[Lewis, June 1, 1806]
Sunday June 1st 1806.
Yesterday evening Charbono an LaPage returned, having made a broken
voyage. they ascended the river on this side nearly opposite to a
village eight miles above us, here their led horse which had on him
their merchandize, feell into the river from the side of a steep clift
and swam over; they saw an indian on the opposite side whom they
prevailed on to drive their horse back again to them; in swiming the
river the horse lost a dressed Elkskin of LaPages and several small
articles, & their paint was destroyed by the water. here they remained
and dryed their articles the evening of the 30th Ult. the indians at
the village learning their errand and not having a canoe, made an
attempt esterday morning to pass the river to them on a raft with a
parsel of roots and bread in order to trade with them; the indian raft
struck a rock, upset and lost thir cargo; the river having fallen heir
to both merchandize and roots, our traders returned with empty bags.
This morning Drewyer accompanyed by Hohastillpilp set out in surch of
two tomahawks of ours which we have understood were in the possession
of certain indians residing at a distance in the plains on the South
side of the Kooskoske; the one is a tomahawk which Capt. C. left at our
camp on Musquetoe Creek and the other was stolen from us while we lay
at the forks of this and the Chopunnish rivers last fall. Colter and
Willard set out this morning on a hunting excurtion towards the quamash
grounds beyond Collins's Creek. we begin to feel some anxiety with
rispect to Sergt. Ordway and party who were sent to Lewis's river for
salmon; we have received no inteligence of them since they set out. we
desired Drewyer to make some enquiry after the Twisted hair; the old
man has not been as good as his word with rispect to encamping near us,
and we fear we shall be at a loss to procure guides to conduct us by
the different routs we wish to pursue from Traveller's rest to the
waters of the Missouri.--I met with a singular plant today in blume of
which I preserved a specemine; it grows on the steep sides of the
fertile hills near this place, the radix is fibrous, not much branched,
annual, woody, white and nearly smooth. the stem is simple branching
ascending, 21/2 feet high celindric, villose and of a pale red colour.
the branches are but few and those near it's upper extremity. the
extremities of the branches are flexable and are bent down near their
extremities with the weight of the flowers. the leaf is sissile,
scattered thinly, nearly linear tho somewhat widest in the middle, two
inches in length, absolutely entire, villose, obtusely pointed and of
an ordinary green. above each leaf a small short branch protrudes,
supporting a tissue of four or five smaller leaves of the same
appearance with those discribed. a leaf is placed underneath eah
branch, and each flower. the calyx is a one flowered spathe. the
corolla superior consists of four pale perple petals which are
tripartite, the central lobe largest and all terminate obtusely; they
are inserted with a long and narrow claw on the top of the germ, are
long, smooth, & deciduous. there are two distinct sets of stamens the
1st or principal consist of four, the filaments of which are capillary,
erect, inserted on the top of the germ alternately with the petals,
equal short, membranous; the anthers are also four each being elivated
with it's fillament, they are linear and reather flat, erect sessile,
cohering at the base, membranous, longitudinally furrowed, twise as
long as the fillament naked, and of a pale perple colour. the second
set of stamens are very minute are also four and placed within and
opposite to the petals, these are scarcely persceptable while the 1st
are large and conspicuous; the filaments are capillary equal, very
short, white and smooth. the anthers are four, oblong, beaked, erect,
cohering at the base, membranous, shorter than the fillaments, white
naked and appear not to form pollen. there is one pistillum; the germ
of which is also one, cilindric, villous, inferior, sessile, as long as
the 1st stamens, and marked with 8 longitudinal furrows. the single
style and stigma form a perfict monapetallous corolla only with this
difference, that the style which elivates the stigma or limb is not a
tube but solid tho it's outer appearance is that of the tube of a
monopetallous corolla swelling as it ascends and gliding in such manner
into the limb that it cannot be said where the style ends, or the
stigma begins; jointly they are as long as the corolla, white, the limb
is four cleft, sauser shaped, and the margins of the lobes entire and
rounded. this has the appearance of a monopetallous flower growing from
the center of a four petalled corollar, which is rendered more
conspicuous in consequence of the 1st being white and the latter of a
pale perple. I regret very much that the seed of this plant are not yet
ripe and it is proble will not be so during my residence in this
neighbourhood.
[Clark, June 1, 1806]
Sunday June 1st 1806.
Late last evening Shabono & Lapage returnd. haveing made a broken
voyage. they assended the river on this Side nearly opposit to the
Village Eight miles above us, here their led horse who had on him their
Stock of Merchindize fell into the river from the Side of a Steep Clift
and swam over, they Saw an indian on the opposit side whome they
provailed on to drive their horse back again to them; in swiming the
horse lost a dressed Elk skin of LaPages and Several small articles,
and their paint was distroyed by the water. here they remained and
dryed their articles the evening of the 30th ulto. the indians at the
village learned their errand and not haveing a canoe, made an attempt
Yesterday morning made an attempt to pass the river to them on a raft
with a parcel of roots and bread in order to trade with them; the
indian raft Struck a rock upset and lost their Cargo; the river haveing
Swallowed both Merchindize & roots, our traders returned with empty
bags. This morning Geo. Drewyer accompanied by Hohastillpilp Set out in
Serch of two tomahawks of ours which we have understood were in the
possession of certain indians resideing at a distance in the Plains on
the South Side of Flat Head river; one is a pipe tomahawk which Capt L.
left at our Camp on Musquetor Creek and the other was stolen from me
whilst we lay at the forks of this and Chopunnish rivers last fall.
Colter and Willard Set out this morning on a hunting excurtion towards
the quawmash grounds beyond Colins creek. we begin to feel Some anxiety
with respect to Sergt. Ordway and party who were Sent to Lewis's river
for salmon; we have receved no intillegence of them Sence they Set out.
we desired Drewyer to make Some enquiry after the Twisted hair; the old
man has not been as good as his word with respect to encamping near us,
and we fear we Shall be at a loss to procure guides to conduct us by
the different routs we wish to pursue from Travillers rest to the
waters of the Missouri
[Lewis, June 2, 1806]
Monday June 2cd 1806.
McNeal and york were sent on a trading voyage over the river this
morning. having exhausted all our merchandize we are obliged to have
recourse to every subterfuge in order to prepare in the most ample
manner in our power to meet that wretched portion of our journy, the
Rocky Mountain, where hungar and cold in their most rigorous forms
assail the waried traveller; not any of us have yet forgotten our
sufferings in those mountains in September last, and I think it
probable we never shall. Our traders McNeal and York were furnished
with the buttons which Capt. C. and myself cut off our coats, some eye
water and Basilicon which we made for that purpose and some Phials and
small tin boxes which I had brought out with Phosphorus. in the evening
they returned with about 3 bushels of roots and some bread having made
a successful) voyage, not much less pleasing to us than the return of a
good cargo to an East India Merchant.--Collins, Sheilds, R & J. Feilds
and Shannon set out on a hunting excurtion to the Quawmash grounds on
the lower side of Collins's Creek. our horses many of them have become
so wild that we cannot take them without the assistance of the Indians
who are extreemly dextrous in throwing a rope and taking them with a
noose about the neck; as we frequently want the use of our horses when
we cannot get the assistance of the indians to take them, we had a
strong pound formed today in order to take them at pleasure. Drewyer
arrived this evening with Neeshneparkkeeook and Hohastillpilp who had
accompanyed him to the lodges of the persons who had our tomahawks. he
obtained both the tomahawks principally by the influence of the former
of these Cheifs. the one which had been stolen we prized most as it was
the private property of the late Sergt. Floyd and Capt. C. was
desireous of returning it to his friends. the man who had this tomahawk
had purchased it from the Indian that had stolen it, and was himself at
the moment of their arrival just expiring. his relations were unwilling
to give up the tomehawk as they intended to bury it with the disceased
owner, but were at length induced to do so for the consideration of a
hadkerchief, two strands of beads, which Drewyer gave them and two
horses given by the cheifs to be killed agreeably to their custom at
the grave of the disceased. The bands of the Chopunnish who reside
above the junction of Lewis's river and the Kooskooske bury their dead
in the earth and place stones on the grave. they also stick little
splinters of wood in betwen the interstices of the irregular mass of
stone piled on the grave and afterwards cover the whole with a roof of
board or split timber. the custom of sacreficing horses to the
disceased appears to be common to all the nations of the plains of
Columbia. a wife of Neeshneeparkkeeook died some short time since,
himself and hir relations saceficed 28 horses to her. The Indians
inform us that there are a plenty of Moos to the S. E. of them on the
East branch of Lewis's river which they call Tommanamah R. about Noon
Sergt. Ordway Frazier and Wizer returned with 17 salmon and some roots
of cows; the distance was so great from which they had brought the fish
that most of them were nearly spoiled. these fish were as fat as any I
ever saw; sufficiently so to cook themselves without the addition of
grease; those which were sound were extreemly delicious; their flesh is
of a fine rose colour with a small admixture of yellow. these men set
out on the 27th ult. and in stead of finding the fishing shore at the
distance of half a days ride as we had been informed, they did not
reach the place at which they obtained their fish untill the evening of
the 29th having travelled by their estimate near 70 miles. the rout
they had taken however was not a direct one; the Indians conducted them
in the first instance to the East branch of Lewis's river about 20
miles above it's junction with the South branch, a distance of about 50
Ms. where they informed them they might obtain fish; but on their
arrival at that place finding that the salmon had not yet arrived or
were not taken, they were conducted down that river to a fishery a few
miles below the junction of the forks of Lewis's river about 20 Ms.
further, here with some difficulty and remaining one day they purchased
the salmon which they brought with them. the first 20 Ms. of their rout
was up Commeap Creek and through a plain open country, the hills of the
creek continued high and broken with some timber near it's borders. the
ballance of their rout was though a high broken mountanous country
generally well timbered with pine the soil fertile in this quarter they
met with an abundance of deer and some bighorned animals. the East fork
of Lewis's river they discribe as one continued rapid about 150 Yds.
wide it's banks are in most places solid and perpendicular rocks, which
rise to a great hight; it's hills are mountains high. on the tops of
some of those hills over which they passed, the snow had not entirely
disappeared, and the grass was just springing up. at the fishery on
Lewis's river below the forks there is a very considerable rapid nearly
as great from the information of Segt. Ordway as the great falls of the
Columbia the river 200 Yds. wide. their common house at this fishery is
built of split timber 150 feet long and 35 feet wide flat at top. The
general course from hence to the forks of Lewis's river is a little to
the West of south about 45 Ms.--The men at this season resort their
fisheries while the women are employed in collecting roots. both forks
of Lewis's river above their junction appear to enter a high
Mountainous country.--my sick horse being much reduced and apearing to
be in such an agoni of pain that there was no hope of his recovery I
ordered him shot this evening. the other horses which we casterated are
all nearly recovered, and I have no hesitation in declaring my beleif
that the indian method of gelding is preferable to that practiced by
ourselves.
[Clark, June 2, 1806]
Monday June 2nd 1806
McNeal and York were Sent on a tradeing voyage over the river this
morning. having exhosted all our Merchendize we were obliged to have
recourse to every Subterfuge in order to prepare in the most ample
manner in our power to meet that wretched portion of our journy, the
Rocky Mountains, where hungar and Cold in their most regorous form
assail the waried traveller; not any of us have yet forgotten our those
mountains in September last, I think it probable we never Shall. Our
traders McNeal and York are furnished with the buttons which Capt L-.
and my Self Cut off of our Coats, Some eye water and Basilicon which we
made for that purpose and Some phials of eye water and Some tin boxes
which Capt L. had brought from Philadelphia. in the evening they
returned with about 3 bushels of roots and Some bread haveing made a
Suckcessfull voyage, not much less pleasing to us than the return of a
good Cargo to an East India merchant.
Shields, Collins, Reuben & Joseph Field & Shannon Set out on a hunting
excurtion to the quaw mash the lower side of Collins Creek & towards
the Mountains.
Drewyer arived this evening with Neeshneparkkeeook and Hohashillpilp
who had accompanied him to the lodge of the person who had our
tomahawks. he obtained both the tomahawks principally by the influence
of the former of those Chiefs. the one which had been Stolen we prized
most as it was the private property of the late Serjt. Floyd and I was
desireous of returning it to his friends. The man who had this tomahawk
had purchased it from the man who had Stolen it, and was himself at the
moment of their arival just expireing. his relations were unwilling to
give up the tomahawk as they intended to bury it with the deceased
owner, but were at length to do so for the Consideration of a
handkerchief, two Strands of heeds, which drewyer gave them and two
horses given by the Chiefs to be Killed agreeable to their custom at
the grave of the deceased. The custom of Sacrificeing horses to the
disceased appears to be Common to all the nations of the plains of the
Columbia. a Wife of Neeshneeparkkeeook died Some Short time Sence,
himself and her relations sacrificed horses to her. The Indians inform
us that there is a plenty of Moos to the S. E. of them on the East
branch of Lewis's river which they Call Tommawamah River. About noon
Sergt. Ordway Frazier and Wiser returnd. with 17 Salmon and Some roots
of the Cows; the distance was So great from whence they brought the
fish, that most of them were nearly Spoiled. those fish were as fat as
any I ever saw; Sufficiently So to cook themselves without the addition
of Grease or butter; those which were Sound were extreemly delicious;
their flesh is of a fine rose colour with a Small admixture of yellow.
these men Set out on the 27th ulto. and in Sted of finding the fishing
Shore at the distance of half a days ride as we had been informed, they
did not reach the place at which they obtained their fish untill the
evening of the 29th haveing traveled near 70 miles. the rout they had
taken however was not a direct one; the Indians Conducted them in the
first instance to the East fork of Lewis's river about 10 miles above
it's junction with the South branch, a distance of about 50 miles where
they informed them they might obtain fish; but on their arival at that
place finding that the Salmon had not arived or were not taken, they
were Conducted down that river to a fishery a fiew miles below the
junction of the forks of Lewis's River about 20 miles further, here
they remained one day and with some dificuelty, they purchased the
Salmon which they brought with them. the first 20 ms. Of their rout was
up Commeap Creek and through a plain open Country, the hills of the
Creek Continued high and broken with Some timber near it's borders, the
ballance of their rout was through a high broken Mountanious Country.
generally well timbered with pine the soil fertile. in this quarter the
meet with abundance of deer and Some big-horned Animals. The East fork
of Lewis's river they discribe as one Continued rapid of about 150
yards wide, it's banks are in most places Solid and perpindicular
rocks, which rise to a great hight; it's hills are mountanious high. on
the top of Some of those hills over which they passed, the Snow had not
entirely disappeared, and the grass was just springing up. at the
fishery on Lewis's river below the forks there is a very Considerable
rapid, nearly as Great from the information of Sergt. Ordway as the
Great falls of the Columbia the river 200 yards wide. their common
house at this fishery is built of Split timber 150 feet long and 35
feet in width, flat at top. the general Course from here to the forks
of Lewis's river is a little to the west of South about 45 ms. The men
at this Season resort their fisheries while the womin are employed in
collecting roots-. both forks above the junction of Lewis's river
appear to enter a high Mountainious Country. our horses are all
recovering & I have no hesitation in declareing that I believe that the
Indian Method of guilding preferable to that practised by ourselves.
[Lewis, June 3, 1806]
Tuesday June 3rd 1806.
Our invalids are all on the recovery; Bratton is much stronger and can
walk about with considerable ease. the Indian Cheif appears to be
gradually recovering the uce of his limbs, and the child is nearly
well; the imposthume on his neck has in a great measure subsided and
left a hard lump underneath his left ear; we still continue the
application of the onion poltice. at 2 P.M. The Broken arm and 3 of his
wariars visited us and remained all night. Colter, Jo. Fields and
Willard returned this evening with five deer and one bear of the brown
speceis; the hair of this was black with a large white spot on the
breast containing a small circular black spot. today the Indians
dispatched an express over the mountains to travellers rest or the
neighbourhood of that Creek on Clark's river in order to learn from the
Oote-lash-shoots a band of the Flatheads who have wintered there, the
occurrences that have taken place on the East side of the mountains
during that season. this is the band which we first met with on that
river. the mountains being practicable for this express we thought it
probable that we could also pass, but the indians informed us that
several of the creeks would yet swim our horses, that there was no
grass and that the roads were extreemly deep and slipery; they inform
us that we may pass conveniently in twelve or fourteen days. we have
come to a resolution to remove from hence to the quawmash grounds
beyond Collins's creek on the 10th to hunt in that neighbourhood a few
days, if possible lay in a stock of meat and then attempt the mountains
about the middle of this month. I begin to lose all hope of any
dependance on the Salmon as this river will not fall sufficiently to
take them before we shall leave it, and as yet I see no appearance of
their runing near the shores as the indians informed us they would in
the course of a few days. I find that all the salmon which they procure
themselves they obtain on Lewis's river, and the distance thither is
too great for us to think of sending after them even had we merchandize
with which to purchase.
