[Clark, July 1, 1804]
July 1st 1804, last night one of the Sentinals Chang'd either a man or
Beast, which run off, all prepared for action, Set out early passed the
Dimond Isd. pass a Small Creek on the L. S. as this Creek is without
name we Call it Biscuit Creek Brackfast on the upper point of a Sand
beech, The river still falling a little a verry warm Day. I took Some
medison last night which has worked me very much party all in helth
except Boils-
passed a Sand bar in the river above the Isd. Covered for a me. with
Drift Wood, Came to Capt Lewis took Medn. altitude & we delayed three
hours, the day being excessively hot, Turkeys are plenty on the Shore,
G. Drewyer inform that he Saw PueCanns Trees on S. S. yesterday great
quantities of raspburies an Grapes, (2) pass a Creek on the L. S.
called remore (Tree Frog) Creek, an Isd above in the Mid. and 2 Willow
Isds on the S. S. all of the Same name; The two Willow Isds. has been
made within 3 years & the Main Chant. runs now on the L S. of the large
Island where there was no runing water at low water from this Island
the range of Hills up the river to the N, W, pass a run on the L. S. a
Butifull extensive Prarie, Two Islands just above Called (Isles des
Parques) or Field Islands, those Islands are, one of our French hands
tels me that the French intended to Settle here once & brought their
Cows and put them on those Islands, Mr Mackey Says the first village of
the Kanseis was a little above this Island & made use of as fields, no
trace of anything of that Kind remains to be Seen on the Isds. fine
Land on the L. Side, Hills near the river all day, Camped on the lower
pot. of 1st Isd.-
[Clark, July 1, 1804]
July 1st, Sunday 1804
a Small allarm last night all prepared for action, Set out early this
morning passed on the North Side of Dimond Island, a Small Creek mouths
opposit I call Biscuit Creek,--a large Sand bar in the middle of the
river 11/2 ms. above the Isd. Covered with Drift wood. river fall a
little. The wind from S. W. Came to above this Drift and delayed three
hours to refresh the men who were verry much over powered with the
heat, Great quantity of Grapes & raspberries, (2) passed a Small Creek
on the L. S. below one large and two small Islands. This Creek and
Isds. are Called Remore (or Tree Frog) a large Pond on the S. S., the
main Current of Water run'g on the L. S. of the Island, I am told that
Three years ago the main Current run on the S. S. of the Island and no
appearance of the two Smaller Islands, Camped on the lower point of one
of the two large & 2 Small Isds. Called Isles des Parques or field
Islds a high butifull Prarie on the L. S. one of the french hands Says
"that the french Kept their Cattle & horses on those Islands at the
time they had in this quarter a fort & trading establishment."
paecaun Trees Seen on the S. S. Deer and turkeys in great quantities on
the bank
[Clark, July 2, 1804]
July the 2nd 1804 Set out verry early this morning passd on the Left of
the Isles des parques High butifull Situation--on the L S. the land
indifferent lands a Creek coms in on the S. S. Called parques, all at
once the river became Crowded with drift that it was dangerous to cross
this I Suppose was from the caveing in of the banks at the head of Some
Island above, (3) passed a Creek on the L. S. called Turquie or Turkey
Creek passed a verry bad Sand bar on the L. S. the 20 Oars & Poals
could with much dificuelty Stem the Current, passed a large Island on
the S. S. Called by the Inds. Wau-car-ba war-con-da or the Bear Medison
Island, at 12 oClock came to on the Island and put in a mast, detained
four hours, exceedingly hot, wind in forepart of the day from the S. E,
George Drewyer informs that the Lands he pass through yesterday & to
day on the S. S. was generally Verry fine he Saw two Springs of fresh
water near the Island, Deer Sign has become So Common it is hardly
necessary to mention them, we Camped after dark on the S. S. opposit
the 1st old Village of the Kanzas which was Situated in a Valley
between two points of high land, on the river back of their village
commenced an extensive Prarie a large Island in front which appears to
have made on that Side and thrown the Current of the river against the
place the Village formerly Stood, and washes away the bank in that
part. The french formerly had a Fort at this place, to protect the
trade of this nation, the Situation appears to be a verry elligable one
for a Town, the valley rich & extensive, with a Small Brook Meanding
through it and one part of the bank affording yet a good Landing for
Boats The High Lands above the Fere river on each Side of the
Missouries appear to approach each other much nearer than below that
plaice, being from 3 to 6 miles between them, to the Kansas, above that
place from 3 to 5 Ms. apart and higher Some places being 160 or 180
feet the river not So wide We made a Mast of Cotton wood, to day in the
Course of the evening & night it turned of a butifull red Colour
[Clark, July 2, 1804]
July 2nd, 1804 Set out early and proceeed on the left of the islands,
two of which are large a high bottom Situated on the L. S. passed the
mouth of a Creek on the S. S. Called Turquie Creike, at this place I
observed that the river was Crouded with Drift wood, and dangerous to
pass as this dead timber Continued only about half an our, I concluded
that Some Island of Drift had given way (3) passed a Creek on the L. S.
called Turky Creek, a bad Sand bar on the L. S. we could with
dificuelty Stem the Current with our 20 oars & and all the poles we
had, passed a large Island on the S. S. Called by the Indians
Wau-car-ba war-cand-da or the Bear Medesin Island, at 12 oClock landed
on the Island & put up a mast which detained us four hours--a verry hot
day winds from the S. E.--George Drewyer inform's that the Lands he
passed through yesterday and to day on the S. S. was verry fine, few
Springs, we Camped after dark on the S. S. above the Island & opposit
the 1st old village of the Kanzes which was Situated in a valley,
between two points of high Land, and imediatly on the river bank, back
of the village and on a riseing ground at about one mile The French had
a garrison for Some time and made use of water out of a Spring running
into Turkey Creek. an extensive Prarie, as the Current of the river
Sets against the banke and washes it away the landing place for Boats
is indifferent--The high lands above the Fire river, approaches nearer
each than below, being from 3 to 6 miles distant and above Kansas from
3 to 5 miles distant and the Hills at Some places are from 160 to 180
feet above the bottom
[Clark, July 3, 1804]
July 3rd 1804 Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on under a
gentle Breeze from the South passed two Islands one a Small Willow
Island on the L. S. (1) The other a large Island Called Cow 1. (Isle
Vache), this Island is large, opposit to the head on the S. S. is a (2)
large Pond, a Bad Sand bar on the S. S. we attemptd without Success, &
was oblige to Cross back, I Saw a White horse on the L. S. in view of
the upper point of the Island, (3) passed a large Sand bar at the S.
point, we halted to day about a mile above the Island and found a
horse, which had been lost by the Indians, verry fat and jentle, Sent
him on to join the others which was ahead on the L S at this place, the
french had a tradeing house, for to trade with the Kanzes on a high
bottom on the L. S. near the hills which is Prarie proceeded on round a
large Sand bar on the L. S. & Camped (opposit a large Sand bar in the
middle of the river). on the L. S. a Butifull Small Stream passes back
of the trading house, before mentioned
[Clark, July 3, 1804]
July 3rd, Tusday 1804
Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze
from the S. passed two Islands (1) one a Small willow Island on the L.
S. the other large Called by the french Isle de Vache or Cow Island,
opposit the head on the S. S. is a large Pond Containg Beever, & fowl,
a bad Sandbar on the S. S. above the Island, on the L. S. we halted at
an old Tradeing house, here we found a verry fat horse, which appears
to have been lost a long time a butifull Small run passes back of the
Tradeing house near the high land, we came to at a round bend on the L.
S. and Camped
[Clark, July 4, 1804]
July 4th Wednesday 1804, Set out early passed the mouth of a Beyeue
leading from a Lake on the S. S. this Lake is large and was once the
bend of the River, it reaches Parrelel for Several miles, Came to on
the L. S. to Dine & rest a Short time, a Snake bit Jo. Fields on the
Side of his foot which Swelled much, apply Barks to the wound, pass a
Creek on the L. S. about 15 yards wide cuming out of an extensive
Prarie as this Creek has no name, and this day is the 4th of July, we
name this Independance us. Creek above this Creek the wood land is
about 200 yards, back of those wood is an extensive Prarie open and
high, which may be Seen six or seven below--Saw great Nos. of Goslins
to day nearly Grown, the last mentioned prarie I call Jo Fields Snake
Prarie, Capt Lewis walked on Shore & Saw a large moun & 3 roads leading
We Camped in the plain one of the most butifull Plains, I ever Saw,
open & butifully diversified with hills & vallies all presenting
themselves to the river covered with grass and a few scattering trees a
handsom Creek meandering thro at this place the Kansaw Inds. formerly
lived and had a verry large Town passed a Creek (4) I observed Spring
braking out of the bank, a good Situation for a fort on a hill at the
upper part
The Plains of this countrey are covered with a Leek Green Grass, well
calculated for the sweetest and most norushing hay-interspersed with
Cops of trees, Spreding ther lofty branchs over Pools Springs or Brooks
of fine water. Groops of Shrubs covered with the most delicious froot
is to be seen in every direction, and nature appears to have exerted
herself to butify the Senery by the variety of flours Delicately and
highly flavered raised above the Grass, which Strikes & profumes the
Sensation, and amuses the mind throws it into Conjecterng the cause of
So magnificent a Senerey in a Country thus Situated far removed from
the Sivilised world to be enjoyed by nothing but the Buffalo Elk Deer &
Bear in which it abounds & Savage Indians
The names of the french Ingishees, or Hirelens-
in Perogue
1 Battist de Shone Patrn
2 Joseph Le bartee
3 Lasoness
4 Paul Preemau
5 Chalo
6 E. Cann
7 Roie
8 Charlo Cougee
in the large Boat
*J. Le bartee
Rivee
bow men
Pieter Crousatt half Indian
William La Beice Mallat
3 Sergts. & 23 men for the Boat
George Drewyer. Hunter & 4 Horses
1 Corpl & 4 Privates in a Perogue to be Sent back from Plate
river
Mr. Dueron inteptr for the Sues Capt. Lewis my Self & York
in all 46 men July 4th 4 horses & a Dog
[Clark, July 4, 1804]
July 4th Wednesday ussered in the day by a discharge of one shot from
our Bow piece, proceeded on, passed the mouth of a (1) Bayeau lading
from a large Lake on the S. S. which has the apperance of being once
the bed of the river & reaches parrelel for Several Miles Came to on
the L. S. to refresh ourselves &. Jos. Fields got bit by a Snake, which
was quickly doctered with Bark by Cap Lewis. (2) Passed a Creek 12 yds.
wide on L. S. comeing out of an extensive Prarie reching within 200
yards of the river, as, this Creek has no name, and this being the we
Dine (on corn) the 4th of July the day of the independance of the U. S.
call it 4th of July 1804 Creek, Capt. Lewis walked on Shore above this
Creek and discovered a high moun from the top of which he had an
extensive view, 3 paths Concentering at the moun Saw great numbers of
Goslings to day which Were nearly grown, the before mentioned Lake is
clear and Contain great quantities of fish an Gees & Goslings, The
great quantity of those fowl in this Lake induce me to Call it the
Gosling Lake, a Small Creek & Several Springs run in to the Lake on the
East Side from the hills the land on that Side verry good--(3) We came
to and camped in the lower edge of a Plain where 2d old Kanzas village
formerly Stood, above the mouth of a Creek 20 yds wide this Creek we
call Creek Independence as we approached this place the Praree had a
most butifull appearance Hills & Valies interspsd with Coops of Timber
gave a pleasing deversity to the Senery. the right fork of Creek
Independence Meandering thro the middle of the Plain a point of high
Land near the river givs an allivated Situation. at this place the
Kanzas Indians formerley lived. this Town appears to have covd. a large
Space, the nation must have been noumerous at the time they lived here,
the Cause of their moveing to the Kanzas River, I have never heard, nor
Can I learn; war with their neghbors must have reduced this nation and
Compelled them to retire to a Situation in the plains better Calculated
for their defence and one where they may make use of their horses with
good effect, in persueing their enemey, we Closed the by a Discharge
from our bow piece, an extra Gill of whiskey.
