were so prenurious that they
disposed of it with great reluctiance and in Small quantities only;
insomuch that my utmost exertion aided by the party with the Small
Stock of merchindize I had taken with me were not able to precure more
blubber than about 300 wt. and a fiew gallons of oil; Small as this
Stock is I prise it highly; and thank providence for directing the
whale to us; and think him much more kind to us than he was to jonah,
having Sent this monster to be Swallowed by us in Sted of Swallowing of
us as jonah's did. I recrossed E co la Creek and Encamped on the bank
at which place we observed an ebundance of fine wood the Indian men
followed me for the purpose of Smokeing. I enquired of those people as
well as I could by Signs the Situation, mode of liveing & Strength of
their nation They informed me that the bulk of their nation lived in 3
large villages Still further along the Sea coast to the S, S, W. at the
enterence Of 3 Creek which fell into a bay, and that other houses were
Scattered about on the Coast, Bay and on a Small river which fell into
the Bay in which they Cought Salmon, and from this Creek (which I call
Kil a mox River) they crossed over to the Wappato I. on the
Shock-ah-lil com (which is the Indian name for the Columbia river) and
purchased Wappato &c. that the nation was once verry large and that
they had a great maney houses, In Salmon Season they Cought great
numbers of that fish in the Small Creeks, when the Salmon was Scerce
they found Sturgion and a variety of other fish thrown up by the waves
and left by the tide which was verry fine, Elk was plenty in the
mountains, but they Could not Kill maney of them with their arrows. The
Kil d mox in their habits Customs manners dress & language differ but
little from the Clatsops, Chinnooks and others in this neighbourhood
are of the Same form of those of the Clatsops with a Dore at each end &
two fire places i, e the house is double as long as wide and divided
into 2 equal parts with a post in the middle Supporting the ridge pole,
and in the middle of each of those divisions they make their fires,
dotes Small & houses Sunk 5 feet
[Lewis, January 9, 1806]
Friday January 9th 1806.
Our men are now very much engaged in dressing Elk and Deer skins for
mockersons and cloathing. the deer are extreemly scarce in this
neighbourhood, some are to be found near the praries and open grounds
along the coast. this evening we heard seven guns in quick succession
after each other, they appeared to be on the Creek to the South of us
and several miles distant; I expect that the hunters Drewyer and
Collins have fallen in with a gang of Elk. some marrow bones and a
little fresh meat would be exceptable; I have been living for two days
past on poor dryed Elk, or jurk as the hunters term it.
The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. bury their dead in their canoes. for this
purpose four pieces of split timber are set erect on end, and sunk a
few feet in the grown, each brace having their flat sides opposite to
each other and sufficiently far assunder to admit the width of the
canoes in which the dead are to be deposited; through each of these
perpendicular posts, at the hight of six feet a mortice is cut, through
which two bars of wood are incerted; on these cross bars a small canoe
is placed in which the body is laid after being carefully roled in a
robe of some dressed skins; a paddle is also deposited with them; a
larger canoe is now reversed, overlaying and imbracing the small one,
and resting with it's gunwals on the cross bars; one or more large mats
of rushes or flags are then roled around the canoes and the whole
securely lashed with a long cord, usually made of the bark of the Arbor
vita or white cedar. on the cross bars which support the canoes is
frequently hung or laid various articles of cloathing culinary
eutensels &c. I cannot understand them sufficiently to make any
enquiries relitive to their religeous opinions, but presume from their
depositing various articles with their dead, that they believe in a
state of future existence.
The persons who usually visit the entrance of this river for the
purpose of traffic or hunting I believe are either English or
Americans; the Indians inform us that they speak the same language with
ourselves, and give us proofs of their varacity by repeating many words
of English, as musquit, powder, shot, nife, file, damned rascal, sun of
a bitch &c. whether these traders are from Nootka sound, from some
other late establishment on this coast, or immediately from the U
States or Great Brittain, I am at a loss to determine, nor can the
Indians inform us. the Indians whom I have asked in what direction the
traders go when they depart from hence, or arrive here, always point to
the S. W. from which it is presumeable that Nootka cannot be their
destination; and as from Indian information a majority of these traders
annually visit them about the beginning of April and remain with them
six or seven Months, they cannot come immediately from Great Britain or
the U States, the distance being too great for them to go and return in
the ballance of the year. from this circumstance I am sometimes induced
to believe that there is some other establishment on the coast of
America south West of this place of which little is but yet known to
the world, or it may be perhaps on some Island in the pacific ocean
between the Continents of Asia and America to the South West of us.
This traffic on the part of the whites consists in vending, guns,
(principally old british or American musquits) powder, balls and Shot,
Copper and brass kettles, brass teakettles and coffee pots, blankets
from two to three point, scarlet and blue Cloth (coarse), plates and
strips of sheet copper and brass, large brass wire, knives, beads and
tobacco with fishinghooks buttons and some other small articles; also a
considerable quantity of Sailor's cloaths, as hats coats, trowsers and
shirts. for these they receive in return from the natives, dressed and
undressed Elkskins, skins of the sea Otter, common Otter, beaver,
common fox, spuck, and tiger cat; also dryed and pounded sammon in
baskets, and a kind of buisquit, which the natives make of roots called
by them shappelell. The natives are extravegantly fond of the most
common cheap blue and white beads, of moderate size, or such that from
50 to 70 will weigh one penneyweight. the blue is usually pefered to
the white; these beads constitute the principal circulating medium with
all the indian tribes on this river; for these beads they will dispose
any article they possess.--the beads are strung on strans of a fathom
in length and in that manner sold by the bredth or yard.-
[Clark, January 9, 1806]
January 9th Thursday 1806
a fine morning wind N E Set out at day lighte every man Some meat of
the whale and a little oile proceded on the track we Came out to a
house at a branch where we halted 1/2 an hour to rest this house is at
at place an old village has formerly been, on the Coast at the
Comencment ____ 27 foot wide 35 feet long Sunk in the ground 5 feet 2
Dotes & 2 fire places dotes 29 Ins. high & 141/4 wide handsom Steps to
decend down a post in the middle Coverede with boards Split thin an 2
feet wide, old grave in Canoes of 3 feet 8 Inches wide & 5 feet long
neetly made high at bow proceded on to the top of the hill Passing 3
bad points rockey &. from the Point Clarks Point of view Cape Disapt.
bears S. 12° E passing a Great point at 15 miles one at 40 miles rocks
out to the 1st large point from the Creek 4 points, between the 1st
large Point and 2d a point of many large rocks, Day Clouded up, I can
See a point Bearing N 5° East along way just in Sight. from Clarks View
Point to Cape Disapointment is N 20° W. To point adams &the open Slope
point is North and a Sharp point, met a party of Chinnooks going to get
whale blubber to eate & oile each of which they eate together, we also
over took Several parties of the Clot Sops loaded with imence laods of
the blubber and oile maney of those loads I with difficuelty raised,
Estonishing what custom will do. at 2 oClock we arrived at the Camp of
our Salt makers verry much fatigued, more So than I ever was before,
the Indians all proceeded on, I concluded to Stay all night, as the
party was much fatigued, and Send out 2 men which I had left here to
hunt Ducks up the little river, Jo. Fields had killed an Elk and
brought in a quarter on which we Dined he also had killed & brought in
a Deer. The Indians with the oile & bluber tole me they had to purchase
of the Ca-le nixx and would Come to the fort & Sell to us in 3 Days
time, this I incouraged, as I expect to purchase at the fort as cheep
as at the village at which I was, day proved fine. rained the greater
part of the night I went into an Indian Lodge they were pore Durty and
the house full of flees. he offered me roots which they geather on the
Sea Cost a kind of rush, of which they offered me to eate,
[Clark, January 9, 1806]
Thursday 9th of January 1806
a fine morning wind from the N. E. last night about 10 oClock while
Smokeing with the nativ's I was alarmed by a loud Srile voice from the
Cabins on the opposite Side, the Indians all run immediately across to
the village, my guide who Continued with me made Signs that Some one's
throat was Cut, by enquiry I found that one man McNeal was absent, I
imediately Sent off Sergt. N. Pryor & 4 men in quest of McNeal who they
met comeing across the Creak in great hast, and informed me that the
people were alarmed on the opposit Side at Something but what he could
not tell, a man had verry friendly envited him to go and eate in his
lodge, that the Indian had locked armes with him and went to a lodge in
which a woman gave him Some blubber, that the man envited him to
another lodge to get Something better, and the woman held him by the
blanket which he had around him another ran out and hollow'd and his
pretended friend disapeared--I emediately ordered every man to hold
themselves in a State of rediness and Sent Sergt. Pryor & 4 men to know
the cause of the alarm which was found to be a premeditated plan of the
pretended friend of McNeal to assanate for his Blanket and what fiew
articles he had about him, which was found out by a Chin nook woman who
allarmed the men of the village who were with me in time to prevent the
horred act. this man was of another band at Some distance and ran off
as Soon as he was discovered. we have now to look back and Shudder at
the dreadfull road on which we have to return of 45 miles S E of Point
adams & 35 miles from Fort Clatsop. I had the blubber & oil divided
among the party and Set out about Sunrise and returned by the Same rout
we had went out, met Several parties of men & womin of the Chinnook and
Clatsops nations, on their way to trade with the Kil a mox for blubber
and oil; on the Steep decent of the Mountain I overtook five men and
Six womin with emence loads of the Oil and blubber of the Whale, those
Indians had passed by Some rout by which we missed them as we went out
yesterday; one of the women in the act of getting down a Steep part of
the mountain her load by Some means had Sliped off her back, and She
was holding the load by a Strap which was fastened to the mat bag in
which it was in, in one hand and holding a bush by the other, as I was
in front of my party, I endeavored to relieve this woman by takeing her
load untill She Could get to a better place a little below, & to my
estonishment found the load as much as I Could lift and must exceed 100
wt. the husband of this woman who was below Soon came to her releif,
those people proceeded on with us to the Salt works, at which place we
arrived late in the evening, found them without meat, and 3 of the
Party J. Field Gibson & Shannon out hunting. as I was excessively
fatigued and my party appeared verry much so, I deturmined to Stay
untill the morning and rest our Selves a little. The Clatsops proceeded
on with their lodes--The Clatsops, Chin nooks Kil a mox &c. are verry
loquacious and inquisitive; they possess good memories and have
repeeted to us the names capasities of the Vessels &c of maney traders
and others who have visited the mouth of this river; they are generally
low in Statue, proportionably Small, reather lighter complected and
much more illy formed than the Indians of the Missouri and those of our
fronteers; they are generally Chearfull but never gay. with us their
Conversation generally turns upon the subject of trade, Smokeing,
eating or their womin; about the latter, they Speak without reserve in
their presence, of their every part, and of the most farmiliar
Connection. they do not hold the virtue of their womin in high
estimation, and will even prostitute their wives and Daughters for a
fishing hook or a Stran of beeds. in Common with other Savage nations
they make their womin perform every Species of domestic drugery; but in
almost every Species of this drugery the men also participate. their
woman are compelled to gather roots, and assist them in takeing fish;
which articles form much the greater part of their Subsistance;
notwithstanding the Survile manner in which they treat their womin they
pay much more respect to their judgement and oppinion in maney respects
than most indian nations; their womin are permited to Speak freely
before them, and Sometimes appear to command with a tone of authority;
they generally consult them in their traffic and act conformably to
their opinions.
I think it may be established as a general maxim that those nations
treat their old people and women with most defference and respect where
they Subsist principally on Such articles that these can participate
with the men in obtaining them; and that, that part of the Community
are treated with least attention, when the act of precureing
subsistance devolves intirely on the men in the vigor of life. It
appears to me that nature has been much more deficient in her filial
ties than in any others of the Strong effections of the humane heart,
and therefore think our old men equally with our woman indebted to
Sivilization for their ease and Comfort. I am told among the Sioux's,
Assinniboins and others on the Missouri who Subsist by hunting it is a
Custom when a person of either Sex becoms So old and infirm that they
are unable to travel on foot, from Camp to Camp as they rove in serch
of Subsistance, for the Children or near relations of Such person to
leave them without Compunction or remorse; on those occasions they
usially place within their reach a Small piece of meat and a platter of
water, telling the poor old Superannuated retch for their Consolation,
that he or She had lived long enough, and that it was time they Should
die and go to their relations who Can afford to take Care of them, much
better than they Could. I am informed that the Me ne tar es Ar war har
mays and Ricares when attended by their old people on their hunting
expedition prosued the Same Custom; but injustice to those people I
must observe that it appeared to me at their villages, that they
provided tolerably well for their aged persons, and Several of their
feasts appear to have principally for their object a contribution for
their aged and infirm persons. In one of the Mandan villages I Saw an
old man to whome I gave a knife and enquired his age, he Said he had
Seen more than 100 winters, and that he Should Soon go down the river
to their old village--he requested I would give him Something to
prevent the pain in his back his grand Son a Young man rebuked the old
man and Said it was not worth while, that it was time for the old man
to die. the old man occupied one Side of the fire and was furnished
with plenty of Covouring and food, and every attention appeared to be
paid him &c. Jo. Field in my absence had killed an Elk and a Deer,
brought in the Deer and half of the Elk on a part of which we Suped,
Some rain a little after dark. I visited a house near the Salt boilers
found it inhabited by 2 families, they were pore dirty and their house
Sworming with flees.-
[Lewis, January 10, 1806]
Saturday January 10th 1806.
About 10 A.M. I was visited by Tia Shah-har-war-cap and eleven of his
nation in one large canoe; these are the Cuth'-lah-mah nation who
reside first above us on the South side of the Columbia river; this is
the first time that I have seen the Chief, he was hunting when we past
his vilage on our way to this place. I gave him a medal of the smallest
size; he presented me with some indian tobacco and a basquit of
wappetoe, in return for which I gave him some thread for making a
skiming net and a small piece of tobacco. these people speak the same
language with the Chinnooks and Catsops whom they also resemble in
their dress customs manners &c. they brought some dryed salmon,
wappetoe, dogs, and mats made of rushes and flags, to barter; their
dogs and a part of their wappetoe they disposed off, an remained all
night near the fort. This morning Drewyer and Collins returned having
killed two Elk only, and one of those had died in their view over a
small lake which they had not the means of passing it being late in the
evening and has of course spoiled, as it laid with the entrals in it
all night; as the tide was going out we could not send for the elk
today, therefore ordered a party to go for it early in the morning and
George and Collins to continue their hunt; meat has now become scarce
with us.
