[Clark, November 1, 1805]
November 1st Friday 1805
a verry cold morning wind from N. E and hard Set all hands packing the
loading over th portage which is below the Grand Shutes and is 940
yards of bad way over rocks & on Slipery hill Sides The Indians who
came down in 2 Canoes last night packed their fish over a portage of
21/2 miles to avoid a 2d Shute. four of them took their canoes over the
1st portage and run the 2d Shute, Great numbers of Sea otters, they are
So Cautious that I with deficuelty got a Shute at one to day, which I
must have killed but Could not get him as he Sunk
We got all our Canoes and baggage below the Great Shute 3 of the canoes
being Leakey from injures recved in hauling them over the rocks,
obliged us to delay to have them repaired a bad rapid just below us
three Indian canoes loaded with pounded fish for the &c. trade down the
river arrived at the upper end of the portage this evening. I Can't
lern whether those Indians trade with white people or Inds. below for
the Beeds & copper, which they are So fond of--They are nearly necked,
prefuring beeds to anything--Those Beeds they trafick with Indians
Still higher up this river for Skins robes &c. &c. The Indians on those
waters do not appear to be Sickly, Sore eyes are Common and maney have
lost their eyes, Some one and, maney both, they have bad teeth, and the
greater perpotion of them have worn their teeth down, maney into the
gums, They are rather Small high Cheeks, women Small and homely, maney
of them had Sweled legs, large about the knees,-owing to the position
in which they Set on their hams, They are nearly necked only a piece of
leather tied about their breech and a Small robe which generally comes
to a little below their wastes and Scercely Sufficely large to cover
arround them when confined--they are all fond of Clothes but more So of
Beeds perticularly blue & white beeds. They are durty in the extreme
both in their Coockery and in their houses.
Those at the last Village raise the beads about five feet from the
earth-under which they Store their Provisions--Their houses is about 33
feet to 50 feet Square, the Bore of which is about 30 Inc. high and 16
Inches wide in this form cut in a wide pine board they have maney
imeges Cut in wood, generally, in the figure of a man--Those people are
high with what they have to Sell, and Say the white people below Give
them great Prices for what they Sell to them. Their nose are all
Pierced, and the wear a white Shell maney of which are 2 Inch long
pushed thro the nose--all the women have flat heads pressed to almost a
point at top The press the female childrens heads between 2 bords when
young-untill they form the Skul as they wish it which is generally
verry flat. This amongst those people is considered as a great mark of
butyand is practised in all the tribes we have passed on this river
more or less. men take more of the drugery off the women than is common
with Indians
[Clark, November 1, 1805]
November 1st Friday 1805
A verry Cool morning wind hard from the N. E. The Indians who arrived
last evining took their Canoes on ther Sholders and Carried them below
the Great Shute, we Set about takeing our Small Canoe and all the
baggage by land 940 yards of bad Slippery and rockey way The Indians we
discoverd took ther loading the whole length of the portage 21/2 miles,
to avoid a Second Shute which appears verry bad to pass, and thro which
they passed with their empty canoes. Great numbers of Sea Otters, they
are So cautious that I with dificuelty got a Shot at one to day, which
I must have killed, but could not get him as he Sunk
we got all our baggage over the Portage of 940 yards, after which we
got the 4 large Canoes over by Slipping them over the rocks on poles
placed across from one rock to another, and at Some places along
partial Streams of the river. in passing those canoes over the rocks
&c. three of them recived injuries which obliged us to delay to have
them repared.
Several Indian Canoes arrived at the head of the portage, Some of the
men accompanied by those from the village came down to Smoke with us,
they appear to Speak the Same language with a little different axcent
I visited the Indian Village found that the Construction of the houses
Similar to those abov described, with this difference only that they
are larger Say from 35 to 50 feet by 30 feet, raised about 5 feet above
the earth, and nearly as much below The Dores in the Same form and Size
cut in the wide post which Supports one end of the ridge pole and which
is carved and painted with different figures & Hieroglyphics Those
people gave me to eate nuts berries & a little dried fish, and Sold me
a hat of ther own taste without a brim, and baskets in which they hold
their water--Their beads are raised about 41/2 feet, under which they
Store away their dried fish, between the part on which they lie and the
back wall they Store away their roots burries nuts and valuable
articles on mats, which are Spread also around the fire place which is
Sunk about one foot lower than the bottom fore of the house, this fire
place is about 8 feet long and Six feet wide Secured with a fraim those
houses are calculated for 4, 5 & 6 families, each familey haveing a
nice painted ladder to assend up to their beads. I Saw in those houses
Several wooden Images all cut in imitation of men, but differently
fasioned and placed in the most conspicious parts of the houses,
probably as an orniment I cannot lern certainly as to the traffick
those Inds. carry on below, if white people or the indians who trade
with the Whites who are either Settled or visit the mouth of this
river. I believe mostly with the latter as their knowledge of the white
people appears to be verry imperfect, and the articles which they
appear to trade mostly i e Pounded fish, Beargrass, and roots; cannot
be an object of comerce with furin merchants--however they git in
return for those articles Blue and white beeds copper Tea Kitties,
brass arm bands, some Scarlet and blue robes and a fiew articles of old
clothes, they prefer beeds to any thing and will part with the last
mouthfull or articles of clothing they have for a fiew of those beeds,
those beeds the trafick with Indians Still higher up this river for
roabs, Skins, cha-pel-el bread, beargrass &c. who in their turn trafick
with those under the rockey mountains for Beargrass, Pashico roots &
robes &c.
The nativs of the waters of the Columbia appear helthy, Some have
turners on different parts of their bodies, and Sore and weak Eyes are
common, maney have lost their Sight entirely great numbers with one eye
out and frequently the other verry weak; This misfortune I must again
asscribe to the water &c. They have bad teeth, which is not common with
indians, maney have worn their teeth down and Some quite into their
gums, this I cannot Satisfactorily account for it, do ascribe it in
some measure to their method of eateing, their food, roots pertiularly,
which they make use of as they are taken out of the earth frequently
nearly covered with Sand, I have not Seen any of their long roots
offered for Sale clear of Sand. They are rether below the Common Size
high cheeks womin Small and homely, and have Swelled legs and thighs,
and their knees remarkably large which I ascribe to the method in which
they Sit on their hams-go nearly necked wareing only a piece of leather
tied about their breast which falls down nearly as low as the waste, a
Small roabe about 3 feet Square, and a piece of leather tied about
their breach, They have all flat heads in this quarter They are tirty
in the extream, both in their person and cooking, ware their hare loose
hanging in every direction. They asc high prices for what they Sell and
Say that the white people below give great prices for every thing &c.
The noses are all pierced and when they are dressed they have a long
tapered piece of white shell or wampum put through the nose, Those
Shells are about 2 inches in length. I observed in maney of the
villeages which I have passed, the heads of the female children in the
press for the purpose of compressing their heads in their infancy into
a certain form, between two boards
[Clark, November 2, 1805]
Novr. 2d Saturday 1805
Meridian altitude 59° 45' 45" made a portage of about 11/2 miles with
half of the Baggage, and run the rapid with the Canoes without much
damage, one Struck a rock & Split a little, and 3 others took in Some
water 7 Squars Came over the portage loaded with Dried fish &
Beargrass, Soon after 4 men Came down in a Canoe after takeing
brackfast, & after taking a meridian altitude we Set out Passed 2 bad
rapids one at 2 & the other at 4 mile below the Isd on Lard. and upper
end of Strawberry Island on the Stard. Side from the Creek end of last
Course
We Labiech killed 14 Geese & a Brant, Collins one Jos. Fields & R 3
those gees are much Smaller than Common, and have white under their
rumps & around the tale, The tide rises here a fiew 9 Inches, I cannot
assertain the prosise hite it rises at the last rapid or at this
placeof Camp.
The Indians we left at the portage passed us this evening one other
Canoe Come up
[Clark, November 2, 1805]
November 2nd Saturday 1805
Examined the rapid below us more pertcelarly the danger appearing too
great to Hazzard our Canoes loaded, dispatched all the men who could
not Swim with loads to the end of the portage below, I also walked to
the end of the portage with the carriers where I delayed untill everry
articles was brought over and canoes arrived Safe. here we brackfast
and took a Meridn. altitude 59°45'45" about the time we were Setting out
7 Squars came over loaded with Dried fish, and bear grass neetly
bundled up, Soon after 4 Indian men came down over the rapid in a large
canoe. passed a rapid at 2 miles & 1 at 4 miles opposit the lower point
of a high Island on the Lard Side, and a little below 4 Houses on the
Stard. Bank, a Small Creek on the Lard Side opposit Straw berry Island,
which heads below the last rapid, opposit the lower point of this
Island passed three Islands covered with tall timber opposit the Beatin
rock Those Islands are nearest the Starboard Side, imediately below on
the Stard. Side passed a village of nine houses, which is Situated
between 2 Small Creeks, and are of the Same construction of those
above; here the river widens to near a mile, and the bottoms are more
extensive and thickly timbered, as also the high mountains on each
Side, with Pine, Spruce pine, Cotton wood, a Species of ash, and alder.
at 17 miles passed a rock near the middle of the river, about 100 feet
high and 80 feet Diamuter, proceed on down a Smoth gentle Stream of
about 2 miles wide, in which the tide has its effect as high as the
Beaten rock or the Last rapids at Strawberry Island,--Saw great numbers
of waterfowl of Different kinds, Such as Swan, Geese, white & grey
brants, ducks of various kinds, Guls, & Pleaver. Labeach killed 14
brantjoseph Fields 3 & Collins one. we encamped under a high projecting
rock on the Lard. Side, here the mountains leave the river on each
Side, which from the great Shute to this place is high and rugid;
thickly Covered with timber principalley of the Pine Species. The
bottoms below appear extensive and thickly Covered with wood. river
here about 21/2 miles wide. Seven Indians in a Canoe on their way down
to trade with the nativs below, encamp with us, those we left at the
portage passed us this evening and proceeded on down The ebb tide rose
here about 9 Inches, the flood tide must rise here much higher--we made
29 miles to day from the Great Shute-
[Clark, November 3, 1805]
November 3rd Sunday 1805
The fog So thick this morning we did not think it prudent to Set out
untill 10 oClock we Set out and proceeded on verry well, accompanied by
our Indian friends--This morning Labich killed 3 Geese flying Collins
killed a Duck--The water rose Inches last night the effects of tide.
The Countrey has a handsom appearance in advance no mountains extensive
bottoms--the water Shallow for a great distance from Shore-. The fog
continued thick untill 12 oClock, we Coasted, and halted at the mouth
of a large river on the Lard Side, This river throws out emence quanty
of Sand and is verry Shallow, th narrowest part 200 yards wide bold
Current, much resembling the river Plat, Several Islands about 1 mile
up and has a Sand bar of 3 miles in extent imedeately in its mouth,
discharging it waters by 2 mouths, and Crowding its Corse Sands So as
to throw the Columbian waters on its Nothern banks, & confdg it to 1/2
ms. in width Passed a Small Prarie on the Stard. Side above, a large
Creek opposit qk Sand River on the Stard. Side, extensive bottoms and
low hilley Countrey on each Side (good wintering Place) a high peaked
mountain Suppose to be Mt. Hood is on the Lard Side S. 85 E. 40 miles
distant from the mouth of quick Sand river.-
[Clark, November 3, 1805]
November 3rd Sunday 1805
The Fog So thick this morning that we could not See a man 50 Steps off,
this fog detained us untill 10 oClock at which time we Set out,
accompanied by our Indian friends who are from a village near the great
falls, previous to our Setting out Collins killed a large Buck, and
Labiech killed 3 Geese flying. I walked on the Sand beech Lard. Side,
opposit the canoes as they passed allong. The under groth rushes, vines
&c. in the bottoms too thick to pass through, at 3 miles I arrived at
the enterance of a river which appeared to Scatter over a Sand bar, the
bottom of which I could See quite across and did not appear to be 4
Inches deep in any part; I attempted to wade this Stream and to my
astonishment found the bottom a quick Sand, and impassable--I called to
the Canoes to put to Shore, I got into the Canoe and landed below the
mouth, & Capt Lewis and my Self walked up this river about 11/2 miles
to examine this river which we found to be a verry Considerable Stream
Dischargeing its waters through 2 Chanels which forms an Island of
about 3 miles in length on the river and 11/2 miles wide, composed of
Corse Sand which is thrown out of this quick Sand river Compressing the
waters of the Columbia and throwing the whole Current of its waters
against its Northern banks, within a Chanel of 1/2 a mile wide, Several
Small Islands 1 mile up this river, This Stream has much the appearance
of the River Plait; roleing its quick Sands into the bottoms with great
velocity after which it is divided into 2 Chanels by a large Sand bar
before mentioned, the narrowest part of this River is 120 yards-on the
Opposit Side of the Columbia a falls in above this Creek on the Same
Side is a Small prarie. extensive low country on each Side thickly
timbered.