[Clark, July 5, 1804]
July the 5th 1804 Set out verry early this morning, Swam the horse
across the river, proceeded on for two miles under the bank where the
old Kansas town formerly stood The Cause of those people moveing from
this place I cannot learn, but naterally conclude that War has reduced
their nation & compelled them to retire further into the Plains with a
view of defending themselves & opposeing their enemey (more effectuall)
on hors back (I neglected to mention yesterday that the Lake on the S.
S. was large Say 3/4 me. wide & 7 or 8 long one creek & Several brooks
running into it from the hills, it contains Great quantities of Sun
fish & Gosling's from which we gave it the name,) passed Some verry bad
Sand bars Situated parrelel to each other, (1) the Boat turned three
times once on the ____ of a Drift wood. She recved no proceiviable
damage, we came to for Dinner at a Beever house, Cap Lewis's Dog Seamon
went in & drove them out. the high Lands on the L. S. is open, a few
trees Scattering (2) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. in the 1s bend
to the left I call yellow oaker creek from a bank of that Mineral just
above. we camped on the L. S. under a high bank Latd. 39° 25' 41" North
on the banks of this river I observe great quants of Grapes, berries &
roses Deer is not So plenty in this three days past as they were below
that. Elks are plenty about those Praries. Some Buffalow Sign.
[Clark, July 5, 1804]
July 5th Thursday 1804
Set out verry early, proceeded on near the bank where the old village
Stood for two miles, (Swam the hors found a few days ago) passed Some
bad Sand bars, The Origan of this old village is uncertain M. de
Bourgmont a French officer who Comdd. a fort near the Town of the
Missouris in about the year 1724 and in July of the Same year he
visited this Village at that time the nation was noumerous & well
desposed towards the french Mr. Du Pratz must have been badly informed
as to the Cane opposd this place we have not Seen one Stalk of reed or
cane on the Missouries, he States that the "Indians that accompanied M
De Bourgmont Crossed to the Canzes Village on floats of Cane"
Those people must have been verry noumerous at that time as Mr. De B.
was accompanied by 300 Warriers, 500 young people & 300 Dogs of burthen
out of this Village
The Cause of Those Indians moveing over to the Kanzis river I have
never lernt--we passed Some bad Sand bars, Situated parrelel to each
other (1) The Boat turned twice on the quick Sand & once on a raft of
Drift, no procievable damage Prarie Contine on the high land on the L.
S. passd a Small Creek (2) on L. S. in the first bend to the L S. I
call Yellow-Oaker Creek from a quantity of that Mineral in a bank a
little above
The river Continue to fall a little--I observe great quantities of
Summer & fall Grapes, Berries & Wild roases on the banks--Deer is not
so plenty as usual, great Deel of Elk Sign. (Wind from S E)
[Clark, July 6, 1804]
6th July Friday. We Set out early this morning & Proceeded on (the
river falls Slowly) wind S. W) passed a Sand bar in 1st bend to the
right (1) passed a Small Island at the S. pt. a verry warm day (worthy
of remark that the water of this river or Some other Cause, I think
that the most Probable throws out a greater preposn. of Swet than I
could Suppose Could pass thro the humane body Those men that do not
work at all will wet a Shirt in a Few minits & those who work, the Swet
will run off in Streams) opposit the 3rd point passed a Prarie on the
S. S. Called Reeveys Prarie (fro a man of that name being Killed in it)
opposit this Prarie the river is Confined in a verry narrow Space
Crowded on S. S. by Sands which were moveing and difficuelt to pass.
the Hunts. Sent in 3 Deer Jurked on the 4th point of to day is a Small
Island & a Sand bar 2 miles out in the river, this is Called the Grand
Bend, or Grande de Tour, I walked on this Sand bar found it a light
Sand intersperced with Small Pebbles of various Kinds, also pit Coal of
an excellent quallity was lodged on the Sand, We camped on the L. S. at
a small creek a whiper will perched on the boat for a Short time, I
gave his name to the Creek
[Clark, July 6, 1804]
July 6th, Friday We Set out early this morning, wind from the S. W.
passed a large Sand bar in the 1st. bend to the right. (1) passed a
Small Island at the S. point opposit the 3rd point we passed a Prarie
on the S. S. Called Reeveys Prarie at this place the river is Confined
in a verry narrow Channel Crouded by a Sand bar from the L. Point This
Sand bar from the L. Point, this Sand bar is verry bad, at the 4th
Point from the S. S. is a verry extensive bar, at the Point of which is
a Small willow Island this is Called the Grand Detour or Great bend
I walked on this Sand bar and found the Sand was light, with Collection
of Small pebble, & some Pit Coal I observe that the men Swet more than
is Common from Some Cause, I think the Missouries water is the
principal Cause our hunters Sent in 3 Bucks today The river Still fall
a little
[Clark, July 7, 1804]
7th of July Satturday 1804 Set out early passed Some verry Swift water
on the L. S. which Compelled us to Draw up by the Cord. a verry warm
morning, passed a butifull Prarie on the right Side which extends back,
those Praries has much the appearance from the river of farms, Divided
by narrow Strips of woods those Strips of timber grows along the runs
which rise on the hill & pass to the river a Cleft above, one man sick
(Frasure) Struck with the Sun, Saw a large rat on the Side of the bank,
Killed a wolf on the Bank passed (2) a verry narrow part of the river,
all confined within 200 yards, a yellow bank above, passed a Small
willow Island on the S. point, (in Low water those Small Willow Islands
are joined to the Sand bars makeing out from the Points) a pond on the
S. S near the prarie we passed yesterday in which G D. Saw Several
young Swans we Came to and Camped on the L. S. and two men Sent out
last evening with the horses did not join us this evening agreeable to
orders--a hard wind with Some rain from the N, E at 7 oClock which
lasted half an hour, with thunder & lightning. river fall a little
[Clark, July 7, 1804]
July the 7th Satturday 1804 Set out early passed Some Swift water,
which obliged us to draw up by roapes, a Sand bare at the point opposit
a butifull Prarie on the S. Side Calld. (1) St. Michul, those Praries
on the river has verry much the appearence of farms from the river
Divided by narrow Strips of wood land, which wood land is Situatd. on
the runs leading to the river. passed a Bluff of yellow Clay above the
Prarie. Saw a large rat on the bank. Killed a Wolf. at 4 oClock pass a
Verry narrow part of the river water Confd. in a bead not more than 200
yards wide at this place the Current runs against the L. Side. no Sand
to Confine the Current on the S. S. passed a Small sand Island above
the Small Islds. Situated at the points, in low water form a part of
the Sand bars makeing out from those points
Incamped on the S. S. at 7 oClock a Violent Ghust of wind from the N.
E. with Some rain, which lasted half an hour (G D. informs me that he
Saw in a Pond on the S. S. which we passed yesterday; a number of young
Swans-,) one man verry Sick, Struck with the Sun, Capt. Lewis bled him
& gave Niter which has revived him much
[Clark, July 8, 1804]
8th of July Sunday Set out early this morning, the Sick man much
better, Serjt. Oddeway was waiting at a Creek on the S. S. below an
Island, passed (1) two Island on the S. S. and came to at the upper
point, G Drewyer went out R. Fields & Guterich, five men Sick to day
with a violent Head ake &c. and Several with Boils, we appoint a Cook
to each mess to take Charge of the Provisions. in Serjt. Pryor's =
Collens in Sjt. Ordway's Werner in Sergt. Floyd's Thompson, The french
men Killed a young Deer on the Bank, (2) passed up a narrow Channel of
about 80 or 100 yds wide about 5 miles to the mouth of Nadawa River
which corns in to this channel from the N W. and is abt. 70 yards wide
at its mouth ____ feet Deep and has a jentle Current, Perogues can
navagate this river near its head, which is between the Missourie & the
Grand River, passed up the gut 3/4 of a mile to the river at the head
of the Island & camped opposit the head of this Island is another
nearest the Middle R this Island Nadawa is the largest I have Seen,
formed by a Channel washing into the Nadawa river.--"8 or 10000 acrs"
[Clark, July 8, 1804]
July the 8th Sunday 1804
Set out early passed a Small Creek on the S. S. and two (1) Small
Islands on the S S. five men Sick to day with a violent head ake &c. we
made Some arrangements as to provisions & Messes, came to for Dinner at
the lower point of a very large Island Situated near the S. S. after a
delay of two hours we passed a narrow channel of 45 to 80 yds wide five
miles to the mouth of (3) Nkdawa River, This river Coms in from the
North and is navagable for Perogues Some distance. it is about 70 yards
wide a little above the mouth, at the mouth not So wide, the mud of the
Gut running out of the Missourie is thrown and Settles in the mouth
half a mile higher up this Channel or gut is the upper point of the
Said Island, This Island is Called Nadawa, & is the largest I have Seen
in the river, containing 7 or 8000 acres of Land Seldom overflowed we
Camped at the head of this Island on the S. S. opposit the head or our
Camp is a Small Island near the middle of the river, river Still
falling. our flank party did not join us this evening
[Lewis, July 8, 1804]
Detachment Orders
Nadawa Island July 8th 1804.-
In order to insure a prudent and regular use of all provisions issued
to the crew of the Batteaux in future, as also to provide for the equal
distribution of the same among the individuals of the several messes,
The Commanding Officers Do appoint the following persons to recieve,
cook, and take charges of the provisions which may from time to time be
issued to their respective messes, (viz) John B. Thompson to Sergt.
Floyd's mess,
William Warner to Sergt. Ordway's mess, and John Collins to Sergt.
Pryor's Mess.--These Superintendants of Provision, are held immediately
respon sible to the commanding Officers for a judicious consumption of
the provi sion which they recieve; they are to cook the same for their
several messes in due time, and in such manner as is most wholesome and
best calculated to afford the greatest proportion of nutriment; in
their mode of cooking they are to exercise their own judgment; they
shall allso point out what part, and what proportion of the mess
provisions are to be consumed at each stated meal (i. e.) morning, noon
and night; nor is any man at any time to take or consume any part of
the mess provisions without the privity, knowledge and consent of the
Superintendant. The superintendant is also held responsible for all the
cooking eutensels of his mess. in considera tion of the duties imposed
by this order on Thompson, Warner, and Collins, they will in future be
exempt from guard duty, tho they will still be held on the royster for
that duty, and their regular tour-shall be per formed by some one of
their rispective messes; they are exempted also from pitching the tents
of the mess, collecting firewood, and forks poles &c. for cooking and
drying such fresh meat as may be furnished them; those duties are to be
also performed by the other members of the mess.
