[Lewis, August 1, 1805]
August 1st 1805
At half after 8 A.M. we halted for breakfast and as had been previously
agreed on between Capt. Clark and myself I set out with 3 men in quest
of the Snake Indians. the men I took were the two Interpreters Drewyer
and Sharbono and Sergt. Gass who by an accedental fall had so disabled
himself that it was with much pain he could work in the canoes tho he
could march with convenience. the rout we took lay over a rough high
range of mountains on the North side of the river. the rive entered
these mountains a few miles above where we left it. Capt Clark
recommended this rout to me from a belief that the river as soon as it
past the mountains boar to the N. of W. he having a few days before
ascended these mountains to a position from which he discovered a large
valley passing betwen the mountains and which boar to the N. West. this
however poved to be the inlet of a large creek which discharged itself
into the river just above this range of mountans, the river bearing to
the S. W. we were therefore thrown several miles out of our rout. as
soon as we discovered our mistake we directed our course to the river
which we at length gained about 2 P.M. much exhausted by the heat of
the day the roughnes of the road and the want of water. the mountains
are extreemly bare of timber and our rout lay through the steep valleys
exposed to the heat of the sun without shade and scarcely a breath of
air; and to add to my fatiegue in this walk of about 11 miles I had
taken a doze of glauber salts in the morning in consequence of a slight
desentary with which I had been afflicted for several days; being
weakened by the disorder and the opperation of the medecine I found
myself almost exhausted before we reached the river. I felt my sperits
much revived on our near approach to the river at the sight of a herd
of Elk of which Drewyer and myself killed two. we then hurried to the
river and allayed our thirst. I ordered two of the men to skin the Elk
and bring the meat to the river while myself and the other prepared a
fire and cooked some of the meat for our dinner. we made a comfortable
meal of the Elk and left the ballance of the meat on the bank of the
river the party with Capt. Clark. this supply was no doubt very
acceptable to them as they had had no fresh meat for near two days
except one beaver Game being very scarce and shy. we had seen a few
deer and some goats but had not been fortunate enough to kill any of
them. after dinner we resumed our march and encamped about 6 m. above
on the Stard side of the river.
[Lewis, August 1, 1805]
Thursday August 1st 1805.
This morning we set out early and proceeded on tolerably well untill 8
OCT. by which time we had arrived within a few miles of a mountain
through which the river passes. we halted on the Stard. side and took
breakfast. after which or at 1/2 after 8 A.M. as had been previously
concerted betwen Capt. Clark and myself I set out with three men in
surch of the Snake Indians or Sosonees. our rout lay over a high range
of mountains on the North side of the river. Capt C. recommended this
rout to me no doubt from a beleif that the river as soon as it passed
this chain of mountains boar to the N. of W. he having on the 26th ult.
ascended these mountains to a position from whence he discoved a large
valley passing between the mountains which boar to the N. W. and
presumed that the river passed in that direction; this however proved
to be the passage of a large creek which discharged itself into the
river just above this range of mountains, the river bearing to the S.
W. we were therefore thrown several miles out of our rout. as soon as
we discovered our error we directed our course to the river which we at
length gained about 2 P.M. much exhausted by the heat of the day, the
roughness of the road and the want of water. the mountains are
extreemly bare of timber, and our rout lay through the steep and narrow
hollows of the mountains exposed to the intese heat of the midday sun
without shade or scarcely a breath of air to add to my fatiegue in this
walk of about 11 miles, I had taken a doze of glauber salts in the
morning in consequence of a slight disentary with which I had been
afflicted for several days. being weakened by the disorder and the
operation of the medicine I found myself almost exhausted before we
reached the river. I felt my sperits much revived on our near approach
to the river at the sight of a herd of Elk, of which Drewyer and myself
soon killed a couple. we then hurryed to the river and allayed our
thirst. I ordered two of the men to skin the Elk and bring the meat to
the river, while myself and the other prepared a fire and cooked some
of the meat for our dinner. we made a comfortable meal on the Elk, and
left the ballance of the meat and skins on the bank of the river for
Capt. Clark and party. this supply will no doubt be acceptable to them,
as they had had no fresh meat when I left them for almost 2 days except
one beaver; game being very scarce and shy above the forks. we had seen
a few deer and antelopes but had not been fortunate enough to kill any
of them. as I passed these mountains I saw a flock of the black or dark
brown phesants; the young phesant is almost grown we killed one of
them. this bird is fully a third larger than the common phesant of the
Atlantic states. it's form is much the same. it is booted nearly to the
toes and the male has not the tufts of long black feathers on the sides
of the neck which are so conspicuous in those of the Atlantic. their
colour is a uniform dark brown with a small mixture of yellow or
yelloish brown specks on some of the feathers particularly those of the
tail, tho the extremities of these are perfectly black for about one
inch. the eye is nearly black, the iris has a small dash of yellowish
brown. the feathers of the tail are reather longer than that of our
phesant or pattridge as they are Called in the Eastern States; are the
same in number or eighteen and all nearly of the same length, those in
the intermediate part being somewhat longest. the flesh of this bird is
white and agreeably flavored. I also saw near the top of the mountain
among some scattering pine a blue bird about the size of the common
robbin. it's action and form is somewhat that of the jay bird and never
rests long in any one position but constantly flying or hoping from
sprey to sprey. I shot at one of them but missed it. their note is loud
and frequently repeated both flying and when at rest and is char ah',
char'ah, char ah', as nearly as letters can express it. after dinner we
resumed our march and my pack felt much lighter than it had done about
2 hours before. we traveled about six miles further and encamped on the
stard. bank of the river, making a distance of 17 miles for this day.
the Musquetoes were troublesome but I had taken the precaution of
bringing my bier.
Shortly after I left Capt. Clark this morning he proceed on and passed
through the mountains; they formed tremendious clifts of ragged and
nearly perpendicular rocks; the lower.part of this rock is of the
black grannite before mentioned and the upper part a light coloured
freestone. these clifts continue for 9 miles and approach the river
very closely on either side. he found the current verry strong. Capt.
C. killed a big horn on these clifts which himself and party dined on.
after passing this range of mountains he entered this beautifull valley
in which we also were it is from 6 to 8 miles wide. the river is
crooked and crouded with islands, it's bottoms wide fertile and covered
with fine grass from 9 inches to 2 feet high and possesses but a scant
proportion of timber, which consists almost entirely of a few narrow
leafed cottonwood trees distributed along the verge of the river. in
the evening Capt. C. found the Elk I had left him and ascended a short
distance above to the entrance of a large creek which falls in on
Stard. and encamped opposite to it on the Lard. side. he sent out the
two Fieldses to hunt this evening and they killed 5 deer, which with
the Elk again gave them a plentifull store of fresh provisions. this
large creek we called Field's Creek after Reubin Fields one our party.
on the river about the mountains wich Capt. C. passed today he saw some
large cedar trees and some juniper also just at the upper side of the
mountain there is a bad rappid here the toe line of our canoe broke in
the shoot of the rapids and swung on the rocks and had very nearly
overset. a small distance above this rapid a large bold Creek falls in
on Lard. side which we called Frazier's Creek after Robt. Frazier. They
saw a large brown bear feeding on currants but could not get a shoot at
him.
[Clark, August 1, 1805]
August 1st Wednesday 1805
A fine day Capt. Lewis left me at 8 oClock just below the place I
entered a verrey high mountain which jutted its tremedious Clifts on
either Side for 9 Miles, the rocks ragide Some verry dark & other part
verry light rock the light rocks is Sand Stone. The water Swift & very
Sholey. I killed a Ibix on which the whole party Dined, after passing
through the Mountain we entered a wide extesive vallie of from 4 to 8
Miles wide verry leavell a Creek falls in at the Commencement of this
Vallie on the Lard Side, the river widens & spreds into Small Chanels.
We encamped on the Lard Side opposit a large Creek I sent out Jo. & R
fields to hunt this evening they killed 5 Deer, I saw a large Bear
eateing Currents this evining The river so rapid that the greatest
exertion is required by all to get the boats on wind S W Murckery at
sun rise 50° Ab. 0
[Lewis, August 2, 1805]
August 2nd 1805.
We resumed our march this morning at sunrise the weather was fair and
wind from N. W. finding that the river still boar to the south I
determined to pass it if possible to shorten our rout this we effected
about five miles above our camp of last evening by wading it. found the
current very rappid about 90 yards wide and waist deep this is the
first time that I ever dared to make the attempt to wade the river, tho
there are many places between this and the three forks where I presume
it migh be attempted with equal success. the valley though which our
rout of this day lay and through which the river winds it's meandering
course is a beatifull level plain with but little timber and that on
the verge of the river. the land is tolerably fertile, consisting of a
black or dark yellow loam, and covered with grass from 9 Inches to 2
feet high. the plain ascends gradually on either side of the river to
the bases of two ranges of mountains which ly parrallel to the river
and which terminate the width of the vally. the tops of these mountains
were yet partially covered with snow while we in the valley. were
suffocated nearly with the intense heat of the midday sun. the nights
are so could that two blankets are not more than sufficient covering.
we found a great courants, two kinds of which were red, others yellow
deep purple and black, also black goosburies and service buries now
ripe and in full perfection, we feasted suptuously on our wild fruit
particularly the yellow courant and the deep purple servicebury which I
found to be excellent the courrant grows very much like the red currant
common to the gardens in the atlantic states tho the leaf is somewhat
different and the growth taller. the service burry grows on a smaller
bush and differs from ours only in colour and the superior excellence
of it's flavor and size, it is of a deep purple. this day we saw an
abundance of deer and goats or antelopes and a great number of the
tracks of Elk; of the former we killed two. we continued our rout along
this valley which is from six to eight Miles wide untill sun set when
we encamped for the night on the river bank having traveled about 24
miles. I feel myself perfectly recovered of my indisposition and do not
doubt being able to pursue my march with equal comfort in the morning.
[Lewis, August 2, 1805]
Friday August 2cd 1805.
We resumed our march this morning at sunrise; the day was fair and wind
from N. W. finding that the river still boar to the South I determined
to pass it if possible in order to shorten our rout; this we effected
by wading the river about 5 miles above our encampment of the last
evening. we found the current very rapid waist deep and about 90 yd.
wide bottom smooth pebble with a small mixture of coarse gravel. this
is the first time that I ever dared to wade the river, tho there are
many places between this and the forks where I presume it might be
attempted with equal success. The vally allong which we passed today,
and through which the river winds it's meandering course is from 6 to 8
miles wide and consists of a beatifull level plain with but little
timber and that confined to the verge of the river; the land is
tolerably fertile, and is either black or a dark yellow loam, covered
with grass from 9 inches to 2 feet high. the plain ascends gradually on
either side of the river to the bases of two ranges of high mountains,
which lye parallel to the river and prescribe the limits of the plains.
the tops of these mountains are yet covered partially with snow, while
we in the valley are nearly suffocated with the intense heat of the
midday sun; the nights are so cold that two blankets are not more than
sufficient covering. soon after passing the river this morning Sergt.
Gass lost my tommahawk in the thick brush and we were unable to find
it, I regret the loss of this usefull implement, however accedents will
happen in the best families, and I consoled myself with the
recollection that it was not the only one we had with us. the bones of
the buffaloe and their excrement of an old date are to be met with in
every part of this valley but we have long since lost all hope of
meeting with that animal in these mountains. we met with great
quantities of currants today, two species of which were red, others
yellow, deep perple and black; also black goosberries and
serviceberries now ripe and in great perfection. we feasted sumptuously
on our wild fruits, particularly the yellow currant and the deep perple
serviceberries, which I found to be excellent. the serviceberry grows
on a small bush and differs from ours only in colour size and superior
excellence of it's flavour. it is somewhat larger than ours. on our way
we saw an abundance of deer Antelopes, of the former we killed 2. we
also saw many tracks of the Elk and bear. no recent appearance of
Indians. the Indians in this part of the country appear to construct
their lodges with the willow boughs and brush; they are small of a
conic figure and have a small aperture on one side through which they
enter. we continued our rout up this valley on the Lard. side of the
river untill sunset, at which time we encamped on the Lard. bank of the
river having traveled 24 miles. we had brought with us a good stock of
venison of which we eat a hearty supper. I feel myself perfectly
recovered of my indisposition, and do not doubt being able to pursue my
rout tomorrow with the same comfort I have done today.--we saw some
very large beaver dams today in the bottoms of the river several of
which wer five feet high and overflowed several acres of land; these
dams are formed of willow brush mud and gravel and are so closely
interwoven that they resist the water perfectly. the base of this work
is thick and rises nearly perpendicularly on the lower side while the
upper side or that within the dam is gently sloped. the brush appear to
be laid in no regular order yet acquires a strength by the irregularity
with which they are placed by the beaver that it would puzzle the
engenuity of man to give them.
Capt. Clark continued his rout early this morning. the rapidity of the
current was such that his progress was slow, in short it required the
utmost exertion of the men to get on, nor could they resist this
current by any other means than that of the cord and pole. in the
course of the day they passed some villages of burrowing squirrels, saw
a number of beaver dams and the inhabitants of them, many young ducks
both of the Duckanmallard and the redheaded fishing duck, gees, several
rattle snakes, black woodpeckers, and a large gang of Elk; they found
the river much crouded with island both large and small and passed a
small creek on Stard. side which we called birth Creek. Capt. Clark
discovers a tumor rising on the inner side of his ankle this evening
which was painfull to him. they incamped in a level bottom on the Lard.
side.-
[Clark, August 2, 1805]
August 2nd Friday 1805
a fine day Set out early the river has much the Same kind of banks
Chanel Current &c. as it had in the last vallie, I walked out this
morning on Shore & Saw Several rattle Snakes in the plain, the wind
from the S W we proceeded on with great dificuelty from the rapidity of
the current & rapids, abt. 15 miles and Encamped on the Lard Side, saw
a large Gangue of Elk at Sunset to the S W. passed a Small Creek on the
Stard Side and maney large and Small Islands. Saw a number of young
Ducks as we have also Seen everry Day, Some geese I saw Black
woodpeckers--I have either got my foot bitten by Some poisonous insect
or a turner is riseing on the inner bone of my ankle which is painfull
[Lewis, August 3, 1805]
August the 3rd 1805.
Set out this morning at sunrise and continued our rout through the
valley on the Lard. side of the river. at eleven A.M. Drewyer killed a
doe and we halted and took breakfast. the mountains continue high on
either side of the valley, and are but skantily supplyed with timber;
small pine appears to be the prevalent growth. there is no timber in
the valley except a small quantity of the narrow leafed cottonwood on
the verge of the river. the underwood consists of the narrowleafed or
small willow, honeysuckle rosebushes, courant, goosbury and service
bury bushes allso a small quantity of a species of dwarf burch the leaf
of which, oval, deep green, finely indented and very small. we encamped
this evening after sunset having traveled by estimate 23 miles. from
the width and appearance of the valley at this place I concieved that
the river forked not far above me and therefore resolved the next
morning to examine the adjacent country more minutely.
[Lewis, August 3, 1805]
Saturday August 3rd 1805.
Set out early this morning, or before sunrise; still continued our
march through the level valley on the lard. side of the river. the
valley much as yesterday only reather wider; I think it 12 Miles wide,
tho the plains near the mountains rise higher and are more broken with
some scattering pine near the mountain. in the leaveler parts of the
plain and river bottoms which are very extensive there is no timber
except a scant proportion of cottonwood neat the river. the under wood
consists of the narrow leafed or small willow, the small honeysuckle,
rosebushes, currant, serviceberry, and goosbery bushes; also a small
species of berth in but small quantities the leaf which is oval finely,
indented, small and of a deep green colour. the stem is simple
ascending and branching, and seldom rises higher than 10 or 12 feet.
the Mountains continue high on either side of the valley, and are but
scantily supplyed with timber; small pine apears to be the prevalent
growth; it is of the pith kind, with a short leaf. at 11 A.M. Drewyer
killed a doe and we halted about 2 hours and breakfasted, and then
continued our rout untill night without halting, when we arrived at the
river in a level bottom which appeared to spread to greater extent than
usual. from the appearance of the timber I supposed that the river
forked above us and resolved to examine this part of the river minutely
tomorrow. this evening we passed through a high plain for about 8 miles
covered with prickley pears and bearded grass, tho we found this even
better walking than the wide bottoms of the river, which we passed in
the evening; these altho apparently level, from some cause which I know
not, were formed into meriads of deep holes as if rooted up by hogs
these the grass covered so thick that it was impossible to walk without
the risk of falling down at every step. some parts of these bottoms
also possess excellent terf or peat, I beleive of many feet deep. the
mineral salts also frequently mentioned on the Missouri we saw this
evening in these uneven bottoms. we saw many deer, Antelopes ducks,
gees, some beaver and great appearance of their work. also a small bird
and the Curlooe as usual. we encamped on the river bank on Lard. side
having traveled by estimate 23 Miles. The fish of this part of the
river are trout and a species of scale fish of a white colour and a
remarkable small long mouth which one of our men inform us are the same
with the species called in the Eastern states bottlenose. the snowey
region of the mountains and for some distance below has no timber or
herbage of any kind; the timber is confined to the lower and middle
regions. Capt. Clark set out this morning as usual. he walked on shore
a small distance this morning and killed a deer. in the course of his
walk he saw a track which he supposed to be that of an Indian from the
circumstance of the large toes turning inward. he pursued the track and
found that the person had ascended a point of a hill from which his
camp of the last evening was visible; this circumstance also confirmed
the beleif of it's being an Indian who had thus discovered them and ran
off. they found the river as usual much crouded with islands, the
currant more rapid & much more shallow than usual. in many places they
were obliged to double man the canoes and drag them over the stone and
gravel. this morning they passed a small creek on Stard. at the
entrance of which Reubin Fields killed a large Panther. we called the
creek after that animal Panther Creek. they also passed a handsome
little stream on Lard. which is form of several large springs which
rise in the bottoms and along the base of the mountains with some
little rivulets from the melting snows. the beaver have formed many
large dams on this stream. they saw some deer Antelopes and the common
birds of the country. in the evening they passed a very bad rappid
where the bed of the river is formed entrely of solid rock and encamped
on an island just above. the Panther which Fields killed measured seven
and 1/2 feet from the nose to the extremity of the tail. it is precisely
the same animal common to the western part of our country. the men wer
compelled to be a great proportion of their time in the water today;
they have had a severe days labour and are much fortiegued.
[Clark, August 3, 1805]
August 3rd Saturday1805
a fine morning wind from the N E I walked on Shore & killed a Deer in
my walk I saw a fresh track which I took to be an Indian from the Shape
of the foot as the toes turned in, I think it probable that this Indian
Spied our fires and Came to a Situation to view us from the top of a
Small knob on the Lard Side. the river more rapid and Sholey than
yesterday one R. F. man killed a large Panthor on the Shore we are
oblige to haul over the Canoes Sholey in maney places where the Islands
are noumerous and bottom Sholey, in the evening the river more rapid
and Sholey we encamped on an Island avove a part of the river which
passed thro a rockey bed enclosed on both sides with thick willow
current & red buries &c &c passed a bold Stream which heads in the
mountains to our right and the drean of the minting Snow in the Montn.
on that side ar in View--at 4 oClock passed a bold Stream which falls
from a mountn in three Channels to our left, the Greater portion of the
Snow on this mountain is melted, but little remaining near us Some Deer
Elk & antelopes & Bear in the bottoms. but fiew trees and they Small
the Mountains on our left Contain pine those on our right but verry
partially Supplied and what pine & cedar it has is on the Lower region,
no wood being near the Snow. great numbers of Beaver Otter &c. Some
fish trout & and bottle nose. Birds as usial. Geese young Ducks &
Curlows
[Lewis, August 4, 1805]
August 4th 1805.
Set out very early this morning and steered S. E. by E. about 4 Miles
when we passed a bould runing creek about 12 yards wide the water could
and remarkably clear, we then changed our course to S. E. passing
obliquely across a valley which boar nearly E leaving the valley which
we had pursued for the 2 precedeing days. at the distance of 3 miles we
passed a handsome little river which passes through this valley; it is
about 30 yards wide affords a considerable quantity of water and I
believe it may be navigated some miles. I then changed my rout to S. W.
passed a high plain which lyes between the vallies and returned to the
S. valley, in passing which I fell in with a river about 45 yards wide
which I waideg and then continued my rout down to it's junction with
the river just mentioned, and from thence to the entrance of the creek
which falls in about 2 miles below; still continuing my rout down this
stream about three miles further and about 2 M. below our encampment of
the last evening this river forms a junction with a river 50 yards wide
which comes from the N. W. and falling into the S. valley runs
parrallel with the middle fork about 12 miles. this is a bould rappid &
clear stream it's bed so broken and obstructed by gravel bars and
Islands that it appeared to me impossible to navigate it with safety.
the middle fork is gentle and possesses about 2/3ds as much water as
this rappid stream, it's cours so far as I can observe it is about S.
W. and it appears to be navigable; its water is much warmer than that
of the rappid fork and somewhat turbid, from which I concluded that it
had it's source at a greater distance in the mountains and passed
through an opener country than the other. under this impression I wrote
a note to Capt. Clark recommending his taking the middle fork provided
he should arrive at this place before my return which I expect will be
the day after tomorrow. the note I left on a pole at the forks of the
river and having refreshed ourselves and eat heartily of some venison
we killed this morning I continued my rout up the Stard side of the N.
W. fork, determining to pursue it untill 12 OC. the next day and then
pass over to the middle fork and return to their junction or untill I
met Capt. Clark. we encamped this evening near the point where the
river leaves the valley and enters the mountains, having traveled about
20 miles.-
[Lewis, August 4, 1805]
Sunday August 4th 1805.
Set out very early this morning and Steered S. E. by E. 4 M. when we
pased a bold runing Creek 12 yds. wide, the water of which was clear
and very cold. it appears to be formed by four dranes from the snowey
mountains to our left. after passing this creek we changed our
direction to S. E. passing obliquely across a valley which boar E
leaving the valley we had pursued for the two peceeding days. at the
distance of 3 Ms. we passed a handsome little river which meanders
through this valley; it is about 30 yds wide, affords a considerable
quantity of water and appears as if it might be navigated some miles.
the currant is not rapid nor the water very clear; the banks are low
and the bed formed of stone and gravel. I now changed my rout to S. W.
passed a high plain which lies betwen the valleies and returned to the
South valley, in passing which I fell in with a river about 45 yds.
wide gravley bottom gentle currant waist deep and water of a whitish
blue tinge. this stream we waded and continued our rout down it to the
entrance of the river just mentioned about 3/4 of a mile. still
continuing down we passed the entrance of the creek about 2 miles lower
down; and at the distance of three miles further arrived at it's
junction with a river 50 yds. wide which Comes from the S. W. and
falling into the South valley runs parallel with the middle fork about
12 miles before it forms a junction. I now found that our encampment of
the last evening was about 11/2 miles above the entrance of this large
river on Stard. this is a bold rappid and Clear Stream, it's bed so
much broken and obstructed by gravley bars and it's waters so much
subdivided by Islands that it appears to me utterly impossible to
navigate it with safety. the middle fork is gentle and possesses about
2/3rds as much water as this stream. it's course so far as I can
observe it is about S. W., and from the opening of the valley I beleive
it still bears more to the West above it may be safely navigated. it's
water is much warmer then the rapid fork and it's water more turbid;
from which I conjecture that it has it's sources at a greater distance
in the mountains and passes through an opener country than the other.
under this impression I wrote a note to Capt Clark, recommending his
taking the middle fork povided he should arrive at this place before my
return, which I expect will be the day after tomorrow. this note I left
on a pole at the forks of the river, and having refreshed ourselves and
eat heartily of some venison which we killed this morning we continued
our rout up the rapid fork on the Stard side, resolving to pursue this
stream untill noon tomorrow and then pass over to the middle fork and
come down it to their junction or untill I meet Capt Clark. I have seen
no recent Indian sign in the course of my rout as yet. Charbono
complains much of his leg, and is the cause of considerable detention
to us. we encamped on the river bank near the place at which it leaves
the valley and enters the mountain having traveled about 23 miles. we
saw some Antelopes deer Grains, gees, and ducks of the two species
common to this country. the summer duck has ceased to appear, nor do I
beleive it is an inhabitant of this part of the country. the timber &c
is as heretofore tho there is more in this valley on the rapid fork
than we have seen in the same extent on the river since we entered this
valley. the Indians appear on some parts of the river to have distroyed
a great proportion of the little timber which there is by seting fire
to the bottoms. This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise, and sent
two hunters ahead to kill some meat. at 8 A.M. he arrived at my camp of
the 2ed inst. where he breakfasted; here he found a note which I had
left for him at that place informing him of the occurences of my rout
&c. the river continued to be crouded with Islands, rapid and shoaly.
these shoals or riffles succeeded each other every 3 or four hundred
yards; at those places they are obliged to drag the canoes over the
stone there not being water enough to float them, and betwen the riffles
the current is so strong that they are compelled to have cecourse to
the cord; and being unable to walk on the shore for the brush wade in
the river along the shore and hawl them by the cord; this has increased
the pain and labour extreemly; their feet soon get tender and soar by
wading and walking over the stones. these are also so slipry that they
frequently get severe falls. being constantly wet soon makes them feble
also. their hunters killed 2 deer today and some gees and ducks wer
killed by those who navigated the canoes. they saw deer antelopes
Grains beaver Otter &c. Capt. Clark's ancle became so painfull to him
that he was unable to walk.--This evening they encamped on the Stard.
side in a bottom of cottonwood timber all much fatiegued.