The Quick Sand river appears to pass through the low countrey at the
foot of those high range of mountains in a Southerly direction,--The
large Creeks which fall into the Columbia on the Stard. Side rise in
the Same range of mountains to the N. N. E. and pass through Some
ridgey land--A Mountain which we Suppose to be Mt. Hood is S. 85 E
about 47 miles distant from the mouth of quick sand river This mtn. is
Covered with Snow and in the range of mountains which we have passed
through and is of a Conical form but rugid--after takeing dinner at the
mouth of this river we proceeded on passed the head of a Island near
the lard Side back of which on the Same Side and near the head a large
Creek falls in, and nearly opposit & 3 miles below the upper mouth of
quick Sand river is the lower mouth, This Island is 31/2 miles long,
has rocks at the upper point, Some timber on the borders of this Island
in the middle open and ponney. Some rugid rocks in the middle of the
Stream opposit this Island. proceeded in to Center of a large Island in
the middle of the river which we call Dimond Isld. from its appearance,
here we met 15 Indn men in 2 canoes from below, they informed us they
Saw 3 vestles below &c. &c. we landed on the North Side of this Dimond
Island and Encamped, Capt. L walked out with his gun on the Island,
Sent out hunters & fowlers--below quick Sand River the Countrey is low
rich and thickly timbered on each Side of the river, the Islands open &
Some ponds river wide and emence numbers of fowls flying in every
direction Such as Swan, geese, Brants, Cranes, Stalks, white guls,
comerants & plevers &c. also great numbers of Sea Otter in the river--a
Canoe arrived from the village below the last rapid with a man his wife
and 3 children, and a woman whome had been taken prisoner from the
Snake Inds. on Clarks River I Sent the Interpreters wife who is a So So
ne or Snake Indian of the Missouri, to Speake to this Squar, they Could
not understand each other Sufficiently to Converse. This familey and
the Inds. we met from below continued with us Capt Lewis borrowed a
Small Canoe of those Indians & 4 men took her across to a Small lake in
the Isld. Cap L. and 3 men Set out after night in this Canoe in Serch
of the Swans, Brants Ducks &c. &c. which appeared in great numbers in
the Lake, he Killed a Swan and Several Ducks which made our number of
fowls this evening 3 Swan, 8 brant and 5 Ducks, on which we made a
Sumptious Supper. We gave the Indian-who lent the Canoe a brant, and
Some meat to the others. one of those Indians, the man from the village
near the lower Rapids has a gun with a brass barrel & Cock of which he
prises highly--note the mountain we Saw from near the forks proves to
be Mount Hood
[Clark, November 4, 1805]
Novr. 4th Monday 1805 A Cloudy Cool morning, wind West, we Set out at
1/2 past 8 oClock having dispatched 4 men in the Small canoe to hunt
(Those people men & women heads are flat)
We landed at a village 200 men of Flatheads of 25 houses 50 canoes
built of Straw, we were treated verry kindly by them, they gave us
round root near the Size of a hens egg roasted which they call Wap-to
to eate
I walked out on the Stard. Side found the country fine, an open Prarie
for 1 mile back of which the wood land comence riseing back, the timber
on the edge of the Prarie is white oke, back is Spruce pine & other
Species of Pine mixed Some under groth of a wild crab & a Specis of
wood I'm not acquainted, a Specis of maple & Cotton wood grow near this
river, Some low bushes
Indians continue to be with us, Several Canoes Continue with us, The
Indians at the last village have more Cloth and uriopian trinkets than
above I Saw Some Guns, a Sword, maney Powder flasks, Salers jackets,
overalls, hats & Shirts, Copper and Brass trinkets with few Beeds only.
dureing the time I was at Dinner the Indians Stold my tomahawk which I
made use of to Smoke I Serched but Could not find it, a Pond on the
Stard Side, off from the river. Raspberries and ____ are also in the
bottoms--met a large and Small canoe with 12 men from below the men
were dressed with a variety of articles of European manufactory the
large Canoe had emeges on the bow & Stern handsomly Carved in wood &
painted with the figur of a Bear in front & man in a Stern. Saw white
geese with black wings--Saw a Small Crab-apple with all the taste &
flavor of the Common--Those Indians were all armed with Pistols or bows
and arrows ready Sprung war axes &c.
Mount Hellen bears N. 25° E about 80 miles, this is the mountain we Saw
near the foks of this river. it is emensely high and covered with Snow,
riseing in a kind of Cone perhaps the highest pinecal from the common
leavel in america passed a village of 4 hs. on the Stard Side at 2
mils, one at 3 mls.
One deer 2 Ducks & Brant killed
[Clark, November 4, 1805]
November 4th Monday 1805
A cloudy cool morning wind from the West we Set out at 1/2 past 8
oClock, one man Shannon Set out early to walk on the Island to kill
Something, he joined us at the lower point with a Buck. This Island is
6 miles long and near 3 miles wide thinly timbered (Tide rose last
night 18 inches perpndicular at Camp) near the lower point of this
dimond Island is The head of a large Island Seperated from a Small one
by a narrow chanel, and both Situated nearest the Lard Side, those
Islands as also the bottoms are thickly Covered with Pine &c. river
wide, Country low on both Sides; on the Main Lard Shore a Short
distance below the last Island we landed at a village of 25 Houses; 24
of those houses were thached with Straw, and covered with bark, the
other House is built of boards in the form of those above, except that
it is above ground and about 50 feet in length and covered with broad
Split boards This village contains about 200 men of the Skil-loot
nation I counted 52 canoes on the bank in front of this village maney
of them verry large and raised in bow. we recognised the man who over
took us last night, he invited us to a lodge in which he had Some part
and gave us a roundish roots about the Size of a Small Irish potato
which they roasted in the embers until they became Soft, This root they
call Wap-pa-to which the Bulb of the Chinese cultivate in great
quantities called the Sa-git ti folia or common arrow head-. it has an
agreeable taste and answers verry well in place of bread. we purchased
about 4 bushels of this root and divided it to our party, at 7 miles
below this village passed the upper point of a large Island nearest the
Lard Side, a Small Prarie in which there is a pond opposit on the
Stard. here I landed and walked on Shore, about 3 miles a fine open
Prarie for about 1 mile, back of which the countrey rises gradually and
wood land comencies Such as white oake, pine of different kinds, wild
crabs with the taste and flavour of the common crab and Several Species
of undergroth of which I am not acquainted, a few Cottonwood trees &
the Ash of this countrey grow Scattered on the river bank, Saw Some Elk
and Deer Sign and Joined Capt. Lewis at a place he had landed with the
party for Diner. Soon after Several Canoes of Indians from the village
above came down dressed for the purpose as I Supposed of Paying us a
friendly visit, they had Scarlet & blue blankets Salors jackets,
overalls, Shirts and Hats independant of their Usial dress; the most of
them had either war axes Spears or Bows Sprung with quivers of arrows,
Muskets or pistols, and tin flasks to hold their powder; Those fellows
we found assumeing and disagreeable, however we Smoked with them and
treated them with every attention & friendship.
dureing the time we were at dinner those fellows Stold my pipe Tomahawk
which They were Smoking with, I imediately Serched every man and the
canoes, but Could find nothing of my Tomahawk, while Serching for the
Tomahawk one of those Scoundals Stole a Cappoe of one of our
interpreters, which was found Stufed under the root of a treer, near
the place they Sat, we became much displeased with those fellows, which
they discovered and moved off on their return home to their village,
except 2 canoes which had passed on down--we proceeded on met a large &
a Small Canoe from below, with 12 men the large Canoe was ornimented
with Images carved in wood the figures of a Bear in front & a man in
Stern, Painted & fixed verry netely on the of the Canoe, rising to near
the hight of a man two Indians verry finely Dressed & with hats on was
in this canoe passed the lower point of the Island which is nine miles
in length haveing passed 2 Islands on the Stard Side of this large
Island, three Small Islands at its lower point. the Indians make Signs
that a village is Situated back of those Islands on the Lard. Side and
I believe that a Chanel is Still on the Lrd, Side as a Canoe passed in
between the Small Islands, and made Signs that way, probably to
traffick with Some of the nativs liveing on another Chanel, at 3 miles
lower, and 12 Leagues below quick Sand river passed a village of four
large houses on The Lard. Side, near which we had a full view of Mt.
Helien which is perhaps the highest pinical in America from their base
it bears N. 25° E about 90 miles--This is the mountain I Saw from the
Muscle Shell rapid on the 19th of October last Covered with Snow, it
rises Something in the form of a Sugar lofe--about a mile lower passed
a Single house on the Lard. Side, and one on the Stard. Side, passed a
village on each Side and Camped near a house on the Stard. Side we
proceeded on untill one hour after dark with a view to get clear of the
nativs who was constantly about us, and troublesom, finding that we
could not get Shut of those people for one night, we landed and
Encamped on the Stard. Side Soon after 2 canoes Came to us loaded with
Indians, we purchased a fiew roots of them.
This evening we Saw vines much resembling the raspberry which is verry
thick in the bottoms. A range of high hills at about 5 miles on the
Lard Side which runs S. E. & N W. Covered with tall timber the bottoms
below in this range of hills and the river is rich and leavel, Saw
White geese with a part of their wings black. The river here is 11/2
miles wide, and current jentle. opposit to our camp on a Small Sandy
Island the brant & geese make Such a noise that it will be impossible
for me to Sleap. we made 29 miles to day Killed a Deer and Several
brant and ducks. I Saw a Brarow tamed at the 1st village to day The
Indians which we have passd to day of the Scil-loot nation in their
language from those near & about the long narrows of the
Che-luc-it-te-quar or E-chee-lute, their dress differ but little,
except they have more of the articles precured from the white traders,
they all have flatened heads both men and women, live principally on
fish and Wap pa toe roots, they also kill Some fiew Elk and Deer,
dureing the Short time I remained in their village they brought in
three Deer which they had killed with their Bow & arrows. They are
thievishly inclined as we have experienced.
[Clark, November 5, 1805]
Novr. 5th Tuesday 1805
a Cloudy morning Som rain the after part of last night & this morning.
I could not Sleep for the noise kept by the Swans, Geese, white & black
brant, Ducks &c. on a opposit base, & Sand hill Crane, they were
emensely numerous and their noise horrid. We Set out at Sun rise & our
hunters killed 10 Brant 4 of which were white with black wings 2 Ducks,
and a Swan which were divided, we Came too and Encamped on the Lard.
Side under a high ridgey land, the high land come to the river on each
Side. the river about 11/2 mile wide. those high lands rise gradually
from the river & bottoms--we are all wet Cold and disagreeable, rain
Continues & encreases. I killed a Pheasent which is very fat--my feet
and legs cold. I saw 17 Snakes to day on a Island, but little
appearance of Frost at this place.
[Clark, November 5, 1805]
November 5th Tuesday 1805
Rained all the after part of last night, rain continues this morning, I
slept but verry little last night for the noise Kept dureing the whole
of the night by the Swans, Geese, white & Grey Brant Ducks &c. on a
Small Sand Island close under the Lard. Side; they were emensely
noumerous, and their noise horid--we Set out early here the river is
not more than 3/4 of a mile in width, passed a Small Prarie on the
Stard. Side passed 2 houses about 1/2 a mile from each other on the
Lard. Side a Canoe came from the upper house, with 3 men in it mearly
to view us, passed an Isld. Covered with tall trees & green briers
Seperated from the Stard. Shore by a narrow Chanel at 9 miles I
observed on the Chanel which passes on the Stard Side of this Island a
Short distance above its lower point is Situated a large village, the
front of which occupies nearly 1/4 of a mile fronting the Chanel, and
closely Connected, I counted 14 houses in front here the river widens
to about 11/2 miles. Seven canoes of Indians came out from this large
village to view and trade with us, they appeared orderly and well
disposed, they accompanied us a fiew miles and returned back. about
111/2 miles below this village on the Lard Side behind a rockey Sharp
point, we passed a Chanel 1/4 of a mile wide, which I take to be the
one the Indian Canoe entered yesterday from the lower point of Immage
Canoe Island a Some low clifts of rocks below this Chanel, a large
Island Close under the Stard Side opposit, and 2 Small Islands, below,
here we met 2 canoes from below,--below those Islands a range of high
hills form the Stard. Bank of the river, the Shore bold and rockey,
Covered with a thick groth of Pine an extensive low Island, Seperated
from the Lard side by a narrow Chanel, on this Island we Stoped to Dine
I walked out found it open & covered with grass interspersed with Small
ponds, in which was great numbr. of foul, the remains of an old village
on the lower part of this Island, I saw Several deer our hunters killed
on this Island a Swan, 4 white 6 Grey brant & 2 Ducks all of them were
divided, below the lower point of this Island a range of high hills)
which runs S. E. forms the Lard. bank of the river the Shores bold and
rockey & hills Covered with pine, The high hills leave the river on the
Stard. Side a high bottom between the hill & river. We met 4 Canoes of
Indians from below, in which there is 26 Indians, one of those Canoes
is large, and ornimented with Images on the bow & Stern. That in the
Bow the likeness of a Bear, and in Stern the picture of a man--we
landed on the Lard. Side & camped a little below the mouth of a creek
on the Stard. Side a little below the mouth of which is an Old Village
which is now abandaned-; here the river is about one and a half miles
wide, and deep, The high Hills which run in a N W. & S E. derection
form both banks of the river the Shore boald and rockey, the hills rise
gradually & are Covered with a thick groth of pine &c. The valley which
is from above the mouth of Quick Sand River to this place may be
computed at 60 miles wide on a Derect line, & extends a great Distanc
to the right & left rich thickly Covered with tall timber, with a fiew
Small Praries bordering on the river and on the Islands; Some fiew
Standing Ponds & Several Small Streams of running water on either Side
of the river; This is certainly a fertill and a handsom valley, at this
time Crouded with Indians. The day proved Cloudy with rain the greater
part of it, we are all wet cold and disagreeable--I Saw but little
appearance of frost in this valley which we call Wap-pa-loo Columbia
from that root or plants growing Spontaneously in this valley only In
my walk of to Day I saw 17 Striped Snakes I killed a grouse which was
verry fat, and larger than Common. This is the first night which we
have been entirely clear of Indians Since our arrival on the waters of
the Columbia River. We made 32 miles to day by estimation-
[Clark, November 6, 1805]
November 6th Wednesday a cold wet morning. rain Contd. untill ____
oClock we Set out early & proceeded on the Corse of last night &c.
[Clark, November 6, 1805]
November 6th Wednesday 1805
A cool wet raney morning we Set out early at 4 miles pass 2 Lodges of
Indians in a Small bottom on the Lard Side I believe those Indians to
be travelers. opposit is the head of a long narrow Island close under
the Starboard Side, back of this Island two Creeks fall in about 6
miles apart, and appear to head in the high hilley countrey to the N.