Capt Clark returned at to P.M. this evening with the majority of the
party who accompanyed him; having left some men to assist the
saltmakers to bring in the meat of two Elk which they had killed, and
sent 2 others through by land to hunt. Capt. Clark found the whale on
the Coast about 45 Miles S. E. of Point Adams, and about 35 Miles from
Fort Clatsop by the rout he took; The whale was already pillaged of
every valuable part by the Killamucks, in the vicinity of one of whose
villages it lay on the strand where the waves and tide had driven up
and left it. this skelleton measured one hundred and five feet. Capt.
C. found the natives busily engaged in boiling the blubber, which they
performed in a large wooden trought by means of hot stones; the oil
when extracted was secured in bladders and the guts of the whale; the
blubber, from which the oil was only partially extracted by this
process, was laid by in their lodges in large fliches for uce; this
they usually expose to the fire on a wooden spit untill it is pretty
well warmed through and then eat it either alone or with the roots of
the rush, squawmash, fern wappetoe &c. The natives although they
possessed large quantities of this blubber and oil were so penurious
that they disposed of it with great reluctance and in small quantities
only; insomuch that the utmost exertions of Capt. C. and the whole
party aided by the little stock of merchandize he had taken with him
and some small articles which the men had, were not able to procure
more blubber than about 300 lb. and a few gallons of the oil; this they
have brought with them, and small as the store is, we prize it highly,
and thank providence for directing the whale to us, and think him much
more kind to us than he was jonah, having sent this monster to be
swallowed by us in stead of swallowing of us as jona's did. Capt. C.
found the road along the coast extreemly difficult of axcess, lying
over some high rough and stoney hills, one of which he discribes as
being much higher than the others, having it's base washed by the Ocean
over which it rares it's towering summit perpendicularly to the hight
of 1500 feet; from this summit Capt. C. informed me that there was a
delightfull and most extensive view of the Ocean, the coast and
adjacent country; this Mout. I have taken the liberty of naming Clark's
Mountain and point of view; it is situated about 30 M. S. E. of Point
Adams and projects about 21/2 miles into the Ocean; Killamucks river
falls in a little to the N. W. of this mountain; in the face of this
tremendious precepice there is a stra of white earth (see specimen No.
____) which the neighbouring Indians use to paint themselves, and which
appears to me to resemble the earth of which the French Porcelain is
made; I am confident this earth contains Argill, but wether it also
contains Silex or magnesia, or either of those earths in a proper
proportion I am unable to determine.--Shannon and Gass were found with
the Salt makers and ordered to return McNeal was near being
assassinated by a Killamuck Indian, but fortunately escaped in
consequence of a Chinnook woman giving information to Capt. C., the
party and Indians with them before the villain had prepaired himself to
execute his purposes. The party returned excessively fortiegued and
tired of their jaunt. Killamucks river is 85 yards wide, rappid and 3
feet deep in the shallowest part. The Killamucks in their habits
customs manners dress and language differ but little from the Clatsops
& Chinnooks. they place their dead in canoes resting on the ground
uncovered, having previously secured the dead bodies in an oblong box
of plank.
The coast in the neighbourhood of Clarks Mountain is sliping off &
falling into the Ocean in immence masses; fifty or a hundred Acres at a
time give way and a great proportion in an instant precipitated into
the Ocean. these hills and mountains are principally composed of a
yellow clay; there sliping off or spliting assunder at this time is no
doubt caused by the incessant rains which have fallen within the last
two months. the country in general as about Fort Clatsop is covered
with a very heavy growth of several species of pine & furr, also the
arbor vita or white cedar and a small proportion of the black Alder
which last sometimes grows to the hight of sixty or seventy feet, and
from two to four feet in diameter. some species of the pine rise to the
immence hight of 210 feet and are from 7 to 12 feet in diameter, and
are perfectly sound and solid.
[Clark, January 10, 1806]
Jany 10 Friday 1806
I left Sergt. Gass here and Set out at Sun rise, Crossed the little
river which I waded 85 yards wide & 3 feet Deep Swift, at which place I
Saw Several Indians one of which had 2 butifull Sea orter Skins on as a
roabe, here the Creek which I crossed at a tree and on which I camped
the 6th inst. came within 200 yds of the river & they Inds. make a
portage here, Continued on a place 3 miles Crossed this Creek in a
Small Canoe. here I expected to find Shannon and gibson with meet to
furnish the Salt makers, but did not, divided the party Sent 2 men to
my right to try and kill Elk, Soon after met Gibson & Shannon with
meat, they had killed 2 Elk 2 miles to my right, I divided the meat
between the party, and the load of 3 men whome I Send with gibson &
Shannon to help Carrey the 2 Elk to the Salt makers, and I my Self and
the party returned by the Same rout we went out to the Canoes Rd.
Frasure behaved very badly, and mutonous--he also lost his large Knife.
I Sent him back to look for his knife, with Directions to return with
the party of Serjt Gass, I proceded on, here is a portage of 1/4 of a
mile from this Creck to a branch which falls into the Bay, we proceeded
on a much bette road than we went out across a Deep Slash and found our
Canoes Safe, and Set out at Sunset, and arived at the foart, wet and
Cold at 9 oClock P.M. found a Cheif & number of Indians both Encamped
on the Shore, and at the fort of the Cath la-hur Tribe which lives at
no great distance above this back of an Island Close under the South
Side of the Columbia River
Those people Speake the Same Language of the Clotsops dress nearly
alike the men of both Cut their hair in the neck. use blankets of the
manifactory of the nativs near the falls of the Sheep Wool-fond of
brass arm bands and Check, They bring Wap-pa-to root (which is
Sagittifolia or the Common arrow head which is Cultivated by the
Chinees) to Sell.
[Clark, January 10, 1806]
Friday the 10th of January 1806
I derected Serjt. Gass to Continue with the Salt makers untill Shannon
return from hunting, and then himself and Shannon to return to the
Fort, I Set out at Sunrise with the party waded the Clat Sop river
which I found to be 85 Steps across and 3 feet deep, on the opposite
Side a Kil a mox Indian Came to and offered to Sell Some roots of which
I did not want, he had a robe made of 2 large Sea otter Skins which I
offered to purchase, but he would not part with them, we returned by
nearly the Same rout which I had Come out, at four miles, I met Gibson
& Shannon each with a load of meat, they informed me that they had
killed Elk about 2 miles off, I directed 3 men to go with the hunters
and help them pack the meat to the place they were makeing Salt, and
return to the fort with Serjt. Gass, the balance of the party took the
load of the 3 men, after crossing the 2d Creek frasure informed me that
he had lost his big knife, here we Dined, I put frasurs load on my
guide who is yet with me, and Sent him back in Serch of his knife with
directions to join the other men who were out packing meat & return to
the fort all together. I arrived at the Canoes about Sunset, the tides
was Comeing in I thought it a favourable time to go on to the fort at
which place we arrived at 10 oClock P M, found Several inidians of the
Cath'-lah-mah nation the great Chief Shahhar-wah cop who reside not far
above us on the South Side of the Columbia River, this is the first
time I have Seen the Chief, he was hunting when we passed his village
on our way to this place, we gave him a medal of the Smallest Size, he
presented me with a basquet of Wappato, in return for which I gave him
a fish hook of a large Size and Some wire, those people Speak the Same
language with the Chinnooks and Clatsops, whome they all resemble in
Dress, Custom, manners &c. they brought Some Dried Salmon, Wappato,
Dogs, and mats made of rushes & flags to barter; their Dogs and part of
their wappato they disposed of, and remained in their Camp near the
fort all night.
In my absence the hunters from the fort killed only two Elk which is
yet out in the woods. Capt. Lewis examined our Small Stock of
merchendize found Some of it wet and Dried it by the fire. Our
merchindize is reduced to a mear handfull, and our Comfort, dureing our
return next year, much depends on it, it is therefore almost
unnecessary to add that it is much reduced The nativs in this
neighbourhood are excessively fond of Smokeing tobacco. in the act of
Smokeing they appear to Swallow it as they draw it from the pipe, and
for maney draughts together you will not perceive the Smoke they take
from the pipe, in the Same manner they inhale it in their longs untill
they become Surcharged with the vapour when they puff it out to a great
distance through their norstils and mouth; I have no doubt that tobacco
Smoked in this manner becomes much more intoxicating, and that they do
possess themselves of all its virtues to the fullest extent; they
frequently give us Sounding proofs of its createing a dismorallity of
order in the abdomen, nor are those light matters thought indelicate in
either Sex, but all take the liberty of obeying the dicktates of nature
without reserve. Those people do not appear to know the use of
Speritious licquors, they never haveing once asked us for it; I prosume
therefore that the traders who visit them have never indulged them with
the use of it; of whatever Cause this may proceed, it is a verry
fortunate occurrence, as well for the nativs themselves, as for the
quiet and Safty of those whites who visit them. George Drewyer visited
this traps in my absence and caught a Beaver & a otter; the beaver was
large and fat, and Capt. L. has feested Sumptiously on it yesterday;
this we Consider as a great prize, it being a full grown beaver was
well Supplyed with the materials for makeing bate with which to Catch
others. this bate when properly prepared will entice the beaver to
visit it as far as he can Smell it, and this I think may be Safely
Stated at 1/2 a mile, their Sence of Smelling being verry accute. To
prepare beaver bate, the Caster or bark Stone is taken as the base,
this is generally pressed out of the bladder like bag which Contains
it, into a phiol of 4 ounces with a wide mouth; if you have them you
will put from 4 to 6 Stone in a phial of that Capacity, to this you
will add half a nutmeg, a Dozen or 15 grains of Cloves and 30 grains of
Sinimon finely pulverised, Stur them well together, and then add as
much ardent Sperits to the Composition as will reduce it to the
Consistancey of mustard prepared for the table, when thus prepared it
resembles mustard precisely to all appearance. When you cannot precure
a phial a bottle made of horn or a light earthern vessel will answer,
in all Cases it must be excluded from the air or it will Soon lose its
Virtue; it is fit for use imediately it is prepared but becoms much
Stronger and better in 4 or 5 days and will keep for months provided it
be purfectly Secluded from the air. when Cloves are not to be had use
double the quantity of allspice, and when no Spices can be obtained use
the bark of the root of the Sausafras; when Sperits cannot be had use
oil Stone of the beaver adding mearly a Sufficent quantity to moisten
the other materials, or reduce it to a Stiff paste. it appears to me
that the principal use of the Spices is only to give a variety to the
Scent of the bark Stone and if So the mace vineller, and other Sweet
Smelling Spices might be employd with equal advantage. The Male Beaver
has Six stones, two which Contanes a Substance much like finely
pulverised bark of a pale yellow Colour and not unlike tanner's ooz in
Smell, these are Called the bark Stones or castors; two others, which
like the bark stone resemble Small blatters, contain a pure oil of a
Strong rank disagreable Smell, and not unlike train Oil, these are
Called the Oil Stones, and two others of Generation. The bark stones
are about 2 inches in length, the others Somewhat Smaller, all are of a
long Oval form, and lye in a bunch together between the skin and the
root of the tail beneath or behind the fundiment with which they are
Closely Connected and Seam to Communicate, the pride of the female lye
on the inner Side much like those of the hog they have no further parts
of Generation that I can proceive, and therefore believe that like the
birds they Coperate with the extremity of the gut. The female have from
2 to 4 young ones at a birth and bring forth once a year only which
usially happins about the Latter end of May and beginning of June. at
this Stage She is Said to drive the Mail from the lodge, who would
otherwise distroy the young
[Lewis, January 11, 1806]
Sunday January 11th 1806.
Sent a party early this morning for the Elk which was killed on the
9th. they returned with it in the evening; Drewyer and Collins also
returned without having killed anything. this morning the Sergt. of the
guard reported the absence of our Indian Canoe, on enquiry we found
that those who came in it last evening had been negligent in securing
her and the tide in the course of the night had taken her off; we sent
a party down to the bay in surch of her, they returned unsuccessfull,
the party also who went up the river and Creek in quest of the meat
were ordered to lookout for her but were equally unsuccessfull; we
ordered a party to resume their resurches for her early tomorrow; this
will be a very considerable loss to us if we do not recover her; she is
so light that four men can carry her on their sholders a mile or more
without resting; and will carry three men and from 12 to 15 hundred
lbs. the Cuthlahmahs left us this evening on their way to the Catsops,
to whom they purpose bartering their wappetoe for the blubber and oil
of the whale, which the latter purchased for beads &c. from the
Killamucks; in this manner there is a trade continually carryed on by
the natives of the river each trading some article or other with their
neighbours above and below them; and thus articles which are vended by
the whites at the entrance of this river, find their way to the most
distant nations enhabiting it's waters.
[Clark, January 11, 1806]
Saturday 11th of January 1806
Sent a party early this morning for the Elk which was killed on the 9th
they returned with it in the evining; This morning the Serjt. of the
guard reported that our Indian Canoe had gone a Drift, on enquiry we
found that those who Came in it last evening had been negligent in
Secureing her, and the tide in Corse of the night had taken her off; we
Sent a party down to the bay in Serch of her, they returned
unsecksessfull, the party who went up the river and Creek after meat
were derected to look out for her but were equally unsecksessfull; this
will be a verry considerable loss to us if we do not recover her, She
is so light that 4 men Can Carry her on their Sholders a mile or more
without resting, and will Carry four men and from 10 to 12 hundred
pounds. The Cath IA mahs left us this evening on their way to the
Clatsops, to whome they perpose bartering their wappato for the blubber
& Oil of the whale, which the latter purchased for Beeds &c. from the
Kil a mox; in this manner there is a trade Continually Carried on by
the nativs of the river each tradeing Some articles or other with their
neighbours above and below them, and those articles which are Vended by
the whites at their enterance of this river, find their way to the most
distant nations inhabiting its waters.
[Lewis, January 12, 1806]
Monday January 12th 1806.
The men who were sent in surch of the canoe returned without being able
to find her, we therefore give her over as lost. This morning sent out
Drewyer and one man to hunt, they returned in the evening, Drewyer
having killed seven Elk; I scarcely know how we should subsist were it
not for the exertions of this excellet hunter. At 2 P.M. the ballance
of the party who had been left by Capt. C. arrived; about the same time
the two hunters also arrived who had been dispatched by Capt C. for the
purpose of hunting on the 9th inst.; they had killed nothing. We have
heretofore usually divided the meat when first killed among the four
messes into which we have divided our party leaving to each the care of
preserving and the discretion of using it, but we find that they make
such prodigal use of it when they hapen to have a tolerable stock on
hand that we have determined to adapt a different system with our
present stock of seven Elk; this is to jerk it & issue it to them in
small quantities.