M. Lewis
Wm. Clark
[Clark, July 9, 1804]
July the 9th Monday 1804 Sent one man back to the mouth of the River to
mark a tree, to let the party on Shore See that the Boat had passed the
river, Set out early passed (1) the head of the Island Situated in the
middle of the river a Sand bar at the head, (2) passed the mouth of a
Creek or Bayou on the S. S. leading from a large Pond of about three
miles in length, at 8 oClock it commenced raining, the wind changed
from N E. to S. W. (3) at 6 miles passed the mouth of a Small Creek on
the L. S. called Monters Creek, the river at this place is wide with a
Sand bar in the Middle, passed a place on the L. S. about 2 miles above
the Creek, where Several french men camped two years to hunt--(4)
passed a Island on the S S. of the river in a bend, opsd. a high Land
on the L. S. wind Shifted to the N. W. in the evining, opsd. this
Island, and on the L. S. Loup or Wolf River Coms in, this river is
about 60 yards Wide, but little water running at the mouth, this river
heads with the waters of the Kanzas, and has a perogue navigation Some
distance, it abounds with Beaver, Camped opposit the head of the Island
on the L. S. Saw a fire on the S. S. Supposedly the four flankers, to
be theire, Sent a perogue for them, the Patroon & Bowman of the Perogue
French, they returned & informed, that when they approached the fire,
it was put out, which caused them to return, this report causd. us to
look out Supposeing a pty. of Soux going to war, firierd the bow piec
to allarm & put on their guard the men on Shore everey thing in
readiness for Defence.
[Clark, July 9, 1804]
July 9th Monday 1804
one man Sent back to the river we passed last night to Blase a tree
with a view to notify the party on Shore of our passing Set out and
passed the head of the (1) Island which was Situated opposit to our
Camp last night a Sand bar at the head (2) opsd. this Island a Creek or
Bayaue Corns in from a large Pond on the Starboard Side, as our
flanking party Saw great numbers of Pike in this Pond, I have laid it
down with that name anex'd,v at 8 oClock the wind Shifted from the N, E
to S W and it commenced raining. (3) at Six miles passed the mouth of
Creek on the L. S. Called Monter's Creek, about two mile above is some
Cabins where our Bowman & Several frenchmen Campd. two years (4) passed
an Island on the S. S. in a Bend of the river opposit Some Clifts on
the L. S. the wind Shifted to the N W opposit this Island and on the L.
Side (Loup) or Wolf River Coms in, this river is about 60 yards wide
and heads with the waters of the Kansis, and is navagable for Perogues
"Some destance up" Camped at a point on the L. S. opposit the head of
the Island, our party was incamped on the Opposit Side, their not
answering our Signals Caused us to Suspect the persons Camped opposit
to us was a war party of Soux, we fired the Bow piece to alarm the
party on Shore, ailed prepared to oppose if attacted
[Clark, July 10, 1804]
July 10th Tuesday Set out this morning with a view to Land near the
fire Seen last night, & recornetre, but Soon discovered that our men
were at the fire, they were a Sleep early last evening, and from the
Course of the Wind which blew hard, their yells were not heard by party
in the perogue, a mistake altogether-. proceeded on, passed Prarie on
the upper Side of Woolf River, at 4 miles passed (1) a Small Creek L.
S. Called R. Pape this Creek is about 15 yds. Wide-and called after a
Spanierd who killed himself at the mouth. (2) Dined on an Island Called
de Selamen and delayed 3 hours, and proceeded on, opposit this Isld. on
the L. S. is a (3) butifull Bottom Prarie whuch will Contain about 2000
acres of Land covered with wild rye & wild Potatoes, gread numbers of
Goslings on the Banks & in the Ponds near the river, Capt Lewis Killed
two this evening, we came to & Camped for the night. at a point on the
S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift.--our men all getting well but much
fatigued, the river is on a Stand nether rise nor fall, The bottom on
the S. S. is verry extensive & thick. the Hills or high land is near
the river on the L. S. and but thinly timbered, back of those hills is
open plains.
[Clark, July 10, 1804]
July 10th Tuesday 1804
Set out early this morning and Crossd the river with a view to See who
the party was that Camped on the other Side, we Soon discovered them to
be our men,--proceeded on passed a Prarie on the L. S. at 4 miles
passed a Creek L. S Called (1) Pappie after a man who Killed himself at
its mouth, this Creek is 15 yds wide--(2) Dined on an Isld. Called de
Salamin Delayed 3 hours on this Island to recruit the men opposit on
the L. S. is a butifull bottom Plain of about 2000 acres (3) Covered
with wild rye & Potatoes, intermix't with the grass, we camped on the
S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift, Capt. Lewis Killed two young Gees or
Goslings this evening--The men of the party getting better, but much
fatigued--The river on a Stand--The bottom is verry extensive on the S.
S. and thickly intersperced with Vines The High Land approaches near
the river on the L. S. and well timbered next to the river, back of
those hills the Plains Commence.
[Clark, July 11, 1804]
July 11th Wednesday, Set out early proceeded on passed a Willow (1)
Island in a bend to the S. S. Sent out Dreweyer & Jo. Fields to hunt,
Back of this Island a creek corns in on the S. S. called by the Indians
Little Tarkio Creek I went on Shore above this Island on the S. S.
found the bottom Subject for overflow wet and verry thickly interwoven
with grape Vines--proceeded on at about 1/2 a miles from the river
about 3 ms. and observed fresh Sign of a horse, I prosueed the track,
with an expectation of finding a Camp of Indians on the river, when I
got to the river, I saw a horse on the Beech, this horse as appears was
left last winter by Some hunting party, probable the Othouez, I joined
the Boat on the Sand Island Situated opposit the mouth of the Ne Ma har
River, this river Coms in on the L. S. is about 80 yds Wide and
navagable for Perogues Some Distance up the praries Commnce above the
mouth and Continus on both Sides of this R Drewyer killed 6 Deer to day
J. Field one Several hunters Sent out up the Nemahar R
[Clark, July 11, 1804]
July 11th, Wednesday 1804
Set out early passed a Willow Island (1) in a bend on the S. S. back of
this Island a Creek Corns in Called by the Indians Tar-ki-o
I went on Shore above this Creek and walked up parrelel with the river
at ab ut half a mile distant, the bottom I found low & Subject to
overflow, Still further out, the under groth & vines wer So thick that
I could not get thro with ease after walking about three or 4 miles I
observed a fresh horse track where he had been feeding I turned my
course to the river and prosud the track and found him on a Sand beach
This horse Probably had been left by Some party of Otteaus hunters who
wintered or hunted in this quarter last fall or Wintr. I joined the
party on a large Sand Island imediately opposit the mouth of Ne Ma haw
River, at which place they had Camped, this Island is Sand about half
of it Covered with Small Willows of two different Kinds, one Narrow &
the other a Broad Leaf. Several hunters Sent out to day on both Sides
of the river, Seven Deer Killed to day. Drewyer Killd Six of them, made
Some Luner observations this evening.
[Clark, July 12, 1804]
July 12th Thursday Som hunters out on the S. S. those on the L. S. did
not return last night, our object in delaying here is to tak Some
Observations and rest the men who are much fatigued made Sundery
observations, after an early Brackfast I took five men and went up the
River Ne Ma har about three miles, to an open leavel part of an emence
prarie, at the Mouth of a Small Creek on the Lower Side, I went on
Shore, & passed thro the plain passed Several noles to the top of a
high artificial Noal from the top of this noal I had an emence,
extensive & pleaseing prospect, of the Countrey around, I could See the
meandering of the Little River for at least 10 miles winding thro a
meadow of 15 or 20000 acres of high bottom land covered with Grass
about 41/2 feet high, the high lands which rose irregularly, & were
toped with Mounds or antent Graves which is to me a Strong evidence of
this Countrey haveing been thickly Settled-.This River is about 80
yards wide with a gentle Current and heads up near the Parnee Village
on River Blue a branch of Kansas, a little timbered land near the mouth
for 1 mile above, only a fiew Trees, and thickets of Plumbs Cheres &c
are Seen on its banks the Creeks & little reveens makeing into the
river have also Some timber--I got grapes on the banks nearly ripe,
observed great quantities, of Grapes, plums Crab apls and a wild
Cherry, Growing like a Comn. Wild Cherry only larger & grows on a Small
bush, on the side of a clift Sand Stone 1/2 me. up & on Lower Side I
marked my name & day of the month near an Indian Mark or Image of
animals & a boat Tried Willard for Sleeping on his post, our hunters
killed some Deer, Saw Elk & Buffalow.
[Clark, July 12, 1804]
July 12th, Thursday 1804
Concluded to Delay here to day with a view of takeing equal altitudes &
makeing observations as well as refreshing our men who are much
fatigued--after an early Brackfast I with five men in a Perogue
assended the River Ne-Ma-haw about 2 miles to the mouth of a Small
Creek on the Lower Side, here I got out of the Perogue, after going to
Several Small Mounds in a leavel plain, I assended a hill on the Lower
Side, on this hill Several Artificial Mounds were raised, from the top
of the highest of those Mounds I had an extensive view of the
Serounding Plains, which afforded one of the most pleasing prospects I
ever beheld, under me a Butifull River of Clear water of about 80 yards
wide Meandering thro a leavel and extensive Meadow, as far as I could
See, the prospect Much enlivened by the fine Trees & Srubs which is
bordering the bank of the river, and the Creeks & runs falling into
it,-. The bottom land is covered with Grass of about 41/2 feet high,
and appears as leavel as a Smoth Surfice, the 2 bottom is also covered
with Grass and rich weeds & flours, interspersed with Copses of the
Osage Plumb. on the riseing lands, Small groves of trees are Seen, with
a numbers of Grapes and a Wild Cherry resembling the Common Wild
Cherry, only larger and grows on a Small bush on the tops of those
hills in every derection. I observed artifical mounds (or as I may more
justly term Graves) which to me is a Strong indication of this Country
being once Thickly Settled. (The Indians of the Missouris Still Keep up
the Custom of Burrying their dead on high ground) after a ramble of
about two miles about I returned to the perogue and decended down the
River, gathd. Som grapes nearly ripe, on a Sandstone Bluff about 1/4 of
a mile from its mouth on the Lower Side I observed Some Indian marks,
went to the rock which jutted over the water and marked my name & the
day of the month & year--This river heads near one of the Villages of
the Pania on the River Blue, a branch of the Kansas River.--above this
river about half a mile the Prarie Comes to the Missouri after my
return to Camp on the Island Completed Som observations, Tred tried a
man for sleeping on his Post & inspected the arms amunition &c. of the
party found all complete, Took Some Luner Obsevations. three Deer
killed to day. Latd. 39° 55' 56" N.
[Lewis and Clark, July 12, 1804]
Camp New Island July 12th 1804.
A Court matial consisting of the two commanding officers will convene
this day at 1 OCk. P.M. for the trial of such prisoners as may be
brought before them; one of the court will act as judge Advocate.
M. Lewis
Wm. Clark
The Commanding officers. Capt. M. Lewis & W. Clark constituted
themselves a Court martial for the trial of Such prisoners as are
Guilty of Capatol Crimes, and under the rules and articles of War
punishable by Death,
Alexander Willard was brought foward Charged with "Lying down and
Sleeping on his post whilst a Sentinal, on the night of the 11th.