E. opposit this long Island is 2 others one Small and about the middle
of the river. the other larger and nearly opposit its lower point, and
opposit a high clift of Black rocks on the Lard. Side at 14 miles: here
the Indians of the 2 Lodges we passed to day came in their canoes with
Sundery articles to Sell, we purchased of them Wap-pa-too roots, Salmon
trout, and I purchased 2 beaver Skins for which I gave 5 Small fish
hooks. here the hills leave the river on the Lard. Side, a butifull
open and extensive bottom in which there is an old Village, one also on
the Stard. Side a little above both of which are abandened by all their
inhabitents except Two Small dogs nearly Starved, and an unreasonable
portion of flees--The Hills and mountains are covered with Sever kinds
of Pine-Arber Vitea or white Cedar, red Loril, alder and Several
Species of under groth, the bottoms have common rushes, nettles, &
grass the Slashey parts have Bull rushes & flags--Some willow on the
waters edge, passed an Island 3 miles long and one mile wide, close
under the Stard. Side below the long narrow Island below which the
Stard Hills are verry from the river bank and Continues high and rugid
on that Side all day, we over took two Canoes of Indians going down to
trade one of the Indians Spoke a fiew words of english and Said that
the principal man who traded with them was Mr. Haley, and that he had a
woman in his Canoe who Mr. Haley was fond of &c. he Showed us a Bow of
Iron and Several other things which he Said Mr. Haley gave him. we came
too to Dine on the long narrow Island found the woods So thick with
under groth that the hunters could not get any distance into the Isld.
the red wood, and Green bryors interwoven, and mixed with pine, alder,
a Specis of Beech, ash &c. we killed nothing to day The Indians leave
us in the evening, river about one mile wide hills high and Steep on
the Std. no place for Several Miles suffcently large and leavil for our
camp we at length Landed at a place which by moveing the Stones we made
a place Sufficently large for the party to lie leavil on the Smaller
Stones Clear of the Tide Cloudy with rain all day we are all wet and
disagreeable, had large fires made on the Stone and dried our bedding
and Kill the flees, which collected in our blankets at every old
village we encamped near I had like to have forgotten a verry
remarkable Knob riseing from the edge of the water to about 80 feet
high, and about 200 paces around at its Base and Situated on the long
narrow Island above and nearly opposit to the 2 Lodges we passed to
day, it is Some distance from the high land & in a low part of the
Island
[Clark, November 7, 1805]
November 7th Thursday 1805
a Cloudy fogey morning, a little rain. Set out at 8 oClock proceeded on
The womens peticoat is about 15 Inches long made of arber vita or the
white Cedar bark wove to a String and hanging down in tossles and tied
So as to cover from their hips as low as the peticoat will reach and
only Covers them when Standing, as in any other position the Tosels
Seperate. Those people Sold us otter Skins for fish hooks of which they
wer fond
We delayed 11/2 hour & Set out the tide being up in & the river So Cut
with Islands we got an Indian to pilot us into the main chanel one of
our Canoes Seperated from us this morning in the fog--great numbers of
water fowls of every descriptn. common to this river
[Clark, November 7, 1805]
November 7th Thursday 1805
A cloudy foggey morning Some rain. we Set out early proceeded under the
Stard Shore under a high rugid hills with Steep assent the Shore boalt
and rockey, the fog So thick we could not See across the river, two
Canos of Indians met and returned with us to their village which is
Situated on the Stard Side behind a cluster of Marshey Islands, on a
narrow chanl. of the river through which we passed to the Village of 4
Houses, they gave us to eate Some fish, and Sold us, fish, Wap pa to
roots three dogs and 2 otter Skins for which we gave fish hooks
principally of which they were verry fond.
Those people call themselves War-ci-a-cum and Speake a language
different from the nativs above with whome they trade for the Wapato
roots of which they make great use of as food. their houses differently
built, raised entirely above ground eaves about 5 feet from the ground
Supported and covered in the same way of those above, dotes about the
Same size but in the Side of the house in one Corner, one fire place
and that near the opposit end; around which they have their beads
raised about 4 feet from the fore which is of earth, under their beads
they Store away baskets of dried fish Berries & wappato, over the fire
they hang the flesh as they take them and which they do not make
immediate use. Their Canoes are of the Same form of those above. The
Dress of the men differ verry little from those above, The womin
altogether different, their robes are Smaller only Covering their
Sholders & falling down to near the hip--and Sometimes when it is Cold
a piec of fur curiously plated and connected So as to meet around the
body from the arms to the hips The garment which occupies the waist and
thence as low as the knee before and mid leg behind, cannot properly be
called a petticoat, in the common acception of the word; it is a Tissue
formed of white Cedar bark bruised or broken into Small Straps, which
are interwoven in their center by means of Several cords of the Same
materials which Serves as well for a girdle as to hold in place the
Straps of bark which forms the tissue, and which Strans, Confined in
the middle, hang with their ends pendulous from the waiste, the whole
being of Suffcent thickness when the female Stands erect to conceal
those parts useally covered from familiar view, but when she stoops or
places herself in any other attitudes this battery of Venus is not
altogether impervious to the penetrating eye of the amorite. This
tissue is Sometims formed of little Strings of the Silk grass twisted
and knoted at their ends &c. Those Indians are low and ill Shaped all
flat heads
after delaying at this village one hour and a half we Set out piloted
by an Indian dressed in a Salors dress, to the main Chanel of the
river, the tide being in we Should have found much dificuelty in
passing into the main Chanel from behind those islands, without a
pilot, a large marshey Island near the middle of the river near which
Several Canoes Came allong Side with Skins, roots fish &c. to Sell, and
had a temporey residence on this Island, here we See great numbers of
water fowls about those marshey Islands; here the high mountanious
Countrey approaches the river on the Lard Side, a high mountn. to the S
W. about 20 miles, the high mountans. Countrey Continue on the Stard
Side, about 14 miles below the last village and 18 miles of this day we
landed at a village of the Same nation. This village is at the foot of
the high hills on the Stard Side back OF 2 Small Islands it contains 7
indifferent houses built in the Same form of those above, here we
purchased a Dog Some fish, wappato roots and I purchased 2 beaver Skins
for the purpose of makeing me a roab, as the robe I have is rotten and
good for nothing. opposit to this Village the high mountaneous Countrey
leave the river on the Lard Side below which the river widens into a
kind of Bay & is Crouded with low Islands Subject to be Covered by the
tides--we proceeded on about 12 miles below the Village under a high
mountaneous Countrey on the Stard. Side. Shore boald and rockey and
Encamped under a high hill on the Stard. Side opposit to a rock
Situated half a mile from the Shore, about 50 feet high and 20 feet
Diamieter, we with dificuelty found a place Clear of the tide and
Sufficiently large to lie on and the only place we could get was on
round Stones on which we lay our mats rain Continud. moderately all day
& Two Indians accompanied us from the last village, they we detected in
Stealing a knife and returned, our Small Canoe which got Seperated in
the fog this morning joined us this evening from a large Island
Situated nearest the Lard Side below the high hills on that Side, the
river being too wide to See either the form Shape or Size of the
Islands on the Lard Side.
Great joy in camp we are in View of the Ocian, this great Pacific
Octean which we been So long anxious to See. and the roreing or noise
made by the waves brakeing on the rockey Shores (as I Suppose) may be
heard distictly
we made 34 miles to day as Computed
[Clark, November 8, 1805]
Novr. 8th Friday 1805 a cloudy morning Some rain and wind we Changed
our Clothes and Set out at 9 oClock proceeded on Close under the Stard.
Side
R. Fields Killed a goose & 2 Canvis back Ducks in this bay after Dinner
we took the advantage of the returning tide & proceeded on to the 2d
point, at which place we found the Swells too high to proceed we landed
and drew our canoes up So as to let the tide leave them. The three
Indians after Selling us 4 fish for which we gave Seven Small fishing
hooks, and a piece of red Cloth. Some fine rain at intervales all this
day. the Swells Continued high all the evening & we are Compelled to
form an Encampment on a Point Scercely room Sufficent for us all to lie
Clear of the tide water. hills high & with a Steep assent, river wide &
at this place too Salt to be used for Drink. we are all wet and
disagreeable, as we have been Continually for Severl. days past, we are
at a loss & cannot find out if any Settlement is near the mouth of this
river.
The Swells were So high and the Canoes roled in Such a manner as to
cause Several to be verry Sick. Reuben fields, Wiser McNeal & the Squar
wer of the number
[Clark, November 8, 1805]
November 8th Friday 1805
A Cloudy morning Some rain, we did not Set out untill 9 oClock, haveing
Changed our Clothing--proceeded on Close under the Stard. Side, the
hills high with Steep assent, Shore boald and rockey Several low
Islands in a Deep bend or Bay to the Lard Side, river about 5 or 7
miles wide. three Indians in a Canoe overtook us, with Salmon to Sell,
passed 2 old villages on the Stard. Side and at 3 miles entered a nitch
of about 6 miles wide and 5 miles deep with Several Creeks makeing into
the Stard Hills, this nitch we found verry Shallow water and Call it
the Shallow nitch we came too at the remains of an old village at the
bottom of this nitch and dined, here we Saw great numbers of fowl, Sent
out 2 men and they killed a Goose and two Canves back Ducks here we
found great numbers of Hees which we treated with the greatest caution
and distance; after Diner the Indians left us and we took the advantage
of a returning tide and proceeded on to the Second point on the Std.
here we found the Swells or waves So high that we thought it imprudent
to proceed; we landed unloaded and drew up our Canoes. Some rain all
day at intervales; we are all wet and disagreeable, as we have been for
Several days past, and our present Situation a verry disagreeable one
in as much; as we have not leavel land Sufficient for an encampment and
for our baggage to lie Cleare of the tide, the High hills jutting in So
Close and Steep that we cannot retreat back, and the water of the river
too Salt to be used, added to this the waves are increasing to Such a
hight that we cannot move from this place, in this Situation we are
compelled to form our Camp between the hite of the Ebb and flood tides,
and rase our baggage on logs--We are not certain as yet if the whites
people who trade with those people or from whome they precure ther
goods are Stationary at the mouth, or visit this quarter at Stated
times for the purpose of trafick &c. I believe the latter to be the
most probable conjucture--The Seas roled and tossed the Canoes in Such
a manner this evening that Several of our party were Sea Sick.
[Clark, November 9, 1805]
Novr. 9th Saturday 1805
The tide of last night obliged us to unload all the Canoes one of which
Sunk before She was unloaded by the high waves or Swells which
accompanied the returning tide, The others we unloaded, and 3 others
was filled with water Soon after by the Swells or high Sees which broke
against the Shore imediately where we lay, rained hard all the fore
part of the day, the tide which rose untill 2 oClock P M to day brought
with it Such emence Swells or waves, added to a hard wind from the
South which Loosened the Drift trees which is verry thick on the
Shores, and tossed them about in Such a manner, as to endanger our
Canoes very much, with every exertion and the Strictest attention by
the party was Scercely Suffient to defend our Canoes from being Crushed
to pieces between those emensely large trees maney of them 200 feet
long and 4 feet through. The tide of this day rose about ____ feet & 15
Inches higher than yesterday this is owing to the wind which Sets in
from the ocian, we are Compelled to move our Camp from the water, as
also the loading every man as wet all the last night and this day as
the rain Could make them which Contind. all day. at 4 oClock the wind
Shifted about to the S. W imediately from the ocian and blew a Storm
for about 2 hours, raised the tide verry high all wet & cold Labiech
killed 4 Ducks very fat & R. Fields Saw Elk Sign.
not withstanding the disagreeable time of the party for Several days
past they are all Chearfull and full of anxiety to See further into the
ocian. the water is too Salt to Drink, we use rain water. The Salt
water has acted on some of the party already as a Pergitive. rain
continus.
[Clark, November 9, 1805]
November 9th Saturday 1805
The tide of last night did not rise Sufficintly high to come into our
camp, but the Canoes which was exposed to the mercy of the waves &c.
which accompanied the returning tide, they all filled, and with great
attention we Saved them untill the tide left them dry--wind Hard from
the South and rained hard all the fore part of the day, at 2 oClock P M
the flood tide came in accompanied with emence waves and heavy winds,
floated the trees and Drift which was on the point on which we Camped
and tosed them about in Such a manner as to endanger the Canoes verry
much, with every exertion and the Strictest attention by every
individual of the party was Scercely Sufficient to Save our Canoes from
being crushed by those monsterous trees maney of them nearly 200 feet
long and from 4 to 7 feet through. our camp entirely under water
dureing the hight of the tide, every man as wet as water could make
them all the last night and to day all day as the rain Continued all
day, at 4 oClock P M the wind Shifted about to the S. W. and blew with
great violence imediately from the Ocian for about two hours,
notwithstanding the disagreeable Situation of our party all wet and
Cold (and one which they have experienced for Several days past) they
are chearfull and anxious to See further into the Ocian, The water of
the river being too Salt to use we are obliged to make use of rain
water--Some of the party not accustomed to Salt water has made too free
a use of it on them it acts as a pergitive.
at this dismal point we must Spend another night as the wind & waves
are too high to proceed.