[Clark, June 3, 1806]
Tuesday June 3rd 1806
Our invalids are all on the recovery; bratten is much Stronger and can
walk about with Considerable ease. the Indian Chief appears to be
gradually recovering the use of his limbs, and the child is nearly
well; the inflomation on his neck Continus but the Swelling appears to
Subside. we Still Continue the application of the onion poltice. at 3
P.M. the broken arm and three wariors visited us and remained all
night. Colter, Jos. Fields and Willard returned this evening with five
deer and one bear of the brown Species; the hair of this was black with
a large white Spot on the breast containing a Small circular black
Spot. (this Species of bear is Smaller than our Common black bear) this
was a female bear and as our hunters informed us had cubs last year,
this they judged from the length and Size of her tits &c. this bear I
am Confident is not larger than the yerlin Cubs of our Country. To day
the Indians dispatched an express over the mountains to Travellers rest
or to the neighbourhood of that Creek on Clark's river in order to
learn from a band of Flat-Heads who inhabit that river and who have
probably Wintered on Clarks river near the enterance of travellers rest
Creek, the occurences which have taken place on the East Side of the
mountains dureing the last winter. this is the band which we first met
with on that river. the Mountains being practicable for this express we
thought it probable that we could also pass, but the Chiefs informs us
that Several of the Creek's would yet swim our horses, that there was
no grass and that the road was extreemly deep and slipery; they inform
us that we may pass Conveniently in twelve or fourteen days. we have
come to a resolution to remove from hence to the Quawmash Grounds
beyond Colins Creek on the 10th to hunt in that neighbourhood a fiew
days, if possible lay in a Stock of Meat, and then attempt the
Mountains about the Middle of this month. I begin to lose all hope of
any dependance on the Salmon as this river will not fall Sufficiently
to take them before we Shall leave it, and as yet I see no appearance
of their running near the Shore as the indians informed us they would
in the course of a fiew days. I find that all the Salmon which they
precure themselves they obtain on Lewis's river, and the distance
thither is too great for us to think of Sending after them, even had we
merchendize with which to purchase the salmon.-.
[Lewis, June 4, 1806]
Wednesday June 4th 1806.
about noon The 3 Cheifs left us and returned to their vilages. while
they were with us we repeated the promises we had formerly made them
and invited them to the Missouri with us, they declined going untill
the latter end of the summer and said it was there intention to spend
the ensuing winter on the East side of the Rocky mountains. they gave
us no positive answer to a request which we made, that two or three of
their young men should accompany me to the falls of the Missouri and
there wait my return from the upper part of Maria's river where it was
probable I should meet with some of the bands of the Minnetares from
Fort de Prarie; that in such case I should indeavor to bring about a
good understanding between those indians and themselves, which when
effected they would be informed of it though the young men thus sent
with me, and that on the contrary should I not be fortunate enough to
meet with these people nor to prevail on them to be at peace they would
equally be informed through those young men, and they might still
remain on their guard with rispect to them untill the whites had it in
their power to give them more effectual releif. The Broken Arm invited
us to his village and said he wished to speak to us before we set out,
and that he had some roots to give us for our journey over the
mountains; Capt. C. promised to visit him as he wished the day after
tomorrow.--Sheilds returned this evening from the quawmash grounds with
2 deer which he had killed.
[Clark, June 4, 1806]
Wednesday June 4th 1806
about noon the 3 chiefs left us and returned to their villages. While
they were with us we repeeted the promisces we had formerly made them
and envited them to the Missouri with us, they declined going untill
the latter end of the Summer, and Said it was their intintion to Spend
the insiewing winter on the East Side of the Rocky Mountains, they gave
us no positive answer to a request which we made, that two or three of
their young men Should accompany Capt L. to the falls of Missouri and
there wait his return from the upper part of Maria's river where it was
probable he Should meet with Some of the bands of the Blakfoot Indians
and Minitarres of Fort dePrarie, that in Such Case Capt L. would
indeavor to bring about a good understanding between those indians and
themselves, which when effected they would be informed of it through
the young men thus Sent with him. and that on the contrary Should he
not be fortunate enough to meet with those people, nor to provaile on
them to be at peace they would equally be informed through those young
men, and they might Still remain on their guard with respect to them,
untill the Whites had it more in their Power to give them more
effectual relief. I also urged the necessaty of Sending one or two of
their Considerate men to accompany me by way of the Shoshonees on the
head of Jeffersons river and about the three forks of the Missouri
which whome there is most probably Some of the Chiefs of those bands of
Shoshones with whome they are at war, and by which means a message Sent
to that nation & good understanding brought about between the Shoshones
and the Chopunnish Nations which appears to be the wish of both
Nations. The Broken Arm envited us to his Village and Said he wished to
Speak to us before we Set out, and that he had Some roots to give us
for our journey over the mountains; I promised to visit him as he
wished the day after tomorrow-. Shields returned this evining from the
Quawmash grounds with two Deer which he had killed
[Lewis, June 5, 1806]
Thursday June 5th 1806.
Colter and Bratton were permitted to visit the indian villages today
for the purpose of trading for roots and bread, they were fortunate and
made a good return. we gave the indian cheif another sweat today,
continuing it as long as he could possibly bear it; in the evening he
was very languid but appeared still to improve in the use of his limbs.
the child is recovering fast the inflamation has subsided intirely, we
discontinued the poltice, and applyed a plaster of basilicon; the part
is still considerably swolen and hard. in the evening R. Feilds Shannon
and Labuish return from the chaise and brought with them five deer and
a brown bear. among the grasses of this country I observe a large
speceis which grows in moist situations; it rises to the hight of eight
or ten feet, the culm is jointed, hollow, smooth, as large as a goos
quill and more firm than ordinary grasses; the leaf is linnear broad
and rough; it has much the appearance of the maden cain as it is called
in the state of Gergia, and retains it's virdure untill late in the
fall. this grass propegates principally by the root which is horizontal
and perennial. a second speceis grows in tussucks and rises to the
hight of six or eight feet; it seems to delight in the soil of the
river bottoms which possess a greater mixture of sand than the hills in
this neighbourhood. this is also a harsh course grass; it appears to be
the same which is called the Corn grass in the Southern states, and the
foxtail in Virginia. a third speceis resembles the cheet, tho the
horses feed on it very freely. a fourth and most prevalent speceis is a
grass which appears to be the same called the blue grass common to many
parts of the United States; it is common to the bottom as well as the
uplands, is now seeding and is from 9 inches to 2 feet high; it affords
an excellent pasture for horses and appears to bear the frosts and snow
better than any grass in our country; I therefore regret very much that
the seed will not be ripe before our probable departure. this is a fine
soft grass and would no doubt make excellent hay if cultivated. I do
not find the greenswoard here which we met with on the lower part of
the Columbia. there are also several speceis of the wild rye to be met
with in the praries. among the plants and shrubs common to our contry I
observe here the seven bark, wild rose, vining honeysickle, sweet
willow, red willow, longleafed pine, Cattail or cooper's flag,
lamsquarter, strawberry, raspberry, tonge grass, musterd, tanzy,
sinquefield, horsemint, coltsfoot, green plantin, cansar weed, elder,
shoemate and several of the pea blume flowering plants.-
[Clark, June 5, 1806]
Thursday June 5th 1806
Colter and Bratten were permitted to visit the Indian Village to day
for the purpose of tradeing for roots and bread, they were fortunate
and made a good return. we gave the Indian Cheif another Sweat to-day,
continuing it as long as he could bear it. in the evening he was very
languid but Still to improve in the use of his limbs. the Child is
revovereing fast. I applied a plaster of Sarve made of the Rozen of the
long leafed pine, Beas wax and Beare oil mixed, which has Subsided the
inflomation entirely, the part is Considerably Swelled and hard-. in
the evening Reuben Fields, G. Shannon, Labiech, & Collins returned from
the chaise and brought with them five deer and a brown Bear.
Among the Grasses of this Country I observe a large Species which grows
in moist Situations; it rises to the hight of Eight or ten feet, the
Culm is jointed, hollow, Smooth, as large as a goose quill, and more
firm than ordinary grass; the leaf is linner broad and rough; it has
much the appearance of the Meadin Cain as it is Called in the Southern
parts of the U States, and retains it's virdue untill late in the fall.
this grass propegates principally by the Root which is horozontal and
perennial.-. a Second Species grows in tussucks and rises to the hight
of Six or Eight feet; it Seams to delight in the Soil of the river
bottoms which possess agreater mixture of Sand than the hills in this
neighbourhood. this is also a harsh Course grass; it appears to be the
Same which is Called the Corn grass in the Southern States, and the
Foxtail in Virginia. a third Species resembles the cheet, tho the
horses feed on it very freely. a fouth and most prevalent Species is a
grass which appears to be the Same Called the blue Grass common to
maney parts of the United States; it is common to the bottoms as well
as the uplands, is now Seeding and is from 9 inches to 2 feet high; it
affords an excellent paterage for horses and appears to bear the frost
and Snow better than any grass in our Country; I therefore regrete very
much that the Seed will not be ripe before our probable departure. this
is a fine Soft grass and would no doubt make excellent hay if
cultivated. I do not find the Green Sword here which we met with on the
lower part of the Columbia. There are also Several Species of the wild
Rye to be met with in the praries. among the plants and Shrubs common
to our Country I observe here the Seven bark, Wild rose, vineing honey
suckle, Sweet willow, red willow, long leafed pine, Cattail or Coopers
Flag. Lambs quarter, Strawberries, Raspberries, Goose berries, tongue
grass, Mustard, tanzy, Sinquefield, horse mint, water penerial, elder,
Coalts foot, Green Plantin, canser weed, Shoemate, and Several of the
pea blume flowering plants.-. Frazier who had permission to visit the
Twisted Hairs Lodge at the distance of ten or twelve miles did not
return this evening-. The river falls in course of the day and rises
Some at night as will be Seen by the remarks in the Diary of the
weather. this most probably is the melding of the Snows dureing the day
&c.
[Lewis, June 6, 1806]
Friday June 6th 1806.
This morning Frazier returned having been in quest of some roots and
bread which had left at the lodg of the Twisted hair when on his way to
the fishery on Lewis's river. the Twisted hair came with him but I was
unable to converse with him for the want of an interpreter, Drewyer
being absent with Capt. C. This Cheif left me in the evening and
returned to his village. Capt C. Visited the Broken Arm today agreeably
to his promise; he took with him Drewyer and several others. they were
received in a friendly manner. The Broken Arm informed Capt. C. that
the nation would not pass the mountain untill the latter end of the
summer, and that with rispect to the young men whom we had requested
should accompany us to the falls of the Missouri, were not yet
scelected for that purpose nor could they be so untill there was a
meeting of the nation in counsil. that this would happen in the course
of ten or twelve days as the whole of the lodges were about to remove
to the head of the Commeap Creek in the plain near Lewis's river, that
when they had assembled themselves they would hold a council and
scelect the young men. that if we set out previously to that period the
men would follow us. we therefore do not calculate on any assistance
from them as guides, but depend more upon engageing some of the
Ootlashshoots in the neighborhood of Travellers rest C. for that
purpose. The broken arm gave Capt. C. a few dryed Quawmas roots as a
great present, but in our estimation those of cows are much better, I
am confident they are much more healthy. The men who were with Capt. C.
obtained a good store of roots and bread in exchange for a number of
little notions, using the Yanke phrase, with which their own enginuity
had principally furnished them. on examination we find that our whole
party have an ample store of bread and roots for our voyage, a
circumstance not unpleasing. They retuned at 5 P.M. shortly after which
we were visited by Hohastillpilp the two young Cheifs who gave us the
horses in behalf of the nation some time since and several others, who
remained all night. The Kooskooske is about 150 Yds. wide at this place
and discharges a vast body of water; notwithstanding it high state the
water remains nearly transparent, and it's temperature appeas to be
quite as cold as that of our best springs. we meet with a beautifull
little bird in this neighbourhood about the size and somewhat the shape
of the large spar-row. it is reather longer in proportion to it's bulk
than the sparrow. it measures 7 inches from the extremity of the beek
to that of the tail, the latter occupying 21/2 inches. the beak is
reather more than half an inch in length, and is formed much like the
Virginia nitingale; it is thick and large for a bird of it's size; wide
at the base, both chaps convex, and pointed, the uper exceeds the under
chap a little is somewhat curved and of a brown colour; the lower chap
of a greenish yellow. the eye full reather large and of a black colour
both puple and iris. the plumage is remarkably delicate; that of the
neck and head is of a fine orrange yellow and red, the latter
predominates on the top of the head and arround the base of the beak
from whence it graduly deminishes & towards the lower part of the neck,
the orrange yellow prevails most; the red has the appearance of being
laid over a ground of yellow. the breast, the sides, rump and some long
feathers which lie between the legs and extend underneath the tail are
of a fine orrange yellow. the tail, back and wings are black, ecept a
small stripe of yellow on the outer part of the middle joint of the
wing, 1/4 of an inch wide and an inch in length. the tail is composed
of twelve feathers of which those in the center are reather shortest,
and the plumage of all the feathers of the tail is longest on that side
of the quill next the center of the tail. the legs and feet are black,
nails long and sharp; it has four toes on each foot, of which three are
forward and one behind; that behind is as long as the two outer of the
three toes in front.
[Clark, June 6, 1806]
Friday June 6th 1806
I visited the Broken Arm to day agreeable to my promis of the 4th inst.
and took with me Drewyer & three other men I was receved in a friendly
manner. The broken Arm informed me that maney of the Small chiefs of
the different Bands of his nation had not heard our word from our own
mouths, Several of them were present and was glad to See me &c. I
repeeted in part what had been Said in Council before. The Broken arm
told me that the nation would not pass the mountains untill the latter
part of the Summer, and with respect to the young men who we had
requested to accompany us to the falls of Missouri, were not yet
Selected for that purpose nor could they be So untill they had a
Meeting of the Nation in Council. that this would happen in the Course
of ten or 12 days as the whole of the Lodges were about to Move to the
head of Commeap Creek in the Plain of Lewis's river, that when they
held a council they would Select two young men. that if we Set out
previously to that time the men would follow us. we therefore do not
Calculate any assistance from them as guides, but depend more upon
engageing Some of the Oatlash-shoots on Clarks river in the
neighbouringhood of Travellers rest C. for that purpose. The Broken Arm
gave me a fiew Quawmash roots as a great preasent, but in my estimation
those of Cows is much better. I am Confident they are much more
healthy. The Broken Arm informed me that they had latterly been
informed that a party of the Shoshones had arived at the Ye-E-al-po
Nation who reside to the South of the enterance of Kooskooske into
Lewis's river. and had informed that people that their nation (the
Shoshones) had received the talk which was given their relations on the
head of the East fork of Lewis's river last fall, and were resolved to
pursue our Councils, and had came foward for the purpose of makeing
peace with them, and allso with the Chopunnish &c. that they had Sent
Several men in Serch of those people with a view to bring them to
Lewis's river at which place the Broken Arm informed me he Should meet
them and Smoke the pipe of peace. which he Should afterwards Send by
with Some of his Chiefs in company with those Shoshones to their nation
and confirm a piece which never Should be broken on his part. he
produced two pipes one of which he said was as a present to me the
other he intended to Send to the Shoshones &c. and requested me to take
one, I receved the one made in the fascion of the Country, the other
which was of Stone curiously inlaid with Silver in the common form
which he got from the Shoshones. I deckorated the Stem of this pipe
with blue ribon and white wampom and informed the Chief this was the
emblem of peace with us.
The men who accompanied me obtained a good Store of roots and bread in
exchange for a number of little notions, useing the Yanke phrase, with
which their own enginuiety had principally furnished them. on
examonation we find our whole party have a Sufficient Store of bread
and roots for our Voyage. a Circumstance not unpleasing-.
I returned at 4 P. M followed by Hohastillpilp the 2 young Chiefs who
gave us the horses in behalf of the nation Some time Sence, the young
man who gave us the horse at Collins Creek to kill as we Came up, and
Several others. I met the twisted hair and two other indians with
Frazier on the opposit bank from our Camp this Morning & Sent him over
to our Camp. I met him this evening on his return home. he informed me
he could not accompany us across the mountains as his brother was Sick
&c.-.
[Clark, June 6, 1806]
The Chopunnish call the Crow Indians Up-shar-look-kar
Chopunnish name for Sin-sho-cal Dearbourne R ditto--do--Cal la mar-Sha
mosh Meddesons ditto--do--Co-ma win-nim Maria River ditto ditto-
Ta-ki-a-ki-a Mescle Shell R ditto--ditto Wah-wo-ko-ye-o-cose is th ____
ditto do--Rockejhone--Elk river
ditto do--Koos-koos-an-nim-a the little Missouri ditto--do-
Walch-Nim-mah--Knife R ditto--do Ni-hi-Sir-te--C. R
[Lewis, June 7, 1806]
Saturday June 7th 1806.
The two young Cheifs who visited last evening returned to their village
on Commeap C. with some others of the natives. Sergt. Gass, McNeal,
Whitehouse and Goodrich accompanyed them with a view to procure some
pack or lash ropes in exchange for parts of an old sain, fish giggs,
peices of old iron, old files and some bullets. they were also directed
to procure some bags for the purpose of containing our roots & bread.
in the evening they all returned except Whitehouse and Goodrich who
remained all night. they procured a few strings but no bags.