Instant" (by John Ordway Sergeant of the Guard)
To this Charge the prisoner pleads. Guilty of Lying Down, and not
Guilty, of Going to Sleep. The Court after Duly Considering the
evidence aduced, are of oppinion that the Prisoner Alexdn. Willard is
guilty of every part of the Charge exhibited against him. it being a
breach of the rules and articles of War (as well as tending to the
probable distruction of the party) do Sentence him to receive One
hundred lashes on his bear back, at four different times in equal
propation.--and order that the punishment Commence this evening at
Sunset, and Continue to be inflicted, (by the Guard) every evening
untill Completed
Wm Clark
M. Lewis
[Clark, July 13, 1804]
My notes of the 13th of July by a Most unfortunate accident blew over
Board in a Storm in the morning of the 14th obliges me to refur to the
Journals of Serjeants, and my own recollection the accurrences Courses
Distance &c. of that day--last night a violent Storm from the N. N, E.-
(1) passed Tar-ki-o River, at 2 miles a chant. running into this river
3 ms. abov forms St Josephs Isld. Passed an elegt Prarie in the 1st
bend to the left. Containg a grass resmlg Timothy, with Seed like flax,
(2) passed a Island in a bend to the S. S. at 12 ms. I walked on Shore
S. S. lands, low & overflows, Killed two Goslings nearly Grown, Sailed
under a Wind from the South all day, Camped on a Sand Island on the L.
Pt. opposit a high & extensiv Prarie, on the S. S. the Hills about 4 or
5 me. off, this Plain appears extensive, great appearance of a Storm
from the North W. this evening verry agreeable the wind Still from the
South-
from the Osagies Nation with twenty odd of the Natives or chiefs of the
Nation with him sailed dowen the Mississippi bound to St Louis & 3 guns
fired showers of rain Showers of Rain all that night
[Clark, July 13, 1804]
July 13th Friday 1804
Set out at Sun rise, and prosd. on under a gentle Breeze, at two miles
passed the mouth of a Small river on the S. S. Called by the Indians
Tarki-o, a Channel running out of the river three miles above (which is
now filled up with Sand) runs into this Creek & and formed a Island
Called St.
Josephs Several Sand bars parralel to each other above--In the first
bend to the left is Situated a Butifull & extensive plain, Cover'd with
Grass resembling Timothy except the Seed which resembles Flax Seed,
this plain also abounds in Grapes of defferent Kinds Some nearly ripe.
I Killed two Goslings nearly Grown, Several others Killed and cought on
Shore, also one old Goose, with pin fethers, She Could not fly--at
about 12 miles passd. a Island Situated in a bend on the S. S. above
this Island is a large Sand bar Covered with willows. The wind from the
South, Camped on a large Sand Bar makeing out from the L. P. opposit a
high hanson Prarie, the hills about 4 or 5 miles on S. S. this plain
appeard extensive, the Clouds appear to geather to the N. W. a most
agreeable Breeze from the South (I walked on Shore on the S. S. the
lands are low Subject to overflow)
Last night at about 10 oClock a violent Storm of wind from the N. N. E.
which lasted with Great violence for about one hour, at which time a
Shower of rain Succeeded.
The men on Shore did not join us this after noon--The river nearly on a
Stand--the high lands on the S. S. has only been Seen at a Distance
above the Nordaway River, those on the S. L. aproaching the river at
every bend, on the Side next to the river well timbered, the opsd. Side
open & the Commencmt. of Plains.
[Clark, July 14, 1804]
July the 14th Satturday Some hard Shours of rain accompaned with Some
wind detained us untill about 7 oClock, we then Set out and proceeded
on about a mile and th atmispeir became Suddenly darkened by a blak &
dismal looking Cloud, we wer in a Situation, near the upper point of a
Sd. Isd. & the opsd Shore falling in in this Situation a Violent Storm
of Wint from the N, E (passing over an Open plain, Struck the boat
nearly Starboard, quatering, & blowing down the Current) the exerssions
of all our Men who were out in an instant, aded to a Strong Cable and
Anchor was Scrcely Sufficent to Keep the boat from being thrown up on
the Sand Island, and dashed to peices the Waves dasthed over on the
Side next to the wind the lockers which was covered with Tarpoling
prevented them coming into the boat untill the Boat was Creaned on the
Side from the Wind in this Situation we continued about 40 minits, the
two perogues about a quater of a mile above, one of them in a Similer
Situation with the Boat, the other under the charge of George Gibson in
a much better position, with her Ster faceing the wind, this Storm
Suddenly Seased, & 1 minit the river was as Smoth as glass, the wind
Shifted to the S. E and we Set Sail, and proceeded on passed (1) a
Small Island on the S. S. and Dined--R. Fields who has charge of the
horses &c. on Shore did not join us last night-. passed a old fort
where Mr. Bennet of St Louis winttered 2 years & traded with the
Otteaus & Parties on the S. S. 1 me. abov the little Island, I went out
on the L. S. and observed two Elk on a land in the river, in attempting
to get near those elk obseved one near us I Shot one. continued on
Shore & thro the bottom which was extensive, Some Small Praries, and a
peponce of high rich & well timbered bottom, in the Glades I saw wild
Timothy, Lams quarter Cuckle burs & rich weed, on the edges Plumbs of
different kinds Grapes, and Goose berries, Camped on the L. S. Ruben
Fields and Gulrich joined the Party two men unwell, one a Felin on his
finger, river fall
[Clark, July 14, 1804]
July 14th, Satturday 1804
Some hard Showers of rain this morning prevented our Setting out untill
7 oClock, at half past Seven, the atmispr. became Sudenly darkened by a
black and dismal looking Cloud, at the time we were in a Situation (not
to be bettered) near the upper point of the Sand Island, on which we
lay, and the opposit Shore, the bank was falling in and lined with
Snags as far as we could See down,-. in this Situation The Storm which
passd over an open Plain from the N. E. Struck the our boat on the
Starbd. quarter, and would have thrown her up on the Sand Island dashed
to peces in an Instant, had not the party leeped out on the Leward Side
and kept her off with the assistance of the ancker & Cable, untill the
Storm was over, the waves Dashed over her windward Side and She must
have filled with water if the Lockers which is covered with Tarpoling &
Threw of the water & prevented any quantity Getting into Bilge of the
Boat
In this Situation we continued about 40 Minits. when the Storm Sudenly
Seased and the river become Instancetaniously as Smoth as Glass.
The two perogus dureing this Storm was in a Similar Situation with the
boat about half a mile above--The wind Shifted to the S. E & We Saled
up passed a Small (1) Isld. Situated on the S. S. and Dined & Continud
two hours, men examine their arms--about a Mile above this Island,
passed a Small Tradeing fort on the S. S. where, Mr. Bennet of St.
Louis Traded with the Otteaus & Panies two years. I went on Shore to
Shoot Some Elk on a Sand bar to the L. S. I fired at one but did not
get him, went out into a large extensive bottom the greater part of
which overflows, the part that dose not overflow, is rich and well
timbered, Some Small open Praries near the hills, the Boat passed the
lower part of a large Island Situated on the S. S. above the Lower
point of this Island on the S. S. a (2) large Creek corns into the
river Called by the Maha's Indians Neesh-nah-ba-to-na 50 yds this is a
considerable Creek nearly as large as the Mine River, and runs parrelel
with the Missouri, the Greater part of its Course. In those Small
Praries or glades I saw wild Timothey, lambs-quarter, Cuckle burs; &
rich weed. on the edges Grows Sumr. Grapes, Plum's, & Gooseberries. I
Joined the boat which had Came to and Camped in a bend opposd. the
large Island before mentioned on the L. S. Several men unwell with
Boils, Felns, &c. The river falls a little.
[Clark, July 15, 1804]
July 15th Sunday 1804. a heavy fog this morning which Detained us
untill 7 oClock, put Drewyer Sgt. Floyd on Shore, at 9 I took two Men
and went on Shore, with a view to Kill Some elk, passed thro open
plains, and barroney lands Crossed three butifull Small Streams of
water, Saw great quantity of Cherres Plums, Grapes & Berries of Difft.
Kinds, the lands Generally of a good quallity, on the Streams the wood
escapes the fire, at about 7 miles I Struck the river at the mouth Ne
ma har Creek about 40 yds wide, near this Creek on a high part of the
Prarie I had a extensive View of the river & Countrey on both Sides. on
S. a contnuation of the plain as far as I could See, on the N. a bottom
Prarie of about 5 ms. wide & 18 or 20 long, hills back of this Plain. I
Swam across the Creek and waited for the Boat about three miles above,
we camped opsd. an Island.
[Clark, July 15, 1804]
July 15th, Sunday a heavy Fog this morning prevented our Setting out
before 7 oClock, at nine I took two men and walked on the L. S. I
crossed three butifull Streems of runnig water heading in the Praries
on those Streem the lands verry fine covered with pea Vine & rich weed
the high Praries are also good land Covered with Grass entirely void of
timber except what grows on the water, I proceeded on thro those
praries Several miles to the mouth of a large Creek on the L. S. called
(2) Ne ma har this is a Small river, about 100 yds. above the mouth it
is 40 yards wide, at the mouth (as all other Creeks & rivers falling
into the Missourie are) much narrower than a little distance up. after
continueing at the mouth of this Creek about an hour, I Swam across and
proceeded on about 3 miles and halted to wate for the boat, which was
Some distance below--In all this days march thro woods & Praries, I
only Saw three Deer & 3 fawns--I had at one part of the Prarie a verry
extensive view of all the Countrey around up and down the river a
Considerable distance, on the Larbd. Sd. one Continul Plain, on the S.
S. Some timber on the bank of the river, for a Short distance back of
this timber is a bottom Plain of four or five miles back to the hills
and under the hills between them & the river this plain appeared to
extend 20 or 30 miles, those Hills have but little timber, and the
Plain appears to Continu back of them--I Saw Great quantities of
Grapes, Plums, or 2 Kinds wild Cherries of 2 Kinds, Hazelnuts, and
Goosberries.
we Camped in a point of woods on the Larboard S. opsd. a large Island.
[Lewis, July 15, 1804]
Sunday July 15th
This evening I discovered that my Chronometer had stoped, nor can I
assign any cause for this accedent; she had been wound up the preceding
noon as usual. This is the third instance in which this instrument has
stopt in a similar manner since she nas been in my possession, tho the
first only since our departure from the River Dubois. in the two
preceding cases when she was again set in motion, and her rate of going
determined by a series of equal altitudes of the sun taken for that
purpose, it was found to be the same precisely as that mentioned in the
preliminary remarks to these observations, or 15 s & 5 tenths too slow
in 24 h-as her rate of going after stoping, and begin again set in
motion has in two instances proved to be the same, I have concluded,
that whatever this impediment may procede from, it is not caused by any
material injury which her works have sustained, and that when she is in
motion, her error on mean time above stated, may be depended on as
accurate. In consequence of the chronometer's having thus accedentally
stoped, I determined to come too at the first convenient place and make
such observations as were necessary to ascertain her error, establish
the Latitude & Longitude, and determine the variation of the nedle, in
order to fix a second point of departure.