[Clark, January 12, 1806]
Sunday the 12th January 1806
This morning Sent out Drewyer and one man to hunt, they returned in the
evening Drewyer haveing killed 7 Elk; I scercely know how we Should
Subsist, I beleive but badly if it was not for the exertions of this
excellent hunter; maney others also exert themselves, but not being
accquainted with the best method of finding and killing the elk and no
other wild animals is to be found in this quarter, they are
unsucksessfull in their exertions. at 2 P. M Serjt. Gass and the men I
left to assist the Salt makers in Carrying in their meat arrived also
the hunters which I directed to hunt in the point, they killed
nothing-. We have heretofore devided the meat when first killed among
the four messes, into which we have divided our party, leaveing to each
the Care of preserving and distribution of useing it; but we find that
they make such prodigal use of it when they happen to have a tolerable
Stock on hand, that we are determined to adapt a Different System with
our present stock of Seven Elk; this is to jurk it and issue it to them
in Small quantities
[Lewis, January 13, 1806]
Tuesday January 13th 1806.
This morning I took all the men who could be spared from the Fort and
set out in quest of the flesh of the seven Elk that were killed
yesterday, we found it in good order being untouched by the wolves, of
which indeed there are but few in this country; at 1 P.M. we returned
having gotten all the meat to the fort. this evening we exhausted the
last of our candles, but fortunately had taken the precaution to bring
with us moulds and wick, by means of which and some Elk's tallow in our
possession we do not yet consider ourselves destitute of this necessary
article; the Elk we have killed have a very small portion of tallow.
The traders usually arrive in this quarter, as has been before
observed, in the month of April, and remain untill October; when here
they lay at anchor in a bay within Cape Disappointment on the N. side
of the river; here they are visited by the natives in their canoes who
run along side and barter their comodities with them, their being no
houses or fortification on shore for that purpose. the nations who
repare thither are fist, those of the sea coast S. E. of the entrance
of the river, who reside in the order in which their names are
mentioned, begining at the entrance of the river (viz) The Clatsop,
Killamuck, Ne-cost, Nat-ti, Nat-chies, Tarl-che, E-slitch, You-cone and
So-see. secondly those inhabiting the N. W. coast begining at the
entrance of the river and mentioned in the same order; the Chinnook and
Chiltch the latter very numerous; and thirdly the Cath-lah-mah, and
Skil-lutes, the latter numerous and inhabiting the river from a few
miles above the marshey Islands, where the Cuth-lahmahs cease, to the
grand rappids. These last may be esteemed the principal carryers or
intermediate traders betwen the whites and the Indians of the Sea
Coast, and the E-ne-shurs, the E-chee-lutes, and the Chil-luckkit-te
quaws, who inhabit the river above, to the grand falls inclusive, and
who prepare most of the pounded fish which is brought to market. The
bay in which this trade is carryed on is spacious and commodious, and
perfectly secure from all except the S. and S. E. winds, these however
are the most prevalent and strong winds in the Winter season. fresh
water and wood are very convenient and excellent timber for refiting
and reparing vessels.
[Clark, January 13, 1806]
Monday 13th January 1806
Capt. Lewis took all the men which Could be Speared from the Fort and
Set out in quest of the flesh of the Seven Elk which were killed
yesterday they found the meat all Secure untouched by the Wolves, of
which indeed there are but fiew in this Countrey; at 1 P.M. the party
returned with the 2d and Last load of meat to the fort. this evening we
finished all last of our Candles, we brought with us, but fortunately
had taken the precaution to bring with us moulds and wick, by means of
which and Some Elk tallow in our possession we do not think our Selves
distitute of this necessary article, the Elk which have been killed
have a verry Small portion of tallow. The Traders usially arrive in
this quarter, in the month of april, and remain until October; when
here they lay at anchor in a Bay within Cape Disapointment on the N.
Side of the river; here they are visited by the nativs in their Canoes
who run along Side and barter their Comodities with them, their being
no houses or fortification on Shore for that purpose.
The nations who repare thither ar first those of the Sea Coast S. E & N
W of the enterance of the river, who reside in the order in which their
names are mentioned to the S E. the Clat Sops, Kil-a-mox, and those to
the N W. the Chin nooks, and Chiltch; and Secondly the Cath-lah-mah,
War-ki-a-cum, and Skil-lutes, the latter noumerous and inhabiting those
last may be considered or intermedeate traders between the whites and
nations on the Sea Coast, and the E-ne-churs, the E-chee-lutes, and the
Chil-luck-kitte-quaws, who inhabit the river up to the great falls
inclusive, and who prepare most of the pounded fish which is brought to
Market.
The Bay in which the trade is Carried on is Spacious and Commodious,
and perfectly Secure from all except the S. & S E Winds and those blow
but Seldom the most prevalent & Strong winds are from the S W & N W in
the Winter Season. fish water and wood are very Convenient and
excellent timber for refitting and repareing vessels.-.
[Lewis, January 14, 1806]
Wednesday January 14th 1806.
This morning the Sergt. of the Guard reported the absence of one of the
large perogues, it had broken the chord by which it was attatched and
the tide had taken it off; we sent a party immediately in surch of her,
they returned in about 3 hours having fortunately found her. we now
directed three of the perogues to be drawn up out of reach of the tide
and the fourth to be mored in the small branch just above the landing
and confined with a strong rope of Elk-skin. had we lost this perogue
also we should have been obliged to make three small ones, which with
the few tools we have now left would be a serious undertaking. a
fatiegue of 6 men employed in jerking the Elk beaf.
From the best estimate we were enabled to make as we dscended the
Columbia we conceived that the natives inhabiting that noble stream,
for some miles above the great falls to the grand rappids inclusive
annually prepare about 30,000 lbs. of pounded sammon for market. but
whether this fish is an article of commerce with the whites or is
exclusively sold to and consumed by the natives of the sea Coast, we
are at a loss to determine. the first of those positions I am disposed
to credit most, but, still I must confess that I cannot imagine what
the white merchant's object can be in purchasing this fish, or where
they dispose of it. and on the other hand the Indians in this
neighbourhood as well as the Skillutes have an abundance of dryed
sammon which they take in the creeks and inlets, and I have never seen
any of this pounded fish in their lodges, which I pesume would have
been the case if they purchased this pounded fish for their own
consumption. the Indians who prepared this dryed and pounded fish,
informed us that it was to trade with the whites, and shewed us many
articles of European manufacture which they obtained for it. it is true
they obtain those articles principally for their fish but they trade
with the Skillutes for them and not immediately with the whites; the
intermediate merchants and carryers, the Skillutes, may possibly
consume a part of this fish themselves and dispose of the ballance of
it the natives of the sea coast, and from them obtain such articles as
they again trade with the whites.
[Clark, January 14, 1806]
Tuesday 14th January 1806
This morning the Serjt. of the guard reported the absence of one of our
Canoes it had broken the Cord by which it was attached and the tide had
taken her off; we Sent a party imediately in Serch of her, they
returned in about 3 hours haveing fortunately found her. we now derect
that 3 of the canoes be drawed up out of reach of the tide and the 4th
to be tied with a long Strong Cord of Elk Skins, ready for use. had we
lost this large Canoe we Should have been obliged to make 3 other Small
ones, which with the fiew tools we have now left would be a Serious
undertakeing. a fatiege of Six men employd in jurking the Elk beef.
From the best estermate we were enabled to make as we decended the
Columbia we Conceived that the nativs inhabiting that noble Stream
(from the enterance of Lewis's river to the neighbourhood of the falls
the nativs Consume all the fish they Catch either for food or fuel)
From Tow ar ne hi ooks River or a fiew mils above the Great falls to
the grand rapids inclusive anually prepare about 30,000 lbs of pounded
fish (Chiefly Salmon) for market, but whether this fish is an article
of Commerce with their neighbours or is exclusively Sold to, and
Consumed by the nativs of the Sea coast, we are at a loss to determine
the latter of those positions I am dispose to credit most, as I cannot
imagine what the white merchents objet Could be in purchaseing fish, or
where they Could dispose of it. on the other hand the Indians in this
neighbourhood as well as the Skillutes and those above have an
abundance of Dryed Salmon which they take in the Creeks and inlets.
they are excessively fond of the pounded fish haveing frequently asked
us for Some of it-. the Indians who prepared this pounded fish made
Signs that they traded it with people below them for Beeds and trinkets
&c and Showed us maney articles of European manufacture which they
obtained for it; The Skillutes and Indians about the great rapids are
the intermediate merchants and Carryers, and no doubt Consume a part of
this fish themselves and dispose of the ballance of it to the nativs of
the Sea coast, and from this obtain Such articles as they again trade
with the whites.
The persons who usially visit the enterence of this river for the
purpose of traffic or hunting, I believe is either English or
Americans; the Indians inform us that they Speak the Same language with
our Selves, and gave us proofs of their varacity by repeating maney
words of English, Sun of a pitch &c. whether those traders are from
Nootka Sound, from Some other late establishment on this Coast, or
imediately from the U States or Great Brittain, I am at a loss to
determine, nor Can the Indians inform us. the Indians whome I have
asked in what direction the traders go when they depart from hence,
allways point to the S. W. from which it is prosumeable that Nootka
cannot be their distination, and from Indian information a majority of
those traders annually visit them about the beginning of April and
remain Some time and either remain or revisit them in the fall of which
I cannot properly understand, from this Circumstance they Cannot Come
directly from the U States or Great Brittain, the distance being to
great for them to go and return in the ballance of a year. I am
Sometimes induced to believe that there is Some other Establishment on
the Coast of America South of this place of which little is but yet
known to the world, or it may be perhaps on Some Island in the Pacific
Ocian between the Continant of America & Asia to the S. W. of us. This
traffic on the part of the whites Consist in vending, guns, principally
old British or American Musquets, powder, balls and Shote, brass tea
kettles, Blankets from two to three points, Scarlet and blue Cloth
(Coarse), plates and Strips of Sheet Copper and brass, large brass wire
Knives Beeds &Tobacco with fishing hooks, buttons and Some other Small
articles; also a considerable quantity of Salors Clothes, as hats,
Coats, Trouses and Shirts. for those they receive in return from the
nativs Dressed and undressed Elk Skins, Skins of the Sea otter, Common
Otter, beaver, common fox, Speck, and tiger Cat, also Some Salmon dried
or pounded and a kind of buisket, which the nativs make of roots called
by them Shappelell. The nativs are extravigantly fond of the most
Common Cheap Blue and white beeds, of moderate Size, or Such that from
50 to 70 will way one pennyweight, the blue is usially prefured to the
white; those beeds Constitute the principal Circulating medium with all
the Indian tribes on this river; for those beeds they will dispose of
any article they possess-. the beeds are Strung on Straps of a fathom
in length & in that manner Sold by the breth or yard-.
[Lewis, January 15, 1806]
Thursday January 15th 1806.
Had a large coat completed out of the skins of the Tiger Cat and those
also of a small animal about the size of a squirrel not known to me;
these skins I procured from the Indians who had previously dressed them
and formed them into robes; it took seven of these robes to complete
the coat. we had determined to send out two hunting parties today but
it rained so incessantly that we posponed it. no occurrence worthy of
relation took place today.
The implyments used by the Chinnooks Clatsops Cuthlahmahs &c in hunting
are the gun the bow & arrow, deadfalls, pitts, snares, and spears or
gigs; their guns are usually of an inferior quality being oald refuse
American & brittish Musquits which have been repared for this trade.
there are some very good peices among them, but they are invariably in
bad order; they apear not to have been long enouh accustomed to fire
arms to understand the management of them. they have no rifles. Their
guns and amunition they reserve for the Elk, deer and bear, of the two
last however there are but few in their neighbourhood. they keep their
powder in small japaned tin flasks which they obtain with their
amunition from the traders; when they happen to have no ball or shot,
they substitute gravel or peices of potmettal, and are insensible of
the damage done thereby to their guns. The bow and arrow is the most
common instrument among them, every man being furnished with them
whether he has a gun or not; this instrument is imployed
indiscriminately in hunting every species of anamal on which they
subsist. Their bows are extreamly neat and very elastic, they are about
two and a half feet in length, and two inches in width in the center,
thence tapering graduly to the extremities where they are half an inch
wide they are very flat and thin, formed of the heart of the arbor vita
or white cedar, the back of the bow being thickly covered with sinews
of the Elk laid on with a gleue which they make from the sturgeon; the
string is made of sinues of the Elk also. the arrow is formed of two
parts usually tho sometime entire; those formed of two parts are
unequally divided that part on which the feathers are placed occupyes
four fifths of it's length and is formed of light white pine reather
larger than a swan's quill, in the lower extremity of this is a
circular mortice secured by sinues roled arround it; this mortice
receives the one end of the 2nd part which is of a smaller size than
the first and about five inches long, in the end of this the barb is
fixed and confined with sinue, this barb is either stone, iron or
copper, if metal in this form forming at it's point a greater angle
than those of any other Indians I have observed. the shorter part of
the arrow is of hearder wood as are also the whole of the arrow when it
is of one piece only. as these people live in a country abounding in
ponds lakes &c and frequently hunt in their canoes and shoot at fowl
and other anamals where the arrow missing its object would be lost in
the water they are constructed in the manner just discribed in order to
make them float should they fall in the water, and consequently can
again he recovered by the hunter; the quiver is usually the skin of a
young bear or that of a wolf invariably open at the side in stead of
the end as the quivers of other Indians generally are; this
construction appears to answer better for the canoe than if they were
open at the end only. maney of the Elk we have killed since we have
been here, have been wounded with these arrows, the short piece with
the barb remaining in the animal and grown up in the flesh.--the
deadfalls and snares are employed in taking the wolf the raccoon and
fox of which there are a few only. the spear or gig is used to take the
sea otter, the common otter, spuck, and beaver. their gig consists of
two points or barbs and are the same in their construction as those
discribed before as being common among the Indians on the upper part of
this river. their pits are employed in taking the Elk, and of course
are large and deep, some of them a cube of 12 or 14 feet. these are
usually placed by the side of a large fallen tree which as well as the
pit lye across the toads frequented by the Elk. these pitts are
disguised with the slender boughs of trees and moss; the unwary Elk in
passing the tree precipitates himself into the pitt which is
sufficiently deep to prevent his escape, and is thus taken.
[Clark, January 15, 1806]
Friday 15th of January 1806
Capt. Lewis had a large Coat finished made of the Skins of the tiger
Cat, and those of the Small animal about the Size of Small Cat not
known to me; those Skins were precured from the Indians who had
previously dressed them and formed them into robes; it took Seven of
those robes to Complete the Coat. no occurrence worthey of remark took
place. rained hard all day. The imployments used by the Chinnooks
Clatsops, Cath lah mahs Kil a mox &c. in hunting are the gun the bow &
arrow, dead falls, Pitts, Snares, and Spears or gigs; their guns are
usially of an inferior quallity being old refuse american or brittish
muskets which have been repared for this trade there are Some verry
good pieces among them, but they are invariably in bad order they
appear not to be long enough acquainted with fire arms to understand
the management of them. They have no rifles. Their guns and amunition
they reserve for the Elk, Deer, and Bear, of the two last however there
are but fiew in their neighbourhoods. they keep their powder in Small
japaned tin flasks which they obtain with their amunition from the
traders; when they happen to have no Ball or Shot they Substitute
Gravel and are insenceable of the dammage done thereby to their Guns.