[Clark, August 4, 1805]
August 4th Sunday 1805
a fine morning cool proceeded on verry early and Brackfast at the Camp
Capt Lewis left yesterday morning, at this Camp he left a note
informing that he discovered no fresh Sign of Indians &c. The river
continued to be crouded with Islands Sholey rapid & clear, I could not
walk on Shore to day as my ankle was Sore from a turner on that part.
the method we are compelled to take to get on is fatigueing & laborious
in the extreen, haul the Canoes over the rapids, which Suckceed each
other every two or three hundred yards and between the water rapid
oblige to towe & walke on Stones the whole day except when we have
poleing men wet all day Sore feet &c. &c Murcury at Sun rise 49 a. 0,
[Lewis, August 5, 1805]
Monday August 5th 1805
As Charbono complained of being unable to march far today I ordered him
and Sergt. Gass to pass the rappid river near our camp and proceed at
their leasure through the level bottom to a point of high timber about
seven miles distant on the middle fork which was in view; I gave them
my pack that of Drewyer and the meat which we had, directing them to
remain at that place untill we joined them. I took Drewyer with me and
continued my rout up the stard. side of the river about 4 miles and
then waded it; found it so rapid and shallow that it was impossible to
navigate it. continued up it on the Lard. side about 11/2 miles further
when the mountains put in close on both sides and arrose to great
hight, partially covered with snow. from hence the course of the river
was to the East of North. I took the advantage of a high projecting
spur of the mountain which with some difficulty we ascended to it's
summit in about half an hour. from this eminance I had a pleasing view
of the valley through which I had passed many miles below and the
continuation of the middle fork through the valley equally wide above
me to the distance of about 20 miles when that also appeared to enter
the mountains and disappeared to my view; however the mountains which
termineate the valley in this direction appeared much lower than those
up either of the other forks. on the rapid fork they appeared still to
rise the one range towering above another as far as I could perceive
them. the middle fork as I suspected dose bear considerably to the West
of South and the gap formed by it in the mountains after the valley
terminates is in the same direction. under these circumstances I did
not hesitate in beleiving the middle fork the most proper for us to
ascend. about South from me, the middle fork approached within about 5
miles. I resolved to pass across the plains to it and return to Gass
and Charbono, accordingly we set out and decended the mountain among
some steep and difficult precipices of rocks. here Drewyer missed his
step and had a very dangerous fall, he sprained one of his fingers and
hirt his leg very much. in fifteen or 20 minutes he was able to proceed
and we continued our rout to the river where we had desighned to
interscept it. I quenched my thirst and rested a few minutes examined
the river and found it still very navi-gable. an old indian road very
large and plain leads up this fork, but I could see no tracks except
those of horses which appeared to have passed early in the spring. as
the river mad a great bend to the South East we again ascended the high
plain and steered our course as streight as we could to the point where
I had directed Gass and Sharbono to remain. we passed the plain
regained the bottom and struck the river about 3 miles above them; by
this time it was perfectly dark & we hooped but could hear no tidings
of them. we had struck the river at the point of timber to which I had
directed them, but having mistaken a point of woods lower down, had
halted short of the place. we continued our rout after dark down the
bottom through thick brush of the pulppy leafed thorn and prickly pears
for about 2 hours when we arrived at their camp. they had a small
quantity of meat left which Drewyer and myself eat it being the first
we had taisted today. we had traveled about 25 miles. I soon laid down
and slept very soundly untill morning. I saw no deer today nor any game
except a few Antelopes which were very shy. the soil of the plains is a
light yellow clay very meager and intermixed with a large proportion of
gravel, producing nothing except the twisted or bearded grass, sedge
and prickly pears. the dryer parts of the bottoms are also much more
indifferent in point of soil to those below and are covered with the
southernwood pulpy leafed thorn and prickley pears with but little
grass. the moist parts are fertile and covered with fine grass and sand
rushes.
This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise and dispatched Joseph &
Reubin Fields to hunt. they killed two deer on one of which the party
breakfasted. the river today they found streighter and more rapid even
than yesterday, and the labour and difficulty of the navigation was
proportionably increased, they therefore proceeded but slowly and with
great pain as the men had become very languid from working in the water
and many of their feet swolen and so painfull that they could scarcely
walk. at 4 P.M. they arrived at the confluence of the two rivers where
I had left the note. this note had unfortunately been placed on a green
pole which the beaver had cut and carried off together with the note;
the possibility of such an occurrence never one occurred to me when I
placed it on the green pole. this accedent deprived Capt. Clark of any
information with ripect to the country and supposing that the rapid
fork was most in the direction which it was proper we should pursue, or
West, he took that stream and asscended it with much difficulty about a
mile and encamped on an island that had been lately overflown and was
yet damp; they were therefore compelled to make beds of brush to keep
themselves out of the mud. in ascending this stream for about a quarter
of a mile it scattered in such a maner that they were obliged to cut a
passage through the willow brush which leant over the little channels
and united their tops. Capt. Clarks ankle is extreemly painfull to him
this evening; the tumor has not yet mature, he has a slight fever.--The
men were so much fortiegued today that they wished much that navigation
was at an end that they might go by land.-
[Clark, August 5, 1805]
August 5th Monday 1805
a Cold Clear morning the wind from the S. E. the river Streight & much
more rapid than yesterday, I Sent out Jo. & R. Fields to kill Some meat
they killed 2 Deer & we brackfast on one of them and proceeded on with
great dificuelety from the rapidity of the Current, and numerable
rapids we had to encounter, at 4 oClock P M Murcury 49 ab. 0, passed
the mouth of principal fork which falls in on the Lard. Side, this fork
is about the Size of the Stard. one less water reather not so rapid,
its Course as far as can be Seen is S. E & appear to pass through
between two mountains, the N W. fork being the one most in our course
i. e. S 25 W. as far as I can See, deturmind me to take this fork as
the principal and the one most proper the S E fork is of a Greenish
Colour & contains but little timber. The S W fok contains more timber
than is below for Some distance, we assended this fork about one mile
and Encamped on an Island which had been laterly overflown & was wet we
raised our bead on bushes, we passed a part of the river above the
forks which was divided and Scattered thro the willows in Such a manner
as to render it dificuelt to pass through for a 1/4 of a mile, we wer
oblige to Cut our way thro the willows--Men much fatigued from their
excessive labours in hauling the Canoes over the rapids &c. verry weak
being in the water all day. my foot verry painfull
Assended the N W Fork 9 miles on a Course S. 30° W. to a Bluff on the
Stard. Side passed Several Bayous & Islands
[Lewis, August 6, 1805]
Tuesday August 6th 1805.
We set out this morning very early on our return to the forks. having
nothing to eat I set Drewyer to the woodlands to my left in order to
kill a deer, sent Sergt. Gass to the right with orders to keep
sufficiently near to discover Capt. C. and the party should they be on
their way up that stream, and with Sharbono I directed my course to the
main forks through the bottom directing the others to meet us there.
about five miles above the forks I head the hooping of the party to my
left and changed my rout towards them; on my arrival found that they
had taken the rapid fork and learnt from Capt. Clark that he had not
found the note which I had left for him at that place and the reasons
which had induced him to ascend this stream. it was easeist & more in
our direction, and apd. to contain as much water he had hoever
previously to my comeing up with him, met Drewyer who informed him of
the state of the two rivers and was on his return. one of their canoes
had just overset and all the baggage wet, the medecine box among other
articles and several articles lost a shot pouch and horn with all the
implements for one rifle lost and never recovered. I walked down to the
point where I waited their return. on their arrival found that two
other canoes had filled with water and wet their cargoes completely.
Whitehouse had been thrown out of one of the canoes as she swing in a
rapid current and the canoe had rubed him and pressed him to the bottom
as she passed over him and had the water been 2 inches shallower must
inevitably have crushed him to death. our parched meal, corn, Indian
preasents, and a great part of our most valuable stores were wet and
much damaged on this ocasion. to examine, dry and arrange our stores
was the first object; we therefore passed over to the lard. side
opposite to the entrance of the rapid fork where there was a large
gravly bar that answered our purposes; wood was also convenient and
plenty. here we fixed our camp, and unloaded all our canoes and opened
and exposed to dry such articles as had been wet. a part of the load of
each canoe consisted of the leaden canestirs of powder which were not
in least injured, tho some of them had remained upwards of an hour
under water. about 20 lbs. of powder which we had in a tight Keg or at
least one which we thought sufficiently so got wet and intirely
spoiled. this would have been the case with the other had it not have
been for the expedient which I had fallen on of securing the powder by
means of the lead having the latter formed into canesters which were
filled with the necessary proportion of poder to discharge the lead
when used, and those canesters well secured with corks and wax. in this
country the air is so pure and dry that any vessel however well
seasoned the timber may be will give way or shrink unless it is kept
full of some liquid. we found that three deer skins which we had left
at a considerable hight on a tree were taken off which we supposed had
been done by a panther. we sent out some men to hunt this evening, they
killed 3 deer and four Elk which gave us a plentifull supply of meat
once more. Shannon had been dispatched up the rapid fork this morning
to hunt, by Capt Clark before he met with Drewyer or learnt his mistake
in the rivers. when he returned he sent Drewyer in surch of him, but he
rejoined us this evening and reported that he had been several miles up
the river and could find nothing of him. we had the trumpet sounded and
fired several guns but he did not join us this evening. I am fearful he
is lost again. this is the same man who was seperated from us 15 days
as we came up the Missouri and subsisted 9 days of that time on grapes
only. Whitehouse is in much pain this evening with the injury one of
his legs sustained from the canoe today at the time it upset and swing
over him. Capt Clarks ankle is also very painfull to him.--we should
have given the party a days rest some where near this place had not
this accedent happened, as I had determined to take some observations
to fix the Latitude and longitude of these forks. our merchandize
medecine &c are not sufficiently dry this evening we covered them
securely for the evening. Capt Clark had ascended the river about 9
miles from this place on a course of S 30° W. before he met with Drewyer.
we beleive that the N. W. or rapid fork is the dane of the melting
snows of the mountains, and that it is not as long as the middle fork
and dose not at all seasons of the year supply any thing like as much
water as the other and that about this season it rises to it's greatest
hight. this last appears from the apparent bed of the river which is
now overflown and the water in many plases spreads through old channels
which have their bottoms covered with grass that has grown this season
and is such as appears on the parts of the bottom not innundated. we
therefore determined that the middle fork was that which ought of right
to bear the name we had given to the lower portion or River Jefferson
and called the bold rapid an clear stream Wisdom, and the more mild and
placid one which flows in from the S. E. Philanthrophy, in
commemoration of two of those cardinal virtues, which have so eminently
marked that deservedly selibrated character through life.
[Clark, August 6, 1805]
August 6th Tuesday 1805
a Clear morning Cool wind from the S W we proceeded on with much
dificuelty and fatigue over rapids & Stones; river about 40 or 50 yards
wide much divided by Islands and narrow Bayoos to a low bluff on the
Stard Side & Brackfast, dureing the time of Brackfast Drewyer Came to
me from Capt. Lewis and informed me that they had explored both forks
for 30 or 40 miles & that the one we were assending was impractiabl
much further up & turned imediately to the north, The middle fork he
reported was jintle and after a Short distanc turned to the S. W. and
that all the Indian roades leades up the middle fork. this report
deturmind me to take the middle fork, accordingly Droped down to the
forks where I met with Capt Lewis & party, Capt Lewis had left a Letter
on a pole in the forks informing me what he had discovered & the course
of the rivers &c. this lettr was Cut down by the beaver as it was on a
green pole & Carried off. Three Skins which was left on a tree was
taken off by the Panthers or wolvers. In decending to the Point one
Canoe Struck & turned on a rapid & Sunk, and wet every thing which was
in her, this misfortune obliged us to halt at the forks and dry those
articles, one other Canoe nearly turning over, filled half full of
water & wet our medison & Some Goods Corn &c. Several hunters out to
day & killed a young Elk, Antilope, & 3 Deer, one man Shannon did not
return to night--This evening Cool my anckle much wors than it has
been--this evening a Violent wind from the N. W accompanied with rain
which lasted half an hour wind N. W
[Lewis, August 7, 1805]
Wednesday August 7th 1805.
The morning being fair we spread our stores to dry at an early hour.
Dispatched Reubin Fields in surch of Shannon. our stores were now so
much exhausted that we found we could proceed with one canoe less. we
therefore drew out one of them into a thicket of brush and secured her
in such manner that the water could not take her off should the river
rise to the hight where she is. The creek which falls in above us we
called turf creek from the cercustance of it's bottoms being composed
of excellent turf. my air gun was out of order and her sights had been
removed by some accedent I put her in order and regulated her. she shot
again as well as she ever did. The clouds last night prevented my
taking any lunar observations this day I took Equal Altitudes of the 0
with Sextant.
At one oclock all our baggage was dry we therefore packed it up
reloaded the canoes and the party proceeded with Capt. Clark up
Jefferson's river. I remained with Sergt. Gass to complete the
observation of equal altitudes and joined them in the evening at their
camp on the Lard. side just above the entrance of turf creek. we had a
shower of rain wich continued about 40 minutes attended with thunder
and lightning. this shower wet me perfectly before I reached the camp.
the clouds continued during the night in such manner that I was unable
to obtain any lunar observations. This evening Drewyer brought in a
deer which he had killed. we have not heard any thing from Shannon yet,
we expect that he has pursued Wisdom river upwards for som distance
probably killed some heavy animal and is waiting our arrival. the large
biteing fly or hare fly as they sometimes called are very troublesome
to us. I observe two kinds of them a large black species and a small
brown species with a green head. the musquetoes are not as troublesome
as they were below, but are still in considerable quantities. the eye
knats have disappeared. the green or blowing flies are still in swarms.
r the courses from the entrance of Wisdom river to the forks of
Jefferson's river are taken directly to the objects mentioned and the
distance set down is that by land on a direct line between the points;
the estimated distances by water is also added in the body of the
remarks on each course.
[Clark, August 7, 1805]
August 7th Wednesday 1805
a fine morning put out our Stores &c. to dry & took equal altitudes
with the Sextant,--as our Store were a little exorsted and one Canoe
became unnecessary deturmind to leave one. we Hauled her up in the
bushes on the lower Side of the main fork & fastened her So that the
water could not flote her off. The Countrey in this quarter is as
follows i, e a Vallie of 5 or 6 miles wide Inclosed between two high
Mountains, the bottom rich Some Small timber on the Islands & bushes on
the edges of the river Some Bogs & verry good turf in different places
in the vallie, Some scattering Pine & ceder on the mountains in places,
other Parts nacked except grass and Stone The Lattitude of the Mouth of
Wisdom River is 45° 2' 21.6" North, we proceeded up the Main Middle or S.
E. fork, passed a Camped on the Lard. Side above the mouth of a bold
running Stream 12 yards wide, which we call turf Creek from the number
of bogs & quanty of turf in its waters. this Creek runs thro a open
Plain for Several miles, takeing its rise in a high mountain to the N
E. The river Jefferson above Wisdom is gentle Crooked and about 40
yards wide, Containing but little timber, Some few Cotton willow Willow
& Birch, and the Srubs common to the countrey and before mentioned at 5
oClock a thunder Storm from the N. W. accompanied with rain which
lasted about 40 minits.--despatched R Fields to hunt Shannon, who was
out huntg. on Wisdom river at the time I returned down that Stream, and
has made on up the river expecting us to follow him up that river one
Deer killed this evening. all those Streams Contain emence number of
Beaver orter Muskrats &c.
[Lewis, August 8, 1805]
Thursday August 8th 1805.
We had a heavy dew this morning. as one canoe had been left we had now
more hads to spear for the chase; game being scarce it requires more
hunters to supply us. we therefore dispatched four this morning. we set
out at sunrise and continued our rout up the river which we find much
more gentle and deep than below the entrance of Wisdom river it is from
35 to 45 yards wide very crooked many short bends constituteing large
and general bends; insomuch that altho we travel briskly and a
considerable distance yet it takes us only a few miles on our general
course or rout. there is but very little timber on this fork
principally the under brush frequently mentioned. I observe a
considerable quantity of the buffaloe clover in the bottoms. the
sunflower, flax, green swoard, thistle and several species of the rye
grass some of which rise to the hight of 3 or 4 feet. there is a grass
also with a soft smooth leaf that bears it's seeds very much like the
timothy but it dose not grow very luxouriant or appear as if it would
answer so well as the common timothy for meadows. I preserved some of
it's seeds which are now ripe, thinking perhaps it might answer better
if cultivated, at all events is at least worth the experi-ment. it
rises about 3 feet high. on a direct line about 2 miles above our
encampment of this morning we passed the entrance of Philanthrophy
River which discharges itself by 2 channels a small distance assunder.
this river from it's size and S. Eastwardly course no doubt heads with
Madisons river in the snowey mountains visible in that direction. at
Noon Reubin Fields arrived and reported that he had been up Wisdom
river some miles above where it entered the mountain and could find
nothing of Shannon, he had killed a deer and an Antelope. great
quantity of beaver Otter and musk-rats in these rivers. two of the
hunters we sent out this morning returned at noon had killed each a
deer and an Antelope. we use the seting poles today almost altogether.
we encamped on the Lard sides where there was but little timber were
obliged to use willow brush for fuel; the rosebushes and bryers were
very thick. the hunters brought in another deer this evening. to tumor
on Capt. Clarks ankle has discharged a considerable quantity of matter
but is still much swolen and inflamed and gives him considerable pain.
saw a number of Gees ducks and some Crains today. the former begin to
fly.
the evening again proved cloudy much to my mortification and prevented
my making any lunar observations. the Indian woman recognized the point
of a high plain to our right which she informed us was not very distant
from the summer retreat of her nation on a river beyond the mountains
which runs to the west. this hill she says her nation calls the
beaver's head from a conceived remblance of it's figure to the head of
that animal. she assures us that we shall either find her people on
this river or on the river immediately west of it's source; which from
it's present size cannot be very distant. as it is now all important
with us to meet with those people as soon as possible, I determined to
proceed tomorrow with a small party to the source of the principal
stream of this river and pass the mountains to the Columbia; and down
that river untill I found the Indians; in short it is my resolusion to
find them or some others, who have horses if it should cause me a trip
of one month. for without horses we shall be obliged to leave a great
part of our stores, of which, it appears to me that we have a stock
already sufficiently small for the length of the voyage before us.
[Clark, August 8, 1805]
August 8th Thursday 1805
We proceeded on early wind from the S W. The Thermometer at 52 a 0 at
Sunrise at 5 miles by water & 41/2 on a derect line from the forks we
passed a River on the Lard Side 30 yards wide and navagable for Some
distance takeing its rise in the Mountains Easterly & with the waters
of Madisons River, passes thro an extensive vallie open & furtill &c.
this river we call Philanthophy--above this river (which has but little
timber) Jeffersons R is crooked with Short bends a fiew Islands and
maney gravelly Sholes, no large timber, Small willow Birch & Srubs &c.
Encamped on the Lard Side, R Fields joined us this eveng. & informes
that he could not find Shannon my foot yet verry Swore
[Lewis, August 9, 1805]
Friday August 9th 1805.
The morning was fair and fine; we set out at an early hour and
proceeded on very well. some parts of the river more rapid than
yesterday. I walked on shore across the land to a point which I
presumed they would reach by 8 A.M. our usual time of halting. by this
means I acquired leasure to accomplish some wrightings which I
conceived from the nature of my instructions necessary lest any
accedent should befall me on the long and reather hazardous rout I was
now about to take. the party did not arrive and I returned about a mile
and met them, here they halted and we breakefasted; I had killed two
fine gees on my return. while we halted here Shannon arrived, and
informed us that having missed the party the day on which he set out he
had returned the next morning to the place from whence he had set out
or furst left them and not finding that he had supposed that they wer
above him; that he then set out and marched one day up wisdom river, by
which time he was convinced that they were not above him as the river
could not be navigated; he then returned to the forks and had pursued
us up this river. he brought the skins of three deer which he had
killed which he said were in good order. he had lived very plentifully
this trip but looked a good deel worried with his march. he informed us
that Wisdom river still kept it's course obliquely down the Jefferson's
river as far as he was up it. immediately after breakfast I slung my
pack and set out accompanyed by Drewyer Shields and McNeal who had been
previously directed to hold themselves in readiness for this service. I
directed my course across the bottom to the Stard. plain led left the
beaver's head about 2 miles to my left and interscepted the river about
8 miles from the point at which I had left it; I then waded it and
continued my rout to the point where I could observe that it entered
the mountain, but not being able to reach that place, changed my
direction to the river which I struck some miles below the mountain and
encamped for the evening having traveled 16 M. we passed a handsom
little stream formed by some large spring which rise in this wide
bottom on the Lard. side of the river. we killed two Antelopes on our
way and brought with us as much meat as was necessary for our suppers
and breakfast the next morning. we found this bottom fertile and
covered with taller grass than usual. the river very crooked much
divided by islands, shallow rocky in many plases and very rapid;
insomuch that I have my doubts whether the canoes could get on or not,
or if they do it must be with great labour.--Capt. Clark proceeded
after I left him as usual, found the current of the river increasing in
rapidity towards evening. his hunters killed 2 antelopes only. in the
evening it clouded up and we experienced a slight rain attended with
some thunder and lightning. the musquetoes very troublesome this
evening. there are some soft bogs in these vallies covered with turf.
the earth of which this mud is composed is white or bluish white and
appears to be argillacious.
[Clark, August 9, 1805]
August 9th Friday 1805
a fine morning wind from the N. E we proceeded on verry well rapid
places more noumerous than below, Shannon the man whome we lost on
Wisdom River Joined us, haveing returned to the forks & prosued us up
after prosueing Wisdom River one day
Capt Lewis and 3 men Set out after brackft. to examine the river above,
find a portage if possible, also the Snake Indians. I Should have taken
this trip had I have been able to march, from the rageing fury of a
turner on my anckle musle, in the evening Clouded up and a fiew drops
of rain Encamped on the Lard Side near a low bluff, the river to day as
yesterday. the three hunters Could kill only two antelopes to day, game
of every kind Scerce
[Lewis, August 10, 1805]
Saturday August 10th 1805.
We set out very early this morning and continued our rout through the
wide bottom on the Lard. side of the river after passing a large creek
at about 5 miles we fel in with a plain Indian road which led towards
the point that the river entered the mountain we therefore pursued the
road I sent Drewyer to the wright to kill a deer which we saw feeding
and halted on the river under an immencely high perpendicular clift of
rocks where it entered the mountain here we kindled a fire and waited
for Drewyer. he arrived in about an hour and a half or at noon with
three deer skins and the flesh of one of the best of them, we cooked
and eat a haisty meal and departed, returning a shot distance to the
Indian road which led us the best way over the mountains, which are not
very high but ar ruggid and approach the river closely on both sides
just below these mountains I saw several bald Eagles and two large
white headed fishinghawks boath these birds were the same common to our
country.
from the number of rattle snakes about the Clifts at which we halted we
called them the rattle snake clifts. this serpent is the same before
discribed with oval spots of yellowish brown. the river below the
mountains is rapid rocky, very crooked, much divided by islands and
withal shallow. after it enters the mountains it's bends are not so
circuetous and it's general course more direct, but it is equally
shallow les divided more rocky and rapid. we continued our rout along
the Indian road which led us sometimes over the hills and again in the
narrow bottoms of the river till at the distance of fifteen Ms. from
the rattle snake Clifts we arrived in a hadsome open and leavel vally
where the river divided itself nearly into two equal branches; here I
halted and examined those streams and readily discovered from their
size that it would be vain to attempt the navigation of either any
further. here also the road forked one leading up the vally of each of
these streams. I therefore sent Drewer on one and Shields on the other
to examine these roads for a short distance and to return and compare
their information with respect to the size and apparent plainness of
the roads as I was now determined to pursue that which appeared to have
been the most traveled this spring. in the mean time I wrote a note to
Capt. Clark informing him of the occurrences which had taken place,
recommending it to him to halt at this place untill my return and
informing him of the rout I had taken which from the information of the
men on their return seemed to be in favour of the S W or Left hand fork
which is reather the smallest. accordingly I put up my note on a dry
willow pole at the forks, and set out up the S. E. fork, after
proceeding about 11/2 miles I discovered that the road became so blind
that it could not be that which we had followed to the forks of
Jefferson's river, neither could I find the tracks of the horses which
had passed early in the spring along the other; I therefore determined
to return and examine the other myself, which I did, and found that the
same horses had passed up the West fork which was reather largest, and
more in the direction that I wished to pursue; I therefore did not
hesitate about changing my rout but determined to take the western
road. I now wrote a second note to Capt C. informing him of this change
and sent Drewyer to put it with the other at the forks and waited
untill he returned. there is scarcely any timber on the river above the
R. Snake Clifts, nor is there anything larger than willow brush in
sight of these forks. immediately in the level plain between the forks
and about 1/2 a mile distance from them stands a high rocky mountain,
the base of which is surrounded by the level plain; it has a singular
appearance. the mountains do not appear very high in any direction tho
the tops of some of them are partially covered with snow. this
convinces me that we have ascended to a great hight since we have
entered the rocky Mountains, yet the ascent has been so gradual along
the vallies that it was scarcely perceptable by land. I do not beleive
that the world can furnish an example of a river runing to the extent
which the Missouri and Jefferson's rivers do through such a mountainous
country and at the same time so navigable as they are. if the Columbia
furnishes us such another example, a communication across the continent
by water will be practicable and safe. but this I can scarcely hope
from a knowledge of its having in it comparitively short course to the
ocean the same number of feet to decend which the Missouri and
Mississippi have from this point to the Gulph of Mexico.