[Clark, July 16, 1804]
July 16 1804 Monday
Set out verry early and proceeded on the Side of a Prarie passd the
head of the Island opsd. which we Camped last night, (1) passed a Small
willow Island off the L. point, hills make near the river (2) passed a
large Island nearest the L. S. below the pt. a Small willow Isd. also
one on the Side. this large Island is called fair Sun the wind
favourable from the South. Boat run on a Sawyer, (4) pass a place on
the L. S. where the hill abt. 20 acres has Sliped into the river lately
just above passed under a clift of Sand Stone L. S. a number of Burds
Nests in the holes & crevises of this rock which Continus 2 miles, (5)
passed a willow Island in a Deep bend to the S. S. river 2 mile wide at
this place, note Deed Snags across, passed the Lower point of a Island
called Isle Chauvin Situated on the L. Point opposit an extensive
Prarie on the S. S., This prarie I call Ball pated Prarie from the
range ball hills, at from 3 to 6 miles from the river as far as my
Sight will extend, we camped in a point of woods opsd. the Isd. on S.
S. in a bend.
[Clark, July 16, 1804]
July 16th Monday 1804
Set out this morning verry early and proceeded on under a gentle breeze
from the S passed the upper point of the Island an extensive Prarie on
the L. S. passed a large (1) Island Called Fair Sun Isd. a Small willow
Isld. at the lower point on the L. S. the boat passd on the L. S. of
those Islands Several Small Sand Islands in the Channel, the Boat run
on the point of a Snag, (2) passed a place above the Island L. S. where
about 20 acres of the hill has latterly Sliped into the river above a
clift of Sand Stone for about two miles, the resort of burds of
Different Kinds to reare their young. (5) Passed a willow Island in a
Deep Bend to the S. S. opposit the river is about two miles wide, and
not verry Deep as the Snag may be Seen across, Scattering, passed the
Lower point of an Island called by French Chauvin's Situated off the L.
Point opposit an extensive Prarie on the S. S. This Prarie I call Ball
gated Prarie, from a range of Ball Hills parrelel to the river & at
from 3 to 6 miles distant from it, and extends as far up & Down as I
Can See, we Camped in a point of woods on the L. S. above the Lower
point of the Island. river falling.
[Lewis, July 16, 1804]
Monday 16th we set out at an early hour; the morning was cloudy; could
find no convenient situation for observation; proceeded untill a little
before noon when we came too On the Lard. Shore opposite to the center
of good Island where I observed the meridian altitude of O's L. L. with
Octant by the back observation, wich gave me the Latitude--40° 20' 12" N.
I now set the Chronometer as near noon as this observation would enable
me, and proceeded untill evening, when we came too on the Stard. shore
opposite the lower point of the Island of the Bald prarie where we
encamped.
[Clark, July 17, 1804]
July 17th Tuesday, we concluded to lay by today to fix the Longitude,
and get the Cronometer right, (She run down Day before yesterday),
Several men out hunting to day Capt. Lewis rode out to Neesh-nahba-to
na Creek which passes thro. the Prarie (on which there is Some few
trees) within ____ Mile of the Missoureis, wind from the S E. Several
of the party have tumers of different Kinds Some of which is verry
troublesom and dificuilty to cure. I took a meridian altitude (43° 27')
which made the Lattitude of this place 40° 27' 6" 4/10 North.--(The Ball
Hills bear N 25° W for 30 mes. The bend on L. S. passing the Isd. on the
right Side is N. 28° W. 4 ms.) Took equal altitudes Tried a part of the
comn pt. of the Current in 40 Seconds the water run 50 fathem 30" & 20"
in places
Cap Lewers returned, Saw Some hand Som Countrey, the Creek near the
high land is rapid and nearly as muddy as the river, & rising Gutrich
caught two verry fat Cat fish G Drewyer Killed 3 Deer, & R Fields one,
a puff of wind brought Swarms of Misquitors, which disapeared in two
hours, blown off by a Continuation of the Same brees.
[Clark, July 17, 1804]
Bald Pated Prarie July 17th, Tuesday 1804 We Concluded lay by at this
place to day to fix the Lattitude & Longitude of this place to Correct
the cromometer run down Sunday) Several men out by day light hunting
Capt. Lewis Concid. to ride out to Neesh-nah-ba-to-na Creek which
passes under the ball hills near this place and at one place a little
above this Camp is within 300 yards of the Missouris on this Creek
grows Some few trees of oake walnut & mulberry. I took Meridian
altitude of sun L. L. (43° 27') which made the Lattitude 40° 27' 5" 4/10
North--wind from the South E. Several of the party much aflicted with
turners of different Kinds, Som of which is verry troublesom and
dificuelt to cure. Capt. Louis returned in the evening. he Saw Som hand
Some Countrey & Says that the aforesaid Creek is rapid muddey and
running--This Creek which is at 10 or 12 from its mouth, within 300 yds
of the river is at least 16 foot Lower than the river--The high Lands
from our Camp in this Bald Pated Prarie bears N 25° W. up the R.
The Common Current taken with a Log runs 50 fathen in 40"Some places
much Swifter in 30" and even 20 Seconds of time--five Deer killed to day
[Clark, July 18, 1804]
July 18th Wednesday a fair morning the river falling fast, Set out at
Sunrise under a gentle Breeze from S. E by S. at 3 miles passed the
head of the Island on L. S. called by the French Chauve or bald pate
(1) opsd. the middle of this Island the Creek on L. S. is within 300
yds. of the river. back of this Island the lower point of (2) another
Island in the bend to the L. S. passed large Sand bar making out from
each point with many channels passing through them, "Current runs 50
fathm. in 41 Seconds" but little timber on either Side of the river,
except the Isds. & points which are low wet & Covered with lofty trees,
Cotton wood Mulberry Elm &c. &c. passed the head of a long Island in
high water at this time no water passes thro the Channel (3) opposit
the Lower point of a Island on the L. S. pass the Island and opsd. the
point (4) above & on the L. S. the hills come to the river, This Hill
has Sliped into the river for about 3/4 of a mile, and leaves a Bluff
of considerable hight back of it this Hill is about 200 foot high
compsd. of Sand Stone inter mingled with Iron ore of an inferior
quallity on a bed of Soft Slate Stone.
We passed a verry bad Sand bar (4) a little above the hill and incmpd
on the L. S. opposit a Small Island in the river, Saw a Dog this
evening appeared to be nearly Starved to death, he must have been left
by Some party of Hunters we gave him Some meet, he would not come near,
G Drewrer brought in 2 Deer this evening
[Clark, July 18, 1804]
July 18th Wednesday 1804 a fair morning the river falling fast Set out
this morning at Sun rise under a Gentle Breeze from the S. E. by S.
passing over the Prarie, at about 3 Miles we passed the head of the
Island L. S. Called by the French Chaube or Bald pate opposit the
middle of (1) This Island the Creek on the S. S. is nearest the river,
In high water an Island is formed in the bind above the last (2)-
Measured the Current and found that in forty one Seconds it run yo
fathoms but little timber is to be Seen except in the Low points on
Islands & on Creeks, the Groth of timber is generally cotton Mulberry
Elm Sycomore &c &c. passed a Island on the 2d point to the S. S.
opposite the water (3) whin high passes out in the Plain oppsid this
Island on the L. S. the hills jut to the river (4) this Hill has Sliped
from the top which forms a Bluff above & 200 foot above the water,
about 3/4 of a mile in length & about 200 feet in Depth has Sliped into
the river it is Composed of Sand Stone intermixed with an indiffert.
Iron ore near the bottom or next to the water is a Soft Slate Stone,
Som pebble is also intermixt, we passed a verry bad Sand bar and
incamped on the L. S. at the lower point of the oven Islands & opposit
the Prarie Calld. by the french Four le Tourtue Saw a Dog nearly
Starved on the bank, gave him Som meet, he would not follow, our
hunters killed 2 Deer to day
[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th after breakfast which was on a rosted Ribs of a Deer a little
and a little Coffee I walked on Shore intending only to Keep up with
the Boat, Soon after I got on Shore, Saw Some fresh elk Sign, which I
was induced to prosue those animals by their track to the hills after
assending and passing thro a narrow Strip of wood Land, Came Suddenly
into an open and bound less Prarie, I Say bound less because I could
not See the extent of the plain in any Derection, the timber appeared
to be confined to the River Creeks & Small branches, this Prarie was
Covered with grass about 18 Inches or 2 feat high and contained little
of any thing else, except as before mentioned on the River Creeks &c,
This prospect was So Sudden & entertaining that I forgot the object of
my prosute and turned my attention to the Variety which presented
themselves to my view after continueing on this rise for Some minits, I
deturmined to make my course to a line of woods to S. E. I found in
this wood a butifull Streem of running water, in prosuing it down
Several others Joined it and at 3 miles fell into the river between 2
clifts, I went up & under one clift of dark rich Clay for 1/2 me. above
this a Clay bank which had Sliped in here I found Sand Stone Containing
Iron ore, this ore appears to be inbeded under the Clay just above the
water
[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th Thursday 1804
Set out early pass between 2 Islands one in mid. & the other L. S.
opsd. wher Prarie aproaches the river S. S. This place is called the
Bakers oven or in french Four le Tour tere passd. Some highlands 41/2
ms. above the Isds. on the L. S. forming a Clift to the river of yellow
earth, on the top a Prarie, passd. many a bad Sand bar in this
distance, & the river wide & Shallow, above this Clift 2 Small
butiffull runs Come from the Plains & fall into the river, a Deer lick
on the first, above those two Creeks, I found in my walk on Shore Some
ore in a bank which had Sliped in to the river 3/4 me. above the
Creeks, I took a cerequite around & found that those two runs mentioned
contained a good proposion of wood Surrounded by a plain, with grass
about 18 Inchs. high, (Capt Lewis walked on Shore after Dinner) in the
first bind to the right above those Runs passed a Small Island opsd. is
a Sand bar I call this Island Butter Island, as at this place we mad
use of the last of our butter, as we approach this Great River Platt
the Sand bars are much more noumerous than they were, and the quick &
roleing Sands much more danjerous, where the Praries aproach the river
it is verry wide, the banks of those Plains being much easier to
undermine and fall than the wood land passed (4) a willow Island
Situated near the middle of the river, a Sand bar on the S. S. and a
Deep bend to the L S. camped on the right Side of the Willow Island-W.
Bratten hunting on the L. S Swam to the Island. Hunters Drewyer killed
2 Deer, Saw great numbers of young gees. The river Still falling a
little Sand bars thick always in view.
[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th, Thursday 1804
Set out early passed between two Small Islands, one in the middle of
the river, the other Close on the L S. opposit a prarie S. S. Called
(1) by the french Four le tourtre, The Bakers oven Islands, passed (2)
Some high Clift 41/2 miles above the Islands on the L. S. of yellow
earth passed Several Sand bars that were wide and at one place verry
Shallow (two Small butifull runs falls into the river near each other
at this Clift, a Deer Lick 200 yards up the Lowest of those runs) Those
runs head at no great distance in the plains and pass thro of timber to
the river. In my walk on Shore I found Some ore in the bank above those
runs which I take to be Iron ore (3) at this place the Side of the hill
has Sliped about half way into the river for 3/4 of a Mile forming a
Clift from the top of the hill above. In the first bend to the right
passed a Small Island a Sand bar opposit,--worthey of remark as we
approach this great River Plate the Sand bars much more numerous and
the quick or moveing Sands much worst than they were below at the
places where Praries approach the river it is verry wide those places
being much easier to wash & under Mine than the wood Land's. (4) passed
a Willow Isd. Situated near the Middle of the river and a large Sand
makeing out from the S. S. a Deep bend to the L S. we Camped at the
head of this Island on the Starboard Side of it, Hunters Killed Two
Deer. Saw great numbers of young Gees River falling a little.