[Clark, November 10, 1805]
November 10th Sunday 1805 rained verry hard the greater part of the
last night & Continus this morning, the wind has layed and the Swells
are fallen. we loaded our Canoes and proceeded on, passed a Deep Bay on
the Stard. Side I Call ____ The wind rose from the N W. and the Swells
became So high, we were Compelled to return about 2 miles to a place
where we Could unld. our Canoes, which was in a Small Bay on Driftwood,
on which we had also to make our fires to dry our Selves as well as we
could the Shore being either a Clift of Purpendicular rocks or Steep
assents to the hight of 4 or 500 feet, we continued on this drift wood
untill about 3 oClock when the evening appearing favourable we loaded &
Set out in hopes to turn the Point below and get into a better harber,
but finding the waves & Swells continue to rage with great fury below,
we got a Safe place for our Stores & a much beter one for the Canoes to
lie and formed a Campment on Drift logs in the Same little Bay under a
high hill at the enterence of a Small drean which we found verry convt.
on account of its water, as that of the river is Brackish--The logs on
which we lie is all on flote every high tide--The rain Continud all
day--we are all wet, also our beding and many other articles. we are
all employed untill late drying our bedding. nothing to eate but
Pounded fish
[Clark, November 10, 1805]
November 10th Sunday 1805
Rained verry hard the greater part of last night and continues this
morning. the wind has luled and the waves are not high; we loaded our
canoes and proceeded on passed Several Small and deep nitch on the
Stard. Side, we proceeded on about 10 miles Saw great numbers of Sea
Guls, the wind rose from the N. W. and the waves became So high that we
were compelled to return about 2 miles to a place we Could unload our
Canoes, which we did in a Small nitch at the mouth of a Small run on a
pile of drift logs where we Continued untill low water, when the river
appeared calm we loaded and Set out; but was obliged to return finding
the waves too high for our Canoes to ride, we again unloaded the
Canoes, and Stoed the loading on a rock above the tide water, and
formed a camp on the Drift Logs which appeared to be the only Situation
we could find to lie, the hills being either a perpendicular Clift, or
Steep assent, riseing to about 500 feet--our Canoes we Secured as well
as we could--we are all wet the rain haveing continued all day, our
beding and maney other articles, employ our Selves drying our blankets-
nothing to eate but dried fish pounded which we brought from the falls.
we made 10 miles today
[Clark, November 11, 1805]
November 11th Monday 1805
a hard rain all the last night we again get wet the rain continue at
intervals all day. Wind verry high from S W and blew a Storm all day
Sent out Jo. Fields & Collins to hunt. at 12 oClock at a time the wind
was verry high and waves tremendeous five Indians Came down in a Canoe
loaded with fish of Salmon Spes. Called Red Charr, we purchased of
those Indians 13 of these fish, for which we gave, fishing hooks & some
trifling things, we had Seen those Indians at a village behind Some
marshey Islands a few days ago. they are on their way to trade those
fish with white people which they make Signs live below round a point,
those people are badly Clad, one is dressd. in an old Salors Jacket &
Trouses, the others Elk Skin robes. we are truly unfortunate to be
Compelled to lie 4 days nearly in the Same place at a time that our day
are precious to us, The Wind Shifted to ____ the Indians left us and
Crossed the river which is about 5 miles wide through the highest Sees
I ever Saw a Small vestle ride, their Canoe is Small, maney times they
were out of Sight before the were 2 miles off Certain it is they are
the best canoe navigators I ever Saw The tide was 3 hours later to day
than yesterday and rose much higher, the trees we camped on was all on
flote for about 2 hours from 3 untill 5 oClock P M, the great
quantities of rain which has fallen losenes the Stones on the Side of
the hill & the Small ones fall on us, our Situation is truly a
disagreeable one our Canoes in one place at the mercy of the waves our
baggage in another and our Selves & party Scattered on drift trees of
emense Sizes, & are on what dry land they can find in the Crevices of
the rocks & hill Sides
[Clark, November 11, 1805]
November 11th Monday 1805
A hard rain all the last night, dureing the last tide the logs on which
we lay was all on float Sent out Jo Fields to hunt, he Soon returned
and informed us that the hills was So high & Steep, & thick with
undergroth and fallen Timber that he could not get out any distance;
about 12 oClock 5 Indians came down in a canoe, the wind verry high
from the S. W. with most tremendious waves brakeing with great violence
against the Shores, rain falling in torrents, we are all wet as usial
and our Situation is truly a disagreeable one; the great quantites of
rain which has loosened the Stones on the hill Sides, and the Small
Stones fall down upon us, our canoes at one place at the mercy of the
waves, our baggage in another and our Selves and party Scattered on
floating logs and Such dry Spots as can be found on the hill Sides, and
Crivices of the rocks. we purchased of the Indians 13 red chary which
we found to be an excellent fish we have Seen those Indians above and
are of a nation who reside above and on the opposit Side who call
themselves Call-har-ma they are badly clad & illy made, Small and Speak
a language much resembling the last nation, one of those men had on a
Salors Jacket and Pantiloons and made Signs that he got those Clothes
from the white people who lived below the point &c. those people left
us and Crossed the river (which is about 5 miles wide at this place)
through the highest waves I ever Saw a Small vestles ride. Those
Indians are Certainly the best Canoe navigaters I ever Saw. rained all
(lay
[Clark, November 12, 1805]
November 12th Tuesday 1805
a tremendious thunder Storm abt. 3 oClock this morning accompanied by
wind from the S W. and Hail, this Storm of hard Clap's thunder Lighting
and hail untill about 6 oClock at intervals it then became light for a
Short time when the heavens became darkined by a black Cloud from the
S, W, & a hard rain Suckceeded which lasted untill 12 oClock with a
hard wind which raised the Seas tremendiously high braking with great
force and fury against the rocks & trees on which we lie, as our
Situation became Seriously dangerous, we took the advantage of a low
tide & moved our Camp around a point a Short distance to a Small wet
bottom at the mouth of a Small Creek, which we had not observed when we
first Came to this Cove, from its being very thick and obscured by
drift trees & thick bushes, Send out men to hunt they found the woods
So thick with Pine & timber and under Broth that they could not get
through, Saw Some Elk tracks, I walked up this creek & killed 2 Salmon
trout, the men killd. 13 of the Salmon Species, The Pine of fur Specs,
or Spruc Pine grow here to an emense Size & hight maney of them 7 & 8
feet through and upwards of 200 feet high. It would be distressing to a
feeling person to See our Situation at this time all wet and cold with
our bedding &c. also wet, in a Cove Scercely large nough to Contain us,
our Baggage in a Small holler about 1/2 a mile from us, and Canoes at
the mercy of the waves & drift wood, we have Scured them as well as it
is possible by Sinking and wateing them down with Stones to prevent the
emence waves dashing them to pices against the rocks--one got loose
last night & was left on a rock by the tide Some distance below without
recving much damage. fortunately for us our Men are helthy. It was
clear at 12 for a Short time. I observed the Mountains on the opposit
Side was covered with Snowour party has been wet for 8 days and is
truly disagreeable, their robes & leather Clothes are rotten from being
Continually wet, and they are not in a Situation to get others, and we
are not in a Situation to restore them--I observe great numbers of Sea
guls, flying in every derection--Three men Gibson Bratten & Willard
attempted to decend in a Canoe built in the Indian fashion and abt. the
Size of the one the Indians visited us in yesterday, they Could not
proceed, as the waves tossed them about at will, they returned after
proceeding about 1 mile--we got our Selves tolerable Comfortable by
drying our Selves & bedding Cought 3 salmon this evining in a Small
branch above about 1 mile
[Clark, November 12, 1805]
November 12th Tuesday 1805
A Tremendious wind from the S. W. about 3 oClock this morning with
Lightineng and hard claps of Thunder, and Hail which Continued untill 6
oClock a.m. when it became light for a Short time, then the heavens
became Sudenly darkened by a black Cloud from the S. W. and rained with
great violence untill 12 oClock, the waves tremendious brakeing with
great fury against the rocks and trees on which we were encamped. our
Situation is dangerous. we took the advantage of a low tide and moved
our camp around a point to a Small wet bottom at the mouth of a Brook,
which we had not observed when we Came to this cove; from it being
verry thick and obscured by drift trees and thick bushes It would be
distressing to See our Situation, all wet and Colde our bedding also
wet, (and the robes of the party which Compose half the bedding is
rotten and we are not in a Situation to supply their places) in a wet
bottom Scercely large enough to contain us, our baggage half a mile
from us and Canoes at the mercy of the waves, altho Secured as well as
possible, Sunk with emence parcels of Stone to wate them down to
prevent their dashing to pieces against the rocks; one got loose last
night and was left on a rock a Short distance below, without rciving
more daminage than a Split in her bottom--Fortunately for us our men
are healthy. 3 men Gibson Bratten & Willard attempted to go aroud the
point below in our Indian Canoe, much Such a canoe as the Indians
visited us in yesterday, they proceeded to the point from which they
were oblige to return, the waves tossing them about at will I walked up
the branch and giged 3 Salmon trout. the party killed 13 Salmon to day
in a branch about 2 miles above. rain Continued
[Clark, November 13, 1805]
November 13th Wednesday 1805 Some intervales of fair weather last
night, rain and wind Continue this morning, as we are in a Cove & the
Mountains verry high & Pine Spruce verry high & thick Cannot deturmine
the procise course of the winds. I walked to the top of the first part
of the mountain with much fatigue as the distance was about 3 miles
thro intolerable thickets of Small Pine, arrow wood a groth much
resembling arrow wood with briers, growing to 10 & 15 feet high
interlocking with each other & Furn, aded to this difficulty the hill
was So Steep that I was obliged to drawing my Self up in many places by
the bowers, the Countrey Continues thick and hilley as far back a I
could See. Some Elk Sign, rained all day moderately. I am wet &c. &c.
The Hail which fell 2 night past is yet to be Seen on the mountain on
which I was to day. I Saw a Small red Berry which grows on a Stem of
about 6 or 8 Inches from the Ground, in bunches and in great quantity
on the Mountains, the taste insiped. I saw a number of verry large
Spruce Pine one of which I measured 14 feet around and verry tall. My
principal objects in assdg. this mountain was to view the river below,
the weather being So Cloudey & thick that I could not See any distance
down, discovered the wind high from the N. W. and waves high at a Short
distance below our Encampment, (Squar displeased with me for not sin &c
&c. Wap-lo a excellent root which is rosted and tastes like a potato I
Cut my hand despatched 3 men in a Indian canoe (which is calculated to
ride high Swells) down to examine if they can find the Bay at the mouth
& good barbers below for us to proceed in Safty. The fides at every Hud
come in with great Swells & Breake against the rocks & Drift trees with
great fury--the rain Continue all the evening nothing to eate but
Pounded fish which we have as a reserve See Store, and what Pore fish
we can kill up the branch on which we are encamped our canoe and the
three men did not return this evening--if we were to have cold weather
to accompany the rain which we have had for this 6 or 8 days passed we
must eneviatilbly Suffer verry much as Clothes are Scerce with us.
[Clark, November 13, 1805]
November 13th Wednesday 1805
Some intervales of fair weather last night, rain continue this morning.
I walked up the Brook & assended the first Spur of the mountain with
much fatigue, the distance about 3 miles, through an intolerable
thickets of Small pine, a groth much resembling arrow wood on the Stem
of which there is thorns; this groth about 12 or 15 feet high inter
lockd into each other and Scattered over the high fern & fallen timber,
added to this the hills were So Steep that I was compelled to draw my
Self up by the assistance of those bushes--The Timber on those hills
are of the pine Species large and tall maney of them more than 200 feet
high & from 8 to 10 feet through at the Stump those hills & as far back
as I could See, I Saw Some Elk Sign, on the Spur of the mountain tho
not fresh. I killed a Salmon trout on my return. The Hail which fell 2
nights past is yet to be Seen on the mountains; I Saw in my ramble to
day a red berry resembling Solomons Seal berry which the nativs call
Sol-me and use it to eate. my principal object in assending this
mountain was to view the countrey below, the rain continuing and
weather proved So Cloudy that I could not See any distance on my return
we dispatched 3 men Colter, Willard and Shannon in the Indian canoe to
get around the point if possible and examine the river, and the Bay
below for a god barber for our Canoes to lie in Safty &c. The tide at
every floot tide Came with great swells brakeing against the rocks &
Drift trees with great fury The rain Continue all day. nothing to eate
but pounded fish which we Keep as a reserve and use in Situations of
this kind.
[Clark, November 14, 1805]
Novr. 14th Thursday 1805
Rained last night without intermission and this morning the wind blew
hard from the ____ We Could not move, one Canoe was broken last night
against the rocks, by the waves dashing her against them in high tide
about 10 oClock 5 Indians Come up in a Canoe thro emence waves &
Swells, they landed and informed us they Saw the 3 men we Sent down
yesterday, at Some distance below Soon after those people Came Colter
one of the 3 men returned and informed us that he had proceeded with
his Canoe as far as they Could, for the waves and Could find no white
people, or Bay, he Saw a good Canoe barber & 2 Camps of Indians at no
great distance below and that those with us had taken his gig & knife
&c. which he forcably took from them & they left us, after our treating
them well. The rain Continue all day all wet as usial, killed only 2
fish to day for the whole Party, at 3 oClock Capt. Lewis Drewyer Jo. &
R. Fields & Frasure Set out down on the Shore to examine if any white
men were below within our reach, they took a empty Canoe & 5 men to Set
them around the Point on a Gravelley Beech which Colter informed was at
no great distance below. The Canoe returned at dusk half full of water,
from the waves which dashed over in passing the point Capt Lewis is
object is also to find a Small Bay as laid down by Vancouver just out
of the mouth of the Columbia River. rained as usial all the evening,
all wet and disagreeable Situated
[Clark, November 14, 1805]
November 14th Thursday 1805
rained all the last night without intermition, and this morning. wind
blows verry hard but our Situation is Such that we Cannot tell from
what point it comes--one of our Canoes is much broken by the waves
dashing it against the rocks--5 Indians Came up in a Canoe, thro the
waves, which is verry high and role with great fury--They made Signs to
us that they Saw the 3 men we Sent down yesterday. only 3 of those
Indians landed, the other 2 which was women played off in the waves,
which induced me to Suspect that they had taken Something from our men
below, at this time one of the men Colter returnd by land and informed
us that those Indians had taken his Gigg & basket, I called to the
Squars to land and give back the gigg, which they would not doe untill
a man run with a gun, as if he intended to Shute them when they landed,
and Colter got his gig & basket I then ordered those fellows off, and
they verry readily Cleared out they are of the War-ci-a-cum N. Colter
informed us that "it was but a Short distance from where we lay around
the point to a butifull Sand beech, which continud for a long ways,
that he had found a good harber in the mouth of a creek near 2 Indian
Lodgesthat he had proceeded in the Canoe as far as he could for the
waves, the other two men Willard & Shannon had proceeded on down"
Capt Lewis concluded to proceed on by land & find if possible the white
people the Indians Say is below and examine if a Bay is Situated near
the mouth of this river as laid down by Vancouver in which we expect,
if there is white traders to find them &c. at 3 oClock he Set out with
4 men Drewyer Jos. & Reu. Fields & R. Frasure, in one of our large
canoes and 5 men to Set them around the point on the Sand beech. this
canoe returned nearly filled with water at Dark which it receved by the
waves dashing into it on its return, haveing landed Capt. Lewis & his
party Safe on the Sand beech. The rain Continues all day all wet. The
rain &c. which has continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours
at a time for ten days past has distroyd. the robes and rotted nearly
one half of the fiew Clothes the party has, perticularley the leather
Clothes,--fortunately for us we have no very Cold weather as yet and if
we have Cold weather before we Can kill & Dress Skins for Clothing the
bulk of the party will Suffer verry much.