The Bow and arrow is the most common instrement among them, every man
being furnished with them whether he has a gun or not, this instrement
is imployed indiscreminately in hunting every Species of animal on
which they Subsist, Their bows are extreemly meet neat and very
elastic, they are about two feet Six inches long and two inches wide in
the Center, thence tapering gradually to the extremities, where they ar
3/4 of an Inch wide, they are very flat and thin, formed of the heart
of the arbor vita or white Cedar, the back of the Bow being thickly
Covered with Sinues of the Elk laid on with a Gleue which they make
from the Sturgeon; the String is made of the Sinues of the Elk also,
the arrow is formed of two parts usually tho Sometimes entire; those
formed of 2 parts are uneaquilly devided, the part on which the
feathers are placed occupie 4/5 of it's length and is formed of light
white pine rather larger than a Swans quill, in the lower extremity of
this is a Circular mortice Secured by Sinues raped around it; this
mortice recives the one end of the 2d part which is of Smaller Size
than the first and about five inches long, in the end of this the barb
is fixed and Confined with Sinues, the berb is either Iron Copper or
Stone--in this form forming at its point a greater angle than those of
any other Indians I have observed. The Shorter part of the arrow is of
harder wood, as are also the whole of the arrow where it is of one
piece only. as these people live in a Countrey abounding in Ponds lakes
&c. and frequently hunt in their Canoes and Shoot at fowls and other
animals where the arrow missing its object would be lost in the water
they are constructed in the Manner just discribed in order to make them
flote Should they fall in the water, and Consequently Can again be
recovered by the hunter; the quiver is useally the Skin of a young bear
or that of a wolf invariably open at the Side in Sted of the end, as
the quiver of other Indians generally are, this Construction appears to
answer better for the Canoe, than if they were open at the end only.
maney of the Elk which our hunters have killd. Sence we have been here
have been wounded with those arrows, the Short piece with the barbe
remaining in the Animal and grown up in the flesh.--the Deadfalls &
Snares are employd in takeing the Wolf, the racoon and fox of which
there are a fiew. the Spear or gig is used to take the Sea otter,
Spuck, & Beaver. The gig consists of two points or birbs and are the
Same in their Construction as those which are Common among the Indians
on the upper part of this river and before discribed. Their pitts are
employed in takeing the Elk, and of Course are large and Deep, Some of
them a Cube of 12 or 14 feet, those ar commonly placed by the Side of a
large fallen tree which as well as the pitt lie across the roads
frequented by the Elk, these pitts are disguised with the Slender bows
of trees & moss; the unwarry Elk in passing the tree precipates himself
into the Pitt which is Sufficiently deep to prevent his escape.-
[Lewis, January 16, 1806]
Friday January 16th 1806.
This evening we finished curing the meat. no occurrence worthy of
relation took place today. we have plenty of Elk beef for the present
and a little salt, our houses dry and comfortable, and having made up
our minds to remain until the 1st of April, every one appears content
with his situation and his fare. it is true that we could even travel
now on our return as far as the timbered country reaches, or to the
falls of the river; but further it would be madness for us to attempt
to proceede untill April, as the indians inform us that the snows lye
knee deep in the plains of Columbia during the winter, and in these
plains we could scarcely get as much fuel of any kind as would cook our
provision as we descended the river; and even were we happyly over
these plains and again in the woody country at the foot of the Rocky
Mountains we could not possibly pass that immence barrier of mountains
on which the snows ly in winter to the debth in many places of 20 feet;
in short the Indians inform us that they are impracticable untill about
the 1st of June, at which time even there is an abundance of snow but a
scanty subsistence may be obtained for the horses.--we should not
therefore forward ourselves on our homeward journey by reaching the
rocky mountains early than the 1st of June, which we can easily effect
by seting out from hence on the 1st of April.
The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. in fishing employ the common streight net,
the scooping or diping net with a long handle, the gig, and the hook
and line. the common net is of different lengths and debths usually
employed in taking the sammon, Carr and trout in the inlets among the
marshey grounds and the mouths of deep creeks. the skiming or scooping
net to take small fish in the spring and summer season; the gig and
hook are employed indiscriminately at all seasons in taking such fish
as they can procure by their means. their nets and fishing lines are
made of the silk-grass or white cedar bark; and their hooks are
generally of European manufactary, tho before the whites visited them
they made hooks of bone and other substances formed in the following
manner A C, and C. B. are two small pieces of bone about the size of a
strong twine, these are flattened and leveled off of their extremities
near C. where they are firmly attatched together with sinues and
covered with rosin. C A. is reduced to a sharp point at A where it is
also bent in a little; C B. is attatched to the line, for about half
it's length at the upper extremity B. the whole forming two sides of an
accute angled triangle.
[Clark, January 16, 1806]
Saturday 16th January 1806
This evening we finished cureing the meat. no occurrence worthey of
relation took place to day. we have a plenty of Elk beef for the
present and a little Salt, our houses dry and Comfortable, haveing made
up our minds to Stay untill the 1st of April every one appears
contented with his Situation, and his fair. it is true we Could travel
even now on our return as far as the timbered Country reaches, or to
the falls of the river, but further it would be madness for us to
attempt to proceed untill april, as the indians inform us that the
Snows lyes knee deep in the Columbian Plains dureing the winter, and in
those planes we could not git as much wood as would Cook our provisions
untill the drift wood comes down in the Spring and lodges on the Shore
&c. and even were we happily over those plains and in the woodey
countrey at the foot of the rockey mountains, we could not possibly
pass that emence bearier of mountains on which the Snow lyes in winter
to the debth in maney placs of 20 feet; in Short the Indians tell us
they impassable untill about the 1s of June, at which time even then is
an abundance of snow but a Scanty Subsistance may be had for the
horses--we Should not foward our homeward journey any by reaching the
Rocky mountains earlier than the 1st of June which we can effect by
Setting out from hence by the 1st of April
The Clatsops, Chinnooks &c. in fishing employ the Common Streight net,
the Scooping or dipping net with a long handle, the gig, and the hook
and line. the Common nets are of different lengths and debths usually
employd in takeing the Salmon, Carr and trout in the inlets among the
marshey grounds and the mouths of deep Creeks,--the Skiming or scooping
nets to take Smaller fish in the Spring and Summer Season; the gig and
hook are employed indiscreminately at all Seasons in takeing Such fish
as they Can precure by these means. their nets and fishing lines are
made of the Silk Grass or white Cedar bark; and their hooks are
generally of European manufactory, tho before the whites visited them
they made their Hooks of bone and other Substances formed in the
following manner A C and B C are two Small pieces of bone about the
Size of a Strong twine, these are flattened & beaveled off to their
extremites at C, where they are firmley attached together and Covered
with rozin C A is reduced to a Sharp point at A where it is also bent
in a little; C B is attached to the line, at the upper extremity B. the
whole forming two Sides of an accute angled triangle. the line has a
loop at D which it is anexed to a longer line and taken off at
pleasure. Those Hooks are yet common among the nativs on the upper
parts of the Columbia river for to Catch fish in Deep places.
[Lewis, January 17, 1806]
Saturday January 17th 1806
This morning we were visited by Comowool and 7 of the Clatsops our
nearest neighbours, who left us again in the evening. They brought with
them some roots and buries for sale, of which however they disposed of
but very few as they asked for them such prices as our stock in trade
would not license us in giving. the Chief Comowool gave us some roots
and buries for which we gave him in return a mockerson awl and some
thread; the latter he wished for the purpose of making a skiming net.
one of the party was dressed in three very eligant Sea Otter skins
which we much wanted; for these we offered him many articles but he
would not dispose of them for any other consideration but blue beads,
of these we had only six fathoms left, which being 4 less than his
price for each skin he would not exchange nor would a knife or an
equivalent in beads of any other colour answer his purposes, these
coarse blue beads are their favorite merchandiz, and are called by them
tia Commashuck or Chiefs beads. the best wampum is not so much esteemed
by them as the most inferior beads. Sent Coalter out to hunt this
morning, he shortly after returned with a deer, venison is a rarity
with us we have had none for some weeks. Drewyer also set out on a
hunting excertion and took one man with him. he intends both to hunt
the Elk and trap the beaver.
The Culinary articles of the Indians in our neighbourhood consist of
wooden bowls or throughs, baskets, wooden spoons and woden scures or
spits. Their wooden bowls and troughs are of different forms and sizes,
and most generally dug out of a solid piece; they are ither round or
simi globular, in the form of a canoe, cubic, and cubic at top
terminating in a globe at bottom; these are extreemly well executed and
many of them neatly carved the larger vessels with hand-holes to them;
in these vessels they boil their fish or flesh by means of hot stones
which they immerce in the water with the article to be boiled. they
also render the oil of fish or other anamals in the same manner. their
baskets are formed of cedar bark and beargrass so closely interwoven
with the fingers that they are watertight without the aid of gum or
rosin; some of these are highly ornamented with strans of beargrass
which they dye of several colours and interweave in a great variety of
figures; this serves them the double perpose of holding their water or
wearing on their heads; and are of different capacites from that of the
smallest cup to five or six gallons; they are generally of a conic form
or reather the segment of a cone of which the smaller end forms the
base or bottom of the basket. these they make very expediciously and
dispose off for a mear trifle. it is for the construction of these
baskets that the beargrass becomes an article of traffic among the
natives this grass grows only on their high mountains near the snowey
region; the blade is about 3/8 of an inch wide and 2 feet long smoth
pliant and strong; the young blades which are white from not being
exposed to the sun or air, are those most commonly employed,
particularly in their neatest work. Their spoons are not remarkable nor
abundant, they are generally large and the bole brawd. their meat is
roasted with a sharp scure, one end of which is incerted in the meat
with the other is set erect in the ground. the spit for roasting fish
has it's upper extremity split, and between it's limbs the center of
the fish is inscerted with it's head downwards and the tale and
extremities of the scure secured with a string, the sides of the fish,
which was in the first instance split on the back, are expanded by
means of small splinters of wood which extend crosswise the fish. a
small mat of rushes or flags is the usual plate or dish on which their
fish, flesh, roots or burries are served. they make a number of bags
and baskets not watertight of cedar bark, silk-grass, rushes, flags and
common coarse sedge. in these they secure their dryed fish, rooots,
buries, &c.
[Clark, January 17, 1806]
Sunday 17th January 1806
This morning we were visited by Comowool and 7 of the Clatsops our
nearest neighbours, who left us again in the evening. They brought with
them Some roots and beries for Sale, of which however they disposed of
very fiew as they asked for them Such prices as our Stock in trade
would not licence us in giveing. The Chief Comowool gave us Some roots
and berries, for which we gave him in return a mockerson awl and Some
thread; the latter he wished for the purpose of makeing a Skiming Net.
one of the party was dressed in three verry elegant Sea otter Skins
which we much wanted; for these we offered him maney articles but he
would not dispose of them for aney other Consideration but Blue beeds,
of those we had only Six fathoms left, which being 4 less than his
price for each Skin he would not exchange nor would a Knife or any
other equivolent in beeds of aney other Colour answer his purpose;
these Coarse blue beeds are their favourite merchandize and are Called
by them Tia com ma shuck or Chief beeds, the best Wampom is not as much
esteemed by them as the most indifferent beeds. Sent Colter out to hunt
he Shortly after returned with a Deer, Venison is a rarity with us we
have had none for Some weeks. Drewyer Set out on a hunting expedition
one man went with him. he intends to hunt the Elk and trap the beaver.
The Culianary articles of the Indians in our neighbourhood Consists of
wooden bowls or troughs, Baskets, Shell and wooden Spoons and wooden
Scures or Spits, their wooden Bowles and troughs are of different forms
and Sizes, and most generally dug out of Solid piecies; they are either
round, Square or in the form of a canoe; those are extreemly well
executed and maney of them neetly covered, the larger vessels with
handholes to them; in these vessels they boil their fish or flesh by
means of hot Stones which they immerce in the water with the articles
to be boiled. They also render the Oil of the fish, or other animals in
the Same manner. Their baskets are formed of Cedar bark and bargrass So
closely interwoven withe hands or fingers that they are watertight
without the aid of gum or rozin; Some of those are highly ornimented
with the Straps of bargrass which they dye of Several Colours and
interweave in a great variety of figures; this Serves a double purpose
of holding the Water or wareing on their heads; and are of different
Capacities, from that of a Smallest Cup to five or Six gallons, they
are generally of a Conic form or reather the Segment of a Cone of which
the Smaller end forms the base or bottom of the basket. these they make
verry expediciously and dispose of for a mear trifle. it is for the
Construction of those baskets that Bargrass becoms an article of
traffic among the nativs of the Columbia. this grass grows only on
their mountains near the Snowey region; the blade is about 3/8 of an
inch wide and 2 feet long Smothe plient & Strong; the young blades
which are white from not being exposed to the Sun or air, are those
which are most Commonly employ'd, particularly in their neatest work.
Their wooden Spoons are not remarkable nor abundant, they are large &
the bowls broad. their meat is roasted with a Sharp Scure, one end of
which is incerted in the meat while the other is Set erect in the
ground. The Spit for roasting fish has its upper extremity Split, and
between its limbs the Center of the fish is incerted with its head
downwards, and the tale and the extremities of the Scure Secured with a
String, the Side of the fish, which was in the first instance Split in
the back, are expanded by means of Small Splinters of wood which extend
Crosswise the fish. a Small mat of rushes or flags is the usual plate,
or Dish on which their fish, flesh, roots & berries are Served. they
make a number of Bags and Baskets not water tight of Cedar bark Silk
Grass, rushes, flags, and common Gorse Sedge-. in those they Secure
their dried fish, roots berries &.-
[Lewis, January 18, 1806]
Sunday January 18th 1806.