The valley of the west fork through which we passed for four miles boar
a little to N of West and was about 1 mile wide hemned in on either
side by rough mountain and steep Clifts of rock at 41/2 miles this
stream enters a beatifull and extensive plain about ten miles long and
from 5 to six in width. this plain is surrounded on all sides by a
country of roling or high wavy plains through which several little
rivulets extend their wide vallies quite to the Mountains which
surround the whole in an apparent Circular manner; forming one of the
handsomest coves I ever saw, of about 16 or 18 miles in diameter. just
after entering this cove the river bends to the N. W. and runs close
under the Stard. hills. here we killed a deer and encamped on the
Stard.,side and made our fire of dry willow brush, the only fuel which
the country produces. there are not more than three or four cottonwood
trees in this extensive cove and they are but small. the uplands are
covered with prickly pears and twisted or bearded grass and are but
poor; some parts of the bottom lands are covered with grass and
tolerably fertile; but much the greater proportion is covered with
prickly pears sedge twisted grass the pulpy leafed thorn southernwood
wild sage &c and like the uplands is very inferior in point of soil. we
traveled by estimate 30 Ms. today, that is 10 to the Rattle snake
Clift, 15 to the forks of Jefferson's river and 5 to our camp in the
cove. at the apparent extremity of the bottom above us two
perpendicular clifts of considerable hight stand on either side of the
river and appers at this distance like a gate, it is about 10 M. due
West.
Capt Clark set out at sunrise this morning and pursued his rout; found
the river not rapid but shallow also very crooked. they were obliged to
drag the canoes over many riffles in the course of the day. they passed
the point which the natives call the beaver's head. it is a steep rocky
clift of 150 feet high near the Stard. side of the river, opposite to
it at the distance of 300 yards is a low clift of about 50 feet which
is the extremity of a spur of the mountains about 4 miles distant on
Lard. at 4 P.M. they experienced a heavy shower of rain attended with
hail thunder and Lightning which continued about an hour. the men
defended themselves from the hail by means of the willow bushes but all
the party got perfectly wet. after the shower was over they pursued
their march and encamped on the stard side only one deer killed by
their hunters today. tho they took up another by the way which had been
killed three days before by Jos. Fields and hung up near the river.
[Clark, August 10, 1805]
August 10th Satturday 1805
Some rain this morning at Sun rise and Cloudy we proceeded on passed a
remarkable Clift point on the Stard. Side about 150 feet high, this
Clift the Indians Call the Beavers head, opposit at 300 yards is a low
clift of 50 feet which is a Spur from the Mountain on the Lard. about 4
miles, the river verry Crooked, at 4 oClock a hard rain from the S W
accompanied with hail Continued half an hour, all wet, the men
Sheltered themselves from the hail with bushes We Encamped on the Stard
Side near a Bluff, only one Deer killed to day, the one killed Jo
Fields 3 Days past & hung up we made use of river narrow, & Sholey but
not rapid.
[Lewis, August 11, 1805]
Sunday August 11th 1805.
We set out very early this morning; but the track which we had pursued
last evening soon disappeared. I therefore resolved to proceed to the
narrow pass on the creek about 10 miles West in hopes that I should
again find the Indian road at the place, accordingly I passed the river
which was about 12 yards wide and bared in several places entirely
across by beaver dams and proceeded through the level plain directly to
the pass. I now sent Drewyer to keep near the creek to my right and
Shields to my left, with orders to surch for the road which if they
found they were to notify me by placing a hat in the muzzle of their
gun. I kept McNeal with me; after having marched in this order for
about five miles I discovered an Indian on horse back about two miles
distant coming down the plain toward us. with my glass I discovered
from his dress that he was of a different nation from any that we had
yet seen, and was satisfyed of his being a Sosone; his arms were a bow
and quiver of arrows, and was mounted on an eligant horse without a
saddle, and a small string which was attatched to the underjaw of the
horse which answered as a bridle. I was overjoyed at the sight of this
stranger and had no doubt of obtaining a friendly introduction to his
nation provided I could get near enough to him to convince him of our
being whitemen. I therefore proceeded towards him at my usual pace.
when I had arrived within about a mile he mad a halt which I did also
and unloosing my blanket from my pack, I mad him the signal of
friendship known to the Indians of the Rocky mountains and those of the
Missouri, which is by holding the mantle or robe in your hands at two
corners and then throwing up in the air higher than the head bringing
it to the earth as if in the act of spreading it, thus repeating three
times. this signal of the robe has arrisen from a custom among all
those nations of spreading a robe or skin for ther gests to set on when
they are visited. this signal had not the desired effect, he still kept
his position and seemed to view Drewyer an Shields who were now
comiming in sight on either hand with an air of suspicion, I wold
willingly have made them halt but they were too far distant to hear me
and I feared to make any signal to them least it should increase the
suspicion in the mind of the Indian of our having some unfriendly
design upon him. I therefore haistened to take out of my sack some
beads a looking glas and a few trinkets which I had brought with me for
this purpose and leaving my gun and pouch with McNeal advanced unarmed
towards him. he remained in the same stedfast poisture untill I arrived
in about 200 paces of him when he turn his hose about and began to move
off slowly from me; I now called to him in as loud a voice as I could
command repeating the word tab-ba-bone, which in their language
signifyes white man. but loking over his sholder he still kept his eye
on Drewyer and Sheilds who wer still advancing neither of them haveing
segacity enough to recollect the impropriety of advancing when they saw
me thus in parley with the Indian. I now made a signal to these men to
halt, Drewyer obeyed but Shields who afterwards told me that he did not
obseve the signal still kept on the Indian halted again and turned his
horse about as if to wait for me, and I beleive he would have remained
untill I came up whith him had it not been for Shields who still
pressed forward. whe I arrived within about 150 paces I again
repepeated the word tab-ba-bone and held up the trinkits in my hands
and striped up my shirt sieve to give him an opportunity of seeing the
colour of my skin and advanced leasure towards him but he did not
remain untill I got nearer than about 100 paces when he suddonly turned
his hose about, gave him the whip leaped the creek and disapeared in
the willow brush in an instant and with him vanished all my hopes of
obtaining horses for the preasent. I now felt quite as much
mortification and disappointment as I had pleasure and expectation at
the first sight of this indian. I fet soarly chargrined at the conduct
of the men particularly Sheilds to whom I principally attributed this
failure in obtaining an introduction to the natives. I now called the
men to me and could not forbare abraiding them a little for their want
of attention and imprudence on this occasion. they had neglected to
bring my spye-glass which in haist I had droped in the plain with the
blanket where I made the signal before mentioned. I sent Drewyer and
Shields back to surche it, they soon found it and rejoined me. we now
set out on the track of the horse hoping by that means to be lead to an
indian camp, the trail of inhabitants of which should they abscond we
should probably be enabled to pursue to the body of the nation to which
they would most probably fly for safety. this rout led us across a
large Island framed by nearly an equal division of the creek in this
bottom; after passing to the open ground on the N. side of the creek we
observed that the track made out toward the high hills about 3 m.
distant in that direction. I thought it probable that their camp might
probably be among those hills & that they would reconnoiter us from the
tops of them, and that if we advanced haistily towards them that they
would become allarmed and probably run off; I therefore halted in an
elivated situation near the creek had a fire kindled of willow brush
cooked and took breakfast. during this leasure I prepared a small
assortment of trinkits consisting of some mockkerson awls a few strans
of several kinds of beads some paint a looking glass &c which I
attatched to the end of a pole and planted it near our fire in order
that should the Indians return in surch of us they might from this
token discover that we were friendly and white persons. before we had
finised our meal a heavy shower of rain came on with some hail wich
continued abot 20 minutes and wet us to the skin, after this shower we
pursued the track of the horse but as the rain had raised the grass
which he had trodden down it was with difficulty that we could follow
it. we pursued it however about 4 miles it turning up the valley to the
left under the foot of the hills. we pas several places where the
Indians appeared to have been diging roots today and saw the fresh
tracks of 8 or ten horses but they had been wandering about in such a
confused manner that we not only lost the track of the hose which we
had been pursuing but could make nothing of them. in the head of this
valley we passed a large bog covered with tall grass and moss in which
were a great number of springs of cold pure water, we now turned a
little to the left along the foot of the high hills and arrived at a
small branch on which we encamped for the night, having traveled in
different directions about 20 Miles and about 10 from the camp of last
evening on a direct line. after meeting with the Indian today I fixed a
small flag of the U'S. to a pole which I made McNeal carry. and planted
in the ground where we halted or encamped.
This morning Capt Clark dispatched several hunters a head; the morning
being rainy and wet did not set out untill after an early breakfast. he
passed a large Island which he called the 3000 mile Island from the
circumstance of it's being that distance from the entrance of the
Missouri by water. a considerable proportion of the bottom on Lard.
side is a bog covered with tall grass and many parts would afford fine
turf; the bottom is about 8 Ms. wide and the plains which succeed it on
either side extend about the same distance to the base of the
mountains. they passed a number of small Islands and bayous on both
sides which cut and intersect the bottoms in various directions. found
the river shallow and rapid, insomuch that the men wer compelled to be
in the water a considerable proportion of the day in drageing the
canoes over the shoals and riffles. they saw a number of geese ducks
beaver & otter, also some deer and antelopes. the men killed a beaver
with a seting pole and tommahawked several Otter. the hunters killed 3
deer and an Antelope. Capt. C. observed some bunches of privy near the
river. there are but few trees in this botom and those small narrow
leafed Cottonwood. the principal growth is willow with the narrow leaf
and Currant bushes. they encamped this evening on the upper point of a
large Island near the Stard. shore.-
[Clark, August 11, 1805]
August 11th Sunday 1805.
a Shower of rain this morning at Sun rise, Cloudy all the morning wind
from the S W passed a large Island which I call the 3000 mile Island as
it is Situated that distance from the mouth of the Missouri by water, a
number of Small Bayoes running in different directions thro the Bottom,
which is about 5 miles wide, then rises to an ellivated plain on each
Side which extends as far. passed Several Small Islands and a number of
Bayoes on each Side and Encamped on the upper point of a large Island,
our hunters killed three Deer, one antilope, and Tomahawked Several
Orter to day killed one Beaver with a Setting pole. I observed Some
bunches of Privey on the banks
[Lewis, August 12, 1805]
Monday August 12th 1805
This morning I sent Drewyer out as soon as it was light, to try and
discover what rout the Indians had taken. he followed the track of the
horse we had pursued yesterday to the mountain wher it had ascended,
and returned to me in about an hour and a half. I now determined to
pursue the base of the mountains which form this cove to the S. W. in
the expectation of finding some Indian road which lead over the
Mountains, accordingly I sent Drewyer to my right and Shields to my
left with orders to look out for a road or the fresh tracks of horses
either of which we should first meet with I had determined to pursue.
at the distance of about 4 miles we passed 4 small rivulets near each
other on which we saw som resent bowers or small conic lodges formed
with willow brush. near them the indians had geathered a number of
roots from the manner in which they had toarn up the ground; but I
could not discover the root which they seemed to be in surch of. I saw
several large hawks that were nearly black near this place we fell in
with a large and plain Indian road which came into the cove from the N.
E. and led along the foot of the mountains to the S. W. oliquely
approaching the main stream which we had left yesterday. this road we
now pursued to the S. W. at 5 miles it passed a stout stream which is a
principal fork of the man stream and falls into it just above the
narrow pass between the two clifts before mentioned and which we now
saw below us. here we halted and breakfasted on the last of our
venison, having yet a small peice of pork in reseve. after eating we
continued our rout through the low bottom of the main stream along the
foot of the mountains on our right the valley for 5 mes. further in a
S. W. direction was from 2 to 3 miles wide the main stream now after
discarding two stream on the left in this valley turns abruptly to the
West through a narrow bottom betwen the mountains. the road was still
plain, I therefore did not dispair of shortly finding a passage over
the mountains and of taisting the waters of the great Columbia this
evening. we saw an animal which we took to be of the fox kind as large
or reather larger than the small wolf of the plains. it's colours were
a curious mixture of black, redis-brown and yellow. Drewyer shot at him
about 130 yards and knocked him dow bet he recovered and got out of our
reach. it is certainly a different animal from any that we have yet
seen. we also saw several of the heath cock with a long pointed tail
and an uniform dark brown colour but could not kill one of them. they
are much larger than the common dunghill fowls, and in their habits and
manner of flying resemble the growse or prarie hen. at the distance of
4 miles further the road took us to the most distant fountain of the
waters of the mighty Missouri in surch of which we have spent so many
toilsome days and wristless nights. thus far I had accomplished one of
those great objects on which my mind has been unalterably fixed for
many years, judge then of the pleasure I felt in allying my thirst with
this pure and ice cold water which issues from the base of a low
mountain or hill of a gentle ascent for 1/2 a mile. the mountains are
high on either hand leave this gap at the head of this rivulet through
which the road passes. here I halted a few minutes and rested myself.
two miles below McNeal had exultingly stood with a foot on each side of
this little rivulet and thanked his god that he had lived to bestride
the mighty & heretofore deemed endless Missouri. after refreshing
ourselves we proceeded on to the top of the dividing ridge from which I
discovered immence ranges of high mountains still to the West of us
with their tops partially covered with snow. I now decended the
mountain about 3/4 of a mile which I found much steeper than on the
opposite side, to a handsome bold running Creek of cold Clear water.
here I first tasted the water of the great Columbia river. after a
short halt of a few minutes we continued our march along the Indian
road which lead us over steep hills and deep hollows to a spring on the
side of a mountain where we found a sufficient quantity of dry willow
brush for fuel, here we encamped for the night having traveled about 20
Miles. as we had killed nothing during the day we now boiled and eat
the remainder of our pork, having yet a little flour and parched meal.
at the creek on this side of the mountain I observed a species of deep
perple currant lower in its growth, the stem more branched and leaf
doubly as large as that of the Missouri. the leaf is covered on it's
under disk with a hairy pubersence. the fruit is of the ordinary size
and shape of the currant and is supported in the usual manner, but is
ascid & very inferior in point of flavor.
this morning Capt. Clark set out early. found the river shoally, rapid
shallow, and extreemly difficult. the men in the water almost all day.
they are geting weak soar and much fortiegued; they complained of the
fortiegue to which the navigation subjected them and wished to go by
land Capt. C. engouraged them and passifyed them. one of the canoes was
very near overseting in a rapid today. they proceeded but slowly. at
noon they had a thunderstorm which continued about half an hour. their
hunters killed 3 deer and a fawn. they encamped in a smoth plain near a
few cottonwood trees on the Lard. side.-
[Clark, August 12, 1805]
August 12th Monday 1805
We Set out early (Wind N E) proceeded on passed Several large Islands
and three Small ones, the river much more Sholey than below which
obliges us to haul the Canoes over those Sholes which Suckceed each
other at Short intervales emencely laborious men much fatigued and
weakened by being continualy in the water drawing the Canoes over the
Sholes encamped on the Lard Side men complain verry much of the emence
labour they are obliged to undergo & wish much to leave the river. I
passify them. the weather Cool, and nothing to eate but venison, the
hunters killed three Deer to day
[Lewis, August 13, 1805]
Tuesday August 13th 1805.
We set out very early on the Indian road which still led us through an
open broken country in a westerly direction. a deep valley appeared to
our left at the base of a high range of mountains which extended from
S. E. to N. W. having their sides better clad with pine timber than we
had been accustomed to see the mountains and their tops were also
partially covered with snow. at the distance of five miles the road
after leading us down a long decending valley for 2 Ms. brought us to a
large creek about 10 yds. wide; this we passed and on rising the hill
beyond it had a view of a handsome little valley to our left of about a
mile in width through which from the appearance of the timber I
conjectured that a river passed. I saw near the creek some bushes of
the white maple, the shumate of the small species with the winged rib,
and a species of honeysuckle much in it's growth and leaf like the
small honeysuckle of the Missouri only reather larger and bears a
globular berry as large as a garden pea and as white as wax. this berry
is formed of a thin smooth pellicle which envellopes a soft white
musilagenous substance in which there are several small brown seed
irregularly scattered or intermixed without any sell or perceptable
membranous covering.--we had proceeded about four miles through a wavy
plain parallel to the valley or river bottom when at the distance of
about a mile we saw two women, a man and some dogs on an eminence
immediately before us. they appeared to vew us with attention and two
of them after a few minutes set down as if to wait our arrival we
continued our usual pace towards them. when we had arrived within half
a mile of them I directed the party to halt and leaving my pack and
rifle I took the flag which I unfurled and avanced singly towards them
the women soon disappeared behind the hill, the man continued untill I
arrived within a hundred yards of him and then likewise absconded. tho
I frequently repeated the word tab-ba-bone sufficiently loud for him to
have heard it. I now haistened to the top of the hill where they had
stood but could see nothing of them. the dogs were less shye than their
masters they came about me pretty close I therefore thought of tying a
handkerchief about one of their necks with some beads and other
trinkets and then let them loose to surch their fugitive owners
thinking by this means to convince them of our pacific disposition
towards them but the dogs would not suffer me to take hold of them;
they also soon disappeared. I now made a signal fror the men to come
on, they joined me and we pursued the back tarck of these Indians which
lead us along the same road which we had been traveling. the road was
dusty and appeared to have been much traveled lately both by men and
horses. these praries are very poor the soil is of a light yellow clay,
intermixed with small smooth gravel, and produces little else but
prickly pears, and bearded grass about 3 inches high. the prickley pear
are of three species that with a broad leaf common to the missouri;
that of a globular form also common to the upper part of the Missouri
and more especially after it enters the Rocky Mountains, also a 3rd
peculiar to this country. it consists of small circular thick leaves
with a much greater number of thorns. these thorns are stronger and
appear to be barbed. the leaves grow from the margins of each other as
in the broad leafed pear of the missouri, but are so slightly attatched
that when the thorn touches your mockerson it adhears and brings with
it the leaf covered in every direction with many others. this is much
the most troublesome plant of the three. we had not continued our rout
more than a mile when we were so fortunate as to meet with three female
savages. the short and steep ravines which we passed concealed us from
each other untill we arrived within 30 paces. a young woman immediately
took to flight, an Elderly woman and a girl of about 12 years old
remained. I instantly laid by my gun and advanced towards them. they
appeared much allarmed but saw that we were to near for them to escape
by flight they therefore seated themselves on the ground, holding down
their heads as if reconciled to die which the expected no doubt would
be their fate; I took the elderly woman by the hand and raised her up
repeated the word tab-babone and strip up my shirt sieve to sew her my
skin; to prove to her the truth of the ascertion that I was a white man
for my face and hads which have been constantly exposed to the sun were
quite as dark as their own. they appeared instantly reconciled, and the
men coming up I gave these women some beads a few mockerson awls some
pewter looking-glasses and a little paint. I directed Drewyer to
request the old woman to recall the young woman who had run off to some
distance by this time fearing she might allarm the camp before we
approached and might so exasperate the natives that they would perhaps
attack us without enquiring who we were. the old woman did as she was
requested and the fugitive soon returned almost out of breath. I
bestoed an equvolent portion of trinket on her with the others. I now
painted their tawny cheeks with some vermillion which with this nation
is emblematic of peace. after they had become composed I informed them
by signs that I wished them to conduct us to their camp that we wer
anxious to become acquainted with the chiefs and warriors of their
nation. they readily obeyed and we set out, still pursuing the road
down the river. we had marched about 2 miles when we met a party of
about 60 warriors mounted on excellent horses who came in nearly full
speed, when they arrived I advanced towards them with the flag leaving
my gun with the party about 50 paces behid me. the chief and two others
who were a little in advance of the main body spoke to the women, and
they informed them who we were and exultingly shewed the presents which
had been given them these men then advanced and embraced me very
affectionately in their way which is by puting their left arm over you
wright sholder clasping your back, while they apply their left cheek to
yours and frequently vociforate the word ah-hi'-e, &h-hi'-e that is, I
am much pleased, I am much rejoiced. bothe parties now advanced and we
wer all carresed and besmeared with their grease and paint till I was
heartily tired of the national hug. I now had the pipe lit and gave
them smoke; they seated themselves in a circle around us and pulled of
their mockersons before they would receive or smoke the pipe. this is a
custom among them as I afterwards learned indicative of a sacred
obligation of sincerity in their profession of friendship given by the
act of receiving and smoking the pipe of a stranger. or which is as
much as to say that they wish they may always go bearfoot if they are
not sincere; a pretty heavy penalty if they are to march through the
plains of their country. after smoking a few pipes with them I
distributed some trifles among them, with which they seemed much
pleased particularly with the blue beads and vermillion. I now informed
the chief that the object of our visit was a friendly one, that after
we should reach his camp I would undertake to explain to him fully
those objects, who we wer, from whence we had come and wither we were
going; that in the mean time I did not care how soon we were in motion,
as the sun was very warm and no water at hand. they now put on their
mockersons, and the principal chief Ca-me-ah-wait made a short speach
to the warriors. I gave him the flag which I informed him was an emblem
of peace among whitemen and now that it had been received by him it was
to be respected as the bond of union between us. I desired him to march
on, which did and we followed him; the dragoons moved on in squadron in
our rear. after we had marched about a mile in this order he halted
them ang gave a second harang; after which six or eight of the young
men road forward to their encampment and no further regularity was
observed in the order of march. I afterwards understood that the
Indians we had first seen this morning had returned and allarmed the
camp; these men had come out armed cap a pe for action expecting to
meet with their enemies the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie whome they
Call Rah'-kees. they were armed with bows arrow and Shield except three
whom I observed with small pieces such as the N. W. Company furnish the
natives with which they had obtained from the Rocky Mountain Indians on
the yellow stone river with whom they are at peace. on our arrival at
their encampmen on the river in a handsome level and fertile bottom at
the distance of 4 Ms. from where we had first met them they introduced
us to a londge made of willow brush and an old leather lodge which had
been prepared for our reception by the young men which the chief had
dispatched for that purpose. Here we were seated on green boughs and
the skins of Antelopes. one of the warriors then pulled up the grass in
the center of the lodge forming a smal circle of about 2 feet in
diameter the chief next produced his pipe and native tobacco and began
a long cerimony of the pipe when we were requested to take of our
mockersons, the Chief having previously taken off his as well as all
the warriors present. this we complyed with; the Chief then lit his
pipe at the fire kindled in this little magic circle, and standing on
the oposite side of the circle uttered a speach of several minutes in
length at the conclusion of which he pointed the stem to the four
cardinal points of the heavens first begining at the East and ending
with the North. he now presented the pipe to me as if desirous that I
should smoke, but when I reached my hand to receive it, he drew it back
and repeated the same cremony three times, after which he pointed the
stern first to the heavens then to the center of the magic circle
smoked himself with three whifs and held the pipe untill I took as many
as I thought proper; he then held it to each of the white persons and
then gave it to be consumed by his warriors. this pipe was made of a
dense simitransparent green stone very highly polished about 21/2
inches long and of an oval figure, the bowl being in the same direction
with the stem. a small piece of birned clay is placed in the bottom of
the bowl to seperate the tobacco from the end of the stem and is of an
irregularly rounded figure not fitting the tube purfectly close in
order that the smoke may pass. this is the form of the pipe. their
tobacco is of the same kind of that used by the Minnetares Mandans and
Ricares of the Missouri. the Shoshonees do not cultivate this plant,
but obtain it from the Rocky mountain Indians and some of the bands of
their own nation who live further south. I now explained to them the
objects of our journey &c. all the women and children of the camp were
shortly collected about the lodge to indulge themselves with looking at
us, we being the first white persons they had ever seen. after the
cerimony of the pipe was over I distributed the remainder of the small
articles I had brought with me among the women and children. by this
time it was late in the evening and we had not taisted any food since
the evening before. the Chief informed us that they had nothing but
berries to eat and gave us some cakes of serviceberries and Choke
cherries which had been dryed in the sun; of these I made a hearty
meal, and then walked to the river, which I found about 40 yards wide
very rapid clear and about 3 feet deep. the banks low and abrupt as
those of the upper part of the Missouri, and the bed formed of loose
stones and gravel. Cameahwait informed me that this stream discharged
itself into another doubly as large at the distance of half a days
march which came from the S. W. but he added on further enquiry that
there was but little more timber below the junction of those rivers
than I saw here, and that the river was confined between inacessable
mountains, was very rapid and rocky insomuch that it was impossible for
us to pass either by land or water down this river to the great lake
where the white men lived as he had been informed. this was unwelcome
information but I still hoped that this account had been exagerated
with a view to detain us among them. as to timber I could discover not
any that would answer the purpose of constructing canoes or in short
more than was bearly necessary for fuel consisting of the narrow leafed
cottonwood and willow, also the red willow Choke Cherry service berry
and a few currant bushes such as were common on the Missouri. these
people had been attacked by the Minetares of Fort de prarie this spring
and about 20 of them killed and taken prisoners. on this occasion they
lost a great part of their horses and all their lodges except that
which they had erected for our accomodation; they were now living in
lodges of a conic figure made of willow brush. I still observe a great
number of horses feeding in every direction around their camp and
therefore entertain but little doubt but we shall be enable to furnish
ourselves with an adiquate number to transport our stores even if we
are compelled to travel by land over these mountains. on my return to
my lodge an indian called me in to his bower and gave me a small morsel
of the flesh of an antelope boiled, and a peice of a fresh salmon
roasted; both which I eat with a very good relish. this was the first
salmon I had seen and perfectly convinced me that we were on the waters
of the Pacific Ocean. the course of this river is a little to the North
of west as far as I can discover it; and is bounded on each side by a
range of high Mountains. tho those on the E. side are lowest and more
distant from the river.
This evening the Indians entertained us with their dancing nearly all
night. at 12 O'Ck. I grew sleepy and retired to rest leaving the men to
amuse themselves with the Indians. I observe no essential difference
between the music and manner of dancing among this nation and those of
the Missouri. I was several times awoke in the course of the night by
their yells but was too much fortiegued to be deprived of a tolerable
sound night's repose.