Hohastillpilp passed the river today and brought over a horse which he
gave Frazier one of our party who had previously made him a present of
a pair of Cannadian shoes or shoe-packs. Drewyer set out on a hunting
excurtion up Collins's Creek this evening. we wish to leave the deer in
the neighbourhood of the quawmash plains undisturbed untill the 10th
when we intend removing thither to lay in some meat for our voyage over
the Mountains. our party are much engaged in preparing their saddles
arranging their loads provisions &c for our departure. There is a
speceis of cherry which grows in this neighbourhood in sitations like
the Choke cherry or near the little rivulets and wartercouses. it
seldom grows in clumps or from the same cluster of roots as the choke
cherry dose. the stem is simple branching reather diffuse stem the
cortex is of a redish dark brown and reather smooth. the leaf is of the
ordinary dexture and colour of those of most cherries, it is petiolate;
a long oval 11/4 inhes in length and 1/2 an inch in width, obtuse,
margin so finely serrate that it is scarcely perseptable & smooth. the
peduncle is common 1 inch in length, branch proceeding from the
extremities as well as the sides of the branches, celindric gradually
tapering; the secondary peduncles are about 1/2 an inch in length
scattered tho proceeding more from the extremity of the common peduncle
and are each furnished with a small bracted. the parts of
fructification are much like those discribed of the choke cherry except
that the petals are reather longer as is the calix reather deeper. the
cherry appears to be half grown, the stone is begining to be hard and
is in shape somewhat like that of the plumb; it appears that when ripe
it would be as large as the Kentish cherry, which indeed the growth of
the bush somewhat resembles; it rises about 6 or 8 feet high
[Clark, June 7, 1806]
Saurday June 7th 1806.
The two young cheafs and other Indians who accompanied them Crossed the
river and returned to their Village this morning after brackfast;
Shabono Sergt Gass McNeal, Whitehouse & Goodrich accompanied them for
the purpose of purchaseing or exchangeing old peces of Sane, fish gig,
peces of iron, bullets, and old files and Such articles as they Could
raise for ropes and Strings for to lash their loads, and bags to Cary
their roots in Sergt. Gass, Shabono & McNeal returned at 2 P M haveing
precured a String each only. Whitehouse and Goodrich continued at the
Village all night. Hohastillpilp crossed the river to day and brought
over a horse and gave it to Frazier one of our party who had made him a
present previously of a Par of Canidian Shoes. one of our men informed
me one of the young Chiefs who had given us two horses already was in
Serch of one which he intended to give to me. George Drewyer Set out on
a hunting excurtion up Collins's Creek alone. our party are all much
engaged in prepareing Sadles and packing up their Stores of Provisions
&c.--The Flat Head river is about 150 yards wide at this place and
discharges a vast body of water; notwithstanding it's high State the
water remains nearly transparent, and it's temperature appears to be
quit as cold as that of our best Springs. we met with a butifull little
bird in this neighbourhood about the Size and Somewhat the Shape of the
large Sparrow. it measures 7 inches from the extremity of the beak to
that of the tail, the latter Occupying 21/2 inches. the beak is reather
more than half an inch in length, and is formed much like the Virginia
Nightingal; red bd. it is thick and large for a bird of it's size, wide
at the base, both Chaps convex, and pointed, the upper exceeds the
under chap a little is Somewhat cirved and of a brown Colour; the lower
chap of a Greenish yellow. the eye full reather large and of a black
colour both puple and iris. the plumage is remarkably delicate; that of
the neck and head is of a fine orrange yellow and red. the latter
predomonates on the top of the head and around the base of the beak
from whence it gradually diminishes towards the lower part of the Neck,
the orring yellow prevails most, the red has the Appearance of haveing
been laid over a Ground of yellow. the breast, the Sides, rump and some
long feathers which lie between the legs extend underneath the tail is
of a fine orrange yellow. the tail, back and wings are black, except a
Small Strip of yellow on the outer part of the Middle joint of the
wing, 1/4 of an inch wide and an inch in length. the tail is composed
of 12 feathers of which those in the Center are reather Shortest, and
the plumage of all the feathers of the tail is longest on that Side of
the quill next to the Center of the tail. the legs and feet are black,
nails long and Sharp; it has four toes on each foot, of which three are
forward and one behind; that behind is as long as the two outer of the
three toes in front
[Lewis, June 8, 1806]
Sunday June 8th 1806.
Drewyer returned this morning from the chase without having killed
anything. his hose left him last night, he pursued him but did not
overtake him untill he had nearly reached our camp. The sick Cheif is
fast on the recovery, he can bear his weight on his legs, and has
acquired a considerable portion of strength. the child is nearly well;
Bratton has so far recovered that we cannot well consider him an
invalid any longer, he has had a tedious illness which he boar with
much fortitude and firmness.--The Cutnose visited us today with ten or
twelve warriors; two of the latter were Y-e-let-pos a band of the
Chopunnish nation residing on the South side of Lewis's river whom we
have not previously seen. the band with which we have been most
conversent call themselves pel-late-pal-ler. one of the yeletpos
exchanged his horse for an indifferent one of ours and received a
tomahawk to boot; this tomahawk was one for which Capt. C. had given
another in exchange with the Clahclel-lah Chief at the rapids of the
Columbia. we also exchanged two other of our indifferent horses with
unsound backs for much better horses in fine order without any
consideration but the horse itself. several foot rarces were run this
evening between the indians and our men. the indians are very active;
one of them proved as fleet as Drewer and R. Fields, our swiftest
runners. when the racing was over the men divided themselves into two
parties and played prison base, by way of exercise which we wish the
men to take previously to entering the mountain; in short those who are
not hunters have had so little to do that they are geting reather lazy
and slouthfull.--after dark we had the violin played and danced for the
amusement of ourselves and the indians.--one of the indians informed us
that we could not pass the mountains untill the full of the next moon
or about the first of July, that if we attempted it sooner our horses
would be at least three days travel without food on the top of the
mountain; this information is disagreable inasmuch as it causes some
doubt as to the time at which it will be most proper for us to set out.
however as we have no time to loose we will wrisk the chanches and set
out as early as the indians generally think it practicable or the
middle of this month.
[Clark, June 8, 1806]
Sunday June 8th 1806
Drewyer returned this morning from the chase without killing any thing.
his horse left him last night and he prosued him near our camp before
he cought him. The Sick Chief is much mended, he can bear his weight on
his legs and recovers Strength. the Child has nearly recovered. The Cut
nose and ten or 12 came over today to visit us, two of those were of
the tribes from the plains of Lewis's river whome we had not before
Seen; one of those men brought a horse which I gave a tomahawk which I
had exchanged for with the Chief of the Clahclahlah's Nation below the
Great rapids of Columbia, and broken-down horse which was not able to
Cross the mountains. we also exchanged 2 of our indeferent horses for
Sound back horses. in the evening Several foot races were run by the
men of our party and the Indians; after which our party divided and
played at prisoners base untill night. after dark the fiddle was played
and the party amused themselves in danceing. one of those Indians
informed us that we could not cross the mountains untill the full of
the next moon, or about the 1st of July. if we attempted it Sooner our
horses would be three days without eateing, on the top of the Mountns.
this information is disagreeable to us, in as much as it admits of Some
doubt, as to the time most proper for us to Set out. at all events we
Shall Set out at or about the time which the indians Seem to be
generally agreed would be the most proper. about the middle of this
month
[Lewis, June 9, 1806]
Monday June 9th 1806.
This morning we had all our horses brought up and indeavoured to
exchange five or shix with the Indians in consequence of their having
unsound backs but succeeded in exchanging one only. Hohastillpilp with
several of the natives who visited us yesterday took leave of us and
set out for the plains near Lewis's river where the nation are about to
assemble themselves. The broken arm made us a short visit this morning
and took leave of us, being about to set out with his village today in
order to join the nation at their rendezvouz on Lewis's R. The Cutnose
or Neeshneeparkkeeook borrowed a horse and rode down the Kooskooske
River a few miles this morning in quest of some young eagles which he
intends raising for the benifit of their feathers; he returned soon
after with a pair of young Eagles of the grey kind; they were nearly
grown and prety well feathered. in the evening the young Chief who gave
both Capt. C. and myself a horse some time since, came to our camp with
a party of young men and remained all night. this evening one of our
party obtained a very good horse for an indifferent one by giving the
indian an old leather shirt in addition. we eat the last of our meat
yesterday evening and have lived on roots today. our party seem much
elated with the idea of moving on towards their friends and country,
they all seem allirt in their movements today; they have every thing in
readiness for a move, and notwithstanding the want of provision have
been amusing themselves very merrily today in runing footraces pitching
quites, prison basse &c. the river has been falling for several days
and is now lower by near six feet than it has been; this we view as a
strong evidence that the great body of snow has left the mountains,
though I do not conceive that we are as yet loosing any time as the
roads is in many parts extreemly steep rocky and must be dangerous if
wet and slippry; a few days will dry the roads and will also improve
the grass.
[Clark, June 9, 1806]
Moday June 9th 1806
We had all of our horses brought up and attempted to exchange our Sore
back and most indifferent horses with the indians for Sound back
horses, we exchanged one only. Hohasillpilp took his leave of us and
Set out for the Plains of Lewises river, with Several of the nativs who
Visited us yesterday. The broken arm came over and continued a fiew
minits with us this morning, and also took his leave of us & Set out
with his Village for the plains of Lewis's river. The Cut nose borrowed
a horse and rode down the flathead river a fiew miles to take Some
young Eagles, which he intends to raise for their feathers. in the
evening one of the young Cheifs who had given both Capt Lewis and my
Self a horse came to our camp accompanied by 10 of his people and
continued with us all night. one of our men exchanged a very
indefferent horse for a very good one. our party exolted with the idea
of once more proceeding on towards thier friends and Country are elert
in all their movements and amuse themselves by pitching quates,
Prisoners bast running races &c-.
The flat head river is Still falling fast and nearly as low as it was
at the time we arrived at this place. this fall of water is what the
nativs have informed us was a proper token for us. when this river fell
the Snows would be Sufficiently melted for us to Cross the Mountains.
the greater length of time we delayed after that time, the higher the
grass would grow on th Mountains-.
[Lewis, June 10, 1806]
Tuesday June 10th 1806.
This morning we arrose early and had our horses collected except one of
Cruzatt's and one of Whitehouse's, which were not to be found; after a
surch of some hours Cruzatt's horse was obtained and the indians
promised to find the other and bring it to us at the quawmash flatts
where we purpose encamping a few days. at 11 A.M. we set out with the
party each man being well mounted and a light load on a second horse,
beside which we have several supenemary horses in case of accedent or
the want of provision, we therefore feel ourselves perfectly equiped
for the mountains. we ascended the river hills which are very high and
about three miles in extent our sourse being N. 22° E. thence N. 15 W. 2
m to Collins's creek. thence due North 5 m. to the Eastern border of
the quawmash flatts where we encamped near the place we first met with
the Chopunnish last fall. the pass of Collins's Creek was deep and
extreemly difficult tho we passed without sustaining further injury
than weting some of our roots and bread. the country through which we
passed is extreemly fertile and generally free of stone, is well
timbered with several speceis of fir, long leafed pine and larch. the
undergrowth is chooke cherry near the water courses, black alder, a
large speceis of redroot now in blume, a growth which resembles the
pappaw in it's leaf and which bears a burry with five valves of a deep
perple colour, two speceis of shoemate sevenbark, perple haw, service
berry, goosburry, a wild rose honeysuckle which bears a white berry,
and a species of dwarf pine which grows about ten or twelve feet high.
bears a globular formed cone with small scales, the leaves are about
the length and much the appearance of the common pitch pine having it's
leaves in fassicles of two; in other rispects they would at a little
distance be taken for the young plants of the long leafed pine. there
are two speceis of the wild rose both quinqui petallous and of a damask
red but the one is as large as the common red rose of our gardens. I
observed the apples of this speceis last fall to be more than triple
the size of those of the ordinary wild rose; the stem of this rose is
the same with the other tho the leaf is somewhat larger. after we
encamped this evening we sent out our hunters; Collins killed a doe on
which we suped much to our satisfaction. we had scarcely reached
Collins's Creek before we were overtaken by a party of Indians who
informed us that they were going to the quawmash flatts to hunt; their
object I beleive is the expectation of bing fed by us in which how ever
kind as they have been we must disappoint them at this moment as it is
necessary that we should use all frugallaty as well as employ every
exertion to provide meat for our journey. they have encamped with us.
we find a great number of burrowing squirels about our camp of which we
killed several; I eat of them and found them quite as tender and well
flavored as our grey squirel. saw many sand hill crains and some ducks
in the slashey glades about this place.
[Clark, June 10, 1806]
Tuesday June 10th 1806.
rose early this morning and had all the horses Collected except one of
Whitehouses horses which could not be found, an Indian promised to find
the horse and bring him on to us at the quawmash fields at which place
we intend to delay a fiew days for the laying in Some meat by which
time we Calculate that the Snows will have melted more off the
mountains and the grass raised to a sufficient hight for our horses to
live. we packed up and Set out at 11 A M we Set out with the party each
man being well mounted and a light load on a 2d horse, besides which we
have several supernumary horses in case of accident or the want of
provisions, we therefore feel ourselves perfectly equiped for the
Mountains. we assended the hills which are very high and about three
miles in extent our course being N. 22° E, thence N. 15° W 2 ms. to Collins
Creek. Thence North 5 Miles to the Eastern boarders of the Quawmash
flatts where we encamped near the place I first met with the Chopunnish
Nation last fall. the pass of Collins Creek was deep and extreemly
difficult tho we passed without sustaining further injury than wetting
some of our roots and bread. The Country through which we passed is
extreemly fertile and generally free from Stone, is well timbered with
several Species of fir, long leafed pine and Larch. the undergrowth is
choke cherry near the watercourses, black alder, a large species of red
root now in blume, a Growth which resembles the poppaw in it's leaf and
which bears a berry with five valves of a deep purple colour, two
species of Shoemate, Seven bark, perple haw, Service berry, Goose
berry, wildrose, honey suckle which bears a white berry, and a Species
of dwarf pine which grows about 10 or 12 feet high, bears a globarlar
formed cone with Small Scales, the leaf is about the length and much
the appearance of the pitch pine haveing it's leaves in fassicles of
two; in other respects they would at a little distance be taken for the
young plants of the long leafed pine. There are two Species of the wild
rose both quinque petallous and of a damask red, but the one is as
large as the common red rose of our guardens. I observed the apples of
these Species last fall to be more than triple the Size of those of the
ordinary wild rose; the Stem of this rose is the Same with the other
tho the leaf is somewhat larger. after we encamped this evening we Sent
out our hunters; Collins killed a doe on which we Suped much to our
Satisfaction, we had not reached the top of the river hills before we
were overtaken by a party of 8 Indians who informed me that they were
gowing to the quawmash flatts to hunt; their object I belive is the
expectation of being fed by us in which however kind as they have been
we must disappoint them at this moment as it is necessary that we
Should use all frugallaty as well as employ every exertion to provide
meat for our journey. they have encamped with us. we find a great
number of burrowing Squirels about our camp of which we killed Several;
I eate of them and found them quit as tender and well flavd. as our
grey squirel. Saw many Sand hill crains and Some ducks in the Slashey
Glades about this place-.
[Lewis, June 11, 1806]
Wednesday June 11th 1806.