[Clark, November 15, 1805]
November 15th Friday 1805
Rained all the last night at intervales of Sometimes of 2 hours, This
morning it became Calm & fair, I prepared to Set out at which time the
wind sprung up from the S. E. and blew down the River & in a fiew
minits raised Such Swells and waves brakeing on the Rocks at the point
as to render it unsafe to proceed. I went to the point in an empty
canoe and found it would be dangerous to proceed even in an empty Canoe
The Sun Shown untill 1 oClock p.m.which gave an oppertunity for us to
dry Some of our bedding, & examine our baggage, the greater Part of
which I found wet Some of our Pounded fish Spoiled I had all the arms
put in order & amunition examined.
The rainey weather Continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours
at a time from the 5th in the morng. untill the 16th is eleven days
rain, and the most disagreeable time I have experienced Confined on a
tempiest Coast wet, where I can neither get out to hunt, return to a
better Situation, or proceed on: in this Situation have we been for Six
days past.--fortunately the wind lay about 3 oClock we loaded I in
great haste and Set out passed the blustering Point below which is a
Sand beech, with a Small marshey bottom for 3 miles on the Stard. Side,
on which is a large village of 36 houses deserted by the Inds. & in
full possession of the flees, a Small Creek fall in at this village,
which waters the Country for a few miles back; Shannon & 5 Indians met
me here, Shannon informed me he met Capt. Lewis Some distance below &
he took willard with him & Sent him to meet me, the Inds with him wer
rogues, they had the night before Stold both his and Willards guns from
under their heads, Capt. Lewis & party arrived at the Camp of those
Indians at So Timely a period that the Inds. were allarmed & delivered
up the guns &c. The tide meeting of me and the emence Swells from the
main Ocean (imedeately in front of us) raised to Such a hite that I
concluded to form a Camp on the highest Spot I could find in the
marshey bottom, and proceed no further by water as the Coaste becomes
verry dangerous for Crafts of the Size of our Canoes-and as the Ocian
is imedeately in front and gives us an extensive view of it from Cape
disapointment to Point addams, my Situation is in the upper part of
Haley Bay S. 86° W. ____ miles Course five to Cape Disapt. and S. 35° W.
Course ____ miles from point Addams
The River here at its mouth from Point addams to the enterance of Haley
Bay above is ____ Miles or thereabouts, a large Isd. the lower point of
which is immediately in the mouth above
4 Indians in a Canoe Came down with papto roots to Sell, for which they
asked, blankets or robes, both of which we could not Spare I informed
those Indians all of which understood Some English that if they Stole
our guns &c the men would Certainly Shute them, I treated them with
great distance, & the Sentinal which was over our Baggage allarmed them
verry much, they all Promised not to take any thing, and if any thing
was taken by the Squars & bad boys to return them &c. the waves became
very high Evening fare & pleasent, our men all Comfortable in the Camps
they have made of the boards they found at the Town above
[Clark, November 15, 1805]
November 15th Friday 1805
Rained all the last night, this morning it became Calm and fair, I
preposed Setting out, and ordered the Canoes Repared and loaded; before
we could load our canoes the wind Sudenly Sprung up from the S. E and
blew with Such violence, that we could not proceed in Safty with the
loading. I proceeded to the point in an empty Canoe, and found that the
waves dashed against the rocks with Such violence that I thought it
unsave to Set out with the loaded Canoes--The Sun Shown untill 1 oClock
P M which afford us time to Dry our bedding and examine the baggage
which I found nearly all wet, Some of our pounded fish Spoiled in the
wet; I examined the amunition and Caused all the arms to be put in
order.
About 3 oClock the wind luled, and the river became calm, I had the
canoes loaded in great haste and Set Out, from this dismal nitich where
we have been confined for 6 days passed, without the possibility of
proceeding on, returning to a better Situation, or get out to hunt,
Scerce of Provisions, and torents of rain poreing on us all the time-
proceeded on passed the blustering point below which I found a butifull
Sand beech thro which runs a Small below the mouth of this Stream is a
village of 36 houses uninhabited by anything except flees, here I met
G. Shannon and 5 Indians. Shannon informed me that he met Capn. Lewis
at an Indian Hut about 10 miles below who had Sent him back to meet me,
he also told me the Indians were thievish, as the night before they had
Stolen both his and Willards rifles from under their heads, that they
Set out on their return and had not proceeded far up the beech before
they met Capt Lewis, whose arival was at a timely moment and alarmed
the Indians So that they instantly produced the Guns--I told those
Indians who accompanied Shannon that they Should not Come near us, and
if any one of their nation Stold anything from us, I would have him
Shot, which they understoot verry well. as the tide was Comeing in and
the Seas became verry high imediately from the Ocian (imediately
faceing us) I landed and formed a camp on the highest Spot I could find
between the hight of the tides, and the Slashers in a Small bottom this
I could plainly See would be the extent of our journey by water, as the
waves were too high at any Stage for our Canoes to proceed any further
down. in full view of the Ocian from Point Adams to Cape Disapointment,
I could not See any Island in the mouth of this river as laid down by
Vancouver. The Bay which he laies down in the mouth is imediately below
me. This Bay we call Haleys bay from a favourate Trader with the
Indians which they Say comes into this Bay and trades with them Course
to Point adams is S. 35°W. about 8 miles To Cape Disapointment is S. 86°W.
about 14 miles 4 Indians of the War-ki a cum nation Came down with
pap-pa-too to Sell &c. The Indians who accompanied Shannon from the
village below Speake a Different language from those above, and reside
to the north of this place The Call themselves Chin nooks, I told those
people that they had attempted to Steal 2 guns &c. that if any one of
their nation stole any thing that the Sentinl. whome they Saw near our
baggage with his gun would most certainly Shute them, they all promised
not to tuch a thing, and if any of their womin or bad boys took any
thing to return it imediately and Chastise them for it. I treated those
people with great distance. our men all Comfortable in their Camps
which they have made of boards from the old Village above. we made 3
miles to day.
[Clark, November 16, 1805]
November 16th Satturday 1805
a fine morning cool the latter part of the night, I had all our
articles of every discription examined, and found much wet, had all put
out & dried, The 5 Indians Theves left me. I took a meridean altd. with
Sextt. 50° 36 15 the Shakeing emige below--I Sent out Several hunters
Some to kill fowl others to hunt deer or Elk. The Sea is fomeing and
looks truly dismal to day, from the wind which blew to day from the S.
W. an Indian Canoe passed down to day, loaded with roots &c. three
Indians Came up from below I gave them Smoke but allowed then no kind
of Priveleges what ever, they camped with the 4 which Came down
yesterday, near us, The evening provd. Cloudy & I could make no lunar
observations. one man Sick with a violent Cold, Caught by lying in his
wet Clothes, Several nights Course from Stormey point to Cape
Disapointment is ____ Miles, passd a Small Creek and an old village at
2 miles on the Stard Side a Small Creek at 1 mile we Encamped just
above a Point in a Deep bay to the Stard. Side into which falls 2 Small
rivers Std. Grat many Indians liveing on the Bay & those two rivers,
the the Countrey on the Stard. Side high broken & thickly timbered,
that on the Lard. at Some distance from Point Adms high and mountains
on a Pinecal of a which is Snow at this time--near the Point is Low
bottom land
our hunters and fowlers killd 2 Deer 1 Crane & 2 ducks, my Servt. York
killed 2 Geese & 8 white, black and Speckle Brants, The White Brant,
with part of their wings black is much the largest, the black brant is
verry Small, a little larger than a large Duck--the deer pore but large
[Clark, November 16, 1805]
November 16th Saturday 1805
Cool the latter part of the last night this morning Clear and butifull;
I had all our articles of every discription examined and put out to
Dry. The 5 Chin nooks left us I took a meridenal altitude with the
Sextn. 50° 36' 15 which gave for Lattitude 46° 19' 11 1/10" North. I Sent
out Several hunters and fowlers in pursute Elk, Deer, or fowls of any
kind. wind hard from the S W The Waves high & look dismal indeed
breaking with great fury on our beech an Indian canoe pass down to day
loaded with Wap-pa-toe roots; Several Indians came up to day from
below, I gave them Smoke but allowed them no kind of privilage whatever
in the camp, they with the 4 which came down yesterday encamped a Short
distance from us. The evening proved Cloudy and I could not take any
Luner observations--One man Sick with a violent cold, Caught by laying
in his wet leather Clothes for maney nights past.
The Countrey on the Stard Side above Haley Bay is high broken and
thickley timbered on the Lard Side from Point Adams the Contrey appears
low for 15 or 20 miles back to the mountains, a pinical of which now is
Covered with Snow or hail, as the opposit is too far distant to be
distinguished well, I Shall not attempt to describe any thing on that
Side at present. our hunters and fowlers killed 2 Deer 1 Crain & 2
Ducks, and my man York killed 2 geese and 8 Brant, 3 of them white with
a part of their wings black and much larger than the Grey brant which
is a Sise larger than a Duck.
[Clark, November 17, 1805]
November 17th Sunday 1805
a fair cool windey morning wind from the East. every tide which rises 8
feet 6 Inches at this place, comes in with high Swells which brake on
the Sand Shore with great fury.
I Sent out 6 men to kill deer & fowls this morning at half past 1
oClock Capt. Lewis and his Party returned haveing around passd. Point
Disapointment and Some distance on the main Ocian to the N W. Several
Indians followed him & Soon after a canoe with wapto roots, & Lickorish
boiled, which they gave as presents, in return for which we gave more
than the worth to Satisfy,them a bad practice to receive a present of
Indians, as they are never Satisfied in return. our hunters killed 3
Deer & th fowler 2 Ducks & q brant I Surveyed a little on the corse &
made Some observns. The Chief of the nation below us Came up to See us
the name of the nation is Chin-nook and is noumerous live principally
on fish roots a fiew Elk and fowls. they are well armed with good
Fusees. I directed all the men who wished to See more of the Ocean to
Get ready to Set out with me on tomorrow day light. the following men
expressed a wish to accompany me i'e Seri. Nat Pryor Serjt. J. Ordway,
Jo. Fields R. Fields, Jo. Shannon, Jo Colter, William Bratten, Peter
Wiser, Shabono & my Servant York. all others being well Contented with
what part of the Ocean & its curiosities which Could be Seen from the
vicinity of our Camp.
[Clark, November 17, 1805]
November 17th Sunday 1805
A fair cool morning wind from the East. The tide rises at this place 8
feet 6 inches and comes in with great waves brakeing on the Sand beech
on which we lay with great fury Six hunters out this morning in serch
of Deer & fowl.
At half past 1 oClock Capt Lewis returned haveing travesed Haleys Bay
to Cape Disapointment and the Sea Coast to the North for Some distance.
Several Chinnook Indians followed (,apt L--and a Canoe came up with
roots mats &c. to Sell. those Chinnooks made us a present of a rute
boiled much resembling the common liquorice in taste and Size; in
return for this root we gave more than double the value to Satisfy
their craveing dispostn. It is a bad practice to receive a present from
those Indians as they are never Satisfied for what they reive in return
if ten time the value of the articles they gave. This Chin nook Nation
is about 400 Souls inhabid the Countrey on the Small rivrs which run
into the bay below us and on the Ponds to the N W of us, live
principally on fish and roots, they are well armed with fusees and
Sometimes kill Elk Deer and fowl. our hunters killed to day 3 Deer, 4
brant and 2 Ducks, and inform me they Saw Some Elk Sign. I directed all
the men who wished to See more of the main Ocian to prepare themselves
to Set out with me early on tomorrow morning. The principal Chief of
the Chinnooks & his familey came up to See us this evening-
[Clark, November 18, 1805]
Novr. 18th Monday 1805
a little Cloudy this morning I set out at day light with 10 men & my
Sevent, Shabono, Sergt. Pryer odderway Jos. & R. Fields Shannon Colter,
wiser, Lebiech & york proceeded on Down the Shore from the 1st point
At a run & Island near the Shore here the Traders ancher & trade? we
passed at each point a Soft Clifts of yellow, brown & dark Soft Stones
here Capt Lewis myself & Severl. of the men marked our names day of the
month & by Land &c. &c. from this S. W. 3 miles to the Iner pt. of Cape
Disapointmt passed a point & 2 Small nitches (Reuben Fields killed a
Vulter) we found a Curious fiat fish Shaped like a turtle, with fins on
each side, and a tale notched like a fish, the Internals on one Sid and
tale & fins flat wise This fish Flownder has a white on one Side & lies
flat to the Ground--passed from last hitch across to the ocean 1/2 a
mile low land the Cape is a high Partly bald hill, founded on rock, I
assencled a high Seperate bald hill Covered with long corse grass &
Seperated from the hight of Country by a Slashey bottom 2 miles S. 60 W
of the Cape--thence to a 2d Grassey pt is N. 50° W. 2 miles, Those hills
are founded on rocks & the waves brake with great fury against them,
the Coast is Sholey for Several miles of this Cape & for Some distance
off to the N W a Sand bar in the mouth. Sholey Some distance out from
the mouth The Coast from the Cape N W is open for a Short distance back
then it becomes thick piney Countrey intersperced with ponds
Point addams is S 20° W about 20 miles the Course on that Side bears S 45
W. I cannot assertain the prosise Course of the Deep water in the mouth
of the river, the Channel is but narrow. I proceeded on up above the 2d
point and Encamped on the Shore above the high tide, evening Clear, for
a Short time. Supd. on Brant and pounded fish men all Chearfull,
express a Desire to winter near the falls this winter.