Two of the Clatsops who were here yesterday returned today for a dog
they had left; they remained with us a few hours and departed. no
further occurrence worthy of relation took place. the men are still
much engaged in dressing skins in order to cloath themselves and
prepare for our homeward journey. The Clatsops Chinnooks &c construct
their houses of timber altogether. they are from 14 to 20 feet wide and
from 20 to 60 feet in length, and acommodate one or more families
sometimes three or four families reside in the same room. thes houses
are also divided by a partition of boards, but this happens only in the
largest houses as the rooms are always large compared with the number
of inhabitants. these houses are constructed in the following manner;
two or more posts of split timber agreeably to the number of divisions
or partitions are furst provided, these are sunk in the ground at one
end and rise perpendicularly to the hight of 14 or 18 feet, the tops of
them are hollowed in such manner as to receive the ends of a round beam
of timber which reaches from one to the other, most commonly the whole
length of the building, and forming the upper part of the roof; two
other sets of posts and poles are now placed at proper distances on
either side of the first, formed in a similar manner and parrallel to
it; these last rise to the intended hight of the eves, which is usually
about 5 feet. smaller sticks of timber are now provided and are placed
by pares in the form of rafters, resting on, and reaching from the
lower to the upper horizontal beam, to both of which they are attatched
at either end with the cedar bark; two or three ranges of small poles
are now placed horizontally on these rafters on each side of the roof
and are secured likewise with strings of the Cedar bark. the ends sides
and partitions are then formed with one range of wide boards of abut
two inches thick, which are sunk in the ground a small distance at
their lower ends and stand erect with their upper ends Taping on the
outside of the eve poles and end rafters to which they are secured by
an outer pole lying parallel with the eve poles and rafters being
secured to them by chords of cedar bark which pass through wholes made
in the boards at certain distances for that purpose; the rough roof is
then covered with a double range of thin boards, and an aperture of 2
by 3 feet left in the center of the roof to permit the smoke to pass.
these houses are sometimes sunk to the debth of 4 or 5 feet in which
cace the eve of the house comes nearly to the surface of the earth. in
the center of each room a space of six by eight feet square is sunk
about twelve inches lower than the floor having it's sides secured with
four sticks of squar timber, in this space they make their fire, their
fuel being generally pine bark. mats are spread arround the fire on all
sides, on these they set in the day and frequently sleep at night. on
the inner side of the hose on two sides and sometimes on three, there
is a range of upright peices about 4 feet removed from the wall; these
are also sunk in the ground at their lower ends, and secured at top to
the rafters, from these other peices ar extended horizontally to the
wall and are secured in the usual method by bark to the upright peices
which support the eve poles. on these short horizontal pieces of which
there are sometimes two ranges one above the other, boards are laid,
which either form ther beads, or shelves on which to put their goods
and chattles of almost every discription. their uncured fish is hung on
sticks in the smoke of their fires as is also the flesh of the Elk when
they happen to be fortunate enough to procure it which is but seldom.
[Clark, January 18, 1806]
Monday 18th January 1806
Two of the Clatsops that were here yesterday returned to day for a Dog
they had left; they remained with us a fiew hours and departed. no
further accounts worthey of relation took place. the men are much
engaged dressing Skins in order to Cloath themselves and prepare for
the homeward journey.
The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. construct their Houses of timber altogether.
they are from 14 to 20 feet wide, and from 20 to 60 feet in length, and
accomodate one or more families Sometimes three or four families reside
in the Same room. this house is also devided by petitions of Boards,
but this happens only in the largest houses, as the rooms are always
large Compared with the number of inhabitents. those houses are
Constructed in the following manner; two or more posts of Split timber
agreeably to the number of devisions or partitions are first provided,
these are Sunk in the ground at one end and raised pirpindicular to the
hight of 12 or 14 feet, the top of them are hollowed So as to recive
the end of a round beem of timber which reaches from one to the other
or the entire length of the house; and forming the ridge pole; two
other Sets of posts and poles are then placed at proper distancies on
either Side of the first, formed in a Similar manner and parrelal to
it; those last rise to the intended hight of the eves, which is usially
about 5 feet,--Smaller Sticks of timber is then previded and are placed
by pears in the form of rafters, resting on, and reaching from the
lower to the upper horizontial beam, to both of which they are atached
at either end with the Cedar bark; two or 3 ranges of Small poles are
then placed Horizontially on these rafters on each Side of the roof &
are Secured likewise with Cedar bark. the ends, Sides, and partitions
are then formed, with one range of wide boards of about 2 inches thick,
which are Sunk in the ground a Small distance at their lower ends &
Stands erect with their upper ends lapping on the out Side of the eve
poles and end rafters to which they are Secured by a outer pole lyeing
parrelal with the eve pole and rafters being Secured to them by Cords
of Cedar bark which pass through wholes made in the bods at Certain
distances for that purpose; the rough roof is then Covered with a
double range of thin boards, and an aperture of 2 by 3 feet left in the
Center of the roof to admit the Smoke to pass. These houses are
commonly Sunk to the debth of 4 or 5 feet in which Case the eve of the
house comes nearly to the Surface of the earth. in the Center of each
room a Space of from 6 by 8 feet is Sunk about 12 inches lower than the
Hoar haveing its Sides Secured by four thick boards or Squar pieces of
timber, in this Space they make their fire, their fuel being generally
dry pine Split Small which they perform with a peice of an Elks horn
Sharpened at one end drove into the wood with a Stone. mats are Spred
around the fire on all Sides, on these they Sit in the day and
frequently Sleep at night. on the inner Side of the house on two Sides
and Sometimes on three, there is a range of upright pieces about 4 feet
removed from the wall; these are also Sunk in the ground at their lower
end, and Secured at top to the rafters, from those, other pieces are
extended horozontially to the wall and are Secured in the usial manner
with bark to the upright pieces which Support the eve pole. on these
Short horizontial peics of which there are Sometimes two ranges one
above the other, boards are laid, which either form their beads, or
Shelves on which to put their goods and Chattles, of almost every
discription. their uncured fish is hung on Sticks in the Smoke of their
fires as is also the flesh of the Elk when they happen to be fortunate
enough to precure it which is but Seldom
[Lewis, January 19, 1806]
Monday January 19th 1806.
This morning sent out two parties of hunters, consisting of Collins and
Willard whom we sent down the bay towards point Adams, and Labuish and
Shannon whom we sent up Fort River; the fist by land and the latter by
water. we were visited today by two Clatsop men and a woman who brought
for sale some Sea Otter skins of which we purchased one, giving in
exchange the remainder of our blue beads consisting of 6 fathoms and
about the same quantity of small white beads and a knife. we also
purchased a small quantity of train oil for a pair of Brass armbands
and a hat for some fishinghooks. these hats are of their own
manufactory and are composed of Cedar bark and bear grass interwoven
with the fingers and ornimented with various colours and figures, they
are nearly waterproof, light, and I am convinced are much more durable
than either chip or straw. These hats form a small article of traffic
with the Clatsops and Chinnooks who dispose of them to the whites. the
form of the hat is that which was in vogue in the Ued States and great
Britain in the years 1800 & 1801 with a high crown reather larger at
the top than where it joins the brim; the brim narrow or about 2 or
21/2 inches.
Several families of these people usually reside together in the same
room; they appear to be the father & mother and their sons with their
son's wives and children; their provision seems to be in common and the
greatest harmoney appears to exist among them. The old man is not
always rispected as the head of the family, that duty most commonly
devolves on one of the young men. They have seldom more than one wife,
yet the plurality of wives is not denyed them by their customs. These
families when ascociated form nations or bands of nations each
acknoledging the authority of it's own chieftain who dose not appear to
be heriditary, nor his power to extend further than a mear repremand
for any improper act of an individual; the creation of a chief depends
upon the upright deportment of the individual & his ability and
disposition to render service to the community; and his authority or
the deference paid him is in exact equilibrio with the popularity or
voluntary esteem he has acquired among the individuals of his band or
nation. Their laws like those of all uncivilized Indians consist of a
set of customs which have grown out of their local situations. not
being able to speak their language we have not been able to inform
ourselves of the existence of any peculiar customs among them.
[Clark, January 19, 1806]
Tuesday 19th of January 1806
This morning Sent out two parties of hunters, one party towards Point
adams and the other party up Ne tel River by water. we were visited to
day by two Clatsop men and a woman who brought for Sale Some Sea otter
Skins of which we purchased one gave in exchange the remainder of our
blue heeds Consisting of 6 fathoms, and the Same quantity of Small
white beids and a knife. we also purchased a Small quantity of train
oil for a par of Brass arm bands, and a hat for Som fishinghooks. these
hats are of their own manufactory and are Composed of Cedar bark and
bear grass interwoven with the fingers and ornimented with various
Colours and figures, they are nearly water proof, light, and I am
Convinced are much more dureable than either Chip or Straw,--These hats
form a article of traffic with Clatsops an Chinnooks who dispose of
them to the whites, the form of the Hats is that which was in voge in
the U States and Great Britain in 1800 & 1801 with a high Crown rather
larger at the top than where it joins the brim, the brim narrow about 2
or 21/2 inches.
Several families of those people usially reside together in the Same
room; they appear to be the father mother with their Sons and their
Sons wives and children; their provisions appears to be in common and
the greatest harmoney appears to exist among them. the old man is not
always respected as the head of the family that duty generally devolves
on one of the young men. They have Sildom more than• one wife, yet
plurality of wives are not denyed them by their Customs. those families
when associated form bands of nations each acknowledgeing the authority
of its own Chieftains, who does not appear to be herititary, or has
power to extend further than a mear repremand for any improper
deportment of the indevidual; the Creation of a Chief depends upon the
upright Conduct of the individual his abiltity and disposition to
render Service to the Comunity, and his authority and the defference
paid him is in extent equilibrio with the popolarity or volintary
esteem he has acquired among the individuals of his band, or nation.
Their Laws like all uncivilized Indians Consist of a Set of customs
which has grown out of their local Situations. not being able to Speak
their language we have not been able to inform ourselves of the
existance of any peculiar Customs among them.
[Lewis, January 20, 1806]
Tuesday January 20th 1806.
Visited this morning by three Clatsops who remained with us all day;
the object of their visit is mearly to smoke the pipe. on the morning
of the eighteenth we issued 6 lbs. of jirked Elk pr. man, this evening
the Sergt. repoted that it was all exhausted; the six lbs. have
therefore lasted two days and a half only. at this rate our seven Elk
will last us only 3 days longer, yet no one seems much concerned about
the state of the stores; so much for habit. we have latterly so
frequently had our stock of provisions reduced to a minimum and
sometimes taken a small touch of fasting that three days full allowance
excites no concern. In those cases our skill as hunters afford us some
consolation, for if there is any game of any discription in our
neighbourhood we can track it up and kill it. most of the party have
become very expert with the rifle. The Indians who visited us today
understood us sufficiently to inform us that the whites did not barter
for the pounded fish; that it was purchased and consumed by the
Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cathlahmah's and Skillutes. The native roots which
furnish a considerable proportion of the subsistence of the indians in
our neighbourhood are those of a species of Thistle, fern and rush; the
Liquorice, and a small celindric root the top of which I have not yet
seen, this last resembles the sweet pittatoe very much in it's flavor
and consistency.
[Clark, January 20, 1806]
Wednesday 20th January 1806
Visited this morning by three Clapsots who remained with us all day;
the object of their visit is mearly to Smoke the pipe. on the morning
of the 18 inst. we issued 6 wt. of jurked meat pr. man, this evening
the Serjt. reports that is all exhosted; the 6 w. have therefore lasted
2 days and a half only. at this rate our Seven Elk will only last us 3
days longer, yet no one appears much concerned about the State of the
Stores; So much for habet. we have latterly so frequently had our Stock
of provisions reduced to a minimum and Sometimes taken a Small tuck of
fasting that 3 days full allowance exites no concern. In those Cases
our Skill as hunters affords us Some Consolation, for if there is any
game of any discription in our neighbourhood we can track it up and
kill it. most of the party have become very expert with the rifle. The
Indians who visit us to day understood us Sufficiently to inform us
that the white who visit them did not barter for the pounded fish; that
it was purchased and Consumed by the Clatsops, Chin nooks, Cath lah
mahs and Skil lutes, and Kil a moxs.
The native roots which furnish a considerable proportion of the
Subsistance of the indians in our neighbourhoodd are those of a Species
of Thistle, fern, and rush; the Licquorice, and a Small celindric root
the top of which I have not yet Seen, this last resembles the Sweet
potato verry much in its flavour and Consistency.
[Lewis, January 21, 1806]
Wednesday January 21st 1806.
Two of the hunters Shannon & Labuish returned having killed three Elk.
Ordered a party to go in quest of the meat early tomorrow morning and
the hunters to return and continue the chase. the Indians left us about
12 O'Clk. The root of the thistle, called by the natives shan-ne-tahque
is a perpendicular fusiform and possesses from two to four radicles; is
from 9 to 15 Inces in length and about the size a mans thumb; the rhind
somewhat rough and of a brown colour; the consistence when first taken
from the earth is white and nearly as crisp as a carrot; when prepared
for uce by the same process before discribed of the white bulb or
pashshequo quawmash, it becomes black, and is more shugary than any
fuit or root that I have met with in uce among the natives; the sweet
is precisely that of the sugar in flavor; this root is sometimes eaten
also when first taken from the ground without any preperation; but in
this way is vastly in-ferior. it delights most in a deep rich dry lome
which has a good mixture of sand. the stem of this plant is simple
ascending celindric and hisped. the root leaves yet possess their
virdure and are about half grown of a plale green. the cauline leaf as
well as the stem of the last season are now dead, but in rispect to
it's form &c. it is simple, crenate, & oblong, reather more obtuse at
it's apex than at the base or insertion; it's margin armed with
prickles while it's disks are hairy, it's insertion decurrent and
position declining. the flower is also dry and mutilad. the pericarp
seems much like that of the common thistle. it rises to the hight of
from 3 to 4 feet.-
[Clark, January 21, 1806]
Thursday 21st of January 1806
Two of the hunters Shannon & Labieche returned haveing killed three
Elk, ordered a party to go in quest of the meat early tomorrow morning
and the hunters to return and continue the chase-. the Indians left us
about 12 oClock.
The root of the thistle called by the nativs Chan-ne-tak-que is
pirpendicular and possesses from two to 4 radicles; is from 9 to 15
inches in length and is Commonly about the Size of a mans thum the
rhine Somewhat rough and of a brown Colour; the Consistence when first
taken from the earth is white and nearly as Crisp as a Carrot, when
prepared for use by the Same process before discribed of the white bulb
or gash she quo, qua-mosh, it becomes black and is more Sugary than any
root I have met with among the nativs; the Sweet is prosisely that of
the Sugar in flavor, this root is Sometimes eaten when first taken from
the ground without any preperation, in this way it is well tasted but
soon weathers and becoms hard and insipped. it delights most in a deep
rich moist lome which has a good mixture of Sand--The Stems of this
plant is Simple ascending celindric and hisped. the root leaves, posses
their virdue and are about half grown of a deep Green. the Cauline leaf
as well as the Stem of the last Season are now dead, but in respect to
it's form &c. it is Simple Crenated and oblong, rather more obtuce at
it's apex than the base or insertion, it's margin armed with prickles
while it's disks are hairy, its insertion decurrent and position
declineing. the flower is also dry and mutilated the pericarp seems
much like that of the Common thistle it rises to the hight of from 3 to
4 feet.