All our hunters were out this morning by daylight; Labuish and Gibson
only proved successfull, the former killed a black bear of the brown
speceis and a very large buck, the latter also killed a fine fat buck.
five of the Indians also turned out and hunted untill noon, when they
returned without having killed anything; at three P.M. the left us on
their return to ther villages. previous to their departure one of our
men exchanged an indifferent horse with one of them for a very good
one. in the evening our hunters resumed the chase; as game has become
scarce and shye near our camp they were directed to hunt at a greater
distance and therefore set out prepared to remain all night and make a
mornings hunt in grounds not recently frequented. Whitehouse returned
this morning to our camp on the Kooskooske in surch of his horse.--As I
have had frequent occasion to mention the plant which the Chopunnish
call quawmash I shall here give a more particular discription of that
plant and the mode of preparing it for food as practiced by the
Chopunnish and others in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains with whom
it forms much the greatest portion of their subsistence. we have never
met with this plant but in or adjacent to a piny or fir timbered
country, and there always in the open grounds and glades; in the
Columbian vally and near the coast it is to be found in small
quantities and inferior in size to that found in this neighbourhood and
in the high rich flatts and vallees within the rocky mountains. it
delights in a black rich moist soil, and even grows most luxuriantly
where the land remains from 6 to nine inches under water untill the
seed are nearly perfect which in this neighbourhood or on these flats
is about the last of this month. neare the river where I had an
opportunity of observing it the seed were begining to ripen on the 9th
inst. and the soil was nearly dry. it seems devoted to it's particular
soil and situation, and you will seldom find it more than a few feet
from the inundated soil tho within it's limits it grows very closely in
short almost as much so as the bulbs will permit; the radix is a
tunicated bulb, much the consistence shape and appearance of the onion,
glutanous or somewhat slymy when chewed and almost tasteless and
without smell in it's unprepared state; it is white except the thin or
outer tunicated scales which are few black and not succulent; this bulb
is from the size of a nutmeg to that of a hens egg and most commonly of
an intermediate size or about as large as an onion of one years growth
from the seed. the radicles are numerous, reather large, white,
flexable, succulent and diverging. the foliage consists of from one to
four seldom five radicale, linear sessile and revolute pointed leaves;
they are from 12 to 18 inches in length and from 1 to 3/4 of an inch in
widest part which is near the middle; the uper disk is somewhat groved
of a pale green and marked it's whole length with a number of small
longitudinal channels; the under disk is a deep glossy green and
smooth. the leaves sheath the peduncle and each other as high as the
surface of the earth or about 2 inches; they are more succulent than
the grasses and less so than most of the fillies hyesinths &c.--the
peduncle is soletary, proceeds from the root, is columner, smooth
leafless and rises to the hight of 2 or 21/2 feet. it supports from 10
to forty flowers which are each supported by seperate footstalk of 1/2
an inch in length scattered without order on the upper portion of the
peduncle. the calix is a partial involucret situated at the base of the
footstalk of each flower on the peduncle; it is long thin and begins to
decline as soon as the corolla expands. the corolla consists of six
long oval, obtusly pointed skye blue or water coloured petals, each
about 1 inch in length; the corolla is regular as to the form and size
of the petals but irregular as to their position, five of them are
placed near ech other pointing upward while one stands horizantally or
pointing downwards, they are inserted with a short claw on the
extremity of the footstalk at the base of the germ; the corolla is of
course inferior; it is also shriveling, and continues untill the seeds
are perfect. The stamens are perfect, six in number; the filaments each
elivate an anther, near their base are flat on the inside and rounded
on the outer terminate in a subulate point, are bowed or bent upwards,
inserted on the inner side and on the base of the claws of the petals,
below the germ, are equal both with rispect to themselves and the
corolla, smooth & membraneous. the Anther is oblong, obtusely pointed,
2 horned or forked at one end and furrowed longitudinally with four
channels, the upper and lower of which seem almost to divide it into
two loabs, incumbent patent, membranous, very short, naked, two valved
and fertile with pollen, which last is of a yellow colour---the anther
in a few hours after the corolla unfoalds, bursts, discharges it's
pollen and becomes very minute and shrivled; the above discription of
the anther is therefore to be understood of it at the moment of it's
first appearance. the pistillum is only one, of which, the germ is
triangular reather swolen on the sides, smooth superior, sessile,
pedicelled, short in proportion to the corolla atho wide or bulky; the
style is very long or longer than the stamens, simple, cilindrical,
bowed or bent upwards, placed on the top of the germ, membranous
shrivels and falls off when the pericarp has obtained its full size.
the stigma is three cleft very minute, & pubescent. the pericarp is a
capsule, triangular, oblong, obtuse, and trilocular with three
longitudinal valves. the seed so far as I could judge are numerous not
very minute and globelar.--soon after the seeds are mature the peduncle
and foliage of this plant perishes, the grownd becomes dry or nearly so
and the root encreases in size and shortly becomes fit for use; this
happens about the middle of July when the natives begin to collect it
for use which they continue untill the leaves of the plant attain some
size in the spring of the year. when they have collected a considerable
quantity of these roots or 20 30 bushels which they readily do by means
of stick sharpened at one end, they dig away the surface of the earth
forming a circular concavity of 21/2 feet in the center and 10 feet in
diameter; they next collect a parsel of split dry wood with which they
cover this bason in the grown perhaps a foot thick, they next collect a
large parsel of stones of about 4 or 6 lbs. weight which are placed on
the dry wood; fire is then set to the wood which birning heats the
stones; when the fire has subsided and the stones are sufficiently
heated which are nearly a red heat, they are adjusted in such manner in
the whole as to form as level a surface as pissible, a small quantity
of earth is sprinkled over the stones and a layer of grass about an
inch thick is put over the stones; the roots, which have been
previously devested of the black or outer coat and radicles which rub
off easily with the fingers, are now laid on in a conical pile, are
then covered with a layer of grass about 2 or 3 inches thick; water is
now thrown on the summit of the pile and passes through the roots and
to the hot stones at bottom; some water is allso poared arround the
edges of the hole and also finds its way to the hot stones; as soon as
they discover from the quantity of steem which issues that the water
has found its way generally to the hot stones, they cover the roots and
grass over with earth to the debth of four inches and then build a fire
of dry wood all over the connical mound which they continue to renew
through the course of the night or for ten or 12 hours after which it
is suffered to cool two or three hours when the earth and grass are
removed and the roots thus sweated and cooked with steam are taken out,
and most commonly exposed to the sun on scaffoalds untill they become
dry, when they are black and of a sweet agreeable flavor. these roots
are fit for use when first taken from the pitt, are soft of a sweetish
tast and much the consistency of a roasted onion; but if they are
suffered to remain in bulk 24 hour after being cooked they spoil. if
the design is to make bread or cakes of these roots they undergo a
second process of baking being previously pounded after the fist baking
between two stones untill they are reduced to the consistency of dough
and then rolled in grass in cakes of eight or ten lbs are returned to
the sweat intermixed with fresh roots in order that the steam may get
freely to these loaves of bread. when taken out the second time the
women make up this dough into cakes of various shapes and sizes usually
from 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thick and expose it on sticks to dry in the
sun, or place it over the smoke of their fires.--the bread this
prepared if kept free from moisture will keep sound for a great length
of time. this bread or the dryed roots are frequently eaten alone by
the natives without further preparation, and when they have them in
abundance they form an ingredient in almost every dish they prepare.
this root is pallateable but disagrees with me in every shape I have
ever used it.
[Clark, June 11, 1806]
Wednesday June 11th 1806
All of our hunters were out by daylight this Morning. Labeech and Shann
was the only Suckcessull hunters, Labeech killed a Black bear and a
large buck, and Gibson killed a very fat Buck. five of the indians also
turned out and hunted untill near Meridn. without having killed any
thing. at 3 P M they all packed up and returned to their village. one
of our men exchanged an indifferent horse for a verey good one with
those people before they left us. in the evening all our hunters turned
out in different directions with a view to find some probable Spot of
killing deer and were directed to lay out all night and hunt in the
morning early. Whitehouse returned this morning to our camp on the
Kooskooske in Serch of his horse.
As I have had frequent occasion to mention the plant which the
Chopunnish and other nations of the Columbia call Quawmash I Shall here
give a more particular discription of that plant and the mode of
prepareing it for food as practiced by the Chopinnish and others in the
vicinity of the Rocky Mountains with whome it forms much the greatest
portion of their Subsistence. we have never met with this plant but in
or adjacent to a piney or fir timbered Country, and there always in the
open grounds and glades; in the Columbian Vally and near the Coast it
is to be found in small quantities and inferior in Size to that found
in this neighbourhood or on those high rich flatts and vallies within
the rocky moun-tains. it delights in a black rich moist Soil, and even
grows most luxuriently where the lands remain from 6 to 9 inches under
water untill the seed are nearly perfect, which in this neighbourhood
or on those flatts is about the last of this month. near the river
where I had an oppertunity of observing it, the Seed were beginning to
ripen on the 9th inst. and the Soil was nearly dry. it seems devoted to
it's particular Soil and Situation, and you will Seldom find more than
a fiew feet from an inundated Soil tho within it's limits it grows very
closely. in short almost as much so as the bulbs will permit. the radix
is a tumicated bulb, much the consistence Shape and appearance of the
Onion, glutinous or somewhat Slymey when chewed and almost tasteless
and without smell in it's unprepared state; it is white except the thin
or outer tumicated scales which are flew black and not Suculent; this
bulb is from the Size of a nutmeg to that of a hen egg and most
commonly of an intermediate size or about as large as a common onion of
one years growth from the Seed. the radicles are noumerous, reather
large, white, flexeable, Succulent and deviding the foliage consists of
from one to four seldom five radicals, liner Sessile and revolute
pointed leaves; they are from 12 to 18 inches in length and from 1 to
3/4 of an inch in widest part which is nearest the middle; the upper
disk is Somewhat groved of a pale green and marked it's whole length
with a number of Small longitudinal channels; the under disk is of a
deep glossy green and Smooth. the leaves sheath the peduncle and each
other as high as the Surface of the earth or about 2 inches; they are
more succulent than the grasses and less so than most of the lillies
hyisinths &c.--the peduncle is soletary, proceeds from the root, is
columner, smooth and leafless and rises to the hight of 2 or 21/2 feet.
it supports from 10 to 40 flowers which are each surported by a
Seperate footstalk of 1/2 an inch in length scattered without order on
the upper portion of the peduncle. the calix is a partial involucre or
involucret Situated at the base of the footstalk of each flower on the
peduncle; it is long thin and begins to decline as soon as the corrolla
expands. the corolla consists of five long oval obtusely pointed Skye
blue or water coloured petals, each about 1 inch in length; the Corolla
is regular as to the form and size of the petals but irregular as to
their position, five of them are placed near each other pointing
upwards while one stands horozontially, or pointing downwards, they are
inserted with a Short Claw on the extremity of the footstalk at the
base of the germ; the corolla is of course inferior; it is also
shriveling, and continues untill the Seed are perfect. The Stamens are
perfect, Six in number; the falaments each elivate an anther, near
their base are flat on the inner side and rounded on the outer,
termonate in a subulate point, and bowed or bent upwards inserted on
the inner Side and on the base of the Claws of the petals, below the
germ, are equal both with respect to themselves and the Corolla, Smooth
membranous. the Anther is oblong obtusely pointed, 2 horned or forked
at one end and furrowed longitudinally with four channels, the upper
and lower of which Seem almost to divide it into two loabs, incumbent,
patent, membranous, very short, necked, two valved and fertile with
pollen, which last is of a yellow colour. the Anther in a fiew hours
after the Corolla unfoalds, bursts discharges it's pollen and becomes
very manute and chrivled; the above discription of the Anther is
therefore to be understood of it, at the moment of it's first
appearance. the pistillum is only one, of which the Germ is triangular
reather Swolen on the Sides, Smooth, Superior, Sessile, pedicelled,
Short in proportion to the Corolla tho wide or bulky; the Style is very
long or longer than the stamens, simple, cilindrical, bowed or bent
upwards, placed on the top of the germ, membranous shrivels and falls
off when the pericarp has obtained it's full Size.
the Stigma is three clefts very manute and pubescent. the pericarp is a
capsule, triangular, oblong, obtuse, and trilocular with three
longitudinal valves. the Seed So far as I could judge are noumerous not
very manute and globilar.--Soon after the seed are mature the peduncle
and foliage of this plant perishes, the ground becoms dry or nearly so
and the root increases in size and shortly become fit for use; this
happens about the middle of July when the nativs begin to collect it
for use which they continue untill the leaves of the plant obtain Some
Size in the Spring of the year. when they have Collected a considerable
quantity of these roots or 20 or 30 bushels which they readily do by
means of Sticks Sharpened at one end, they dig away the surface of the
earth forming a cercular concavity of 21/2 feet in the center and 10
feet in diameter; they next collect a parcel of dry split wood with
which they cover this bason from the bottom perhaps a foot thick, they
next collect a parcel of Stones from 4 to 6 lb. weight which are placed
on the dry wood; fire is then Set to the wood which burning heats the
Stones; when the fire has subsided and the Stones are sufficiently
heated which are nearly a red heat, they are adjusted in such manner in
the hole as to form as leavel a Surface as possible, a small quantity
of earth is Sprinkled over the Stones, and a layer of grass about an
inch thick is laid over the Stone; the roots which have been previously
devested of the black or outer coat and radicles which rub off easily
with the fingers, are now laid on in a circular pile, are then covered
with a layer of grass about 2 or 3 inches thick; water is then thrown
on the Summit of the pile and passes through the roots and to the hot
Stones at bottom; Some water is also pored around the edges of the
hole, and also find it's way to the hot Stones. they cover the roots
and grass over with earth to the debth of four inches and then build a
fire of dry wood all over the Connical mound which they Continue to
renew through the course of the night or for 10 or 12 hours, after
which it is Suffered to cool, 2 or three hours, when the earth and
grass are removed. and the roots thus Sweated are cooled with Steam or
taken out, and most commonly exposed to the Sun on Scaffolds untill
they become dry. when they are black and of a Sweet agreeable flavor.
these roots are fit for use when first taken from the pitt, are Soft of
a Sweetish taste and much the consistancy of a roasted onion; but if
they are Suffered to remain in bulk 24 hours after being cooked they
Spoil. if the design is to make bread or cakes of those roots they
undergo a Second preperation of baking being previously pounded after
the first baking between two Stones untill they are reduced to the
consistancy of dough and then rolled in grass in cakes of 8 or 10
pounds, are returned to the Sweat intermixes with fresh roots in order
that the steam may get freely to those loaves of bread. when taken out
the Second time the Indn. woman make up this dough into cakes of
various Shapes and Sizes, usually from 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thick and
expose it on sticks to dry in the Sun, or place it over the smoke of
their fires.--The bread thus prepared if kept free from moisture will
Sound for a great length of time. this bread or the dryed roots are
frequently eaten alone by the nativs without further preperation, and
when they have them in abundance they form an ingrediant in almost
every dish they prepare. this root is palateable but disagrees with us
in every shape we have ever used it. the nativs are extreemly fond of
this root and present it their visiters as a great treat. when we first
arrived at the Chopunnish last fall at this place our men who were half
Starved made So free a use of this root that it made them all Sick for
Several days after.
[Lewis, June 12, 1806]
Thursday June 12th 1806.
All our hunters except Gibson returned about noon; none of them had
killed anything except Sheilds who brought with him two deer. in the
evening they resumed their hunt and remained out all night. an indian
visited us this evening and spent the night at our camp. Whitehouse
returned with his horse at 1 P.M. the days are now very warm and the
Musquetoes our old companions have become very troublesome. The Cutnose
informed us on the 10th before we left him that two young men would
overtake us with a view to accompany me to the falls of the Missouri.
nothing interesting occurred in the course of this day. our camp is
agreeably situated in a point of timbered land on the eastern border of
an extensive level and beautiful) prarie which is intersected by
several small branches near the bank of one of which our camp is
placed. the quawmash is now in blume and from the colour of its bloom
at a short distance it resembles lakes of fine clear water, so complete
is this deseption that on first sight I could have swoarn it was water.
[Clark, June 12, 1806]
Thursday June 12th 1806.
All our hunters except Gibson returned about noon; none of them had
killed any thing except Shields who brought with him two deer. in the
evening they resumed their hunt and remained out all night. an Indian
visited us this evening and Spent the night at our Camp. Whitehouse
returned with his horse at 1 P.M. the days are very worm and the
Musquetors our old Companions have become very troublesom.
The Cutnose informed us on the 10th before we left him that two young
Chiefs would overtake us with a view to accompany us to the Falls of
the Missouri and probably to the Seat of our Governmt. nothing
interesting occured in the course of this day. our camp is agreeably
Situated in a point of timbered land on the eastern borders of an
extensive leave) and butifull prarie which is intersected by Several
Small branches near the bank of one of which our Camp is placed. the
quawmash is now in blume at a Short distance it resembles a lake of
fine clear water, So complete is this deseption that on first Sight I
could have Sworn it was water.
[Lewis, June 13, 1806]
Friday June 13th 1806.
Reubin Feilds and Willard were ordered to proceed on our road to a
small prarie 8 miles distant on this side of Collins's Creek and there
hunt until our arrival; they departed at 10 A.M. about noon seven of
our hunters returned with 8 deer; they had wounded several others and a
bear but did not get them. in the evening Labuish and Cruzatte returned
and reported that the buzzards had eaten up a deer which they had
killed butchered and hung up this morning. The indian who visited us
yesterday exchanged his horse for one of ours which had not perfectly
recovered from the operation of castration and received a small ax and
a knife to boot, he seemed much pleased with his exchange and set out
immediately to his village, as if fearfull that we would cansel the
bargain which is customary among themselves and deemed only fair. we
directed the meat to be cut thin and exposed to dry in the sun. we made
a digest of the Indian Nations West of the Rocky Mountains which we
have seen and of whom we have been repeated informed by those with whom
we were conversent. they amount by our estimate to 69,000
[Clark, June 13, 1806]
Friday June 13th 1806.
Ordered Rubin Fields and Willard to proceed on to a Small prarie in the
Mountains about 8 miles and there hunt untill we arrive the Set out at
10 A.M. Soon after they Set out all of our hunters returned each with a
deer except Shields who brought two in all 8 deer. Labeech and P.
Crusatt went out this morning killed a deer & reported that the buzzds.
had eate up the deer in their absence after haveing butchered and hung
it up. The indian who visited us yesterday exchanged his horse with one
of our party for a very indiferant one in which exchange he rcived a
Small ax a Knife &c. Soon after he had exchanged he returned to his
village well Satisfied. we caused the meat to be cut thin and dried in
the sun. I make a list of the Indian Nations their place of residence,
and probable number of Soles of each nation from estimation and indian
information &c.
[Lewis, June 14, 1806]
Saturday June 14th 1806. Sent our hunters out early this morning.
Colter killed a deer and brought it in by 10 A.M. the other hunters
except Drewyer returned early without having killed anything. Drewyer
returned. we had all our articles packed up and made ready for an early
departure in the morning. our horses were caught and most of them
hubbled and otherwise confined in order that we might not be detained.
from hence to traveller's rest we shall make a forsed march; at that
place we shal probably remain one or two days to rest ourselves and
horses and procure some meat. we have now been detained near five weeks
in consequence of the snows; a serious loss of time at this delightfull
season for traveling. I am still apprehensive that the snow and the
want of food for our horses will prove a serious imbarrassment to us as
at least four days journey of our rout in these mountains lies over
hights and along a ledge of mountains never intirely destitute of snow.
every body seems anxious to be in motion, convinced that we have not
now any time to delay if the calculation is to reach the United States
this season; this I am detirmined to accomplish if within the compass
of human power.