[Clark, November 18, 1805]
November 18h Monday 1805
A little cloudy this morning I Set out with to men and my man York to
the Ocian by land. i. e. Seijt. Ordway & Pryor, Jos. & Ru. Fields, Go.
Shannon, W. Brattin,_J. Colter, P. Wiser, W. Labieche & P. Shabono one
of our interpreters & York. I Set out at Day light and proceeded on a
Sandy beech from Cape Disapointment to a high point of a Mountn. which
we shall call Clarke's Point of View beares S. 20° W. about 40 miles,
point adams is verry low and is Situated within the direction between
those two high points of land, the water appears verry Shole from off
the mouth of the river for a great distance, and I cannot assertain the
direction of the deepest Chanel, the Indians point nearest the opposit
Side. the waves appear to brake with tremendious force in every
direction quite across a large Sand bar lies within the mouth nearest
to point Adams which is nearly covered at high tide. I suped on brant
this evening with a little pounded fish. Some rain in the after part of
the night. men appear much Satisfied with their trip beholding with
estonishment the high waves dashing against the rocks & this emence
ocian
[Clark, November 19, 1805]
November 19th Tuesday 1805
began to rain a little before day and Continued raining untill 11
oClock I proceeded on thro emencely bad thickets & hills crossing 2
points to a 3rd on which we built a fire and Cooked a Deer which Jos.
Field Killd. from this point I can See into a Deep bend in the coast to
the N. E. for 10 miles. after Brackfast I proceeded on N. 20 E. 5 miles
to Comcement a large Sand bar at a low part ponds a little off from the
Coast here the high rockey hills end and a low marshey Countrey
Suckceed. I proceeded up the Course N. 10° W. 4 miles & marked my name &
the Day of the Month on a pine tree, the waters which Wash this Sand
beach is tinged with a deep brown Colour for Some distance out. The
Course Contd. is N. 20° W. low Coast and Sand beech, Saw a Dead Sturgen
10 feet long on the Sand, & the back bone of a Whale, as I conceived
raind I then returned to the Cape & dined, Some curious Deer on this
Course darker large boded Shorte legs Pronged horns & the top of the
tale black under part white as usial passed a nitch in the rocks below
into which falls a Stream, after Dinner I Set out on my return S. E.
passed over a low ridge & thro a piney countrey 21 Vs miles to the Bay,
thence up the Bay to the mouth of the Chen-nook River Crossed in the
Canoe we had left there & Encamped on the upper Side The Hills in the
point of this bay are not high, & imedeately below this River the
present yellow Bluffs above the River and up for about 2 miles the land
is low Slashey and Contains much drift wood, the Countrey up this Creek
is low with Copse of high land or as I may Say elevated. The Buzzard
which Ruben Fields killed diameter of one feather is--11/4 & 1 Line
from the tip of one to the tip of the other wing is 9 feet 0 Inches,
from the point of the Bill to the tale is 3 feet 101/4 Ins. middle Toe
51/2 Inches, Toe nale 1 Inches wing feather 2 feet 1/2 In. Tale
feathers 141/4 In. Head is 61/4 Inch long including the beek
[Clark, November 19, 1805]
November 19th Tuesday 1805
a Cloudy rainey day proceeded up the Coast which runs from my camp 11/4
miles west of the iner extry of the Cape N. 20° W. 5 miles through a
rugged hilley countrey thickly off the Sea coast to the Comencment of
an extencive Sand beech which runs N. 10° W. to point Lewis about 20
miles distance. I proceeded up this coast 4 miles and marked my name on
a low pine. and returned 3 miles back (The Countrey opsd. this Sand
Coast is low and Slashey,) Crossed the point 2 miles to the bay and
encamped on Chinnook river--See another book for perticulars
[Clark, November 19, 1805]
Tuesday November the 19th 1805
I arose early this morning from under a wet blanket caused by a Shower
of rain which fell in the latter part of the last night and Sent two
men on a head with directions to proceed on near the Sea Coast and Kill
Something for brackfast and that I Should follow my Self in about half
an hour. after drying our blankets a little I Set out with a view to
proceed near the Coast the direction of which induced me to conclude
that at the distance of 8 or 10 miles, the Bay was at no great distance
across. I overtook the hunters at about 3 miles, they had killed a
Small Deer on which we brackfast it comened raining and Continud
moderately untill 11 oClock A M.
after takeing a Sumptious brackfast of venison which was rosted on
Stiks exposed to the fire, I proceeded on through ruged Country of high
hills and Steep hollers on a course from the Cape N 20° W. 5 miles on a
Direct line to the Commencement of a Sandy Coast which extended N. 10° W.
from the top of the hill above the Sand Shore to a Point of high land
distant near 20 miles. this point I have taken the Liberty of Calling
after my particular friend Lewis--at the commencement of this Sand
beech the high lands leave the Sea coast in a Direction to Chinnook
river, and does not touch the Sea Coast again below point Lewis
leaveing a low pondey countrey, maney places open with small ponds in
which there is great numbr. of fowl I am informed that the Chinnook
Nation inhabit this low countrey and live in large wood houses on a
river which passes through this bottom Parrilal to the Sea coast and
falls into the Bay
I proceeded on the Sandy Coast 4 miles, and marked my name on a Small
pine, the Day of the month & year, &c. and returned to the foot of the
hill, from which place I intended to Strike across to The Bay, I saw a
Sturgeon which had been thrown on Shore and left by the tide 10 feet in
length, and Several joints of the back bone of a whale which must have
foundered on this part of the Coast. after Dineing on the remains of
our Small Deer I proceeded through over a land S E with Some Ponds to
the bay distance about 2 miles, thence up to the mouth of Chinnook
river 2 miles, crossed this little river in the Canoe we left at its
mouth and Encamped on the upper Side in an open Sandy bottom--The hills
next to the bay Cape disapointment to a Short distance up the Chinnook
river is not verry high thickly Coverd. with different Species of pine
&c. maney of which are large, I observed in maney places pine of 3 or 4
feet through growing on the bodies of large trees which had fallen
down, and covered with moss and yet part Sound. The Deer of this Coast
differ materially from our Common deer in a much as they are much
darker deeper bodied Shorter ledged horns equally branched from the
beem the top of the tail black from the rute to the end Eyes larger and
do not lope but jump-.
[Clark, November 20, 1805]
Novr. 20 Wednesday 1805 Some rain last night despatchd. 3 men to hunt
Jo. Fields & Cotter to hunt Elk & Labich to kill some Brant for our
brackfast The Morning Cleared up fare and we proceeded on by the Same
rout we went out, at the River we found no Indians. made a raft & Ruben
Fields Crossed and took over a Small Canoe which lay at the Indian
Cabin--This Creek is at this time of high tide 300 yards wide & the
marshes for Some distance up the Creek Covered with water. not an
Indian to be Seen near the Creek. I proceeded on to Camp & on my way
was over taken by 3 Indians one gave us Sturgeon & Wapto roots to eate
I met Several parties on way all of them appeared to know me & was
distant, found all well at Camp, maney Indians about one of which had
on a robe made of 2 Sea Orter Skins. Capt Lewis offered him many things
for his Skins with others a blanket, a coat all of which he refused we
at length purchased it for a belt of Blue Beeds which the Squar had-
The tide being out we walked home on the beech
[Clark, November 20, 1805]
Wednesday November the 20th 1805
Some rain last night dispatched Labiech to kill Some fowl for our
brackfast he returned in about 2 hours with 8 large Ducks on which we
brackfast I proceeded on to the enterance of a Creek near a Cabin no
person being at this cabin and 2 Canoes laying on the opposit Shore
from us, I deturmined to have a raft made and Send a man over for a
canoe, a Small raft was Soon made, and Reuben Fields Crossed and
brought over a Canoe--This Creek which is the outlet of a number of
ponds, is at this time (high tide) 300 yds wide--I proceeded on up the
Beech and was overtaken by three Indians one of them gave me Some dried
Sturgeon and a fiew wappato roots, I employd Those Indians to take up
one of our Canoes which had been left by the first party that Came
down, for which Service I gave them each a fishing hook of a large
Size--on my way up I met Several parties of Chinnooks which I had not
before Seen they were on their return from our Camp. all those people
appeard to know my deturmonation of keeping every individual of their
nation at a proper distance, as they were guarded and resurved in my
presence &c. found maney of the Chin nooks with Capt. Lewis of whome
there was 2 Cheifs Com com mo ly & Chil-lar-la-wil to whome we gave
Medals and to one a flag. one of the Indians had on a roab made of 2
Sea Otter Skins the fur of them were more butifull than any fur I had
ever Seen both Capt. Lewis & my Self endeavored to purchase the roab
with different articles at length we precured it for a belt of blue
beeds which the Squar-wife of our interpreter Shabono wore around her
waste. in my absence the hunters had killed Several Deer and fowl of
different kinds
[Clark, November 21, 1805]
November 21st Thursday 1805
a Cloudy morning most of the Indians left us, The nation on the opposit
Side is Small & Called Clap-soil, Their great chief name Stil-la-sha
The nation liveing to the North is Called Chieltz. The chief is name
Malaugh not large nation and wore his beards as informed by the Inds.
In my absence the hunters Kild. 7 Deer, 4 brants & a Crane.
Great numbers of the dark brant passing Southerley, the white yet
Stationary, no gees & Swan to be Seen. The wind blew hard from the S.
E. which with the addition of the flood tide raised emence Swells &
waves which almost entered our Encampment morng. dark & Disagreeable, a
Supriseing Climent. We have not had One cold day Since we passed below
the last falls or great Shute & Some time before the Climent is
temperate, and the only change we have experienced is from fair weather
to rainey windey weather--I made a chief & gave a medel this man is
name Tow-wall and appears to have Some influence with the nation and
tells me he lives at the great Shute-we gave the Squar a Coate of Blue
Cloth for the belt of Blue Beeds we gave for the Sea otter Skins
purchased of an Indian. at 12 oClock it began to rain, and continued
moderately all day, Some wind from the S. E., waves too high for us to
proceed on our homeward bound journey. Lattitude of this place is 46° 19'
11 1/10" North Several Indians and Squars came this evening I beleave
for the purpose of gratifying the passions of our men, Those people
appear to View Sensuality as a necessary evile, and do not appear to
abhore this as Crime in the unmarried females. The young women Sport
openly with our men, and appear to receive the approbation of their
friends & relations for So doing maney of the women are handsom.
They are all low both men and women, I saw the name of J. Bowmon marked
or picked on a young Squars left arm. The women of this nation Pick
their legs in different figures as an orpiment. they were their hair
loose, Some trinkets in their ears, none in the nose as those above,
their Dress is as follows, i,e the men, were a roabe of either the
skins of ____ a Small fured animal, & which is most common, or the
Skins of the Sea orter, Loon, Swan, Beaver, Deer, Elk, or blankets
either red, blu, or white, which roabes cover the sholders arms & body,
all other parts are nakd.
The women were a Short peticoat of the iner bark of the white Ceder or
Arber Vita, which hang down loose in Strings nearly as low as the knee,
with a Short Robe which fall half way down the Thigh. no other part is
Covered. The orniments are beeds, Blue principally, large Brass wire
around their rists Som rings, and maney men have Salors Clothes, many
have good fusees & Ball & Powder--The women ware a String of Something
curious tied tight above the anckle, all have large Swelled legs &
thighs The men Small legs & thighs and Generally badly made--They live
on Elk Deer fowls, but principally fish and roots of 3 Kinds,
Lickorish, Wapto &c. The women have more privalages than is Common
amongst Indians--Pocks & Venerial is Common amongst them I Saw one man
& one woman who appeared to be all in Scabs, & Several men with the
venereal, their other Disorders and the remides for them I could not
lern we divided Some ribin between the men of our party to bestow on
their favourite Lasses, this plan to Save the knives & more valueable
articles.
Those people gave me Sturgion Salmon & wapto roots, & we bought roots,
Some mats &c. &c. for which we were obliged to give emence prices--we
also purchased a kind of Cranberry which the Indians Say the geather in
the low lands, off of Small either vines or bushes just abov the
ground--we also purchased hats made of Grass &c. of those Indians, Some
very handsom mats made of flags-Some fiew curious baskets made of a
Strong weed & willow or ____ Splits-, also a Sweet Soft black root,
about th Sise & Shape of a Carrot, this root they Value verry highly-
The Wapto root is Scerce, and highly valued by those people, this root
they roste in hot ashes like a potato and the outer Skin peals off, tho
this is a trouble they Seldom perform.
[Clark, November 21, 1805]
Thursday November 21st 1805
a cloudy morning most of the Chinnooks leave our Camp and return home,
great numbers of the dark brant passing to the South, the white Brant
have not yet commenced their flight. The wind blew hard from the S. E.
which with the addition of the flood tide raised verry high waves which
broke with great violence against the Shore throwing water into our
Camp--the fore part of this day Cloudy at 12 oClock it began to rain
and Continud all day moderately, Several Indians Visit us to day of
differant nations or Bands Some of the Chiltz Nation who reside on the
Sea Coast near Point Lewis, Several of the Clotsops who reside on the
opposit Side of the Columbia imediately opposit to us, and a Chief from
the Grand rapid to whome we gave a Medal.