[Lewis, January 22, 1806]
Thursday January 22nd 1806.
The party sent for the meat this morning returned with it in the
Evening; it was in very inferior order, in short the animals were poor.
Reubin Fields also remained with the other hunters Shannon & Labuish
our late supply of salt is out. we have not yet heared a sentence from
the other two parties of hunter's who are below us towards Point Adams
and the Praries.
There are three species of fern in this neighbourhood the root one of
which the natves eat; this grows very abundant in the open uplands and
praries where the latter are not sandy and consist of deep loose rich
black lome. the root is horizontal sometimes a little deverging or
obliquely descending, frequently dividing itself as it procedes into
two equal branches and shooting up a number of stems; it lies about 4
Inces beneath the surface of the earth. the root is celindric, with few
or no radicles and from the size of a goose quill to that of a man's
finger; the center of the root is divided into two equal parts by a
strong flat & white ligament like a piece of thin tape on either side
of this there is a white substance which when the root is roasted in
the embers is much like wheat dough and not very unlike it in flavour,
though it has also a pungency which becomes more visible after you have
chewed it some little time; this pungency was disagreeable to me, but
the natives eat it very voraciously and I have no doubt but it is a
very nutricious food. the bark of the root is black, somewhat rough,
thin and brittle, it easily seperates in flakes from the part which is
eaten as dose also the internal liggament. this root perennil. in rich
lands this plant rises to the hight of from 4 to five feet. the stem is
smooth celindric, slightly groved on one side erect about half it's
hight on the 2 first branches thence reclining backwards from the
grooved side; it puts forth it's branches which are in reallyty long
footstalks by pares from one side only and near the edges of the
groove, these larger footstalks are also grooved cilindric and
gradually tapering towards the extremity, puting forth alternate
footstalks on either side of the grove near it's edge; these lesser
footstalks the same in form as the first put forth from forty to fifty
alternate pinate leaves which are sessile, horizontal, multipartite for
half their length from the point of insertion and terminating in a long
shaped apex, and are also revolute with the upper disk smoth and the
lower slightly cottanny. these alternate leaves after proceeding half
the length of the footstalk cease to be partite and assume the tongue
like form altogether. this plant produces no flower or fruit whatever,
is of a fine green colour in summer and a beautiful) plant. the top is
annual and is of course dead at present.-
[Clark, January 22, 1806]
Friday 22nd January 1806
The party Sent for the meat this morning returned with it in the
evening; it was in verry inferior order, in Short the animals were
pore. Rieuben Field Shannon and Labiech remained in the woods to hunt.
our late Supply of Salt is out. we have not heard a word of the other
hunters who are below us towards point adams and the Praries. Some rain
this day at intervales
There are three Species of fern in this neighbourhood the root one of
which the nativs eate; that of which the nativs eate produce no flowers
whatever or fruit of a fine green Colour and the top is annual, and in
Course dead at present.
I observe no difference between the licorice of this Countrey and that
Common to maney parts of the United States where it is sometimes
Cultivated in our gardins-. this plant delights in a deep lose Sandy
Soil; here it grows verry abundant and large; the nativs roste it in
the embers and pound it Slightly with a Small Stick in order to make it
Seperate more readily from the Strong liggaments which forms the center
of the root; this they discard and chew and Swallow the ballance of the
root; this last is filled with a number of thin membrencies like
network, too tough to be masticated and which I find it necessary also
to discard. This root when roasted possesses an agreeable flavour not
unlike the Sweet potato. The root of the thistle (described yesterday)
after undergoing the process of Sweting or bakeing in a kiln is
Sometimes eaten with the train oil also, at other times pounded fine
and mixed with Cold water, untill reduced to the Consistancy of Gruel;
in this way I think it verry agreeable. but the most valuable of all
their roots is foreign to this neighbourhood I mean the Wappetoe.
The Wappetoe, or bulb of the Sagitifolia or common arrow head, which
grows in great abundance in the marshey grounds of that butifull and
fertile vally on the Columbia commenceing just above the quick Sand
River and extending downwards for about 70 miles. this bulb forms a
principal article of trafic between the inhabitents of the vally and
those of their neighbourhood or Sea coast.
[Lewis, January 23, 1806]
Friday January 23rd 1806.
This morning dispatched Howard and Warner to the Camp of the Saltmakes
for a supply of salt. The men of the garison are still busily employed
in dressing Elk's skins for cloathing, they find great difficulty for
the want of branes; we have not soap to supply the deficiency, nor can
we procure ashes to make the lye; none of the pines which we use for
fuel affords any ashes; extrawdinary as it may seem, the greene wood is
consoomed without leaving the residium of a particle of ashes.
The root of the rush used by the natives is a sollid bulb about one
inch in length and usually as thick as a man's thumb, of an ovate form
depressed on two or more sides, covered with a thin smothe black rind.
the pulp is white brittle and easily masticated either raw or roasted
the latter is the way in which it is most usually prepared for uce.
this root is reather insipid in point of flavour, it grows in greatest
abundance along the sea coast in the sandy grounds and is most used by
the Killamucks and those inhabiting the coast. each root sends up one
stock only which is annual, the root being perenniel. the bulb is
attatched to the bottom of the caulis or stem by a firm small and
strong radicle of about one Inch long; this radicle is mearly the
prolongation of the caulis and decends perpendicilarly; a little above
the junction of this radicle with the caulis, the latter is surrounded
in a whorl with a set of small radicles from 6 to 9 inches long which
are obliquely descending. the caulis is celindric erect hollow and
jointed, and is about the size or reather larger than the largest
quill. it rises to the hight of 3 or 4 feet, not branching nor dose it
either bear flower or seed that I can discover tho I am far from
denying that it dose so sometimes, but I have not been able to discover
it. the stem is rough like the sand rush and is much like it when green
or in it's succulent state. at each joint it puts out from twenty to
thirty long lineal stellate or radiate & horizontal leaves which
surround the stem. above each joint about half an inch the stem is
sheathed like the sand rush.
[Clark, January 23, 1806]
Saturday 23rd of January 1806
This morning dispatched Howard & Werner to the Camp of the Salt makers
for a Supply of Salt. the men of the garrison are Still busily employed
in dressing Elk Skins for cloathing, they fine great dificuelty for the
want of branes; we have not Soap to Supply the deficiency, nor can we
precure ashes to make the lye; none of the pine which we use for fuel
afford any ashes; extrawdinary as it may seem, the green wood is
cosumed without leaveing the risideum of a particle of ashes.-
The root of the rush used by the nativs is a Solid bulb about one inch
in length and usially as thick as a mans thumb, of an ovel form
depressed on two or more Sides, covered with a thin black rine. the
pulp is white brittle and easily masticated either raw or rosted, the
latter is the way it is most commonly prepared for use. this root is
reather insippid in point of flavour, it grows in the Greatest
abundance along the Sea coast in the wet Sandy grounds and is most used
by the Kil a mox and those inhabiting the Sea coast. each root Sends up
its Stalk which is annual, the root being perennial. the bulb is
atached to the bottom of the Stem by a firm Small and Strong radicle
which is mearly the prolongation of the Stem which is hollow and
jointed and is rather larger than the largest quill. it rises to the
hight of 3 or 4 feet, not branching no does it either bear flower or
Seed that I could discover tho I am far from denying that it does So
Sometimes, and perhaps every year, but I have not been able to discover
it, the Stem is rough like the Sand rush, and it's much like it when
green, at each joint it puts out from 20 to 30 radiate & horizontal
leaves which Surrounds the Stem. above each joint about half an inch
the Stem is Shethed like the Sand rush.
The instruments used by the nativs in digging their roots is a Strong
Stick of three feet and a half long Sharpened at the lower end and its
upper inserted into a part of an Elks or buck's horn which Serves as a
handle; Standing transvirsely in the Stick--or it is in this form as
thus A is the lower part which is a little hooked B is the upper part
or handle of Horn.
[Lewis, January 24, 1806]
Saturday January 24th 1806.
Drewyer and Baptiest La Paage returned this morning in a large Canoe
with Comowooll and six Clatsops. they brought two deer and the flesh of
three Elk & one Elk's skin, having given the flesh of one other Elk
which they killed and three Elk's skins to the Indians as the price of
their assistance in transporting the ballance of the meat to the Fort;
these Elk and deer were killed near point Adams and the Indians carryed
them on their backs about six miles, before the waves were sufficiently
low to permit their being taken on board their canoes. the Indians
remained with us all day. The Indians witnissed Drewyer's shooting some
of those Elk, which has given them a very exalted opinion of us as
marksmen and the superior excellence of our rifles compared with their
guns; this may probably be of service to us, as it will deter them from
any acts of hostility if they have ever meditated any such. My Air-gun
also astonishes them very much, they cannot comprehend it's shooting so
often and without powder; and think that it is great medicine which
comprehends every thing that is to them incomprehensible.
I observe no difference between the liquorice of this country and that
common to many parts of the United states where it is also sometimes
cultivated in our gardens. this plant delights in a deep loose sandy
soil; here it grows very abundant and large; the natives roast it in
the embers and pound it slightly with a small stick in order to make it
seperate more readily from the strong liggament which forms the center
of the root; this the natives discard and chew and swallow the ballance
of the root; this last is filled with a number of thin membrenacious
lamela like net work, too tough to be masticated and which I find it
necessary also to discard. this root when roasted possesses an
agreeable flavour not unlike the sweet pittaitoe. beside the small
celindric root mentioned on the 20th inst., they have also another
about the same form size and appearance which they use much with the
train oil, this root is usually boiled; to me it possesses a
disagreeable bitterness. the top of this plant I have never yet seen.
The root of the thistle after undergoing the prossess of sweating or
baking in a kiln is sometimes eaten with the train oil also, and at
other times pounded fine and mixed with could water untill reduced to
the consistency of sagamity or indian mush; in this way I think it very
agreeable. but the most valuable of all their roots is foreign to this
neighbourhood I mean the Wappetoe, or the bulb of the Sagitifolia or
common arrow head, which grows in great abundance in the marshey
grounds of that beatifull and firtile valley on the Columbia commencing
just above the entrance of Quicksand River, and extending downwards for
about 70 Miles. this bulb forms a principal article of traffic between
the inhabitants of the valley and those of this neighbourhood or sea
coast. The instrument used by the natives in diging their roots is a
strong stick of 31/2 feet long sharpened at the lower end and it's
upper inscerted into a part of an Elks or buck's horn which serves as a
handle, standing transversely with the stick or it is in this form A
the lower point, B the upper part or handle.
[Clark, January 24, 1806]
Sunday 24th of January 1806
Drewyer and Bapteist laPage returned this morning in a large Canoe with
Commowol and six Clatsops. they brought two Deer and three Elk and one
elk Skin, haveing given the flesh of one other Elk they killed and
three Elk skins to the Indians as the price of their assistance in
transporting the ballance of the meat to the Fort; these Deer and Elk
were killed near pt. Adams and those Indians Carried them on their
Backs near 4 miles, before the waves were Sufficiently low to permit
their being taken on board their Canoes. The indians remain'd with us
all day. The Clapsots witnessed Drewyers Shooting Some of those Elk,
which has given them a very exolted opinion of us as marksmen and the
Superior excellency of our rifles Compared with their guns; this may
probably be of service to us, as it will deter them from any acts of
hostility if they have ever meditated any such.
our air gun also astonishes them very much, they Cannot Comprehend its
Shooting So often and without powder, and think that it is great
medison which Comprehends every thing that is to them incomprehensible.
The nativs of this neighbourhood ware no further Covering than a light
roabe, their feet legs & every other part exposed to the frost Snow &
ice &c.
[Lewis, January 25, 1806]
Sunday January 25th 1806.
Commowooll and the Clatsops departed early this morning. At meridian
Colter returned and repoted that his comrade hunter Willard had
continued his hunt from point Adams towards the salt makers; and that
they had killed only those two deer which the Indians brought
yesterday. In the evening Collins one of the saltmakers returned and
reported that they had mad about one bushel of salt & that himself and
two others had hunted from the salt camp for five days without killing
any thing and they had been obliged to subsist on some whale which they
procured from the natives.
The native fruits and buries in uce among the Indians of this
neighbourhood are a deep purple burry about the size of a small cherry
called by them Shal-lun, a small pale red bury called Sol'-me; the
vineing or low Crambury, a light brown bury reather larger and much the
shape of the black haw; and a scarlet bury about the size of a small
cherry the plant called by the Canadin Engages of the N. W. sac a
commis produces this bury; this plant is so called from the
circumstance of the Clerks of those trading companies carrying the
leaves of this plant in a small bag for the purpose of smokeing of
which they are excessively fond. the Indians call this bury ____
I have lately learned that the natives whome I have heretofore named as
distinct nations, living on the sea coast S. E. of the Killamucks, are
only bands of that numerous nation, which continues to extend itself
much further on that coast than I have enumerated them, but of the
particular appellations of those distant bands I have not yet been
enabled to inform myself; their language also is somewhat different
from the Clatsops Chinnooks and Cathlahmahs; but I have not yet obtaind
a vocabulary which I shall do the first oportunity which offers.
[Clark, January 25, 1806]
Monday 25th of January 1806
Commowol and the Clatsops departed early this morning. Colter returned
and reported that his comrade hunter Willard had Continued his hunt
from Point Adams towards the Saltmakers; and that they had killed only
those two deer which the indians brought yesterday; in the evening
Collins one of the Saltmakers returned and reported that they had made
about one bushel of Salt and that himself and two others had hunted
from the Salt Camp for five days without killing any thing and they had
been obliged to Subsist on Some whale which they purchased from the
nativs-.
The native fruits and berries in use among the Indians of this
neighbourhood are a Deep purple about the Size of a Small cherry called
by them Shal lun, a Small pale red berry called Sol me; the vineing or
low brown berry, a light brown berry rather larger and much the Shape
of a black haw; and a Scarlet berry about the Size of a Small Chirry
the plant Called by the Canadian Engages of the N. W. Sac a commis
produces this berry; this plant is So Called from the circumstances of
the Clerks of these tradeing Companies Carrying the leaves of this
plant in a Small bag for the purpose of Smokeing of which they are
excessively fond the Indians Call this berry ____
[Lewis, January 26, 1806]
Monday January 26th 1806.