[Clark, June 14, 1806]
Saturday June 14th 1806
Sent out Hunters this morning Colter killed a deer and brought it in by
10 A M Drewyer did not return untill night he wounded deer but could
get none &c ____ neither of the other hunters killed nothing. we had
our articles packed up ready for a Start in the morning, our horses
Collected and hobble that they may not detain us in the morning. we
expect to Set out early, and Shall proceed with as much expedition as
possible over those Snowey tremendious mountains which has detained us
near five weeks in this neighbourhood waiting for the Snows to melt
Sufficent for us to pass over them. and even now I Shudder with the
expectation with great dificuelties in passing those Mountains, from
the debth of Snow and the want of grass Sufficient to Subsist our
horses as about 4 days we Shall be on the top of the Mountain which we
have every reason to beleive is Covered with Snow the greater part of
the year.
[Lewis, June 15, 1806]
Sunday June 15th 1806.
We had some little difficulty in collecting our horses this morning
they had straggled off to a greater distance than usual. it rained very
hard in the morning and after collecting our horses we waited for it to
abait, but as it had every appearance of a settled rain we set out at
10 A.M. we passed a little prarie at the distance of 81/2 me. to which
we had previously sent R. Feilds and Willard. we found two deer which
they had killed and hung up. at the distance of 21/2 miles further we
arrived at Collins's Creek where we found our hunters; they had killed
another deer, and had seen two large bear together the one black and
the other white. we halted at the creek, dined and graized our horses.
the rains have rendered the road very slippery insomuch that it is with
much difficulty our horses can get on several of them fell but
sustained no injury. after dinner we proceeded up the creek about 1/2 a
mile, passing it three times, thence through a high broken country to
an Easterly fork of the same creek about 101/2 miles and incamped near
a small prarie in the bottom land the fallen timber in addition to the
slippry roads made our march slow and extreemly laborious on our
horses. the country is exceedingly thickly timbered with long leafed
pine, some pitch pine, larch, white pine, white cedar or arborvita of
large size, and a variety of firs. the undergrowth principally reed
root from 6 to 10 feet high with all the other speceis enumerated the
other day. the soil is good; in some plaices it is of a red cast like
our lands in Virginia about the S. W. mountains. Saw the speckled
woodpecker, bee martin and log cock or large woodpecker. found the nest
of a humming bird, it had just began to lay its eggs.--Came 22 Miles
today.
[Clark, June 15, 1806]
Sunday June 15th 1806
Collected our horses early with the intention of makeing an early
Start. Some hard Showers of rain detained us untill ____ A M at which
time we took our final departure from the quawmash fields and proceeded
with much dificuelty owing to the Situation of the road which was very
Sliprey, and it was with great dificulty that the loaded horses Could
assend the hills and Mountains they frequently Sliped down both
assending and decending those Steep hills. at g miles we passed through
a Small prarie in which was quawmash in this Prarie Reubin Fields &
Willard had killed and hung up two deer at 2 miles further we arrived
at the Camp of R. Fields & Willard on Collin's Creek, they arrived at
this Creek last evening and had killed another Deer near the Creek.
here we let our horses graze in a Small glade and took dinner. the rain
Seased and Sun Shown out. after detaining about 2 hours we proceeded on
passing the Creek three times and passing over Some ruged hills or
Spurs of the rocky Mountain, passing the Creek on which I encamped on
the 17th Septr. last to a Small glade of about 10 acres thickly Covered
with grass and quawmash, near a large Creek and encamped. we passed
through bad fallen timber and a high Mountain this evening. from the
top of this Mountain I had an extensive view of the rocky Mountains to
the South and the Columbian plains for great extent also the S W.
Mountains and a range of high Mountains which divides the waters of
Lewis's & Clarks rivers and seems to termonate nearly a West Cours.
Several high pts. to the N & N. E. Covered with Snow. a remarkable high
rugd mountain in the forks of Lewis's river nearly South and covered
with Snow. The vally up the Chopunnish river appears extensive
tolerably leavel and Covered with timber. The S W. Mountain is very
high in a S S W. derection.
[Lewis, June 16, 1806]
Monday June 16th 1806.
We collected our horses very readily this morning, took breakfast and
set out at 6 A.M.; proceeded up the creek about 2 miles through some
handsom meadows of fine grass abounding with quawmash, here we passed
the creek & ascended a ridge which led us to the N. E. about seven
miles when we arrived at a small branch of hungry creek. the difficulty
we met with from the fallen timber detained us untill 11 oC before we
reached this place. here is a handsome little glade in which we found
some grass for our horses we therefore halted to let them graize and
took dinner knowing that there was no other convenient situation for
that purpose short of the glaids on hungry creek where we intended to
encamp, as the last probable place, at which we shall find a sufficient
quantity of grass for many days. this morning Windsor busted his rifle
near the muzzle. before we reached this little branch on which we dined
we saw in the hollows and N. hillsides large quatities of snow yet
undisolved; in some places it was from two to three feet deep.
vegetation is proportionably backward; the dogtooth violet is just in
blume, the honeysuckle, huckburry and a small speceis of white maple
are begining to put fourth their leaves; these appearances in this
comparatively low region augers but unfavourably with rispect to the
practibility of passing the mountains, however we determined to
proceed, accordingly after taking a haisty meal we set out and
continued our rout though a thick wood much obstructed with fallen
timber, and intersepted by many steep ravines and high hills. the snow
has increased in quantity so much that the greater part of our rout
this evening was over the snow which has become sufficiently firm to
bear our horshes, otherwise it would have been impossible for us to
proceed as it lay in immence masses in some places 8 or ten feet deep.
we found much difficulty in pursuing the road as it was so frequently
covered with snow. we arrived early in the evening at the place that
Capt. C. had killed and left the flesh of a horse for us last
September. here is a small glade in which there was some grass, not a
sufficiency for our horses but we thought it most advisable to remain
here all night as we apprehended if we proceeded further we should find
less grass. the air is pleasent in the course of the day but becomes
very cold before morning notwithstanding the shortness of the nights.
Hungry creek is but small at this place but is deep and runs a perfect
torrent; the water is perfectly transparent and as cold as ice. the
pitch pine, white pine some larch and firs constite the timber; the
long leafed pine extends a little distance on this side of the main
branch of Collins's creek, and the white cedar not further than the
branch of hungry creek on which we dined. I killed a small brown
pheasant today, it feeds on the tender leaves and buds of the fir and
pitch pine. in the fore part of the day I observed the Cullumbine the
blue bells and the yelow flowering pea in blume. there is an abundance
of a speceis of anjelico in these mountains, much stonger to the taist
and more highly scented than that speceis common to the U States. know
of no particular virtue or property it possesses; the natives dry it
cut it in small peices which they string on a small cord and place
about their necks; it smells very pleasantly. we came 15 miles today.
[Clark, June 16, 1806]
Monday June 16th 1806
Collected our horses early and Set Out 7 A M proceeded on up the Creek
through a gladey Swompy bottom with grass and quawmash Crossed the
Creek to the East and proceeded on through most intolerable bad fallen
timber over a high Mountain on which great quantity of Snow is yet
lying premisquissly through the thick wood, and in maney places the
banks of snow is 4 feet deep. we noned it or dined on a Small Creek in
a small open Vally where we found Some grass for our horses to eate,
altho Serounded by Snow no other Convenient Situation Short of the
glades on Hungery Creek where we intended to encamp, as the last
probable place, at which we Shall find a Sufficent quantity of grass
for maney days. This morning Windsor bursted his rifle near the Muzzle.
Vigitation is propotionable backward; the dog tooth Violet is just in
blume, the honeysuckle, huckleberry and a Small Species of white maple
are beginning to put foth their leaves, where they are clear of the
Snow, those appearances in this comparratively low region augers but
unfavourably with respect to the practibility of passing the Mountains,
however we deturmine to proceed, accordingly after takeing a hasty meal
we Set out and Continued our rout through a thick wood much obstructed
with fallen timber, and interupted by maney Steep reveins and hills
which wer very high. the Snow has increased in quantity So much that
the great part of our rout this evening was over the Snow which has
become Sufficently firm to bear our horses, otherwise it would have
been impossible for us to proceed as it lay in emince masses in Some
places 8 or ten feet deep. We found much dificulty in finding the road,
as it was So frequently covered with Snow. we arived early in the
evening at the place I had killed and left the flesh of a horse for the
party in my rear last Septr. here is a Small glade in which there is
Some grass, not a Sufficency of our horses, but we thought it
adviseable to remain here all night as we apprehended if we proceeded
further we should find less grass. The air is pleasant in the Course of
the day, but becomes very cold before morning not withstanding the
Shortness of the night. Hungary Creek is but Small at this place but is
deep and runs a perfect torrent; the water is perfectly transparent and
as Cold as ice. the titch pine, white pine Some Larch and firs consists
the timber, the long leafed pine extends but a Short distance on the
Mts. Capt. L. killed a Small brown pheasant today, it feeds on the
tender leaves and buds of the fir and pitch pine. in the forepart of
the day I observed the Cullumbine the blue bells and the Yellow
flowering pea in blume. there is an abundance of a Species of Anjelico
in the mountains much Stronger to the taiste, and more highly Scented
than that Species common to the U States. I know of no particular
virtue or property it possesses the nativs dry it Cut it in Small
pieces which they string on a Small Cord and place about the necks; it
Smells pleasently. we Come 15 Ms. today.
[Lewis, June 17, 1806]
Tuesday June 17th 1806.
we collected our horses and set out early; we proceeded down hungry
creek about seven miles passing it twice; we found it difficult and
dangerous to pass the creek in consequence of its debth and rapidity;
we avoided two other passes of the creek by ascending a very steep
rocky and difficult hill. beyond this creek the road ascends the
mountain to the hight of the main leading ridges which divides the
Waters of the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers. this hill or reather
mountain we ascended about 3 miles when we found ourselves invelloped
in snow from 12 to 15 feet deep even on the south sides of the hills
with the fairest exposure to the sun; here was winter with all it's
rigors; the air was cold, my hands and feet were benumbed. we knew that
it would require five days to reach the fish wears at the entrance of
Colt Creek, provided we were so fortunate as to be enabled to follow
the proper ridges of the mountains to lead us to that place; short of
that point we could not hope for any food for our horses not even
underwood itself as the whole was covered many feet deep in snow. if we
proceeded and should get bewildered in these mountains the certainty
was that we should loose all our horses and consequently our baggage
instruments perhaps our papers and thus eminently wrisk the loss of the
discoveries which we had already made if we should be so fortunate as
to escape with life. the snow boar our horses very well and the
travelling was therefore infinitely better that the obstruction of
rocks and fallen timber which we met with in our passage over last fall
when the snow lay on this part of the ridge in detached spots only.
under these circumstances we conceived it madnes in this stage of the
expedition to proceed without a guide who could certainly conduct us to
the fish wears on the Kooskooske, as our horses could not possibly
sustain a journey of more than five days without food. we therefore
came to the resolution to return with our horses while they were yet
strong and in good order and indevour to keep them so untill we could
procure an indian to conduct us over the snowey mountains, and again to
proceed as soon as we could procure such a guide, knowing from the
appearance of the snows that if we remained untill it had desolved
sufficiently for us to follow the road that we should not be enabled to
return to the United States within this season. having come to this
resolution, we ordered the party to make a deposit for all the baggage
which we had not immediate use for, and also all the roots and bread of
cows which they had except an allowance for a few days to enable them
to return to some place at which we could subsist by hunting untill we
procured a guide. we left our instruments papers &c beleiving them
safer here than to wrisk them on horseback over the roads and creeks
which we had passed. our baggage being laid on scaffoalds and well
covered we began our retrograde march at 1 P.M. having remained about 3
hours on this snowey mountain. we returned by the rout we had come to
hungry creek, which we ascended about 2 miles and encamped. we had here
more grass for our horses than the preceeding evening yet it was but
scant. the party were a good deel dejected tho not so as I had
apprehended they would have been. this is the first time since we have
been on this long tour that we have ever been compelled to retreat or
make a retrograde march. it rained on us most of this evening.
[Clark, June 17, 1806]
Tuesday June 17th 1806
We Collected our horses and Set out early; we proceeded down hungary
Creek about 7 miles passing it twice; we found it dificuelt and
dangerous to pass the creek in consequence of it's debth and rapidity;
we avoided two other passes of the creek, by assending a Steep rockey
and difficuelt hill. beyond this Creek the road assends the mountain to
the hight of the main leading ridges, which divides the waters of the
Kooskooske and Chopunnish Riv's. This mountain we ascended about 3
miles when we found ourselves invelloped in snow from 8 to 12 feet deep
even on the South Side of the mountain. I was in front and Could only
prosue the derection of the road by the trees which had been peeled by
the nativs for the iner bark of which they Scraped and eate, as those
pealed trees were only to be found Scattered promisquisley, I with
great difficulty prosued the direction of the road one mile further to
the top of the mountain where I found the Snow from 12 to 15 feet deep,
but fiew trees with the fairest exposure to the Sun; here was Winter
with all it's rigors; the air was Cold my hands and feet were benumed.
we knew that it would require four days to reach the fish weare at the
enterance of Colt Creek, provided we were So fortunate as to be enabled
to follow the poper ridge of the mountains to lead us to that place; of
this all of our most expert woodsmen and principal guides were
extreemly doubtfull; Short of that point we could not hope for any food
for our horses not even under wood itself as the whole was covered many
feet deep in Snow. if we proceeded and Should git bewildered in those
Mountains the Certainty was that we Should lose all of our horses and
consequencely our baggage enstrements perhaps our papers and thus
eventially resque the loss of our discoveries which we had already made
if we Should be So fortunate as to escape with life. the Snow bore our
horses very well and the traveling was therefore infinately better than
the obstruction of rocks and fallen timber which we met with in our
passage over last fall when the Snow lay on this part of the ridge in
detached spops only. under these Circumstances we Conceived it madness
in this stage of the expedition to proceed without a guide who Could
Certainly Conduct us to the fishwears on the Kooskooske, as our horses
could not possibly Sustain a journey of more than 4 or 5 days without
food. we therefore Come to the resolution to return with our horses
while they were yet strong and in good order, and indeaver to keep them
So untill we could precure an indian to conduct us over the Snowey
Mountains, and again to proceed as soon as we could precure Such a
guide, knowing from the appearance of the snows that if we remained
untill it had disolved Sufficiently for us to follow the road that we
Should not be enabled to return to the United States within this
Season. having come to this resolution, we ordered the party to make a
deposit of all the baggage which we had not imediate use for, and also
all the roots and bread of Cows which they had except an allowance for
a fiew days to enable them to return to Some place at which we could
Subsist by hunting untill we precured a guide. we left our instrements,
and I even left the most of my papers believing them Safer here than to
Wrisk them on horseback over the road, rocks and water which we had
passed. our baggage being laid on Scaffolds and well covered, we began
our retragrade march at 1 P.M. haveing remain'd about three hours on
this Snowey mountain. we returned by the rout we had advanced to
hungary Creek, which we assended about 2 miles and encamped. we had
here more grass for our horses than the proceeding evening, yet it was
but scant. the party were a good deel dejected, tho not as much So as I
had apprehended they would have been. this is the first time Since we
have been on this long tour that we have ever been compelled to retreat
or make a retragrade march. it rained on us the most of this evening.
on the top of the Mountain the Weather was very fluctiating and
uncertain snowed cloudy & fair in a few minets.
[Lewis, June 18, 1806]
Wednesday June 18th 1806.
This morning we had considerable difficulty in collecting our horses
they having straggled off to a considerable distance in surch of food
on the sides of the mountains among the thick timber; at 9 OCk. we
collected them all except one of Drewyers and one of Sheildes; we set
out leaving Sheilds and LaPage to collect the two lost horses and
follow us. We dispatched Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish Indians
in the plains beyond the Kooskooske in order to hasten the arrival of
the indians who had promised to accompany us or to procure a gude at
all events and rejoin us as soon as possible. we sent by them a rifle
which we offered as a reward to any of them who would engage to conduct
us to traveller's rest; we also dirrected them if they found difficulty
in induciny any of them to accompany us to offer the reward of two
other guns to be given them immediately and ten horses at the falls of
Missouri. we had not proceeded far this morning before Potts cut his
leg very badly with one of the large knives; he cut one of the large
veigns on the inner side of the leg; I found much difficulty in stoping
the blood which I could not effect untill I applyed a tight bandage
with a little cushon of wood and tow on the veign below the wound.
Colter's horse fel with him in passing hungry creek and himself and
horse were driven down the creek a considerable distance rolling over
each other among the rocks. he fortunately escaped without injury or
the loss of his gun. by 1 P.M. we returned to the glade on the branch
of hungry Creek where we had dined on the 16th inst. here we again
halted and dined. as there was much appearance of deer about this place
we left R. and J. Feilds with directions to hunt this evening and
tomorrow morning at this place and to join us in the evening at the
meadows of Collin's creek where we intend remaining tomorrow in order
to rest our horses and hunt. after dinner we proceeded on to Collin's
Creek and encamped in a pleasant situation at the upper part of the
meadows about 2 ms. above our encampment of the 15th inst. we sent out
several hunters but they returned without having killed anything. they
saw a number of salmon in the creek and shot at them several times
without success. we directed Colter and Gibson to fix each of them a
gigg in the morning and indevour to take some of the salmon. the
hunters saw much fresh appearance of bear but very little of deer. we
hope by means of the fish together with what deer and bear we can kill
to be enabled to subsist untill our guide arrives without the necessity
of returning to the quawmash flats. there is a great abundance of good
food here to sustain our horses.