This morning Capt Clark set out early having previously dispatched some
hunters ahead. it was cool and cloudy all the forepart of the day. at 8
A.M. they had a slight rain. they passed a number of shoals over which
they were obliged to drag the canoes; the men in the water 3/4ths of
the day, they passed a bold runing stream 7 yds. wide on the Lard. side
just below a high point of Limestone rocks. this stream we call
McNeal's Creek after Hugh McNeal one of our party. this creek heads in
the Mountains to the East and forms a handsome valley for some miles
between the mountains. from the top of this limestone Clift above the
creek The beaver's head boar N 24° E. 12 Ms. the course of Wisdom river
or that which the opening of it's valley makes through the mountains is
N. 25 W. to the gap through which Jefferson's river enters the
mountains above is S 18° W 10 M. they killed one deer only today. saw a
number of Otter some beaver Antelopes ducks gees and Grains. they
caught a number of fine trout as they have every day since I left them.
they encamped on Lrd. in a smooth level prarie near a few cottonwood
trees, but were obliged to make use of the dry willow brush for fuel.
[Clark, August 13, 1805]
August 13th Tuesday 1805
a verry Cool morning the Thermometer Stood at 52 a 0 all the fore part
of the day. Cloudy at 8 oClock a mist of rain we proceeded on passed
inumerable Sholes obliged to haul the boat 3/4 of the Day over the
Shole water. passed the mouth of a bold running Stream 7 yards wide on
the Lard Side below a high Point of Limestone rocks on the Stard Side
this Creek heads in the mountains to the easte and forms a Vallie
between two mountains. Call this stream McNeal Creek From the top of
this rock the Point of the Beaver head hill bears N. 24° E 12 ms.
The Course of the Wisdom river is--N. 25 W
The gap at the place the river passes thro a mountain in advance is--S.
18° W. 10 ms.
proceeded on and Encamped on the Lard side no wood except dry willows
and them Small, one Deer killed to day. The river obliges the men to
undergo great fatigue and labour in hauling the Canoes over the Sholes
in the Cold water naked.
[Lewis, August 14, 1805]
Wednesday August 14th
In order to give Capt. Clark time to reach the forks of Jefferson's
river I concluded to spend this day at the Shoshone Camp and obtain
what information I could with rispect to the country. as we had nothing
but a little flour and parched meal to eat except the berries with
which the Indians furnished us I directed Drewyer and Shields to hunt a
few hours and try to kill something, the Indians furnished them with
horses and most of their young men also turned out to hunt. the game
which they principally hunt is the Antelope which they pursue on
horseback and shoot with their arrows. this animal is so extreemly
fleet and dureable that a single horse has no possible chance to
overtake them or run them down. the Indians are therefore obliged to
have recorce to strategem when they discover a herd of the Antelope
they seperate and scatter themselves to the distance of five or six
miles in different directions arround them generally scelecting some
commanding eminence for a stand; some one or two now pursue the herd at
full speed over the hills values gullies and the sides of precipices
that are tremendious to view. thus after runing them from five to six
or seven miles the fresh horses that were in waiting head them and
drive them back persuing them as far or perhaps further quite to the
other extreem of the hunters who now in turn pursue on their fresh
horses thus worrying the poor animal down and finally killing them with
their arrows. forty or fifty hunters will be engaged for half a day in
this manner and perhaps not kill more than two or three Antelopes. they
have but few Elk or black tailed deer, and the common red deer they
cannot take as they secrete themselves in the brush when pursued, and
they have only the bow and arrow wich is a very slender dependence for
killing any game except such as they can run down with their horses. I
was very much entertained with a view of this indian chase; it was
after a herd of about 10 Antelope and about 20 hunters. it lasted about
2 hours and considerable part of the chase in view from my tent. about
1 A.M. the hunters returned had not killed a single Antelope, and their
horses foaming with sweat. my hunters returned soon after and had been
equally unsuccessfull. I now directed McNeal to make me a little paist
with the flour and added some berries to it which I found very
pallateable.
The means I had of communicating with these people was by way of
Drewyer who understood perfectly the common language of jesticulation
or signs which seems to be universally understood by all the Nations we
have yet seen. it is true that this language is imperfect and liable to
error but is much less so than would be expected. the strong parts of
the ideas are seldom mistaken.
I now prevailed on the Chief to instruct me with rispect to the
geography of his country. this he undertook very cheerfully, by
delienating the rivers on the ground. but I soon found that his
information fell far short of my expectation or wishes. he drew the
river on which we now are to which he placed two branches just above
us, which he shewed me from the openings of the mountains were in view;
he next made it discharge itself into a large river which flowed from
the S. W. about ten miles below us, then continued this joint stream in
the same direction of this valley or N. W. for one days march and then
enclined it to the West for 2 more days march, here he placed a number
of beeps of sand on each side which he informed me represented the vast
mountains of rock eternally covered with snow through which the river
passed. that the perpendicular and even juting rocks so closely hemned
in the river that there was no possibilyte of passing along the shore;
that the bed of the river was obstructed by sharp pointed rocks and the
rapidity of the stream such that the whole surface of the river was
beat into perfect foam as far as the eye could reach. that the
mountains were also inaccessible to man or horse. he said that this
being the state of the country in that direction that himself nor none
of his nation had ever been further down the river than these
mountains. I then enquired the state of the country on either side of
the river but he could not inform me. he said there was an old man of
his nation a days march below who could probably give me some
information of the country to the N. W. and refered me to an old man
then present for that to the S. W.--the Chief further informed me that
he had understood from the persed nosed Indians who inhabit this river
below the rocky mountains that it ran a great way toward the seting sun
and finally lost itself in a great lake of water which was illy
taisted, and where the white men lived. I next commenced my enquiries
of the old man to whom I had been refered for information relative the
country S W. of us. this he depicted with horrors and obstructions
scarcely inferior to that just mentioned. he informed me that the band
of this nation to which he belonged resided at the distance of 20 days
march from hence not far from the white people with whom they traded
for horses mules cloth metal beads and the shells which they woar as
orniment being those of a species of perl oister. that the course to
his relations was a little to the West of South. that in order to get
to his relations the first seven days we should be obliged to climb
over steep and rocky mountains where we could find no game to kill nor
anything but roots such as a ferce and warlike nation lived on whom he
called the broken mockersons or mockersons with holes, and said
inhabited those mountains and lived like the bear of other countries
among the rocks and fed on roots or the flesh of such horses as they
could take or steel from those who passed through their country. that
in passing this country the feet of our horses would be so much wounded
with the stones many of them would give out. the next part of the rout
was about 10 days through a dry and parched sandy desert in which no
food at this season for either man or horse, and in which we must
suffer if not perish for the want of water. that the sun had now dryed
up the little pools of water which exist through this desert plain in
the spring season and had also scorched all the grass. that no animal
inhabited this plain on which we could hope to subsist. that about the
center of this plain a large river passed from S. E. to N. W. which was
navigable but afforded neither Salmon nor timber. that beyond this
plain thee or four days march his relations lived in a country
tolerable fertile and partially covered with timber on another large
river which ran in the same direction of the former. that this last
discharged itself into a large river on which many numerous nations
lived with whom his relations were at war but whether this last
discharged itself into the great lake or not he did not know. that from
his relations it was yet a great distance to the great or stinking lake
as they call the Ocean. that the way which such of his nation as had
been to the Stinking lake traveled was up the river on which they lived
and over to that on which the white people lived which last they knew
discharged itself into the Ocean, and that this was the way which he
would advise me to travel if I was determined to proceed to the Ocean
but would advise me to put off the journey untill the next spring when
he would conduct me. I thanked him for his information and advise and
gave him a knife with which he appeared to be much gratifyed. from this
narative I was convinced that the streams of which he had spoken as
runing through the plains and that on which his relations lived were
southern branches of the Columbia, heading with the rivers Apostles and
Collorado, and that the rout he had pointed out was to the Vermillion
Sea or gulph of Callifornia. I therefore told him that this rout was
more to the South than I wished to travel, and requested to know if
there was no rout on the left of this river on which we now are, by
means of which, I could intercept it below the mountains through which
it passes; but he could not inform me of any except that of the barren
plain which he said joined the mountain on that side and through which
it was impossible for us to pass at this season even if we were
fortunate enough to escape from the broken mockerson Indians. I now
asked Cameahwait by what rout the Pierced nosed indians, who he
informed me inhabited this river below the mountains, came over to the
Missouri; this he informed me was to the north, but added that the road
was a very bad one as he had been informed by them and that they had
suffered excessively with hunger on the rout being obliged to subsist
for many days on berries alone as there was no game in that part of the
mountains which were broken rockey and so thickly covered with timber
that they could scarcely pass. however knowing that Indians had passed,
and did pass, at this season on that side of this river to the same
below the mountains, my rout was instantly settled in my own mind,
povided the account of this river should prove true on an investigation
of it, which I was determined should be made before we would undertake
the rout by land in any direction. I felt perfectly satisfyed, that if
the Indians could pass these mountains with their women and Children,
that we could also pass them; and that if the nations on this river
below the mountains were as numerous as they were stated to be that
they must have some means of subsistence which it would be equally in
our power to procure in the same country. they informed me that there
was no buffaloe on the West side of these mountains; that the game
consisted of a few Elk deer and Antelopes, and that the natives
subsisted on fish and roots principally. in this manner I spent the day
smoking with them and acquiring what information I could with respect
to their country. they informed me that they could pass to the
Spaniards by the way of the yellowstone river in 10 days. I can
discover that these people are by no means friendly to the Spaniard
their complaint is, that the Spaniards will not let them have fire arms
and amunition, that they put them off by telling them that if they
suffer them to have guns they will kill each other, thus leaving them
defenceless and an easy prey to their bloodthirsty neighbours to the
East of them, who being in possession of fire arms hunt them up and
murder them without rispect to sex or age and plunder them of their
horses on all occasions. they told me that to avoid their enemies who
were eternally harrassing them that they were obliged to remain in the
interior of these mountains at least two thirds of the year where the
suffered as we then saw great heardships for the want of food sometimes
living for weeks without meat and only a little fish roots and berries.
but this added Cameahwait, with his ferce eyes and lank jaws grown
meager for the want of food, would not be the case if we had guns, we
could then live in the country of buffaloe and eat as our enimies do
and not be compelled to hide ourselves in these mountains and live on
roots and berries as the bear do. we do not fear our enimies when
placed on an equal footing with them. I told them that the Minnetares
Mandans & Recares of the Missouri had promised us to desist from making
war on them & that we would indevour to find the means of making the
Minnetares of fort d Prarie or as they call them Pahkees desist from
waging war against them also. that after our finally returning to our
homes towards the rising sun whitemen would come to them with an
abundance of guns and every other article necessary to their defence
and comfort, and that they would be enabled to supply themselves with
these articles on reasonable terms in exchange for the skins of the
beaver Otter and Ermin so abundant in their country. they expressed
great pleasure at this information and said they had been long anxious
to see the whitemen that traded guns; and that we might rest assured of
their friendship and that they would do whatever we wished them.
I now told Cameahwait that I wished him to speak to his people and
engage them to go with me tomorrow to the forks of Jeffersons river
where our baggage was by this time arrived with another Chief and a
large party of whitemen who would wait my return at that place. that I
wish them to take with them about 30 spare horses to transport our
baggage to this place where we would then remain sometime among them
and trade with them for horses, and finally concert our future plans
for geting on to the ocean and of the traid which would be extended to
them after our return to our homes. he complyed with my request and
made a lengthey harrangue to his village. he returned in about an hour
and a half and informed me that they would be ready to accompany me in
the morning. I promised to reward them for their trouble. Drewyer who
had had a good view of their horses estimated them at 400. most of them
are fine horses. indeed many of them would make a figure on the South
side of James River or the land of fine horses.--I saw several with
Spanish brands on them, and some mules which they informed me that they
had also obtained from the Spaniards. I also saw a bridle bit of
spanish manufactary, and sundry other articles which I have no doubt
were obtained from the same source. notwithstanding the extreem poverty
of those poor people they are very merry they danced again this evening
untill midnight. each warrior keep one ore more horses tyed by a cord
to a stake near his lodge both day and night and are always prepared
for action at a moments warning. they fight on horseback altogether.
lobserve that the large flies are extreemly troublesome to the horses
as well as ourselves.
The morning being cold and the men stif and soar from the exertions of
yesterday Capt. Clark did not set out this morning untill 7 A.M. the
river was so crooked and rapid that they made but little way at one
mile he passed a bold runing stream on Stard. which heads in a mountain
to the North, on which there is snow. this we called track Creek. it is
4 yard wide and 3 feet deep at 7 Ms. passed a stout stream which heads
in some springs under the foot of the mountains on Lard. the river near
the mountain they found one continued rapid, with was extreemly
laborious and difficult to ascend. this evening Charbono struck his
indian Woman for which Capt. C. gave him a severe repremand. Joseph and
Reubin Fields killed 4 deer and an Antelope, Capt. C. killed a buck.
several of the men have lamed themselves by various accedents in
working the canoes through this difficult part of the river, and Capt.
C. was obliged personally to assist them in this labour. they encamped
this evening on Lard. side near the rattlesnake clift
[Clark, August 14, 1805]
August 14th Wednesday 1805.
a Cold morning wind from the S. W. The Thermometer Stood at 51° a 0, at
Sunrise the morning being cold and men Stiff. I deturmind to delay &
take brackfast at the place we Encamped. we Set out at 7 oClock and
proceeded on river verry Crooked and rapid as below Some fiew trees on
the borders near the mountain, passed a bold running Stream at 1 mile
on the Stard. Side which heads in a mountain to the North on which
there is Snow passed a bold running Stream on the Lard. Side which
heads in a Spring undr. a mountain, the river near the mountain is one
continued rapid, which requres great labour to push & haul the Canoes
up. We Encamped on the Lard Side near the place the river passes thro
the mountain. I checked our interpreter for Strikeing his woman at
their Dinner.
The hunters Jo. & R. Fields killed 4 Deer & a antilope, I killed a fat
Buck in the evening, Several men have hurt themselves pushing up the
Canoes. I am oblige to a pole occasionally.
[Lewis, August 15, 1805]
Thursday August 15th 1805.
This morning I arrose very early and as hungary as a wolf. I had eat
nothing yesterday except one scant meal of the flour and berries except
the dryed cakes of berries which did not appear to satisfy my appetite
as they appeared to do those of my Indian friends. I found on enquiry
of McNeal that we had only about two pounds of flour remaining. this I
directed him to divide into two equal parts and to cook the one half
this morning in a kind of pudding with the hurries as he had done
yesterday and reserve the ballance for the evening. on this new
fashoned pudding four of us breakfasted, giving a pretty good allowance
also to the Chief who declared it the best thing he had taisted for a
long time. he took a little of the Hour in his hand, taisted and
examined very scrutinously and asked me if we made it of roots. I
explained to him the manner in which it grew. I hurried the departure
of the Indians. the Chief addressed them several times before they
would move they seemed very reluctant to accompany me. I at length
asked the reason and he told me that some foolish persons among them
had suggested the idea that we were in league with the Pahkees and had
come on in order to decoy them into an ambuscade where their enimies
were waiting to receive them. but that for his part he did not believe
it. I readily perceived that our situation was not entirely free from
danger as the transision from suspicion to the confermation of the fact
would not be very difficult in the minds of these ignorant people who
have been accustomed from their infancy to view every stranger as an
enimy. I told Cameahwait that I was sorry to find that they had put so
little confidence in us, that I knew they were not acquainted with
whitemen and therefore could forgive them. that among whitemen it was
considered disgracefull to lye or entrap an enimy by falsehood. I told
him if they continued to think thus meanly of us that they might rely
on it that no whitemen would ever come to trade with them or bring them
arms and amunition and that if the bulk of his nation still entertained
this opinion I still hoped that there were some among them that were
not affraid to die, that were men and would go with me and convince
themselves of the truth of what I had asscerted. that there was a party
of whitemen waiting my return either at the forks of Jefferson's river
or a little below coining on to that place in canoes loaded with
provisions and merchandize. he told me for his own part he was
determined to go, that he was not affraid to die. I soon found that I
had touched him on the right string; to doubt the bravery of a savage
is at once to put him on his metal. he now mounted his horse and
haranged his village a third time; the perport of which as he
afterwards told me was to inform them that he would go with us and
convince himself of the truth or falsity of what we had told him if he
was sertain he should be killed, that he hoped there were some of them
who heard him were not affraid to die with him and if there was to let
him see them mount their horses and prepare to set out. shortly after
this harange he was joined by six or eight only and with these I smoked
a pipe and directed the men to put on their packs being determined to
set out with them while I had them in the humour at half after 12 we
set out, several of the old women were crying and imploring the great
sperit to protect their warriors as if they were going to inevitable
distruction. we had not proceeded far before our party was augmented by
ten or twelve more, and before we reached the Creek which we had passed
in the morning of the 13th it appeared to me that we had all the men of
the village and a number of women with us. this may serve in some
measure to ilustrate the capricious disposition of those people who
never act but from the impulse of the moment. they were now very
cheerfull and gay, and two hours ago they looked as sirly as so many
imps of satturn. when we arrived at the spring on the side of the
mountain where we had encamped on the 12th the Chief insited on halting
to let the horses graize with which I complyed and gave the Indians
smoke. they are excessively fond of the pipe; but have it not much in
their power to indulge themselves with even their native tobacco as
they do not cultivate it themselves.--after remaining about an hour we
again set out, and by engaging to make compensation to four of them for
their trouble obtained the previlege of riding with an indian myself
and a similar situation for each of my party. I soon found it more
tiresome riding without tirrups than walking and of course chose the
latter making the Indian carry my pack. about sunset we reached the
upper part of the level valley of the Cove which now called Shoshone
Cove. the grass being birned on the North side of the river we passed
over to the south and encamped near some willow brush about 4 miles
above the narrow pass between the hills noticed as I came up this cove
the river was here about six yards wide, and frequently darned up by
the beaver. I had sent Drewyer forward this evening before we halted to
kill some meat but he was unsuccessfull and did not rejoin us untill
after dark I now cooked and among six of us eat the remaining pound of
flour stired in a little boiling water.--Capt. Clark delayed again this
morning untill after breakfast, when he set out and passed between low
and rugged mountains which had a few pine trees distributed over them
the clifts are formed of limestone and a hard black rock intermixed. no
trees on the river, the bottoms narrow river crooked shallow shoally
and rapid. the water is as coald as that of the best springs in our
country. the men as usual suffered excessively with fatiegue and the
coldness of the water to which they were exposed for hours together. at
the distance of 6 miles by water they passed the entrance of a bold
creek on Stard. side 10 yds. wide and 3 f. 3 i. deep which we called
Willard's Creek after Alexander Willard one of our party. at 4 miles by
water from their encampment of las evening passed a bold branch which
tumbled down a steep precipice of rocks from the mountains on the Lard.
Capt Clark was very near being bitten twice today by rattlesnakes, the
Indian woman also narrowly escaped. they caught a number of fine trout.
Capt. Clark killed a buck which was the only game killed today. the
venison has an uncommon bitter taist which is unpleasent. I presume it
proceeds from some article of their food, perhaps the willow on the
leaves of which they feed very much. they encamped this evening on the
Lard. side near a few cottonwood trees about which there were the
remains of several old Indian brush lodges.
[Clark, August 15, 1805]
August 15th Thursday 1805
a Cool windey morning wind from the S W we proceeded on thro a ruged
low mountain water rapid as usial passed a bold running Stream which
falls from the mountain on the Lard. Side at 4 miles, also a bold
running Stream 10 yards wide on the Stard Side 8 feet 3 In. Deep at 6
miles, Willards Creek the bottoms narrow, the Clifs of a Dark brown
Stone Some limestone intermixed--an Indian road passes on the Lard Side
latterly used. Took a Meridian altitude at the Comsnt. of the Mountain
with Octent 65° 47' 0". The Latd. 44° 0' 48 1/10" proceeded on with great
labour & fatigue to the Mouth of a Small run on the Lard. Side
passed Several Spring runs, the men Complain much of their fatigue and
being repetiedly in the water which weakens them much perticularly as
they are obliged to live on pore Deer meet which has a Singular bitter
taste. I have no accounts of Capt Lewis Sence he Set out
In walking on Shore I Saw Several rattle Snakes and narrowly escaped at
two different times, as also the Squar when walking with her husband on
Shore--I killed a Buck nothing else killed to day--This mountn. I call
rattle Snake mountain. not one tree on either Side to day
[Lewis, August 16, 1805]
Friday August 16th 1805.
I sent Drewyer and Shields before this morning in order to kill some
meat as neither the Indians nor ourselves had any thing to eat. I
informed the Ceif of my view in this measure, and requested that he
would keep his young men with us lest by their hooping and noise they
should allarm the game and we should get nothing to eat, but so
strongly were there suspicions exited by this measure that two parties
of discovery immediately set out one on ech side of the valley to watch
the hunters as I beleive to see whether they had not been sent to give
information of their approach to an enemy that they still preswaided
themselves were lying in wait for them. I saw that any further effort
to prevent their going would only add strength to their suspicions and
therefore said no more. after the hunters had been gone about an hour
we set out. we had just passed through the narrows when we saw one of
the spies comeing up the level plain under whip, the chief pawsed a
little and seemed somewhat concerned. I felt a good deel so myself and
began to suspect that by some unfortunate accedent that perhaps some of
there enimies had straggled hither at this unlucky moment; but we were
all agreeably disappointed on the arrival of the young man to learn
that he had come to inform us that one of the whitemen had killed a
deer. in an instant they all gave their horses the whip and I was taken
nearly a mile before I could learn what were the tidings; as I was
without tirrups and an Indian behind me the jostling was disagreeable I
therefore reigned up my horse and forbid the indian to whip him who had
given him the lash at every jum for a mile fearing he should loose a
part of the feast. the fellow was so uneasy that he left me the horse
dismounted and ran on foot at full speed, I am confident a mile. when
they arrived where the deer was which was in view of me they dismounted
and ran in tumbling over each other like a parcel of famished dogs each
seizing and tearing away a part of the intestens which had been
previously thrown out by Drewyer who killed it; the seen was such when
I arrived that had I not have had a pretty keen appetite myself I am
confident I should not have taisted any part of the venison shortly.
each one had a peice of some discription and all eating most
ravenously. some were eating the kidnies the melt and liver and the
blood runing from the corners of their mouths, others were in a similar
situation with the paunch and guts but the exuding substance in this
case from their lips was of a different discription. one of the last
who attacted my attention particularly had been fortunate in his
allotment or reather active in the division, he had provided himself
with about nine feet of the small guts one end of which he was chewing
on while with his hands he was squezzing the contents out at the other.
I really did not untill now think that human nature ever presented
itself in a shape so nearly allyed to the brute creation. I viewed
these poor starved divils with pity and compassion I directed McNeal to
skin the deer and reserved a quarter, the ballance I gave the Chief to
be divided among his people; they devoured the whole of it nearly
without cooking. I now boar obliquely to the left in order to
interscept the creek where there was some brush to make a fire, and
arrived at this stream where Drewyer had killed a second deer; here
nearly the same seene was encored. a fire being kindled we cooked and
eat and gave the ballance of the two deer to the Indians who eat the
whole of them even to the soft parts of the hoofs. Drewyer joined us at
breakfast with a third deer. of this I reserved a quarter and gave the
ballance to the Indians. they all appeared now to have filled
themselves and were in a good humour. this morning early soon after the
hunters set out a considerable part of our escort became allarmed and
returned 28 men and three women only continued with us. after eating
and suffering the horses to graize about 2 hours we renued our march
and towads evening arrived at the lower part of the cove Shields killed
an Antelope on the way a part of which we took and gave the remainder
to the Indians. being now informed of the place at which I expected to
meat Capt C. and the party they insisted on making a halt, which was
complyed with. we now dismounted and the Chief with much cerimony put
tippets about our necks such as they temselves woar I redily perceived
that this was to disguise us and owed it's origine to the same cause
already mentioned. to give them further confidence I put my cocked hat
with feather on the chief and my over shirt being of the Indian form my
hair deshivled and skin well browned with the sun I wanted no further
addition to make me a complete Indian in appearance the men followed my
example and we were son completely metamorphosed. I again repeated to
them the possibility of the party not having arrived at the place which
I expected they were, but assured them they could not be far below,
lest by not finding them at the forks their suspicions might arrise to
such hight as to induce them to return precipitately. we now set out
and rode briskly within sight of the forks making one of the Indians
carry the flag that our own party should know who we were. when we
arrived in sight at the distance of about 2 miles I discovered to my
mortification that the party had not arrived, and the Indians slackened
their pace. I now scarcely new what to do and feared every moment when
they would halt altogether, I now determined to restore their
confidence cost what it might and therefore gave the Chief my gun and
told him that if his enimies were in those bushes before him that he
could defend himself with that gun, that for my own part I was not
affraid to die and if I deceived him he might make what uce of the gun
he thought proper or in other words that he might shoot me. the men
also gave their guns to other indians which seemed to inspire them with
more confidence; they sent their spies before them at some distance and
when I drew near the place I thought of the notes which I had left and
directed Drewyer to go with an Indian man and bring them to me which he
did. the indian seeing him take the notes from the stake on which they
had been plased I now had recource to a stratagem in which I thought
myself justifyed by the occasion, but which I must confess set a little
awkward. it had it's desired effect. after reading the notes which were
the same I had left I told the Chief that when I had left my brother
Chief with the party below where the river entered the mountain that we
both agreed not to bring the canoes higher up than the next forks of
the river above us wherever this might happen, that there he was to
wait my return, should he arrive first, and that in the event of his
not being able to travel as fast as usual from the difficulty of the
water, that he was to send up to the first forks above him and leave a
note informing me where he was, that this note was left here today and
that he informed me that he was just below the mountains and was coming
on slowly up, and added that I should wait here for him, but if they
did not beleive me that I should send a man at any rate to the Chief
and they might also send one of their young men with him, that myself
and two others would remain with them at this place. this plan was
readily adopted and one of the young men offered his services; I
promised him a knife and some beads as a reward for his confidence in
us. most of them seemed satisfyed but there were several that
complained of the Chief's exposing them to danger unnecessarily and
said that we told different stories, in short a few were much
dissatisfyed. I wrote a note to Capt. Clark by the light of some willow
brush and directed Drewyer to set out early being confident that there
was not a moment to spare. the chief and five or six others slept about
my fire and the others hid themselves in various parts of the willow
brush to avoid the enimy whom they were fearfull would attack them in
the course of the night. I now entertained various conjectures myself
with rispect to the cause of Capt. Clarks detention and was even fearful
l that he had found the river so difficult that he had halted below the
Rattlesnake bluffs. I knew that if these people left me that they would
immediately disperse and secrete themselves in the mountains where it
would be impossible to find them or at least in vain to pursue them and
that they would spread the allarm to all other bands within our reach &
of course we should be disappointed in obtaining horses, which would
vastly retard and increase the labour of our voyage and I feared might
so discourage the men as to defeat the expedition altogether. my mind
was in reallity quite as gloomy all this evening as the most affrighted
indian but I affected cheerfullness to keep the Indians so who were
about me. we finally laid down and the Chief placed himself by the side
of my musquetoe bier. I slept but little as might be well expected, my
mind dwelling on the state of the expedition which I have ever held in
equal estimation with my own existence, and the fait of which appeared
at this moment to depend in a great measure upon the caprice of a few
savages who are ever as fickle as the wind. I had mentioned to the
chief several times that we had with us a woman of his nation who had
been taken prisoner by the Minnetares, and that by means of her I hoped
to explain myself more fully than I could do by signs. some of the
party had also told the Indians that we had a man with us who was black
and had short curling hair, this had excited their curiossity very
much. and they seemed quite as anxious to see this monster as they wer
the merchandize which we had to barter for their horses.
at 7 A M. Capt. C. set out after breakfast. he changed the hands in
some of the canoes; they proceeded with more ease than yesterday, yet
they found the river still rapid and shallow insomuch that they were
obliged to drag the large canoes the greater part of the day. the water
excessively cold. in the evening they passed several bad rapids.
considerable quantities of the buffaloe clover grows along the narrow
bottoms through which they passed. there was no timber except a few
scatiring small pine on the hills. willow service berry and currant
bushes were the growth of the river bottoms. they geatherd considerable
quantities of service berries, and caught some trout. one deer was
killed by the hunters who slept out last night. and did not join the
party untill 10 A.M.