[Clark, July 20, 1804]
July 20th Friday 1804, a fog this morning and verry Cool George Drewyer
Sick proceed on over a Sand bar, Bratten Swam the river to get his gun
& Clothes left last night psd a large willow Isd. on the L. S. (1)
passed the mouth of l'Eau que pleure the English of which is the water
which Cry's this Creek is about 20 yards wide falls into the river
above a Gift of brown Clay L. S. opposit a willow Island, at this Creek
I went on Shore took R Fields with me and went up this Creek Several
miles & crossed thro the plains to the river above with the view of
finding Elk, we walked all day through those praries without Seeing
any, I killed an emence large yellow Wolf-The Countrey throu which we
walked after leaveing the Creek was good land covered with Grass
interspersed with Groves & Scattering timber near and about the heads
of Branches one of them without Suckcess, Camped above the bar on the
L. S. a verry agreeable Breeze all night Serjt. Pryor & Jo. Fields
brought in two Deer river Still falling. a large Spring 3/4 me. below
camp
[Clark, July 20, 1804]
July 20th, Friday 1804
a cool morning passed a large willow Island (1) on the S. S. and the
mouth of Creek about 25 yds. wide on the L. S. Called by the french
l'Eue-que pleure, or the the Water Which Cry's this Creek falls into
the river above a Clift of brown Clay opposit the Willow Island, I went
out above the mouth of this Creek and walked the greater part of the
day thro Plains interspesed with Small Groves of Timber on the branches
and Some Scattering trees about the heads of the runs, I Killed a Verry
large yellow wolf, The Soil of Those Praries appears rich but much
Parched with the frequent fires-" after I returned to the Boat we
proceeded around a large Sand bar makeing out from the L. S. opsd. a
fountain of water comeing out of a hill L. S. and affording water
Suffient to turn a mill
The Praries as far as I was out appeared to be well watered, with Small
Streems of running water Serjt. Pryor & Jo. Fields brought in two Deer
this evening--a verry Pleasent Breeze from the N. W. all night--river
falling a little, It is wothey of observation to mention that our party
has been much healthier on the Voyage than parties of the Same Number
is in any other Situation Turners have been troublesom to them all
From this evenings incampment a man may walk to the Pane Village on the
S bank of the Platt River in two days, and to the Otteaus in one day
all those Indians are Situated on the South bank of the Plate River, as
those Indians are now out in the praries following & Hunting the
buffalow, I fear we will not See them.
[Lewis, July 21, 1804]
July 21, 1804
by a boiling motion or ebolition of it's waters occasioned no doubt by
the roling and irregular motion of the sand of which its bed is
entirely composed. the particles of this sand being remarkably small
and light it is easily boied up and is hurried by this impetuous
torrent in large masses from place to place in with irristable forse,
collecting and forming sandbars in the course of a few hours which as
suddingly disapated to form others and give place perhaps to the
deepest channel of the river. where it enters the Missouri it's
superior force changes and directs the courant of that river against
it's northern bank where it is compressed within a channel less than
one third of the width it had just before occupyed. it dose not furnish
the missouri with it's colouring matter as has been asserted by some,
but it throws into it immence quantities of sand and gives a celerity
to it's courant of which it abates but little untill it's junction with
the Mississippy. the water of this river is turbid at all seasons of
the year but is by no means as much so as that of the Missourie. The
sediment it deposits, consists of very fine particles of white sand
while that of the Missoury is composed principally of a dark rich
loam-in much greater quantity
21st July from the experiments and observations we were enabled to make
with rispect to the comparative velocities of the courants of the
rivers Mississippi Missouri and Plat it results that a vessel will
float in the Mississippi below the entrance of the Missouri at the rate
of four miles an hour. in the Missouri from it's junction with the
Mississsippi to the entrance of the Osage river from 51/2 to 6 from
thence to the mouth of the Kanzas from 61/2 to 7. from thence to the
Platte 51/2 while the Plat is at least 8.--The Missouri above the
junction of the river plat is equal to about 31/2 miles an hour as far
as the mouth of the Chyenne where its courant still abates and becomes
equal to about three miles an hour from information it dose not
increase it's volocity for
[Clark, July 21, 1804]
July 21st Satturday, Set out verry early and a Gentle Breeze from the
S. E proceeded on very well, passed a (1) Willow Island L. S. opsd. a
bad Sand bar passed Some high land covered with Timber, in this Hill is
Semented rock & Limestone the water runs out and forms Several little
Islands in (2) high water on the S. S. a large Sand bar on the S. S.
above and opposit the wooded High Land, at about 7 oClock the wind
Seased and it Commenced raining passed many Sand bars opposit or in the
Mouth of the Great River Plate this river which is much more rapid than
the Missourie has thrown out imence quantities of Sand forming large
Sand Banks at its mouth and forced the Missourie Close under the S. S.
the Sands of this river Comes roleing down with the Current which is
Crowded with Sand bars and not 5 feet water at any place across its
mouth, the Rapidity of the Current of this river which is greater than
that of the Missourie, its width at the Mouth across the bars is about
3/4 of a mile, higher up I am told by one of the bowmen that he was 2
winters on this river above and that it does not rise 7 feet, but
Spreds over 3 miles at Some places, Capt Lewis & my Self went up Some
Distance & Crossed found it Shallow. This river does not rise over 6 or
7 feet
Proceeded on passed the mouth of Papillion or Butter fly Creek 3 miles
on the L. S. a large Sand bar opposit on that Side Camped above this
baron L. S. a great number of wolves about us all night R. Fields
killed a Deer hard wind N. W. cold
[Clark, July 21, 1804]
July 21st, Satturday 1804
Set out early under a gentle breeze from the S. E. proceeded on verry
well, passed (1) a willow Island on the L. S. opposit a bad Sand bar,
Some high lands covered with timber L. S in this hill is limestone &
Seminted rock of Shels &c. (2) in high water the opposit Side is cut
thro by Several Small Channels, forming Small Islands, a large Sand bar
opposit the Hill at 7 oClock the wind luled and it Commnc'd raining,
arrived at the lower Mouth of the Great River Platt at 10 oClock (about
3 ms. above the Hill of wood land, the Same range of High land Continus
within 3/4 of a mile of the mouth below) This Great river being much
more rapid than the Missourie forces its current against the opposit
Shore, The Current of This river Comes with great Velocity roleing its
Sands into the Missouri, filling up its Bend & Compelling it to
incroach on the S Shore--we found great dificuelty in passing around
the Sand at the mouth of this River Capt Lewis and My Self with 6 men
in a perogue went up this Great river Plate about 1 miles, found the
Current verry rapid roleing over Sands, passing through different
Channels none of them more than five or Six feet deep, about 600 yards
Wide at the mouth--I am told by one of our Party who wintered two
winters on This river that "it is much wider above, and does not rise
more than five or Six feet" Spreds verry and from its rapidity &
roleing Sands Cannot be navagated with Boats or Perogues--The Indians
pass this river in Skin Boats which is flat and will not turn over. The
Otteaus a Small nation reside on the South Side 10 Leagues up, the
Panies on the Same Side 5 Leagus higher up--about 10 Leagus up this
river on the S. Side a Small river Comes into the Platt Called Salt
River, "The waters So brackish that it Can't be Drank at Some Seasons"
above this river & on the North Side a Small river falls into the Platt
Called Elk River This river runs Parralal withe the Missouri--at 3
miles passed a Small river on the L. S. Called Papillion or Butterfly
C. 18 yds. wide a large Sand bar off the mouth, we proceeded on to get
to a good place to Camp and Delay a fiew days, passed around this Sand
bar and Came to for the night on the L. S. a verry hard wind from the
N. W. I went on Shore S. S. and proceeded up one mile thro high Bottom
land open a Great number of wolves about us this evening
[Clark, July 22, 1804]
July 22nd Sunday Set out verry early with a view of getting Some
timbered land & a good Situation to take equil altitudes in time
proceeded on nearly a North 15° W 7 ms. to a pt. S. S. opposit Some high
Lands on L. S. above the upper point of a long willow Island in the
middle of the river 6 Deer killed to Day we deturmined to Stay here 4
or 5 days to take & make obsvts. & refresh our men also to Send
Despatches back to govement--Wind hard N. W. Cold
[Clark, July 22, 1804]
22nd of July 1804
Completlly arranged our Camp, posted two Sentinals So as to Completely
guard the Camp, formd bowers for the min $cc. &. Course from R Plate N
15° W. 10 Ms.
[Clark, July 22, 1804]
July 22nd, Sunday 1804
Set out verry early with a view of Getting to Some Situation above in
time to take equal altitudes and take Observations, as well as one
Calculated to make our party Comfortabl in a Situation where they Could
recive the benifit of a Shade--passed a large Sand bar opposit a Small
river on the L. S. at 3 miles above Plate Called Papillion or Butterfly
Creek a Sand bar & an Willow Island opposit a Creek 9 ms. above the
Plate on the S. S. Called Mosquitos Creek Prarie on both Sides of the
river. Came too and formed a Camp on the S. S. above a Small Willow
Island, and opposit the first Hill which aproach the river on the L. S.
and covered with timbers of Oake Walnut Elm &c. &. This being a good
Situation and much nearer the Otteaus town than the Mouth of the Platt,
we concluded to delay at this place a fiew days and Send for Some of
the Chiefs of that nation to let them Know of the Change of Government,
The wishes of our Government to Cultivate friendship with them, the
Objects of our journy and to present them with a flag and Some Small
presents
Some of our Provisions in the French Perogue being wet it became
necessary to Dry them a fiew days--Wind hard from N W. five Deer Killed
to day--The river rise a little
[Lewis, July 22, 1804]
July 22nd 1804.
A summary discription of the apparatus employed in the following
observations; containing also some remarks on the manner in which they
have been employed, and the method observed in recording the
observations made with them.
1st--a brass Sextant of 10 Inches radius, graduated to 15 which by the
assistance of the nonius was devisible to 15"; and half of this sum by
means of the micrometer could readily be distinguished, therefore-7.5"
of an angle was perceptible with this instrument; she was also
furnished with three eye-pieces, consisting of a hollow tube and two
telescopes one of which last reversed the images of observed objects.
finding on experiment that the reversing telescope when employed as the
eye-piece gave me a more full and perfect image than either of the
others, I have most generally imployed it in all the observations made
with this instrument; when thus prepared I found from a series of
observations that the quantity of her index error was 8' 45"-; this sum
is therefore considered as the standing error of the instrument unless
otherwise expressly mentioned. the altitudes of all objects, observed
as well with this instrument as with the Octant were by means of a
reflecting surface; and those stated to have been taken with the
sextant are the degrees, minutes, &c shewn by the graduated limb of the
instrument at the time of observation and are of course the double
altitudes of the objects observed.