[Clark, June 18, 1806]
Wednesday June 18th 1806
This morning we had considerable dificuelty in collecting our horses
they haveing Strageled of to a considerable distance in Serch of food
on the Sides of the mountains among the thick timber, at 9 oClock we
Collected them all except 2 one of Shields & one of Drewyer's. we Set
out leaving Shields and LePage to collect the two lost horses and
follow us.
We dispatched Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish Indians in the
plains beyond the Kooskooske in order to hasten the arrival of the
Indians who promised to accompany us, or to precure a guide at all
events and rejoin us as Soon as possible. We Sent by them a riffle
which we offered as a reward to any of them who would engage to conduct
us to Clarks river at the entrance of Travellers rest Creek; we also
directed them if they found difficuelty in induceing any of them to
accompany us to offer the reward of two other guns to be given them
immediately and ten horses at the falls of Missouri. we had not
proceeded far this morning before J. Potts cut his leg very badly with
one of the large knives; he cut one of the large veins on the iner side
of the leg; Colters horse fell with him in passing hungary creek and
himself and horse were driven down the Creek a considerable distance
roleing over each other among the rocks. he fortunately escaped without
much injurey or the loss of his gun. he lost his blanket. at 1 P. M we
returned to the glade on a branch of hungary Creek where we had dined
on the 16th instant. here we again halted and dined. as there was some
appearance of deer about this place we left J. & R Field with
directions to hunt this evening and tomorrow morning at this place and
join us in the evening in the Meadows on Collin's Creek where we
intended to remain tomorrow in order to restour horses and hunt. after
dinner we proceeded on to the near fork of Collins Creek and encamped
in a pleasant Situation at the upper part of the Meadows about 2 miles
above our encampment of the 15th inst. we Sent out Several hunters but
they returned without having killed any thing-. they saw a number of
large fish in the Creek and Shot at them Several times without
Suckcess. we Gibson and Colter to fix each of themselves a gigg in the
morning and indeaver to take Some of those fish. the hunters Saw much
fresh appearance of Bear, but very little deer Sign. we hope by the
means of the fish together with what deer and bear we can kill to been
abled to Subsist untill our guide arives without the necessaty of
returning to the quawmash flats. there is great abundance of good food
here to Sustain our horses. we are in flattering expectations of the
arrival of two young chiefs who informed us that they intended to
accompany us to the U. States, and Should Set out from their village in
9 nights after we left them on the 19th inst. if they Set out at that
time Drewyer & Shannon will meet them, and probably join us on the 20th
or 21st-. Musquetors Troublesome.
[Lewis, June 19, 1806]
Thursday June 19th 1806.
Our hunters were out very early this morning, they returned before noon
with one deer only. the Fishermen had been more unsuccessfull, they
returned without a single fish and reported they could find but few and
those they had tryed to take in vain. they had broke both their giggs
which were of indian fabrication made of bone. I happened to have a
pointed peice of iron in my pouch which answered by cuting in two
peices to renew boath giggs. they took one fish this evening which
proved to be a salmon trout much to our mortification, for we had hoped
that they were the salmon of this spring arrival and of course fat and
fine. these trout are of the red kind they remain all winter in the
upper parts of the rivers and creeks and are generally poor at this
season. At 2 P.M. J & R Feilds arived with two deer; John Sheilds and
LaPage came with them, they had not succeeded in finding their horses.
late in the evening Frazier reported that my riding horse that of Capt
Clark and his mule had gone on towards the Quawmash flatts and that he
had pursued their tracks on the road about 21/2 miles. we determined to
send out all the hunters in the morning in order to make a fair
experiment of the pactability of our being able to subsist at this
place and if not we shall move the day after to the Quawmash flatts.
the musquetoes have been excessively troublesome to us since our
arrival at this place particularly in the evening. Cruzatte brought me
several large morells which I roasted and eat without salt pepper or
grease in this way I had for the first time the true taist of the
morell which is truly an insippid taistless food. our stock of salt is
now exhausted except two quarts which I have reserved for my tour up
Maria's River and that I left the other day on the mountain.-
[Clark, June 19, 1806]
Thursday June 19th 1806
This morning early Collins Labeesh & Crusat turned out to hunt, and
Gibson & Colter fixed two Indian giggs and went in Serch of fish in the
Creek. I took my gun and walked up the Creek about 4 Miles Saw some
bear Sign and one fish only. Gibson killed only one fish which we found
to be the Salmon Trout of the dark Species. this fish was of the common
Size pore, and indifferently flavoured. Labeesh killed one Deer neither
of the others killed any thing. about 1 P.M. Jo. & R Fields Shields &
LaPage came up. Reubin &Joseph Fields brought two Deer which R. had
killed in the Small glade on a branch of Hungary Creek where we had
left them yesterday. Shields & LaPage did not find the two horses which
we lost yesterday morning. they report that they hunted with great
diligence in the vicinity of our camp of the 17th without suckcess. in
my walk of this day up the Creek I observed a great abundance of fine
grass sufficient to Sustain our horses any length of time we chose to
Stay at this place. Several glades of quawmash. the S W. Sides of the
hills is fallen timber and burnt woods, the N. E. Sides of the hills is
thickly timbered with lofty pine, and thick under growth This evening
Several Salmon trout were Seen in the Creek, they hid themselves under
the banks of the Creek which jutted over in Such a manner as to secure
them from the Stroke of our giggs nets and spears which were made for
the purpose of taking those Salmon trout. we concluded to delay at this
place another day with a view to give time to the two young Chiefs to
arrive in case they set out on the 19th inst. as they informed us they
Should they will have Sufficient time to join us tomorrow or early the
next day. Should we get a guide from this place it will Save us two
days march through some of the worst road through those Mountains,
crouded with fallin timber mud holes and steep hills &c. we directed
all the hunters to turn out early and kill something for us to live on
&c. Musquetors troublesom
[Lewis, June 20, 1806]
Friday June 20th 1806.
Our hunters set out early this morning; most of them returned before
noon. R. Feilds killed a brown bear the tallons of which were
remarkably short broad at their base and sharply pointed this was of
the speceis which the Chopunnish call Yah-kar. it was in very low order
and the flesh of the bear in this situation is much inferior to lean
venison or the flesh of poor Elk. Labush and Cruzatte returned late in
the evening with one deer which the former had killed. we also caught
seven salmon trout in the course of the day. the hunters assured us
that their greatest exertions would not enable them to support us here
more than one or two days longer from the great scarcity of game and
the difficult access of the country, the under brush being very thick
and great quantities of fallen timber. as we shall necessarily be
compelled to remain more than two days for the return of Drewyer and
Shannon we determined to return in the morning as far as the quawmash
flatts and indeavour to lay in another stock of meat for the mountains,
our former stock being now nearly exhausted as well as what we have
killed on our return. by returning to the quawmash flatts we shall
sooner be informed whether or not we can procure a guide to conduct us
through the mountains; should we fail in procuring one, we have
determined to wrisk a passage on the following plan immediately,
because should we wait much longer or untill the snow desolves in such
manner as to enable us to follow the road we cannot hope to reach the
United States this winter; this is that Capt. C. or myself shall take
four of our most expert woodsmen with three or four of our best horses
and proceed two days in advance taking a plentiful) supply of
provision. for this party to follow the road by the marks which the
baggage of the indians has made in many places on the sides of the
trees by rubing against them, and to blaize the trees with a tomahawk
as they proceeded. that after proceeding two days in advance of hungary
creek two of those men would be sent back to the main party who by the
time of their return to Hungary Creek would have reached that place.
the men so returning would be enabled to inform the main party of the
probable success of the preceeding party in finding the road and of
their probable progress, in order that should it be necessary, the main
party by the delay of a day or two at hungary creek, should give the
advance time to mark the road through before the main party could
overtake them, and thus prevent delay on the part of the rout where no
food is to be obtained for our horses. should it so happen that the
advance could not find the road by the marks on the trees after
attempting it for two days, the whole of then would return to the main
party. in which case we wold bring back our baggage and attempt a
passage over these mountains through the country of the Shoshones
further to the South by way of the main S. Westerly fork of Lewis's
river and Madison or Gallatin's rivers, where from the information of
the Chopunnish there is a passage which at this season of the year is
not obstructed by snow, though the round is very distant and would
require at least a month in it's performance. The Shoshones informed us
when we first met with them that there was a passage across the
mountains in that quarter but represented the difficulties arrising
from steep high and rugged mountains and also an extensive and barren
plain which was to be passed without game, as infinitely more difficult
than the rout by which we came. from the circumstance of the Chopunnish
being at war with that part of the Shoshones who inhabit the country on
this side of the Mountains through which the road passes I think it is
highly probable that they cannot be well informed with rispect to the
road, and further, had there been a better road in that quarter the
Shoshones on the East fork of Lewis's river who knew them both would
not have recommended that by which we came to this country. the
travelling in the mountains on the snow at present is very good, the
snow bears the horses perfictly; it is a firm coase snow without a
crust, and the horses have good foot hold without sliping much; the
only dificulty is finding the road, and I think the plan we have
devised will succeed even should we not be enabled to obtain a guide.
Although the snow may be stated on an average at 10 feet deep yet
arround the bodies of the trees it has desolved much more than in other
parts not being generally more than one or two feet deep immediately at
the roots of the trees, and; of course the marks left by the rubing of
the indian baggage against them is not concealed. the reason why the
snow is comparitively so shallow about the roots of the trees I presume
proceeds as well from the snow in falling being thrown off from their
bodies by their thick and spreading branches as from the reflection of
the sun against the trees and the warmth which they in some measure
acquire from the earth which is never frozen underneath these masses of
snow. Bratton's horse was also discovered to be absent this evening. I
presume he has also returned to the flatts.
[Clark, June 20, 1806]
Friday June 20th 1806
The hunters turned out early in different directions, our guiggers also
turned out with 2 guigs a Bayonet fixed on a pole, a Scooping nett and
a Snar made of horse. near the ford of the Creek in a deep hole we
killed Six Salmon trout & 2 others were killed in the Creek above in
the evening. Reubin Field killed a redish brown bear which was very
meagure. the tallons of this bear was remarkably Short broad at their
base and Sharply pointed, this was of the Species the Chopunnish call
Yahkar. as it was in very low order the flesh was indifferent. Labiesh
& Crusat returned late in the evening with one deer which the former
had killed. the hunters assured us that, their greatest exertions would
not enable them to support us here more than one or two days longer,
from the great scercity of game and the dificuelt access of the
Country, the under brush being very thick and great quantities of
fallen timber. as we shall necessarily be compelled to remain more than
two days for the return of Drewyer & Shannon we determine to return in
the morning as far as the quawmash flatts, and endeaver to lay in
another Stock of meat for the mountains, our former Stock now being
nearly exhosted as well as what we have killed on our rout. by
returning to the quawmash flatts we Shall Sooner be informed wheather
or not we can precure a guide to conduct us through the Mountains;
Should we fail in precureing one, we are deturmined to wrisk a passage
on the following plan immediately, because Should we wait much longer,
or untill the Snow disolves in Such manner as to enable us to follow
the road we cannot expect to reach the U States this Winter; this is
that Capt. L. or myself shall take four of our most expert woods men
with 3 or four of our best horses and proceed two days in advance
takeing a plentiful Supply of provisions. for this party to follow the
road by the mark the indins have made in many places with their baggage
on the Sides of the trees by rubbing against them, and to blaize the
trees with a tomahawk as they proceed. that after proceeding two days
in advance of Hungary Creek, two of those men would be sent back to the
party who by the time of their return to hungary Creek would have
reached that place. the men So returning would be enabled to inform the
main party of the probable Suckcess of the proceeding party in finding
the road and of their probable progress, in order that Should it be
necessary, the main party by a delay of a day or two a hungary Creek,
should give the advance time to make the road through before the main
party could overtake them, and thus prevent delay on that part of the
rout where no food is to be obtained for our horses. Should it So
happen that the advance Should not find the road by the marks of the
trees after attempting it for two days, the whole of them would return
to the main party. in which Case we would bring back our baggage and
attempt a passage over the Mountains through the Country of the
Shoshones further to the South, by way of the main S Westerly fork of
Lewis's river and Madisons or Gallitins river's, where from the
information of the Chopunnish, there is a passage where at this season
of the year is not obstructed by snow, though the round is very distant
and would require at least a month in it's preformance. The Shoshones
informed us when we first met with them that there was a passage across
the Mountains in that quarter but represented the difficuelties
arriseing from Steep ruggid high mountains, and also an extensive and
barren plain which was to be passed without game, as infinitely more
difficuelt than the rout by which we Came. from the Circumstance of the
Chopunnish being at war with that part of the Shoshones who inhabit the
Country on this side of the Mountains through which the road passes, I
think it is highly probable they cannot be well informed with respect
to the road, and further, had there been a better road in that quarter
the Shoshones on the East fork of Lewis's river who knew them boath
would not have recommend'd that by which we came to this country. The
travelling in the Mountains on the Snow, at present is very good, the
Snow bears the horses perfectly; it is a firm coase Snow without a
crust, and the horses have good foot hold without slipping much; the
only dificuelty is finding the road, and I think the plan we have
devised will Suckceed even Should we not be enabled to obtain a guide.
altho the Snow may be Stated on an average at 10 feet deep, yet arround
the body of the trees it has disolved much more than in other parts,
not being generally more than one or two feet deep imediately at the
roots of the trees, and of course the marks made by the rubbing of the
Indian baggage against them is not Concealed. The reason why the Snow
is comparitively So Shallow about the roots of the trees, 1 prosume
proceeds as well from the Snow in falling being thrown off from their
bodies by the thick and Spreading branches, as from the reflection of
the Sun against the trees and the warmth which they in Some measure
acquire from the earth which is never frozen underneath those masses of
Snow. 4 of our horses are absent.
[Lewis, June 21, 1806]
Saturday June 21st 1806.
We collected our horses early set out on our return to the flatts. we
all felt some mortification in being thus compelled to retrace our
steps through this tedious and difficult part of our rout, obstructed
with brush and innumerable logs of fallen timber which renders the
traveling distressing and even dangerous to our horses. one of
Thompson's horses is either choked this morning or has the distemper
very badly I fear he is to be of no further service to us. an excellent
horse of Cruzatte's snagged himself so badly in the groin in jumping
over a parsel of fallen timber that he will evidently be of no further
service to us. at the pass of Collin's Creek we met two indians who
were on their way over the mountain; they had brought with them the
three horses and the mule that had left us and returned to the quawmash
grounds. these indians returned with us about 1/2 a mile down the creek
where we halted to dine and graize our horses at the same place I had
halted and remained all night with the party on the ____ of Septembr
last. as well as we could understand the indians they informed us that
they had seen Drewyer and Shannon and that they would not return untill
the expiration of two days; the cause why Drewyer and Shannon had not
returned with these men we are at a loss to account for. we pressed
these indians to remain with us and to conduct us over the mountain on
the return of Drewyer and Shannon. they consented to remain two nights
for us and accordingly deposited their store of roots and bread in the
bushes at no great distance and after dinner returned with us, as far
as the little prarie about 2 miles distant from the creek, here they
halted with their horses and informed us they would remain untill we
overtook them or at least two nights. they had four supenumery horses
with them. we sent on four hunters a head to the quawmash flatts to
take an evenings hunt; they so far succeeded as to kill one deer. we
left Reubin and J. Feilds at the Creek where we dined together with
Sergt Gass in order to hunt about that place untill our return. at
seven in the evening we found ourselves once more at our old encampment
where we shall anxiously await the return of Drewyer and Shannon.
[Clark, June 21, 1806]
Saturday June 21st 1806
We collected our horses early and Set out on our return to the flatts.
we all felt Some mortification in being thus compelled to retrace our
Steps through this tedious and difficuelt part of our rout, obstructed
with brush and innumerable logs and fallen timber which renders the
traveling distressing and even dangerous to our horses. one of
Thompsons horses is either choked this morning or has the distemper
badly. I fear he is to be of no further Survice to us. an excellent
horse of Cruzatt's snagged himself So badly in the groin in jumping
over a parcel of fallen timber that he will eventually be of no further
Survice to us. at the pass of Collin's Creek we met two indians who
were on their way over the mountains, they had brought with them the
three horses and the Mule which had left us and returned to the
quawmash ground. those indians returned with us about 1/2 a mile down
the Creek where we halted to dine and graze our horses. as well as we
Could understand the indians they informed us they had Seen Geo Drewyer
& Shannon, and that they would not return untill the expiration of two
days. the cause why Drewyer & Shannon did not return with these men we
are at a loss to account for. we pressed those indians to remain with
us and conduct us over the Mountains on the return of Drewyer &
Shannon. they consented to remain two nights for us and accordingly
deposited their Stores of roots & Bread in the bushes at no great
distance and after Dinner returned with us, as far as the little prarie
about 2 Miles distance from the Creek, here they halted with their
horses and informed us they would remain untill we overtook them or at
least 2 nights. they had four Supernoumery horses with them. We Sent on
four hunters a head to the quawmash flatts to make an evening hunt;
they So far Suckceeded as to kill one deer. We left R. and Jo. Fields
at the Creek where we dined, and Sergt. Gass in order to hunt about
that place untill our return. at 7 in the evening we found ourselves
once more at our old encampment where we Shall anxiously await the
return of Drewyer & Shannon.