Capt. Clark sent the hunters this evening up to the forks of the river
which he discovered from an eminence; they mus have left this place but
a little time before we arrived. this evening they encamped on the
Lard. side only a few miles below us. and were obliged like ourselves
to make use of small willow brush for fuel. the men were much fatigued
and exhausted this evening.
[Clark, August 16, 1805]
August 16th Friday 1805
as this morning was cold and the men fatigued Stiff and Chilled
deturmined me to detain & take brackfast before I Set out. I changed
the hands and Set out at 7 oClock proceeded on Something better than
yesterday for the fore part of the Day passed Several rapids in the
latter part of the day near the hills river passed between 2 hills I
saw a great number of Service berries now ripe. the Yellow Current are
also Common I observe the long leaf Clover in great plenty in the
vallie below this vallie--Some fiew tres on the river no timber on the
hills or mountn. except a fiew Small Pine & Cedar. The Thmtr. Stood at
48° a. 0 at Sunrise wind S W. The hunters joined me at 1 oClock, I
dispatched 2 men to prosue an Indian roade over the hills for a fiew
miles, at the narrows I assended a mountain from the top of which I
could See that the river forked near me the left hand appeared the
largest & bore S. E. the right passed from the West thro an extensive
Vallie, I could See but three Small trees in any Direction from the top
of this mountain. passed an Isld. and Encamped ion the Lard. Side the
only wood was Small willows
[Lewis, August 17, 1805]
Saturday August 17th 1805.
This morning I arrose very early and dispatched Drewyer and the Indian
down the river. sent Shields to hunt. I made McNeal cook the remainder
of our meat which afforded a slight breakfast for ourselves and the
Cheif. Drewyer had been gone about 2 hours when an Indian who had
straggled some little distance down the river returned and reported
that the whitemen were coming, that he had seen them just below. they
all appeared transported with joy, & the chef repeated his fraturnal
hug. I felt quite as much gratifyed at this information as the Indians
appeared to be. Shortly after Capt. Clark arrived with the Interpreter
Charbono, and the Indian woman, who proved to be a sister of the Chif
Cameahwait. the meeting of those people was really affecting,
particularly between Sah cah-gar-we-ah and an Indian woman, who had
been taken prisoner at the same time with her, and who had afterwards
escaped from the Minnetares and rejoined her nation. At noon the Canoes
arrived, and we had the satisfaction once more to find ourselves all
together, with a flattering prospect of being able to obtain as many
horses shortly as would enable us to prosicute our voyage by land
should that by water be deemed unadvisable.
We now formed our camp just below the junction of the forks on the
Lard. side in a level smooth bottom covered with a fine terf of
greenswoard. here we unloaded our canoes and arranged our baggage on
shore; formed a canopy of one of our large sails and planted some
willow brush in the ground to form a shade for the Indians to set under
while we spoke to them, which we thought it best to do this evening.
acordingly about 4 P.M. we called them together and through the medium
of Labuish, Charbono and Sah-cah-gar-weah, we communicated to them
fully the objects which had brought us into this distant part of the
country, in which we took care to make them a conspicuous object of our
own good wishes and the care of our government. we made them sensible
of their dependance on the will of our government for every species of
merchandize as well for their defence & comfort; and apprized them of
the strength of our government and it's friendly dispositions towards
them. we also gave them as a reason why we wished to petrate the
country as far as the ocean to the west of them was to examine and find
out a more direct way to bring merchandize to them. that as no trade
could be carryed on with them before our return to our homes that it
was mutually advantageous to them as well as to ourselves that they
should render us such aids as they had it in their power to furnish in
order to haisten our voyage and of course our return home. that such
were their horses to transport our baggage without which we could not
subsist, and that a pilot to conduct us through the mountains was also
necessary if we could not decend the river by water. but that we did
not ask either their horses or their services without giving a
satisfactory compensation in return. that at present we wished them to
collect as many horses as were necessary to transport our baggage to
their village on the Columbia where we would then trade with them at
our leasure for such horses as they could spare us.--They appeared well
pleased with what had been said. the chief thanked us for friendship
towards himself and nation & declared his wish to serve us in every
rispect; that he was sorry to find that it must yet be some time before
they could be furnished with firearms but said they could live as they
had done heretofore untill we brought them as we had promised. he said
they had not horses enough with them at present to remove our baggage
to their village over the mountain, but that he would return tomorrow
and encourage his people to come over with their horses and that he
would bring his own and assist us. this was complying with all we
wished at present. we next enquired who were chiefs among them.
Cameahwait pointed out two others whom he said were Chiefs we gave him
a medal of the small size with the likeness of Mr. Jefferson the
President of the U States in releif on one side and clasp hands with a
pipe and tomahawk on the other, to the other Chiefs we gave each a
small medal which were struck in the Presidency of George Washing Esqr.
we also gave small medals of the last discription to two young men whom
the 1st Chief informed us wer good young men and much rispected among
them. we gave the 1st Chief an uniform coat shirt a pair of scarlet
legings a carrot of tobacco and some small articles to each of the
others we gave a shirt leging handkerchief a knife some tobacco and a
few small articles we also distributed a good quantity paint mockerson
awls knives beads lookingglasses &c among the other Indians and gave
them a plentifull meal of lyed corn which was the first they had ever
eaten in their lives. they were much pleased with it. every article
about us appeared to excite astonishment in ther minds; the appearance
of the men, their arms, the canoes, our manner of working them, the
back man york and the segacity of my dog were equally objects of
admiration. I also shot my air-gun which was so perfectly
incomprehensible that they immediately denominated it the great
medicine. the idea which the indians mean to convey by this appellation
is something that eminates from or acts immediately by the influence or
power of the great sperit; or that in which the power of god is
manifest by it's incomprehensible power of action. our hunters killed 4
deer and an Antelope this evening of which we also gave the Indians a
good proportion. the cerimony of our council and smoking the pipe was
in conformity of the custom of this nation perfomed bearfoot. on those
occasions points of etiquet are quite as much attended to by the
Indians as among scivilized nations. To keep indians in a good humour
you must not fatiegue them with too much business at one time.
therefore after the council we gave them to eat and amused them a while
by shewing them such articles as we thought would be entertaining to
them, and then renewed our enquiries with rispect to the country. the
information we derived was only a repetition of that they had given me
before and in which they appeared to be so candid that I could not
avoid yealing confidence to what they had said. Capt. Clark and myself
now concerted measures for our future operations, and it was mutually
agreed that he should set out tomorrow morning with eleven men
furnished with axes and other necessary tools for making canoes, their
arms accoutrements and as much of their baggage as they could carry.
also to take the indians Carbono and the indian woman with him; that on
his arrival at the Shoshone camp he was to leave Charbono and the
Indian woman to haisten the return of the Indians with their horses to
this place, and to proceede himself with the eleven men down the
Columbia in order to examine the river and if he found it navigable and
could obtain timber to set about making canoes immediately. In the mean
time I was to bring on the party and baggage to the Shoshone Camp,
calculating that by the time I should reach that place that he would
have sufficiently informed himself with rispect to the state of the
river &c. as to determine us whether to prosicute our journey from
thence by land or water. in the former case we should want all the
horses which we could perchase, the latter only to hire the Indians to
transport our baggage to the place at which we made the canoes. in
order to inform me as early as possible of the state of the river he
was to send back one of the men with the necessary information as soon
as he should satisfy himself on this subject. this plan being settled
we gave orders accordingly and the men prepared for an early march. the
nights are very cold and the sun excessively hot in the day. we have no
fuel here but a few dry willow brush. and from the appearance of
country I am confident we shall not find game here to subsist us many
days. these are additional reasons why I conceive it necessary to get
under way as soon as possible.--this morning Capt. Clark had delayed
untill 7 A.M. before he set out just about which time Drewyer arrived
with the Indian; he left the canoes to come on after him, and
immediately set out and joined me as has been before mentioned.The
sperits of the men were now much elated at the prospect of geting
horses.
[Clark, August 17, 1805]
August 17th Satturday 1805
a fair Cold morning wind S. W. the Thermometer at 42 a. 0 at Sunrise,
We Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on to the forks I had not
proceeded on one mile before I saw at a distance Several Indians on
horsback Comeing towards me, The Intertrepeter & Squar who were before
me at Some distance danced for the joyful Sight, and She made signs to
me that they were her nation, as I aproached nearer them descovered one
of Capt Lewis party With them dressed in their Dress; the met me with
great Signs of joy, as the Canoes were proceeding on nearly opposit me
I turned those people & joined Capt Lewis who had Camped with 16 of
those Snake Indians at the forks 2 miles in advance. those Indians Sung
all the way to their Camp where the others had provd. a cind of Shade
of Willows Stuck up in a Circle the Three Chiefs with Capt. Lewis met
me with great cordialliaty embraced and took a Seat on a white robe,
the Main Chief imedeately tied to my hair Six Small pieces of Shells
resembling perl which is highly Valued by those people and is prcured
from the nations resideing near the Sea Coast. we then Smoked in their
fassion without Shoes and without much cerimoney and form.
Capt Lewis informed me he found those people on the Columbia River
about 40 miles from the forks at that place there was a large camp of
them, he had purswaded those with him to Come and See that what he said
was the truth, they had been under great apprehension all the way, for
fear of their being deceived. The Great Chief of this nation proved to
be the brother of the Woman with us and is a man of Influence Sence &
easey & reserved manners, appears to possess a great deel of Cincerity.
The Canoes arrived & unloaded--every thing appeared to asstonish those
people. the appearance of the men, their arms, the Canoes, the Clothing
my black Servent. & the Segassity of Capt Lewis's Dog. we Spoke a fiew
words to them in the evening respecting our rout intentions our want of
horses &c. & gave them a fiew presents & medals--we made a number of
inquires of those people about the Columbia River the Countrey game &c.
The account they gave us was verry unfavourable, that the River
abounded in emence falls, one perticularly much higher than the falls
of the Missouri & at the place the mountains Closed So Close that it
was impracticable to pass, & that the ridge Continued on each Side of
perpendicular Clifts inpenetratable, and that no Deer Elk or any game
was to be found in that Countrey, aded to that they informed us that
there was no timber on the river Sufficiently large to make Small
Canoes, This information (if true is alarming) I deturmined to go in
advance and examine the Countrey, See if those dificueltes presented
themselves in the gloomey picture in which they painted them, and if
the river was practiable and I could find timber to build Canoes, those
Ideas & plan appeard to be agreeable to Capt Lewis's Ideas on this
point, and I selected 11 men, directed them to pack up their baggage
Complete themselves with amunition, take each an ax and Such tools as
will be Soutable to build Canoes, and be ready to Set out at 10 oClock
tomorrow morning. Those people greatly pleased our hunters killed three
Deer & an antilope which was eaten in a Short time the Indians being so
harrassed & compelled to move about in those rugid mountains that they
are half Starved liveing at this time on berries & roots which they
geather in the plains. Those people are not begerley but generous, only
one has asked me for anything and he for powder.
This nation Call themselves Cho-shop-ne the Chief is name
Too-et-te-con'l Black Gun is his war name Ka-me-ah-wah--or Come &
Smoke. this Chief gave me the following name and pipe Ka-me-ah-wah.
[Lewis, August 18, 1805]
Sunday August 18th 1805.
This morning while Capt Clark was busily engaged in preparing for his
rout, I exposed some articles to barter with the Indians for horses as
I wished a few at this moment to releive the men who were going with
Capt Clark from the labour of carrying their baggage and also one to
keep here in order to pack the meat to camp which the hunters might
kill. I soon obtained three very good horses for which I gave an
uniform coat, a pair of legings, a few handkerchiefs, three knives and
some other small articles the whole of which did not cost more than
about 20$ in the U States. the Indians seemed quite as well pleased
with their bargin as I was. the men also purchased one for an old
checked shirt a pair of old legings and a knife. two of those I
purchased Capt. C. took on with him. at 10 A.M. Capt. Clark departed
with his detatchment and all the Indians except 2 men and 2 women who
remained with us. Two of the inferior chiefs were a little displeased
at not having received a present equivolent to that given the first
Chief. to releive this difficulty Capt. Clark bestoed a couple of his
old coats on them and I promised that if they wer active in assisting
me over the mountains with horses that I would give them an additional
present; this seemed perfectly to satisfy them and they all set out in
a good humour. Capt. Clark encamped this evening near the narrow pass
between the hills on Jefferson's river in the Shoshone Cove. his
hunters killed one deer which the party with the aid of the Indians
readily consumed in the course of the evening.--after there departure
this morning I had all the stores and baggage of every discription
opened and aired. and began the operation of forming the packages in
proper parsels for the purpose of transporting them on horseback. the
rain in the evening compelled me to desist from my operations. I had
the raw hides put in the water in order to cut them in throngs proper
for lashing the packages and forming the necessary geer for pack
horses, a business which I fortunately had not to learn on this
occasion. Drewyer Killed one deer this evening. a beaver was also
caught by one of the party. I had the net arranged and set this evening
to catch some trout which we could see in great abundance at the bottom
of the river. This day I completed my thirty first year, and conceived
that I had in all human probability now existed about half the period
which I am to remain in this Sublunary world. I reflected that I had as
yet done but little, very little indeed, to further the hapiness of the
human race, or to advance the information of the succeeding generation.
I viewed with regret the many hours I have spent in indolence, and now
soarly feel the want of that information which those hours would have
given me had they been judiciously expended. but since they are past
and cannot be recalled, I dash from me the gloomy thought and resolved
in future, to redouble my exertions and at least indeavour to promote
those two primary objects of human existence, by giving them the aid of
that portion of talents which nature and fortune have bestoed on me; or
in future, to live for mankind, as I have heretofore lived for myself.
[Clark, August 18, 1805]
August 18th Sunday 1805
Purchased of the Indians three horses for which we gave a Chiefs Coat
Some Handkerchiefs a Shirt Legins & a fiew arrow points &c. I gave two
of my coats to two of the under Chiefs who appeared not well Satisfied
that the first Chief was dressed so much finer than themselves. at 10
oClock I Set out accompanied by the Indians except 3 the interpreter
and wife, the fore part of the day worm, at 12 oClock it became hasey
with a mist of rain wind hard from the S. W. and Cold which increased
untill night the rain Seased in about two hours. We proceeded on thro a
wide leavel vallie without wood except willows & Srubs for 15 miles and
Encamped at a place the high lands approach within 200 yards in 2
points the River here only 10 yards wide Several Small Streams
branching out on each Side below. all the Indians proceeded on except
the 3 Chiefs & two young men. my hunters killed two Deer which we eate.
The Course from the forks is West 9 miles N. 60° W. 6 miles. The Laid. of
the forks agreeable to observations is 43° 30' 43" North-
[Lewis, August 19, 1805]
Monday August 19th 1805.
This morning I arrose at dylight. and sent out three hunters. some of
the men who were much in want of legings and mockersons I suffered to
dress some skins. the others I employed in repacking the baggage,
making pack saddles &c. we took up the net this morning but caugt no
fish. one beaver was caught in a trap. the frost which perfectly
whitened the grass this morning had a singular appearance to me at this
season. this evening I made a few of the men construct a sein of willow
brush which we hawled and caught a large number of fine trout and a
kind of mullet about 16 Inhes long which I had not seen before. the
scales are small, the nose is long and obtusely pointed and exceedes
the under jaw. the mouth is not large but opens with foalds at the
sides, the colour of it's back and sides is of a bluish brown and
belley white; it has the faggot bones, from which I have supposed it to
be of the mullet kind. the tongue and pallate are smooth and it has no
teeth. it is by no means as good as the trout. the trout are the same
which I first met with at the falls of the Missouri, they are larger
than the speckled trout of our mountains and equally as well flavored.-
The hunters returned this evening with two deer. from what has been
said of the Shoshones it will be readily perceived that they live in a
wretched stait of poverty. yet notwithstanding their extreem poverty
they are not only cheerfull but even gay, fond of gaudy dress and
amusements; like most other Indians they are great egotists and
frequently boast of heroic acts which they never performed. they are
also fond of games of wrisk. they are frank, communicative, fair in
dealing, generous with the little they possess, extreemly honest, and
by no means beggarly. each individual is his own sovereign master, and
acts from the dictates of his own mind; the authority of the Cheif
being nothing more than mere admonition supported by the influence
which the propiety of his own examplery conduct may have acquired him
in the minds of the individuals who compose the band. the title of
cheif is not hereditary, nor can I learn that there is any cerimony of
instalment, or other epoh in the life of a Cheif from which his title
as such can be dated. in fact every man is a chief, but all have not an
equal influence on the minds of the other members of the community, and
he who happens to enjoy the greatest share of confidence is the
principal Chief. The Shoshonees may be estimated at about 100 warriors,
and about three times that number of woomen and children. they have
more children among them than I expected to have seen among a people
who procure subsistence with such difficulty. there are but few very
old persons, nor did they appear to treat those with much tenderness or
rispect. The man is the sole propryetor of his wives and daughters, and
can barter or dispose of either as he thinks proper. a plurality of
wives is common among them, but these are not generally sisters as with
the Minnetares & Mandans but are purchased of different fathers. The
father frequently disposes of his infant daughters in marriage to men
who are grown or to men who have sons for whom they think proper to
provide wives. the compensation given in such cases usually consists of
horses or mules which the father receives at the time of contract and
converts to his own uce. the girl remains with her parents untill she
is conceived to have obtained the age of puberty which with them is
considered to be about the age of 13 or 14 years. the female at this
age is surrendered to her sovereign lord and husband agreeably to
contract, and with her is frequently restored by the father quite as
much as he received in the first instance in payment for his daughter;
but this is discretionary with the father. Sah-car-gar-we-ah had been
thus disposed of before she was taken by the Minnetares, or had arrived
to the years of puberty. the husband was yet living and with this band.
he was more than double her age and had two other wives. he claimed her
as his wife but said that as she had had a child by another man, who
was Charbono, that he did not want her. They seldom correct their
children particularly the boys who soon become masters of their own
acts. they give as a reason that it cows and breaks the Sperit of the
boy to whip him, and that he never recovers his independence of mind
after he is grown. They treat their women but with little rispect, and
compel them to perform every species of drudgery. they collect the wild
fruits and roots, attend to the horses or assist in that duty cook
dreess the skins and make all their apparal, collect wood and make
their fires, arrange and form their lodges, and when they travel pack
the horses and take charge of all the baggage; in short the man dose
little else except attend his horses hunt and fish. the man considers
himself degraded if he is compelled to walk any distance, and if he is
so unfortunately poor as only to possess two horses he rides the best
himself and leavs the woman or women if he has more than one, to
transport their baggage and children on the other, and to walk if the
horse is unable to carry the additional weight of their persons--the
chastity of their women is not held in high estimation, and the husband
will for a trifle barter the companion of his bead for a night or
longer if he conceives the reward adiquate; tho they are not so
importunate that we should caress their women as the siouxs were and
some of their women appear to be held more sacred than in any nation we
have seen I have requested the men to give them no cause of jealousy by
having connection with their women without their knowledge, which with
them strange as it may seem is considered as disgracefull to the
husband as clandestine connections of a similar kind are among
civilized nations. to prevent this mutual exchange of good officies
altogether I know it impossible to effect, particularly on the part of
our young men whom some months abstinence have made very polite to
those tawney damsels. no evil has yet resulted and I hope will not from
these connections.--notwithstanding the late loss of horses which this
people sustained by the Minnetares the stock of the band may be very
safely estimated at seven hundred of which they are perhaps about 40
coalts and half that number of mules.these people are deminutive in
stature, thick ankles, crooked legs, thick flat feet and in short but
illy formed, at least much more so in general than any nation of
Indians I ever saw. their complexion is much that of the Siouxs or
darker than the Minnetares mandands or Shawnees. generally both men and
women wear their hair in a loos lank flow over the sholders and face;
tho I observed some few men who confined their hair in two equal cues
hanging over each ear and drawnn in front of the body. the cue is
formed with throngs of dressed lather or Otterskin aternately crossing
each other. at present most of them have cut short in the neck in
consequence of the loss of their relations by the Minnetares.
Cameahwait has his cut close all over his head. this constitutes their
cerimony of morning for their deceased relations. the dress of the men
consists of a robe long legings, shirt, tippet and Mockersons, that of
the women is also a robe, chemise, and Mockersons; sometimes they make
use of short legings. the ornements of both men and women are very
similar, and consist of several species of sea shells, blue and white
beads, bras and Iron arm bands, plaited cords of the sweet grass, and
collars of leather ornamented with the quills of the porcupine dyed of
various colours among which I observed the red, yellow, blue, and
black. the ear is purforated in the lower part to receive various
ornaments but the nose is not, nor is the ear lasserated or disvigored
for this purpose as among many nations. the men never mark their skins
by birning, cuting, nor puncturing and introducing a colouring matter
as many nations do. there women sometimes puncture a small circle on
their forehead nose or cheeks and thus introduce a black matter usually
soot and grease which leaves an indelible stane. tho this even is by no
means common. their arms offensive and defensive consist in the bow and
arrows sheild, some lances, and a weapon called by the Cippeways who
formerly used it, the pog-gal'-mag-gon'. in fishing they employ wairs,
gigs, and fishing hooks. the salmon is the principal object of their
pursuit. they snair wolves and foxes. I was anxious to learn whether
these people had the venerial, and made the enquiry through the
intrepreter and his wife; the information was that they sometimes had
it but I could not learn their remedy; they most usually die with it's
effects. this seems a strong proof that these disorders bothe
gonaroehah and Louis venerae are native disorders of America. tho these
people have suffered much by the small pox which is known to be
imported and perhaps those other disorders might have been contracted
from other indian tribes who by a round of communication might have
obtained from the Europeans since it was introduced into that quarter
of the globe. but so much detatched on the other had from all
communication with the whites that I think it most probable that those
disorders are original with them. from the middle of May to the firt of
September these people reside on the waters of the Columbia where they
consider themselves in perfect security from their enimies as they have
not as yet ever found their way to this retreat; during this season the
salmon furnish the principal part of their subsistence and as this
firsh either perishes or returns about the 1st of September they are
compelled at this season in surch of subsistence to resort to the
Missouri, in the vallies of which, there is more game even within the
mountains. here they move slowly down the river in order to collect and
join other bands either of their own nation or the Flatheads, and
having become sufficiently strong as they conceive venture on the
Eastern side of the Rockey mountains into the plains, where the
buffaloe abound. but they never leave the interior of the mountains
while they can obtain a scanty subsistence, and always return as soon
as they have acquired a good stock of dryed meat in the plains; when
this stock is consumed they venture again into the plains; thus
alternately obtaining their food at the risk of their lives and
retiring to the mountains, while they consume it.--These people are now
on the eve of their departure for the Missouri, and inform us that they
expect to be joined at or about the three forks by several bands of
their own nation, and a band of the Flatheads. as I am now two busily
engaged to enter at once into a minute discription of the several
articles which compose their dress, impliments of war hunting fishing
&c I shall pursue them at my leasure in the order they have here
occurred to my mind, and have been mentioned. This morning capt. Clark
continued his rout with his party, the Indians accompanying him as
yesterday; he was obliged to feed them. nothing remarkable happened
during the day. he was met by an Indian with two mules on this side of
the dividing ridge at the foot of the mountain, the Indian had the
politeness to offer Capt. C. one of his mules to ride as he was on
foot, which he accepted and gave the fellow a waistcoat as a reward for
his politeness. in the evening he reached the creek on this side of the
Indian camp and halted for the night. his hunters killed nothing today.