An old woman & wife to a Cheif of the Chinnooks came and made a Camp
near ours She brought with her 6 young Squars I believe for the purpose
of gratifying the passions of the men of our party and receving for
those indulgiences Such Small as She (the old woman) thought proper to
accept of, Those people appear to view Sensuality as a Necessary evel,
and do not appear to abhor it as a Crime in the unmarried State--The
young females are fond of the attention of our men and appear to meet
the sincere approbation of their friends and connections, for thus
obtaining their favours; the womin of the Chinnook Nation have handsom
faces low and badly made with large legs & thighs which are generally
Swelled from a Stopage of the circulation in the feet (which are Small)
by maney Strands of Beeds or curious Strings which are drawn tight
around the leg above the anckle, their legs are also picked with
different figures, I Saw on the left arm of a Squar the following
letters,. Bowmon, all those are Considered by the natives of this
quarter as handsom deckerations, and a woman without those deckorations
is Considered as among the lower Class they ware their hair lose
hanging over their back and Sholders maney have blue beeds threaded &
hung from different parts of their ears and about ther neck and around
their wrists, their dress other wise is prosisely like that of the
Nation of Wa ci a cum as already discribed. a Short roab, and tissue or
kind of peticoat of the bark of Cedar which fall down in Strings as low
as the knee behind and not So low before maney of the men have blankets
of red blue or Spotted Cloth or the common three & 21/2 point blankets,
and Salors old Clothes which they appear to prise highly, they also
have robes of Sea Otter, Beaver, Elk, Deer, fox and Cat common to this
countrey, which I have never Seen in the U States. They also precure a
roabe from the nativs above, which is made of the Skins of a Small
animal about the Size of a Cat, which is light and dureable and highly
prized by those people--the greater numbers of the men of the Chinnooks
have Guns and powder and Ball--The Men are low homely and badly made,
Small Crooked legs large feet, and all of both Sects have flattened
heads--The food of this nation is principally fish & roots the fish
they precure from the river by the means of nets and gigs, and the
Salmon which run up the Small branches together with what they collect
drifted up on the Shores of the Sea coast near to where they live
The roots which they use are Several different kinds, the Wappato which
they precure from the nativs above, a black root which they call
Shaw-na tah que & the wild licquorish is the most Common, they also
kill a fiew Elk Deer & fowl--maney of the Chinnooks appear to have
venerious and pustelus disorders. one woman whome I saw at the beech
appeared all over in Scabs and ulsers &c.
we gave to the men each a pece of ribin We purchased Cramberies Mats
verry netely made of flags and rushes, Some roots, Salmon and I
purchased a hat made of Splits & Strong grass, which is made in the
fashion which was common in the U States two years ago also Small
baskets to hold Water made of Split and Straw, for those articles we
gave high prices-.
[Clark, November 22, 1805]
Novr. 22nd Friday 1805
Some little rain all the last night with wind, before day the wind
increased to a Storm from the S. S. E. and blew with violence throwing
the water of the river with emence waves out of its banks almost over
whelming us in water, O! how horriable is the day--This Storm Continued
all day with equal violence accompanied with rain, Several Indians
about us, nothing killed the waves & brakers flew over our Camp, one
Canoe Split by the Tossing of those waves--we are all Confined to our
Camp and wet. purchased some Wapto roots for which was given, brass
armbans & rings of which the Squars were fond. we find the Indians easy
ruled and kept in order by a Stricter indifference towards them
[Clark, November 22, 1805]
Friday November 22nd 1805
a moderate rain all the last night with wind, a little before Day light
the wind which was from the S S. E. blew with Such violence that we wer
almost overwhelmned with water blown from the river, this Storm did not
Sease at day but blew with nearly equal violence throughout the whole
day accompaned with rain. O! how horriable is the day waves brakeing
with great violence against the Shore throwing the Water into our Camp
&c. all wet and Confind to our Shelters, Several Indian men and women
Crouding about the mens Shelters to day, we purchased a fiew wappato
roots for which we gave armbans, & rings to the old Squar, those roots
are equal to the Irish potato, and is a tolerable Substitute for bread
The threat which I made to the men of this nation whome I first Saw,
and an indifference towards them, is I am fulley Convinced the Cause of
their Conducting themselves with great propriety towards ourselves &
Party.
[Clark, November 23, 1805]
November 23rd Saturday 1805
The Cloudy and Calm, a moderate rain the greater part of the last
night, Sent out men to hunt this morning and they Killed 3 Bucks,
rained at intervales all day. I marked my name the Day of the month &
year on a Beech trees & (By Land) Capt Lewis Branded his and the men
all marked their nams on trees about the Camp. one Indian Came up from
their village on some lakes near Haleys bay. In the Evening 7 Indians
of the Clatt Sopp nation, opposit Came over, they brought with them 2
Sea orter Skins, for which the asked Such high prices we were uneabled
to purchase, without reduceing our Small Stock of merchindize on which
we have to depend in part for a Subsistance on our return home, Kiled 4
brant & 3 Ducks to day
[Clark, November 23, 1805]
Saturday November 22rd 1805.
A calm Cloudy morning, a moderate rain the greater part of the last
night, Capt Lewis Branded a tree with his name Date &c. I marked my
name the Day & year on a Alder tree, the party all Cut the first
letters of their names on different trees in the bottom. our hunters
killed 3 Bucks, 4 Brant & 3 Ducks to day.
in the evening Seven indians of the Clot Sop Nation Came over in a
Canoe, they brought with them 2 Sea otter Skins for which they asked
blue beads &c. and Such high pricies that we were unable to purchase
them without reducing our Small Stock of merchendize, on which we
depended for Subcistance on our return up this river--mearly to try the
Indian who had one of those Skins, I offered him my Watch, handkerchief
a bunch of red beads and a dollar of the American Coin, all of which he
refused and demanded "ti-a, co-mo-shack" which is Chief beads and the
most common blue beads, but fiew of which we have at this time
This nation is the remains of a large nation destroyed by the Small pox
or Some other which those people were not acquainted with, they Speak
the Same language of the Chinnooks and resemble them in every respect
except that of Stealing, which we have not Cought them at as yet.
[Clark, November 24, 1805]
November 24th Sunday 1805
Several of the Chenn nook N. Came, one of them brought an Sea orter
Skin for which we gave Some blue Beeds--This day proved to be fair and
we dried our wet articles bedding &c. The hunters killed only 1 brant
no Deer or any thing else
The old chief of Chinn-nook nation and Several men & women Came to our
camp this evening & Smoked the pipe
Serjt J. Ordway
Cross & examine
S
Serjt. N. Pryor
do do
S
Sgt. P. Gass
do do
S
Jo. Shields
proceed to Sandy R
Go. Shannon
Examn. Cross
falls
T. P. Howard
do do
falls
P. Wiser
do do
S. R
J. Collins
do do
S. R
Jo Fields
do do
up
Al. Willard
do do
up
R Willard
do do
up
J. Potts
do do
falls
R. Frasure
do do
up
Wm. Bratten
do do
up
R. Fields
do do
falls
J. B. Thompson
do do
up
J. Colter
do do
up
H. Hall
do do
S. R.
Labeech
do do
S R
Peter Crusatte
do do
S R
J. B. Depage
do do
up
Shabono
---
-
S. Guterich
do do
falls
W. Werner
do do
up
Go. Gibson
do do
up
Jos. Whitehouse
do do
up
Geo Drewyer
Examn other side
falls
McNeal
do do
up
York
" "
lookout
falls Sandy River lookout up
6 10 12
Janey in favour of a place where there is plenty of Potas.
Cp L Proceed on to morrow & examine The other side if good hunting to
winter there, as Salt is an objt. if not to proceed on to Sandy it is
probable that a vestle will come in this winter, & that by proceeding
on at any distance would not inhance our journey in passing the Rockey
mountains, &c.
W C. In favour of proceding on without delay to the opposit Shore &
there examine, and find out both the disposition of the Indians, &
probibilaty of precureing Subsistance, and also enquire if the Tradeing
vestles will arrive before the time we Should depart in the Spring, and
if the Traders, Comonly arive in a Seasonable time, and we Can Subsist
without a depends. on our Stores of goods, to Continue as the Climent
would be more favourable on the Sea Coast for our naked men than higher
up the Countrey where the Climate must be more Severe--The advantage of
the arival of a vestle from whome we Can precure goods will be more
than an over ballance, for the bad liveing we Shall have in liveing on
Pore deer & Elk we may get in this neighbourhood. If we Cannot subsist
on the above terms to proceed on, and make Station Camps, to
neighbourhood of the Frendly village near the long narrows & delay
untill we Can proceed up the river. Salt water I view as an evil in as
much as it is not helthy--I am also of opinion that one two or three
weeks Exemination on the opposide if the propects are any wise
favourable, would not be too long
Variation of the Compass is 16° East
[Clark, November 24, 1805]
Sunday November 24th 1805.
A fair morning Sent out 6 hunters, and we proceeded to make the
following observations a Chief and Several men of the Chin nook nation
Came to Smoke with us this evening one of the men brought a Small Sea
otter Skin for which we gave Some blue beads--this day proved fair
which gave us an oppertunity of drying our wet articles, bedding &c.
&c. nothing killed to day except one Brant. the variation of the
Compass is 16° East.
being now determined to go into Winter quarters as Soon as possible, as
a convenient Situation to precure the Wild animals of the forest which
must be our dependance for Subsisting this Winter, we have every reason
to believe that the nativs have not provisions Suffient for our
Consumption, and if they had, their price's are So high that it would
take ten times as much to purchase their roots & Dried fish as we have
in our possesion, encluding our Small remains of merchindz and Clothes
&c. This Certinly enduces every individual of the party to make
diligient enquiries of the nativs the part of the Countrey in which the
wild Animals are most plenty. They generaly agree that the most Elk is
on the opposit Shore, and that the greatest numbers of Deer is up the
river at Some distance above
The Elk being an animal much larger than Deer, easier to kiled better
meat (in the winter when pore) and Skins better for the Clothes of our
party; added to-, a convenient Situation to the Sea coast where we
Could make Salt, and a probibility of vessels Comeing into the mouth of
Columbia ("which the Indians inform us would return to trade with them
in 3 months") from whome we might precure a fresh Supply of Indian
trinkets to purchase provisions on our return home; together with the
Solicitations of every individual, except one of our party induced us
Conclude to Cross the river and examine the opposit Side, and if a
Sufficent quantity of Elk could probebly be precured to fix on a
Situation as convenient to the Elk & Sea Coast as we Could find--added
to the above advantagies in being near the Sea Coast one most Strikeing
one occurs to me i e, the Climate which must be from every appearance
much milder than that above the 1st range of Mountains, The Indians are
Slightly Clothed and give an account of but little Snow, and the
weather which we have experiened Since we arrived in the neighbourhood
of the Sea Coast has been verry warm, and maney of the fiew days past
disagreeably So. if this Should be the Case it will most Certainly be
the best Situation of our naked party dressed as they are altogether in
leather.
[Clark, November 25, 1805]
November 25th Munday 1805
a fine day Several Indians Come up from below, we loaded and Set out up
the river, and proceeded on to the Shallow Bay, landed to dine, The
Swells too high to cross the river, agreeabley to our wish which is to
examine if game Can be precured Sufficent for us to winter on that
Side, after dinner which was on Drid pounded fish we proceeded on up on
the North Side to near the place of our Encampment of the 7th Instant
and encamped after night The evening cloudy wind of to day Generally
from the E S. E, Saw from near of last Campment Mount Ranier bearing
____
[Clark, November 25, 1805]
Monday 25th November 1805
The Wind being high rendered it impossible for us to Cross the river
from our Camp, we deturmind to proceed on up where it was narrow, we
Set out early accompanied by 7 Chit Sops for a fiew miles, they left us
and Crossed the river through emence high waves; we Dined in the
Shallow Bay on Dried pounded fish, after which we proceeded on near the
North Side of the Columbia, and encamp a little after night near our
Encampment of the 7th instant near a rock at Some distance in the
river. evening Cloudy the Winds of to day is generally E. S. E which
was a verry favourable point for us as the highlands kept it from us
Mt. St. Hilians Can be Seen from the mouth of this river.
[Clark, November 26, 1805]
November 26th Tuesday 1805
Cloudy and Some rain this morning at daylight wind blew from the E N.
E, we Set out and proceeded on up on the North Side of this great river
to a rock in the river from thence we Crossed to the lower point of an
____ Island passed between 2 Islands to the main Shore, and proceeded
down the South Side, passed 2 Inlets & halted below the 2d at a Indian
village of 9 large houses--those Indians live on an emenence behind a
Island or a Channel of the river not more than 300 yds wide, they live
on fish & Elk and Wapto roots, of which we bought a few at a high price
they Call them Selves Cat-tar-bets description
We proceeded on about 8 miles and Encamped in a deep bend to the South,
we had not been Encamped long ere 3 Indians Came in a Canoe to trade
the Wapto roots--we had rain all the day all wet and disagreeable a bad
place to Camp all around this great bend is high land thickly timbered
brushey & almost impossible to penetrate we Saw on an Island below the
village a place of deposit for the dead in Canoes
Great numbers of Swan Geese Brant Ducks & Gulls in this great bend
which is Crouded with low Islands covered with weeds grass &c. and
overflowed every flood tide The people of the last village is-____
they ask emence prices for what they have to Sel Blue Beeds is their
great trade they are fond of Clothes or blankits of Blue red or brown
We are now decending to see if a favourable place should offer on the
So Side to winter &c.
from a high Point opsd. a high Isd down the South Side is S. 30° W 6 mis
to a point of low land opsd. upr. pt of Isd. passed lowr. pt. 1st Isd.
marshey. at the upr. pt. Of 2 low Isd. opsd. each other at 4 miles
[Clark, November 26, 1805]
Tuesday 26th November 1805
Cloudy and Some rain this morning from 6 oClock. wind from the E. N. E,
we Set out out early and crossed a Short distance above the rock out in
the river, & between Some low marshey Islands to the South Side of the
Columbia at a low bottom about 3 miles below Point Samuel and proceeded
near the South Side leaveing the Seal Islands to our right and a
marshey bottom to the left 5 Miles to the Calt-har-mar Village of 9
large wood houses on a handsom elivated Situation near the foot of a
Spur of the high land behind a large low Island Seperated from the
Southerly Shore by a Chanel of about 200 yards Wide, This nation appear
to differ verry little either in language, Customs dress or appearance
from the Chin nooks & War-ci a cum live principally on fish and pappato
they have also other roots, and Some Elk meat.