Werner and Howard who were sent for salt on the 23rd have not yet
returned, we are apprehensive that they have missed their way; neither
of them are very good woodsmen, and this thick heavy timbered pine
country added to the constant cloudy weather makes it difficult for
even a good woodsman to steer for any considerable distance the course
he wishes. we ordered Collins to return early in the morning and rejoin
the salt makers, and gave him some small articles of merchandize to
purchase provisions from the Indians, in the event of their still being
unfortunate in the chase. The Shallun or deep purple berry is in form
much like the huckkleberry and terminates bluntly with a kind of cap or
cover at the end like that fruit; they are attatched seperately to the
sides of the boughs of the shrub by a very short stem hanging
underneath the same and are frequently placed very near each other on
the same bough; it is a full bearer. the berry is easily geathered as
it seperates from the bough readily, while the leaf is strongly
affixed. the shrub which produces this fruit rises to the hight of 6 or
8 feet sometimes grows on the high lands but moste generally in the
swampy or marshey grounds; it is an evergreen. the stem or trunk is
from three to 10 Inches in circumference irregularly and much branched,
seldom more than one steem proceding from the same root, tho they are
frequently associated very thickly. the bark is somewhat rough and of a
redish brown colour. the wood is very firm and hard. the leaves are
alternate declining and attatched by a short fotstalk to the two
horizontal sides of the boughs; the form is a long oval, reather more
accute towards its apex than at the point of insertion; it's margin
slightly serrate, it's sides colapsing or partially foalding upwards or
channelled; it is also thick firm smothe and glossey, the upper surface
of a fine deep green, while the under disk is of a pale or whiteish
green. this shrub retains it's virdure very perfectly during the winter
and is a beautifull shrub.--the natives either eat these berrys when
ripe immediately from the bushes or dryed in the sun or by means of
their sweating kilns; very frequently they pound them and bake then in
large loaves of 10 or fifteen pounds; this bread keeps very well during
one season and retains the moist jeucies of the fruit much better than
by any other method of preservation. this bread is broken and stired in
could water until it be sufficiently thick and then eaten; in this way
the natives most generally use it.
[Clark, January 26, 1806]
Tuesday 26th of January 1806
We order Collins to return early in the morning and join the Salt
makers, and gave him Some Small articles of merchendize to purchase
Some provisions from the indians in the event of their Still being
unfortunate in the chase.
The or deep purple berry is in form much like the huckleberry and
termonate bluntly with a kind of Cap or cover at the end like that
fruit; they are attached Seperately to the Sides of the boughes of the
shrub by a very Short Stem ganging under neath the Same, and are
frequently placed verry near each other on the Same bough it is a full
bearer; the berry is easily gathered as it Seperates from the bough,
readily, while the leaf is Strongly affixed. the Shrub which produces
this fruit rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet Sometimes grows on high
lands but most frequently in Swampy or marshey grounds; it is an ever
green. the Stem or trunk is from 3 to 10 inches in circumferance
irrigularly and much branched, Seldom more than one Stem proceeding
from the Same root, tho they are frequently associated very thickly.
the bark is Somewhat rough and of a redish brown Colour. the wood is
very firm and hard. the leaves are alternate declining and attachd by a
Short fotstalk to the two horozontal Sides of the bough's; the form is
a long oval, reather more accute towards its apex that at the point of
insertion; it's Sides partially folding upwards; or Channeled, it is
also thick Smothe and glossy, the upper Surfice of a fine deep green,
while the under disk is of a pale or whiteish green. this Shrub retains
its verdure verry perfectly dureing the winter and is a butifull
Shrub-. the nativs either eate those berries ripe imediately from the
bushes, or dried in the Sun or by means of the Swetting kiln; verry
frequently they pound them and bake them in large loaves 10 or 15
pounds weight; this bread keeps verry well dureing one Season and
retains the moist jouicies of the frute much better than any other
method of preperation. The bread is broken and Stured in Coald water
untill it be Sufficiently thick and then eaten, in this way the nativ's
most generally use it-.-.
[Lewis, January 27, 1806]
Tuesday January 27th 1806.
This morning Collins set out for the Salt works. in the evening Shannon
returned and reported that himself and party had killed ten Elk. he
left Labuche and R. fields with the Elk. two of those Elk he informed
us were at the distance of nine miles from this place near the top of a
mountain, that the rout by which they mus be brought was at least four
miles by land through a country almost inaccessible from the fallen
timber, brush and sink-holes, which were now disgused by the snow; we
therefore concluded to relinquish those two Elk for the present, and
ordered every man who could be speared from the fort to go early in the
morning in surch of the other eight.
Goodrich has recovered from the Louis veneri which he contracted from
an amorous contact with a Chinnook damsel. I cured him as I did Gibson
last winter by the uce of murcury. I cannot learn that the Indians have
any simples which are sovereign specifics in the cure of this disease;
and indeed I doubt very much wheter any of them have any means of
effecting a perfect cure. when once this disorder is contracted by them
it continues with them during life; but always ends in decipitude,
death, or premature old age; tho from the uce of certain simples
together with their diet, they support this disorder with but little
inconvenience for many years, and even enjoy a tolerable share of
health; particularly so among the Chippeways who I believe to be better
skilled in the uce of those simples than any nation of Savages in North
America. The Chippeways use a decoction of the root of the Lobelia, and
that of a species of sumac common to the Atlantic states and to this
country near and on the Western side of the Rocky Mountains. this is
the smallest species of the sumac, readily distinguished by it's winged
rib, or common footstalk, which supports it's oppositely pinnate
leaves. these decoctions are drank freely and without limitation. the
same decoctions are used in cases of the gonnaerea and are effecatious
and sovereign. notwithstanding that this disorder dose exist among the
Indians on the Columbia yet it is witnessed in but few individuals, at
least the males who are always sufficiently exposed to the observations
or inspection of the phisician. in my whole rout down this river I did
not see more than two or three with the gonnaerea and about double that
number with the pox.
The beary which the natives call solme is the production of a plant
about the size and much the shape of that common to the atlantic states
which produces the berry commonly called Solloman's seal berry. this
berry also is attatched to the top of the stem in the same manner; and
is of a globelar form, consisting of a thin soft pellecle which
encloses a soft pulp inveloping from three to four seeds, white, firm,
smothe, and in the form of a third or quarter of a globe, and large in
proportion to the fruit or about the size of the seed of the common
small grape. this berry when grown and unripe is not speckled as that
of the Solomon's seal berry is; this last has only one globular smoth
white firm seed in each berry.the Solme grows in the woodlands among
the moss and is an annual plant to all appearance.
[Clark, January 27, 1806]
Wednesday 27th January 1806
This morning Collins Set out to the Saltmakers Shannon returned and
reported that himself and party had killed 10 Elk. he lef Labiech & R
Field with the Elk, two of those Elk he informed us was at the distance
of 9 miles from this place near the top of a mountain, that the rout by
which they must be brought was at least 5 miles by land thro a Countrey
almost inexcessable, from the fallen timber brush, and Sink holes,
which were now disguised by the Snow; we therefore Concluded to
relinquish those two Elks for the present, and ordered every man that
Could be Speared from the Fort to go early in the morning in Serch of
the other Eight, which is at no great distance from the Netul river, on
which we are. Goudrich has recoverd from the louis veneri which he
contracted from a amorous Contact with a Chinnook damsel. he was Cured
as Gibson was with murcury by ____ I cannot lern that the Indians have
any Simples Sovereign Specifics in the cure of this disease; indeed I
doubt verry much whether any of them have any means of effecting a
perfect cure. when once this disorder is contracted by them it
Continues with them dureing life; but always ends in decepitude, death;
or premature old age; tho from the use of certain Simples together with
their diet, they Support this disorder with but little inconveniance
for maney years, and even enjoy a tolerable Share of health;
particularly So among the Chippeways who I beleive to be better Skilled
in the use of those Simples than any nation of Indians in North
America. The Chippaways use a decoction of the root of the Labelia, and
that of a Species of Sumac Common to the Atlantic States and to this
countrey near and on the western Side of the Rocky mountains. This is
the Smallest Specis of Sumake, readily distinguished by it's winged
rib, or common footstalk, which Supports it's oppositly pinnate leaves.
these decoctions are drank freely and without limatation. the Same
decoctions are used also in cases of the gonnarea and are effecatious
and sovereign. notwithstanding that this disorder does exist among the
indians on the Columbia yet it is witnessed in but fiew individuals
high up the river, or at least the males who are always Sufficiently
exposed to the observation or inspection of the phisician. in my whole
rout down this river I did not See more than two or three with Gonnarea
and about double that number with the Pox.
The berry which the nativs Call Sol me is the production of a plant
about the Size and much the Shape of that Common to the atlantic States
which produces the berry Commonly Called Sollomons Seal berry this
berry is also attached to the top of the Stem in the Same manner; and
is of a globular form Consisting of a thin Soft Pellicle rine which
encloses a Soft Pellicle pulp inveloping from 3 to 4 Seed, white firm,
Smothe, and in the form of a third or a quarter of a Globe, and large
in perportion to the fruit, or about the Size of the Seed of the Common
Small grape. the berry when grown and unripe is not Specked as the
Solomon's seal Berry is; this last haveing only one Globaler Smothe,
ferm, white Seed in each berry-. the Sol me grows in the wood lands
amonge the moss and on the high ridges. and is an annual plant to all
appearance
[Lewis, January 28, 1806]
Wednesday January 28th 1806.
Drewyer and Baptiest La Page set out this morning on a hunting
excurtion. about noon Howard and Werner returned with a supply of salt;
the badness of the weather and the difficulty of the road had caused
their delay. they inform us that the salt makers are still much
straitened for provision, having killed two deer only in the last six
days; and that there are no Elk in their neighbourhood. The party that
were sent this morning up Netul river for the Elk returned in the even
ing with three of them only; the Elk had been killed just before the
snow fell which had covered them and so altered the apparent face of
the country that the hunters could not find the Elk which they had
killed. the river on which Fort Clatsop stands we now call Ne-tul, this
being the name by which the Clatsops call it.
The Cranbury of this neighbourhood is precisely the same common to the
U States, and is the production of marshey or boggy grounds. The light
brown berry, is the fruit of a tree about the size shape and appearance
in every rispect with that in the U. States called the wild crab apple;
the leaf is also precisely the same as is also the bark in texture and
colour. the berrys grow in clumps at the end of the small branches;
each berry supported by a seperate stem, and as many as from 3 to 18 or
20 in a clump. the berry is ovate with one of it's extremities
attatched to the peduncle, where it is in a small degre concave like
the insertion of the stem of the crab apple. I know not whether this
fruit can properly be denominated a berry, it is a pulpy pericarp, the
outer coat of which is in a thin smoth, tho firm tough pillecle; the
pericarp containing a membranous capsule with from three to four cells,
each containing a seperate single seed in form and colour like that of
the wild crab. The wood of this tree is excessively hard when seasoned.
the natives make great uce of it to form their wedges with which they
split their boards of pine for the purpose of building houses. these
wedges they also employ in spliting their fire-wood and in hollowing
out their canoes. I have seen the natives drive the wedges of this wood
into solid dry pine which it cleft without fracturing or injuring the
wedg in the smallest degree. we have also found this wood usefull to us
for ax handles as well as glutts or wedges. the native also have wedges
made of the beams of the Elk's horns which appear to answer extremely
well. this fruit is exceedingly assid, and resembles the flavor of the
wild crab.
[Clark, January 28, 1806]
Thursday 28th January 1806
Drewyer and Baptiest Lapage Set out this morning on a hunting
excurtion. about noon Howard & Werner returned with a Supply of Salt;
the badness of the weather and the dificuelty of the road had detained
them. they informed us that the Salt makers are Still much Stratened
for provisions haveing killed two deer only in the last Six days; and
that there are no Elk in their neighbourhood.
The party that was Sent up the Netul river for the Elk returned this
evening with three of them only; The Elk had been killed just before
the Snow fell which had Covered them and So altered the apparant face
of the Countrey that the hunters Could not find them. The River on
which Fort Clat Sop Stands we now call Netul, this being the name by
which the Clatsops Call it.
The Cranberry of this neighbourhood is precisely the Same Common to the
united States, and is the production of boggy or mashey grounds.-.
The light-brown berry, is the fruit of a tree, about the Size Shape and
appearance in every respect with that in the united States called the
wild Crab apple; the leaf is also presisely the Same as is also the
bark in textue and colour. the berry grows in Clumps at the ends of the
Smaller branches; each berry Supported by a Stem, and as maney as from
3 to 18 or 20 in a Clump. the berry is oval with one of its extremitis
attatched to the peduncle, where it is in a Small degree Concave like
the insersion of the Stem of the Crab apple. I know not whether this
fruit Can properly be denomonated a berry, it is a pulpy pericarp, the
outer coat of which is a thin Smothe, capsule with from three to four
Cells, each containing a Seperate Single Seed in form and Colour like
that of the wild Crab apple The wood of this tree is excessively hard
when Seasoned. The nativs make great use of it to form their wedges of
which they Split their boards of Pine for the purpose of building
houses. those wedges they employ in common with those formed of the
Elks horn, in Splitting their fire wood and in hollowing out their
Canoes. I have Seen the nativs drive the wedges of this wood into a
solid dry pine which it cleft without fractureing injuring the wedge in
the Smallest degree. we have also found this wood useful) to us for ax
handles, as well as glutt or wedges. The bark of this tree is chewed by
our party in place of tobacco.
The fruit is exceedingly ascid and resembles the flavor of the wild
Crab.
[Lewis, January 29, 1806]
Thursday January 29th 1806.