The Indians value their mules very highly. a good mule can not be
obtained for less than three and sometimes four horses, and the most
indifferent are rated at two horses. their mules generally are the
finest I ever saw without any comparison.--today I observed time and
distance of sun's and moon's nearest limbs with sextant sun East.
[Clark, August 19, 1805]
August 19th Monday 1805
A verry Cold morning Frost to be Seen we Set out at 7 oClock and
proceeded on thro a wide leavel Vallie the Chief Shew me the place that
a number of his nation was killed about 1 years past this Vallie
Continues 5 miles & then becoms narrow, the beaver has Darned up the
River in maney places we proceeded on up the main branch with a gradial
assent to the head and passed over a low mountain and Decended a Steep
Decent to a butifull Stream, passed over a Second hill of a verry Steep
assent & thro a hilley Countrey for 8 miles an Encamped on a Small
Stream the Indians with us we wer oblige to feed--one man met one with
a mule & Spanish Saddle to ride, I gave him a wistoat a mule is
considered a of great value among those people we proceeded on over a
verry mountanious Countrey across the head of hollows & Springs
[Lewis, August 20, 1805]
Tuesday August 20th 1805.
This morning I sent out the two hunters and employed the ballance of
the party pretty much as yesterday. I walked down the river about--3/4
of a mile and scelected a place near the river bank unperceived by the
Indians for a cash, which I set three men to make, and directed the
centinel to discharge his gun if he pereceived any of the Indians going
down in that direction which was to be the signal for the men at work
on the cash to desist and seperate, least these people should discover
our deposit and rob us of the baggage we intend leaving here. by
evening the cash was completed unperceived by the Indians, and all our
packages made up. the Pack-saddles and harries is not yet complete. in
this operation we find ourselves at a loss for nails and boards; for
the first we substitute throngs of raw hide which answer verry well,
and for the last to cut off the blades of our oars and use the plank of
some boxes which have heretofore held other articles and put those
articles into sacks of raw hide which I have had made for the purpose.
by this means I have obtained as many boards as will make 20 saddles
which I suppose will be sufficient for our present exegencies. The
Indians with us behave themselves extreemly well; the women have been
busily engaged all day making and mending the mockersons of our party.
In the evening the hunters returned unsuccessfull. Drewyer went in
search of his trap which a beaver had taken off last night; he found
the beaver dead with the trap to his foot about 2 miles below the place
he had set it. this beaver constituted the whole of the game taken
today. the fur of this animal is as good as I ever saw any, and beleive
that they are never out of season on the upper part of the Missouri and
it's branches within the Mountains. Goodrich caught several douzen fine
trout. today. I made up a small assortment of medicines, together with
the specemines of plants, minerals, seeds &c. which, I have collected
betwen this place and the falls of the Missouri which I shall deposit
here. the robe woarn by the Shoshonees is the same in both sexes and is
loosly thrown about their sholders, and the sides at pleasure either
hanging loose or drawn together with the hands, sometimes if the
weather is cold they confine it with a girdel arround the waist; they
are generally about the size of a 21/2 point blanket for grown persons
and reach as low as the middle of the leg. this robe forms a garment in
the day and constitutes their only covering at night. with these people
the robe is formed most commonly of the skins of Antelope, Bighorn, or
deer, dressed with the hair on, tho they prefer the buffaloe when they
can procure them. I have also observed some robes among them of beaver,
moonax, and small wolves. the summer robes of both sexes are also
frequently made of the Elk's skin dressed without the hair. The shirt
of the men is really a commodious and decent garment. it roomy and
reaches nearly half way the thye, there is no collar, the apperture
being sufficiently large to admit the head and is left square at top,
or most frequently, both before and behind terminate in the tails of
the animals of which they are made and which foald outwards being
frequently left entire or somtimes cut into a fring on the edges and
ornimented with the quills of the Porcupine. the sides of the shirt are
sewed deeply fringed, and ornamented in a similar manner from the
bottom upwards, within six or eight inches of the sieve from whence it
is left open as well as the sieve on it's under side to the elbow
nearly. from the elbow the sieve fits the arm tight as low as the wrist
and is not ornimented with a fringe as the sides and under parts of the
sieve are above the elbow. the sholder straps are wide and on them is
generally displayed the taste of the manufacterer in a variety of
figures wrought with the quills of the porcupine of several colours;
beads when they have them are also displayed on this part. the tail of
the shirt is left in the form which the fore legs and neck give it with
the addition of a slight fringe. the hair is usually left on the tail,
& near the hoofs of the animal; part of the hoof is also retained to
the skin and is split into a fring by way of orniment. these shirts are
generally made of deer's Antelope's, Bighorn's, or Elk's skins dressed
without the hair. the Elk skin is less used for this purpose than
either of the others. their only thread used on this or any other
occasion is the sinews taken from the back and loins of the deer Elk
buffaloe &c. Their legings are most usually formed of the skins of the
Antelope dressed without the hair. in the men they are very long and
full each leging being formed of a skin nearly entire. the legs, tail
and neck are also left on these, and the tail woarn upwards; and the
neck deeply fringed and ornimented with porcupine qulls drags or trails
on the ground behind the heel. the skin is sewn in such manner as to
fit the leg and thye closely; the upper part being left open a
sufficient distance to permit the legs of the skin to be dran
underneath a girdle both before and behind, and the wide part of the
skin to cover the buttock and lap before in such manner that the
breechcloth is unnecessary. they are much more decent in concealing
those parts than any nation on the Missouri the sides of the legings
are also deeply fringed and ornimented. sometimes this part is
ornimented with little fassicles of the hair of an enimy whom they have
slain in battle. The tippet of the Snake Indians is the most eligant
peice of Indian dress I ever saw, the neck or collar of this is formed
of a strip of dressed Otter skin with the fur. it is about four or five
inches wide and is cut out of the back of the skin the nose and eyes
forming one extremity and the tail the other. begining a little behind
the ear of the animal at one edge of this collar and proceeding towards
the tail, they attatch from one to two hundred and fifty little roles
of Ermin skin formed in the following manner. the skin is first dressed
with the fur on it and a narrow strip is cut out of the back of the
skin reaching from the nose and imbracing the tail. this is sewed
arround a small cord of the silk-grass twisted for the purpose and
regularly tapering in such manner as to give it ajust proportion to the
tail which is to form the lower extremity of the stran. thus arranged
they are confined at the upper point in little bundles of two-three, or
more as the disign may be to make them more full; these are then
attatched to the collars as before mentioned, and to conceal the
connection of this part which would otherwise have a course appearance
they attatch a broad fringe of the Ermin skin to the collar overlaying
that part. little bundles of fine fringe of the same materials is
fastened to the extremity of the tails in order to shew their black
extremities to greater advantage. the center of the otterskin collar is
also ornamented with the shells of the perl oister. the collar is
confined arond the neck and the little roles of Ermin skin about the
size of a large quill covers the solders and body nearly to the waist
and has the appearance of a short cloak and is really handsome. these
they esteem very highly, and give or dispose of only on important
occasions. the ermin whic is known to the traiders of the N. W. by the
name of the white weasel is the genuine ermine, and might no doubt be
turned to great advantage by those people if they would encourage the
Indians to take them. they are no doubt extreemly plenty and readily
taken, from the number of these tippets which I have seen among these
people and the great number of skins employed in the construction of
each timppet. scarcely any of them have employed less than one hundred
of these skins in their formation.--This morning Capt. Clark set out at
6 in the morning and soon after arrived near their camp they having
removed about 2 miles higher up the river than the camp at which they
were when I first visited them. the chief requested a halt, which was
complyed with, and a number of the indians came out from the village
and joined them after smoking a few pipes with them they all proceeded
to the village where Capt C. was conducted to a large lodge prepared in
the center of the encampment for himself and party. here they gave him
one salmon and some cakes of dryed berries. he now repeated to them
what had been said to them in council at this place which was repeated
to the village by the Cheif. when he had concluded this address he
requested a guide to accompany him down the river and an elderly man
was pointed out by the Cheif who consented to undertake this task. this
was the old man of whom Cameahwait had spoken as a person well
acquainted with the country to the North of this river. Capt. C.
encouraged the Indians to come over with their horses and assist me
over with the baggage. he distrubuted some presents among the Indians.
about half the men of the village turned out to hunt the antelope but
were unsuccessfull. at 3 P.M. Capt. Clark departed, accompanyed by his
guide and party except one man whom he left with orders to purchase a
horse if possible and overtake him as soon as he could. he left
Charbono and the indian woman to return to my camp with the Indians. he
passed the river about four miles below the Indians, and encamped on a
small branch, eight miles distant. on his way he met a rispectable
looking indian who returned and continued with him all night; this
indian gave them three salmon. Capt. C. killed a cock of the plains or
mountain cock. it was of a dark brown colour with a long and pointed
tail larger than the dunghill fowl and had a fleshey protuberant
substance about the base of the upper chap, something like that of the
turkey tho without the snout.
[Clark, August 20, 1805]
August 20th Tuesday 1805
Set out at half past 6 oClock and proceeded on (met maney parties of
Indians) thro a hilley Countrey to the Camp of the Indians on a branch
of the Columbia River, before we entered this Camp a Serimonious hault
was requested by the Chief and I Smoked with all that Came around for
Several pipes, we then proceeded on to the Camp & I was introduced into
the only Lodge they had which was pitched in the Center for my party
all the other Lodges made of bushes, after a fiew Indian Seremonies I
informed the Indians the object of our journey our good intentions
towards them my consern for their distressed Situation, what we had
done for them in makeing a piece with the Minitarras Mandans Rickara
&c. for them-. and requested them all to take over their horses &
assist Capt Leiwis across &c. also informing them the oject of my
journey down the river and requested a guide to accompany me, all of
which was repeited by the Chief to the whole village.
Those pore people Could only raise a Sammon & a little dried Choke
Cherris for us half the men of the tribe with the Chief turned out to
hunt the antilopes, at 3 oClock after giveing a fiew Small articles as
presents I set out accompanied by an old man as a Guide (I endevered to
procure as much information from thos people as possible without much
Suckcess they being but little acquainted or effecting to be So-) I lef
one man to purchase a horse and overtake me and proceeded on thro a
wide rich bottom on a beaten Roade 8 miles Crossed the river and
encamped on a Small run, this evening passed a number of old lodges,
and met a number of men women children & horses, met a man who appeared
of Some Consideration who turned back with us, he halted a woman & gave
us 3 Small Sammon, this man continued with me all night and partook of
what I had which was a little Pork verry Salt. Those Indians are verry
attentive to Strangers &c. I left our interpreter & his woman to
accompany the Indians to Capt Lewis tomorrow the Day they informed me
they would Set out I killed a Pheasent at the Indian Camp larger than a
dungal fowl with feshey protuberances about the head like a turkey.
Frost last night
[Lewis, August 21, 1805]
Wednesday August 21st 1805.
This morning was very cold. the ice 1/4 of an inch thick on the water
which stood in the vessels exposed to the air. some wet deerskins that
had been spread the grass last evening are stiffly frozen. the ink
feizes in my pen. the bottoms are perfectly covered with frost insomuch
that they appear to be covered with snow. This morning early I
dispatched two hunters to kill some meat if possible before the Indians
arrive; Drewyer I sent with the horse into the cove for that purpose.
The party pursued their several occupations as yesterday. by evening I
had all the baggage, saddles, and harness completely ready for a march.
after dark, I made the men take the baggage to the cash and deposit it.
I beleve we have been unperceived by the Indians in this movement.
notwithstanding the coldness of the last night the day has proved
excessively warm. neither of the hunters returned this evening and I
was obliged to issue pork and corn. The mockersons of both sexes are
usually the same and are made of deer Elk or buffaloe skin dressed
without the hair. sometimes in the winter they make them of buffaloe
skin dressed with the hair on and turn the hair inwards as the Mandans
Minetares and most of the nations do who inhabit the buffaloe country.
the mockerson is formed with one seem on the outer edge of the foot is
cut open at the instep to admit the foot and sewed up behind. in this
rispect they are the same with the Mandans. they sometimes ornament
their mockersons with various figures wrought with the quills of the
Porcupine. some of the dressey young men orniment the tops of their
mockersons with the skins of polecats and trale the tail of that animal
on the ground at their heels as they walk.the robe of the woman is
generally smaller than that of the man but is woarn in the same manner
over the sholders. the Chemise is roomy and comes down below the middle
of the leg the upper part of this garment is formed much like the shirt
of the men except the sholder strap which is never used with the
Chemise. in women who give suck, they are left open at the sides nearly
as low as the waist, in others, close as high as the sleeve. the sleeve
underneath as low as the elbow is open, that part being left very full.
the sides tail and upper part of the sleeves are deeply fringed and
sometimes ornimented in a similar manner with the shirts of the men
with the addition of little patches of red cloth about the tail edged
around with beads. the breast is usually ornament with various figures
of party colours rought with the quills of the Porcupine. it is on this
part of the garment that they appear to exert their greatest ingenuity.
a girdle of dressed leather confines the Chemise around the waist. when
either the man or woman wish to disengage their arm from the sleeve
they draw it out by means of the opening underneath the arm an throw
the sleeve behind the body. the legings of the women reach as high as
the knee and are confined with a garter below. the mockerson covers and
confins it's lower extremity. they are neither fringed nor ornamented.
these legings are made of the skins of the antelope and the Chemise
usually of those of the large deer Bighorn and the smallest elk.--They
seldom wear the beads they possess about their necks at least I have
never seen a grown person of either sex wear them on this part; some
their children are seen with them in this way. the men and women were
them suspen from the ear in little bunches or intermixed with
triangular peices of the shells of the perl oister. the men also were
them attached in a similar manner to the hare of the fore part of the
crown of the head; to which they sometimes make the addition of the
wings and tails of birds. the nose in neither sex is pierced nor do
they wear any ornament in it. they have a variety of small sea shells
of which they form collars woarn indiscriminately by both sexes. these
as well as the shell of the perl oister they value very highly and
inform us that they obtain them from their friends and relations who
live beyond the barren plain towards the Ocean in a S. Westerly
direction. these friends of theirs they say inhabit a good country
abounding with Elk, deer, bear, and Antelope, and possess a much
greater number of horses and mules than they do themselves; or using
their own figure that their horses and mules are as numerous as the
grass of the plains. the warriors or such as esteem themselves brave
men wear collars made of the claws of the brown bear which are also
esteemed of great value and are preserved with great care. these claws
are ornamented with beads about the thick end near which they are
peirced through their sides and strung on a throng of dressed leather
and tyed about the neck commonly with the upper edge of the tallon next
the breast or neck but sometimes are reversed. it is esteemed by them
an act of equal celebrity the killing one of these bear or an enimy,
and with the means they have of killing this animal it must really be a
serious undertaking. the sweet sented grass which grows very abundant
on this river is either twisted or plaited and woarn around the neck in
ether sex, but most commonly by the men. they have a collar also woarn
by either sex. it generally round and about the size of a man's finger;
formed of leather or silk-grass twisted or firmly rolled and covered
with the quills of the porcupine of different colours. the tusks of the
Elk are pierced strung on a throng and woarn as an orniment for the
neck, and is most generally woarn by the women and children. the men
frequently wear the skin of a fox or a broad strip of that of the otter
around the forehead and head in form of a bando. they are also fond of
the feathers of the tail of the beautifull eagle or callumet birds with
which they ornament their own hair and the tails and mains of their
horses. The dress of these people is quite as desent and convenient as
that of any nation of Indians I ever saw.
This morning early Capt. C. resumed his march; at the distance of five
miles he arrived at some brush lodges of the Shoshones inhabited by
about seven families here he halted and was very friendly received by
these people, who gave himself and party as much boiled salmon as they
could eat; they also gave him several dryed salmon and a considerable
quantity of dryed chokecherries. after smoking with them he visited
their fish wear which was abut 200 yds. distant. he found the wear
extended across four channels of the river which was here divided by
three small islands. three of these channels were narrow, and were
stoped by means of trees fallen across, supported by which stakes of
willow were driven down sufficiently near each other to prevent the
salmon from passing. about the center of each a cilindric basket of
eighteen or 20 feet in length terminating in a conic shape at it's
lower extremity, formed of willows, was opposed to a small apperture in
the wear with it's mouth up stream to receive the fish. the main
channel of the water was conducted to this basket, which was so narrow
at it's lower extremity that the fish when once in could not turn
itself about, and were taken out by untying the small ends of the
longitudinal willows, which frormed the hull of the basket. the wear in
the main channel was somewhat differently contrived. there were two
distinct wears formed of poles and willow sticks, quite across the
river, at no great distance from each other. each of these, were
furnished with two baskets; the one wear to take them ascending and the
other in decending. in constructing these wears, poles were first tyed
together in parcels of three near the smaller extremity; these were set
on end, and spread in a triangular form at the base, in such manner,
that two of the three poles ranged in the direction of the intended
work, and the third down the stream. two ranges of horizontal poles
were next lashed with willow bark and wythes to the ranging poles, and
on these willow sticks were placed perpendicularly, reaching from the
bottom of the river to about 3 or four feet above it's surface; and
placed so near each other, as not to permit the passage of the fish,
and even so thick in some parts, as with the help of gravel and stone
to give a direction to the water which they wished.--the baskets were
the same in form of the others. this is the form of the work, and
disposition of the baskets.
After examining the wears Capt. C. returned to the lodges, and shortly
continued his rout and passed the river to the Lard. side a little
distance below the wears. he sent Collins with an Indian down the Lard.
side of the river to the forks 5 me. in surch of Cruzatte who was left
at the upper camp yesterday to purchase a horse and had followed on
today and passed them by another road while they were at the lodges and
had gone on to the forks. while Capt. Clark was at these lodges an
Indian brought him a tomehawk which he said he found in the grass near
the lodge where I had staid at the upper camp when I was first with his
nation the tommahawk was Drewyer's he missed it in the morning before
we had set out and surched for it but it was not to be found I beleive
the young fellow stole it, but if he did it is the only article they
have pilfered and this was now returned. Capt. C. after traveling about
20 miles through the valley with the course of the river nearly N. W.
encamped on the Stard. side in a small bottom under a high Clift of
rocks. on his way one of the party killed a very large Salmon in a
creek which they passed at the distance of 14 ms. he was joined this
evening by Cruzatte and Collins who brought with them five fresh salmon
which had been given them by the Indians at the forks. the forks of
this river is famous as a gig fishery and is much resorted by the
natives.--They killed one deer today. The Guide apeared to be a very
friendly intelligent old man, Capt. C. is much pleased with him.
[Clark, August 21, 1805]
August 21st Wednesday 1805
Frost last night proceeded on with the Indians I met about 5 miles to
there Camp, I entered a lodge and after Smokeing with all who Came
about me I went to See the place those people take the fish, a wear
across the Creek in which there is Stuk baskets Set in different
derections So as to take the fish either decending or assending on my
return to the Camp which was 200 yards only the different lodges (which
is only bushes) brought in to the lodge I was introduced into, Sammon
boiled, and dried Choke Chers. Sufficent for all my party.--one man
brought me a tomahawk which we expected they had Stolen from a man of
Capt Lewis's party, this man informed me he found the tomk in the grass
near the place the man Slept. Crossed the River and went over a point
of high land & Struck it again near a Bluff on the right Side the man I
left to get a horse at the upper Camp missed me & went to the forks
which is about five miles below the last Camp.
I sent one man by the forks with derections to join me to night with
the one now at that place, those two men joined me at my Camp on the
right Side below the 1st Clift with 5 Sammon which the Indians gave
them at the forks, the place they gig fish at this Season. Their method
of takeing fish with a gig or bone is with a long pole, about a foot
from one End is a Strong String attached to the pole, this String is a
little more than a foot long and is tied to the middle of a bone from 4
to 6 inches long, one end Sharp the other with a whole to fasten on the
end of the pole with a beard to the large end, the fasten this bone on
one end & with the other, feel for the fish & turn and Strike them So
hard that the bone passes through and Catches on the opposit Side,
Slips off the End of the pole and holds the Center of the bone Those
Indians are mild in their disposition appear Sincere in their
friendship, punctial, and decided. kind with what they have, to Spare.
They are excessive pore, nothing but horses there Enemies which are
noumerous on account of there horses & Defenceless Situation, have
Deprived them of tents and all the Small Conveniances of life. They
have only a few indifferent Knives, no ax, make use of Elk's horn
Sharpened to Spit ther wood, no clothes except a Short Legins & robes
of different animals, Beaver, Bear, Buffalow, wolf Panthor, Ibex, Sheep
Deer, but most commonly the antilope Skins which they ware loosely
about them--Their ornements are Orter Skin dcurated with See Shells &
the Skins & tales of the white weasel, Sea Shels of different size hung
to their Ears hair and breast of their Shirts, beeds of Shells platted
grass, and Small Strings of otter Skin dressed, they are fond of our
trinkets, and give us those ornements as the most valueable of their
possession. The women are held Sacred and appear to have an equal Shere
in all Conversation, which is not the Case in any othe nation I have
Seen. their boeys & Girls are also admited to Speak except in Councils,
the women doe all the drugery except fishing and takeing care of the
horses, which the men apr. to take upon themselves.--The men ware the
hair loose flowing over ther Sholders & face the women Cut Short,
orniments of the back bones of fish Strung plated grass grains of Corn
Strung Feathers and orniments of Birds Claws of the Bear encurcling
their necks the most Sacred of all the orniments of this nation is the
Sea Shells of various Sizes and Shapes and colours, of the bassterd
perl kind, which they inform us they get from the Indians to the South
on the other Side of a large fork of this river in passing to which
they have to pass thro Sandy & barron open plains without water to
which place they can travel in 15 or 20 days--The men who passed by the
forks informed me that the S W. fork was double the Size of the one I
came down, and I observed that it was a handsom river at my camp I
shall injustice to Capt Lewis who was the first white man ever on this
fork of the Columbia Call this Louis's river. one Deer killed this
morning, and a Sammon in the last Creek 21/2 feet long The Westerley
fork of the Columbia River is double the Size of the Easterley fork &
below those forks the river is about the Size Jeffersons River near its
mouth or 100 yards wide, it is verry rapid & Sholey water Clear but
little timber. This Clift is of a redish brown Colour the rocks which
fall from it is a dark brown flint tinged with that Colour. Some
Gullies of white Sand Stone and Sand fine & as white as Snow. The
mountains on each Side are high, and those on the East ruged & Contain
a fiew Scattering pine, those on the West contain pine on ther tops &
high up the hollows--The bottoms of this is wide & rich from some
distance above the place I struck the East fork they are also wide on
the East Passed a large Creek which fall in on the right Side 6 miles
below the forks a road passes up this Creek & to the Missouri.
[Lewis, August 22, 1805]
Thursday August 22ed 1805
This morning early I sent a couple of men to complete the covering of
the cash which could not be done well last night in the dark, they soon
accomplished their work and returned. late last night Drewyer returned
with a fawn he had killed and a considerable quantity of Indian
plunder. the anecdote with rispect to the latter is perhaps worthy of
relation. he informed me that while hunting in the Cove yesterday about
12 OCk. he came suddonly upon an Indian Camp, at which there were a
young man an Old man a boy and three women, that they seemed but little
supprised at seeing him and he rode up to them and dismounted turning
horse out to graize. these people had just finished their repast on
some roots, he entered into conversation with them by signs, and after
about 20 minutes one of the women spoke to the others of the party and
they all went immediately and collected their horses brought them to
camp and saddled them at this moment he thought he would also set out
and continue his hunt, and accorgingly walked to catch his horse at
some little distance and neglected to take up his gun which, he left at
camp. the Indians perceiving him at the distance of fifty paces
immediately mounted their horses, the young man took the gun and the
whole of them left their baggage and laid whip to their horses
directing their course to the pass of the mountains. finding himself
deprived of his gun he immediately mounted his horse and pursued; after
runing them about 10 miles the horses of two of the women nearly gave
out and the young fellow with the gun from their frequent crys
slackened his pace and being on a very fleet horse road around the
women at a little distance at length Drewer overtook the women and by
signs convinced them that he did not wish to hirt them they then halted
and the young fellow approached still nearer, he asked him for his gun
but the only part of the answer which he could understand was pah kee
which he knew to be the name by which they called their enimies.
watching his opportunity when the fellow was off his guard he suddonly
rode along side of him seized his gun and wrest her out of his hands.
the fellow finding Drewyer too strong for him and discovering that he
must yeald the gun had pesents of mind to open the pan and cast the
priming before he let the gun escape from his hands; now finding
himself devested of the gun he turned his horse about and laid whip
leaving the women to follow him as well as they could. Drewyer now
returned to the place they had left their baggage and brought it with
him to my camp. it consisted of several dressed and undressed skins; a
couple of bags wove with the fingers of the bark of the silk-grass
containing each about a bushel of dryed service berries some checherry
cakes and about a bushel of roots of three different kinds dryed and
prepared for uce which were foalded in as many parchment hides of
buffaloe. some flint and the instrument of bone for manufactureing the
flint into arrow points. some of this flint was as transparent as the
common black glass and much of the same colour easily broken, and
flaked off much like glass leaving a very sharp edge. one speceis of
the roots were fusiform abot six inches long and about the size of a
man's finger at the larger end tapering to a small point. the radicles
larger than in most fusiform roots. the rind was white and thin. the
body or consistence of the root was white mealy and easily reduced by
pounding to a substance resembleing flour which thickens with boiling
water something like flour and is agreeably flavored. this rout is
frequently eaten by the Indians either green or in it's dryed state
without the preparation of boiling. another speceis was much mutilated
but appeared to be fibrous; the parts were brittle, hard of the size of
a small quill, cilindric and as white as snow throughout, except some
small parts of the hard black rind which they had not seperated in the
preperation. this the Indians with me informed were always boiled for
use. I made the exprement, found that they became perfectly soft by
boiling, but had a very bitter taste, which was naucious to my pallate,
and I transfered them to the Indians who had eat them heartily. a third
speceis were about the size of a nutmeg, and of an irregularly rounded
form, something like the smallest of the Jerusalem artichoke, which
they also resemble in every other appearance. they had become very hard
by being dryed these I also boiled agreeably to the instruction of the
Indians and found them very agreeable. they resemble the Jerusalem
Artichoke very much in their flavor and I thought them preferable,
however there is some allowance to be made for the length of time I
have now been without vegitable food to which I was always much
attatched. these are certainly the best root I have yet seen in uce
among the Indians. I asked the Indians to shew me the plant of which
these roots formed a part but they informed me that neither of them
grew near this place. I had set most of the men at work today to dress
the deerskin belonging to those who had gone on command with Capt.