We purchased Some green fish, & wap pa to for which we gave Imoderate
pricie's. after dining on the fresh fish which we purchased, we
proceeded on through a Deep bend to the South and encamped under a high
hill, where we found much difficuelty in precureing wood to burn, as it
was raining hard, as it had been the greater part of the day. Soon
after we encamped 3 Indians of the last town Came in a Canoe with
wappato roots to Sell to us Some of which we purchased with fish
hooksfrom the Village quite around this bend to the West the land is
high and thickly timbered with pine balsom &c. a Short distance below
the Calt har mer Village on the Island which is Opposit I observed
Several Canoes Scaffold in which Contained their dead, as I did not
examine this mode of deposing the dead, must refer it to a discription
hereafter.
[Clark, November 27, 1805]
November 27th Wednesday 1805
Some rain all the last night & this morning at day light 3 Canoes and
11 men Came down with roots meat, Skins &c. to Sill, they asked Such
high prices we were unable to purchase any thing, and as we were about
Setting out, discovered that one of those Indians had Stole an ax, we
Serched and found it under the roabe of one man whome we Shamed verry
much
we proceeded on, around Point William th Swells became high and rained
so hard we Concluded to halt and dry our Selves, Soon after our landing
the wind rose from the East and blew hard accompanied with rain, this
rain obliged us to unload & draw up our Canoes, one of which was Split
to feet before we got her out of the river, this place the Peninsoley
is about 50 yards and 3 miles around this point of Land. water Salt
below not Salt above.
[Clark, November 27, 1805]
Wednesday 27th November 1805
Rained all the last night and this morning it Continues moderatelyat
day light 3 Canoes and 11 Indians Came from the Village with roots
mats, Skins &c. to Sell, they asked Such high prices that we were
unable to purchase any thing of them, as we were about to Set out
missed one of our axes which was found under an Indians roab I shamed
this fellow verry much and told them they should not proceed with us-
we proceded on between maney Small Islands passing a Small river of
____ yds wide which the Indians Call ____ and around a verry remarkable
point which projects about 11/2 Miles directly towards the Shallow bay
the isthmus which joins it to the main land is not exceding 50 yards
and about 4 Miles around. we call this Point William
below this point the waves became So high we were Compelled to land
unload and traw up the Canoes, here we formed a Camp on the neck of
Land which joins Point William to the main at an old indian hut. The
rain Continued hard all day we are all Wet and disagreeable. one Canoe
Split before we Got her out of the Water 2 feet--The water at our Camp
Salt that above the isthmus fresh and fine
[Clark, November 28, 1805]
November 28th Thursday 1805
Wind Shifted about to the S. W. and blew hard accompanied with hard
rain all last night, we are all wet bedding and Stores, haveing nothing
to keep our Selves or Stores dry, our Lodge nearly worn out, and the
pieces of Sales & tents So full of holes & rotten that they will not
keep any thing dry, we Sent out the most of the men to drive the point
for deer, they Scattered through the point; Some Stood on the pensolu,
we Could find no deer, Several hunters attempted to penetrate the thick
woods to the main South Side without Suckcess, the Swan & gees wild and
Cannot be approached, and wind to high to go either back or forward,
and we have nothing to eate but a little Pounded fish which we
purchasd. at the Great falls, This is our present Situation,! truly
disagreeable. aded to this the robes of our Selves and men are all
rotten from being Continually wet, and we Cannot precure others, or
blankets in their places. about 12 oClock the wind Shifted about to the
N. W and blew with great violence for the remainder of the day at maney
times it blew for 15 or 20 minits with Such violence that I expected
every moment to See trees taken up by the roots, Some were blown down.
Those Squals were Suckceeded by rain,! O how Tremendious is the day.
This dredfull wind and rain Continued with intervales of fair weather,
the greater part of the evening and night.
[Clark, November 28, 1805]
Thursday 28th November 1805
Wind Shifted about to the S. W. and blew hard accompanied with hard
rain. rained all the last night we are all wet our bedding and Stores
are also wet, we haveing nothing which is Sufficient to keep ourselves
bedding or Stores dry Several men in the point hunting deer without
Suckcess, the Swan and brant which are abundant Cannot be approached
Sufficently near to be killed, and the wind and waves too high to
proceed on to the place we expect to find Elk, & we have nothing to
eate except pounded fish which we brought from the Great falls, this is
our present Situation; truly disagreeable. about 12 oClock the wind
Shifted around to the N W. and blew with Such violence that I expected
every moment to See trees taken up by the roots, maney were blown down.
This wind and rain Continued with Short intervales all the latter part
of the night. O! how disagreeable is our Situation dureing this
dreadfull weather.
[Lewis, November 29, 1805]
November 29th 1805.
the wind being so high the party were unable to proceed with the
perogues. I determined therefore to proceed down the river on it's E.
side in surch of an eligible place for our winters residence and
accordingly set out early this morning in the small canoe accompanyed
by 5 men. drewyer R. Fields, Shannon, Colter & labiesh. proceeded along
the coast.
send out the hunters they killed 4 deer 2 brant a goos and seven ducks,
it rained upon us by showers all day. left three of these deer and took
with us one encamped at an old Indian hunting lodge which afforded us a
tolerable shelter from the rain, which continued by intervales
throughout the night.
[Clark, November 29, 1805]
November 29th Friday 1805
Blew hard and rained the greater part of the last night and this
morning, Capt Lewis and 5 men Set out in our Small Indian canoe (which
is made in the Indian fashion Calculated ride the waves) down the South
Side of the river to the place the Indians informed us by Signs that
numbers of Elk were to be found near the river--The Swells and waves
being too high for us to proceed down in our large Canoes, in Safty
I Sent out two hunters to hunt deer, & one to hunt fowl, all the others
employed in drying their leather and prepareing it for use, as but fiew
of them have many other Clothes to boste of at this time, we are Smoked
verry much in this Camp The Shore on the Side next the Sea is Covered
with butifull pebble of various Colours--our diat at this time and for
Severall days past is the dried pounded fish we purchased at the falls
boiled in a little Salt water
[Clark, November 29, 1805]
Friday 29th of November 1805
The wind and rain Continued all the last night, this morning much more
moderate. the waves Still high and rain Continues. Capt Lewis and 5
hunters Set out in our Indian Canoe (which is Calculated to ride wave)
dow to the place we expected to find Elk from the Inds. information,
they pointed to a Small Bay which is yet below us--I Sent out 2 men to
hunt Deer which I expected might be on the open hill Sides below,
another to hunt fowl in the deep bend above the point, all the others
engaged drying their leather before the fire, and prepareing it for
usethey haveing but fiew other Species of Clothing to ware at this time
The winds are from Such points that we cannot form our Camp So as to
provent the Smoke which is emencely disagreeable, and painfull to the
eyes--The Shore below the point at our Camp is formed of butifull
pebble of various colours. I observe but fiew birds of the Small kind,
great numbers of wild fowls of Various kinds, the large Buzzard with
white wings, grey and bald eagle's, large red tailed Hawks, ravens &
Crows in abundance, the blue Magpie, a Small brown bird which frequents
logs & about the roots of trees--Snakes, Lizards, Small bugs, worms,
Spiders, flyes & insects of different kinds are to be Seen in abundance
at this time.
[Lewis, November 30, 1805]
November 30th 1805.
cloudy morning set out before sun rise and continued our rout up the bey
Sent out three men to examin the country to the S. & W. they returned
after about 2 hours and informed me that the wood was so thick and
obstructed by marrasses & lakes that they were unable to proceed to the
ocean which could not be at any considerable distance fom the apparent
sound of the waves breaking on the Coast. we now returned and asscended
the inlet which we had last passd no fresh appearance of Elk or deer in
our rout so far. asscend the inlet as we intended about 1 m. found it
became much smaller and that it did not keep it's direction to the high
land which boar S. 10 W. but inclined West. therefore returned to the
large arm of the bay which we passed this morning. here we expect to
meet with the Clat-sop Indians, who have tantilized us with there being
much game in their neighbourhood. this information in fact was the
cause of my present resurch, for where there is most game is for us the
most eliguble winter station.--continued our rout up the large arm of
the bay about 6 miles and encamped on the Stard. side on the highland.
the water was quite sweet. therefore concluded that it must be supplyed
from a large crick. at our camp it is 120 yds. wide, tho it gets
narrower above. it rained but little on us today tho it was cloudy
generally.--Wind from N. E.--saw a great abundance of fowls, brant,
large geese, white brant sandhill Cranes, common blue crains,
cormarants, haulks, ravens, crows, gulls and a great variety of ducks,
the canvas back, duckinmallard, black and white diver, brown duck--&c &c
[Clark, November 30, 1805]
November 30th Saturday 1805
Some rain and hail with intervales of fair weather for 1 and 2 hours
dureing the night and untill 9 oClock this morning at which time it
Cleared up fair and the Sun Shown, I Send 5 men in a Canoe in the Deep
bend above the Peninsulear to hunt fowles, & 2 men in the thick woods
to hunt Elk had all our wet articles dried & the men all employed
dressing their Skins, I observe but few birds in this Countrey of the
Small kindsgreat numbers of wild fowl, The large Buzzard with white
under their wings Grey & Bald eagle large red tailed hawk, ravins,
Crows, & a small brown bird which is found about logs &c. but fiew
small hawks or other smaller birds to be seen at this time Snakes,
Lizzards, Snales bugs worms Spiders, flies & insects of different kinds
are to be Seen in plenty at this time. The Squar, gave me a piece of
Bread to day made of Some flower She had Cearfully kept for her child,
and had unfortunately got wet The hunters killed only 3 hawks, saw 3
Elk but Could not git a Shot at them, The fowlers, killed 3 black
ducks, with white Sharp bills, a brown Spot in their foward, Some white
under the tail, which Short, and a fiew of the tips of the wing
feathers white, Their toes are long Seperated and flaped, no Craw, keep
in emence large flocks in the Shallow waters & feed on Grass &c.-
Several men Complaining of being unwell to day--a Broock comes in to
the bend above the 1st point above, and a river falls in the next nitch
above this river is Small,--I observe rose bushes Pine, a kind of ash a
Species of Beech and a Species of Maple, in addition to the pine Lorrel
and under groth Common to the woods in this Lower Countrey the hills
are not high & Slope to the river
[Clark, November 30, 1805]
Saturday 30th of November 1805
Some rain and hail with intervales of fair weather for the Space of one
or two hours at a time dureing the night untill 9 oClock this morning,
at which time it Cleared away and the Sun Shewn for ____ hours, Several
men out hunting I Send 5 men in the bend above to hunt fowl &c. in a
Canoe, employ all the others in drying our wet articles by the fire
Several men Complain of a looseness and gripeing which I contribute to
the diet, pounded fish mixed with Salt water, I derect that in future
that the party mix the pounded fish with fresh water--The Squar gave me
a piece of bread made of flour which She had reserved for her child and
carefully Kept untill this time, which has unfortunately got wet, and a
little Sour--this bread I eate with great Satisfaction, it being the
only mouthfull I had tasted for Several months past. my hunters killed
three Hawks, which we found fat and delicious, they Saw 3 Elk but Could
not get a Shot at them. The fowlers killed 3 black Ducks with Sharp
White beeks keep in large flocks & feed on Grass, they have no Craw and
their toes are Seperate, Common in the U. States
The Chinnooks Cath ldh mah & others in this neighbourhood bury their
dead in their Canoes. for this purpose 4 pieces of Split timber are Set
erect on end, and sunk a fiew feet in the ground, each brace having
their flat Sides opposit to each other and Sufficiently far assunder to
admit the width of the Canoe in which the dead are to be deposited;
through each of those perpindicular posts, at the hight of 6 feet a
mortice is Cut, through which two bars of wood are incerted; on those
Cross bars a Small Canoe is placed, in which the body is laid after
beaing Carefully roled in a robe of Some dressed Skins; a paddle is
also deposited with them; a larger Canoe is now reversed, overlaying
and imbracing the Small one, and resting with its gunnals on the Cross
bars; one or more large mats of flags or rushes are then rold. around
the Canoe and the whole Securely lashed with a long Cord usially made
of the bark of the arbar vita or white Cedar. on the Cross bars which
Support the Canoes is frequently hung or laid various articles of
Clothing Culinary utensils &c. we cannot understand them Sufficiently
to make any enquiries relitive to their religious opinions, from their
depositing Various articles with their dead, beleve in a State of
future ixistance.
I walked on the point and observed rose bushes different Species of
pine, a Spcies of ash, alder, a Species of wild Crab Loral and Several
Species of under Broth Common to this lower part of the Columbia river-
The hills on this Coast rise high and are thickly covered with lofty
pine maney of which are 10 & 12 feet through and more than 200 feet
high. hills have a Steep assent.
Part II: Journal Entries of November 1805
- Details
- Written by: Meriwether Lewis and and William Clark
- Category: The Journals of Lewis and Clark 1804-1806