Nothing worthy of notice occurred today. our fare is the flesh of lean
elk boiled with pure water, and a little salt. the whale blubber which
we have used very sparingly is now exhausted. on this food I do not
feel strong, but enjoy the most perfect health;--a keen appetite
supplys in a great degree the want of more luxurious sauses or dishes,
and still render my ordinary meals not uninteresting to me, for I find
myself sometimes enquiring of the cook whether dinner or breakfast is
ready.-
The Sac a commis is the growth of high dry situations, and invariably
in a piney country or on it's borders. it is generally found in the
open piney woodland as on the Western side of the Rocky mountain but in
this neighbourhood we find it only in the praries or on their borders
in the more open wood lands; a very rich soil is not absolutely
necessary, as a meager one frequently produces it abundantly. the
natives on this side of the Rockey mountains who can procure this berry
invariably use it; to me it is a very tasteless and insippid fruit.
this shrub is an evergreen, the leaves retain their virdure most
perfectly through the winter even in the most rigid climate as on lake
Winnipic. the root of this shrub puts forth a great number of stems
which seperate near the surface of the ground; each stem from the size
of a small quill to that of a man's finger; these are much branched the
branches forming an accute angle with the stem, and all more poperly
pocumbent than creeping, for altho it sometimes puts forth radicles
from the stem and branches which strike obliquely into the ground,
these radicles are by no means general, equable in their distances from
each other nor do they appear to be calculated to furnish nutriment to
the plant but reather to hold the stem or branch in it's place. the
bark is formed of several thin layers of a smoth thin brittle substance
of a dark or redish brown colour easily seperated from the woody stem
in flakes. the leaves with rispect to their position are scatered yet
closely arranged near the extremities of the twigs particularly. the
leaf is about 3/4 of an inch in length and about half that in width, is
oval but obtusely pointed, absolutely entire, thick, smoth, firm, a
deep green and slightly grooved. the leaf is supported by a small
footstalk of proportionable length. the berry is attatched in an
irregular and scattered manner to the small boughs among the leaves,
tho frequently closely arranged, but always supported by seperate short
and small peduncles, the insertion of which poduces a slight concavity
in the bury while it's opposite side is slightly convex; the form of
the berry is a spheroid; the shorter diameter being in a line with the
peduncle.--this berry is a pericarp the outer coat of which is a thin
firm tough pellicle, the inner part consists of a dry mealy powder of a
yellowish white colour invelloping from four to six proportionably
large hard light brown seeds each in the form of a section of a
spheroid which figure they form when united, and are destitute of any
membranous covering.--the colour of this fruit is a fine scarlet. the
natives usually eat them without any preperation. the fruit ripens in
september and remains on the bushes all winter. the frost appears to
take no effect on it. these berries are sometimes geathered and hung in
their lodges in bags where they dry without further trouble, for in
their most succulent state they appear to be almost as dry as flour.
[Clark, January 29, 1806]
Friday 29th January 1806
Nothing worthey of notice occured to day. our fare is the flesh of lean
Elk boiled with pure water and a little Salt. the whale blubber which
we have used very Spearingly is now exhosted. on this food I do not
feel Strong, but enjoy tolerable health-. a keen appetite Supplies in a
great degree the want of more luxurious Sauses or dishes, and Still
renders my ordanary meals not uninteresting to me, for I find myself
Sometimes enquireing of the Cook whether dinner Supper or Brackfast is
readyindeed my appetite is but Seldom gratified, not even after I have
eaten what I conceve a Sufficency.-
Maney of the nativs of the Columbia were hats & most commonly of a
conic figure without a brim confined on the head by means of a String
which passes under the chin and is attached to the two opposit Sides of
a Secondary rim within the hat--the hat at top termonates in a pointed
knob of a conic form, or in this Shape. these hats are made of the bark
of Cedar and beargrass wrought with the fingers So closely that it
Casts the rain most effectually in the Shape which they give them for
their own use or that just discribed, on these hats they work various
figures of different colours, but most commonly only black and white
are employed. these figures are faint representations of the whales,
the Canoes, and the harpooners Strikeing them. Sometimes Square dimonds
triangle &c. The form of a knife which Seems to be prefured by those
people is a double Edged and double pointed dagger the handle being
near the middle, the blades of uneaquel length, the longest from 9 to
10 incs. and the Shorter one from 3 to 5 inches. those knives they
Carry with them habitually and most usially in the hand, Sometimes
exposed, when in Company with Strangers under their Robes with this
knife they Cut & Clense their fish make their arrows &c. this is the
form of the Knife A is a Small loop of a Strong twine throng through
which they Sometimes they incert the thumb in order to prevent it being
wrested from their hand.-.
[Lewis, January 30, 1806]
Friday January 30th 1806.
Nothing transpired today worthy of notice. we are agreeably
disappointed in our fuel which is altogether green pine. we had
supposed that it burn but illy, but we have found that by spliting it
that it burns very well. The dress of the Clatsops and others in this
neighbourhood differs but little from that discribed of the skillutes;
they never wear leggins or mockersons which the mildness of this
climate I presume has rendered in a great measure unnecessary; and
their being obliged to be frequently in the water also renders those
articles of dress inconvenient. they wear a hat of a conic figure
without a brim confined on the head by means of a string which passes
under the chin and is attatched to the two opsite sides of a secondary
rim within the hat. the hat at top terminates in a pointed knob of a
connic form also, or in this shape. these hats are made of the bark of
cedar and beargrass wrought with the fingers so closely that it casts
the rain most effectually in the shape which they give them for their
own uce or that just discribed. on these hats they work various figures
of different colours, but most commonly only black and white are
employed. these figures are faint representations of whales the canoes
and the harpoonneers striking them. sometimes squares dimonds triangles
&c. The form of knife which seems to be prefered by these people is a
double edged and double pointed daggar; the handle being in the middle,
and the blades of unequal lengths, the longest usually from 9 to ten
inches and the shorter one from four to five. these knives they carry
with them habitually and most usually in the hand, sometimes exposed
but most usually particularly when in company with strangers, under
their robes with this knife they cut and clense their fish make their
arrows &c. this is somewhat the form of the knife--A is a small loop of
a strong twine through which they sometimes insert the thumb in order
to prevent it's being wrested from their hand.
[Clark, January 30, 1806]
Fort Clatsop on the Pacific Ocian
on the South Side of the Columbia River
Thursday 30th January 1806
Nothing transpired to day worthey of notice. we are agreeably
disapointed in our fuel which is altogether green pine. we had Supposed
that it burned badly, but we have found by Spliting it burns very well.
The dress of the Clatsops and others of the nativs in the neighbourhood
differ but little from that described of the Skilutes and Wau ki a
cums; they never ware ligins or mockersons which the mildness of the
Climate I presume has rendered in a great measure unnecessary; and
their being obliged to be frequently in the water also renders those
articles of dress inconveniant.
The Sac-a commis is the groth of high dry Situations, and invariably in
a piney Country, or on its borders; it is Generally found in the open
piney woodlands as on the Western Side of the Rocky mountains but in
this neighbourhood we find it in the praries or on the borders in the
more open woodland's; a very rich Soil is not absolutely necessary, as
a meager one frequently produces it abundantly. the nativs on the West
side of the Rocky mountains who can precure this berry invariably use
it; to me it is a very tasteless and insipid frute. This Shrub is an
evergreen, the leaves retain their virdue most perfectly throughout the
winter even in the most rigid climate as on Lake Winnipic. the root of
this shrub puts foth a great number of Stems, which seperate near the
surface of the ground; each Stem from the size of a Small quill, to
that of a mans finger. These are much branched forming an accute angle
with the Stem, and all more properly procumbent than crossing, for
altho it sometimes puts foth radicles from the Stems and branches which
Strike obliquely into the ground, those radicles are by no means
general, equable in their distances from each other nor do they appear
to be calculated to furnish nutriment to the plant but rather to hold
the Stem or branch in its place. the bark is formed of several thin
layers of a Smothe thin brittle substance of a redish brown colour
easily seperated from the woody Stem in flakes. the leaves with respect
to their possition are scatter'd yet closely arranged near the
extremities of the twigs particularly. the leaves are about 3/4 of an
inch in length and about half that in width, is oval but obtusely
pointed, absolutely entire, thick, Smoth, firm, a deep green and
slightly grooved. the leaf is Supported by a Small footstalk of
preportionable length. the berry is attached in an irregular and
Scattered manner to the Small boughs among the leaves, tho frequently
Closely arranged, but always Supported by a Seperate Short and Small
peduncles, the incersion of which produces a Small concavity in the
berry while its opposit side is Slightly convex; the form of the berry
is a Spheroid, the Shorter diameter being in a line with the peduncle
or Stem-. this berry is a pericarp the outer Coat of which is a thin
firm tough pellicle, the inner part consists of dry mealy powder of a
yellowish white colour invelloping from four to six propotionably large
hard light brown seeds each in the form of section of a spheroid which
figure they form when united, and are distitute of any membranous
covering.--the colour of this fruit is a fine scarlet. the nativs
usually eat them without any preparation. the fruit ripens in September
and remains on the bushes all winter. the frost appears to take no
effects on it. these berries are Sometimes gathered and hung in their
houses in bags where they dry without further trouble, for in their
succulent State they appear to be almost as dry as flour.
[Lewis, January 31, 1806]
Saturday January 31st 1806.
Sent a party of eight men up the river this morning to renew their
surch for the Elk and also to hunt; they proceded but a few miles
before they found the river so obstructed with ice that they were
obliged to return. Joseph Fields arrived this evening, informed us that
he had been hunting in company with Gibson and Willard for the last
five days in order to obtain some meat for himself and the other Salt
makers, and that he had been unsuccessfull untill yesday evening when
he had fortunately killed two Elk, about six miles distant from this
place and about 8 from the salt works; he left Gibson and Willard to
dry the meat of these Elk and had come for the assistance of some men
to carry the meat to the salt camp; for this purpose we ordered four
men to accompany him early in the morning. discovered that McNeal had
the pox, gave him medecine. Charbono found a bird dead lying near the
fort this morning and brought it to me I immediately recognized it to
be of the same kind of that which I had seen in the Rocky mountains on
the morning of the 20th of September last. this bird is about the size
as near as may be of the robbin. it's contour also is precisely the
same with that bird. it measures one foot 31/4 Inches from tip to tip
of the wings when extended. 91/4 inches from the extremity of the beak
to that of the tail. the tail is 33/4 inches in length, and composed of
eleven feathers of the same length. The beak is smoth, black, convex
and cultrated; one and 1/8 inches from the point to the opening of the
chaps and 3/4 only uncovered with feathers; the upper chap exceeds the
other a little in length. a few small black hairs garnish the sides of
the base of the upper chap. the eye is of a uniform deep sea green or
black, moderately large. it's legs feet and tallons are white; the legs
are an inch and a 1/4 in length and smoth; four toes on each foot, of
which that in front is the same length with the leg including the
length of the tallon, which is 4 lines; the three remaining toes are
3/4 of an inch, each armed with proportionably long tallons. the toes
are slightly imbricated. the tallons are curved and sharply pointed.
The crown of the head from the beak back to the neck, the back of the
neck imbracing reather more than half the circumpherence of the neck,
the back and tale, are of bluish dark brown; the two outer feathers of
the tale have a little dash of white near their tips not percemtible
when the tail is foalded. a fine black forms the ground of the wings;
two stripes of the same colour pass on either side of the head from the
base of the beak along the side of the head to it's junction with the
neck, and imbraces the eye to it's upper edge; a third stripe of the
same colour 3/4 of an inch in width passes from the sides of the neck
just above the butts of the wings across the croop in the form of a
gorget. the throat or under part of the neck brest and belly is of a
fine yellowish brick red. a narrow stripe of this colour also commences
just above the center of each eye, and extends backwards to the neck as
far as the black stripe reaches before discribed, to which, it appears
to answer as a border. the feathers which form the 1st and second
ranges of the coverts of the two joints of the wing next the body, are
beautifully tiped with this brick red; as is also each large feather of
the wing on the short side of it's plumage for 1/2 an inch in length
commening at the extremity of the feathers which form the first or main
covert of the wing. this is a beatifull little bird. I have never heard
it's note it appears to be silent. it feeds on berries, and I beleive
is a rare bird even in this country, or at least this is the second
time only that I have seen it.--between the legs of this bird the
feathers are white, and those which form the tuft underneath the tail
are a mixture of white and a brick red.
[Clark, January 31, 1806]
Friday January 31st 1806
Sent a party of Eight men with the hunters to renew their Serch for the
Elk, and also to hunt; they proceeded but a fiew miles before they
found the river So obstructed with ice that they were obliged to
return. Jo. Field arrives this evening, informs us That he had been
hunting in Company with gibson and willard for the last four days in
order to obtain some meat for himself and the other Salt-makers, and
that he had been unsucksessfull untill yesterday evening when he had
fortunately killed two Elk, about six miles distant from this place and
about 8 from the Salt works; he left gibson and willard to dry the meat
of those Elk, and had come for assistance to carry the meat to the Salt
Camp; for this purpose we ordered four men to accompany him early in
the morning. discovered that McNeal had the pox, gave him medicine.
Chabono found a bird dead lying near the Fort this morning and brought
it in, I reconized it to be the Same kind of that which I had Seen in
the Rocky Mountains at severl different times. this berd is about the
Size as near as may be of the robin. it's contour is also presisely the
Same with that bird. it measured one foot 3/4 inches from tip to tip of
the wings when extended. 91/4 inches from the extremity of the beak to
that of the tail. the tail is 33/4 inches in length, and Composed of 11
feathers of the Same length. The beak is Smoth, black, convex and
cultrated; 1 1/8 inchs from the point to the opening of the Chaps and
3/4 only uncovered with feathers, the upper Chap exceeds the other a
little in length. a fiew Small black hairs garnish the Side of the
upper chap. The Eye is of a uniform deep Sea green or black, moderately
large. it's legs feet and tallants are white; the legs are of 11/4 in
length and Smoth; four toes on each foot, of which that in front is the
Same length of the leg including the tallants, which is 4 lines; the 3
remaining toes are 3/4 of an inch, each armed with proportianably large
tallons. the toes are Slightly imbricated. the tallons are curved and
Sharply pointed. The Crown of the head from the beak back to the neck
imbracing rather more than half the circumphrence of the neck, the Back
and tail is of a bluish dark brown; the two outer feathers of the tail
have a little dash of white near the tips, not proceivable when the
tail is foalded. a fine black forms the ground of the wings; two
Stripes of the same colour passes on either side of the Head from the
base of the Back along the Side of the head to it's junction with the
neck, and embraces the eye to its upper edge; a third Stripe of the
Same Colour 3/4 of an inch in width passes from the Side of the neck
just above the buts of the wings across the troop in the form of a
gorget. the throat or under part of the neck brest and belly is of a
fine Yellowish brick red. a narrow Stripe of this Colour also Commences
just above the center of each eye, and extends backwards to the Neck as
far as the black Spots reaches before discribed, to which it appears to
answer as a border. the feathers which form the 1st and Second range of
the coverts of the two joints of the wings next the body are butifully
aped with this Brick red; as is also each large feather of the wing on
the Short Side of its plumage for 1/2 an inch in length Comencing at
the extremity of the feather which form the first or main Covert of the
wing. This is a butifull little bird. I have never herd its notes it
appears to be Silent. it feeds on berries, and I believe is a rare bird
even in this country-. between the legs of this bird the feathers are
white, and those which form the tuft underneath the tail are a mixture
of white and Brick red.
Part III: Journal Entries of January 1806
- Details
- Written by: Meriwether Lewis and and William Clark
- Category: The Journals of Lewis and Clark 1804-1806