Clark. at 11 A.M. Charbono the Indian Woman, Cameahwait and about 50
men with a number of women and children arrived. they encamped near us.
after they had turned out their horses and arranged their camp I called
the Cheifs and warriors together and addressed them a second time; gave
them some further presents, particularly the second and third Cheifs
who it appeared had agreeably to their promise exerted themselves in my
favour. having no fresh meat and these poor devils half starved I had
previously prepared a good meal for them all of boiled corn and beans
which I gave them as soon as the council was over and I had distributed
the presents. this was thankfully received by them. the Chief wished
that his nation could live in a country where they could provide such
food. I told him that it would not be many years before the whitemen
would put it in the power of his nation to live in the country below
the mountains where they might cultivate corn beans and squashes. he
appeared much pleased with the information. I gave him a few dryed
squashes which we had brought from the Mandans he had them boiled and
declared them to be the best thing he had ever tasted except sugar, a
small lump of which it seems his sister Sah-cah-gar Wea had given him.
late in the evening I made the men form a bush drag, and with it in
about 2 hours they caught 528 very good fish, most of them large trout.
among them I now for the first time saw ten or a douzen of a whte
speceis of trout. they are of a silvery colour except on the back and
head, where they are of a bluish cast. the scales are much larger than
the speckled trout, but in their form position of their fins teeth
mouth &c they are precisely like them they are not generally quite as
large but equally well flavored. I distributed much the greater portion
of the fish among the Indians. I purchased five good horses of them
very reasonably, or at least for about the value of six dollars a peice
in merchandize. the Indians are very orderly and do not croud about our
camp nor attempt to disterb any article they see lying about. they
borrow knives kettles &c from the men and always carefully return them.
Capt. Clark says, "we set out early and passed a small creek at one
mile, also the points of four mountains which were high steep and
rocky. the mountains are so steep that it is almost incredible to
mention that horses had passed them. our road in many places lay over
the sharp fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains and
lay in confused heaps for miles together; yet notwithstanding our
horsed traveled barefoot over them as fast as we could and did not
detain us. passed two bold runing streams, and arrived at the entrance
of a small river" where some Indian families resided. they had some
scaffoalds of fish and burries exposed to dry. they were not acquainted
with the circumstance of any whitemen being in their country and were
therefore much allarmed on our approach several of the women and
children fled in the woods for shelter. the guide was behind and the
wood thick in which their lodges were situated we came on them before
they had the least notice of us. those who remained offered us every
thing they had, which was but little; they offered us collars of elks
tusks which their children woar Salmon beries &c. we eat some of their
fish and buries but returned them the other articles they had offered
with a present of some small articles which seemed to add much to their
pacification.
The guide who had by this time arrived explained to them who we were
and our object in visiting them; but still there were some of the women
and Children inconsoleable, they continued to cry during our stay,
which was about an hour. a road passes up this river which my guide
informed me led over the mountains to the Missouri. from this place I
continued my rout along the steep side of a mountain for about 3 miles
and arrived at the river near a small Island on the lower point of
which we encamped in the evening we attempted to gig fish but were
unsuccessfull only obtaining one small salmon. in the course of the day
we had passed several women and children geathering burries who were
very liberal in bestoing us a part of their collections. the river is
very rapid and shoaly; many rocks lie in various derections scattered
throughout it's bed. There are some few small pine scattered through
the bottoms, of which I only saw one which appeared as if it would
answer for a canoe and that was but small. the tops of the mountains on
the Lard. side are covered with pine and some also scattered on the
sides of all the mountains. I saw today a speceis of woodpecker, which
fed on the seeds of the pine. it's beak and tail were white, it's wings
were black, and every other part of a dark brown. it was about the size
of a robin-
[Clark, August 22, 1805]
August 22d Thursday 1805
We Set out early passed a Small Creek on the right at 1 mile and the
points of four mountains verry Steap high & rockey, the assent of three
was So Steap that it is incrediable to describe the rocks in maney
places loose & Sliped from those mountains and is a bed of rugid loose
white and dark brown loose rock for miles. the Indian horses pass over
those Clifts hills Sids & rocks as fast as a man, the three horses with
me do not detain me any on account of those dificuelties, passed two
bold rung. Streams on the right and a Small river at the mouth of Which
Several families of Indians were encamped and had Several Scaffolds of
fish & buries drying we allarmed them verry much as they knew nothing
of a white man being in their Countrey, and at the time we approached
their lodges which was in a thick place of bushes-my guiedes were
behind.--They offered every thing they possessed (which was verry
littl) to us, Some run off and hid in the bushes The first offer of
theirs were Elks tuskes from around their Childrens necks, Sammon &c.
my guide attempted passifyed those people and they Set before me
berres, & fish to eate, I gave a fiew Small articles to those fritened
people which added verry much to their pasification but not entirely as
Some of the women & Childn. Cried dureing my Stay of an hour at this
place, I proceeded on the Side of a verry Steep & rockey mountain for 3
miles and Encamped on the lower pt. of an Island. we attempted to gig
fish without Suckcess. caught but one Small one.The last Creek or Small
river is on the right Side and "a road passes up it & over to the
Missouri" in this day passed Several womin and Children gathering and
drying buries of which they were very kind and gave us a part. the
river rapid and Sholey maney Stones Scattered through it in different
directions. I Saw to day Bird of the wood pecker kind which fed on Pine
burs its Bill and tale white the wings black every other part of a
light brown, and about the Size of a robin. Some fiew Pine Scattered in
the bottoms & Sides of the Mountains (the Top of the Motn. to the left
Covered & inaxcessable) I Saw one which would make a Small Canoe.
[Lewis, August 23, 1805]
Friday August 23rd 1805.
This morning I arrose very early and despatched two hunters on
horseback with orders to extend their hunt to a greater distance up the
S. E. fork than they had done heretofore, in order if possible to
obtain some meet for ourselves as well as the Indians who appeared to
depend on us for food and our store of provision is growing too low to
indulge them with much more corn or flour. I wished to have set out
this morning but the cheef requested that I would wait untill another
party of his nation arrived which he expected today, to this I
consented from necessity, and therefore sent out the hunters as I have
mentioned. I also laid up the canoes this morning in a pond near the
forks; sunk them in the water and weighted them down with stone, after
taking out the plugs of the gage holes in their bottoms; hoping by this
means to guard against both the effects of high water, and that of the
fire which is frequently kindled in these plains by the natives. the
Indians have promised to do them no intentional injury and beleive they
are too lazy at any rate to give themselves the trouble to raise them
from their present situation in order to cut or birn them. I reminded
the chief of the low state of our stores of provision and advised him
to send his young men to hunt, which he immediately recommended to them
and most of them turned out. I wished to have purchased some more
horses of them but they objected against disposing of any more of them
untill we reach their camp beyond the mountains. the Indians pursued a
mule buck near our camp I saw this chase for about 4 miles it was
really entertaining, there were about twelve of them in pursuit of it
on horseback, they finally rode it down and killed it. the all came in
about 1 P.M. having killed 2 mule deer and three goats. this mule buck
was the largest deer of any kind I had ever seen. it was nearly as
large as a doe Elk. I observed that there was but little division or
distribution of the meat they had taken among themselves. some familes
had a large stock and others none. this is not customary among the
nations of Indians with whom I have hitherto been acquainted I asked
Cameahwait the reason why the hunters did not divide the meat among
themselves; he said that meat was so scarce with them that the men who
killed it reserved it for themselves and their own families. my hunters
arrived about 2 in the evening with two mule deer and three common
deer. I distributed three of the deer among those families who appeared
to have nothing to eat. at three P.M. the expected party of Indians
arrived, about 50 men women and Children. I now learnt that most of
them were thus far on their way down the valley towards the buffaloe
country, and observed that there was a good deel of anxiety on the part
of some of those who had promised to assist me over the mountains to
accompany this party, I felt some uneasiness on this subject but as
they still said they would return with me as they had promised I said
nothing to them but resolved to set out in the morning as early as
possible. I dispatched two hunters this evening into the cove to hunt
and leave the meat they might kill on the rout we shall pass tomorrow.
The metal which we found in possession of these people consited of a
few indifferent knives, a few brass kettles some arm bands of iron and
brass, a few buttons, woarn as ornaments in their hair, a spear or two
of a foot in length and some iron and brass arrow points which they
informed me they obtained in exchange for horses from the Crow or Rocky
Mountain Indians on the yellowstone River. the bridlebits and stirrips
they obtained from the Spaniards, tho these were but few. many of them
made use of flint for knives, and with this instrument, skined the
animals they killed, dressed their fish and made their arrows; in short
they used it for every purpose to which the knife is applyed. this
flint is of no regular form, and if they can only obtain a part of it,
an inch or two in length that will cut they are satisfyed, they renew
the edge by fleaking off the flint by means of the point of an Elk's or
deer's horn. with the point of a deer or Elk's horn they also form
their arrow points of the flint, with a quickness and neatness that is
really astonishing. we found no axes nor hatchets among them; what wood
they cut was done either with stone or Elk's horn. the latter they use
always to rive or split their wood. their culinary eutensils exclusive
of the brass kettle before mentioned consist of pots in the form of
ajar made either of earth, or of a white soft stone which becomes black
and very hard by birning, and is found in the hills near the three
forks of the Missouri betwen Madison's and Gallitin's rivers they have
also spoons made of the Buffaloe's horn and those of the Bighorn. Their
bows are made of ceader or pine and have nothing remarkable about them.
the back of the bow is covered with sinues and glue and is about 21/2
feet long. much the shape of those used by the Siouxs Mandans
Minnetares &c. their arrows are more slender generally than those used
by the nations just mentioned but much the same in construction. Their
Sheild is formed of buffaloe hide, perfectly arrow proof, and is a
circle of 2 feet 4 I. or 2 F. 6 I. in diameter. this is frequently
painted with varios figures and ornamented around the edges with
feather and a fringe of dressed leather. they sometimes make bows of
the Elk's horn and those also of the bighorn. those of the Elk's horn
are made of a single peice and covered on the back with glue and sinues
like those made of wood, and are frequently ornamented with a stran
wrought porcupine quills and sinues raped around them for some distance
at both extremities. the bows of the bighorn are formed of small peices
laid flat and cemented with gleue, and rolled with sinews, after which,
they are also covered on the back with sinews and glew, and highly
ornamented as they are much prized. forming the sheild is a cerimony of
great importance among them, this implement would in their minds be
devested of much of its protecting power were it not inspired with
those virtues by their old men and jugglers. their method of preparing
it is thus, an entire skin of a bull buffaloe two years old is first
provided; a feast is next prepared and all the warriors old men and
jugglers invited to partake. a hole is sunk in the ground about the
same in diameter with the intended sheild and about 18 inches deep. a
parcel of stones are now made red hot and thrown into the hole water is
next thrown in and the hot stones cause it to emit a very strong hot
steem, over this they spread the green skin which must not have been
suffered to dry after taken off the beast. the flesh side is laid next
to the groround and as many of the workmen as can reach it take hold on
it's edges and extend it in every direction. as the skin becomes
heated, the hair seperates and is taken of with the fingers, and the
skin continues to contract untill the whoe is drawn within the compas
designed for the shield, it is then taken off and laid on a parchment
hide where they pound it with their heels when barefoot. this operation
of pounding continues for several days or as long as the feast lasts
when it is delivered to the propryeter and declared by the jugglers and
old men to be a sufficient defence against the arrows of their enimies
or even bullets if feast has been a satisfactory one. many of them
beleive implisitly that a ball cannot penitrate their sheilds, in
consequence of certain supernaural powers with which they have been
inspired by their jugglers.--The Poggamoggon is an instrument with a
handle of wood covered with dressed leather about the size of a whip
handle and 22 inches long; a round stone of 2 pounds weight is also
covered with leather and strongly united to the leather of the handle
by a throng of 2 inches long; a loop of leather united to the handle
passes arond the wrist. a very heavy blow may be given with this
instrument. They have also a kind of armor which they form with many
foalds of dressed Atelope's skin, unite with glue and sand. with this
they cover their own bodies and those of their horses. these are
sufficient against the effects of the arrow.--the quiver which contains
their arrows and implements for making fire is formed of various skins.
that of the Otter seems to be prefered. they are but narrow, of a
length sufficent to protect the arrow from the weather, and are woarn
on the back by means of a strap which passes over the left sholder and
under the wright arm.their impliments for making fire is nothing more
than a blunt arrow and a peice of well seasoned soft spongey wood such
as the willow or cottonwood. the point of this arrow they apply to this
dry stick so near one edge of it that the particles of wood which are
seperated from it by the friction of the arrow falls down by it's side
in a little pile. the arrow is held between the palms of the hand with
the fingers extended, and being pressed as much as possible against the
peice is briskly rolled between the palms of the hands backwards and
forwards by pressing the arrow downwards the hands of course in rolling
arrow also decend; they bring them back with a quick motion and repeat
the operation till the dust by the friction takes fire; the peice and
arrow are then removed and some dry grass or Boated wood is added. it
astonished me to see in what little time these people would kindle fire
in this way. in less than a minute they will produce fire.
Capt. Clark set out this morning very early and poroceeded but slowly
in consequence of the difficulty of his road which lay along the steep
side of a mountain over large irregular and broken masses of rocks
which had tumbled from the upper part of the mountain. it was with much
wrisk and pain that the horses could get on. at the distance of four
miles he arrived at the river and the rocks were here so steep and
juted into the river such manner that there was no other alternative
but passing through the river, this he attempted with success tho water
was so deep for a short distance as to swim the horses and was very
rapid; he continued his rout one mile along the edge of the river under
this steep Clift to a little bottom, below which the whole current of
the river beat against the Stard. shore on which he was, and which was
formed of a solid rock perfectly inaccessible to horses. here also the
little track which he had been pursuing, terminated. he therefore
determined to leave the horses and the majority of the party here and
with his guide and three men to continue his rout down the river still
further, in order more fully to satisfy himself as to it's
practicability. accordingly he directed the men to hunt and fish at
this place untill his return. they had not killed anything today but
one goose, and the ballance of the little provision they had brought
with them, as well as the five salmon they had procured yesterday were
consumed last evening; there was of tours no inducement for his halting
any time, at this place; after a few minutes he continued his rout
clambering over immence rocks and along the sides of lofty precepices
on the border of the river to the distance of 12 miles, at which place
a large creek discharged itself on the Norh side 12 yds. wide and deep.
a short distance above the entrance of this creek there is a narrow
bottom which is the first that he had found on the river from that in
which he left the horses and party. a plain indian road led up this
creek which the guide informed him led to a large river that ran to the
North, and was frequented by another nation who occasionally visited
this river for the purpose of taking fish. at this place he saw some
late appearance of Indians having been encamped and the tracks of a
number of horses. Capt. C. halted here about 2 hours, caught some small
fish, on which, with the addition of some berries, they dined. the
river from the place at which he left the party to his present station
was one continued rapid, in which there were five shoals neither of
which could be passed with loaded canoes nor even run with empty ones.
at those several places therefore it would be necessary to unload and
transport the baggage for a considerable distance over steep and almost
inacassable rocks where there was no possibility of employing horses
for the releif of the men; the canoes would next have to be let down by
cords and even with this precaution Capt. C. conceived there would be
much wriske of both canoes and men. at one of those shoals the lofty
perpendicular rocks which from the bases of the mountains approach the
river so nearly on each side, as to prevent the possibility of a
portage, or passage for the canoes without expending much labour in
removing rocks and cuting away the earth in some places. to surmount
These difficulties, precautions must be observed which in their
execution must necessarily consume much time and provision, neither of
which we can command. the season is now far advanced to remain in these
mountains as the Indians inform us we shall shortly have snow; the
salmon have so far declined that they are themselves haistening from
the country and not an animal of any discription is to be seen in this
difficult part of the river larger than a pheasant or a squirrel and
they not abundant; add to this that our stock of provision is now so
low that it would not support us more than ten days. the bends of the
river are short and the currant beats from side to side against the
rocks with great violence. the river is about 100 yds. wide and so deep
that it cannot be foarded but in a few places, and the rocks approach
the river so near in most places that there is no possibility of
passing between them and the water; a passage therefore with horses
along the river is also impracticable. The sides of these mountains
present generally one barren surface of confused and broken masses of
stone. above these are white or brown and towards the base of a grey
colour and so hard that when struck with a steel, yeald fire like
flint. those he had just past were scarcely releived by the appearance
of a tree; but those below the entrance of the creek were better
covered with timber, and there were also some tall pine near the river.
The sides of the mountains are very steep, and the torrents of water
which roll down their sides at certain seasons appear to carry with
them vast quantities of the loose stone into the river. after dinner
Capt. C. continued his rout down the river and at 1/2 a mile pased
another creek not so large as that just mentioned, or about 5 yards
wide. here his guide informed him that by ascending this creek some
distance they would have a better road and would cut off a considerable
bend which the river made to the south; accordingly he pursued a well
beaten Indian track which led up this creek about six miles, then
leaving the creek on the wright he passed over a ridge, and at the
distance of a mile arrived at the river where it passes through a well
timbered bottom of about eighty acres of land; they passed this bottom
and asscended a steep and elivated point of a mountain, from whence the
guide shewed him the brake of the river through the mountains for about
20 miles further. this view was terminated by one of the most lofty
mountains, Capt. C. informed me, he had ever seen which was perfectly
covered with snow. the river directed it's course immediately to this
stupendous mountain at the bace of which the gude informe him those
difficulties of which himself and nation had spoken, commenced. that
after the river reached this mountain it continued it's rout to the
North for many miles between high and perpendicular rocks, roling
foaming and beating against innumerable rocks which crouded it's
channel; that then it penetrated the mountain through a narrow gap
leaving a perpendicular rock on either side as high as the top of the
mountain which he beheld. that the river here making a bend they could
not see through the mountain, and as it was impossible to decend the
river or clamber over that vast mountain covered with eternal snow,
neither himself nor any of his nation had ever been lower in this
direction, than in view of the place at which the river entered this
mountain; that if Capt. C. wished him to do so, he would conduct him to
that place, where he thought they could probably arrive by the next
evening. Capt. C. being now perfictly satisfyed as to the
impractability of this rout either by land or water, informed the old
man, that he was convinced of the varacity of his assertions and would
now return to the village from whence they had set out where he
expected to meet myself and party. they now returned to the upper part
of the last creek he had passed, and encamped. it was an hour after
dark before he reached this place. a small river falls into this fork
of the Columbia just above the high mountain through which it passes on
the south side.
[Clark, August 23, 1805]
August 23rd Friday 1805
We Set out early proceed on with great dificuelty as the rocks were So
Sharp large and unsettled and the hill sides Steep that the horses
could with the greatest risque and dificulty get on, no provisions as
the 5 Sammons given us yesterday by the Indians were eaten last night,
one goose killed this morning; at 4 miles we came to a place the horses
Could not pass without going into the river, we passed one mile to a
verry bad riffle the water Confined in a narrow Channel & beeting
against the left Shore, as we have no parth further and the Mounts. jut
So close as to prevent the possibiley of horses proceeding down, I
deturmined to delay the party here and with my guide and three men
proceed on down to examine if the river continued bad or was
practiable. I Set out with three men directing those left to hunt and
fish until my return. I proceeded on Somtims in a Small wolf parth & at
other times Climeing over the rocks for 12 miles to a large Creek on
the right Side above the mouth of this Creek for a Short distance is a
narrow bottom & the first, below the place I left my partey, a road
passes down this Creek which I understoode passed to the water of a
River which run to Th North & was the ground of another nation, Some
fresh Sign about this Creek of horse and Camps. I delayd 2 hours to
fish, Cought Some Small fish on which we dined.
The River from the place I left my party to this Creek is almost one
continued rapid, five verry Considerable rapids the passage of either
with Canoes is entirely impossable, as the water is Confined betwen
hugh Rocks & the Current beeting from one against another for Some
distance below &c. &c. at one of those rapids the mountains Close So
Clost as to prevent a possibility of a portage with great labour in
Cutting down the Side of the hill removeing large rocks &c. &c. all the
others may be passed by takeing every thing over Slipery rocks, and the
Smaller ones Passed by letting down the Canoes empty with Cords, as
running them would certainly be productive of the loss of Some Canoes,
those dificuelties and necessary precautions would delay us an emince
time in which provisions would be necessary. (we have but little and
nothing to be precured in this quarter except Choke Cheres & red haws
not an animal of any kind to be seen and only the track of a Bear)
below this Creek the lofty Pine is thick in the bottom hill Sides on
the mountains & up the runs. The river has much the resemblance of that
above bends Shorter and no passing, after a few miles between the river
& the mountains & the Current So Strong that is dangerous crossing the
river, and to proceed down it would rendr it necessarey to Cross almost
at every bend This river is about 100 yards wide and can be forded but
in a few places. below my guide and maney other Indians tell me that
the Mountains Close and is a perpendicular Clift on each Side, and
Continues for a great distance and that the water runs with great
violence from one rock to the other on each Side foaming & roreing thro
rocks in every direction, So as to render the passage of any thing
impossible. those rapids which I had Seen he said was Small & trifleing
in comparrison to the rocks & rapids below, at no great distance & The
Hills or mountains were not like those I had Seen but like the Side of
a tree Streight up--Those Mountains which I had passed were Steep
Contain a white, a brown, & low down a Grey hard stone which would make
fire, those Stone were of different Sises all Sharp and are continuly
Slipping down, and in maney places one bed of those Stones inclined
from the river bottom to the top of the mountains, The Torrents of
water which come down aftr a rain carries with it emence numbers of
those Stone into the river about 1/2 a mile below the last mentioned
Creek another Creek falls in, my guide informed me that our rout was up
this Creek by which rout we would Save a considerable bend of the river
to the South. we proceeded on a well beeten Indian parth up this Creak
about 6 miles and passed over a ridge 1 mile to the river in a Small
vally through which we passed and assended a Spur of the Mountain from
which place my guide Shew me the river for about 20 miles lower &
pointed out the dificulty we returned to the last Creek & camped about
one hour after dark.
There my guide Shewed me a road from the N Which Came into the one I
was in which he Said went to a large river which run to the north on
which was a Nation he called Tushapass, he made a map of it
[Lewis, August 24, 1805]
Saturday August 24th 1805.
As the Indians who were on their way down the Missouri had a number of
spare hoses with them I thought it probable that I could obtain some of
them and therefore desired the Cheif to speak to them and inform me
whether they would trade. they gave no positive answer but requested to
see the goods which I was willing to give in exchange. I now produced
some battle axes which I had made at Fort Mandan with which they were
much pleased. knives also seemed in great demand among them. I soon
purchased three horses and a mule. for each horse I gave an ax a knife
handkercheif and a little paint; & for the mule the addition of a knife
a shirt handkercheif and a pair of legings; at this price which was
quite double that given for the horses, the fellow who sold him made a
merit of having bestoed me one of his mules. I consider this mule a
great acquisition. These Indians soon told me that they had no more
horses for sale and I directed the party to prepare to set out. I had
now nine horses and a mule, and two which I had hired made twelve these
I had loaded and the Indian women took the ballance of the baggage. I
had given the Interpreter some articles with which to purchase a horse
for the woman which he had obtained. at twelve Oclock we set out and
passed the river below the forks, directing our rout towards the cove
along the track formerly mentioned. most of the horses were heavily
laden, and it appears to me that it will require at least 25 horses to
convey our baggage along such roads as I expect we shall be obliged to
pass in the mountains. I had now the inexpressible satisfaction to find
myself once more under way with all my baggage and party. an Indian had
the politeness to offer me one of his horses to ride which I accepted
with cheerfullness as it enabled me to attend better to the march of
the party. I had reached the lower part of the cove when an Indian rode
up and informed me that one of my men was very sick and unable to come
on. I directed the party to halt at a small run which falls into the
creek on Lard. at the lower part of the Cove and rode back about 2
Miles where I found Wiser very ill with a fit of the cholic. I sent
Sergt. Ordway who had remained with him for some water and gave him a
doze of the essence of Peppermint and laudinum which in the course of
half an hour so far recovered him that he was enabled to ride my horse
and I proceeded on foot and rejoined the party. the sun was yet an hour
high but the Indians who had for some time impatiently waited my return
at length unloaded and turned out their horses and my party had
followed there ex-ample. as it was so late and the Indians had prepared
their camp for the night I thought it best to acquiess and determined
also to remain. we had traveled only about six miles. after we encamped
we had a slight shower of rain. Goodrich who is our principal fisherman
caught several fine trout. Drewyer came to us late in the evening and
had not killed anything. I gave the Indians who were absolutely engaged
in transporting the baggage, a little corn as they had nothing to eat.