[Lewis, June 22, 1806]
Sunday June 22nd 1806.
this morning by light all hands who could hunt were sent out; the
result of this days perfomance was greater than we had even hoped for.
we killed eight deer and three bear. we dispatched Whitehouse to the
Kooskooske near our old encampment above Collins's Creek in order to
procure some Salmon which we have understood the natives are now taking
in considerable quantities near that place. we gave Whitehouse a few
beads which Capt. C. had unexpectedly found in one of his waistcoat
pockets to purchase the fish. nothing further worthy of notice occurred
in the course of this day. the last evening was cool but the day was
remarkably pleasent with a fine breize from the N. W. neither Drewyer
Shannon nor Whitehouse returned this evening.--Potts's legg is inflamed
and very painfull to him. we apply a poltice of the roots of Cows.-
[Clark, June 22, 1806]
Sunday June 22nd 1806
This morning by light all hands who Could hunt were Sent out, the
result of the days performance was greater than we had even hopes for.
we killed eight Deer and three Bear. we despatched whitehouse to the
Kooskooke near our old encampment above Collins Creek in order to
precure Some Salmon which we understood the nativs are now takeing in
considerable quantities near that place. we gave whitehouse a fiew
beeds which I unexpectedly found in one of my waistcoat pockets to
purchase the fish. nothing further occured in the Course of this day.
the last evening was Cool but the day was remarkably pleasant with a
fine breeze from the N. W. neither Shannon Drewyer nor whitehouse
returned this evening.--Potts legg is inflamed and very painfull to
him. we apply a poltice of the root of Cowes
[Lewis, June 23, 1806]
Monday June 23rd 1806.
Apprehensive from Drewyer's delay that he had met with some difficulty
in procuring a guide, and also that the two indians who had promised to
wait two nights for us would set out today, we thought it most
advisable to dispatch Frazier and Wiser to them this morning with a vew
if possible to detain them a day or two longer; and directed that in
the event of their not being able to detain the indians, that Sergt.
Gass, R & J. Feilds and Wiser should accompany the indians by whatever
rout they might take to travellers rest and blaize the trees well as
they proceeded and wait at that place untill our arrivall with the
party. the hunters as usual wer dispatched early this morning. the does
now having their fawns the hunters can bleat them up and in that manner
kill them with more facility and ease. the indians pursue the game so
much on horseback in this neighbourhood that it is very shye. our
hunters killed 4 deer and a bear today. at 4 P.M. Drewyer Shannon and
Whitehouse returned. Drewyer brought with him three indians who had
consented to accompany us to the falls of the Missouri for the
compensation of two guns. one of those men is the brother of the
cutnose and the other two are the same who presented Capt. Clark and
myself each with a horse on a former occasion at the Lodge of the
broken arm. these are all young men of good character and much
respected by their nation. we directed the horses to be brought near
camp this evening and secured in such manner that they may be readily
obtained in the morning being determined to make an early start if
possible.--Colter one of our hunters did not return this evening.
[Clark, June 23, 1806]
Monday June 23rd 1806
Apprehensive from Drewyer & Shannons delay that they had met with Some
dif icuelty in precureing a guide, and also that the two indians who
had promised to wait two nights for us would Set out today, we thought
it most adviseable to dispatch Wizer & Frazier to them this morning
with a view if possible to detain them a day or two longer; and
directed that in the event of their not being able to detain the
indians, that Sergt. Gass, Jo. & R. Field & Wiser Should accompany the
Indians by whatever rout they might take to travellers rest and blaize
the trees well as they proceeded, and wait at that place untill our
arival with the party. the hunters as usial were dispatched early this
morning. The does now haveing their young the hunters can blait them
up, and in that manner kill them with more facillity and ease. the
indians pursue the game So much on horse back in this neighbourhood
that it is very Shye. our hunters killed ____ deer today. at 4 P.M.
Shannon Drewyer & Whitehouse returned. Shannon & Drewyer brought with
them three indians who had consented to accompany us to the falls of
the Missouri for the Compensation of 2 guns. one of those men is the
brother of the Cutnose and the other two are the Same who presented
Capt L. and myself with a horse on a former occasion at the Lodge of
the broken arm, and the two who promised to pursue us in nine nights
after we left the river, or on the 19th inst. Those are all young men
of good Charrector and much respected by their nation. those men infor
us that thir nation as well as the Wallar-wallars have made peace with
the Shoshones agreeable to our late advice to them. they also inform us
that they have heard by means of the Skeetsomis Nation & Clarks river
that the Big bellies of Fort de Prarie Killed great numbers of the
Shoshons and Otte lee Shoots which we met with last fall on the East
fork of Lewis's river and high up the West fork of Clarks river &c.
We directed the horses to be brought near Camp and secured in Such a
manner that they may be readily obtained in the morning being
deturmined to make an early Start if possible-.--Colter one of our
hunters did not return this evening
[Lewis, June 24, 1806]
Tuesday June 24th 1806.
We collected our horses early this morning and set out accompanyed by
our three guides. Colter joined us this morning having killed a bear,
which from his discription of it's poverty and distance we did not
think proper to send after. we nooned it as usual at Collins's Creek
where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men having gone in
pursuit of the two indian men who had set out from Collins's Creek two
hours before Frazier and Wizer arrived. after dinner we continued our
rout to Fish Creek a branch of Collins's Creek where we had lain on the
19th & 20th inst. here we found Sergt. Gass Wiser and the two indians
whom they had prevailed on to remain at that place untill our arrival;
R. & J. Feilds had only killed one small deer only while they lay at
Collins's Creek and of this they had been liberal to the indians
insomuch that they had no provision; they had gone on to the branch of
hungary Creek at which we shall noon it tomorrow in order to hunt. we
had fine grass for our horses this evening.
[Clark, June 24, 1806]
Tuesday June 24th 1806
We collected our horses early this morning and Set out accompanied by
our 3 guides. Colter joined us this morning haveing killed a Bear,
which from his discription of it's poverty and distance we did not
think proper to send after. We nooned it as usial at Collins's Creek
where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men haveing Born in
pursute of the two indians who had Set out from Collin's Creek two
hours before Fraziers arrival Wiser arrived there. after dinner we
Continued our rout to fish Creek a branch of Collin's creek where we
had lain the 15th 18th 19th & 20th inst. here we found Sargt. Gass,
Wiser and the two indian men whome they had prevaild on to remain at
that place untill our arival; Jos. & R. Field had killed one Small deer
only while they lay at Collins creek, and of this they had been liberal
to the indians insomuch that they had no provisions; they had gone on
to the branch of hungary Creek at which we shall noon it tomorrow in
order to hunt. we had fine grass for our horses this evening.
[Lewis, June 25, 1806]
Wednesday June 25th 1806.
last evening the indians entertained us with seting the fir trees on
fire. they have a great number of dry lims near their bodies which when
set on fire creates a very suddon and immence blaze from bottom to top
of those tall trees. they are a beatifull object in this situation at
night. this exhibition reminded me of a display of fireworks. the
natives told us that their object in seting those trees on fire was to
bring fair weather for our journey.--We collected our horses readily
and set out at an early hour this morning. one of our guides complained
of being unwell, a symptom which I did not much like as such complaints
with an indian is generally the prelude to his abandoning any
enterprize with which he is not well pleased. we left them at our
encampment and they promised to pursue us in a few hours. at 11 A.M. we
arrived at the branch of hungary creek where we found R. & J. Feilds.
they had not killed anything. here we halted and dined and our guides
overtook us. at this place I met with a plant the root of which the
shoshones eat. it is a small knob root a good deel in flavor an
consistency like the Jerusalem Artichoke. it has two small oval smooth
leaves placed opposite on either side of the peduncle just above the
root. the scape is only about 4 inches long is round and smooth. the
roots of this plant formed one of those collections of roots which
Drewyer took from the Shoshones last summer on the head of Jefferson's
river. after dinner we continued our rout to hungary Creek and encamped
about one and a half miles below our encampment of the 16th inst.--the
indians continued with us and I beleive are disposed to be faithfull to
their engagement. I gave the sik indian a buffaloe robe he having no
other covering except his mockersons and a dressed Elkskin without the
hair. Drewyer and Sheilds were sent on this morning to hungry Creek in
surch of their horses which they fortunately recovered.
[Clark, June 25, 1806]
Wednesday June 25th 1806
last evening the indians entertained us with Setting the fir trees on
fire. they have a great number of dry limbs near their bodies which
when Set on fire create a very Sudden and eminence blaize from bottom
to top of those tail trees. they are a boutifull object in this
Situation at night. this exhibition remide me of a display of firewoks.
the nativs told us that their object in Setting those trees on fire was
to bring fair weather for our journey-. We Collected our horses and Set
out at an early hour this morning. one of our guides Complained of
being unwell, a Symptom which I did not much like as such complaints
with an indian is generally the prelude to his abandoning any
enterprize with which he is not well pleased. we left 4 of those
indians at our encampment they promised to pursue us in a fiew hours.
at 11 A.M. we arrived at the branch of hungary Creek where we found Jo.
& R. Fields. they had not killed anything. here we halted and dined and
our guides overtook us. at this place the squaw Collected a parcel of
roots of which the Shoshones Eat. it is a Small knob root a good deel
in flavour and Consistency like the Jerusolem artichoke. it has two
Small Smooth oval leaves placed opposit on either Side of the peduncle
just above the root. the scope is only about 4 inches long is round and
Smooth. the roots of this plant forms one of the Colection of roots
which D-. took from the Shoshones last fall on the head of Jefferson
river. after dinner we continued our rout to hungary creek and encamped
about one and a half miles below our Encampment of the 16th inst.--The
indians all continue with us and I beleive are disposed to be faithfull
to their engagements. Capt. L. gave the Sick indian a Small buffalow
robe which he brought from the Missouri, this indian having no other
Covering except his mockersons and a dressed Elk Skin without the
hair-. Drewyer & Shields were sent on this morning to hungary Creek in
serch of their horses which they fortunately recovered.---came ____
miles to daye.
[Lewis, June 26, 1806]
Thursday June 26th 1806.
This morning we collected our horses and set out after an early
breakfast or at 6 A.M. we passed by the same rout we had travelled on
the 17th inst. to our deposit on the top of the snowey mountain to the
N. E. of hungary Creek. here we necessarily halted about 2 hours to
arrange our baggage and prepare our loads. we cooked and made a haisty
meal of boiled venison and mush of cows. the snow has subsided near
four feet since the 17th inst. we now measured it accurately and found
from a mark which we had made on a tree when we were last here on the
17th that it was then 10 feet 10 inches which appeared to be about the
common debth though it is deeper still in some places. it is now
generally about 7 feet. on our way up this mountain about the border of
the snowey region we killed 2 of the small black pheasant and a female
of the large dommanicker or speckled pheasant, the former have 16
fathers in their tail and the latter 20 while the common pheasant have
only 18. the indians informed us that neither of these speceis drumed;
they appear to be very silent birds for I never heared either of them
make a noise in any situation. the indians haistened to be off and
informed us that it was a considerable distance to the place which they
wished to reach this evening where there was grass for our horses.
accordingly we set out with our guides who lead us over and along the
steep sides of tremendious mountains entirely covered with snow except
about the roots of the trees where the snow had sometimes melted and
exposed a few square feet of the earth. we ascended and decended
severall lofty and steep hights but keeping on the dividing ridge
between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers we passed no stream of
water. late in the evening much to the satisfaction of ourselves and
the comfort of our horses we arrived at the desired spot and encamped
on the steep side of a mountain convenient to a good spring. having
passed a few miles our camp of 18 Sepr 1805 here we found an abundance
of fine grass for our horses. this situation was the side of an
untimbered mountain with a fair southern aspect where the snows from
appearance had been desolved about 10 days. the grass was young and
tender of course and had much the appearance of the greenswoard. there
is a great abundance of a speceis of bear-grass which grows on every
part of these mountains it's growth is luxouriant and continues green
all winter but the horses will not eat it. soon after we had encamped
we were overtaken by a Chopunnish man who had pursued us with a view to
accompany me to the falls of the Missouri. we were now informed that
the two young men whom we met on the 21st and detained several days are
going on a party of pleasure mearly to the Oote-lash-shoots or as they
call them Sha-lees a band of the Tush-she-pah nation who reside on
Clark's river in the neighbourhood of traveller's rest. one of our
guides lost 2 of his horses, which he returned in surch of; he found
them and rejoined us a little before dark.
[Clark, June 26, 1806]
Thursday June 26th 1806
We collected our horses and Set out early and proceeded on Down hungary
Creek a fiew miles and assended to the Summit of the mountain where we
deposited our baggage on the 17th inst. found every thing Safe and as
we had left them. the Snow which was 10 feet 10 inches deep on the top
of the mountain, had sunk to 7 feet tho perfectly hard and firm. we
made Some fire Cooked dinner and dined, while our horses Stood on snow
7 feet deep at least. after dinner we packed up and proceeded on. about
the borders of the Snowey region we killed 2 Small black pheasents and
a female of the large dommanicker or Speckled pheasent, the former have
16 feathers in the tail and the latter 20 while the common Pheasent
have 18. the indians informed us that neither of these Speces drumed;
they appear to be very Silent birds for I never heard any of them make
any noise. the Indians hastened us off and informed us that it was a
considerable distance to the place they wished to reach this evening
where there was grass for our horses. accordingly we Set out with our
guides who led us over and along the Steep Sides of tremendious
Mountains entirely covered with Snow except about the roots of the
trees where the Snow was partially melted and exposed a Small Spot of
earth. we assended and decended Several Steep lofty hights but keeping
on the dividing ridge of the Chopunnish & Kooskooske river we passed no
Stream of water. late in the evening much to the Satisfaction of
ourselves and the Comfort of the horses we arived at the desired Spot
and Encamped on the Steep Side of a Mountain Convenient to a good
Spring. here we found an abundance of fine grass for our horses. this
Situation was the Side of an untimbered mountain with a fair Southern
aspect where the Snow from appearance had been disolved about 10 days,
the grass was young and tender of course and had much the appearance of
the Green Swoard. there is a great abundance of Species of bear grass
which grows on every part of those Mountains, its growth is luxurient
and continues green all winter but the horses will not eate it. Soon
after we had encamped we were over taken by a Chopunnish man who had
pursued us with a view to accompany Capt Lewis to the falls of
Missouri. we were now informed that the two young men we met on the
21st and detained Several days were going on a party of pleasure mearly
to the Oat-lash-shoots or as they call them Sha-lees a band of the
Tush-she-pah Nation who reside on Clarks river in the neighbourhood of
the Mouth of Travelers rest. one of our Guides lost 2 of his horses, he
returned in Serch of them he found them & rejoined us at Dark. all of
the Indians with us have two & 3 horses each. I was taken yesterday
with a violent pain in my head which has tormented me ever Since, most
violently
[Lewis, June 27, 1806]
Friday June 27th 1806.
We collected our horses early and set out. the road still continued on
the heights of the same dividing ridge on which we had traveled
yesterday for nine miles or to our encampment of the 18th of September
last. about one mile short of this encampment on an elivated point we
halted by the request of the Indians a few minutes and smoked the pipe.
on this eminence the natives have raised a conic mound of stones of 6
or eight feet high and on it's summit erected a pine pole of 15 feet
long from hence they informed us that when passing over with their
familes some of the men were usually sent on foot by the fishery at the
entrance of Colt Creek in order to take fish and again met the main
party at the Quawmash glade on the head of the Kooskooske river. from
this place we had an extensive view of these stupendous mountains
principally covered with snow like that on which we stood; we were
entirely surrounded by those mountains from which to one unacquainted
with them it would have seemed impossible ever to have escaped; in
short without the assistance of our guides I doubt much whether we who
had once passed them could find our way to Travellers rest in their
present situation for the marked trees on which we had placed
considerable reliance are much fewer and more difficult to find than we
had apprehended. these fellows are most admireable pilots; we find the
road wherever the snow has disappeared though it be only for a few
hundred paces. after smoking the pipe and contemplating this seene
sufficient to have damp the sperits of any except such hardy travellers
as we have become, we continued our march and at the distance of 3 ms.
decended a steep mountain and passed two small branches of the
Chopunnish river just above their forks and again ascended the ridge on
which we passed several miles and at a distance of 7 ms. arrived at our
encampment of September near which we passed 3 small branches of the
Chopunnish river and again ascended to the dividing ridge on which we
continued nine miles when the ridge became lower and we arrived at a
situation very similar to our encampment of the last evening tho the
ridge was somewhat higher and the snow had not been so long desolved of
course there was but little grass. here we encamped for the night
having traveled 28 miles over these mountains without releiving the
horses from their packs or their having any food. the indians inform us
that there is an abundance of the mountain sheep or what they call
white buffaloe. we saw three black-tailed or mule deer this evening but
were unable to get a shoot at them. we also saw several tracks of those
animals in the snow. the indians inform that there is great abundance
of Elk in the vally about the Fishery on the Kooskooske River. our meat
being exhausted we issued a pint of bears oil to a mess which with
their boiled roots made an agreeable dish. Potts's legg which has been
much swolen and inflamed for several days is much better this evening
and gives him but little pain. we applyed the pounded roots and leaves
of the wild ginger & from which he found great relief.--neare our
encampment we saw a great number of the yellow lilly with reflected
petals in blume; this plant was just as forward here at this time as it
was in the plains on the 10th of may.