2ed--A common Octant of 14 Inches radius, graduated to 20', which by
means of the nonius was devisbile to 1', half of this sum, or 30" was
perceptible by means of a micrometer. this instrument was prepared for
both the fore and back observation; her error in the fore observation
is 2°+, & and in the back observtion 2° r 1' 40.3" + at the time of our
departure from the River Dubois untill the present moment, the sun's
altitude at noon has been too great to be reached with my sextant, for
this purpose I have therefore employed the Octant by the back
observation. the degrees ' & ", recorded for the sun's altitude by the
back observation express only the angle given by the graduated limb of
the instrument at the time of observation, and are the complyment of
the double Altitude of the sun's observed limb; if therefore the angle
recorded be taken from 180° the remainder will be the double altitude of
the observed object, or that which would be given by the fore
observation with a reflecting surface.
3rd--An Artificial Horizon on the construction recommended and
practiced by Mr. Andrw. Ellicott of Lancaster, Pensyla., in which water
is used as the reflecting surface; believing this artificial Horizon
liable to less error than any other in my possession, I have uniformly
used it when the object observed was sufficiently bright to reflect a
distinct immage; but as much light is lost by reflection from water I
found it inconvenient in most cases to take the altitude of the moon
with this horizon, and that of a star impracticable with any degree of
accuracy.
4th--An Artificial Horizon constructed in the manner recommended by Mr.
Patterson of Philadelphia; glass is here used as the reflecting
surface. this horizon consists of a glass plane with a single
reflecting surface, cemented to the flat side of the larger segment of
a wooden ball; adjusted by means of a sperit-level and a triangular
stand with a triangular mortice cut through it's center sufficiently
large to admit of the wooden ball partially; the stand rests on three
screws inserted near it's angles, which serve as feet for it to rest on
while they assist also in the adjustment. this horizon I have employed
in taking the altitude of the sun when his image he has been reather
too dull for a perfect reflection from water; I have used it generally
in taking the altitude of the moon, and in some cases of the stars
also; it gives the moon's image very perfectly, and when carefully
adjusted I consider it as liable to but little error.
5th--An Artificial Horizon formed of the index specula of a Sextant
cemented to a flat board; adjusted by means of a sperit level and the
triangular stand before discribed. as this glass reflects from both
surfaces it gives the images of all objects much more bright than
either of the other horizons; I have therefore most generally employed
it in observing the altitudes of stars
6th--A Chronometer; her ballance-wheel and escapement were on the most
improved construction. she rested on her back, in a small case prepared
for her, suspended by an universal joint. she was carefully wound up
every day at twelve oclock. Her rate of going as asscertained by a
series of observations made by myself for that purpose was found to be
15 Seconds and a 5 tenths of a second too slow in twenty four howers on
Mean Solar time. This is nearly the same result as that found by Mr.
Andrew Ellicott who was so obliging as to examine her rate of going for
the space of fourteen days, in the summer 1803. her rate of going as
ascertained by that gentleman was 15.6 s too slow M. T. in 24 h. and
that she went from 3 to 4 s. slower the last 12 h, than she did the
first 12 h. after being wound up.
at 12 OCk. on the 14th day of may 1804 (being the day on which the
detachment left the mouth of the River Dubois) the Chronometer was too
fast M. T. 6 m. 32 s. & 2/10.--This time-piece was regulated on
meantime, and the time entered in the following observations is that
shewn by her at the place of observation. the day is recconed on Civil
time, (i e) commencing at midnight.
7th--A Circumferentor, circle 6 Inches diameter, on the common
construction; by means of this instrument adjusted with the sperit
level, I have taken the magnetic azimuth of the sun and pole Star. It
has also been employed in taking the traverse of the river:--from the
courses thus obtained, together with the distances estimated from point
to point, the chart of the Missouri has been formed which now
accompanys these observations. the several points of observation are
marked with a cross of red ink, and numbered in such manner as to
correspond with the celestial observations made at those points
respectively.
[Clark, July 23, 1804]
Camp 10 Ms. above the river Plate Monday July the 23rd
a fair morning--Sent out a party of 5 men to look to timber for Ores
two other parties to hunt at 11 oClock Sent, G. Drewyer & Peter Crusett
1/2 Indn. to the Otteaus Village about 18 ms. West of our Camp, to
invite the Chiefs & principal men of that nation to come & talk with us
&. &., also the panic if they Should meet with any of that nation (also
on the S. Side of the Plate 30 ms. higher up) (at this Season of the
year all the Indians in this quater are in the Plains hunting the
Buffalow from Some Signs Seen by our hunter and the Praries being on
fire in the derection of the Village induce a belief that the Nation
have returned to get green Corn) raised a flag Staff put out Some
provisions which got wet in the french Perogue to Sun & Dry--I
commenced Coppying my map of the river to Send to the Presdt. of U S.
by the Return of a pty of Soldiers, from Illinois five Deer Killed--one
man a bad riseing on his left breast. Wind from the N. W.
[Clark, July 23, 1804]
Camp White Catfish 10 Miles above the Platt River
Monday the 23rd of July 1804
A fair morning Set a party to look for timber for Ores, two parties to
hunt. at 11 oClock Sent off George Drewyer & Peter Crousett with Some
tobacco to invite the Otteaus if at their town and Panies if they Saw
them to Come and talk with us at our Camp &c. &c. (at this Season the
Indians on this river are in the Praries Hunting the Buffalow but from
Some Signs of hunters near this place & the Plains being on fire near
their towns induce a belief that they this nation have returned to get
Some Green Corn or rosting Ears) raised a flag Staff Sund & Dryed our
provisions &c. I commence Coppying a map of the river below to Send to
the P. ____ U S five Deer Killed to day one man with a turner on his
breast, Prepared our Camp the men put their arms in order
Wind hard this afternoon from the N. W.
Equal altitudes taken at the White Catfish Camp, 10 miles above the
river Platt-
[Clark, July 24, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 24th of July Tuesday. a fair morning the wind rose
with the Sun & blows hard from the S. thos Southerley Breezes are dry
Cool & refreshing. the Northerley Breezes which is more frequent is
much Cooler, and moist, I continue my Drawing. Cap Lewis also ingaged
prepareing Som paper to Send back, one of the men cought a white
Catfish, the eyes Small, & Tale resembling that of a Dolfin.
[Clark, July 24, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 10 Ms. above Platt
24th, of July 1804 Tuesday a fair day the wind blows hard from the
South, the Breezes which are verry frequent on this part of the
Missouri is cool and refreshing. Several hunters out to day; but as the
game of all Kinds are Scarce only two Deer were brought in--I am much
engaged drawing off a map, Capt. Lewis also much engaged in prepareing
Papers to Send back by a pirogue--Which we intended to Send back from
the river Plate--observations at this place makes the Lattitude 41° 3'
19" North
This evening Guthrege Cought a white Catfish, its eyes Small & tale
much like that of a Dolfin
[Clark, July 25, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 25th of July Wednesday. Several hunters Sent out. at
2 oClock the Two men Sent to the Otteaz Village returned and informed
that no Indians were at the Town they Saw Some fresh Sign near that
place which they persued, but Could not find them, they having taken
precausions to Conceal the rout which they went out from the Villagethe
Inds. of the Missouries being at war with one & the other or other
Indians, move in large bodies and Sometimes the whole nation Continue
to Camp together on their hunting pls. Those men inform that they
passed thro a open Plain all the way to the Town a feiw Trees excepted
on the watercourses--they Cross the papillion or the Butterfly Creek
within a feiw miles of Camp and near the Village a handsm. river of 100
yards Wide Called the Corne de chearf or the Elkhorn, which mouths
below the Town in the Plate N. Side. Wind from the S. E. 2 Deer & a
Turkey Killed to Day Several Grous Seen in the Prarie
[Clark, July 25, 1804]
White Catfish Camp
25th of July Wednesday a fair morning Several hunters out today at 2
oClock Drewyer & Peter returned from the Otteaus Village; and informs
that no Indians were at their towns, They Saw Some fresh Signs of a
Small party but Could not find them. in their rout to the Towns (Which
is about 18 miles West) they passed thro a open Prarie Crossed
papillion or Butterfly Creek and a Small butifull river which run into
the Platt a little below the Town Called Corne de charf or Elk Horn
river this river is about 100 yards wide with Clear water & a gravely
Channel.--wind from the S. E two Deer Killed to day 1 Turkey Several
Grous Seen to day.
[Clark, July 26, 1804]
Whit Catfish Camp 26th of July Thursday. the wind blew Verry hard all
Day from the South with Clouds of Sand which incomoded me verry much in
my tent, and as I could not Draw in the Boat was obliged Combat with
the Misqutr. under a Shade in the woods-. I opened the Breast of a man
the discharge gave him ease &c. 5 beaver Caught near Camp-only 1 Deer
Killed to day. The Countrey back from Camp on the S. S. is a bottom of
about 5 ms. wide one half the Distn. timber, the other high bottom
Prarie, the opsd. Side a high Hill about 170 foot rock foundatio.
Timbered back & below. a Prarie
[Clark, July 26, 1804]
Catfish which is White Camp
26th of July Thursday 1804 the wind blustering and hard from the South
all day which blowed the Clouds of Sand in Such a manner that I could
not complete my pan in the tent, the Boat roled in Such a manner that I
could do nothing in that, I was Compessed to go to the woods and Combat
with the Musqutors, I opened the Turner of a man on the left breast,
which discharged half a point.
five Beever Cought near this Camp the flesh of which we made use of-
This evening we found verry pleasent--only one Deer Killed to day. The
Countrey back from Camp on the S. S. is a bottom of about five mile
wide, one half the distance wood & the ball. plain high & Dry. the
opposed Side a high Hill about 170 foot rock foundation, Covd. with
timber, back & below is a Plain.
[Lewis, July 27, 1804]
white Catfish Camp July 27th Friday,
Charged the Boat and Perogue after a Small Shower of rain, Completed
our ores & poles, Crossed over the two horses, with a View of their
going on the S W. Side of the Missouri and Set out at Half past 1
oClock proceeded on Verry well under a gentle Breeze. passed a high
Island of high wood land on the L. Side just above Camp, this Island is
formed by a pond Supplied by a great number of Springs from this hill,
this Pond has 2 out lets, & when the river is high the water passes
thro the pond, passed a Sand Island in the 2nd bend to the right.
Camped in a bend to the L. S. in Some wood, I took R. Fields & walked
on Shore & Killed a Deer, and did not get to the Boat untile after
night a butifull Breeze from the N W. this evening which would have
been verry agreeable, had the Misquiters been tolerably Pacifick, but
thy were rageing all night, Some about the Sise of house flais
[Clark, July 27, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 10 ms above Platt
27th of July Friday, a Small Shower of rain this morning, at 10 oClock
Commence Loading the Boat & perogue; had all the Ores Completely fixed;
Swam over the two remaining horses to the L. S. with the view of the
Hunters going on that Side, after Getting everry thing Complete, we Set
Sale under a gentle breeze from the South and proceeded on, passed a
Island (formd by a Pond fed by Springs) on the L. S. of high Land
Covered with timber, in the 2nd bend to the right a large Sand Island
in the river a high Prarie on the S. S.-. as we were Setting out to day
one man Killed a Buck & another Cut his Knee verry bad Camped in a Bend
to the L. Side in a Coops of Trees, a verry agreeable Breeze from the N
W. this evening. I Killed a Deer in the Prarie and found the Misquitors
So thick & troublesom that it was disagreeable and painfull to Continue
a moment Still.