I told Cameahwait that my stock of provision was too small to indulge
all his people with provision and recommended it to him to advise such
as were not assisting us with our baggage to go on to their camp to
morrow and wait our arrival; which he did accordingly. Cameahwait
literally translated is one who never walks. he told me that his nation
had also given him another name by which he was signalized as a warrior
which was Too-et'-te-con'-e or black gun. these people have many names
in the course of their lives, particularly if they become distinguished
characters. for it seems that every important event by which they
happen to distinguish themselves intitles them to claim another name
which is generally scelected by themselves and confirmed by the nation.
those distinguishing acts are the killing and scalping an enemy, the
killing a white bear, leading a party to war who happen to be
successfull either in destroying their enemies or robing them of their
horses, or individually stealing the horses of an enemy. these are
considered acts of equal heroism among them, and that of killing an
enemy without scalping him is considered of no importance; in fact the
whole honour seems to be founded in the act of scalping, for if a man
happens to slay a dozen of his enemies in action and others get the
scalps or first lay their hand on the dead person the honor is lost to
him who killed them and devolves on those who scalp or first touch
them. Among the Shoshones, as well as all the Indians of America,
bravery is esteemed the primary virtue; nor can any one become eminent
among them who has not at some period of his life given proofs of his
possessing this virtue. with them there can be no preferment without
some warelike achievement, and so completely interwoven is this
principle with the earliest Elements of thought that it will in my
opinion prove a serious obstruction to the restoration of a general
peace among the nations of the Missouri. while at Fort Mandan I was one
day addressing some cheifs of the Minetares wo visited us and pointing
out to them the advantages of a state of peace with their neighbours
over that of war in which they were engaged. the Chiefs who had already
geathered their havest of larals, and having forceably felt in many
instances some of those inconveniences attending a state of war which I
pointed out, readily agreed with me in opinon. a young fellow under the
full impression of the Idea I have just suggested asked me if they were
in a state of peace with all their neighhours what the nation would do
for Cheifs?, and added that the cheifs were now oald and must shortly
die and that the nation could not exist without cheifs. taking as
granted that there could be no other mode devised for making Cheifs but
that which custom had established through the medium of warlike
acievements.
The few guns which the Shoshones have are reserved for war almost
exclusively and the bow and arrows are used in hunting. I have seen a
few skins among these people which have almost every appearance of the
common sheep. they inform me that they finde this animals on the high
mountains to the West and S. W. of them. it is about the size of the
common sheep, the wool is reather shorter and more intermixed with long
hairs particularly on the upper part of the neck. these skins have been
so much woarn that I could not form a just Idea of the animal or it's
colour. the Indians however inform me that it is white and that it's
horns are lunated comprest twisted and bent backward as those of the
common sheep. the texture of the skin appears to be that of the sheep.
I am now perfectly convinced that the sheep as well as the Bighorn
exist in these mountains.
The usual caparison of the Shoshone horse is a halter and saddle. the
1st consists either of a round plated or twisted cord of six or seven
strands of buffaloe's hair, or a throng of raw hide made pliant by
pounding and rubing. these cords of bufaloe's hair are about the size
of a man's finger and remarkably strong. this is the kind of halter
which is prefered by them. the halter of whatever it may be composed is
always of great length and is never taken from the neck of the horse
which they commonly use at any time. it is first attatched at one end
about the neck of the horse with a knot that will not slip, it is then
brought down to his under jaw and being passed through the mouth
imbaces the under jaw and tonge in a simple noose formed by crossing
the rope inderneath the jaw of the horse. this when mounted he draws up
on the near side of the horse's neck and holds in the left hand,
suffering it to trail at a great distance behind him sometimes the
halter is attatched so far from the end that while the shorter end
serves him to govern his horse, the other trails on the grond as before
mentioned. they put their horses to their full speed with those cords
trailing on the ground. when they turn out the horse to graze the noose
is mearly loosed from his mouth. the saddle is made of wood and covered
with raw hide which holds the parts very firmly together. it is made
like the pack saddles in uce among the French and Spaniards. it
consists of two flat thin boards which fit the sides of the horses
back, and are held frirm by two peices which are united to them behind
and before on the outer side and which rise to a considerable hight
terminating sometimes in flat horizontal points extending outwards, and
alwas in an accute angle or short bend underneath the upper part of
these peices. a peice of buffaloe's skin with the hair on, is usually
put underneath the saddle; and very seldom any covering on the saddle.
stirrups when used are made of wood and covered with leather. these are
generally used by the elderly men and women; the young men scarcely
ever use anything more than a small pad of dressed leather stuffed with
hair, which is confined with a leather thong passing arond the body of
the horse in the manner of a girth. they frequently paint their
favorite horses, and cut their ears in various shapes. they also
decorate their mains and tails, which they never draw or trim, with the
feathers of birds, and sometimes suspend at the breast of the horse the
finest ornaments they possess. the Spanish bridle is prefered by them
when they can obtain them, but they never dispence with the cord about
the neck of the horse, which serves them to take him with more ease
when he is runing at large. They are excellent horsemen and extreemly
expert in casting the cord about the neck of a horse. the horses that
have been habituated to be taken with the cord in this way, however
wild they may appear at first, surrender the moment they feel the cord
about their necks.--There are no horses in this quarter which can with
propriety be termed wild. there are some few which have been left by
the indians at large for so great a length of time that they have
become shye, but they all shew marks of having been in possession of
man. such is that one which Capt. Clark saw just below the three forks
of the Missouri, and one other which I saw on the Missouri below the
entrance of the Mussle shell river.--Capt. Clark set out very early
this morning on his return, he traveled down the creek to it's entrance
by the same Indian track he had ascended it; at the river he marked his
name on a pine tree, then ascended to the bottom above the second
creek, and brekfasted on burries, which occupyed them about one hour.
he now retraced his former track and joined the party where he had left
them at 4 P.M. on his way Capt. C. fell from a rock and injured one of
his legs very much. the party during his absence had killed a few
pheasants and caught a few small fish on which together with haws and
Serviceburies they had subsisted. they had also killed one cock of the
Mountains Capt. Clark now wrote me a discription of the river and
country, and stated our prospects by this rout as they have been
heretofore mentioned and dispatched Colter on horseback with orders to
loose no time reaching me. he set out late with the party continued his
rout about two miles and encamped. Capt Clark had seen some trees which
would make small canoes but all of them some distance below the Indian
Caps which he passed at the entrance of fish Creek.
[Clark, August 24, 1805]
August 24th Satturday 1805
Set out verry early this morning on my return passed down the Creek at
the mouth marked my name on a pine Tree, proceed on to the bottom above
the Creek & Brackfast on buries & delayed 1 hour, then proceed on up
the river by the Same rout we decended to the place I left my party
where we arrived at 4 oClock, (I Sliped & bruised my leg verry much on
a rock) the party had killed Several phesents and Cought a fiew Small
fish on which they had Subsisted in my absence. also a heath hen, near
the Size of a Small turkey.
I wrote a letter to Capt Lewis informing him of the prospects before us
and information recved of my guide which I thought favourable &c. &
Stating two plans one of which for us to pursue &c. and despatched one
man & horse and directed the party to get ready to march back, every
man appeared disheartened from the prospects of the river, and nothing
to eate, I Set out late and Camped 2 miles above, nothing to eate but
Choke Cherries & red haws which act in different ways So as to make us
Sick, dew verry heavy, my beding wet in passing around a rock the
horses were obliged to go deep into the water.
The plan I stated to Capt Lewis if he agrees with me we shall adopt is
to procure as many horses (one for each man) if possible and to hire my
present guide who I sent on to him to interegate thro the Intprtr. and
proceed on by land to Some navagable part of the Columbia River, or to
the Ocean, depending on what provisions we can procure by the gun aded
to the Small Stock we have on hand depending on our horses as the last
resort.
a second plan to divide the party one part to attempt this deficuet
river with what provisions we had, and the remaindr to pass by Land on
hose back Depending on our gun &c for Provisions &c. and come together
occasionally on the river.
the 1s of which I would be most pleased with &c.
I saw Several trees which would make Small Canoes and by putting 2
together would make a Siseable one, all below the last Indian Camp
Several miles
[Lewis, August 25, 1805]
Sunday August 25th 1805.
This morning loaded our horses and set out a little after sunrise; a
few only of the Indians unengaged in assisting us went on as I had
yesterday proposed to the Cheif. the others flanked us on each side and
started some Antelope which they pursued for several hours but killed
none of them. we proceeded within 2 Ms. of the narrow pass or seven
miles from our camp of last evening and halted for dinner. Our hunters
joined us at noon with three deer the greater part of which I gave the
indians. sometime after we had halted, Charbono mentioned to me with
apparent unconcern that he expected to meet all the Indians from the
camp on the Columbia tomorrow on their way to the Missouri. allarmed at
this information I asked why he expected to meet them. he then informed
me that the 1st Cheif had dispatched some of his young men this morning
to this camp requesting the Indians to meet them tomorrow and that
himself and those with him would go on with them down the Missouri, and
consequently leave me and my baggage on the mountain or thereabouts. I
was out of patience with the folly of Charbono who had not sufficient
sagacity to see the consequencies which would inevitably flow from such
a movement of the indians, and altho he had been in possession of this
information since early in the morning when it had been communicated to
him by his Indian woman yet he never mentioned it untill the after
noon. I could not forbear speaking to him with some degree of asperity
on this occasion. I saw that there was no time to be lost in having
those orders countermanded, or that we should not in all probability
obtain any more horses or even get my baggage to the waters of the
Columbia. I therefore Called the three Cheifs together and having
smoked a pipe with them, I asked them if they were men of their words,
and whether I could depent on the promises they had made me; they
readily answered in the affermative; I then asked them if they had not
promised to assist me with my baggage to their camp on the other side
of the mountains, or to the place at which Capt. Clark might build the
canoes, should I wish it. they acknowledged that they had. I then asked
them why they had requested their people on the other side of the
mountain to meet them tomorrow on the mountain where there would be no
possibility of our remaining together for the purpose of trading for
their horses as they had also promised. that if they had not promised
to have given me their assistance in transporting my baggage to the
waters on the other side of the mountain that I should not have
attempted to pass the mountains but would have returned down the river
and that in that case they would never have seen anymore white men in
their country. that if they wished the white men to be their friends
and to assist them against their enemies by furnishing them with arms
and keeping their enemies from attacking them that they must never
promis us anything which they did not mean to perform. that when I had
first seen them they had doubted what I told them about the arrival of
the party of whitemen in canoes, that they had been convinced that what
I told them on that occasion was true, why then would they doubt what I
said on any other point. I told them that they had witnessed my
liberality in dividing the meat which my hunters killed with them; and
that I should continue to give such of them as assisted me a part of
whatever we had ourselves to eat. and finally concluded by telling them
if they intended to keep the promisses they had made me to dispatch one
of their young men immediately with orders to their people to remain
where they were untill our arrival. the two inferior cheifs said that
they wished to assist me and be as good as their word, and that they
had not sent for their people, that it was the first Chief who had done
so, and they did not approve of the measure. Cameahwait remained silent
for some time, at length he told me that he knew he had done wrong but
that he had been induced to that measure from seeing all his people
hungary, but as he had promised to give me his assistance he would not
in future be worse than his word. I then desired him to send
immediately and countermand his orders; acordingly a young man was sent
for this purpose and I gave him a handkerchief to engage him in my
interest. this matter being arranged to my satisfaction I called all
the women and men together who had been assisting me in the
transportation of the baggage and gave them a billet for each horse
which they had imployed in that service and informed them when we
arrived at the plaice where we should finally halt on the river I would
take the billet back and give them merchandize for it. every one
appeared now satisfyed and when I ordered the horses loaded for our
departure the Indians were more than usually allert. we continued our
march untill late in the evening and encamped at the upper part of the
cove where the creek enters the mountains; here our hunters joined us
with another deer which they had killed, this I gave to the women and
Children, and for my own part remained supperless. I observed
considerable quantities of wild onions in the bottom lands of this
cove. I also saw several large hares and many of the cock of the plains.
Capt. Clark set out early this morning and continued his rout to the
indian camp at the entrance of fish Creek; here he halted about an
hour; the indians gave himself and party some boiled salmon and
hurries. these people appeared extreemly hospitable tho poor and dirty
in the extreem. he still pursued the track up the river by which he had
decended and in the evening arrived at the bluff on the river where he
had encamped on the 21st Inst. it was late in the evening before he
reached this place. they formed their camp, and Capt. C. sent them in
different directions to hunt and fish. some little time after they
halted a party of Indians passed by on their way down the river,
consisting of a man a woman and several boys; from these people the
guide obtained 2 salmon which together with some small fish they caught
and a beaver which Shannon killed furnished them with a plentifull
supper. the pine grows pretty abundantly high up on the sides of the
mountains on the opposite side of the river. one of the hunters saw a
large herd of Elk on the opposite side of the river in the edge of the
timbered land.--Winsor was taken very sick today and detained Capt C.
very much on his march. three hunters whom he had sent on before him
this morning joined him in the evening having killed nothing; they saw
only one deer.
The course and the distances, of Capt. Clark's rout down this branch of
the Columbia below this bluff, commencing opposite to an Island, are as
follow.
This morning while passing through the Shoshone cove Frazier fired his
musquet at some ducks in a little pond at the distance of about 60
yards from me; the ball rebounded from the water and pased within a
very few feet of me. near the upper part of this cove the Shoshonees
suffered a very severe defeat by the Minnetares about six years since.
this part of the cove on the N. E. side of the Creek has lately been
birned by the Indians as a signal on some occasion.
[Clark, August 25, 1805]
August 25th Sunday 1805
Set out verry early and halted one hour at the Indian Camp, they were
kind gave us all a little boiled Sarnmon & dried buries to eate, abt.
half as much as I could eate, those people are kind with what they have
but excessive pore & Durtey.--we proceeded on over the mountains we had
before passed to the Bluff we Encamped at on the 21s instant where we
arrived late and turned out to hunt & fish, Cought Several Small fish,
a party of Squars & one man with Several boys going down to guathe
berries below, my guide got two Sammon from this party (which made
about half a Supper for the party), after Dark Shannon came in with a
beaver which the Party suped on Sumptiously--one man verry Sick to day
which detained us verry much I had three hunters out all day, they saw
one Deer, killed nothing. one of the Party Saw 9 Elk on a Mountain to
our right assending, amongst the Pine timber which is thick on that side
[Lewis, August 26, 1805]
Monday August 26th 1805.
This morning was excessively cold; there was ice on the vessels of
water which stood exposed to the air nearly a quarter of an inch thick.
we collected our horses and set out at sunrise. we soon arrived at the
extreem source of the Missouri; here I halted a few minutes, the men
drank of the water and consoled themselves with the idea of having at
length arrived at this long wished for point. from hence we proceeded
to a fine spring on the side of the mountain where I had lain the
evening before I first arrived at the Shoshone Camp. here I halted to
dine and graize our horses, there being fine green grass on that part
of the hillside which was moistened by the water of the spring while
the grass on the other parts was perfectly dry and parched with the
sun. I directed a pint of corn to be given each Indian who was engaged
in transporting our baggage and about the same quantity to each of the
men which they parched pounded and made into supe. one of the women who
had been assisting in the transportation of the baggage halted at a
little run about a mile behind us, and sent on the two pack horses
which she had been conducting by one of her female friends. I enquired
of Cameahwait the cause of her detention, and was informed by him in an
unconcerned manner that she had halted to bring fourth a child and
would soon overtake us; in about an hour the woman arrived with her
newborn babe and passed us on her way to the camp apparently as well as
she ever was. It appears to me that the facility and ease with which
the women of the aborigines of North America bring fourth their
children is reather a gift of nature than depending as some have
supposed on the habitude of carrying heavy burthens on their backs
while in a state of pregnancy. if a pure and dry air, an elivated and
cold country is unfavourable to childbirth, we might expect every
difficult incident to that operation of nature in this part of the
continent; again as the snake Indians possess an abundance of horses,
their women are seldom compelled like those in other parts of the
continent to carry burthens on their backs, yet they have their
children with equal convenience, and it is a rare occurrence for any of
them to experience difficulty in childbirth. I have been several times
informed by those who were conversent with the fact, that the indian
women who are pregnant by whitemen experience more difficulty in
childbirth than when pregnant by an Indian. if this be true it would go
far in suport of the opinion I have advanced.
the tops of the high and irregular mountains which present themselves
to our view on the opposite side of this branch of the Columbia are yet
perfectly covered with snow; the air which proceeds from those
mountains has an agreeable coolness and renders these parched and South
hillsides much more supportable at this time of the day it being now
about noon. I observe the indian women collecting the root of a speceis
of fennel which grows in the moist grounds and feeding their poor
starved children; it is really distressing to witness the situation of
those poor wretches. the radix of this plant is of the knob kind, of a
long ovate form terminating in a single radicle, the whole bing about 3
or four inches in length and the thickest part about the size of a
man's little finger. it is white firm and crisp in it's present state,
when dryed and pounded it makes a fine white meal; the flavor of this
root is not unlike that of annisseed but not so pungent; the stem rises
to the hight of 3 or four feet is jointed smooth and cilindric; from r
to 4 of those knobed roots are attatched to the base of this stem. the
leaf is sheathing sessile, & pultipartite, the divisions long and
narrow; the whole is of a deep green. it is now in blame; the flowers
are numerous, small, petals white, and are of the umbellaferous kind.
several small peduncles put forth from the main stock one at each joint
above the sheathing leaf. it has no root leaves. the root of the
present year declines when the seeds have been matured and the
succeeding spring other roots of a similar kind put fourth from the
little knot which unites the roots and stem and grow and decline with
the stem as before mentioned. The sunflower is very abundant near the
watercourses the seeds of this plant are now rip and the natives
collect them in considerable quantities and reduce them to meal by
pounding and rubing them between smooth stones. this meal is a favorite
food their manner of using it has been beforementiond. after dinner we
continued our rout towards the village. on our near approach we were
met by a number of young men on horseback. Cameahwait requested that we
would discharge our guns when we arrived in sight of the Village,
accordingly when I arrived on an eminence above the village in the
plain I drew up the party at open order in a single rank and gave them
a runing fire discharging two rounds. they appeared much gratifyed with
this exhibition. we then proceeded to the village or encampment of
brush lodges 32 in number. we were conducted to a large lodge which had
been prepared for me in the center of their encampmerit which was
situated in a beautifull level smooth and extensive bottom near the
river about 3 miles above the place I had first found them encamped.
here we arrived at 6 in the evening arranged our baggage near my tent
and placed those of the men on either side of the baggage facing
outwards. I found Colter here who had just arrived with a letter from
Capt. Clark in which Capt. C. had given me an account of his
peregrination and the description of the river and country as before
detailed from this view of the subject I found it a folly to think of
attemping to decend this river in canoes and therefore to commence the
purchase of horses in the morning from the indians in order to carry
into execution the design we had formed of passing the rocky Mountains.
I now informed Cameahwait of my intended expedition overland to the
great river which lay in the plains beyond the mountains and told him
that I wished to purchase 20 horses of himself and his people to convey
our baggage. he observed that the Minnetares had stolen a great number
of their horses this spring but hoped his people would spear me the
number I wished. I also asked a guide, he observed that he had no doubt
but the old man who was with Capt. C. would accompany us if we wished
him and that he was better informed of the country than any of them.
matters being thus far arranged I directed the fiddle to be played and
the party danced very merily much to the amusement and gratification of
the natives, though I must confess that the state of my own mind at
this moment did not well accord with the prevailing mirth as I somewhat
feared that the caprice of the indians might suddenly induce them to
withhold their horses from us without which my hopes of prosicuting my
voyage to advantage was lost; however I determined to keep the indians
in a good humour if possible, and to loose no time in obtaining the
necessary number of horses. I directed the hunters to turn out early in
the morning and indeavor to obtain some meat. I had nothing but a
little parched corn to eat this evening.
This morning Capt. C. and party
[Clark, August 26, 1805]
August 26th Monday 1805
a fine morning Despatched three men a head to hunt, our horses missing
Sent out my guide and four men to hunt them, which detained me untill 9
oClock a.m. at which time I Set out and proceeded on by the way of the
forks to the Indian Camps at the first were not one mouthfull to eate
untill night as our hunters could kill nothing and I could See & catch
no fish except a few Small ones. The Indians gave us 2 Sammon boiled
which I gave to the men, one of my men Shot a Sammon in the river about
Sunset those fish gave us a Supper. all the Camp flocked about me
untill I went to Sleep--and I beleve if they had a Sufficency to eate
themselves and any to Spare they would be liberal of it I derected the
men to mend their Mockessons to night and turn out in the morning early
to hunt Deer fish birds &c. &c. Saw great numbers of the large Black
grass hopper. Some bars which were verry wild, but few Birds. a number
of ground Lizards; Some fiew Pigions
[Clark, August 27, 1805]
August 27th Tuesday 1805
Some frost this morning every Man except one, out hunting, a young man
Came from the upper Village & informed me that Capt Lewis would join me
abt. 12 oClock to day. one man killed a Small Sammon, and the Indians
gave me another which afforded us a Sleight brackfast. Those Pore
people are here depending on what fish They Can Catch, without anything
else to depend on; and appere Contented, my party hourly Complaining of
their retched Situation and doubts of Starveing in a Countrey where no
game of any kind except a fiew fish can be found, an Indian brough in
to the Camp 5 Sammon, two of which I purchased which afforded us a
Supper.
[Clark, August 28, 1805]
August 28th Wednesday 1805
a frost this morning. The Inds. Cought out of their traps Several
Sammon and gave us two, I purchased two others which we made last us to
day. Several a Camp of about 40 Indians came from the West fork and
passed up to day, nothing killed by my party with every exertion in all
places where game probably might be found. I dispatched one man to the
upper camps to enquire if Cap. Lewis was comeing &c. he returned after
night with a letter from Capt. Lewis informing me of his Situation at
the upper Village, and had precured 22 horses for our rout through by
land on the plan which I had preposed in which he agreed with me in;
and requsted me to ride up and get the horses the Indian informed him
they had reserved for me &c. I purchased Some fish roe of those pore
but kind people with whome I am Encamped for which I gave three Small
fish hooks, the use of which they readily proseved, one Indian out all
day & killed only one Sammon with his gig; my hunters killed nothing, I
had three pack Saddles made to day for our horses which I expected Capt
Lewis would purchase &c. Those Sammon which I live on at present are
pleasent eateing, not with standing they weaken me verry fast and my
flesh I find is declineing
[Clark, August 29, 1805]
August 29th Thursday 1805
a Cold morning Some frost. the Wind from the South, I left our baggage
in possession of 2 men and proceeded on up to join Capt Lewis at the
upper Village of Snake Indians where I arrived at 1 oClock found him
much engaged in Counceling and attempting to purchase a fiew more
horses. I Spoke to the Indians on various Subjects endeavoring to
impress on theire minds the advantaje it would be to them for to Sell
us horses and expedite the our journey the nearest and best way
possibly that we might return as Soon as possible and winter with them
at Some place where there was plenty of buffalow,--our wish is to get a
horse for each man to Carry our baggage and for Some of the men to ride
occasionally, The horses are handsom and much acustomed to be changed
as to their Parsture; we cannot Calculate on their carrying large loads
& feed on the Grass which we may Calculate on finding in the Mountain
Thro which we may expect to pass on our rout made Some Selestial
observations, the Lard. of this Part the Columbia River is ____ North.
Longtd. ____ W
I purchased a horse for which I gave my Pistol 100 Balls Powder & a
Knife. our hunters Killed 2 Deer near their Camp to day. 2 yesterday &
3 The Day before, this meet was a great treat to me as I had eate none
for 8 days past
[Clark, August 30, 1805]
August 30th Friday 1805
a fine Morning, finding that we Could purchase no more horse than we
had for our goods &c. (and those not a Sufficint number for each of our
Party to have one which is our wish) I Gave my Fuzee to one of the men
& Sold his musket for a horse which Completed us to 29 total horses, we
Purchased pack Cords Made Saddles & Set out on our rout down the river
by land guided by my old guide one other who joined him, the old gude's
3 Sons followed him before we Set out our hunters killed three Deer
proceded on 12 miles and encamped on the river South Side--at the time
we Set out from the Indian Camps the greater Part of the Band Set out
over to the waters of the Missouri. we had great attention paid to the
horses, as they were nearly all Sore Backs and Several pore, & young
Those horses are indifferent, maney Sore backs and others not acustomed
to pack, and as we Cannot put large loads on them are Compelled to
purchase as maney as we Can to take our Small propotion of baggage of
the Parties. (& Eate if necessary) Proceeded on 12 miles to day
[Clark, August 31, 1805]
August 31st 1805 Satturday
A fine morning Set out before Sun rise, as we passed the lodges at
which place I had encamped for thre nights and left 2 men, Those 2 men
joined us and we proceeded on in the Same rout I decended the 21st
Instant, halted 3 hours on Sammon Creek to Let our horses graze the
wind hard from the S. W. I met an Indian on horse back who fled with
great Speed to Some lodges below & informed them that the Enemis were
Coming down, armd with guns &c. the inhabitents of the Lodges
indisceved him, we proceeded on the road on which I had decended as far
as the 1st run below & left the road & Proceeded up the Run in a
tolerable road 4 miles & Encamped in Some old lodjes at the place the
road leaves the Creek and assends the high Countrey Six Indians
followed us four of them the Sons of our guide; our hunters killed one
Deer a goose & Prarie fowl. This day warm and Sultrey, Praries or open
Valies on fire in Several places--The Countrey is Set on fire for the
purpose of Collecting the different bands, and a Band of the Flatheads
to go to the Missouri where They intend passing the winter near the
Buffalow Proceeded on 22 miles to Day, 4 miles of which up a run
Part II: Journal Entries of August 1805
- Details
- Written by: Meriwether Lewis and and William Clark
- Category: The Journals of Lewis and Clark 1804-1806