[Clark, June 27, 1806]
Friday June 27th 1806
We collected our horses early and Set out. the road Still Continue on
the hights of the Dividing ridge on which we had traveled yesterday for
9 Ms. or to our encampment of the 16th Septr. last. about 1 m. Short of
the encampment we halted by the request of the Guides a fiew minits on
an ellevated point and Smoked a pipe on this eminance the nativs have
raised a conic mound of Stons of 6 or 8 feet high and erected a pine
pole of 15 feet long. from hence they informed us that when passing
over with their families some of the men were usually Sent on foot by
the fishery at the enterance of Colt Creek in order to take fish and
again meet the party at the quawmash glade on the head of Kooskoske
river. from this place we had an extencive view of these Stupendeous
Mountains principally Covered with Snow like that on which we Stood; we
were entirely Serounded by those mountains from which to one
unacquainted with them it would have Seemed impossible ever to have
escaped, in short without the assistance of our guides, I doubt much
whether we who had once passed them could find our way to Travellers
rest in their present Situation for the marked trees on which we had
placed Considerable reliance are much fewer and more difficuelt to find
than we had apprehended. those indians are most admireable pilots; we
find the road wherever the Snow has disappeared tho it be only for a
fiew paces. after haveing Smoked the pipe and Contemplating this Scene
Sufficient to have dampened the Spirits of any except Such hardy
travellers as we have become, we continued our march and at the dist.
Of 3 m. decended a Steep mountain and passed two Small branches of the
Chopunnish river just above their fok, and again assend the ridge on
which we passed. at the distance of 7 m. arived at our Encampment of
16th Septr. last passed 3 Small branches passed on a dividing ridge
rugid and we arived at a Situation very Similar to our Situation of
last night tho the ridge was Somewhat higher and the Snow had not been
So long disolved of course there was but little grass. here we Encamped
for the night haveing traveled 28 Ms. over these mountains without
releiveing the horses from their packs or their haveing any food. the
Indians inform us that there is an abundance of the Mountain Sheep, or
what they Call white Buffalow on those Mountains. we Saw 3 black tail
or mule deer this evening but were unable to get a Shoot at them. we
also Saw Several tracks of those animals in the snow. our Meat being
exhosted we issued a point of Bears Oil to a mess which with their
boiled roots made an agreeable dish. Jo. Potts leg which had been much
Swelled and inflaimed for several days is much better this evening and
givs him but little pain. we applied the poundd root & leaves of wild
ginger from which he found great relief. Near our encampment we saw
great numbers of the Yellow lilly with reflected petals in blume; this
plant was just as foward here at this time as it was in the plains on
the 10th of May. My head has not pained me so much to day as yesterday
and last night.
[Lewis, June 28, 1806]
Saturday June 28th 1806.
This morning we collected our horses and set out as usual after an
early breakfast. several of our horses had straggled to a considersble
distance in surch of food but we were fortunate enough to find them in
good time they look extreemly gant this morning, however the indians
informed us that at noon we would arrive at a place where there was
good food for them. we continued our rout along the dividing ridge
passing one very deep hollow and at the distance of six miles passed
our encampment of the 16 of September last, one and a half miles
further we passed the road which leads by the fishery falling in on the
wright immediately on the dividing ridge about eleven O'clock we
arrived at an untimbered side of a mountain with a Southern aspect just
above the fishery here we found an abundance of grass for our horses as
the Indians had informed us. as our horses were very hungary and much
fatiegued and from information no other place where we could obtain
grass for them within the reach of this evening's travel we determined
to remain at this place all night having come 13 miles only. the water
was distant from our encampment we therefore melted snow and used the
water principally. the whole of the rout of this day was over deep
snows. we find the traveling on the snow not worse than without it, as
the easy passage it gives us over rocks and fallen timber fully
compensate for the inconvenience of sliping, certain it is that we
travel considerably faster on the snow than without it. the snow sinks
from 2 to 3 inches with a hors, is coarse and firm and seems to be
formed of the larger and more dense particles of the snow; the surface
of the snow is reather harder in the morning than after the sun shines
on it a few hours, but it is not in that situation so dense as to
prevent the horse from obtaining good foothold. we killed a small black
pheasant; this bird is generally found in the snowey region of the
mountains and feeds on the leaves of the pine and fir. there is a
speceis of small whortleburry common to the hights of the mountains,
and a speceis of grass with a broad succulent leaf which looks not
unlike a flag; of the latter the horses are very fond, but as yet it is
generally under the snow or mearly making it's appearance as it
confined to the upper parts of the highest mountains.
[Clark, June 28, 1806]
Saturday June 28th 1806
This morning we Colected our horses and Set out as usial after an early
brackfast. we continued our rout along the dividig ridge over knobs &
through deep hollows passed our encampmt of the 14 Sept. last near the
forks of the road leaving the one on which we had Came one leading to
the fishery to our right imediately on the dividing ridge. at 12 oClock
we arived at an untimberd side of a mountain with a southern aspect
just above the fishery here we found an abundance of grass for our
horses as the guids had informed us. as our horses were hungary and
much fatiegued and from information no other place where we could
obtain grass for them within the reach of this evening's travel we
deturmined to remain at this place all night haveing come 13 m. only.
the water was distant from our Encampment we therefore melted Snow and
used the water. the whole of the rout of this day was over deep Snow.
we find the travelling on the Snow not worse than without it, as easy
passage it givs us over rocks and fallen timber fully compensates for
the inconvenience of sliping, certain it is that we travel considerably
faster on the snow than without it. the Snow Sinks from 2 to 3 inches
with a horse, is course and firm and seems to be formed of the larger
particles the surface of the snow sees to be rather harder in the
morning than after the Sun Shines on it a fiew hours, but it is not in
that situation so dense as to prevent the horses from obtaining good
foothold. I killed a Small black pheasant; this bird is generally found
in the Snowey region of the mountains and feeds on the leaves of the
pine & fir. there is a Species of Small huckleberry common to the
hights of the mountains, and a Species of grass with a broad succulent
leaf which looks not unlike a flag; of the latter the horses are very
fond, but as yet it is generally under the Snow, or mearly makeing it's
appearance as it confined to the upper part of the highest mountains.
[Lewis, June 29, 1806]
Sunday June 29th 1806.
We collected our horses early this morning and set out, having
previously dispatched Drewyer and R. Fields to the warm springs to
hunt. we pursued the hights of the ridge on which we have been passing
for several days; it terminated at the distance of 5 ms. from our
encampment and we decended to, and passed the main branch of the
Kooskooske 11/2 ms. above the entrance of Quawmash creek wid falls in
on the N. E. side. when we decended from this ridge we bid adieu to the
snow. near the river we fund a deer which the hunters had killed and
left us. this was a fortunate supply as all our oil was now exhausted
and we were reduced to our roots alone without salt. the Kooskooske at
this place is about 30 yds. wide and runs with great volocity. the bed
as all the mountain streams is composed of smooth stones. beyond the
river we ascended a very steep acclivity of a mountain about 2 Miles
and arrived at it's summit where we found the old road which we had
pased as we went out, coming in on our wright. the road was now much
plainer and more beaten, which we were informed happened from the
circumstance of the Ootslashshoots visiting the fishery frequently from
the vally of Clark's river; tho there was no appearance of there having
been here this spring. at noon we arrived at the quawmas flatts on the
Creek of the same name and halted to graize our horses and dine having
traveled 12 miles. we passed our encampment of the 13th of September at
10 ms. where we halted there is a pretty little plain of about 50 acres
plentifully stocked with quawmash and from apperances this fromes one
of the principal stages or encampments of the indians who pass the
mountains on this road. we found after we had halted that one of our
packhorses with his load and one of my riding horses were left behind.
we dispatched J. Feilds and Colter in surch of the lost horses. after
dinner we continued our march seven miles further to the warm springs
where we arrived early in the evening and sent out several hunters, who
as well as R Fields and Drewyer returned unsuccessful; late in the
evening Colter and J. Fields joined us with the lost horses and brought
with them a deer which they had killed, this furnished us with supper.
these warm springs are situated at the base of a hill of no
considerable hight on the N side and near the bank of travellers rest
creek which at that place is about 10 yards wide. these springs issue
from the bottoms and through the interstices of a grey freestone rock,
the rock rises in iregular masy clifts in a circular range arround the
springs on their lower side. immediately above the springs on the creek
there is a handsome little quamas plain of about 10 acres. the
prinsipal spring is about the temperature of the warmest baths used at
the hot springs in Virginia. In this bath which had been prepared by
the Indians by stoping the run with stone and gravel, I bathed and
remained in 19 minutes, it was with dificulty I could remain thus long
and it caused a profuse sweat two other bold springs adjacent to this
are much warmer, their heat being so great as to make the hand of a
person smart extreemly when immerced. I think the temperature of these
springs about the same as the hotest of the hot springs in Virginia.
both the men and indians amused themselves with the use of a bath this
evening. I observed that the indians after remaining in the hot bath as
long as they could bear it ran and plunged themselves into the creek
the water of which is now as cold as ice can make it; after remaining
here a few minutes they returned again to the warm bath, repeating this
transision several times but always ending with the warm bath. I killed
a small black pheasant near the quamash grounds this evening which is
the first I have seen below the snowy region. I also saw some young
pheasants which were about the size of Chickens of 3 days old. saw the
track of two bearfoot indians who were supposed to be distressed
rufugees who had fled from the Minnetares.
[Clark, June 29, 1806]
Sunday June 29th 1806
We colected our horses and Set out haveing previously dispatched
Drewyer & R. Field to the Warm Springs to hunt. we prosued the hights
of the ridge on which we have been passing for several days; it
termonated at the distance of 5 M. from our encampment, and we decended
to & passed the main branch of Kooskooke 11/2 Ms. above the enterance
of Glade Creek which falls in on the N. E. Side. we bid adew to the
Snow. near the River we found a Deer which the hunters had killed and
left us. this was a fortunate Supply as all our bears oil was now
exhosted, and we were reduced to our roots alone without Salt. the
river is 30 yds wide and runs with great velossity. the bead as all the
Mountain streams is composed of Smooth Stone. beyond this river we
assended a Steep Mountain about 2 Miles to it's Sumit where we found
the old road which we had passed on as we went out. comeing in on our
right, the road was now much plainer and much beaten. at noon we arived
at the quawmash flatts on Vally Creek and halted to graize our horses
and dined haveing traveled 12 Miles here is a pretty little plain of
about 50 acres plentifully Stocked with quawmash and from appearance
this forms one of the principal Stages of the indians who pass the
mountains on this road. we found that one of our pack horss with his
load and one of Capt. L.s. horses were missing we dispatched Jo. Field
& Colter in serch of the lost horse's. after dinner we continued our
march 7 ms further to the worm Springs where we arrived early in the
evening, and Sent out Several hunters, who as well as R. Field &
Drewyer returned unsuksessfull; late in the evening Jo. Field & Colter
joined us with the lost horses and brought with them a Deer which J. F.
had killed, this furnished us with a Supper.
Those Worm or Hot Springs are Situated at the base of a a hill of no
considerable hight, on the N. Side and near the bank of travellers rest
Creek which is at that place about 10 yds wide. these Springs issue
from the bottom and through the interstices of a grey freestone rock,
the rock rises in irregular masy clifts in a circular range, arround
the Springs on their lower Side. imediately above the Springs on the
Creek there is a handsom little quawmash plain of about 10 acres. the
principal Spring is about the temperature of the Warmest baths used at
the Hot Springs in Virginia. in this bath which had been prepared by
the Indians by stopping the river with Stone and mud, I bathed and
remained in 10 minits it was with dificuelty I could remain this long
and it causd a profuse swet. two other bold Springs adjacent to this
are much warmer, their heat being so great as to make the hand of a
person Smart extreemly when immerced. we think the temperature of those
Springs about the Same as that of the hotest of the hot Springs of
Virginia. both the Men and the indians amused themselves with the use
of the bath this evening. I observe after the indians remaining in the
hot bath as long as they could bear it run and plunge themselves into
the Creek the water of which is now as Cold as ice Can make it; after
remaining here a fiew minits they return again to the worm bath
repeeting this transision Several times but always ending with the worm
bath. Saw the tracks of 2 bearfooted indians-.
[Lewis, June 30, 1806]
Monday June 30th 1806.
We dispatched Drewyer and J. Fields early this morning to hunt on the
road and indeavour to obtain some meat for us. just as we had prepared
to set out at an early hour a deer came in to lick at these springs and
one of our hunters killed it; this secured us our dinners, and we
proceeded down the creek sometimes in the bottoms and at other times on
the top or along the steep sides of the ridge to the N. of the Creek.
at one mile from the springs we passed a stout branch of the creek on
the north side and at noon having travelled 13 ms. we arrived at the
entrance of a second Northen branch of the creek where we had nooned it
on the 12 th of Septr. last. here we halted, dined and graized our
horses. while here Sheilds took a small tern and killed a deer. at this
place a road turns off to the wright which the indians informed us
leads to Clarks river some distance below where there is a fine
extensive vally in which the Shalees or Ootslashshoots sometimes
reside. in descending the creek this morning on the steep side of a
high hill my horse sliped with both his hinder feet out of the road and
fell, I also fell off backwards and slid near 40 feet down the hill
before I could stop myself such was the steepness of the declivity; the
horse was near falling on me in the first instance but fortunately
recovers and we both escaped unhirt. I saw a small grey squirrel today
much like those of the Pacific coast only that the belly of this was
white. I also met with the plant in blume which is sometimes called the
lady's slipper or mockerson flower. it is in shape and appearance like
ours only that the corolla is white, marked with small veigns of pale
red longitudinally on the inner side. after dinner we resumed our
march. soon after seting out Sheilds killed another deer and in the
course of the evening we picked up three others which Drewyer had
killed along the road making a total of 6 today. Deer are very abundant
in the neighbourhood of travellers rest of both speceis, also some
bighorns and Elk. a little before sunset we arrived at our old
encampment on the south side of the creek a little above it's entrance
into Clark's river. here we encamped with a view to remain two days in
order to rest ourselves and horses & make our final arrangements for
seperation. we came 19 ms. after dinner the road being much better than
it has been since we entered the mountains we found no appearance of
the Ootslashshoots having been here lately. the indians express much
concern for them and apprehend that the Minnetares of fort de Prarie
have distroyed them in the course of the last winter and spring, and
mention the tracks of the bearfoot Indians which we saw yesterday as an
evidence of their being much distressed.--our horses have stood the
journey supprisingly well, most of them are yet in fine order, and only
want a few days rest to restore them perfectly.-
[Clark, June 30, 1806]
Monday June 30th 1806
We dispatched Drewyer & Jo. Field early this morning ahead to hunt.
just as we had prepard. to set out at an early hour, a deer Came in to
lick at the Springs and one of our hunters killed it; this Secired to
us our dinner. and we proceeded down the Creek, Sometimes in the
bottoms and at other times on the tops or along the Steep Sides of the
ridge to the N of the Creek. at 11/2 m. we passd our encampment of the
12th of Septr. last. we noon'd it at the place we had on the 12 of
Septr. last whiles here Shields killed a deer on the N. fork near the
road. here a rode leads up the N. fork and passed over to an extensive
vally on Clarks river at Some distance down that river as our guids
inform us. after dinner we resumed our march. Soon after Setting out
Shields killed another deer, and we picked up 3 others which G Drewyer
had killed along the road. Deer are very abundant in the neighbourhood
of travellers rest of boath Specis, also Some big horn and Elk. a
little before Sunset we arrived at our old encampment on the S. Side of
the Creek a little above its enterance into Clarks river. here we
Encamped with a view to remain 2 days in order to rest ourselves and
horses and make our final arrangements for Seperation. we found no
signs of the Oatlashshots haveing been here lately. the Indians express
much Concern for them and apprehend that the Menetarries of Fort d Prar
have destroyed them in the course of the last Winter and Spring, and
mention the tracts of the bearfooted indians which we Saw yesterday as
an evidence of their being much distressed-. our horses have stood the
journey Supirisinly well and only want a fiew days rest to restore them.
[Clark, June 30, 1806]
Descended the mountain to Travellers rest leaveing those tremendious
mountanes behind us-in passing of which we have experiensed Cold and
hunger of which I shall ever remember. in passing over this part of the
Rocky mountains from Clarks river, to the quawmash flats from the 14th
to the 19th of Septr. 1805 we marched through Snow, which fell on us on
the night of the 14th and nearly all the day of the 15 in addition to
the cold rendered the air cool and the way difficuelt. our food was
horses of which we eate three.--On our return we Set out from the
quawmash flats on the 15th of June and commenes the assent of the rocky
mountains; the air became cool and vigitation backward--on the 16th we
met with banks of Snow and in the hollars and maney of the hill Sides
the Snow was from 3 to 4 feet deep and Scercely any grass vegitation
just commencing where the Snow had melted--on the 17th at meridian, the
Snow became So deep in every derection from 6 to 8 feet deep we could
not prosue the road there being no grass for our horses we were obliged
to return to the quawmash flatts to precure meat to live on as well as
grass for our horses--leaveing our baggage on the mountains We precured
5 Indians as pilots and on the 24th of June 1806 we again under took
those Snowey regn. on the 26th we with our baggage arived at an open
plain serounded with Snow where there was grass for horses on the 27th
& 28th also passing over Snow 6 or 8 feet deep all the way on 29th
passed over but little Snow--but saw great masses of it lying in
different directions
Part III: Journal Entries of June 1806
- Details
- Written by: Meriwether Lewis and and William Clark
- Category: The Journals of Lewis and Clark 1804-1806