I took one man R. Fields and walked on Shore with a View of examoning
Som mounds on the L. S. of the river--those mounds I found to be of
Deffirent hight Shape & Size, Some Composed of Sand Some earth & Sand,
the highest next to the river all of which covered about 200 acres of
land, in a circular form on the Side from the river a low bottom &
Small Pond. The Otteaus formerly lived here I did not get to the boat
untile after night.
[Clark, July 28, 1804]
July 28th Satturday Set out this morning early, the wind blou from the
N. W. by N. a Dark Smokey Morning, Some rain at 1 me. passed a Bluff on
the S. S. it being the first high land approachig the river above the
Nodaway, a Island and Creek S. S. just abov this creek I call Indian
Knob G. Drewyer Came with a Deer &informs he heard fireing to the S. W.
I walked on Shore on the S. S. found some good Prarie out from the S.
pt. The High Lands approach the river 1st bend to left The party on
Shore brought in a Missouri Indian who resides with the Otteauz, this
Indian & 2 others were Hunting in the Prarie their Camp is about 4
miles off. This Indian informs that his nation is in the Plains hunting
the Buffalow, the party with which he is encamped is about 20 familey
Hunting the Elk, we landed on S. S. below an Island
[Clark, July 28, 1804]
July the 28th, Satturday 1804
Set out this morning early, the wind from the N W. by N. a Dark Smokey
morning Some rain passed at 1 me. a Bluff on the S. S. the first high
land above the Nodaway aproaching the river on that Side a Island and
Creek 15 yds. wide on the S. S. above this Bluff, as this Creek has no
name call it Indian Knob Creek our party on Shore Came to the river and
informs that they heard fireing to the S W. below this High Land on the
S. S. the Aiawuay Indians formerly lived, The flank came in & informed
they heard two Guns to the S. W. the highland approaches in the 1st
bend to the left, we camped on the S. S. below the point of an Island,
G Drewyer brought in a Missourie Indian which he met with hunting in
the Prarie This Indian is one of the fiew remaining of that nation, &
lives with the Otteauz, his Camp about 4 miles from the river, he
informs that the great gangue of the nation were hunting the Buffalow
in the Plains. hs party was Small Consisting only of about 20 Lodges,
____ miles furthr a nother Camp where there was a french man, who lived
in the nation, This Indian appeard spritely, and appeared to make use
of the Same pronouncation of the Osarge, Calling a Chief Inca
July 29th SundayWe Sent one frenchman le Liberty & the Indian to the
Camp to envite the party to meet us at the next bend of High Land on
the L. S. a Dark morning wind from the W. N. W. rained all last night
Set out at 5 oClock &, proceeded on passed the Island, opposit this
Island on the S. S. the Creek called Indian Knob Creek which mouths
Several miles on a Direct line below, is within 20 feet of the Missouri
& about 5 feet higher
Cought three large Cat fish to day verry fat one of them nearly white
those Cat are So plenty that they may be Cought in any part of this
river but fiew fish of any other Kind.
(4) at the commencement of this course passed much fallen timber
apparently the ravages of a dreadful haricane which had passed
obliquely across the river from N. W. to S. E. about twelve months
since. many trees were broken off near the ground the trunks of which
were sound and four feet in diameter.
Willard lost his gun in Bowyers R. R. Fields Dive & brought it up All
the Wood Land on this part of the Missouries Appear to be Confined to
the Points & Islands.
Boyers River is provably 25 yds. Wide, Willard near loseing his Gun in
this river, two men Sick & Sevral with Boils, a Cold Day Wind from the
N W. Som rain the fore part of the Day.
[Clark, July 29, 1804]
July 29th Sunday 1804
Sent a french man la Liberty with the Indian to Otteaze Camp to invite
the Indians to meet us on the river above--a Dark rainey morning wind
from the W. N. W.--rained all the last night--Set out at 5 oClock
opposit the (1) Island, the bend to the right or S. S. is within 20
feet of Indian Knob Creek, the water of this Creek is 5 feet higher
than that of the River. passed the Isld. we Stoped to Dine under Some
high Trees near the high land on the L. S. in a fiew minits Cought
three verry large Catfish (3) one nearly white, Those fish are in great
plenty on the Sides of the river and verry fat, a quart of Oile Came
out of the Surpolous fat of one of these fish (4) above this high land
& on the S. S. passed much falling timber apparently the ravages of a
Dreadfull harican which had passed obliquely across the river from N.
W. to S E about twelve months Since, many trees were broken off near
the ground the trunks of which were Sound and four feet in Diameter,
(2) about 3/4 of a Me. above the Island on the S. S. a Creek corns in
Called Boyers R. this Creek is 25 yards wide, one man in attempting to
Cross this Creek on a log let his gun fall in, R. Fields Dived &
brought it up proceeded on to a Point on the S. S. and Camped.
[Clark, July 30, 1804]
July the 30th Monday Set out early & proceeded on West 33/4 mes. passd.
one pt. to the L. S and one to the S. S. to a Clear open Prarie on the
L. S. which is on a rise of about 70 feet higher than the bottom which
is also a prarie covered with high grass Plumbs Grape Vine & Hezel-both
forming a Bluff to the River, the Lower Prarie is above high water mark
at the foot of the riseing ground & below the High Bluff we came to in
a grove of timber and formed a Camp raised a flag Pole, and deturmind
to waite for the Ottu Indians--The white Horse which we found below
Died last night, after posting out the Guards &c. &. Sent out 4 men to
hunt I am ingaged in ____ and Drawing off my courses to accompany the
map Drawn at White Catfish Camp, Capt. Lewis and my Self walked in the
Prarie on the top of the Bluff and observed the most butifull prospects
imagionable, this Prarie is Covered with grass about 10 or 12 Inch
high, (Land rich) rises about 1/2 a mile back Something higher and is a
Plain as fur as Can be Seen, under those high Lands next the river is
butifull Bottom interspersed with Groves of timber, the River may be
Seen for a great Distance both above & below meandering thro the plains
between two ranges of High land which appear to be from 4 to 20 ms.
apart, each bend of the river forming a point which Contains tall
timber, principally Willow Cotton wood some Mulberry elm Sycamore &
ash. the groves Contain walnit coffeenut & Oake in addition & Hickory &
Lynn Jo. Fields Killed Brarow or as the Ponie call it Cho car tooch,
this animale burrows in the ground & feeds on Bugs and flesh
principally the little Dogs of the Prarie, also Something of Vegetable
Kind his Shape & Size is like that of a Beever, his head Mouth &c. is
like a Dog with its ears Cut off, his tale and hair like that of a
Ground hog Something longer and lighter, his interals like a Hogs, his
Skin thick & loose, white & hair Short under its belly, of the Species
of the Bear, and it has a white Streake from its nose to its Sholders,
the Toe nails of its fore feet which is large is 1 Inch and 3/4 qtr.
long and those of his hind feet which is much Smaller is 3/4 long. We
have this animale Skined and Stuffed. Short legs, raseing himself just
above the ground when in motion Jo & R. fields Killed Som Deer at a
Distance and Came in for a horse to bring them in, they have not
returned this evening, a gred number of Swans in a pond above L. S. to
our Camp. Serjt. Floyd verry unwell a bad Cold &c. Several men with
Boils, great qts. of Catfish G. D. Cought one Small Beever alive. Som
Turkey & Gees Killed to day. arms & all things in order. a fair
evining, and Cool.
[Clark, July 30, 1804]
July 30th Monday 1804
Set out this morning early proceeded on to a Clear open Prarie on the
L. S. on a rise of about 70 feet higher than the bottom which is also a
Prarie both forming Bluffs to the river of High Grass & Plumb bush
Grapes &c. and Situated above high water is a Small Grove of timber at
the foot of the Riseing Ground between those two priraries, and below
the Bluffs of the high Prarie we Came too and formed a Camp, intending
to waite the return of the french man & Indians--the white horse which
we found near the Kanzeis River, Died Last night
posted out our guard and Sent out 4 men, Captn. Lewis & went up the
Bank and walked a Short Distance in the high Prarie. this Prairie is
covered with Grass of 10 or 12 inches in hight. Soil of good quallity
&, Still further back at the Distance of about a mile the Countrey
rises about 80 or 90 feet higher, and is one Continual Plain as fur as
Can be Seen, from the Bluff on the 2d rise imediately above our Camp
the most butifull prospect of the River up & Down and the Countrey
opsd. prosented it Self which I ever beheld; The River meandering the
open and butifull Plains, interspursed with Groves of timber, and each
point Covered with Tall timber, Such as willow Cotton Sun Mulberry,
Elm, Sucamore, Lynn & ash (The Groves Contain Hickory, Walnut,
Coffeenut & Oake in addition)
Two ranges of High Land parrelel to each other and from 4 to 10 miles
Distant between which the river & its bottoms are Contained. (from 70
to 300 feet high)
Joseph Fields Killed and brought in an Anamale Called by the French
Brarow, and by the Ponies Cho car tooch this Anamale Burrows in the
Ground and feeds on Flesh, (Prarie Dogs), Bugs, & vigatables--"His
Shape & Size is like that of a Beaver, his head mouth &c. is like a
Dogs with Short Ears, his Tail and Hair like that of a Ground Hog, and
longer, and lighter. his Interals like the interals of a Hog," his Skin
thick and loose, his Belly is White and the Hair Short--a white Streek
from his nose to his Sholders.
The toe nails of his fore feet is one Inch & 3/4 long, & feet large;
the nails of his hind feet 3/4 of an Inch long, the hind feet Small and
toes Crooked, his legs are Short and when he Moves Just Suffcent to
raise his body above the Ground He is of the Bear Species. we hav his
Skin Stuffed
Jo. & R. Fields did not return this evening, Several men with Verry bad
Boils--Cat fish is Cought in any part of the river Turkeys Gees & a
Beaver Killed & Cought every thing in prime order men in high Spirits.
a fair Still evening Great no. misquitors this evening
[Lewis, July 30, 1804]
July the 30th
this day Joseph Fields killed a Braro as it is called by the French
engages. this is a singular anamal not common to any part of the United
States. it's weight is sixteen pounds.--it is a carniverous anamal. on
both sides of the upper jaw is fexed one long and sharp canine tooth.-
it's eye are small black and piercing.
[Clark, July 31, 1804]
July 31st Tuesday a fair Day 3 hunters out this morning G. Drewyer
Killed a verry fat Buck one Inch fat on the ribs Merdn. altd Latd. is 41°
18' 0" 5/10-North. R & Jo. Fields returned at 10 oClock the Killed 3
Deer, and lost the horses, Cought a Small Beever which is already taim,
Several men out hunting the horses without Sukcess, The Ottoes not yet
arrived, I complete the Copy of the Courses &c. &c. Musqueters verry
troubleson
[Clark, July 31, 1804]
July 31st, Tuesday a fair Day three Hunters out, Took meridian altitude
made the Lattd. 41° 18' 1" 5/10 N. R. & Jo. Fields returned to Camp They
Killed 3 Deer.--The Horses Strayed off last night. Drewyer Killed a
Buck one inch of fat on the ribs, R. & Jo. Fields returned without any
meet haveing been in persuit of the horses--The Indians not yet
arrived. Cought a young Beever alive which is already quit tame-.
Cought a Buffalow fish--The evening verry Cool, The Musqutors are yet
troublesom.-
Part I: Journal Entries of July 1804
- Details
- Written by: Meriwether Lewis and and William Clark
- Category: The Journals of Lewis and Clark 1804-1806